Islands Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/tag/islands/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Fri, 29 Oct 2021 23:29:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Islands Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/tag/islands/ 32 32 Beauty and Bushfires: Exploring Kangaroo Island, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/10/exploring-kangaroo-island-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/10/exploring-kangaroo-island-south-australia/#comments Thu, 14 Oct 2021 12:51:23 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=6839 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Kangaroo Island Bushfires Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.   I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection[...]

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Pennington Bay, Kangaroo Island
Pennington Bay, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island Bushfires

Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.  

Bunker Hill Lookout, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Bunker Hill Lookout, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. He was telling me about his reaction to the horrific bushfires, started by lightning strikes, that burnt more than 46% of the island’s 440,500 hectares (1,700 square miles) over several weeks of the 2019/2020 Australian summer.  Two lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze, numerous farms and businesses ruined and thousands of animals—both livestock and wildlife—perished.

I knew what he meant.  I had just seen the devastation he was describing for myself from the Bunker Hill observation point that looks out over the coastal plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 square miles), or about 96% of the bushland in the park was destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting sight.  

Kangaroo Island Today

Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands and dense coastal scrub, the rolling hills and plains were open and bare where the understory and low vegetation had been burnt away. In many places, only scorched tree trunks remained, very different to the verdant forests I remembered from my only other visit to Kangaroo Island 15 years earlier.

Prospect Hill Lookout, Kangaroo Island
Prospect Hill Lookout, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The bushfires have had devastating environmental, economic and personal consequences for Kangaroo Island’s 4,500-strong population, and have forever separated its history into “before” and “after” the blaze.  Recovery on all fronts has been long, slow and hindered even further by COVID-19 restrictions. 

Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s easy to see why the national park still attracts many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000 annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the bushland’s regeneration is well under way.  A mantle of green is starting to cover the blackened ground and new growth sprouts from the burnt tree trunks.  

Vivonne Bay with Bushfire Damage
Vivonne Bay with Bushfire Damage, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The island has become a land of dramatic contrasts. In the forest and farmland, the fire’s trail of destruction can end abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and untouched greenery side by side. Rocks, dunes and land formations are now strikingly bare where ground cover and the understory once hid them. In places, where the flames reached the sea, there is now an eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened vegetation against the island’s signature aquamarine waters.

Visiting the island now is not only a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness its regeneration first hand, but  also to assist community recovery by providing much needed cash flow to affected businesses and tourism operators.

Lichen-covered rocks, Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island
Lichen-covered rocks, Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced “kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. 

Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi) length is a journey through a stunning wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres (335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched beaches and dune systems, rivers and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant life, fresh regional produce and friendly locals all add to the relaxed island vibe.  Despite the devastation of the fires, the attractions are all still here. A day or two will not be enough to experience everything the island has to offer.

How to get here

The fastest way to reach KI is a 30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres (13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry terminal at Cape Jervis. 

Sellicks Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Sellicks Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis at its south-western tip. Driving from Adelaide gives the option of taking your own vehicle on the ferry, recommended for those who wish to explore the entire island. Caravans, camper trailers and campers can also be taken on the ferry, although tours are available for those without transportation.

My travelling companions and I decided to drive from Adelaide and first explore parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf. As we only had a few hours before our ferry departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s stunning coastline and picturesque inland region wouldn’t be possible. 

Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Instead, we chose a cross-section of attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s long jetty and red rocky walls above the Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop, in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue waters of Normanville beach; and Second Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.

Aboard the Kangaroo Island Ferry
Cape Jervis from Kangaroo Island Ferry, South Australia

Backstairs Passage, the strait between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for its rough seas so choosing the best time to cross can be like picking a winning lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our afternoon crossing was a rough one, but not as bad as the morning trip when most of a large school excursion group became violently sea-sick.  

A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy seas can mean a greater chance of spotting ocean-going birds such as shearwaters, petrels and albatross, not usually seen this close to land.  The only trick is to stay upright on deck and hold the binoculars steady as the ferry heaves and rolls through the waves and cross-currents.

Kangaroo Island History

Rock Formations, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Remarkable Rocks Formations, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Discovery of stone tools, middens (ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave shelters on KI are proof of Australian Indigenous occupation, thought to pre-date colonial settlement by up to 65,000 years. It is believed that a group of people remained on the island when rising waters separated it from the mainland 10,000 years ago during the last glacial period.  Evidence also indicates they left the island 2,000 – 4,000 years before European colonisation, although it is unclear how or why.

Indigenous people from the mainland knew the island as Karta Pintingga or “Island of the dead”. This is because during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the period in which life was created, a Spirit Ancestor travelled to the island en route to the Milky Way and was followed here by spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.

Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

There is some doubt as to when colonial exploration of KI began. The generally accepted version starts in 1802 when Matthew Flinders landed here while on an expedition to map Australia’s southern coastline for the British Government aboard HMS Investigator.  He unimaginatively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for its many kangaroos, a welcome source of fresh meat.

After leaving the island, the Investigator met French ship Le Geographe, captained by Nicolas Baudin. Although their countries were at war, the two captains exchanged information and later that year, Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline, giving many of its geographic features French names.

However, the discovery of an inscription on a tree in the Cygnet River locality dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat meat” indicates that the island was already known by then. To whom, and for how long is unknown.

Baudin’s crew later met some American sealers aboard the brig Union and passed on details of the island to them. The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began, closely followed by the arrival of whalers.

In 1836, the first free (non-convict) European settlement in Australia was established on KI by the British based South Australian Company.  Faced with many difficulties, most of the colony relocated to the mainland four years later, leaving behind a few settlers whose tenacity and ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are characteristics still evident in the present-day KI community.  

Cape du Couedic Coastline, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic Coastline, Kangaroo Island

Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for its quality and exported around the world. A variety of industries includes honey from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world; boutique wineries, breweries and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood; eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products; oats and other cereal crops; along with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and beauty products, all available from local outlets and shopfronts.

Penneshaw and the Dudley Peninsula

The ferry docks at the small town of Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern end, a good base for exploring the Dudley Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the peninsula’s natural attractions are a good introduction to life on KI. 

Lashmar Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Lashmar Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island

We spent a day exploring the three conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s south-eastern coastline. From mid-May to late October, southern right whales and the occasional humpback whale can be seen from the cliff tops along this section of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s largest animal, can also be seen from the shores, although they are more likely to be found feeding in upwelling zones further offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water rises from the ocean depths.

Baudin Conservation Park, with its coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east of Penneshaw, not to be confused with Baudin Beach to the south-west.

Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby, is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching and canoeing.  There’s a popular camping area where the Chapman River, which flows through the park, enters the ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful sandy beach.

At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost, where South Australia’s first lighthouse was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached museum and walking trails around the cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby conservation park.

Sunset at Christmas Cove, Kangaroo Island
Sunset at Christmas Cove, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset over Christmas Cove.  Then take an evening tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula minor) coming ashore on the beaches and cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.

