Kangaroo Island Bushfires

Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.  

I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. He was telling me about his reaction to the horrific bushfires, started by lightning strikes, that burnt more than 46% of the island’s 440,500 hectares (1,700 square miles) over several weeks of the 2019/2020 Australian summer.  Two lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze, numerous farms and businesses ruined and thousands of animals—both livestock and wildlife—perished.

I knew what he meant.  I had just seen the devastation he was describing for myself from the Bunker Hill observation point that looks out over the coastal plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 square miles), or about 96% of the bushland in the park was destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting sight.  

Kangaroo Island Today

Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands and dense coastal scrub, the rolling hills and plains were open and bare where the understory and low vegetation had been burnt away. In many places, only scorched tree trunks remained, very different to the verdant forests I remembered from my only other visit to Kangaroo Island 15 years earlier.

The bushfires have had devastating environmental, economic and personal consequences for Kangaroo Island’s 4,500-strong population, and have forever separated its history into “before” and “after” the blaze.  Recovery on all fronts has been long, slow and hindered even further by COVID-19 restrictions. 

Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s easy to see why the national park still attracts many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000 annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the bushland’s regeneration is well under way.  A mantle of green is starting to cover the blackened ground and new growth sprouts from the burnt tree trunks.  

The island has become a land of dramatic contrasts. In the forest and farmland, the fire’s trail of destruction can end abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and untouched greenery side by side. Rocks, dunes and land formations are now strikingly bare where ground cover and the understory once hid them. In places, where the flames reached the sea, there is now an eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened vegetation against the island’s signature aquamarine waters.

Visiting the island now is not only a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness its regeneration first hand, but  also to assist community recovery by providing much needed cash flow to affected businesses and tourism operators.

Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced “kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. 

Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi) length is a journey through a stunning wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres (335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched beaches and dune systems, rivers and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant life, fresh regional produce and friendly locals all add to the relaxed island vibe.  Despite the devastation of the fires, the attractions are all still here. A day or two will not be enough to experience everything the island has to offer.

How to get here

The fastest way to reach KI is a 30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres (13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry terminal at Cape Jervis. 

From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis at its south-western tip. Driving from Adelaide gives the option of taking your own vehicle on the ferry, recommended for those who wish to explore the entire island. Caravans, camper trailers and campers can also be taken on the ferry, although tours are available for those without transportation.

My travelling companions and I decided to drive from Adelaide and first explore parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf. As we only had a few hours before our ferry departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s stunning coastline and picturesque inland region wouldn’t be possible. 

Instead, we chose a cross-section of attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s long jetty and red rocky walls above the Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop, in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue waters of Normanville beach; and Second Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.

Backstairs Passage, the strait between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for its rough seas so choosing the best time to cross can be like picking a winning lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our afternoon crossing was a rough one, but not as bad as the morning trip when most of a large school excursion group became violently sea-sick.  

A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy seas can mean a greater chance of spotting ocean-going birds such as shearwaters, petrels and albatross, not usually seen this close to land.  The only trick is to stay upright on deck and hold the binoculars steady as the ferry heaves and rolls through the waves and cross-currents.

Kangaroo Island History

Discovery of stone tools, middens (ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave shelters on KI are proof of Australian Indigenous occupation, thought to pre-date colonial settlement by up to 65,000 years. It is believed that a group of people remained on the island when rising waters separated it from the mainland 10,000 years ago during the last glacial period.  Evidence also indicates they left the island 2,000 – 4,000 years before European colonisation, although it is unclear how or why.

Indigenous people from the mainland knew the island as Karta Pintingga or “Island of the dead”. This is because during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the period in which life was created, a Spirit Ancestor travelled to the island en route to the Milky Way and was followed here by spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.

There is some doubt as to when colonial exploration of KI began. The generally accepted version starts in 1802 when Matthew Flinders landed here while on an expedition to map Australia’s southern coastline for the British Government aboard HMS Investigator.  He unimaginatively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for its many kangaroos, a welcome source of fresh meat.

After leaving the island, the Investigator met French ship Le Geographe, captained by Nicolas Baudin. Although their countries were at war, the two captains exchanged information and later that year, Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline, giving many of its geographic features French names.

However, the discovery of an inscription on a tree in the Cygnet River locality dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat meat” indicates that the island was already known by then. To whom, and for how long is unknown.

Baudin’s crew later met some American sealers aboard the brig Union and passed on details of the island to them. The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began, closely followed by the arrival of whalers.

In 1836, the first free (non-convict) European settlement in Australia was established on KI by the British based South Australian Company.  Faced with many difficulties, most of the colony relocated to the mainland four years later, leaving behind a few settlers whose tenacity and ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are characteristics still evident in the present-day KI community.  

Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for its quality and exported around the world. A variety of industries includes honey from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world; boutique wineries, breweries and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood; eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products; oats and other cereal crops; along with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and beauty products, all available from local outlets and shopfronts.

