Northern Territory Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/northern-territory/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Northern Territory Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/northern-territory/ 32 32 My Top 7 Things to Do – Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/#comments Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=71 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]

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Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how!

A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.

135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.

Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!

1 Sunrise at Ghost Gum Lookout:

Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge

‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.

Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?

No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!

I’d just experienced it in a different spot.

Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge.  They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.

Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.

Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …

Dingo at Sunrise
Dingo at Sunrise

As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area.  Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.

Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.

Hunting for fish.

No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!

We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.

But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.

Na na nana nah!

2 Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk

Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia

This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights.  Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail.  That’s just part of the fun.

But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!

If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!

3 Larapinta LITE:

The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.

But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road.  It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.

Just can't have too much spinifex ... Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge
Just can’t have too much spinifex … Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge

We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track.  Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.

BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!

Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!

4 Glen Helen Gorge:

Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia

The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!

Glen Helen Resort Piano
Glen Helen Resort Piano

But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.

Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.

And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!

5 Mt Sonder Lookout:

Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia
Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia

Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!

Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout
Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout

And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!

There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it.  But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.

It’s a fine view in its own right.  And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.

6 Ormiston Gorge Campground:

Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia

The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.

So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.

Well, almost!

I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??

Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.

‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.

But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.

The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.

Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?

With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.

Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.

Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?

And if so, what does that make US?

7 Ghost Gum Loop at Sunset:

Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall.  The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.

Ghost Gum Lookout - and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Lookout – and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.

But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset

Read More about Central Australia:

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10 Cool Places to take the Kids in Alice Springs https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/02/10-cool-places-to-take-the-kids-in-alice-springs/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/02/10-cool-places-to-take-the-kids-in-alice-springs/#comments Wed, 17 Feb 2016 10:03:02 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4555 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Take the family to Central Australia and discover the TOP TEN kid-friendly things to do in Alice Springs!  In this guest post, Dominic Vivarini of Earth Sanctuary is your guide on this virtual If you are on a holiday with the kids in Australia, then Alice Springs is a great place to enjoy your family vacation. Alice Springs offers many activities and places[...]

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Aussie Flag at Anzac Hill, Alice Springs, Northern Territory
Aussie Flag at Anzac Hill, Alice Springs, Northern Territory

Take the family to Central Australia and discover the TOP TEN kid-friendly things to do in Alice Springs!  In this guest post, Dominic Vivarini of Earth Sanctuary is your guide on this virtual

If you are on a holiday with the kids in Australia, then Alice Springs is a great place to enjoy your family vacation. Alice Springs offers many activities and places for kids so that they are never bored. Here are the Top 10 things to do in Alice Springs your kids will love.

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

Uluru (also known as Ayers Rock) is the largest monolith in the world located in the Red Centre desert about 450 km south-west of Alice Springs. It’s a sacred place for Aborigines and older kids can either climb to the top or go for a guided walk with an Aboriginal guide. The whole family can also enjoy the light show at sunset when the colour of the sky turns from crimson to gold. Many tour operators offer tours of Uluru and children under 16 are admitted free.

Uluru, Central Australia
Uluru, Central Australia (photo courtesy pixabay.com)

Alice Springs Desert Park

Alice Springs Desert Park is a ‘must see’ for everyone visiting Alice Springs. By visiting the Desert Park kids get to know many secrets of the Central Australia. The park is divided into 3 separate habitats – Desert Rivers, Sand Country and Woodland – each offering unique plants and wildlife to its visitors. Children will especially enjoy the Desert River habitat where they can get to walk among a herd of kangaroos. It only takes about 10 minutes to reach the Desert Park from the centre of Alice Springs and for children the admission charge is $12.50.

Alice Springs Desert Park, Things to do in Alice Springs
Alice Springs Desert Park (Attribution: Alexandra at lb.wikipedia)

Alice Springs Reptile Centre

Thorny Devil
Thorny Devil (Photo courtesy pixabay.com)

For kids who are brave enough, the Alice Springs Reptile Centre is a fun place to visit. The Reptile Centre is home to over 100 types of reptiles and each of them is displayed in the man-made creations of their natural habitat. In the park, visitors can see and handle pythons as well as feed lizards. However, the biggest attraction is Terry the saltwater crocodile!  The centre is open every day from 9:30am to 5pm.

The Kangaroo Sanctuary

If you want your kids to find out about kangaroos then a visit to the Kangaroo Sanctuary will be an eye-opener for everyone. It’s a baby kangaroo rescue centre established in 2005 by Chris Brolga Barnes, the star of the Kangaroo Dundee Series. The sanctuary offers guided

sunset tours for children and adults where you get to visit the 90 acre wildlife reserve and get to know everything about kangaroos.

Alice Springs School of the Air Visitor Centre

The Alice Springs School of the Air Visitor Centre, dubbed “The World’s Largest Classroom”, is an innovative education centre providing education to the children residing in the remote areas of Central Australia. The school takes classes with the help of radios and internet through which they are able to cover a vast area in Alice Springs. The visitor centre offers guided tours for tourists specialising in the history of this unique and innovative school.

Larapinta Trail

The Larapinta Trail is one of the newest and most exciting trails in Australia – and the world. It’s one the best places for hiking and trekking in Australia and many tour operators offer trail packages and adventure tours suitable for adults and kids alike.

Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, West MacDonnell Ranges (things to do in Alice Springs)
Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, part of the Larapinta Trail, West MacDonnell Ranges

The 223 kilometre trail is located at the back of the West MacDonnell Ranges and is segmented into 12 parts, where you can find around 600 species of rare plants. You can camp at night under the stars and most camp sites have picnic tables and tent sites along with free gas barbecues and a water supply.  Shorter walks are possible too!

Araluen Cultural Precinct

If you and your family want the total cultural experience of Central Australia then a visit to Araluen Cultural Precinct will be worth your while. The precinct is a combination of various museums and theatre. Among the museums, the Museum of Central Australia is the most famous among kids and gives visitors an insight into the various birds and animals found in the deserts of Alice Springs. Most notably, the museum offers an exhibition about the 120 million year history of crocodiles in Australia.

Frontier Camel Farm

Camel
Camel (photo courtesy pixabay.com)

Frontier Camel Farm is the perfect place for everything camel. Located in the south east of Alice Spring, the farm is a famous family tourist attraction. It offers camel rides, safaris and a museum of cameleering equipment, memorabilia and historical photographs. For a truly family experience, book a camel safari which offers a tour of the Date Gardens that includes breakfast and dinner.

Arltunga Historical Reserve

Arltunga, the first town of Central Australia to be born out of the alluvial gold rush is located about 110 km east of Alice Springs. The reserve also has a museum which gives you an insight on the mining industry of the old days. Shade shelters and barbecue facilities are also available along with public toilets which makes it a great place for family picnics.

Earth Sanctuary World Nature Centre

Earth Sanctuary Spirit of the Outback Show
Earth Sanctuary Spirit of the Outback Show (photo courtesy Earth Sanctuary)

Situated in the beautiful Australian desert, just 15 minutes south of Alice Springs, Earth Sanctuary is an innovative eco-tourism destination. Earth Sanctuary offers award winning day and night tours of the outback for children and adults alike. The Earth’s Cool Tour is a tour especially designed for kids focusing on sustainability of earth’s resources. For a complete outback experience Earth Sanctuary also offers a “Spirit of the Outback” tour. It includes a guided tour of the sanctuary and a presentation on traditional Australian culture and astronomy followed by a 3 course gourmet dinner.

 

Thank you, Dominic and Earth Sanctuary! With all these things to do in Alice Springs, there’s NO excuse not to take the kids to Central Australia!

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5 Reasons why Timber Creek is a TOP Aussie Town! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/5-reasons-why-timber-creek-is-a-top-aussie-town/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/5-reasons-why-timber-creek-is-a-top-aussie-town/#comments Wed, 25 Nov 2015 10:05:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4361 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either. I checked my[...]

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Sunset over the Victoria River from the Escarpment Lookout, Timber Creek
Sunset over the Victoria River from the Escarpment Lookout, Timber Creek

Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either.

I checked my watch. Only 10:30 am and we were done with the driving for the day.

Damn! How did I turn into a Grey Nomad* without noticing?!

Victoria River Sunset, via Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Victoria River Sunset, via Timber Creek, Northern Territory

The Victoria River – Australia’s WILDEST – is over 200 km (~120 miles) of sensational scenery, rugged ranges and wall to wall crocodiles. And as well as spectacular natural attractions, the region has an intriguing blend of Indigenous, Colonial and Military history. We’d seen part of the area the day before at the Victoria River Roadhouse.

So the bonus of arriving so early meant loads of time to explore the rest.

Just as well, because there’s a helluva lot to see!

1 The Crocodiles

Pilchard and I saw more crocodiles in two days than in all our previous crocodile sightings combined. And when I add all the crocs we’ve seen since then? This town’s still WAY out in front.

Would you trust this face?  Huge Saltwater crocodile at Victoria River via Timber Creek, NT
Would you trust this face?  Huge Saltwater crocodile at Victoria River via Timber Creek, NT

Crocodiles don’t actually go to heaven – they just head north to Timber Creek!