Hog Bay Road follows a string of beaches, including Baudin Beach, south-west from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill, right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where it adjoins the central and western parts of the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’ footsteps and climb the large sand dune, KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views north across Pelican Lagoon to American River and south to Pennington Bay. These days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep climb easier while protecting the fragile dunes beneath.

American River

From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre (6 mi) drive north to the small settlement of American River.  After staying in Penneshaw overnight, we moved here for the remainder of our stay as it offers easier access to the rest of KI’s attractions.

Sunrise with Swans, American River, Kangaroo Island
Sunrise with Swans, American River, Kangaroo Island

The locality was named in true Aussie style for a group of American sealers who camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon, an ocean inlet which they mistakenly thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus atratus) and other water birds plentiful.  

Koala, Kangaroo Island
Koala, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

“Every morning I’d be given a koala to nurse for the day,” Kylie, an accommodation host based in American River, told me. “The next morning I’d be told that the koala I’d been looking after had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.”  She and her husband had only lived on the island a short time before the fires, and even though the American River community wasn’t directly under threat, the smoke was so thick they thought they’d have to leave. They and their neighbours spent some tense nights watching the glow in the sky and hearing horror stories about what was happening at the other end of the island.

Once the fires raged out of control and all visitors had returned to the mainland, Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife rescue centre, set up to care for the influx of injured animals rescued by locals and firefighters.

While exact pre- and post-bushfire numbers are unknown, it is believed that 80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI perished.  About 40% of those treated in the centre were rehabilitated to be released back into the wild, thanks to the tireless work of volunteers and donations from around the world.

The Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge where I was a guest, is located right across the road from the American River inlet.  With comfortable and well-appointed rooms, an excellent restaurant and friendly, helpful staff, it’s also a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. Don’t miss sunrise over the inlet—the colours, reflections and waterbird silhouettes can be stunning.  Afterwards, treat yourself to the wonderful breakfast buffet in the restaurant.

Famous for its seafood, American River’s most well known (and possibly most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood including local oysters, abalini (baby abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish), King George whiting and calamari. 

Pelican Sunrise, American River
Still Life with Pelican, across the road from the Mercure, American River, Kangaroo Island

Just outside town a hiking trail leads to the remains of the town’s historic fish cannery, established around 1890, but abandoned two years later as there was no way to store and keep excess fish. A short drive north-west of town is Redbanks, where multi-coloured cliffs tower above the beach.

KI is home to an endemic subspecies of the critically endangered glossy black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus), and the American River flock can often be seen around the town and nearby bushland. 

Kingscote and North Coast

Endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo, Kangaroo Island
Endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo, Kangaroo Island

Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24 mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s largest town and commercial centre. The first free Australian settlement was set up at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with walking trails and historic sites listed on the South Australian Heritage Register. The Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots. Look for sea lions and dolphins in the waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.

Explore the north coast’s secluded beaches from here, including the white sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this region were hit hard by the bushfires, but much of the north-coast, especially the eastern end, is now accessible.

Snellings View, where I was a guest, makes an excellent base from which to discover the delights of the North Coast’s stunning coastal scenery—or just hide away and relax. With magnificent views over Snellings beach and the surrounding farmland from the deck, the open-plan lounge/dining area and both double bedrooms, this luxurious getaway is fully self-contained. Photos from a book produced by the owners show that the bushfires burned right up to the deck.

Snellings Beach, Kangaroo Island
The beach from Snellings View, Kangaroo Island

“I was wearing my mother’s engagement ring and a ring belonging to my late sister that day.  My other jewellery and belongings were obliterated in the fire,” Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing the devastating losses the day that she and her partner lost their home.  

“A year later, I’m still discovering things I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot of photos to Facebook because my hard drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement of living in temporary accommodation without a permanent home to which they can return isn’t easy either.

Vivonne Bay Jetty, Kangaroo Island
Vivonne Bay Jetty, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Priscilla and her partner are now rebuilding, but the process is hampered by the logistics of living on an island. Returning to normal life is still a long way off but the support of the KI community, all of whom have been affected in some way by the fires, has been invaluable.

The South Coast

Little Sahara, Kangaroo Island
Little Sahara, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The South Coast road is known for its nature- and adventure-based attractions.  Although the fire reached the sea here, the stunning colours, white sandy beaches and rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy to see why this beach was declared  best in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s best beach location.  Spend a day swimming, surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking or canoeing the Harriet River which meets the sea at the bay.

Sunrise at American River, Kangaroo Island
Sunrise at American River, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing. Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat bikes are also on offer by tour companies, with guided walking tours and kayaking also available.

Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be observed from the Visitor Centre viewing platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.

Flinders Chase National Park

From American River, we took the 105 kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the Flinders Chase National Park entrance, taking about 75 minutes. En route, the fire damage became progressively worse until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout mentioned above, where the worst effects of the fire can be seen.

Cape du Couedic coastline, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic coastline, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

In the far south-west at Cape du Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is intact, a stark contrast with other coastal sections of the park now blackened and burnt.  The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five day trek passing through here, was badly damaged by the fires, but a modified version is now open. It is a rare opportunity to see bushland regeneration firsthand and view open landscapes not previously visible when covered by dense vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also available.

Seals and other Wildlife

From the cape, a boardwalk descends into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets.  By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted almost to extinction for their thick, water repellent pelts.  From 1900, various levels of protection have applied to the islets, and now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine Parks protect the waters these seals call home.

Rosenberg’s Goanna, Kangaroo Island
Rosenberg’s Goanna, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Wildlife is returning to the bushfire zone, although much of the habitat they relied on for food and shelter was destroyed. Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are able to bury themselves underground during bushfires in order to survive.

Weirs Cove

KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable waters have been responsible for over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda, the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives were lost in the surrounding waters. Before road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and visitors—were hoisted from the nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre (300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement via a primitive “flying fox” winching system made of pulleys and ropes.

Weirs Cove Lighthouse Outstation Ruins Cape du Couedic
Weirs Cove Lighthouse Outstation Ruins Cape du Couedic, Kangaroo Island

Remarkable Rocks

Ironically, no vegetation obscures the park’s most well known feature—the Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires. The tumbling pile of fractured granite blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on a large dome of exposed granite above a sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove and the coast-hugging road. A coating of bright orange lichen renders some of the rocks even more bizarre. 

Featuring in films such as “Napoleon” (1995), and “The December Boys” (2007), the rocks have also starred in countless home movies and social media posts. Many visitors have their photo taken under the “Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling above the rocky base.  Exploring the odd shapes and textures of the rocks can take a while if you’ve got a camera, and watching other people exploring the rocks can take even longer.

Turtle Beak, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Turtle Beak, Remarkable Rocks, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Although these were the only park attractions open to the public during our stay, I wasn’t disappointed.  Seeing the park’s recovery firsthand replaced the despair I had felt when watching the horrifying blaze on the news night after night.  I’m already looking forward to returning once more attractions have reopened.

Come to Kangaroo Island

Indisputably, the close-knit KI community is known for its resilience and courage, and for working together to preserve and protect the island they love.  After seeing the beauty that remains and regeneration in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent that this island is a special place. 