Penneshaw and the Dudley Peninsula

The ferry docks at the small town of Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern end, a good base for exploring the Dudley Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the peninsula’s natural attractions are a good introduction to life on KI. 

We spent a day exploring the three conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s south-eastern coastline. From mid-May to late October, southern right whales and the occasional humpback whale can be seen from the cliff tops along this section of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s largest animal, can also be seen from the shores, although they are more likely to be found feeding in upwelling zones further offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water rises from the ocean depths.

Baudin Conservation Park, with its coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east of Penneshaw, not to be confused with Baudin Beach to the south-west.

Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby, is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching and canoeing.  There’s a popular camping area where the Chapman River, which flows through the park, enters the ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful sandy beach.

At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost, where South Australia’s first lighthouse was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached museum and walking trails around the cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby conservation park.

Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset over Christmas Cove.  Then take an evening tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula minor) coming ashore on the beaches and cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.

Hog Bay Road follows a string of beaches, including Baudin Beach, south-west from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill, right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where it adjoins the central and western parts of the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’ footsteps and climb the large sand dune, KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views north across Pelican Lagoon to American River and south to Pennington Bay. These days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep climb easier while protecting the fragile dunes beneath.

American River

From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre (6 mi) drive north to the small settlement of American River.  After staying in Penneshaw overnight, we moved here for the remainder of our stay as it offers easier access to the rest of KI’s attractions.

The locality was named in true Aussie style for a group of American sealers who camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon, an ocean inlet which they mistakenly thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus atratus) and other water birds plentiful.  

“Every morning I’d be given a koala to nurse for the day,” Kylie, an accommodation host based in American River, told me. “The next morning I’d be told that the koala I’d been looking after had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.”  She and her husband had only lived on the island a short time before the fires, and even though the American River community wasn’t directly under threat, the smoke was so thick they thought they’d have to leave. They and their neighbours spent some tense nights watching the glow in the sky and hearing horror stories about what was happening at the other end of the island.

Once the fires raged out of control and all visitors had returned to the mainland, Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife rescue centre, set up to care for the influx of injured animals rescued by locals and firefighters.

While exact pre- and post-bushfire numbers are unknown, it is believed that 80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI perished.  About 40% of those treated in the centre were rehabilitated to be released back into the wild, thanks to the tireless work of volunteers and donations from around the world.

The Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge where I was a guest, is located right across the road from the American River inlet.  With comfortable and well-appointed rooms, an excellent restaurant and friendly, helpful staff, it’s also a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. Don’t miss sunrise over the inlet—the colours, reflections and waterbird silhouettes can be stunning.  Afterwards, treat yourself to the wonderful breakfast buffet in the restaurant.

Famous for its seafood, American River’s most well known (and possibly most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood including local oysters, abalini (baby abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish), King George whiting and calamari. 

Just outside town a hiking trail leads to the remains of the town’s historic fish cannery, established around 1890, but abandoned two years later as there was no way to store and keep excess fish. A short drive north-west of town is Redbanks, where multi-coloured cliffs tower above the beach.

KI is home to an endemic subspecies of the critically endangered glossy black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus), and the American River flock can often be seen around the town and nearby bushland. 

Kingscote and North Coast

Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24 mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s largest town and commercial centre. The first free Australian settlement was set up at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with walking trails and historic sites listed on the South Australian Heritage Register. The Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots. Look for sea lions and dolphins in the waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.

Explore the north coast’s secluded beaches from here, including the white sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this region were hit hard by the bushfires, but much of the north-coast, especially the eastern end, is now accessible.

Snellings View, where I was a guest, makes an excellent base from which to discover the delights of the North Coast’s stunning coastal scenery—or just hide away and relax. With magnificent views over Snellings beach and the surrounding farmland from the deck, the open-plan lounge/dining area and both double bedrooms, this luxurious getaway is fully self-contained. Photos from a book produced by the owners show that the bushfires burned right up to the deck.

“I was wearing my mother’s engagement ring and a ring belonging to my late sister that day.  My other jewellery and belongings were obliterated in the fire,” Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing the devastating losses the day that she and her partner lost their home.  

“A year later, I’m still discovering things I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot of photos to Facebook because my hard drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement of living in temporary accommodation without a permanent home to which they can return isn’t easy either.

Priscilla and her partner are now rebuilding, but the process is hampered by the logistics of living on an island. Returning to normal life is still a long way off but the support of the KI community, all of whom have been affected in some way by the fires, has been invaluable.

The South Coast

The South Coast road is known for its nature- and adventure-based attractions.  Although the fire reached the sea here, the stunning colours, white sandy beaches and rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy to see why this beach was declared  best in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s best beach location.  Spend a day swimming, surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking or canoeing the Harriet River which meets the sea at the bay.

Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing. Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat bikes are also on offer by tour companies, with guided walking tours and kayaking also available.

Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be observed from the Visitor Centre viewing platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.

