Gorges Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/gorges/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Gorges Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/gorges/ 32 32 My Top 7 Things to Do – Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/#comments Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=71 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]

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Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how!

A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.

135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.

Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!

1 Sunrise at Ghost Gum Lookout:

Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge

‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.

Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?

No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!

I’d just experienced it in a different spot.

Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge.  They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.

Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.

Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …

Dingo at Sunrise
Dingo at Sunrise

As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area.  Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.

Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.

Hunting for fish.

No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!

We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.

But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.

Na na nana nah!

2 Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk

Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia

This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights.  Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail.  That’s just part of the fun.

But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!

If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!

3 Larapinta LITE:

The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.

But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road.  It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.

Just can't have too much spinifex ... Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge
Just can’t have too much spinifex … Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge

We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track.  Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.

BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!

Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!

4 Glen Helen Gorge:

Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia

The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!

Glen Helen Resort Piano
Glen Helen Resort Piano

But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.

Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.

And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!

5 Mt Sonder Lookout:

Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia
Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia

Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!

Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout
Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout

And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!

There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it.  But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.

It’s a fine view in its own right.  And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.

6 Ormiston Gorge Campground:

Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia

The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.

So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.

Well, almost!

I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??

Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.

‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.

But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.

The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.

Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?

With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.

Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.

Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?

And if so, what does that make US?

7 Ghost Gum Loop at Sunset:

Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall.  The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.

Ghost Gum Lookout - and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Lookout – and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.

But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset

Read More about Central Australia:

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Walk Dales Gorge! Karijini National Park, Western Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/08/walk-dales-gorge-karijini-national-park-western-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/08/walk-dales-gorge-karijini-national-park-western-australia/#comments Sun, 04 Aug 2013 03:21:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=31 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The Evening Before … I gripped the railing and looked through the deep shadows down the deep RED gash of Dales Gorge. WAAAAAY down. Late afternoon at the lookout meant the sun was long gone from the gorge floor.  Even though it had lit up the eastern wall quite spectacularly. Ho Hum. Another day in the Pilbara, another killer landscape[...]

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Sunset at Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
Sunset at Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

The Evening Before …

I gripped the railing and looked through the deep shadows down the deep RED gash of Dales Gorge. WAAAAAY down. Late afternoon at the lookout meant the sun was long gone from the gorge floor.  Even though it had lit up the eastern wall quite spectacularly.

Circular Pool from Above, Karijini National Park
Circular Pool from Above, Karijini National Park

Ho Hum.

Another day in the Pilbara, another killer landscape …

A movement among the rocks far below caught my eye.

Two hikers, the size of ants negotiated massive rock slabs higher than they were.  They crossed vast tables of square-but rock, as they headed towards the imaginatively named Circular Pool.

Yes, that white speck at the waters edge in this photo really IS a person!

‘That’s where we’ll go tomorrow,’ Pilchard announced.

Say WHAT?? How in heck were we going to get down there when the map showed ‘cliff risk area’ symbols all along the gorge edge? Symbols whose warnings I was only too happy to heed?

That ‘killer’ landscape was taking on a whole new AND unwelcome meaning …

Rock Layers en route to Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Rock Layers en route to Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

Hiking down Dales Gorge

The next morning, we picked our way along the goat track rocky path winding down the sheer cliff under the Three Ways Lookout and past one of those ‘Cliff Risk Area’ signs. I realised I didn’t have anything to worry about.

Dales Gorge Rock
Dales Gorge Rock, Karijini National Park

A strategically placed ladder made negotiating the really steep bits almost easy.

And if I DID slip and fall??

Well … it’d be hard to find a more picturesque location in which to receive a serious – or even fatal – injury. Or two. Or even die.

No, Karijini National Park was no place for a coward.

Set amidst the impossibly RED Hamersley Range and out in the deep heart of mining country, Karijini’s warning signs are for real.

Rangers and volunteers risk – and sometimes lose – their lives rescuing tourists who don’t heed the dangers.

Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

I was watching my footing as we took the Circular Pool detour.  We crossed those same gigantic rock shelves we’d viewed from the lookout the evening before.

They weren’t as bad as they’d looked from above.