While full recovery may take many more years, don’t leave it too long to experience its wonders.  Kangaroo Island’s attractions await!

Want MORE?

  • More about Kangaroo Island HERE
  • More about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE
  • The original version of this article first appeared in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2021. For more interesting travel stories check out GlobeRovers HERE.

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Explore South Australia's Kangaroo Island

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My TOP 10 Favourite things to do on Norfolk Island https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/11/10-things-to-do-on-norfolk-island/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/11/10-things-to-do-on-norfolk-island/#comments Wed, 23 Nov 2016 11:24:06 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4838 NEW from RedzAustralia!

A week on Norfolk Island should give you just enough time to realise that a week on Norfolk Island isn’t nearly long enough. Whether or not you’re an amateur photographer/twitcher duo like us, on the prowl for amazing natural attractions, unusual birds (feathered) and scenic loos in exotic locations, chances are you won’t be able to fit it all in.[...]

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Norfolk Island sunset
Norfolk Island sunset

A week on Norfolk Island should give you just enough time to realise that a week on Norfolk Island isn’t nearly long enough.

Whether or not you’re an amateur photographer/twitcher duo like us, on the prowl for amazing natural attractions, unusual birds (feathered) and scenic loos in exotic locations, chances are you won’t be able to fit it all in.

So instead of busting a gut trying to see and do absolutely everything, try a few of my 10 favourite things to do and leave yourself time for some R&R!

Cemetery Bay, Norfolk Island
Cemetery Bay, Norfolk Island

1 See the Island the Local way

I might not have been the youngest person on our island orientation tour – but my relative youth sure made it easy for me to a) hear what the driver was saying; b) identify and board the correct tour bus when more than one was parked at

St Barnabas Chapel Bell Tower, Norfolk Island
St Barnabas Chapel Bell Tower, Norfolk Island

the same location; and c) hit the lead in the race for the afternoon tea scones with Guava Jelly and cream.

Score!

The half-day tour came free with our booking, but I’d gladly have paid for what turned out to be an excellent introduction to the island’s history, points of interest, local characters and the challenges faced by a smallish group of people living on an isolated hunk of rock in the middle of nowhere.

More specifically 1770 km (1100 miles) north-east of Sydney, 1448 km (900 miles) east of Brisbane; 1126 km (700 miles) north-west of Auckland and 804 km (500 miles) south-east of Noumea.

Cemetery, Norfolk Island
Cemetery, Norfolk Island

Starting at the main settlement of Burnt Pine, we took in a superb cross-section of attractions – lookouts, convict ruins, jetties, rugged cliffs, a battleship, an old chapel, whaling station – all served up with spectacular scenery, and a teaser for things we wanted to see in more detail at our leisure.

How I got lucky!

But afternoon tea was where I REALLY got lucky. Because that’s where I found ‘Ask a Silly Question’, a booklet full of hilariously dumb questions tourists have asked local tour guide Max Hobbins.

Such as: ‘Is the Island surrounded by water?’ and ‘What colour is the native Green Parrot?’ and ‘If the Island has such a low crime rate, why do you have electric fences?’

Five minutes later I purchased it, eyes streaming with tears of laughter. And in another blinding piece of luck, the checkout operator introduced me to the author, there on another tour, and I asked him to sign my book.

Score!

I just hope none of the questions I asked him will make it into a future edition!

2 Norfolk’s TOP Spot

Getting to the top of Norfolk Island’s second-highest mountain isn’t too taxing. Just hop in the car and follow the signs to Mount Pitt – 318 metres above sea level, and with an almost 360° panorama from the lookout.

Mt Pitt Lookout, Norfolk Island
Mt Pitt Lookout, Norfolk Island

When the supply ship Sirius ran aground offshore many years ago depriving the islanders of food, the easy-to-catch petrels nesting on the Mt Pitt summit saved the colony from starvation with an estimated 170,000 killed and eaten. Unsurprisingly, despite being named ‘Providence Petrel’, the birds no longer return to their old nesting spot.

So the birds-eye view from Mt Pitt across to Phillip Island where the petrels have started to make a come-back in nesting season is likely to be the closest you’ll come to seeing one.

Getting to the island’s highest point takes a bit more effort. Follow the ups and downs of the Summit track through lush rainforest full of more endemic bird species like Pacific Robin, and past World War II memorabilia. After what I’m told is only 500 metres (although it seemed a lot more to me!) you’ll reach the Mount Bates summit, at 319 metres above sea level, the highest point on the island.

But only if you think it’s worth gaining a metre in altitude and losing a lot of the view!

3 Hit Bedrock

View from Bedrock Cafe, Norfolk Island
View up the coast from Bedrock Cafe, Norfolk Island

In an island full of extraordinary experiences, stunning scenery and fabulous food, the Bedrock Café enthusiastically serves up all three.

Perched on the edge of the Duncombe Bay cliffs with several hundred kilometres of ocean in front of you, the café setting is, for my money, one of Australia’s most spectacular dining locations.

And if you’re a keen birdo, it’s really the only place to be if you want to fit in a Great Frigate bird sighting or two between courses. Where even great food like the egg curry and coconut beef; followed by pear cake and passionfruit tart we had wasn’t distracting enough to prevent binocular and camera overuse syndrome …

4 Green Parrot: one of the World’s Rarest Birds

I SO get that birding isn’t for everyone.

But Norfolk Island’s prime position in the middle of freakin’ nowhere makes it a top birding site for sea birds not normally seen on the mainland AND birds not seen anywhere else on earth!

Green Parrot, Norfolk Island
Green Parrot, Norfolk Island

Even if you’re not a birder, the dense rainforest, scenic lookouts and ever-present Norfolk Island Pines are so spectacular it’s a pleasure just to hike one or more of the many trails in the Botanic Gardens and National Park, covering a third of the island.

Walk the park and you’re right in the rare Green Parrot’s habitat. In the early 1990’s only 4 breeding females remained until an intervention program increased the number to about 200-400 thus saving them from extinction AND ensuring a steady stream of twitchers* visit the island.

Camouflage!

If you think it’d be easy to spot a bright green bird with accents of vivid red and blue in the forest, then think again. Remember – there’s only a few hundred scattered throughout a pretty big park full of green vegetation studded with the red palm berries and cherry guavas the parrots like to eat so spotting one can be challenging.

After a couple of unsuccessful searches during the week, we gave it one last go on the day we departed, just before we had to leave for the airport.

Turns out all we had to do was drive up the road from our accommodation to the Palm Circuit Track trailhead, where we spotted one nonchalantly eating guavas. Too easy!!

5 Captain Cook’s Lookout

The surf thundered and crashed, boiling around the jagged rocks of the Northern Islets far below. Sea birds soared through the haze, thick with salt spray as the surf pounded the rocky shore at the base of the towering cliffs.