Flinders Chase National Park

From American River, we took the 105 kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the Flinders Chase National Park entrance, taking about 75 minutes. En route, the fire damage became progressively worse until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout mentioned above, where the worst effects of the fire can be seen.

In the far south-west at Cape du Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is intact, a stark contrast with other coastal sections of the park now blackened and burnt.  The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five day trek passing through here, was badly damaged by the fires, but a modified version is now open. It is a rare opportunity to see bushland regeneration firsthand and view open landscapes not previously visible when covered by dense vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also available.

Seals and other Wildlife

From the cape, a boardwalk descends into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets.  By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted almost to extinction for their thick, water repellent pelts.  From 1900, various levels of protection have applied to the islets, and now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine Parks protect the waters these seals call home.

Wildlife is returning to the bushfire zone, although much of the habitat they relied on for food and shelter was destroyed. Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are able to bury themselves underground during bushfires in order to survive.

Weirs Cove

KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable waters have been responsible for over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda, the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives were lost in the surrounding waters. Before road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and visitors—were hoisted from the nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre (300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement via a primitive “flying fox” winching system made of pulleys and ropes.

Remarkable Rocks

Ironically, no vegetation obscures the park’s most well known feature—the Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires. The tumbling pile of fractured granite blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on a large dome of exposed granite above a sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove and the coast-hugging road. A coating of bright orange lichen renders some of the rocks even more bizarre. 

Featuring in films such as “Napoleon” (1995), and “The December Boys” (2007), the rocks have also starred in countless home movies and social media posts. Many visitors have their photo taken under the “Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling above the rocky base.  Exploring the odd shapes and textures of the rocks can take a while if you’ve got a camera, and watching other people exploring the rocks can take even longer.

Although these were the only park attractions open to the public during our stay, I wasn’t disappointed.  Seeing the park’s recovery firsthand replaced the despair I had felt when watching the horrifying blaze on the news night after night.  I’m already looking forward to returning once more attractions have reopened.

Come to Kangaroo Island

Indisputably, the close-knit KI community is known for its resilience and courage, and for working together to preserve and protect the island they love.  After seeing the beauty that remains and regeneration in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent that this island is a special place. 

While full recovery may take many more years, don’t leave it too long to experience its wonders.  Kangaroo Island’s attractions await!

Want MORE?

• More about Kangaroo Island HERE
• More about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE
• The original version of this article first appeared in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2021. For more interesting travel stories check out GlobeRovers HERE.

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The post Beauty and Bushfires: Exploring Kangaroo Island, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The Limestone Coast is WAY too big for one blog post – that’s why you’ll find Part One of my Limestone Coast Beginners Guide HERE!

In Part One, there’s 6 SUPER cool natural Limestone Coast attractions close to Mount Gambier – best place for the amazing volcanic activity that helped make the region what it is today!

In Part Two (below) I’ve got 6 RED HOT Limestone Coast things to do along the coast, in the Southern Ports Highway towns Beachport and Robe, and further south in the Southern Rock Lobster capital and largest lobster fleet of Australia – Port MacDonnell, my personal favourite!

So if you’re ready for wild and rugged coastline; amazing sunsets; heritage trails and hikes; endless deserted beaches; bizarre rock formations; scenic drives; and some AWESOME lighthouses, you’ve come to the right spot!

Just sit back, relax and discover 6 MORE wonderful Limestone Coast attractions!

1 South OZ’s Southernmost Point

Cape Northumberland‘s rugged rocks and sensational scenery, with nothing between you and Antarctica except 5700 km (that’s a LOT of miles!) of Great Southern Ocean is as far south as is possible in South Australia!

By day, explore the Heritage and Nature Park for eroded rocks in fantastic shapes; magnificent coastal scenery north to Cape Douglas and south to Port MacDonnell; and a short walk to the site of the old lighthouse – it’s REALLY obvious why it was moved back up behind the point!

The shape of the Cape is perfect for watching sunrise (so they tell me), but I caught a killer sunset over the sea instead! After sunset, wait on the viewing platform until it’s dark for the Little Penguins (Eudyptula Minor) – only penguin to breed in Australia – to come home from eating their body weight in fish.

You’ll even get to see them if you’re smart enough to bring a torch or spotlight that actually works – like we didn’t!!

Cape Northumberland is a great place to explore – take the drive north along the coast to Finger Point for beaches, surf breaks, part of the Admella Shipwreck Trail (see below) and a lookout back to Mount Gambier. There’s even a signboard with the bizarre story of how this rugged part of the coastline became a firing range!

2 Do a Lighthouse Crawl

There’s a LOT of shipwreck sites along the Limestone coast so it’s no wonder there’s also a high concentration of lighthouses!

Start at Cape Northumberland (see #1). One of the noticeboards tells the tragic tale of Ben Germein, Cape Northumberland’s first Lighthouse Keeper, and don’t miss the walking trail I mentioned above!