But I hoped the people at the lookout above didn’t throw anything down …

Blue Danger

After leaving the rock slabs, the river waters ran deep through groves of trees. Those red Red RED rocky walls towering high above, tinged every now and then with a dash of blue.

Blue?? In this location and in these rocks it took on a sinister meaning …

Rock Layers, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Rock Layers, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

Only about 50 km away as the crow flies is the closed-down town of Wittenoom.That’s where crocidolite– otherwise known as the potentially deadly Blue Asbestos – was mined extensively in what surely must be Australia’s greatest industrial disaster.  It’s since been immortalised by Aussie Band Midnight Oil in their song Blue Sky Mine.

The mine was closed in 1966 for economic rather than safety reasons.  However, it is estimated that in addition to the 2000+ deaths from asbestos related diseases, the death toll will peak in the 2020s.

Were these crocidolite layers in the rock?? Perhaps not, but I was leaving them well alone …

Like I said. No place for a coward.

After the de-gazettal of Wittenoom, the nearby town of Tom Price*** inherited the ‘Karijini Gateway’ tag and is the closest provider of goods and services.

Dales Gorge Cascades, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
Dales Gorge Cascades, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

Hiking back up the gorge

Although only a small stretch of the 40+ km length of Dales Gorge is accessible, it’s a diverse and spectacular few kilometres.

The 'View' from Fortescue Falls, Dales Gorge
The ‘View’ from Fortescue Falls

The rocks and ledges that had first given way to the river and trees. Now they gave way to a series of cascades as we headed towards Fortescue Falls.

We negotiated the treacherous and slippery stepping stones across the river.  Then we climbed the natural rock layer steps and stairs to the top of the falls.  And then it was time for lunch – and a show!

With no bars or nightclubs within cooee, the falls and pool below had become an alternative outback meat market.

This walk definitely wasn’t for the faint-hearted as scantily clad travellers cavorted, strutted and posed with all their wares out on display!

The young man who climbed the amphitheatre’s rocky walls to take photos wasn’t necessarily showing off.

Not to me, anyway, although he seemed not to be plagued by the vertigo I would have suffered in his place.

Spot the Tourist!
Spot the Tourist!

But proving he was no one trick pony, I inadvertently captured him in a similar pose the next day at Joffre Falls.  Want to see him again?  Check out the link at the bottom of the post!

Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

Time out for a swim

A little further up the river, we detoured to popular swimming spot the Fern Pool. En route to the clear, blue water and white bodies fresh from the cooler Northern Hemisphere climes, fig trees sprawl over the mossy rocks and ferns grow in the grottos. Fig leaves are optional …

Fig Trees near Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Fig Trees near Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

Then it’s a steep climb up the track out of the gorge to the Falls carpark.

It’s possible my red face, gasping for air and frequent ‘photo’ stops showed the descending tour group what they had to look forward to after seeing the falls up close!  There are spectacular views of the falls from the vantage point above the trailhead if anyone wants to chicken out!

Fortescue Falls from Above, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
Fortescue Falls from Above, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

To complete the loop, we followed the return path along the Gorge Rim track back to Three Ways Lookout.  The tremendous view over the falls and river SO far below showed us where we were actually walking not long before.

Dales Gorge from above on the Gorge Rim Walk, Karijini National Park
Dales Gorge from above on the Gorge Rim Walk, Karijini National Park

Back to Camp

The Karijini Visitors Centre, set amongst yet another awesome landscape does a roaring trade in $2 hot showers.  Incomprehensibly, it was under threat from a cash-strapped government looking for mining royalties when we visited. After a few hours on the trail the shower is a perfect interlude before returning to the Dales Campground.  There you’ll find yet another scenic landscape with a late afternoon glow.  The light turned the WAY beyond RED rocks into a shade I don’t think I’ve ever seen before.

View from Three Ways Lookout, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park
View from Three Ways Lookout, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park

The plague of fears (heights, injury, death) I’d had at the start of this excellent walk faded in the afterglow of achievement.  We settled back into our comfy chairs for a meal from the best little café in Australia (see link below).

Dales Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
Dales Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

Maybe there WAS a place for this coward at Karijini after all.

We were done with Dales Gorge.