Because if you’re a crocodile, what’s NOT to love about Timber Creek?

If you’re a freshie**, hang out in the creek behind the caravan park and get fed by a gaggle of tourists EVERY NIGHT!

Feeding the freshies at Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Feeding the freshies at Timber Creek, Northern Territory

And if you’re a saltie*** the Victoria River is a croc-heaven takeaway with cattle from the stations, wallabies and other wildlife feeding along the banks, and boatloads of barramundi fisherfolk who make catching a big one for dinner REALLY easy!

PLEASE NOTE: Practice crocodile safety on and near waterways. All my crocodile photos were taken from a croc-proof boat and pontoon on the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise!

2 Cruising Australia’s Wildest River

There’s something about eating a sensational array of snacks and enjoying a drink while watching a superb sunset sink into a crocodile-infested river. Something that makes you want to – well, YOU know!

So where DO you go when nature calls and you’re surrounded by crocodiles on Australia’s wildest river? To one of Australia’s most scenic and unusual toilets, of course!

Victoria River Cruises Pontoon AND Scenic Loo! Via Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Victoria River Cruises Pontoon AND Scenic Loo! Via Timber Creek, Northern Territory

Yes, it’s in MY BOOK (click right HERE to got there)!

The pontoon potty is just one (VERY good) reason to take the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise. It’s a 3 hour 70 kilometre journey into the heart of the Top End with local guide Neville Fogarty in his purpose built croc proof boat – the Fleetwing – to a pontoon perfectly positioned to showcase the sights.

Croc-spotting, Victoria River Cruise, via Timber Creek, NT
Croc-spotting, Victoria River Cruise, via Timber Creek, NT

And see as many crocodiles as you’re likely to see anywhere outside a crocodile farm!

(BONUS EXTRA: Read about Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River HERE)

3 History and Heritage

The Crocodile cruise isn’t just about the crocs. Before we get anywhere near the river, we’ve had a mini-town tour, fascinating history lesson, and a pit stop at the local museum. But the croc cruise gets back after sunset, so we stay another day to see what we’ve missed.

Memorabilia from the Police Station Museum
Clockwise from top right: Fingerprint instructions; Furphy; Holding Cell; Kangaroo skin bed – all from the Police Station Museum

I didn’t know anything about how to take fingerprints correctly until I entered the heritage listed Police Station Museum, also home to other quirky memorabilia like a Furphy; and a kangaroo hide bed where Neville Fogarty (croc tour man) apparently once slept!

But reminders of more shameful past episodes are in the shackle and chain for Aboriginal prisoners still attached to a tree, and the holding cell in the front yard.

Poem from the Nackeroo Memorial, Timber Creek
Poem from the Nackeroo Memorial, Timber Creek

And who knew about the Nackeroos, ‘Bush Commandos’ with a platoon stationed at Timber Creek after the Top End was bombed by the Japanese during World War Two? I certainly didn’t, but the escarpment memorial tells of the hardships faced in defending Australia’s coastline in this wild and remote area, and the great respect for the skills of the local Aboriginal people working with and as part of the Nackeroos.

But the Nackeroos weren’t the last of the military activity in the area …

4 The Bridge to Nowhere

If you’ve seen the super-highway-like Bridge to Nowhere spanning the Victoria River you’re probably questioning my judgement about recommending it as a Timber Creek attraction.

The Bridge to Nowhere, Victoria River, Timber Creek
The Bridge to Nowhere, Victoria River, Timber Creek

Especially if I say the bridge was a highlight of our visit!

The bridge doesn’t REALLY go to nowhere – it just goes to nowhere the average person is allowed to go ie the Bradshaw Field Training Area. If in any doubt about entering, there’s a few handy hints that’ll make your unwelcomeness perfectly clear.

Like the massive gate with padlocks and spikes.

And the four separate signs with different messages that make even a croc seem friendly.

Signs from the Bridge to Nowhere, Timber Creek
Signs from the Bridge to Nowhere, Timber Creek

Cool, huh?!

But quite apart from anything else, the bridge – across which you’re quite welcome to walk – is one of the best places from which to appreciate the grandeur of the Victoria River!

5 Judbarra/Gregory National Park

Gregory Tree, via Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Gregory Tree, via Timber Creek, Northern Territory

When I first saw the Gregory Tree, it was overlooking a crocodile from high on the banks of the Victoria River.

I was checking out the same crocodile from just above the waterline on the croc-proof cruiser. I’m not sure who had the best view, but there were no crocs in sight when I saw the tree up close the next day.

It’s just part of the 13000² km Gregory National Park, named for explorer Augustus Charles Gregory, whose expedition passed through in the mid 1800’s. And although graffitti artist Gregory left the travel dates inscribed on the tree, it’s considered ‘historic’, rather than vandalism! There’s nothing to say how the local Ngaringman Aboriginal people felt about Gregory defacing the tree – it’s also registered as a sacred site.

We explored the eastern section of the park the day before from the Victoria River Roadhouse, 90 km east. Don’t miss the fantastic Joe Creek walk through Livistona Palms, and the amazing view from the Escarpment Lookout.

Livistona Palms and Red Cliffs at Joe Creek Walk, Victoria River Valley, Northern Territory
Livistona Palms and Red Cliffs at Joe Creek Walk, Victoria River Valley, Northern Territory

The western section extends quite a long way south of Timber Creek, with 4WD tracks to the old station homestead, gorges campgrounds and fishing spots. The tracks even join up with the Buntine Highway, an alternative route into Western Australia – which isn’t that far away from Timber Creek!

Tragically, the only part of the western section I saw was the Gregory Tree – but that’s what ‘next time’ is for, right?

(BONUS Extra: Read about the Joe Creek Walk and Escarpment Lookout HERE!)

Gregory National Park Road, via Timber Creek
Gregory National Park Road, via Timber Creek

Timber Creek may be small but has a LOT of attractions that make it a TOP Aussie Town!. So if you’re thinking of giving it a miss, think again and get there early – because sometimes acting like a grey nomad pays off!

5 things to do in Timber Creek on an overnight stay:

  • Crocodile Cruise on the Victoria River
  • Drive to Policemans Point Lookout
  • Walk the Heritage Trail
  • Watch the Sunset from the Escarpment Lookout
  • Feed the Crocodiles at the Circle F Caravan Park
Policemans Point Lookout over the Victoria River, Timber Creek
Policemans Point Lookout over the Victoria River, Timber Creek

5 more things to do in Timber Creek:

  • Tour the Historic Police Station Museum
  • Cross the Victoria River on the Bridge to Nowhere
  • Drive out to the Gregory Tree
  • See Limestone Gorge in Gregory National Park’s western section
  • Walk Joe Creek and the Escarpment Lookout trails near Victoria River Roadhouse in Gregory National Park’s eastern section

Timber Creek Fast Facts!

Timber Creek from the Escarpment Lookout, Northern Territory
Timber Creek from the Escarpment Lookout, Northern Territory

Where: Timber Creek is ~285 km west of Katherine; 90 km west of the Victoria River Roadhouse; 225 km east of Kununurra on the Victoria Highway.

When to Go: Temperatures are lower with less humidity during the Dry season from June to November. 4WD tracks and other attractions are closed during the Wet Season when rains commence around December and re-open around May depending on the amount of rain.

Where to Stay: We stayed at the Circle F Caravan Park attached to Fogarty’s Store and the Timber Creek Hotel, also with cabins and motel accomodation. The Big Horse campground is near the boat ramp. Gregory National Park has several campgrounds.

What’s There: Timber Creek facilities include accommodation, fuel, food, banking, vehicle repairs, emergency medical services and an airstrip.

*In our experience of travelling with the Southern Grey Nomad, we’ve observed that they’re often at their destination by lunch time. The rest of the day is spent setting up and preparing for happy hour! That’s not a criticism – it’s just the way it is – but such a short travel time meant that maybe, just MAYBE we were becoming more like them :-O

Crocs in Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Crocs in Timber Creek, Northern Territory

** Freshies = Freshwater crocodiles, the smaller, less aggressive Crocodylus johnstoni

*** Salties = Saltwater crocodiles (aka estuarine crocodiles), the much larger, VERY much more aggressive Crocodylus porosus

White Crocodile, Victoria River, Northern Territory
White Crocodile, Victoria River, Northern Territory

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U is for Uluru: 11 Photos; 9 Bloggers; One Awesome Rock! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/#comments Fri, 02 Oct 2015 10:19:07 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4140 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Uluru. When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC. What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With[...]

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Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Uluru.

When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC.

What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With a 10 km (6 mile) hike around the base if you choose not to take the steep 1.6 km summit track?? And the slowly oxidising surface iron giving it that distinctive red colour, an instant worldwide recognition factor and over 400,000 visitors each year???

Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)
Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)

But Uluru is WAY more than just statistics. An Uluru experience can be awe-inspiring, surprising, fantastical, adventurous, mind-blowing, healing and deeply moving.