A little further north, the Cape Banks (named for botanist Joseph Banks) Lighthouse near Carpenter Rocks at the southern end of Canunda National Park is such a toxic shade of orange it hurt my eyes. It’s also part of the Admella Discovery Trail (see below) and the coastal scenery is stunning.

Then it’s 45 minutes or so to Beachport at the northern end of Rivoli Bay – walk up to the lighthouse overlooking Cape Martin and Penguin Island or view it from several vantage points along the Bowman Scenic Drive (see below).

Robe, about half an hour further north on Guichen Bay, has a VERY modern lighthouse on a VERY rugged stretch of coast with another 30 shipwrecks. But it’s overshadowed somewhat by the VERY distinctive Cape Dombey Obelisk! The Obelisk was used to store rockets – essential for getting life lines to ships wrecked in the bay.

Head north and go right past the Cape Jaffa turnoff, because the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse is now at Kingston SE! It’s a distinctive and decorative little lighthouse on the esplanade amidst the houses and holiday shacks and it’s open during school holidays!

The next lighthouse is 183 km further north at Point Malcolm, near Narrung on the cusp of Lake Albert and Lake Alexandrina. Technically, it’s not on the Limestone Coast, but it IS the Southern Hemisphere’s only inland lighthouse!

(BONUS: Read more about the Narrung lighthouse and other notable South Australian Lighthouses HERE!)

3 Walk the Shipwreck Coast at Robe

The Limestone coast is wild and rugged! A walk in high winds with lashings of rain really adds to the atmosphere, the coast is STILL wild and rugged even when it’s fine! But there’s more than rugged rocks to see along the coast and Robe has one of the BEST selections of walks.

There’s an excellent hiking trail from the Breakwater to the Obelisk at Cape Dombey, then along the cliffs – there’s the lighthouse, water-sculpted rocks out to sea, the Blowhole and the old Gaol Ruins.

From the Robe marina, follow the coast track past Town Beach and along the cliffs to Fox’s Beach and the Outlet. Or take a walk out the back of Robe to Beacon Hill Lookout for a panoramic view over the town.

For a change of pace, head out of town to Little Dip Conservation Park and take a walk all the way around Freshwater Lake, with different woodland habitats and beautiful spring wildflowers. And snakes … even though I didn’t see any on this trip

4 Drive the Limestone Coast!

Follow the Admella Discovery Trail‘s 21 markers that tell the sad story of the SS Admella, wrecked off Carpenter Rocks in 1859 with 89 deaths. But it’s not just a tale of South Australia’s worst maritime disaster, the 130 km (~80 miles) self-drive tour is a great way to discover lots of Limestone Coast attractions!

For a cool coast experience without the history lesson, take the Bowman Scenic Drive from Beachport. What’s NOT to love about this awesome drive with lookouts, surf and fishing beaches, blowholes, rock formations and the Pool of Siloam – 7 times saltier than the sea?

PS There’s a cool Scenic Loo there too!!

5 Explore the Coorong

It’s about 130 km (~80 miles) from one end of the Coorong to the other – making it Australia’s longest, thinnest National Park! If you’re travelling to or from Adelaide, leave enough time to stop and take a look because it’s one of the more unusual Limestone Coast attractions, or make an early start if you’re planning a day trip!

The string of salt lakes separated from the ocean by the massive dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula is formed by the Murray-Darling – Australia’s biggest river system – as it flows into Lakes Alexandrina and Albert before reaching the sea up the coast at Goolwa.

The Princes Highway runs alongside the Coorong between Kingston SE and Meningie at the northern end. Other than the natural attractions there’s the Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse at Salt Creek where signs and leftover machinery mark Australia’s first oil exploration site with some interesting facts about the area. Take the walk from the roadhouse, or drive the coastal loop for more historic remains and to see the waterways and dunes up close.

Drive through to the sea from 42 mile crossing – walk the last part if you’re not in a 4WD – or via a couple of other 4WD only crossing points. Take the track in to Jack Point to see one of Australia’s largest Pelican breeding grounds. Find a quiet spot for fishing – Coorong Mullet is a South Australian delicacy – but if you’re out of luck, head back to the Roadhouse for a Coorong Mullet burger!

(BONUS: Read about the Little Loo the Government Forgot at Salt Creek HERE!)

6 A Day at the Beach

Limestone Coast attractions include so many beaches choosing just one could be tricky! So visit a few from my selected favourites – or discover your own!

For deserted beaches choose anywhere between the amazing stretch of deserted beach behind the coast car park at Piccaninnie Ponds (see Part 1), the collection of holiday shacks and a Scenic Loo at another long stretch of deserted beach at Brown’s Bay, the Port MacDonnell safe swimming beach protected by the breakwater, and several surfing and swimming beaches en route to Finger Point north of Cape Northumberland.

For wild and windswept, try anything in Canunda National Park (see Part 1) north of Carpenter Rocks, or play it safe at Southend‘s spectacular protected swimming beach where the national park ends.