Gorge Rim Walk, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
Gorge Rim Walk, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

For now.

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The Incredible “Icebergs” of Geikie Gorge! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/01/the-incredible-icebergs-of-geikie-gorge/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/01/the-incredible-icebergs-of-geikie-gorge/#comments Thu, 03 Jan 2013 02:17:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=81 NEW from RedzAustralia!

‘Look out for the cat snakes on the rock ledges,’ our guide warned. ‘We saw one stalking a bird the other evening’. CAT Snakes? ‘But don’t take my word for it – I failed the snake identification exam!’ she laughed. Pilchard and I exchanged glances. The previous day a gaggle of grey nomads had shown us a photo of the[...]

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Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia
Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia

‘Look out for the cat snakes on the rock ledges,’ our guide warned. ‘We saw one stalking a bird the other evening’.

Geikie Gorge Rock
Geikie Gorge Rock

CAT Snakes?

‘But don’t take my word for it – I failed the snake identification exam!’ she laughed. Pilchard and I exchanged glances. The previous day a gaggle of grey nomads had shown us a photo of the ‘Python’* they’d seen – they’d virtually stood over it to get their photos – on the gorge track.

Probably just as well they hadn’t realised it was a King Brown** …

‘Oh look! There’s a crocodile,’ the guide continued, turning the boat and steering straight for the magnificent limestone walls of Geikie*** Gorge.

Crocodiles?

Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia
Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia

White, weathered rock towered high above us as the cruise boat floated under massive ledges, pocked with holes and opening into amazing caverns dripping with jagged edges carved into glittering icicles.

The water rippled and flung the harsh Kimberley sunshine against the glistening limestone crystals. And with the dry season and water level dropping, the water-worn striations of the massive rocky walls appeared to melt into the river.

Replace the penguins and seals with snakes and crocodiles – and Geikie Gorge is the closest thing to an iceberg I’ll probably ever see in Australia!

On the mainland, anyway.

Rocky Walls at Geikie Gorge, Western Australia
Rocky Walls at Geikie Gorge, Western Australia

C’mon … you didn’t think the Outback had any REAL icebergs, did you??

The red rock’s a bit of a giveaway too …

When in flood – which it is every few years – the Fitzroy River rises to 26+ metres above the original crossing, and flows at up to 300,000 metres³ per second, making it one of Australia’s largest.

The effects of this volume of water on the variously coloured soft-ish limestone of the gorge walls could be clearly seen as the cruise boat floated close to the cliffs – all that’s left of the Devonian reef system that once surrounded the vast inland sea that is now the Kimberley region.

Fitzroy River, Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia
Fitzroy River, Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia

Passing the end point of the snake-free walk we’d completed the previous day, we approached the Western Wall, glowing in the early morning sun. According to our guide, the Kimberley summer (Nov-March) is fierce and intense, with the temperature regularly topping 38°C (~110°+ F) by 9am, also the time of the year when flooding is most likely.

Western Wall, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia
Western Wall, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia

But happily these extremes weren’t apparent during our July 2012 visit, with the morning temperature so chilly for our 8am cruise that our guide was all rugged up. And poking fun at the Grey Nomads – most of the tour group – for doing the same.

Eastern Wall, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia
Eastern Wall, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia

‘Aren’t you all from Melbourne?’ she asked to quite a few nods.

‘And isn’t it cold AS down there?’ More nods.

‘So why are you all wearing jackets HERE?’

Watching the group embarking onto the barge-like watercraft that cruise the gorge during the winter months had almost been worth the ticket price – exceptionally good value as it was.

Call me weird, but did I really need water, extra sunscreen and snacks for a cruise lasting an hour in single-digit early morning temperatures? And if I really thought I DID need them, would I have left them in the car?? AND … even if we’d been travelling with 2 or 3 other couples, I’d probably have survived the hour without sitting next to them …

But finally, the fidgeting, frowning and fussing were over and we swung out into the river, immediately banishing any thoughts we might have entertained that experiencing the gorge from yesterday’s walk along the western edge was as good as being on the cruise.