Northern Islets from Captain Cook Lookout, Norfolk Island
Northern Islets from Captain Cook Lookout, Norfolk Island

Call me a lily-livered acrophobic** landlubber, but you’d have to be mad to try to come ashore right here. Wouldn’t you??

So what does that make Captain James Cook? According to his ship’s log, he’s thought to have landed somewhere along the stretch of coastline below my vantage point when he ‘discovered’ the island back in 1774.

But mad or not, the Captain Cook Lookout (as it is now known) is now a fine place to have a picnic, or just hang out and admire the view (including a FINE scenic loo!), spot the sea birds and take a hike along the Bridle Track.

6 A Hundred Acres of Wood

White Tern Chick, Norfolk Island
White Tern Chick, Norfolk Island

It’s just as well I thought the ancient Moreton Bay Fig trees lining the road and entrance to the Hundred Acre Reserve deserved more than a quick drive-through. If I hadn’t walked back for yet another tedious photo session (by standards other than mine) I wouldn’t have seen the tiny White Tern chick perched at knee height on the buttress.

I can’t guarantee you’ll get lucky at the fig trees like I did. But stop there anyway to take the track through an almost endless forest of Norfolk Island Pines to Rocky Point, where there’s a better than average chance you WILL get lucky!

With killer coastal scenery, sunsets and sea bird sightings, of course.

7 DOWN to Anson Bay Beach

If not for the track zig-zagging down the sheer cliffs to the stunningly scenic sliver of sub-tropical sand below, Anson Bay Beach would likely have been totally deserted.

While the more popular Emily Bay with its easy-access road, swimming pontoon and scenic loo gets more people AND more press, Anson Bay Beach is a picturesque paradise.  Annd another fine opportunity to practice managing your photo overuse syndrome!

I already had a full blown case of it by Day 3.

Anson Bay Beach Surfers, Norfolk Island
Anson Bay Beach Surfers, Norfolk Island

Anywhere else, it’d be tempting to pack a picnic, a boogie board, swimmers and fishing gear for a big day out. But the thought of the LOOOOOOONG long climb back up the cliff road at the end of the day is an instant crash course in how to pare back those ‘necessities’ to just a swimsuit.

And a camera!

8 One Helluva History – the Museum Crawl

Unbelievably, the public amenities weren’t listed as items of interest in the 53 numbered museums, buildings, sites and artefacts in the Australian Convict Sites visitor guide to the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale area.

Long Boat, Norfolk Island
Long Boat, Norfolk Island

It must have been because of the area’s World Heritage status. Because it’d be just as unbelievable that I’d be the only one interested in potential Scenic Public loos***. Wouldn’t it?

But whether or not you include the facilities, the site represents all four very different periods of Norfolk settlement. It’s a fascinating journey starting with the Polynesians way, WAY back to 1150 CE followed by two separate periods of Convict habitation between 1788-1855. Then the present day community was formed when a group of Pitcairn Islanders, descendants of the Bounty mutineers, resettled here in 1856.

The loos are just a bonus!

9 360° of Art and History

Don’t get me wrong.

Nothing does it for me quite like travelling. BUT … every now and then, after a few days of relentless exploring and experiencing and excitement, it all gets a bit too exhausting.

But taking a day off to just do nothing doesn’t work for me either.

And that’s when I wish for a bite-sized package of cultural, natural and historic experiences to do me for the day. Kind of like a LITE version.

Norfolk LITE!

Luckily, Norfolk’s LITE version is an easy-access mixture of history, art and culture wrapped up in a stunning and remarkably detailed 360° painting – the Cyclorama – depicting key points in the island’s history.

Weirdly, the ‘no photos’ rule didn’t bother me a bit! I can’t recall the last time I wandered around without considering photo angles and lighting, or wishing my photographic skills were a bit more advanced!

So here’s a completely gratuitous photo of something else!

The Sirius, moored off Slaughter Bay, Norfolk Island
The Sirius, moored off Slaughter Bay, Norfolk Island

10 Selwyn Cottage

Booking a place to stay sight unseen can be risky when you haven’t even seen your destination, let alone the accommodation options. But it turns out we didn’t have to worry.

Because with Selwyn Cottage we REALLY lucked out!

Selwyn Cottage Garden, Norfolk Island
Selwyn Cottage Garden, Norfolk Island

With a private garden so fine we could have spent the whole week there, this standalone cottage in a quiet suburb close to the National Park and township was the perfect retreat after a hard day on the sightseeing trail.

Factor in the facilities, island hospitality and personal touches that made Selwyn Cottage a home away from home, and this family run haven will be where we stay when we return! Even if we have to plan our holiday around it 😀

And here’s an extra one for nothing!  You’re welcome …

11 The one that got away – Philip Island

I really Really REALLY wanted to go to Philip Island.

The ‘Uluru of the South Pacific’, as it is described in a tourist brochure, is six kilometres south of Norfolk Island with a distinctive shape and colour visible from almost every vantage point.

Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island
Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island

Once stocked with feral animals for sport and food during penal settlement days, the degraded environment is now being rehabilitated after an eradication program. It’s a haven for rare plants, sea birds and at least five reptiles and invertebrates found nowhere else on earth. Visitors are warned about a hazardous landing and steep, rocky track complete with ropes! Who could resist?

But it’s not that easy to get there – adverse weather conditions and heavy seas during our stay meant the tour wasn’t running so we MISSED OUT!

And so the most important question of all remains unanswered. Is there, or is there not, a SUPER scenic public loo?

Norfolk Island Pines
It just wouldn’t be Norfolk Island without those Norfolk Island Pines!

My TOP Ten Teaser isn’t the definitive guide to Norfolk Island.  There’s a LOT more to see and do and I can’t wait to go there again! See you there??

Want MORE?

* Twitcher = bird watcher with a penchant for rare and/or unusual birds

** Acrophobia = fear of heights

*** If you’re wondering why the obsession with loos, then check out my book HERE!

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How to Spend 7 Days in Paradise – Lord Howe Island, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/09/how-to-spend-7-days-in-paradise-lord-howe-island-new-south-wales/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/09/how-to-spend-7-days-in-paradise-lord-howe-island-new-south-wales/#comments Sat, 19 Sep 2015 13:17:06 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4081 NEW from RedzAustralia!

‘I’ll take TEN kilos off for your RED hair,’ the baggage handler announced as I stepped on to the scales clutching my hand luggage. Just as well, I thought, sneaking a peek at the reading. Boy, were those scales defective, or WHAT?! Luckily, the scales faced away from the crowds at the airport – who was going to believe that[...]

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Sunset over Blackburn Island, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales
Sunset over Blackburn Island, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

‘I’ll take TEN kilos off for your RED hair,’ the baggage handler announced as I stepped on to the scales clutching my hand luggage. Just as well, I thought, sneaking a peek at the reading. Boy, were those scales defective, or WHAT?!

Luckily, the scales faced away from the crowds at the airport – who was going to believe that my bags were full of Ununoctium – heaviest substance on earth?

Lord Howe Island Woodhens and Muttonbirds on Road!!
Lord Howe Island Woodhens and Muttonbirds on Road!!