For a dash of danger, head to the other end of Rivoli Bay, where Beachport’s Bowman Scenic Drive beaches have jagged rocks and undertows – but are perfect for fishing, especially at the Salmon Hole!

For a popular holiday spot, take the coast road from Beachport and Robe and stop at Nora Creina beach. Further north, Kingston SE‘s beaches on Lacepede Bay are perfect for swimming and fishing, and for a cool beach 4WD experience, head 20 km north of Kingston for a LONG stretch of beach at the Granites, a random collection of boulders!

There are a LOT more Limestone Coast Attractions – like wineries; parks and reserves; historic buildings and museums; bird- and wildlife watching; and dining experiences – but we’re out of time! And that’s the fun of exploring, anyway – visit my 12 Limestone Coast attractions and I’ll guarantee you’ll discover more regional delights that’ll make it even more special for YOU!

Limestone Coast FAST FACTS:

WHERE: South East South Australia, from Meningie and the Coorong National Park at its northern tip to Port MacDonnell in the south. Mount Gambier is the largest centre.

HOW to get there: Self-drive from Adelaide to Mount Gambier (~450 km); or Melbourne to Mount Gambier (~450-550 km) – distances vary depending on route taken. Coach from Adelaide or Melbourne. Fly from Adelaide or Melbourne. Hire cars available.

WHEN: All year round. Average maximum temperatures range from 14°C in winter to 30°C in summer.

WHERE to stay: There’s a range of accommodation throughout the Limestone Coast – campgrounds, caravan parks, motels, apartments, B&Bs etc. We stayed in Mount Gambier, Port MacDonnell and Robe which were central to the attractions we wanted to see.

Want MORE?

• The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Part One
• Limestone Coast, South Australia
• More Limestone Coast Photos on Flickr HERE

The post The Ultimate Beginners Guide to Limestone Coast Attractions – Part Two! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I’m a lighthouse lover from way back. In fact, I was a lighthouse lover WAY before I became a loo lover! There’s something about those clean lines with the RED and (all too often) the white against a dramatic coastline and sky that makes my shutter-button finger itch!

It’s itched so much over the years that I’ve got too many lighthouse shots for one post, even when I exclude all most of the ones with a list to the left. Or right.

So even though this isn’t the definitive SA lighthouse guide here’s my pick of 10 of the best South Australian Lighthouses!

1 Cape Banks Lighthouse, Carpenters Rocks

This rugged and remote stretch of shipwreck-strewn coastline at the southern end of Canunda National Park near the southern end of South Australia is so wildly beautiful it’d take a special kind of lighthouse to really stand out.

Maybe that’s why this one’s painted in Toxic-Waste-Orange?

MORE: Red Nomad OZ visits Carpenters Rocks

2 Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, Kingston SE*

Where is the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse? Wait, let me guess – you’d be thinking ‘Cape Jaffa’, right?

WRONG!

Nowadays, instead of warning ships away from the Margaret Brock Reef, its original location off Cape Jaffa, 21 km away by road, this little lighthouse peeks out above the holiday shacks, houses and Norfolk Island Pines on the Kingston SE foreshore.

It’s not operating as a lighthouse any more, but it DOES double as a lookout over the awesome panorama of Lacepede Bay.

*SE = South East to distinguish it from another SA town, Kingston-on-Murray

MORE: Kingston SE and the Limestone Coast

3 Point Malcolm Lighthouse, Narrung

I’ve only been to the Point Malcolm lighthouse once. On a narrow spit of land separating Lake Albert from Lake Alexandrina near the end of the massive Murray-Darling River system, it’s the only inland lighthouse in the Southern Hemisphere!

So I can’t imagine why I didn’t take a photo on my pre-digital-camera visit many years ago. But that’ll explain the completely gratuitous photo of sunrise over Lake Alexandrina instead of the lighthouse pic you were expecting

Stop Press!

Kathy from 50 Shades of Age has kindly given me permission to use her photo of the Point Malcolm lighthouse at Narrung!  Thank you Kathy – one day I’ll return and actually take a photo myself

MORE: Camping at Narrung

4 Cape du Coudic Lighthouse, Kangaroo Island

With 14 shipwrecks come to grief on the rocks, reefs and islands below this stunning sandstone lighthouse on Kangaroo Island’s south-western cape, the Flinders Chase coastline punches above its weight in the death-and-destruction stakes.

That makes lugging 2000+ blocks of stone AND all equipment up a 92 metre high (300 foot) cliff by foot and flying fox in order to build it SO worth it!

MORE: Kangaroo Island

5 Port Adelaide Lighthouse, Port Adelaide

Is this the most well-travelled little lighthouse in OZ?

In 1869 it stood at the mouth of the Port River, before being relocated to the nearby Wonga Shoal off Semaphore Jetty in 1901.

In 1986, after a long stint on South Neptune Island off the Eyre Peninsula even further away, it was restored and re-built on the Port Dock!

Just down the road and round the corner from the South Australian Maritime Museum!