Eastern Wall from the Western Wall walk, Geikie Gorge
Eastern Wall from the Western Wall walk, Geikie Gorge

While the river cuts a swathe between the excellent Fitzroy Crossing River Lodge campground and township, there’s no real clue from the surrounding countryside that the gorge exists. But at the end of an easy 20 km (12 miles) drive from Fitzroy Crossing, between Halls Creek and Derby on the Great Northern Highway and closest town to the gorge, the pastoral country opens into the rocky reef remnants signalling the start of the gorge system.

Devonian Reef Remnant Rock, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia
Devonian Reef Remnant Rock, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia

The 1½ hour return walk along the western edge was a good introduction to its splendours, especially in the late afternoon when the setting sun lights up the eastern wall.

Crocodile spotting on the riverbanks, admiring wildflowers in the scrub and birdwatching around the sharp rocky formations above the track aside, the scenic walk was uneventful …

… unless you count the three dudes (possibly part of a backpacker plague that freeloaded campground amenities at night****) so busy with their 3-way ‘F%#!ing F*#%er conversation and trying to out-cool each other they failed to see the crocodile sunning itself below …

Theirs was the loss!!

Cruise Boat from the end of the Western Wall walk, Geikie Gorge
Cruise Boat from the end of the Western Wall walk, Geikie Gorge

But quite apart from the entertainment to be had from other gorge visitors, taking a morning boat cruise up the gorge meant a birds-eye view of the Eastern wall’s overhangs then beyond to the Western Wall’s magnificent colours, contours and crags aglow in the morning sun.

Nixon's Head? Or Aussie Politician??
Nixon’s Head? Or Aussie Politician??

The unearthly shapes and swirls weathered into the rock by ongoing inundation sometimes coalesced into familiar lines – Aussies aboard immediately likened the ‘Nixon’s Head’ rocky profile to that of a well known Australian red headed female politician …

Could even this remote spot be an experimental site for subliminal political advertising?

A bump interrupted our smooth return ride down the river. If only our guide hadn’t just told us that while less dangerous than the saltwater variety, freshwater crocodiles actually HAVE been known to attack!

‘I hit that stump EVERY time,’ our delightful guide muttered. Another contribution – part of a community system of forfeits and fines – to the local football team’s annual excursion fund!

Western Wall from the Fitzroy River, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia
Western Wall from the Fitzroy River, Geikie Gorge, Western Australia

‘At the rate we’re going with the swear jar, we’ll be sending them to Disneyland,’ she chuckled. ‘And then we’ll start raising money to bring them home again.’

Egret at Geikie Gorge, Kimberley, Western Australia
Egret at Geikie Gorge, Kimberley, Western AustraliaEgret at Geikie Gorge, Kimberley, Western Australia

As we disembarked – not nearly as diverting OR time consuming as boarding an hour before had been – our experience of Geikie Gorge over for this year, we vowed to one day return and take the sunset cruise.

After all, it’s not often you get to cruise a Devonian reef system.

Or see an Aussie-style iceberg!

* Python= non-venemous

** King Brown = Deadly!

*** Geikie pronounced ‘Geeky’

**** According to the campground caretaker!

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Geikie Gorge Rock, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia
Geikie Gorge Rock, via Fitzroy Crossing, Western Australia

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1000 words about … Gorges! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/1000-words-about-gorges/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/1000-words-about-gorges/#comments Sun, 16 Sep 2012 19:10:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=112 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Reflections at Glen Helen Gorge, Central Australia, Northern Territory     The rugged red rocks that make up the natural wonderland of Central Australia have spawned thousands of photos – many of which reside in the depths of my memory cards. And there most of them shall stay … In 2004 on our first visit to Glen Helen gorge deep[...]

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Reflections at Glen Helen Gorge, Central Australia, Northern Territory
 
 
The rugged red rocks that make up the natural wonderland of Central Australia have spawned thousands of photos – many of which reside in the depths of my memory cards.

And there most of them shall stay …

In 2004 on our first visit to Glen Helen gorge deep in the heart of the fabulous West MacDonnell Ranges, we nearly took a scenic helicopter flight to see the sights. BUT … sadly, the professional crew shooting an advertisement took precedence!!

