For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds. On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)! Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs. It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]
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]]>For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds. On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)! Here’s how!
A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs. It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.
135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.
Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!
‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.
Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?
No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!
I’d just experienced it in a different spot.
Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge. They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.
Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.
Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …
As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area. Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.
Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.
Hunting for fish.
No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!
We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.
But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.
Na na nana nah!
This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights. Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail. That’s just part of the fun.
But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!
If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!
The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.
But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road. It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.
We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track. Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.
BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!
Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!
The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!
But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.
Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.
And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!
Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!
And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!
There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it. But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.
It’s a fine view in its own right. And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.
The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.
So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.
Well, almost!
I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??
Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.
‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.
But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.
The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.
Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?
With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.
Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.
Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?
And if so, what does that make US?
The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall. The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.
Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.
But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!
Read More about Central Australia:
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]]>‘It’s just a short walk up the gorge starting over there,’ the kiosk attendant told the three fit young women in front of us, waving casually towards the trail head. Then it was our turn. Pilchard produced his senior’s card. ‘The track is uneven and rocky, and there’s a couple of creek crossings so please take it easy and take[...]
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]]>‘It’s just a short walk up the gorge starting over there,’ the kiosk attendant told the three fit young women in front of us, waving casually towards the trail head.
Then it was our turn. Pilchard produced his senior’s card.
‘The track is uneven and rocky, and there’s a couple of creek crossings so please take it easy and take your time,’ the kiosk attendant told us. He pointed to the trail head, thus missing the venomous look Pilchard shot him.
But the clock was ticking, so jostling passing a few straggling Grey Nomads and ignoring the attendant’s instruction, we raced up the track like people half our age, barely even pausing for photos of the magnificent cycad palms and other remnant vegetation from a previous, wetter age.
‘Late’ isn’t a concept normally associated with self-guided tours of gorges or other scenic marvels, but Standley Chasm, also known as Angkerle Atwatye to the local Indigenous people, is an exception.
Although spectacular at any time, the sun only enters the narrow gap between its sheer and towering walls around midday for about half an hour.
And that’s when those red rock walls GLOW!
About 20 minutes too late on our only previous visit eight years ago, I took a couple of photos. On time for our June 2012 visit, the tally was closer to 200!
Well, almost.
As we entered the chasm and in our haste to hog the best spot bring you these photos, we stepped around a man lying in an awkward position on the rocky floor.
But before you judge us as heartless and shallow, he was no out-of-condition senior in need of resuscitation but a cameraman filming a sequence with ‘Fred’ for Grey Nomad bible favourite Caravan and Motorhome on Tour magazine’s DVD insert!
Surrounded by a feeding frenzy of fans, Fred’s strategic position at the head of the chasm made it difficult to reach the best vantage points.
But I guess that’s why I was given elbows …
Privately owned and run by the Iwupataka Land Trust, Angkerle Atwatye is more commonly known as Standley Chasm, so named in honour of Ida Standley, Alice Springs’ first school teacher and first non-Aboriginal woman to see this amazing place.
Now it’s a popular stopping point for tourists at the start of their exploration of the magnificent West MacDonnell Ranges.
Out of Alice Springs in the middle of Australia’s Red Centre, the ranges spread both east AND west from ‘the Alice’, and Standley Chasm is just a taste of what to expect along the way.
I fear at one point I crossed the cameraman’s line of vision, so the Caravan and Motorhome on Tour DVD #178 MAY feature a red-head in a green T-shirt manically taking photos.
But if she looks fat, you’ll know the camera equipment was defective …
As we returned down the path, Pilchard plotting to challenge the young kiosk attendant to a race up the track, hordes of tourists continued to pour up the gorge to the chasm.
The urge to tell them they’d missed the best bit was ALMOST overwhelming.
But Fred was right. No one leaves Angkerle Atwatye without a smile on their face!
If you need more convincing that Standley Chasm, Alice Springs and Australia’s awesome Red Centre could be the start of a fabulous vacation, just check out the links below!
And if THEY don’t tempt you, nothing will!
Tempted? There’s always a chance for last minute flights if you want to see the sights of Central Australia NOW!
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]]>All roads lead to Alice Springs – as close as a fart in an outhouse to the centre of OZ! It’s not the country’s official geographic centre – but go on! Have a look at the map of Australia – how do you find the centre of THAT?! But exact centre or not, no town defines OZ quite like Alice[...]
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]]>All roads lead to Alice Springs – as close as a fart in an outhouse to the centre of OZ! It’s not the country’s official geographic centre – but go on!
Have a look at the map of Australia – how do you find the centre of THAT?!
But exact centre or not, no town defines OZ quite like Alice Springs – aka ‘The Alice’!
This town at the centre of Central Australia is a microcosm of Australia’s quintessence, and is therefore worthy to introduce my Aussie ABC – the archetypes of awesome, amazing Australia (some more great ‘A’ words in case you hadn’t noticed)!
While many Australian landscapes look completely unlike those in and around Alice Springs and Central Australia, I’ll bet that if someone says ‘Australia’ to you, images of this region are what you’ll more than likely first think of.
Especially the REDS of gorges, chasms, rocks, earth and sunsets …
… and the rugged Outback ranges …
… and the endless blue, Blue, BLUE (mostly) cloudless skies …
… and the distinctive Central OZ desert landscapes that you’ll always recognise even without a caption!
HHHMMMmmm… perhaps that makes the whole area too much of a cliché?
Or maybe not.
Lets take an introductory tour to see what some of the Alice’s different aspects look like!
An oasis in the desert (courtesy of the Great Artesian Basin), see its unique natural wonders for yourself – regional birds and other fauna at the Alice Springs Desert Park, and local plants and wildflowers especially adapted to arid land life at the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens.
And of course you can’t miss the amazing landscape – it surrounds you wherever you go…
Descendants of the original indigenous inhabitants, Afghan cameleers and white settlers rub shoulders with grey nomads and tourists from all over the world – and the rich indigenous cultural heritage is showcased throughout the town and region.
The Alice Springs of Neville Shute’s classic novel ‘A Town Like Alice’ is almost a character in its own right. And since my first visit in the early noughties, I’ve been addicted to its eclectic mix of cultures, landscapes, flora and fauna – and it’s within cooee of even more unique Australiana (aka ‘oddities’)!
Head from Alice Springs in ANY direction and you’ll see what I mean. For example: Kata Tjuta (and of course Uluru) to the south west. ‘Dinky’ the singing, piano playing dingo at Stuarts Well to the south. Rainbow Valley to the south east. And of course, due north to the Devils Marbles and Wycliffe Well – self-proclaimed UFO capital of Australia.
You’ve just got to love a place that’s adapted so well to its harsh environment that the annual Henley-on-Todd regatta is cancelled if there IS water in the river! Or with restaurants that combine usually unrelated cuisine types! It was in the Swiss/Indian restaurant (no longer operating) where a staff member once mistook me for a man – the dim light, perhaps? Or should I just rethink that androgynous haircut …
And it’s possibly the only place in the country – if not the world! – where you can stay in the ‘G’day Mate’ caravan park!
Of course there’s WAAAAY more to Alice Springs than this – museums, parks, Indigenous heritage, lookouts, art, waterholes – so if you’re looking for the definitive exposé of this fascinating region, my Aussie ABC isn’t it.
But if it’s left you wanting more of the laid-back Central Australian vibe in and around (arguably) Australia’s most intriguing town, do it the easy way and let the My Adventure Store travel experts show you around!
Want MORE of my take on TOP Aussie Town Alice Springs and Central Australia?
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