MORE: Port Adelaide Maritime Museum

6 Troubridge Island Lighthouse, Troubridge Island

What makes the archetypal lighthouse? Let’s see. Classic colours. Striking silhouette. Killer view from the top. Lighthousekeeper’s cottage. Only accessible by boat. On a deserted island.

If that’s what it takes, then this splendid structure on a tiny island off Troubridge Shoal 6km by boat from Edithburgh at the foot of the fabulous Yorke Peninsula could well be the ultimate South Aussie lighthouse getaway!

But be warned! Visit the island only in the company of people you get on well with – because there’s nowhere to hide!

MORE: Red Nomad OZ visits Troubridge Island

7 Troubridge Hill Lighthouse, Yorke Peninsula

It’s just as well this unusual award-winning cylindrical lighthouse built from specially fired wedge-shaped bricks was built to withstand the above-average winds plaguing this part of the southern Yorke Peninsula.

Although high winds are the least of the problems facing ships ploughing through the heavy seas beneath the long stretch of jagged, water-worn limestone cliffs below the lighthouse.

But at least they’ve got an architectural marvel to look at!

MORE: 7 Days on the Southern Yorke Peninsula

8 West Cape Lighthouse, Pondalowie Bay

Shade your eyes if it’s a sunny day at this cliff top lighthouse above the Spencer Gulf’s thundering seas that proving once and for all why the lighthouse is there – the sunlight reflecting off the stainless steel plates coating can be blinding.

Missing the kangaroos, rock parrots and wildflowers on the Cape would be a tragedy. But it’d be even MORE of a tragedy to lose your footing on the rough, rocky path and plunge into the sea WAAAAAY below!

MORE: Red Nomad OZ visits Innes National Park

9 Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park; AND

10  Althorpe Island Lighthouse, Althorpe Island

On a fine day, the staggering panorama of and from Cape Spencer is a TWO-lighthouse-view. At the end of the Cape with vertiginous limestone cliffs plunging into the treacherous waters below, the mainland lighthouse overlooks its counterpart on Althorpe Island, 8 km away at the western end of Investigator Strait.

Is this the ultimate lighthouse lovers fantasy?

Are YOU a South Australian lighthouses lover? Where’s YOUR favourite?

Want MORE?

• Other Lighthouses in South Australia
• Australian Lighthouses
• More South Australian Lighthouse Photos on Flickr

The post Reds TOP 10 Lovely Lighthouses from South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

My Story by Red Nomad OZ

Today we went for a drive in the country on the Yorke Peninsula.

The fields were all dry but the sky was very blue.

We stopped to look at flowers.

There were lots of white everlastings.

We had to look for snakes but we didn’t see any.

That was good.

There was just a dead one on the road.

That was good too.

The sky was very blue down by the beach too.

Pilchard said there were lots of small birds that flew here all the way from Siberia.

He said they are called Red-Necked Stints.

But even they haven’t travelled as far as the Fire Truck in theEdithburgh museum.

It’s weird to think how far those birds come just to escape winter.

Maybe people who live in, say, Switzerland, Hungary or even Texas might like to come here for winter too.

Then they could see the red brick lighthouse called Troubridge Point Lighthouse.

It is round. The bricks are a special shape to make it round. It is the only lighthouse like this in the world.

We stopped to look for seals but there weren’t any. They are all at Kangaroo Island. We could see Kangaroo Island across Backstairs Passage. I don’t know why they called it that. Then Pilchard said we had to go because there might not be any vanilla slices left at the Yorketown bakery.

It was scary driving along the edge of the cliff because it was very windy. The sky was very blue but the sea was even bluer. When we got to Suicide Point it was the bluest of all. But that’s because I made my camera do a trick.

On the way to the bakery the sky was very blue. Then I saw a salt lake. It was very white but it turned blue where the water was still in it. That made the whole picture very blue.

Pilchard was right about the vanilla slices being gone. So he made a mess of his bakery food on the plate. It looked like fresh roadkill. But he said it tasted great.

When we got back to Sultana Point the sky was still blue but there were bits of pink in it. It was still pretty. Tomorrow the sky will be very blue again.

The end.

The post “Red and Pilchard’s Day in the Country” by Red appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Apart from the snake on the beach, our island circumnavigation stroll was pleasant, albeit uneventful.

But a frisson of danger changes everything – and an element of uncertainty elevates the ordinary, or even just plain old pleasant, into something more remarkable, doesn’t it?

Or is that just me?

Whether Griffiths Island, at the mouth of Port Fairy’s Moyne River on Victoria’s Great Ocean Road, is a miracle of engineering or a fine example of ecological vandalism depends on whether you’re a colonialist or an environmentalist.

But the amalgamation of Griffiths and Rabbit islands in the mid-1800s via a breakwater, causeways, retaining walls and riverbed silt today provides a breeding haven for Short-tailed Shearwater (Puffinus tenuirostris), commonly known as mutton birds – an imaginative name bestowed by early settlers in honour of the main use to which they were put.