Nothing says Australia quite like Uluru.

And nothing says Uluru quite like the nine different first impressions of the Rock shared by nine (8 + me!) travel bloggers!

1 Linda – Journey Jottings

Since I discovered Linda’s fabulous Journey Jottings products back in my early blogging days, they’ve accompanied me to a LOT of Aussie Hot Spots! But not Uluru – yet, anyway!

Linda says: ‘Everyone has seen a gazillion photos of Uluru, but its magical presence simply can’t be conveyed in 2D. And It holds surprises – Hidden delights you can only discover when getting up close and personal.’

Did you know, there are waterholes at Uluru?’

2 Neil – Bushwalking Blog

By Neil’s Bushwalking Blog standards, a tactful person would describe MY bushwalking skills as ‘average’! Perhaps I can get some hiking credibility like Neil’s on one of the Aussie Hiking Tours on his new website!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)

But it’s not all about the walks. Neil’s first impression of Uluru didn’t actualy involve hiking …

Neil says: ‘I was in a pretty bad place when I visited Uluru. I’ll never forget how depressed and hollow I felt as I drove out the Lasseter Highway, and then how its energy completely overcame me as I approached, and I burst into tears and had to pull over. My healing began right there on the side of the road, staring at that incredible rock.’

3 Jo – Zigazag

Jo’s fabulous travel and lifestyle blog Zigazag is a go-to for anyone who wants to discover Western Australia’s hidden secrets AND tales of travel from around the world! But Jo’s WA roots didn’t stop her from visiting Uluru – where you can see what the well-dressed mountaineer was wearing back then!!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag and Lifestyle Fifty)

Jo says: ‘I visited Ayers Rock in 1983 when I was working in Alice Springs. I can remember driving for what seemed like hours along a corrugated red road that made my fillings jangle, and arriving finally at a small hotel, or was it a roadhouse then, I can’t remember where I was told I could pitch my tent. Problem was I’d forgotten the tent pegs so I had to borrow some string to hitch it between two bushes.

Ayers Rock was such a quiet place back then and for me it had an ethereal quality about it and really did change colour at different times of the day. We were encouraged to climb ‘the rock’ when I visited although now I believe it’s actively discouraged. I can remember standing on the summit at a quiet spot on my own, hair billowing in the breeze, wearing a wrap around skirt and a green sweatshirt and feeling at one with the world in that vast horizon in a spiritual place.’

4 Annie – Go Camping

Full of advice about the Aussie camping scene along with gadgets, recipes and bizarre camping must-haves, Annie’s blog Go Camping is the place to be when you’re planning a road-trip or camping holiday.

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)

Annie says: ‘My first impression of Uluru was that of stunned amazement – I had seen so many photos of it over the years, but nothing prepared me for its size and beauty. It really is awe inspiring when you are up close to it, and walking around the base, seeing all these different aspects of it.

Must do for every Aussie!’

5 Andy – Travelling Type

After getting my regular fix of out-of-the-way Australia from Andy’s blog Travelling Type, he inconsiderately moved overseas to live and work and the Aussie posts thinned out. SO … as revenge, I’m hoping this post makes him homesick as hell!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)

Andy says: ‘When I first sighted Uluru, it was apparent to me how vast the landscape was surrounding it. However, it wasn’t until I got up close to this whopping rock that it really impressed me, far more than I thought it would, as there are many folds, caves and ridges that lay within.’

6 Mandy – Travelling Australia With Kids

I’ve never travelled Australia with kids and probably never will. But I certainly agree with the concept behind Mandy’s great blog Travelling Australia With Kids – especially if it makes those kids grow up to appreciate the awesome natural attractions in OZ. Like Uluru!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)

Mandy says: ‘Something somewhere inside stirred and I felt like it was connecting with my soul! All sounds a bit spiritual, but seriously I was moved on a level I had not experienced before. I just wanted to look at it and experience it and absorb it. Hence 163 photos!

I could go on and on! We stayed at the nearby caravan park and I would wonder where my hubby was and he would be up at the lookout and vice versa. Every moment we could we would be just staring at it, transfixed almost, it actually became a bit odd as if it was drawing us in. But we just could not stop.’

7 Amanda – Adventures All Around

We’re both Aussie travellers, bloggers and red-heads, so that makes Amanda and I virtually twins, right? Apart from a few trifling details like her radio show, overseas travel and a few years in age! Amanda’s first time at Uluru was a very different experience as she writes on her blog Adventures All Around!

Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)
Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)

Amanda says: ‘I’d seen all the pictures and heard all the stories, but still nothing prepared me for what it feels like to be in the shadow of Uluru. To look up at that huge rock and see the caves and crevices and the colours.

Pictures don’t do it justice and my words won’t either. It’s something that needs to be experienced and that I hope to experience again.’

8 Michela – Rocky Travel

Michela’s travels in Australia, documented on her blog Rocky Travel, put many Aussies to shame. Her Top Tips for planning a road trip to Uluru are great advice – and she’s the only blogger to date that I’ve met face to face!

Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)
Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)

Michela says: ‘I vividly remember the feeling I had while approaching Uluru by car the first time. From the distance the Uluru growing bigger and bigger into its mighty shape. It was a strange feeling, a mix of awe, bewilderment, excitement, and a deep peacefulness. Right now by looking back at that moment I get shivers.’

9 Red Nomad OZ – RedzAustralia

Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia
Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia

On the 100 km trek along the road to Uluru from Curtin Springs, where we’d staged a two-person protest against the high cost of accommodation closer to the Rock, I was distracted by wildflowers lining the road – the result of a wetter than average year.

But then I looked up out the car window and there it was dominating the landscape and pulling us towards it like a magnet – maybe there’s something in the ley lines theory after all! I just HAD to get closer – but when I saw the WAY steep and exposed track to the top, I just knew I wouldn’t be climbing it.

So big it made the huge rocky domes of nearby Kata Tjuta look like marbles, Uluru’s ever-changing colours are endlessly fascinating. And the rocky pools, waterfall spots and wave-like formations made the base walk a wonderful experience.

Wanting a part of the rock made me almost see the point of those kitschy Uluru snow dome souvenirs too.  So I bought one – and it looked a bit like THIS!

Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia
Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia

With those 6.5 million results from the ‘Uluru’ Google search, I have no fear that this’ll become the definitive ‘go to’ post for travellers seeking information and inspiration about Australia’s iconic rock.

But travellers unedited first impressions never lie – so if you’ve been thinking about visiting or re-visiting Australia’s BIGGEST Rock Star, then DO IT NOW!

Have YOU been to Uluru? What was YOUR first impression of Australia’s TOP Rock Star?!

Want MORE?

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7 Days from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/#comments Mon, 29 Jun 2015 10:15:27 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3785 NEW from RedzAustralia!

How to get from Darwin to Broome! Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave. But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning[...]

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Port of Broome, Western Australia
Port of Broome, Western Australia

How to get from Darwin to Broome!

Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave.

But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning the way you came is to take a road trip. Hire a car if you didn’t drive, and drive across the Top End through the Kimberley from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway!

But be warned! Even though the Darwin to Broome road trip CAN be done in a week, you must carefully pick and choose the sights you want to see or you’ll run out of time. That’s why my 7 day road trip itinerary has optional extras so you can add extra time and extra attractions!

So choose what you’d REALLY like to do from the itinerary and enjoy!

Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway
Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway

Day 1: Darwin to Victoria River Roadhouse

Distance: 510 km

Driving Time: 6-7 hours. Leave as early as possible – there’s a lot to see and do when you reach the Victoria River Roadhouse!

Route & Scenery: Head south from Darwin along the Stuart Highway, passing through tropical bushland and savannah and over low rocky ranges. At Katherine, leave the tropics behind and enter the RED Outback, heading south-west along the Victoria Highway. Near the Roadhouse, the road passes through Judburra/Gregory National Park and Stokes Range.

Points of Interest:

Victoria River Roadhouse
Victoria River Roadhouse, Northern Territory
  • This itinerary assumes you travelled to Darwin via Katherine and have already seen those attractions. For attractions between Darwin and Katherine, see Days 6 and 7 of my Adelaide to Darwin road trip itinerary.
  • Outback scenery and pastoral properties, low ranges and Buntine Highway (alternative route to Halls Creek) turn off
  • From the Victoria River Roadhouse, climb up to the Escarpment Lookout, hike the 1.7 km Joe Creek Loop Walk. Take a look at Australia’s WILDEST river (watch for crocodiles!), watch spectacular sunsets over the Victoria River Escarpment and have a meal at the roadhouse.

Options:

  • Take an extra day to explore attractions en route to Katherine. Stay overnight in Katherine on Day 1 and travel to Victoria River Roadhouse on Day 2.
  • Alternatively, stay at Katherine, then combine Days 2 and 3, seeing the Victoria River Roadhouse sights en route to Timber Creek

Read MORE: Things to do at Victoria River Roadhouse

Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at Sunset
Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at the Lookout at Sunset

Day 2: Victoria River Roadhouse to Timber Creek

Distance: 91 km (yes, you read that right!)