Earlier this year, we again headed west of Alice Springs to the towering red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge. And again didn’t take the scenic helicopter flight.

BUT … I took this photo instead!
 
One day, we’ll get to see the gorge from the air.  But I’m sure you’ll agree it looks pretty darn good from the ground!!

Have YOU got a great photo or post about a gorge anywhere in the world?

Join in the conversation! Link up by clicking on the ‘Click Here to Enter’ link below and enter your post or photo link and follow the prompts.  Link your post or photo back here so other readers can find it!

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What Does a Frenchman wear under his Sarong?! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/what-does-a-frenchman-wear-under-his-sarong/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/what-does-a-frenchman-wear-under-his-sarong/#comments Thu, 06 Sep 2012 05:56:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=115 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Most people know what a traditional Scotsman wears under his kilt*. But far fewer people know what a Frenchman wears under his sarong! I’d never given this tragic gap in my knowledge any consideration whatsoever – I mean, who associates Frenchmen with sarongs? But if this vexed question HAD been keeping me awake at night, I certainly wouldn’t have expected[...]

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The Charles Knife Road Canyons, Exmouth, Western Australia
The Charles Knife Road Canyons, Exmouth, Western Australia

Most people know what a traditional Scotsman wears under his kilt*.

But far fewer people know what a Frenchman wears under his sarong!

The Tip of North West Cape, Exmouth, Western Australia
The Tip of North West Cape, Exmouth, Western Australia

I’d never given this tragic gap in my knowledge any consideration whatsoever – I mean, who associates Frenchmen with sarongs?

But if this vexed question HAD been keeping me awake at night, I certainly wouldn’t have expected to find the answer on top of a mountain overlooking the gorges along the Charles Knife road south of Western Australia’s Exmouth!

Eastern Cape Range National Park Gorges, Western Australia
Eastern Cape Range National Park Gorges, Western Australia

Although perhaps the narrow peninsula of the North West Cape with its own ecosystem and weather patterns, and the amazing diversity of the World Heritage Ningaloo Marine Park and Cape Range National Park invites the unexpected.

And in stark contrast to the magnificent western beaches and gorges, we certainly didn’t expect the scenic grandeur of the Cape’s eastern lookouts, scattered along the narrow, rocky, dusty, steep and horribly exposed ridge-top road of the Cape Range anticline.

The road to the summit, Cape Range National Park, Exmouth WA
The road to the summit, Cape Range National Park, Exmouth WA

A road WAAAAY more suited to a Land Rover 4WD than a more conventional vehicle like ours.

And even less to the van struggling up the incline behind us as we carefully negotiated the narrow, single lane on the knife-edge ridge!

Spot the Wallaby!
Spot the Wallaby!

With ‘Tracy’ emblazoned on the bonnet, and its three occupants in classic feet-on-the-dashboard travelling pose, it closed the gap between us and pulled out to overtake.

Strangely unwilling to take part in a random murder/suicide pact with Tracy’s unknown (to us) occupants, Pilchard sped down the middle of the road with the van in hot pursuit.

But finally, superior tyres, aerodynamics and handling won out and we pulled away.

The rough, rugged and rocky track to the final lookout had deterred the less adventurous, but a deserted combi van painted all over with symbols and random Australian place names had made the trip before us.

Wallaby in the Charles Knife Gorge
There it is!

Looking around, it became apparent that without an 8km hike, the magnificent views from the road below would not be matched at THIS spot.

As we searched in vain for a better lookout spot, two figures emerged from the rugged rocky area below the track. The leader, saronged, shirtless, tanned and dreadlocked greeted us in perfectly broken English.

‘Did you walk to the lookout?’ I asked, taking in the bony outline of his clavicles in that twilight zone somewhere between ‘lean’ and ’emaciated’.

He smiled and gestured to his bare feet. ‘Non, madame. I have not the shoes,’ his beautiful accent a clear indicator of nationality.

Of course. What was I thinking? A barefoot hiker clad in a sarong – and a ‘do rag’ holding back the dreads??