I was about to leave Lord Howe Island – sub-tropical wonderland, nature-lovers nirvana and paradise on a stick. And where every holiday comes with a kilo-killing combination of walking, cycling, hiking, swimming and more walking!

There aren’t many other options on a mountainous sub-tropical island with only a few kilometres of road, hardly any cars, masses of walking tracks and hundreds of bicycles!

And the awesome, staggering view of THOSE mountains wherever you go …

Spending a week in paradise is easy! Finding things to do on Lord Howe Island is easy too!! What’s NOT so easy is fitting it all into 7 days that’ll pass WAY too quickly!!

So use my 7 days in paradise suggestions as a guide – then tell me what YOU did there in the comments below!

Day 1: Lord Howe Island Highlights

As we landed, the killer cross-winds, stormy weather and other climatic extremes that sometimes stop planes from landing* were thankfully absent.

Just as well – there’s not much room for error on the small airstrip bisecting the narrowest (and flattest) part of the island between the ocean and the main road!

Airstrip View over Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island
Airstrip View over Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island

After disembarking and taking the first of what would become several thousand LOTS of photos of THOSE mountains, our accommodation host Jim** took us on a quick tour of the island’s highlights, including stops to stock up at a) the general store; b) the liquor store; and c) the BAKERY!! YESSS!!

After settling in, we climbed Transit Hill to the lookout overlooking THOSE mountains, followed by the first of MANY sunset shots – LHI is the only place in NSW where the sun sets over the sea!

While there’s no obligation to follow our Day 1 itinerary, chances are your first day on LHI will closely resemble this one – although Transit Hill could easily be replaced by what’s close by and what interests you.

Northern end of Lord Howe Island from Kings Beach
Northern end of Lord Howe Island from Kings Beach

Day 2: A Day on the Beach!

Spending a day on the beach on Lord Howe Island is easy.  But deciding which beach on which to spend it could be tricky!

The rocky beaches down south near Little Island give way to the longer (and less visited) stretches of Salmon, Kings and Johnsons Beaches along Lagoon Road.  Further north, there’s a barbecue and picnic area at Cobbys Corner and the beach has an awesome view of THOSE mountains!

Red feeds the fish at Neds Beach, Lord Howe Island
Red feeds the fish at Neds Beach, Lord Howe Island

Lagoon Beach is protected by the reef – hire snorkelling gear; or a kayak to paddle across the bay to Blackburn island. There’s a picnic spot at the southern end of the protected Old Settlement beach, and it’s either a long walk or a boat ride around to North Beach (see Day 7 below)!

Combine surfing with plane-spotting at Blinky Beach near the airport, or take the steep climb down to Middle Beach, off the track to the Clear Place Lookout.

Popular Neds Beach at the north-eastern corner has picnic facilities, a shelter shed, snorkel and boogie board hire and spectacular views. Feed the fish, explore the rocks or check out the bird life – if you’re a twitcher***, you won’t be disappointed!

Cobbys Corner and THOSE Mountains, Lord Howe Island
Cobbys Corner and THOSE Mountains, Lord Howe Island

Day 3: Kims Lookout Circuit Hike

If you’re one of the several billion people on earth who are a) less acrophobic; b) fitter; and c) more masochistic than me, you’ll probably opt for the guided Mt Gower walk, a 14 km 8 hour marathon from sea level to the top of the 875 metre high peak.

But vertigo is my real enemy – and I’d seen the hiker grab rope high above the sea nailed to the towering cliffs, and the LOOOOOONG exposed ridge leading to the summit so I wasn’t going to inflict my fears on a group of total strangers.

Yes, the word you’re looking for is ‘magnanimous’! Which beats the hell out of ‘cowardly’, ‘gutless’ or ‘s**t-scared’!

Clifftop Trail from Malabar Hill to Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
Clifftop Trail from Malabar Hill to Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

The 7 km (4.3 mile) Kims Lookout circuit hike starts at Neds Beach. Climb to the top of Malabar Hill (look out for the Catalina Crash memorial) where cliffs plunge down, WAAAAAY down, to the sea and the view is fine over the Admiralty Islets, Neds Beach and on a clear day, Balls Pyramid (see Day 4 below)!

Follow those same plunging cliffs west – don’t lose your footing while watching the Red-tailed Tropicbirds – to Kims Lookout and the panoramic view overlooking most of the island.

Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

Return via the Max Nicholls Memorial Track to Old Settlement Beach, then hike back to Neds Beach. Happily, the Anchorage Café en route might have been built for intrepid hikers in need of food and drink before completing the circuit!

Day 4: Balls Pyramid

Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island
Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

Getting to the world’s highest volcanic rock stack means a boat ride around the island, followed by an 23 km run across a deep sea trench that makes the voyage REALLY rough. NOT suffering from seasickness is a bonus – on this tour, my iron gut well and truly made up for the crippling vertigo (see Kims Lookout above)!

I could go on and on about this awesome tour – and I did!! Read all about our Balls Pyramid Adventure right HERE!!

Day 5: World Exclusives Day

Balls Pyramid isn’t Lord Howe Island’s only world exclusive experience on offer – finding a few more is ridiculously easy!

One of 5 birds endemic to the island, the Lord Howe Island Woodhen is hard to miss with its strange, honking cry – once nearly extinct, it’s found around the island. Which also makes this the only place in the world with a road sign warning of their presence (see 2nd photo above).

Little Island, Kentia Palms and Providence Petrel colony on Mt Lidgbird cliffs, Lord Howe Island
Little Island, Kentia Palms and site of Providence Petrel colony on Mt Lidgbird cliffs, Lord Howe Island

The cliffs above Little Island, down the southern end at the start of the Mt Gower track, are the only known breeding colony of the Providence Petrel (March to October). And those same cliffs have the world’s largest natural rock cross – although it’s easier to see from Thompson Memorial Park further north.

Lord Howe Island Cross
Lord Howe Island Cross

Head that way and pass through the golf course – the only one anywhere in the world in a World Heritage area! Out in the lagoon there’s the world’s southernmost coral reef.

See the Lord Howe Island Phasmid – once thought extinct until re-discovered on Balls Pyramid in 2001 – there’s a couple of specimens on display in the Visitor Centre and Museum.

While Kentia Palms are now found in gardens and dwellings throughout the world, Lord Howe Island is the only place to see them growing wild in their natural habitat. There’s also more than 50 other endemic plants.

Then there’s the Scenic Public Loo … (see below)

Day 6 Boat Harbour and Mutton Bird Point

Walk through spectacular rainforest and mangroves to the rocky beach at Boat Harbour. If you’re up for a steep, rope assisted climb, take a detour from the top of Smoking Tree Ridge to Goat House Cave like I didn’t (see Day 3 where I also didn’t do Mt Gower).

Boat Harbour, Lord Howe Island
Boat Harbour, Lord Howe Island

From Boat Harbour, follow the coastal track around to Mutton Bird Lookout at Mutton Bird Point for spectacular views across to Mutton Bird Island! Bet you can’t guess what you’ll see there!!