Driving Time: 1 hour (yes, you read that right!)

Route & Scenery: Head west from Victoria River Roadhouse, climb the Victoria River Escarpment and pass through the Stokes Range. Spectacular outback scenery complete with Boab trees all the way!

Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River
Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River

Points of Interest:

  • Today’s short trip means there’s time to see any attractions around Victoria River you didn’t have time for yesterday.
  • In Timber Creek, book a sunset Victoria River Cruise to see more of Timber Creek, discover Australia’s wildest river, see more crocodiles than you’ve probably ever seen before. AND enjoy drinks and snacks while watching the sunset.

Options:

  • Save Timber Creek for another visit and continue to Keep River National Park campground (150 km), Lake Argyle (190 km) or Kununurra (225 km)
  • Stay an extra night and explore Timber Creek. There’s the historic museum, Escarpment Lookout, crocodile feeding in the creek behind the caravan parks and more of Gregory National Park.

Read MORE: Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s Wildest River

SEE MORE:  Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia
Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia

Day 3: Timber Creek to Kununurra

Distance: 225 km

Driving Time: 3 hours (including extra for a WA/NT Border vehicle check – don’t carry fruit, vegetables, plants or flowers). Gain bonus extra time at the border by turning clocks back to WA time!

Route & Scenery: Drive west along the Victoria Highway passing through spectacular ranges and land formations. After the border checkpoint, approx 150 km from Timber Creek, continue to Kununurra.

Points of Interest:

Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
  • Keep River National Park, sometimes referred to as the Mini Bungle-Bungles, is just 3 km from the WA border.
  • Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, is 34 km off the highway just across the border.

Options:

  • Stay overnight at the Keep River National Park campground for amazing scenery and the 7 km Jarnem Loop Trail
  • Stay an extra night at Lake Argyle for a sunset or morning cruise and a dip in the infinity pool
  • Extend your stay in Kununurra and use it as a base to explore the region thoroughly (including Lake Argyle and Keep River National Park)
  • Stay an extra night at Wyndham to see the amazing Five Rivers Lookout at sunset, and a number of other attractions

Read MORE:

SEE MORE:  Kununurra Photos on Flickr

Caroline Pool via Halls Creek
Caroline Pool via Halls Creek

Day 4: Kununurra to Halls Creek

Distance: 360 km

Driving Time: 4 ½ – 5 hours

Route & Scenery: 46 km west of Kununurra, turn east onto the Great Northern Highway. Spectacular scenery with multi-coloured rock formations through the Carr-Boyd and O’Connell Ranges. Outback scenery with red rock and spinifex closer to Halls Creek.

Points of Interest:

China Wall, via Halls Creek
China Wall, via Halls Creek
  • Doon Doon Roadhouse
  • Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse, Indigenous Arts Centre and Bungle-Bungle Scenic Flights
  • Punululu National Park (Bungle-Bungles)
  • At Halls Creek, visit the China Wall quartz formation, Caroline Pool and Old Halls Creek.

Options:

  • Stay an extra night at Warmun or one of the Bungle-Bungles campgrounds and explore Purnululu National Park
  • Stay an extra night at Halls Creek and visit Wolfe Creek Crater National Park (260 km round trip) on the Tanami Road
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley Region, Western Australia

Day 5: Halls Creek to Fitzroy Crossing

Distance: 290 km

Driving Time: 3 ½ – 4 hours

Route & Scenery: Travel south-west from Halls Creek passing through oddly shaped rocky mountains, cliffs and canyons then lightly wooded pastoral country.

Points of Interest:

Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
  • When in flood, the Fitzroy River has the largest water volume of any river in Australia.  In the world only the Amazon is larger!  Take a look – even if it’s NOT in flood!
  • Take a cruise through Geikie Gorge, a Devonian reef system about 20 km from Fitzroy Crossing.

Options:

  • Stay an extra day and explore Geikie Gorge via several walks, or take a tour to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge.

Read MORE: The Incredible ‘Icebergs’ of Geikie Gorge

Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia

Day 6: Fitzroy Crossing to Derby

Distance: 260 km

Driving Time: 3 – 3 ½ hours

Route & Scenery: Head west along the Great Northern Highway and head north at the junction with the Broome-Derby road. It’s then only 40 km to Derby on King Sound.

Points of Interest:

Low Tide at Derby Jetty
Low Tide at Derby Jetty
  • Watch the ebb and flow of the highest tides in Australia from the Derby Jetty. It’s 12 metres above the low tide line.
  • Other Derby attractions include the Jandamarra Heritage Trail, old prison, Boab Prison Tree, Frosty’s Pool, the Long Trough and the Joonjoo Botanic Walk.

Options:

Stay an extra night in Derby and experience the Gibb River Road on the Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour.  Alternatively, visit the Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Waterfall

Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome
Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome

Read MORE: The Highest Tide in OZ!

Day 7: Derby to Broome

Distance: 220 km

Driving Time: 2 ½ -3 hours

Route & Scenery: Follow the Great Northern Highway south-west to Broome.

Points of Interest:

Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
  • Willare Bridge Roadhouse
  • Roebuck Plains Roadhouse

Read MORE about Broome’s attractions:

SEE MORE:  Broome Photos on Flickr

Broome’s many attractions probably mean you’ll want to stay for a LOT longer than just one night! And why not? You deserve a break after an epic road trip like this!

And anyway, you may as well kick back and enjoy yourself while you work out where to go next!

Want even MORE?

PS  For the record, it took me 28 nights to do the Darwin to Broome Road Trip.  I spent 15 more nights exploring Broome and surrounds!

And I STILL didn’t see everything!

So yes, it CAN be done in 7 days – but if you’ve got the time, you’ll see a LOT more!

Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory
Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory

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10 TOP Things to Do in Darwin, Top End https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/05/top-10-things-to-do-in-darwin/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/05/top-10-things-to-do-in-darwin/#comments Sun, 17 May 2015 12:11:11 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3618 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For an isolated city, rebuilt twice after being bombed (WWII) destroyed by a tropical cyclone (1974); regularly washed by massive 7 metre tides and monsoonal floods; and hosting a high proportion of dangerous and deadly wildlife; Darwin’s looking mighty fine these days. At least to a fair-weather traveller like me – my visit was during the more activity-friendly dry season,[...]

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For an isolated city, rebuilt twice after being bombed (WWII) destroyed by a tropical cyclone (1974); regularly washed by massive 7 metre tides and monsoonal floods; and hosting a high proportion of dangerous and deadly wildlife; Darwin’s looking mighty fine these days.

Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory
Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory*

At least to a fair-weather traveller like me – my visit was during the more activity-friendly dry season, when the average daily maximum temperature is only around 30º C! But there’s no shame in taking the easy way out, is there?

Whether you’ve road-tripped from Adelaide to Darwin, taken the train, or flown in, you’ll be ready for some tropical Darwin R&R! Here’s a teaser of 10 TOP things to do in Darwin – just to get you started!

Fogg Dam, via Darwin, Northern Territory
Fogg Dam, via Darwin, Northern Territory*

1 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve

OK, Ok, ok. So you DON’T see the attraction of a crocodile, snake and mosquito-infested swamp? How about if I call it a wetland, teeming with wildlife?

Black-necked Stork, Fogg Dam
Black-necked Stork, Fogg Dam*

Fogg Dam was so intriguing we visited twice. Once during the day for a walk across the dam wall, watching thousands of birds feed among the waterlilies. Climbing up into the vantage point on the dam’s far side gave an even better perspective – and the chance to cool down before returning across the wall.

And then we did the night walk. That’s when the crocs, snakes and mosquitoes made their appearance!

MORE about Fogg Dam

2 Territory Wildlife Park

I’ll always remember the Territory Wildlife Park, around 60 km south of Darwin, as the place where I caught my first barra. Barramundi, that is, and the prize craved by all true Aussie Fishermen. And women.

Red Nomad OZ with Barramundi
Red, the Barramundi Queen! Territory Wildlife Park*

But if you think something’s wrong with this picture, you’re right … and you can get one just like it in exactly the same spot!

For a great day out and a chance to see the REAL creatures of the Territory in their natural (albeit well-constructed) habitats – like the Billabong, Nocturnal House and Aviaries – study the park’s schedule of activities – wild birds, croc feeding and the like – carefully. Then check the park’s bus timetables to get from venue to venue because this park is HUGE!

MORE about the Territory Wildlife Park

3 Australian Aviation Heritage Centre

I didn’t think I’d spend more than half an hour or so at the Aviation Museum – we were really only going in memory of Pilchard’s late father who’d been there a few years before and sung its praises. But 5 hours – and many intriguing facts – later, I was still going strong.

B52, Australian Aviation Heritage Centre, Darwin
Is that a B52, or are you just glad to see me? Australian Aviation Heritage Centre, Darwin

This is Australian aviation history at its best with a matching array of 19 aircraft (including one of only two B52 Bombers outside of the US); regular screenings of aviation videos; displays of historic aviation memorabilia; and information stations – I’d heard of Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson, but who’d ever heard of Jessie Maude ‘Chubbie’ Miller? Not me!  Now THERE’S a story waiting to be told …

I went in to the musuem not caring one way or another about planes. But I came out a newly-minted aviation nerd (well … almost!).