His taciturn companion, also shirtless, but terminally cool with trousers slung so low his family jewels were in serious danger of being rendered useless by the spinifex and thorny shrubbery at the exact right height to do serious damage, lurked behind looking disinterested.

Perhaps we were too old and/or unfashionable to be worthy of his consideration. Or maybe he didn’t speak English.

Overlooking Exmouth Gulf, Cape Range National Park
Overlooking Exmouth Gulf, Cape Range National Park

The leader continued. ‘We went to the cave,’ he gestured vaguely behind him. ‘It is not very big so we come back.’

Noise erupted behind us as Tracy pulled into the carpark. Low pants slunk off towards the combi.

‘Is the lookout far from here?’ I asked, wondering what exactly Sarong man and Low pants had been up to in the cave.

‘We did not go there,’ he replied, teeth white against his tan.

Noise erupted behind us as Low Pants and Tracy’s occupants greeted each other in the manner of explorers in a land of aliens discovering they are at last amongst their own kind. Celebrating their new friendship with a blast of rap music gave us our cue and we turned to leave.

Maybe Low pants was right and we were just too dull and boring for words …

Charles Knife Road Gorges, Exmouth, Western Australia
Charles Knife Road Gorges, Exmouth, Western Australia

‘I have not the shoes,’ the Frenchman repeated. ‘And also,’ he gestured to the sarong slung low around his hips, ‘I have not the pants!’

You heard it here first!

Want more information?

* Click HERE if you’re still in the dark!
Canyons at Cape Range National Park and World Heritage Area, Exmouth, Western Australia
Canyons at Cape Range National Park and World Heritage Area, Exmouth, Western Australia

 

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Aussie ABC – G is for Gorge https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/12/aussie-abc-g-is-for-gorge/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/12/aussie-abc-g-is-for-gorge/#comments Sat, 03 Dec 2011 19:48:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=167 NEW from RedzAustralia!

  Gorging yourself silly in OZ doesn’t mean what you’re probably thinking it means.   For a start, I’m not even talking about food – although you haven’t lived until you’ve eaten at a fine OZ bakery – but I digress! No, I’m talking about gorges. OZ is riddled with them. And in some parts, you can’t swing a long-tailed[...]

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Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia*
Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia*

Gorging yourself silly in OZ doesn’t mean what you’re probably thinking it means.

 

Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory
Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory

For a start, I’m not even talking about food – although you haven’t lived until you’ve eaten at a fine OZ bakery – but I digress!

Cania Gorge, Queensland
Cania Gorge, Queensland

No, I’m talking about gorges. OZ is riddled with them. And in some parts, you can’t swing a long-tailed goanna without hitting one – to the point where being a tourist is tantamount to being all gorged out …

Not that that’s a bad thing – there’s something about gorges that draws you down the depths in a sometimes taxing reverse-mountain-climb! At the bottom, there’s another world that just invites you to rock-hop, swim or canoe along the inevitable river bed, explore the geographic features – rocks, waterfalls, caves – and photograph the rim against the sun. Or is that just me?
Lawn Hill Gorge Rim
Lawn Hill Gorge Rim

It’d be a rare person who’s visited all the gorges in OZ – I’m not even close!

But I’ve explored quite a few over the years, so here’s a starter menu of 10 random ravines recommended by Red!
They’re not the only – or necessarily the best – in OZ.
But you can’t go wrong with these!

 

 

Hiking the floor of this remote outback gorge isn’t an option. But hire a canoe and dodge the freshwater crocodiles and file snakes (I nearly hit one with my paddle) before using the portage to get to the upper gorge! Swim with giant catfish, bathe in the falls or hike to the rim for the reddest rock you’ll see almost anywhere!
Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Kings Canyon, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Kings Canyon, Central Australia, Northern Territory
This magnificent gorge, often overshadowed by the (relatively) nearby – and better known – Uluru, starred in the OZ modern classic film ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert’.
While Pilchard and I weren’t tempted to re-enact the famous ‘co*k in a frock on a rock’ scene where three drag queens ‘do’ the gorge, the rigorous circuit track rewards hikers with some of the most magnificent views in OZ!
RED Rock Walls at Kings Canyon, Northern Territory
RED Rock Walls at Kings Canyon, Northern Territory

3. Cania Gorge NP, via Monto, Queensland

 

Cave, Cania Gorge
Cave, Cania Gorge

Impressive walks through stunning scenery, Central Queensland’s Cania gorge has it all – killer hikes, remnant rainforest, rocky walls, fantastic views, bushranger caves and a mighty dam nearby for fishing.