Day 7 North Bay

Start the day with a Glass-Bottom Boat Tour over the reef and into North Bay. Take a picnic lunch and disembark at North Beach to explore the wild and spectacular north-western end of the island.

North Beach and Mt Eliza from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
North Beach and Mt Eliza from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

There’s a short walking track to Old Gulch, and a longer, MUCH steeper one to Mount Eliza’s 147 metre summit with amazing views along the north coast and down to THOSE mountains.

North Beach on a rainy day, Lord Howe Island
North Beach on a rainy day, Lord Howe Island

The Max Nicholls Memorial Track climbs steeply up to the Dawsons Point Ridge, then descends steeply down to Old Settlement Beach. Take a detour to the Catalina wreckage.

With any luck, tonight will be Pie night at the Bowling Club, or Pizza night at the Anchorage Cafe – the perfect ending to a week in paradise!

But remember – tomorrow you’ll be standing on those defective airport scales like I did. Why? Because a smallish plane on a smallish airstrip can only carry a certain amount of weight for a viable take-off. So if passengers + carry-on luggage + cargo weigh too much, some of the cargo gets left behind!

That’s when that 10 kg discount will REALLY come in handy!

THOSE Mountains! Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales
THOSE Mountains! Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

Lord Howe Island Fast Facts:

  • Where is it? 700 km (~420 miles) north-east of Sydney
  • How big is it? 1455 hectares; about 11 km long, and 2.8 km across at its widest point.
  • How do I get there? QantasLink flies direct from Sydney or Port Macquarie. Contact Lord Howe Island specialist travel agents for more details.
  • When to go: Anytime! Temperatures average 19 – 25° C in summer, and 13 – 18° C in winter.
  • Getting Around: The main method of transport is walking or cycling – bicycles and helmets are readily available for hire. There are a limited number of vehicles for hire.
  • Things to Do: See above!
  • Accommodation: All tourists must book accommodation with their flights. There are about 400 tourist beds available in a range of accommodation types including units, apartments and cottages.
  • Food: Bring your own food by all means, but it’s part of your 14 kg checked +7 kg carry-on baggage allowance! Groceries are available, and there are a range of dining options including cafes and restaurants.
  • Communication: No mobile phone coverage! But there ARE public phones and some internet access.
Old Gulch from Mt Eliza, North Bay, Lord Howe Island
Old Gulch from Mt Eliza, North Bay, Lord Howe Island

Want MORE?

* At the end of our holiday, we kinda wished bad weather would stop our flight out from arriving 😀

** We stayed at Waimarie Apartments in the middle of the island on both our visits to LHI

*** Actually, if you’re a twitcher, you won’t need this guide at all – you’ll end up visiting all the LHI hotspots anyway, although you might not actually see the scenery because those darned birds keep getting in the way!

The most scenic loo in OZ?? Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island
The most scenic loo in OZ?? Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island

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Basalt, Birds and Balls Pyramid! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/balls-pyramid/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/balls-pyramid/#comments Sun, 14 Dec 2014 00:04:10 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2917 NEW from RedzAustralia!

‘The current’s running like a cut cat round the island,’ Jack shouted. He fired up Noctiluca‘s powerful 200 horse power engines and guided the eight-metre vessel into the bay. Boat Tour to Ball’s Pyramid If not for the camera in one hand and a convenient strut for balance in another, I’d have high-fived Pilchard. On our first trip three years[...]

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Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island
Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

‘The current’s running like a cut cat round the island,’ Jack shouted. He fired up Noctiluca‘s powerful 200 horse power engines and guided the eight-metre vessel into the bay.

Boat Tour to Ball’s Pyramid

If not for the camera in one hand and a convenient strut for balance in another, I’d have high-fived Pilchard. On our first trip three years ago, our tour had been cancelled due to bad weather. Two days ago, bad weather struck again.

Balls Pyramid through the Sea Spray
Balls Pyramid through the Sea Spray aboard the Noctiluca

But the third time was the charm, and we were finally en route to Balls Pyramid.  At 552 metres (1811 feet) in altitude it’s the highest volcanic rock stack in the WORLD!

It was going to be a bumpy ride.

That’s because the 23 km (14.2 miles) trip to the distinctive hunk of rock that is Balls Pyramid crosses a deep water trench. But the rare combination of open ocean and land makes the Pyramid a unique crossover habitat.  And that made it perfect for bird-watching and diving!

But first we had to get round the island.

Eastern side of Island from Malabar Hill
Eastern side of Lord Howe Island from above on Malabar Hill

As we rounded the northern cape with sheer cliffs plunging into the tossing seas, my psychic powers told me we’d entered the less protected waters. That and the wild westerly wind, rough, choppy seas. And the current which was indeed running like a cut cat as we headed for the islands.

Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island
Classic view of Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island

Lurching and heaving in the boiling blue waters swirling round the rocks, we edged closer and closer to the cliffs.  We spotted a cloud of Grey Ternlets,birding lifer #1 for the trip, with five more to come before the tour was over. As all cameras except mine clicked wildly around me, I was in serious danger of being knocked overboard by thousands of dollars worth of giant lenses swinging wildly in the heaving waters.

What a way to go!

But as the spray rained down on all that expensive camera equipment, I caught my first sea-level glimpse of Balls Pyramid, visible from only a few places on Lord Howe Island.

An Extraordinary Tour Guide

Mt Gower from Western Side
Mt Gower from Western Side, Lord Howe Island

Tour guide and skipper Jack Shick, a 5th generation Lord-Howe-Islander and co-owner of Sea to Summit Expeditions, has all the island’s bases covered. When he’s not running fishing charters and Balls Pyramid tours, he’s guiding climbers up the 875 metre (2871 feet) high Mt Gower. Round the more rugged, eastern side of the island the view of the long, exposed ridge, last leg of the strenuous14 km hike that led to its summit gave me the cold shivers. Jack’s climb with his father at 8 years of age was the first of 1700+, the most ascents made by anyone ever.

All that despite being around my age!

Colours of Balls Pyramid
Colours of Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island

Bird Life on the Open Sea

I resolutely put the thousands of metres of water between me and the bottom of the trench out of my mind as we entered the open sea. I braced myself against the side of the boat and tried desperately to keep the horizon level for yet another shot of Balls Pyramid.

Flesh-footed Shearwater
Flesh-footed Shearwater

We’d entered the ocean-going bird zone and the Flesh-footed Shearwaters wheeled and dived in a feeding frenzy. Can you guess why they’re also called ‘Muttonbirds’?  A flock of White Bellied Storm Petrels, world’s smallest seabird, fluttered around us their long, trailing legs looking like they were dancing on the waves. And a lone South Polar Skua on a rare excursion this far north cast a giant shadow on the deck as all cameras but mine clicked furiously.

Ball’s Pyramid

White-bellied Storm Petrels
White-bellied Storm Petrels

Balls Pyramid is impressive from wherever you view it.

But nothing had prepared me for the reality of the Pyramid with its massive, bare basalt peaks rising straight up out of the ocean, the intriguingly coloured rock towering high above our tiny boat.