MORE about the Darwin Aviation Museum

4 Howard Springs and Berry Springs Nature Parks

The quest for shade and a place to go swimming is hardly surprising in a city that’s hot all year round. But factoring in the Top End’s natural swimming hazards – ie nasties like Crocodiles – shrinks the number of safe swimming spots considerably.

Berry Springs, via Darwin, Northern Territory
Red afloat at Berry Springs, via Darwin, Northern Territory*

That’s why the shallow rock pools of Howard Springs Nature Park, 35 km south of the City; and the deeper pools of the Berry Springs Nature Park, ~60 km south, are so popular, especially with the added attractions of walks and picnic facilities.

MORE about Berry Springs Nature Park and Howard Springs Nature Park

5 George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

Although there are regular sightings of Rufous Owl in the 130 year old Darwin Botanic Gardens, we had to make do with its other attractions as the owls remained elusive during our visit.

Red at the Darwin Botanic Gardens, Northern Territory*
Red at the Darwin Botanic Gardens, Northern Territory*

Luckily, there’s a lot more to see in this well-planned and varied 42 hectare park stretching from the sea to a small escarpment, one of the few in the world with naturally occurring marine and estuarine plants.

Desert Roses - these are near Wyndham, WA
Desert Roses

A network of walking trails winds through habitats like Rainforest Gully, the Baobab Collection, the exotic flora of the Plant Display House, a former church, and a boardwalk through the Mangroves.

But for MY money, don’t miss the Desert Rose display! Awesome!!

MORE about the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

6 Aquascene and Doctor’s Gully

Spotting AND hand-feeding a frenzy of local fish (yes, that’s a new collective noun) in historic Doctor’s Gully at high tide is a sure thing. A tradition of hand-feeding for over 60 years old (Woo Hoo! WAAAY older than me!) means the fish continue turn up in ever increasing numbers – AND numbers of species – to forage for bread.

Fish Feeding, Aquascene, Darwin
Fish Feeding, Aquascene, Darwin

It’s not that hard with multiple tourists lining the shores at high tide. The fish ALMOST overshadow the sensational views across the harbour!

Doctor’s Gully, the site of Peel’s Well – Darwin’s first fresh water supply – and Chinese market gardens, is worth exploring too. And if you’re a sucker for kitsch like me, you’ll grab an Aquascene pen with a travelling fish inside it on the way out!

MORE about Aquascene

7 Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

As much a community event as a market, groups of picnicking locals set up their tables and chairs on the beach, eating, drinking and watching the the sun sink into the gulf.

Pearl Lugger cruise boat at Sunset, Mindil Beach, Darwin*
Pearl Lugger cruise boat at Sunset, Mindil Beach, Darwin*

The markets were in full swing behind me as I watched Pearl Lugger turned cruise boat cross the setting sun – the only object visible on the water. After the free presentation at the caravan park I’d thought a swim at the beach was one of the Darwin things to do.

Mindil Beach by Day, Darwin, NT
Mindil Beach by Day, Darwin, NT

But despite the warm evening no one was actually in the water.

‘Does anyone go swimming here?’ I asked, like the naïve tourist I was. ‘Nah, love. Too many crocs,’ came the reply. ‘And it’s too cold,’ another local commented.

Well, that left me with only one course of action to take. A shopping frenzy from the market stalls followed by a total pig-out at the food stalls. The swim could wait for another time! And place 😀

MORE about Darwin’s Markets

8 Jumping Crocodiles

Not Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory
Not Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory

Our Jumping Crocodile Cruise wasn’t just memorable for the crocs. 75 minutes drive east of Darwin and we had a few minutes to kill while waiting for our Adelaide River cruise boat. What better way to pass the time than to check out our fellow passengers??

Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory
Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory

Sadly, little guidance exists for those unsure about what to wear to a crocodile viewing – we’d chosen the safe option of shorts and T-shirts. Not so the young woman in an outfit that combined the best (or worst) of Heidi and Morticia Addams! Even more sadly, I failed to capture it on film.

But even these dubious charms weren’t enough to distract us once the crocodiles started jumping!

Experience a prehistoric predator much closer to Darwin – try the Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove or hold a croc at Crocodylus Park and Zoo!

MORE about our Jumping Crocodiles adventure (and Heidi/Morticia)

9 Litchfield National Park

Not everyone visits the magnificent tropical Litchfield National Park for the termite mounds. Some people actually travel the 112 km south of Darwin to experience the wonderful array of waterfalls, inviting selection of swimming holes and network of short walks to most of the major attractions.

Termite Mound, Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory
Termite Mound, Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory*

But I’ll bet everyone’s got a photo like THIS!

MORE about Litchfield National Park

10 Mandorah

On our last day in Darwin, we tossed up between a Harbour Cruise or a 15 minute ferry ride across the harbour to Mandorah. I’m sure I would have been happy with the harbour cruise, but boy, am I glad we chose magnificent Mandorah!

Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory
Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory

Lunch at the Mandorah pub was all Barramundi Burgers, refreshing cider and Bob Marley in the background. If we’d ordered up our own vision of tropical paradise, it wouldn’t have been much different to this!

MORE about Mandorah

There’s a lot more things to do in Darwin than this teaser TOP Ten!

If you’ve got the time (and energy!) try the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory for the chilling Cyclone Tracy simulation; East Point Military Museum for insight into the bombing of Darwin in WWII; and a short drive south to the Adelaide River War Memorial.

Enjoy the water by hanging out at the Waterfront or the Wave Pool, or take a Harbour Cruise for harbour highlights or a Sunset cruise for drinks – or romance. And for a REAL taste of the Territory, be in Darwin for the annual Beer Can Regatta – 12th July in 2015!

Then there’s the festivals … but wait! You’ll have to discover it all for yourself!!  These best flights will get you there!

* Pics by Pilchard

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Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/02/cruising-with-crocodiles-on-australias-wildest-river/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/02/cruising-with-crocodiles-on-australias-wildest-river/#comments Sat, 14 Feb 2015 05:47:40 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3118 NEW from RedzAustralia!

‘There it is,’ shouted Pilchard, pointing towards the bank. I looked, but there was only an old tyre on the edge of the water nestled in the grass. Typical bloke. All excited about nothing. The boat moved closer to the river banks. ‘Where?’ I whined as cameras clicked all around me. Damn! If everyone else could see a monster crocodile,[...]

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Freakin' Scary!  Monster Crocodile, Victoria River, NT
Freakin’ Scary! Monster Crocodile, Victoria River, NT

‘There it is,’ shouted Pilchard, pointing towards the bank. I looked, but there was only an old tyre on the edge of the water nestled in the grass. Typical bloke. All excited about nothing. The boat moved closer to the river banks.

Croc on Victoria River Cruise
Are you SURE that’s not a tyre?

‘Where?’ I whined as cameras clicked all around me. Damn! If everyone else could see a monster crocodile, why couldn’t I? The boat edged even closer, heading right for the tyre on the grass.

‘There! There!’ Pilchard stabbed the air in a pointing frenzy. ‘If you can’t see it now, I can’t help you,’ he eventually shrugged, lifting his binoculars.

‘All I can see is that old tyre,’ I said, readying my camera anyway.

‘Look again! That’s NOT a tyre,’ Pilchard laughed as it finally clicked. And so did my camera. Better late than never, huh?

Crocodile from Cruise Boat, Victoria River, via Timber Creek
Crocodile from Cruise Boat, Victoria River, via Timber Creek

Half an hour later I’d seen more crocodiles than in the rest of my whole life AND Pilchards put together.

A lot of the bigger ones had names. Lord Lizard. Whitey. Old Broken Jaw.

White Crocodile, Victoria River Cruise, Northern Territory
White Crocodile, Victoria River Cruise, Northern Territory

Weirdly, there weren’t any called Freakin’ Scary.

There should have been.

As six scary metres (nearly 20 feet) of leather-coated muscle, razor sharp teeth and pre-historic cunning slid silently into the current swirling around our cruise boat on the Victoria River we waited for those cold yellow eyes to appear in the brownish water downstream.

Lord Lizard leaves the Victoria River Banks, Northern Territory
Lord Lizard leaves the Victoria River Banks, Northern Territory

They didn’t.

If he (yes, I’ve assumed this macho melange of features to be male) surfaced directly under us, it SO wouldn’t be a good time to find out the purpose-built M.V Fleetwing wasn’t croc-proof! But that was just one of the hazards of taking a tour into the wilderness along the Northern Territory’s Victoria River – arguably Australia’s wildest.

Broken Jaw's actually FATTER than the other crocodiles!
Broken Jaw – he’s actually FATTER than the other crocs!

 

The high crocodile count so far wasn’t doing anything to disprove it.