The mutton bird bodies littering the roadside aren’t due to hunters and gatherers these days, however. After flying 15,000 km from their Aleutian Islands/Kamchatka Peninsula winter home, the central Pacific’s buffeting south east winds claim many victims. But despite the huge distances, locals advise that the birds arrive in Port Fairy within three days of 22^ndSeptember EVERY YEAR!

A ‘lifer’* for keen twitcher** Pilchard, our October 2011 visit was ideal timing – the birds had arrived, but had not yet returned to the sea for their post-mating two week ‘honeymoon’!   According to the Natural Resources and Environment pamphlet ‘Griffiths Island Shearwater Colony’ to which I’m indebted for much of the information in this post, anyway!

And to a dedicated twitcher, sighting a dead bird doesn’t count …

But Griffiths Island isn’t just about birds. While no evidence remains of the whaling station, unsuccessful mission and lighthouse keepers’ cottages of yesteryear, the 3km interpretive walking trail passes the shearwater viewing platform and lighthouse before detouring onto the beach.

And the snake.

I would have taken a photo if the uncharacteristically balletic wings of ‘flight’ hadn’t somehow shifted me several metres away, shrieking like a girl, within a split second!

And Pilchard would have identified the snake if only it had uncoiled while he was standing right beside it … despite my reassurance that ‘snake’ was specific enough for me!!

Enough to send us scuttling back to one of Port Fairy’s two bakeries for a restorative snack!  Although you’re right … it wouldn’t take much!!

On the cusp of the Kanawinka Global Geopark area of volcanic diversity, largest of its kind in the world, and the Bonney Upwelling*** where nutrient-rich water from Antarctica flows onto the continental shelf in certain conditions, Griffiths Island, Port Fairy and surrounds form a unique region of amazing natural phenomena well worth another visit.

And with any luck next time the snakes will stay away!

* Lifer = bird never sighted before

** Twitcher = birdwatcher – yes, the feathered variety …

*** Cool names, huh?!

Want MORE?

• Griffiths Island and Shearwater Colony
• Port Fairy
• Great Ocean Road
• Short-tailed Shearwater
• Kanawinka Global Geopark
• Bonney Upwelling
• Brave Andrew Highriser’s Snake Pic!!!

The post OZ Top Spot #11 – Griffiths Island, Port Fairy, Victoria appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Thank goddess for Byron Bay! The Byron tourist magnet sucks a conglomerate of backpackers, yuppies, new age-ists, surfers, whale watchers and regular local and overseas tourists into its vortex, leaving the fabulous, diverse and bakery-filled Ballina region relatively uncrowded. This is good.

This 7 day teaser is only an introduction – complete with ‘bakery alerts’ – as a week isn’t enough to ‘do’ it properly. I’ve found new things to do every time I go there – and that keeps me coming back!

Here’s some of the GREAT things I’ve found!

Day 1: Ballina Orientation (Bakery Alert!)

We stayed at the Ballina Headlands Leisure Park between Ballina and Lennox Head. An excellent base, we’ve enjoyed many morning walks to nearby Skennars Head, almost always sighting whales, or to Flat Rock, almost always seizing a fantastic (in my opinion) photo opportunity!

Day 2: Cape Byron (Bakery Alert!)

Yes, yes, I know I slagged off about Byron above, but that’s just the crowds, and you can safely handle them for one day, right?

It could even be comical as we found when one visit coincided with Halloween. While this festival isn’t widely celebrated in Australia, we Aussies use anything for an excuse to party!

‘Yeah, sure,’ he spluttered, nodding and nudging the Brit, to whom she was clearly issuing the invitation, sadly distracting him from what (please goddess) must surely have been his 3rd and final attempt at entering his PIN.

But the Brit wasn’t playing along. Clearly more hungover than my initial assessment, he mumbled something about needing a night off the tiles and prepared for a final PIN attempt.

The girl took another look at the Brit’s mate, made a visibly conscious decision to cut her losses and started edging away. Thank goddess, it must FINALLY be my turn at the ATM. But … alas, not yet.

The Brit’s mate became agitated as the vision of loveliness, possibly his sole reason for visiting Australia, de-materialised.

‘He’ll be feeling better tonight,’ he pronounced, simultaneously maintaining eye contact with the witch and nudging the Brits arm. ‘Won’t you, mate?’ he implored.

The Brit gave up the battle with the ATM, and turned to us.

‘We’re keeping these people waiting,’ he announced, and modelling the diplomacy for which the Brits are known, guided the others away from the ATM. The other two looked at us like we’d just dropped from the sky.

‘See you at the party,’ I called as they departed. Maybe I just imagined their shudder of horror …

Quite apart from fun with the tourists AND the superb bakery, Cape Byron’s magnificent views over Australia’s easternmost point often include the Byron wildlife trifecta (whales, dolphins, turtles), and the odd feral goat. The hungover backpacker, exercise freak, whale watcher and crowd-dodging local are also frequently sighted at the lighthouse and on the walking trail.