It’s been too long since we visited this fabulous spot with kangaroos and potoroos in the campground, and platypus in the creek.
The spine-tinglingly bloodcurdling shriek that rent the night air wasn’t a woman being murdered either – that’s exactly what Barking Owl sounds like!

 

With any luck, the heavy rain that ended Victoria’s 10 year drought in early 2011 and closed this spectacular gorge hasn’t caused permanent damage.
Rocks and Red at Golton Gorge, Northern Grampians, Victoria*
Rocks and Red at Golton Gorge, Northern Grampians, Victoria*

A favourite northern Grampians hike, Peregine Falcon’s wild, sad call ringing out high above the rugged river bed always gives me goosebumps.

In a good way. If I’d known the last time we walked the circuit track might be the last time we EVER walked it, we’d have taken it more slowly – and taken more photos!
Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges NP, SA
Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges NP, SA
The granddaddy of them all, a journey through magnificent Brachina Gorge in Outback South Australia is like tripping in a time machine through aeons of geological activity caused by weathering, erosion and time.
The awesome scenery is pretty spectacular as well – with an almost unbeatable Scenic Public Toilet!

 

6. Trephina Gorge, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Trephina Gorge
Trephina Gorge
Red hair, white sand, black clothing, blue skies, green foliage, red rock. What’s not to love about this photographer’s fantasy in the depths of Central Australia?
Red, White, Green, Blue, Black at Trephina Gorge, Central Australia, Northern Territory*
Red, White, Green, Blue, Black at Trephina Gorge, Central Australia, Northern Territory*
One of several gorges in the region, Trephina Gorge Nature Park epitomises the Outback’s harsh, unforgiving landscape while emphasising its rugged, wild beauty.
Carnarvon Gorge Lookout, Queensland
Carnarvon Gorge Lookout, Queensland

 

Carnarvon Gorge Rim, Queensland
Carnarvon Gorge Rim, Queensland

One of the better opportunities for that valued rocky-walls-against-blue-sky shot, Carnarvon Gorge’s walking trail is reasonably easy going – if you don’t count the length ! A ~20 km round trip – if you don’t count the detours to chasms, gullies and Indigenous art!! Platypus in the creek and a spectacular setting put this amazing gorge well and truly on the tourist trail.

 

 

Except for an hour in the middle of the day, this deep, narrow gorge near Alice Springs in Central Australia is mostly in shadow. But when the sun’s directly overhead, the magnificence of the rich red glow on the steep, rocky walls towering high, high above is unparalleled!
Standley Chasm, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Red banks at Redbanks, South Australia

 

The megafauna once roaming this region now sadly long absent, there’s no distraction from the magnificent scenery of this spectacular spot. Exploring the ever-eroding red river banks (yes, the name is SO imaginative!), and walking the gorge shows the savage beauty of this untamed, arid landscape. But my favourite bit? When Red-capped Robin comes bob-bob-bobbin along!!
Redbanks, via Burra, South Australia
Katherine Gorge

 

The achingly beautiful and haunting sound of our Aboriginal guide’s didgeridoo echoing through a cave and across the water is a highlight of this guided tour – the only way to see awesome Katherine Gorge, deep in the heart of the Northern Territory. Exploring this ancient and mystic landscape is a privilege not to be missed!
There’s that sky shot again!  This time at Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory*

And these are just 10 of the gorgeous gorges (c’mon! you KNEW I had to throw that in!) downunder in OZ to which I’ve been! Imagine what’s in store in the parts I haven’t visited yet?!?! Don’t know about you, but I can’t wait!!!

NP = National Park

 

*Pix by Pilchard

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #9 – Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges SA https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/12/australias-scenic-public-toilets-9-brachina-gorge-flinders-ranges-sa/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/12/australias-scenic-public-toilets-9-brachina-gorge-flinders-ranges-sa/#comments Fri, 03 Dec 2010 07:38:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=266 NEW from RedzAustralia!