And neither was the scenery. As we raced 35 km (~22 miles) down the river towards our date with a Northern Territory sunset, the late afternoon glow was already lighting up the cliffs and escarpments of the wild and remote Yambarrin Ranges above the rivers broad, brown expanse.

View of a Bridge, Victoria River, via Timber Creek
View of a Bridge, Victoria River, via Timber Creek

 

Yes, brown. Just perfect for a crocodile to disappear in …

But the Victoria River Sunset Cruise isn’t just about crocodiles. Or sunset. From the Croc Stock Shop, owned and run by locals Meredith and Neville Fogarty, the 1971 bus took a roundabout route to the jetty at Big Horse Creek via some of the historic points of interest in and around Timber Creek.

Tour Bus at Museum
Tour Bus at Museum, Timber Creek, Northern Territory

So if the Suicide Tree, Timber Creek Musuem, Gregory’s Tree, Policeman’s Point, Live Croc feeding at the caravan park and the Bradshaw Field Training Area’s Bridge to Nowhere – with its vast array of signs warning of the horrible things that could, and WOULD happen to trespassers – sound intriguing to you, you’ll know why we stayed an extra day to explore. And if you stay tuned to this blog, you’ll eventually find out all about them AND get to read about our nightmare camper from hell story!

But I digress …

The Victoria River doesn’t discriminate between Australia’s two crocodile species, and neither do I. They’re BOTH scary – although the

Sea Eagle, Victoria River
White-bellied Sea Eagle, Victoria River

smaller freshwater croc isn’t known for its murderous tendencies towards humans. So despite the distractions of the superb Top End dry season scenery, I kept my eyes on the water.

As we passed the gravel islands and sandbanks mid-river, the massive saltwater crocodiles we’d seen earlier gave way to the smaller freshies.

Was it a coincidence that the bird life increased, with Jabiru (actual name Black-necked Stork), White-bellied Sea Eagles, Whistling Kites – and the strange sight of an Australasian Bustard in full flight?

Jabiru (aka Black-necked Stork), Victoria River
Jabiru (aka Black-necked Stork), Victoria River

The croc sightings of any variety dropped off altogether as we drew level with the mid-river pontoon – another purpose-built structure surrounded by a cage of the extra-strength wire mesh that (we hoped) made it croc-proof. But this, and the superb array of hot and cold nibbles and drinks weren’t the only things to make this sunset memorable.

Sunset on the Victoria River
Sunset on the Victoria River Cruise, via Timber Creek

What do you do when nature calls and you’re in the middle of the wildest – and probably most crocodile-infested – river in Australia?

You visit the pontoon loo – scenic enough to deserve its own post AND one of the coveted spots in my book – of course!

Pontoon Loo, Victoria River Cruise
Pontoon Loo, Victoria River Cruise

As we drank in our drinks, inhaled the superb array of hot and cold snacks and drank in the awesome scenery, the sun set in a blaze of gold against the clear sky, it’s final rays silhouetting the dramatic escarpment reflected in the river below. A houseboat floated over by the river banks and wallabies grazed on the grassy river flats downstream.

Magical. Memorable. Magnificent.

‘Wouldn’t it be great if a crocodile took one of those wallabies?’ a fellow passenger, drink in hand, stage-whispered to her husband, breaking the hushed silence.

Silly me.

Sunset Silhouettes, Victoria River
Sunset Silhouettes, Victoria River

 

Of COURSE that’s just what a panorama like the one above needed to bring it alive! Seeing a defenceless animal massacred by a crocodile right in front of us against that awesome backdrop of setting sun, ragged mountains and broad river would be the perfect way to round out the most sensational sunset experience ever. Wouldn’t it?!?!

NOT!

I guess I just don’t have that bloodthirsty gene.

Anyway, everyone knows the Victoria River crocs are too well fed! Taking the cattle from the local stations as they graze the river banks is a cinch. And stealing barramundi straight off the line if the fisherfolk are too slow to bring them in is too easy.

Who needs a wallaby-hors-d’oeuvre anyway?

Moonrise on a Croc-proof boat, Victoria River
Moonrise on a Croc-proof boat, Victoria River

All too soon our time was up and we reluctantly finished up the snacks, left the loo behind and the wallabies intact and jetted back down the river with the sun’s last rays at our backs as the moon rose ahead.

If I hadn’t been too busy taking photos of the incredible scenery, I may have seen another crocodile – or two or three.

But by then I didn’t care.

Want your own croc experience but don’t have any transport?  Start here with the best flights!

Freshwater Croc under Timber Creek Bridge
Freshwater Croc under Timber Creek Bridge

Fast Facts:

What: The Victoria River Cruise 3½ hour, 70 km round trip Sunset Wilderness Cruise

Where: Timber Creek, 285 km SW from Katherine along the Victoria Highway, Northern Territory

When: Daily from April to September (see website for exact dates)

Cost: $95 per adult, $50 per child (as at 13/2/15)

How to get there: Self-drive to Timber Creek from Darwin or Katherine from the east; Kununurra from the west. Or get up north REAL quick by checking out these cheap flights!

Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at Sunset
View from Escarpment above Timber Creek at Sunset

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Next Post: Aussie ABC – S is for Slang      Previous Post: The Ten Commandants

Disclosure: Pilchard and I booked and paid full price for our Victoria River Sunset cruise and did not ask for or receive any discounts or concessions.

Lookout over Timber Creek township, Northern Territory
Lookout over Timber Creek township, Northern Territory

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Aussie ABC: R is for Rocks https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/aussie-abc-r-is-for-rocks/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/aussie-abc-r-is-for-rocks/#comments Sun, 21 Dec 2014 22:49:05 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2951 NEW from RedzAustralia!

With the world’s biggest rock AND largest monolith*, Australia’s the land of the ultimate ROCK – or at least the coolest Australian rock formations! But where’s a keen rockhound to go once they’ve seen Mt Augustus (biggest rock) and Uluru (biggest monolith)?? Check out a few more Australian Rock Stars – otherwise known as distinctive and unusual Australian rock formations – with[...]

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Sawn Rocks via Narrabri, New South Wales
Sawn Rocks via Narrabri, New South Wales

With the world’s biggest rock AND largest monolith*, Australia’s the land of the ultimate ROCK – or at least the coolest Australian rock formations! But where’s a keen rockhound to go once they’ve seen Mt Augustus (biggest rock) and Uluru (biggest monolith)??

Check out a few more Australian Rock Stars – otherwise known as distinctive and unusual Australian rock formations – with this handy guide to 12 HOTTEST Rock spots from all around OZ!

1 Bald Rock via Tenterfield, NSW

This 750m x 500m monolith around 25 north of Tenterfield in New South Wales’ Granite Belt isn’t Australia’s largest monolith. But it’s Australia’s largest GRANITE monolith!!

Bald Rock via Tenterfield, New South Wales
Bald Rock via Tenterfield, New South Wales

Thrill seekers and the time-poor can take the short, steep exposed route straight up the face to the summit – 200 metres above the surrounding plains. Those wanting a more relaxing experience (read: more cowardly) can take the longer, more scenic route through the bushland up the back. Either way, the exposed summit has spectacular views over two states – and a spectacular drop down to the bottom!

MORE about Bald Rock National Park

2 Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, SA

The remarkable shapes of these rocks sculptured by wind, water and weather at the southern end of Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island off the South Australian coast are a real clue to what their ultra-imaginative name actually means 😀

Remarkable Rocks
Red & Pilchard at Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Australia’s 3rd largest island – an intriguing blend of superb natural attractions, wildlife, gourmet treats and beaches – is South Australia’s answer to the tropics.

But whatever their reasons for visiting Kangaroo Island, sooner or later, most visitors head for the all-natural Remarkable Rocks – where they’ll take a photo remarkably like the one above!

MORE about Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Balancing Rock, Chillagoe, Queensland
Balancing Rock, Chillagoe, Queensland

3 Balancing Rock & Caves – Chillagoe, QLD

I’ve still got the cool Serpentine (I think) egg I bought from a Chillagoe shop on my only visit 20+ years ago, but it’s Balancing Rock and the Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park tour I remember.

Outside, the dramatic jagged edges of the reef housing the caves tower above the classic outback landscape.

Inside Chillagoe Caves
Inside Chillagoe Caves, Far North Queensland

It’s just as dramatic inside – a separate, subterranean world of limestone in intriguing formations, weathered caverns and towering columns.

Back outside and the self-guided walks to the historic smelter sites, Aboriginal rock art are interesting, but it’s the amazing Balancing Rock that’ll get you snapping!

MORE about Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park

4 Tessellated Pavement, Tasmania

I’m such a sucker for names that when I heard about an attraction in a place called Pirates Bay near the township of Eaglehawk Neck on the Tasman Peninsula, it didn’t matter what it was. I just HAD to go see Tasmania’s Tessellated Pavement – one of the best known examples*** of this complex geological phenomenon involving rock fractures, polygonal blocks, erosion and sea salts. If you’re not a geologist, this is probably enough information. If you ARE a geologist, then you’ll already know WAY more than this!