And if that isn’t enough marvellous scenery for one day, drop in to Broken Head Nature Reserve on the way home and walk around the headland.

Day 3: Market Day

In the market for handmade soap, local coffee, sugarcane and ginger juice, hydroponics books, exotic fruits, massage implements, plants, handmade jewellery and clothing you won’t find anywhere else? The major Sunday market each week is held at either Byron Bay, The Channon, Nimbin or Bangalow with a range of smaller markets at other locations.

My personal favourite? The Channon – also the kick-off point for a visit to Terania Creek, aka ‘Protestors Falls’ where the 70’s blockades stopped logging and led to National Park proclamation. Worth it? Take a look and see!

Days 4 & 5: Somewhere on the Hinterland …

The Ballina Hinterland contains a range of spectacular natural features where you can expend as much or as little energy as you wish. Or are able …

Drive past the Nimbin Rocks to Nimbin itself for a glimpse of how different the world would be if the 70’s peace and love hadn’t been overtaken by 80’s greed and capitalism. This fascinating place to browse, shop and de-tox on natural, organic food and beverages will leave you well able to tackle the delights of Mt Nardi, just up the road! Again you’ve got options – scenic drive/scenic public toilet OR reasonably strenuous hike! Or both, of course.

Please Note: Unless you’re a masochist with a death wish, these activities will take more than a day!

Day 6: Ballina Esplanade Walk

The Esplanade walk from Ballina to the Richmond River mouth on a fine day is one of life’s great pleasures. Spot for dugongs, nesting Ospreys, fish and birds (eg Mangrove gerygone, Superb fairy wren) along the way. Ponder why the kids at the skate park aren’t in school, then cross the bridge over the inlet, pass the lake and head out along the breakwall. Lunch (or at least snack!) at the takeaway and cafe near the caravan park to restore the tissues for the walk back!

Day 7: Lennox Head (Bakery Alert!)

For some of the most spectacular scenery you’ll see anywhere, take a walk from Skennars Head to Lennox Head over the headlands. Indulge in whale, bird, people, surf and extreme sport watching with the secure anticipatory knowledge that yet another wonderful bakery awaits at the end.

But even if you’re unable to walk there, Lennox Head is worth a visit in its own right. Lake Ainsworth, Seven Mile Beach and the amazing (so they tell me) right hand surf break; boutiques and book shops; fantastic fruit and veg shops; a clutch of interesting restaurants – all this and more should see you right for yet another day in paradise.

For the best lunch experience on the coast take your bakery booty to Lennox Head itself – and envy the people who have chosen to live here!

You won’t have time on this trip to take the Richmond River cruise; visit South Ballina; explore hinterland villages (with their own bakeries!!); experience other of the many National Parks, coastal reserves and conservation areas; visit nearby Evans Head and Brunswick Heads; surf, swim and fish; or just hang out!

And you know what THAT means – yes, you’ll just have to come back another day

The post 7 Days in … Ballina, NSW appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

You’d think Troubridge Island and lighthouse would already be several years into a conservation program to preserve this unique South Australian heritage icon, but the SA State Government has different priorities.  The costly shrines to its self indulgence are in urban areas where the votes are, meaning this unique spot is at risk of being lost forever.

Think I’m being a little melodramatic?

The fine historical museum at Edithburgh, closest mainland town to the island, shows the lighthouse surrounded by land.  As you can see from this photo at low tide in 2009, it’s now right on the edge with sandbagging to prevent further erosion from tidal action and winter storms.

SO … my tip for the day is do yourself a favour and book a visit to Troubridge Island while you still can!  Yes, accomodation for up to 10 people is available in one of the lighthouse keepers cottages.  You’ll have the whole island to yourselves – apart from the resident little penguins, black faced cormorants and crested terns.  The island is actually a conservation park so boats (apart from your transport) are not allowed to land.

With water as clear as the tropics, and transport to the island via tractor and trailer, you immediately enter a parallel universe.  No corner stores here – everything required for your stay must be brought with you.

So what do you do on a deserted island?

Snorkelling, fishing, beach footy, BBQs, walks around the island, penguin spotting, birdwatching, table tennis and general relaxation for starters.  And the fence thoughtfully built around the lighthouse lower deck is designed to stop those who’ve had a few from accidentally falling into the sea, which, judging from the comments (some with elaborate illustrations) in the visitors books from years past is a real threat!  If you play your cards right and ask nicely, you may be lucky enough to get an escorted tour to the top of the lighthouse!

All too soon, it was back on the boat and back to the reality of the mainland for us, with vows to return before this fabulous experience is no longer available.

Many before us have had multiple repeat visits (as is evidenced in the visitors books – what they all did there makes VERY interesting reading), such is the spell of this magical place.

But don’t take my word for it – check it out for yourself!

Want MORE?

• Troubridge Island
• Edithburgh, South Australia
• Yorke Peninsula

The post Favourite Place #4 – Troubridge Island, SA appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.