A public toilet in Teamsters Campground??  Sounds like something the Village People could be proud of!!  Or is that just me … Go west – or at least to the western end of Brachina Gorge, deep in the heart of South Australia’s magnificent Flinders Ranges!  Teamsters Campground is the perfect spot from which to explore the pre-historic strata layers of the gorge’s geological trail more[...]

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A public toilet in Teamsters Campground??  Sounds like something the Village People could be proud of!!  Or is that just me …

Go west – or at least to the western end of Brachina Gorge, deep in the heart of South Australia’s magnificent Flinders Ranges!  Teamsters Campground is the perfect spot from which to explore the pre-historic strata layers of the gorge’s geological trail more closely.

The conveniences are, in turn, the perfect spot from which to reflect on the rugged (hhhmmm… another possible Village People connection!), natural beauty within which the campground is situated.

No denying it, whichever way you turn, the views are AMAAAAAAAAZING!!

But you’ll have to come out of the bathroom to see them!!

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OZ Top Spot #4 – Porcupine Gorge NP, QLD https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/12/oz-top-spot-4-porcupine-gorge-np-qld/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/12/oz-top-spot-4-porcupine-gorge-np-qld/#comments Tue, 30 Nov 2010 18:13:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=267 NEW from RedzAustralia!

We only made three mistakes when we visited Porcupine Gorge National Park in Northern Queensland’s Outback. The wild, natural beauty of this spectacular gorge is a short drive (by outback standards) north of nearby Hughenden – with various points of interest along the way outlined in a self-drive tour guide available from the ‘Flinders Discovery Centre’. The town of Hughenden[...]

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We only made three mistakes when we visited Porcupine Gorge National Park in Northern Queensland’s Outback. The wild, natural beauty of this spectacular gorge is a short drive (by outback standards) north of nearby Hughenden – with various points of interest along the way outlined in a self-drive tour guide available from the ‘Flinders Discovery Centre’.

The town of Hughenden will be instantly recognisable to any dinosaur aficionado worth her/his salt as home of ‘Muttaburrasaurus langdoni’ and ‘Hughie’ a life sized skeletal replica in the Centre! The proud ‘dinosaur country’ legacy is kind of unmistakable, given ‘Mutt’ – another unique reminder (and fabulous photo opportunity) in the main street!

But I digress …
The first Porcupine Gorge sighting (above) is from a viewing platform high above the gorge – once you’ve negotiated the car park with camper van couples so clearly overcome by the natural beauty they’ve retired within to experience more of nature’s delights, that is! Well, that was the case during our July 2009 visit!! There’s no gorge walk from this point – it’s purely for your viewing pleasure, with the main day area and camp ground a little further down the road.

For reasons I still can’t really explain, we assumed the 2.4 kilometre (~1.5 miles) return walking trail down the gorge would a) be pretty easy, given its short length (?!) and b) end at the bottom. This was Mistake #1.

So, unfettered by such necessities as food and water (Mistake #2), we tripped lightly down the trail, pausing only to gasp at the amazing views. At the bottom, to our simultaneous delight AND horror, the end of the trail was the beginning of the gorge, and able to be explored both down the rocky river bed, and up to the magnificent ‘pyramid’ formation!

What kind of travellers don’t let little things like absence of food and water and hot sun impede their exploration? Bl**dy idiots, of course!! BUT … the extra 2-3 kilometres we walked along the gorge bed (Mistake #3) was so magnificent we forgot our foolishness. Until it was time to return.
I don’t know how many of those to whom I attributed my VERY frequent stops on the upward trail to ‘admiring the view’ actually believed me. Unfortunately, my beetroot-red face and heart-attack quality puffing and panting were probably a bit of a giveaway … and why are ‘up’ kilometres so much longer than ‘down’ ones??
BUT … I reckon I made many of the much older people who passed me on my tortuous ascent (and humoured my outright lie!) feel so much better about their fitness and abilities.

And with the wonderful benefits of hindsight, we won’t be making those three mistakes again!!

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