Tesselated Pavement, Tasmania
Tessellated Pavement, via Eaglehawk Neck, Tasmania

At low tide, the tessellations (like mosaic tiles) make an interesting patchwork on the flat rock platform just above the water level. But make sure your cool pavement shot isn’t ruined by slipping on the wet rocks!

MORE about the Tessellated Pavement

5 Mirima National Park, Kununurra

Mirima National Park, via Kununurra, Western Australia
Mirima National Park, via Kununurra, Western Australia

Tiny Mirima National Park on the outskirts of Kimberley town Kununurra, with its wildlife, walks and wheelchair access, is a chance to experience the MUCH bigger West OZ attraction Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles) in miniature.

I HOPE it's a Python!
I HOPE it’s a Python!

Formed by the same process as its larger counterpart, Mirima’s sedimentary rock layers glow in the early morning and late evening light. And with the right angle of perspective and the right level of concentration, a more skilled photograper than I could ALMOST convince viewers that the shots were taken elsewhere!

But I had no time for photographic trickery – I was more interested in avoiding the 3 metre snake!

MORE about Mirima National Park

6 Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

Snapping a killer sunset or sunrise in what is arguably Australia’s most intriguing rock pile without other people in your shot can be a challenge!

But the complicated geological theory involving weathered layers of sandstone and granite that’s the standard scientific explanation for the almost perfectly spherical shapes doesn’t quite do justice to the magical setting and extraordinary light.

Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) at Sunset, Northern Territory
Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) at Sunset, Northern Territory

So forget the ‘facts’, settle back, and drink in the magic of Karlu Karlu with the story of the Rainbow Serpent. According to this Indigenous legend, those spherical shapes are the Rainbow Serpent’s fossilized eggs!

Now … isn’t that a FAR more satisfying explanation for this geological phenomenon?

MORE about Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu)

7 Island Rock, via Kalbarri, WA

According to the tourist information brochure, Island Rock, one of the more spectacular of Kalbarri National Park’s Coastal Cliff attractions, ‘can be enjoyed from the safety of the lookout enclosures’!

Island Rock, Kalbarri
Island Rock, Kalbarri, Western Australia

But it doesn’t explain how safely walk the coastal trail atop the sandstone cliffs so high above the pounding sea below it’s almost impossible to fit them into a photo! Perhaps that’s why many tourists opt for a visit to the park’s best known rock formation, Natures Window!!

If you can tear your eyes away from Island Rock and the amazing sculpted cliff face, so treacherous to ships and bumblefooted tourists, you may be lucky enough to see whales far out to sea. But if the sheer drop gives you vertigo, turn and face inland – and you’ll see one of Australia’s most scenic loos**!

MORE about Kalbarri National Park

8 Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

It’s an easy walk from the car park to the dramatic Sawn Rocks – Australia’s best example of the columnar jointing phenomenon more commonly called organ piping located a few kilometres from Narrabri in the shadow of Mt Kaputar National Park. Best viewed in the morning when the sun (if it’s out!) strikes the rock face, bringing out the amazing colours and shadows.

Sawn Rocks Close Up, Narrabri, New South Wales
Sawn Rocks Close Up, Narrabri, New South Wales

Standing underneath the soaring rock face can be awe-inspiring – until you realise that those enormous Greek temple ruinous rock columns all around can only have come from one place.

Yep, directly above!

MORE about Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

Hollow Mountain Hollows
Hollow Mountain Hollows

9 Hollow Mountain, Victoria

You can’t swing a brush-tailed possum in Victoria’s Grampians National Park without hitting some kind of rock. So much so that walking through the park could give you a serious case of rock overload that only a fix from the awesome Halls Gap Bakery could cure 😀

But I’m betting even the most jaded rockhound couldn’t fail to be impressed by Hollow Mountain, in the Northern Grampians. Exploring the wind-sculpted caves, caverns and crags can actually be more fun than reaching the summit!

Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria
Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria

And I’m not just saying that because I’m exercise-averse! No, REALLY!!

MORE about Hollow Mountain and Northern Grampians

10 Balls Pyramid – via Lord Howe Island, NSW

Balls Pyramid
Balls Pyramid, Dead Ahead!

For pure rock star awesomeness, there’s not much to beat the 552m high spire of the world’s largest volcanic rock stack, out in the middle of the ocean and one of the only points of the mostly submerged continent of Zealandia still above sea level.

It’s an achievement to even get there. A 700+ km flight from Sydney to Lord Howe Island in a small plane that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not be able to land. Then a 23 km boat journey that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not actually depart as scheduled.

Once you’re on the boat, it’s easy. Unless you suffer from seasickness, in which case the hardest part of the trip is NOW!

MORE about Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island

11 Bunda Cliffs, South Australia

Is it possible to have TOO much limestone??

If you’re not sure, head down south and drive the Nullarbor Plain skirting the Great Australian Bight. There’s nothing much between the road on the southern edge of Australia and Antarctica – except the majestic Bunda cliffs, ranging from 60 – 120 metres high and stretching for ~100 km.

Bunda Cliffs up Close, Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain
Bunda Cliffs up Close, Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain

That makes them the longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the WORLD!

If that’s not quite enough limestone for you, then factor in the 270,000 km² of the Nullarbor Plain itself – World’s largest limestone karst formation!

MORE about the Bunda Cliffs and Nullarbor Plain

12 Mount Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland

The Chimneys, Mt Moffatt, Queensland
The Chimneys, Mt Moffatt, Queensland

Mount Moffatt, 220 km north of Mitchell, part of the Carnarvon National Park and containing Queensland’s highest plateau (the Consuelo Tableland) is worth the long drive – and the flat tyre we got the instant we drove into the park many years ago!

Its remoteness made it the ideal hideout for the bushrangers, including the violent Kenniff brothers and notorious cattle duffer Harry Redford (sometimes known as Captain Starlight), who operated in the area. And the local Bidjara people, who refused to be ousted from their land, left a legacy of rock imagery throughout the park.

But it’s the sandstone formations we came to see – an awesome array of arches, ‘chimneys’ and monoliths scattered decoratively around the park. There’s no doubt about it – these rocks ROCK!

MORE about Mt Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park

Marlong Arch, Mt Moffatt
Under Marlong Arch, Mt Moffatt, Queensland

That’s just a sample – and I bet I’ve missed YOUR favourite HOT Australian Rock Formations!  Tell me below!!

Want even MORE?

Bunda Cliffs, Nullarbor Plain
Bunda Cliffs at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, SA

* According to www.answers.com HERE

** Yes, it’s in my book HERE

*** According to Wikipedia HERE

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TOP 7 Central Australian RED HOT Spots once you’re done with Uluru! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/01/top-7-central-australian-red-hot-spots-once-youre-done-with-uluru/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/01/top-7-central-australian-red-hot-spots-once-youre-done-with-uluru/#comments Tue, 21 Jan 2014 00:33:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=8 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For some, the whole point of Central Australia is Uluru. For others the whole point of AUSTRALIA is Uluru. And who can blame them? It’s HUGE. It’s magnificent. It’s RED!! But Central OZ isn’t just about Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Of COURSE they’re several kinds of awesome, but there are lots of other attractions that’ll show you just as good[...]

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Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

For some, the whole point of Central Australia is Uluru. For others the whole point of AUSTRALIA is Uluru. And who can blame them? It’s HUGE. It’s magnificent. It’s RED!!

But Central OZ isn’t just about Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Of COURSE they’re several kinds of awesome, but there are lots of other attractions that’ll show you just as good (and far less crowded) a time! And – even better – they’ve all got that trademark Central Australian RED!

So you’ve hired the car, seen Uluru and you’ve got another few days to kill. Or if you’re REALLY lucky, you’re an Aussie with a camper trailer and a bit of time on your hands.

Just like me!

So what do you do?  Hit the road – and see my TOP 7 Central OZ Red HOT Spots!  Just click the headings for more info!!

Kings Canyon Walls, Central Australia
Kings Canyon Walls, Central Australia

1. Watarrka (Kings Canyon)

Just down the road and round the corner from Uluru, Watarrka, as it is known to the local indigenous people is SO worth the 166 km one way detour off the Lasseter Highway back towards Alice Springs. For many Aussies, visiting Kings Canyon is a tribute pilgrimage to a famous scene from classic OZ movie ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert’. Haven’t seen it? Click HERE for a trailer!

View from Kings Canyon Rim Walk, Central Australia
View from Kings Canyon Rim Walk, Central Australia

But you don’t have to hike the Canyon in a frock to show yourself a good time. The 6 km (4 mile) Canyon Rim circuit requires a reasonable level of fitness, but as you cross the rugged rocks you’ll get to see stunning vistas across the plain, the Lost City and Garden of Eden and sensational sunsets that make those towering rocky RED cliffs GLOW.

Besides, it’s not a race! Is it?

Stay at the Kings Canyon Wilderness Resort campground (closest to the Canyon) or at nearby Kings Creek station so you don’t have to rush. The men in frocks have long gone, but the awesome RED Canyon will be here for a LONG while yet!