Masked Booby, Balls Pyramid
Masked Booby, Balls Pyramid via Lord Howe Island

Wild, wet and windswept, the heavy seas crashed around the rocky reefs at the Pyramid’s inhospitable 1100 x 400 metre base as Masked Boobies soared around the peaks.

Balls Pyramid Western Face
Balls Pyramid’s perpendicular Western Face

Climbing Ball’s Pyramid

The first successful ascent was by Bryden Allen and party in 1965.  This followed an unsuccessful attempt the year before by a party including legendary explorer and entrepreneur Dick Smith.  In 1979, Dick Smith returned to the pyramid. With fellow climber John Worrall completed the ascent where he then claimed Balls Pyramid for Australia!

Me? AAAAARRRRGGGGH! Not ever, no way!

A Rare Creature

Lord Howe Island Phasmid
Lord Howe Island Phasmid at Visitors Centre

Inhospitable though the Pyramid may be, a remnant population of the endemic Lord Howe Island Phasmid was discovered here many years after it had been given up as extinct on the island. It’s the only known colony in the world.

As we chugged around the Pyramid, I was awestruck by the ever-changing vistas of its stupendous bulk. Colours and patterns swirled through its jagged peaks and sheer cliff faces, with massive cracks criss-crossing the rocky layers and perpendicular walls. I finally started snapping away.  Pilchard was horrified when he realised I hadn’t been quite as busy snapping the wondrous array of birds he’d never seen before.

And would possibly never see again.

Balls Pyramid from Noctiluca
Balls Pyramid from Noctiluca

Tragically, a reduction in photographic activity wasn’t the only clue as to who wasn’t a very good sailor as we slapped through the swell, spray swirling in all directions. Bracing myself against the side of the boat and Pilchard, I snapped the retreating Pyramid in its ever-changing guises as the rain moved in from the west.

Leaving Balls Pyramid Behind

Rounding Lord Howe Island’s southern end, the monstrous bulk of Mt Gower soared above us. Providence Petrels whirled and spun against the cliffs in the world’s only known breeding grounds as Balls Pyramid disappeared from view.

Balls Pyramid from Gower Island
Final View of Balls Pyramid from Gower Island, Lord Howe Island

The extreme upper body workout I’d had from hanging onto the Noctiluca railings to stay upright in the heaving seas and monstrous swell had been tiring.  But I furiously pedalled my bicycle homeward against the wind, in a successful attempt to outrun the rain. Happily, we’d had the foresight to lay in supplies.  As the night closed in and turned to rain and I collapsed, exhausted, onto the lounge.

Fisherman, Lord Howe Island
Fisherman on the reef at sundown, Lord Howe Island

But unlike skipper Jack, I hadn’t climbed Mt Gower the day before. I still had a LONG way to go!

Balls Pyramid
Balls Pyramid, Dead Ahead!

Want MORE?

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Aussie ABC – I is for Islands! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/04/aussie-abc-i-is-for-islands/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/04/aussie-abc-i-is-for-islands/#comments Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:17:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=139 NEW from RedzAustralia!

  I’ve spent my entire life on Islands large and small. But only if you count Australia! Some say it’s the world’s biggest island, some the smallest continent, others don’t actually care … But me? Of COURSE it’s an island! Anything to add more bragging rights another world class experience to my loud, proud Aussie portfolio! But while my devotion[...]

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Mounts Gower and Lidgbird, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales
Mounts Gower and Lidgbird, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

 

I’ve spent my entire life on Islands large and small. But only if you count Australia! Some say it’s the world’s biggest island, some the smallest continent, others don’t actually care …

Historic Supply Landing, Kangaroo Island
Historic Supply Landing, Kangaroo Island

But me? Of COURSE it’s an island! Anything to add more bragging rights another world class experience to my loud, proud Aussie portfolio!

But while my devotion to the BIG island is well documented, Australia’s 8222 other islands often lure us away from the mainland, and into a different world. Island magic weaves its spell from the moment that sea crossing – an actual rite of passage – physically separates the traveller from her/his troubles, and lands her/him in what is more often than not a wondrous amalgam of staggering scenery, wonderful wildlife and relentless relaxation.

That’s been our collective experience of 20+ Aussie islands in 25+ years, anyway!!
But even after eliminating islands that can’t be reached the discerning traveller is left with several thousand from which to choose – each with its own history, natural attractions, activities, wildlife and character.

So narrow the field even further and follow me around OZ for my Idiosyncratic Individualised 5-Island Introduction!

Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island, Far North Queensland
Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island, Far North Queensland

1.  For … ‘Idyllic‘, try Magnetic Island, Far North Queensland!

Magnetic Island walking track Nelly Bay to Arcadia
Magnetic Island walking track Nelly Bay to Arcadia

So much more than the twanging tourists and wandering wildlife I’ve previously described (see below), Magnetic Island perfectly combines natural attractions with niceties; charm with convenience; and laid back lifestyle with luxury.

Only 8 km offshore from Townsville, it’s easy to get to Magnetic Island by ferry, and even easier to stay … National parks, beaches and bays, a variety of accommodation and dining options (yes! a bakery!) and its own public transport system make this island an archetypal idyllic tropical paradise!

2.  For ‘Incomparable‘, try Lord Howe Island, New South Wales!

The high incidence of world class attractions ensures this small island 600 km off the New South Wales coast a steady stream of visitors and makes it one of my all time favourite Australian travel destinations. It’s also the scene of my one and only triathlon attempt … but that’s another story (see link below)!

Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

Lord Howe Island’s well deserved world heritage status manifested in staggering scenery, numerous endemics and fascinating history is best experienced over as lengthy a period of time as you can afford. Add to that (arguably) the most scenic public toilet in Australia AND a bakery, and you’d be ill-advised to ignore this incomparable island!

3.  For ‘Incredible‘, try Griffiths Island, Victoria!

Lighthouse, Griffiths Island, via Port Fairy, Victoria
Lighthouse, Griffiths Island, via Port Fairy, Victoria
Muttonbird Burrow, Griffiths Island
Muttonbird Burrow, Griffiths Island

Migrating muttonbirds (Short-tailed Shearwater) manage the 15,000 km flight from their home in the Aleutian Islands and Kamchatka Peninsula so as to arrive at their nesting grounds on Griffiths Island within 3 days of 22nd September every year!! Incredible!

As is the engineering feat that combined two islands into one at the mouth of Port Fairy’s Moyne River, and the island’s interesting history and glorious scenery. Every day at sundown, the muttonbirds return from the sea to roost and feed their chicks in their nesting burrows – an incredible sight which one day we’ll get to see!

4.  For ‘Intriguing‘, try Kangaroo Island, South Australia!

Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island
Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island

Australia’s 3rd largest island, this eclectic mixture of unspoiled beaches, Remarkable Rocks (their actual name!), seal colonies, lighthouses, sand dunes, national parks and the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world is one of South Australia’s premier attractions.