2. Stuarts Well

So you’re back on the Stuart Highway heading north to Alice Springs. An hour or so before you get there, you’ll pass the Stuarts Well Roadhouse. Unless you’re a SMART traveller, in which case you’ll stop. Because Stuarts Well has one of the most bizarre and uniquely Australian Outback travel experiences you’re likely to see.

Stuarts Well Campground, Central Australia
Stuarts Well Campground, Central Australia

Unless you’ve already spotted a singing, piano playing Dingo named Dinky someplace else, that is.

For many years, roadhouse owner Jim ran tours to Kings Canyon from a resort he and his family built from scratch on nearby leasehold land. Until one year, the landowner resisted all attempts to re-negotiate their lease. Strangely unwilling to ‘gift’ the resort they’d paid for and built by themselves on their leasehold to someone who hadn’t done anything towards it but collect the rent, Jim and his family destroyed it.

Dinky, the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo, Stuarts Well
Dinky, the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo, Stuarts Well

Now Jim’s based at Stuarts Well. As well as running tours to nearby Rainbow Valley, Jim now assists visitors achieve their (perhaps as yet unrealised) dream of seeing a singing, piano playing real live dingo in the flesh! For perhaps the first and last times in their lives …

There’s even accommodation and campsites at the roadhouse for those who want a dinner and show experience with a difference!

STOP PRESS!  In what must be a dark day for Central Australian Tourism, Dinky the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo has retired.  Of course, the legend lives on in the hearts and minds of those who have seen him … AND countless YouTube clips!  See Dinky in full voice HERE!

Just as well there’s a special bonus EXTRA attraction below to make up the numbers, huh?!

3. Rainbow Valley

Scenic Public Loo at Rainbow Valley, Central Australia
Scenic Public Loo at Rainbow Valley, Central Australia

Staying at Stuarts Well puts you in the hot seat for a 22 km one way dirt road detour off the Stuart Highway to the amazing Rainbow Valley.

Rainbow Valley Rocks!
Rainbow Valley Rocks! (pic by Pilchard)

With a rainbow of multicoloured rocks rising above the (frequently dry) salt lake in front of it, the rocks are easily accessed from a short track from the visitors car park.

Exploring and/or photographing the rocks is an excellent way to pass a few hours. Or a day. Or more …

Stay at the Rainbow Valley Campground (is it a coincidence that my best photo of the Valley contains one of the best Scenic Public Toilets in the country?) to be right in the (RED) hot seat for some extraordinary outback sunsets.And if it rains?Well … the road might be impassable, but at least you’ll get to-die-for pics of the amazing Rainbow Valley formations reflected in the lake!

And I’ll be as jealous as hell!

4. The Ochre Pits

Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

Many years ago when I first toured the West MacDonnell Ranges, I didn’t call in to the Ochre Pits ~115 km from Alice Springs along Namatjira Drive. I won’t be making that mistake again! The intriguing contours of (not just RED) colour in the creek bed and surrounding rocks, and its status as a place of significance to local Indigenous people from the area show a different – and fascinating – side to Central Australia.

5. Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

Just up the road from the Ochre Pits, if you can’t find LOTS of cool things to do at Ormiston Gorge, you clearly haven’t read my 7 TOP Ormiston Gorge attractions guide (see link in title)!

Yes, it’s going to take more than one day to explore this end of the West MacDonnell Ranges and Ormiston Gorge is the best spot from which to do it!

Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

Staying at the nearby Glen Helen Resort with its own spectacular gorge, or the Ormiston Gorge campground means you don’t have to rush back to Alice Springs before you’ve seen – and done – everything.

But be warned. Don’t bother with this option unless you’re up for magnificent sunrises and sunsets; the Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk – one of the best short(ish) hikes in OZ; the stupendous splendour of nearby Mt Sonder; the beauty of Glen Helen Gorge and the glorious, glowing RED – everywhere!

6. Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) Conservation Reserve

Tylers Pass Lookout, West MacDonnell Ranges,  Central Australia
Tylers Pass Lookout, West MacDonnell Ranges,  Central Australia

This is as close as I got to Gosse Bluff. 175 km west of Alice Springs, the long line of gorges, waterholes and mountain ranges that forms the West MacDonnell Ranges comes to an end at Tylers Pass – from here the road snakes down onto the plain.

We’d spent the day exploring the area around Ormiston Gorge and driving as far as the Tylers Pass lookout had been an afterthought to end the day before heading back to the campground.

About 21 km from the lookout, the vast bulk of Tnorala – the remains of a comet crater, 5 km (~3 miles) across – is an impressive sight.

Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) from Tylers Pass Lookout, Central Australia
Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) from Tylers Pass Lookout, Central Australia

With no camping allowed at the Bluff, the only option was a flying visit. But even if we’d wanted to attempt a kamikaze night drive cutting a swathe through the nocturnal desert creatures feeding at the road’s edge, visitors to Tnorala need a Mereenie Tour Pass. And the nearest place to get one was back at Glen Helen Station.

But it’s SO on the list for next time!

Simpsons Gap via Alice Springs, Northern Territory
Simpsons Gap via Alice Springs, Northern Territory

7. Simpsons Gap

Yes, I know. EVERYONE’S been to Simpsons Gap, that narrow passage (there’s only so many ways to say ‘Gap’) through the MacDonnell ranges.

Only 18 km west of Alice Springs (or 17 km along the bike track) it’s the ‘Claytons’ Central Australia tripette de rigueur from the Alice if you haven’t got much time.

And there’s nothing wrong with that!

Simpsons Gap from Cassia Hill Walk, Central Australia
Simpsons Gap from Cassia Hill Walk, Central Australia

BUT the rewards are even greater for those who spend a bit more time and take the 1 hour return Cassia Hill walk up onto the schist escarpment (once part of the floor of a massive inland sea) and look down on the Gap.

Wildflowers, classic Central Australian scenery – and a staggering 360ºview, of which Simpsons Gap is a very small part.

That’s the thing about Central Australia. Wide open spaces. Magnificent mountain ranges. And an endless supply of RED!

Ranges from Cassia Hill Walk, Simpsons Gap, Central Australia
Ranges from Cassia Hill Walk, Simpsons Gap, Central Australia

Did I say SEVEN cool things? Of course there are WAAAAAAY more than that – so here’s another one for nothing!

8. Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles)

Sunrise at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), Northern Territory
Sunrise at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), Northern Territory

Even though it’s 412 km and ~4 hours north of Alice Springs, the great sprawl of spherical sandstone rocks weathered by the wind and sand all aglow in the Outback light are worth the trek.

Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) Campground, Northern Territory
Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) Campground, Northern Territory

Especially if you’re there at sunset. Or sunrise! Which generally means staying at the Devils Marbles campground, or at either of the nearby settlements of Wauchope or Wycliffe Well.

Aboriginal Dreamtime legend and scientific explanation both offer theories about the spheres’ formation. But in this region with its strong colours, harsh climate and stark beauty, the Indigenous theory seems more appropriate. It’s easy to see why this is a sacred site and also a ceremonial and trade meeting place for four different Aboriginal language groups.

Karlu Karlu/Devils Marbles, Northern Territory
Karlu Karlu/Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

Besides, just 20 minutes further south and also renowned as the alien capital of Australia is Wycliffe Well! But that’s another story …

Central Australia has enough other attractions in both colours – RED and not-RED – to keep you busy for weeks.

What’s YOUR favourite?

Want MORE?

Major Mitchell Cockatoo near Alice Springs, Northern Territory
Major Mitchell Cockatoo near Alice Springs, Northern Territory

The post TOP 7 Central Australian RED HOT Spots once you’re done with Uluru! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:20:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=66 NEW from RedzAustralia!

It doesn’t matter where we are. Or how far we’ve travelled. Or how hot it is. Or cold. Or what time of day. Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast. We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café! Because it’s ALWAYS open. For us … … and[...]

The post Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

It doesn’t matter where we are.

Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, Far North Queensland
Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, FNQ

Or how far we’ve travelled.

Or how hot it is.

Or cold.

Or what time of day.

Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast.

We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café!

Because it’s ALWAYS open.

For us …

… and serves up food just the way we like it!

With fresh, local ingredients.

Like food from our favourite bakeries.

Or fast food.

Or even good, old fashioned home-cooked meals.

But Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café isn’t open to just ANYONE!  Its exclusive membership deals are just for two!

The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia
The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia

Usually.

BUT … there’s an occasional dispensation for a special guest, or a mate.

Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales
Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales

And the best thing about Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café?

Against a fascinating and ever-changing backdrop – tropical, desert, coastal, inland, rocky, sandy, scrub, bushland, beach, mallee, lakes, rivers – the Café provides an oasis of stability.

Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Because no matter how dramatic the changes to scenery, weather or company, the Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café Chairs have remained the same for nearly a decade.

So whatever adventures we’re having on the road, we come home to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café.

Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland
Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland

And our Café Chairs!

They’re not even close to being worn out yet, so if you’re out on the road and you see them (and us!), why not drop in and see if the Cafe’s open?!

Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia
Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia

Want MORE?

The post Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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