With a number of settlements, a strong eco-tourism presence and a plethora of natural attractions (a study once named Vivonne Bay the top beach in Australia) ‘KI’, as it is known downunder, is South Australia’s answer to the northern tropics!

5.  For ‘Infamous‘, try the Abrolhos Islands, Western Australia!

Albrohos Islands, Western Australia (photo courtesy Bill's Diving Blog )
Albrohos Islands, Western Australia (photo courtesy Bill’s Diving Blog )
Batavia's Anchor, Albrohos Islands WA  (photo courtesy Bill's Diving Blog )
Batavia’s Anchor, Albrohos Islands WA  (photo courtesy Bill’s Diving Blog )

If mutiny and shipwreck, with theft, murder, rape, a psychopathic anti-hero and the general breakdown of civilisation in the 106 days before rescue sounds a little too much like ‘Extreme Survivor’, then you probably don’t want to read the sensational true story of the Batavia, wrecked off the Western Australian coast on the Albrohos islands in 1629!

This compelling tale of degeneration, dastardly deeds and despair on the islands has been the subject of many studies, novels, films and TV series, but it’s probably too melodramatic to say I’m dying to visit one day!!

Happily, Perth Daily Photo supplied these pictures from her friend and mentor Bill, whose excellent Bill’s Diving Blog has even more photos of these infamous islands, now home to much less sensational ecotourism pursuits!

Albrohos Islands, Western Australia (photo courtesy of Bill's Diving Blog )
Albrohos Islands, Western Australia (photo courtesy of Bill’s Diving Blog )

Yes, I know.

It’s all too beautiful, isn’t it?

And you want to see it for yourself, right??

So what are you waiting for?

Enjoy!

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My Lord Howe Island Triathlon! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/05/my-lord-howe-island-triathlon/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/05/my-lord-howe-island-triathlon/#comments Tue, 24 May 2011 04:07:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=213 NEW from RedzAustralia!

 *WARNING*: Real triathletes may find this post offensive! Please select another post!!    Lord Howe Island visitors seeking inertia are likely to be disappointed. Getting from A to B usually involves walking or cycling – and the best island activities are high-energy, hands-on and outdoors based. So after two days of reconnaissance on foot, we extended our range[...]

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*WARNING*: Real triathletes may find this post offensive! Please select another post!! 

 

Lord Howe Island visitors seeking inertia are likely to be disappointed. Getting from A to B usually involves walking or cycling – and the best island activities are high-energy, hands-on and outdoors based. So after two days of reconnaissance on foot, we extended our range with bicycles – and that’s how I inadvertently became a triathlete!

But not a conventional one. 



Callously flouting triathlon rules we started with the cycling leg, broke it into three parts and split the second one with a bakery lunch. Well, wouldn’t you? And despite my 28 year cycling hiatus, I still taught other cyclists a thing or two about cycling speed. You’d think the Islanders had never seen anyone cycle so slowly as they whizzed past me, Mills & Boon-man thighs – all tanned and muscular – working their pedals into a blur!! But I guess they’d already seen the magnificent scenery my more leisurely (aka ‘snail’) pace allowed me to admire … 

  

Swimming at Old Settlement Beach, Lord Howe Island



In my defence, my pre-holiday Farm Gym fitness regime suffered several setbacks. A fencing session (post & wire, not epée & en garde) in gumboots on a steep, rocky slope covered in slippery grass went horribly wrong. While no photographic evidence exists to support my ‘world’s first planker’ claim, the slide to the bottom of the hill on my stomach was pure planking in motion … although planking purists could argue my swift, ungainly descent wasn’t actually ‘balancing’!
The twisted ankle and bout of flu came later. 



But none of those affected the swimming leg at beautiful Old Settlement Beach, although it would have been much faster (and further!) if not for the distraction of unrelieved views over Mounts Lidgbird and Gower.  



Old Settlement Beach from Malabar Hill, Lord Howe Island



In another desperate act of triathletic rebellion, we replaced running with hiking. Which made this the most challenging leg so far, given a) the bakery lunch taken during the second cycling leg, b) wet swimmers and c) inappropriate sandals. Malabar Hill’s steep climb – from 0 to 209 metres above sea level – rewards triathletes (and regular climbers) who reach the narrow ridge without contracting vertigo with a 360° view taking in Old Settlement, the Admiralty Islands, Ned’s Beach and – best of all – the wondrous Ball’s Pyramid in the distance! And while looking down all 209 metres of sheer cliff to a turtle swimming in the sea below made me feel queasy, the Red-tailed Tropicbirds flying backwards (literally!) and forwards at eye level more than made up for it.

Looking South from Malabar Hill
  
Descending quickly to avoid the threatening rain, we broke the final cycling leg back along lagoon road to our lodge by a stop at the shop for essential provisions for an evening in. Just as well as it later poured with rain! But it wouldn’t have mattered anyway – I was too tired to move …  

 

For the record, here are my results:

 

Lord Howe Island Triathlon statistics:

She’ll be coming down the mountain …



  • General handicaps: Planking injuries, twisted ankle, system weakened by flu, spectacular scenery, bakery temptation
  • Cycling legs: ~6km total over 3 legs. Handicaps: 28 years between cycles
  • Swimming leg: 20m (no, that’s not a misprint. ‘Swim’ is a euphemism for ‘dip and splash about’)
  • Hiking leg: 1.4 km return, from 0-209 metres above sea level. Handicaps: Recent lunch, inappropriate sandals, wet clothing
  • Time taken: All day!!
  • Ranking: 2nd (of two, although the other participant didn’t have as many of the general handicaps!)
And if you’re thinking it’d be easy to outdo this performance, feel free to give it a go – but ensure you apply the same or equivalent handicaps!! 



Just let me know when my record has been beaten …






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Favourite Place #6 – Lord Howe Island, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/05/favourite-place-6-lord-howe-island-new-south-wales/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/05/favourite-place-6-lord-howe-island-new-south-wales/#comments Wed, 11 May 2011 04:43:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=217 NEW from RedzAustralia!

OK, I admit it. I’m shallow. For a favourite place to make it onto my favourite places list, it’s got to be able to deliver experiences I can’t have anywhere else. In Australia, if not the world! And a selection of good bakeries doesn’t hurt either … Stepping onto the 1km airstrip bisecting Lord Howe Island and into a Bali[...]

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Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island
Mounts Lidgbird and Gower, Lord Howe Island

OK, I admit it. I’m shallow.

For a favourite place to make it onto my favourite places list, it’s got to be able to deliver experiences I can’t have anywhere else. In Australia, if not the world!

And a selection of good bakeries doesn’t hurt either …

Stepping onto the 1km airstrip bisecting Lord Howe Island and into a Bali Hai-esque panorama featuring the twin peaks of Mounts Lidgbird and Gower was a splendid start to our April 2011 stay.

And from there it just got better and better.

The only Golf Course anywhere on World Heritage Turf
The only Golf Course anywhere on World Heritage Turf

600km east of Port Macquarie, this unique island is a parallel universe – old favourites amongst birds, plants and insects coexist with endemic species, and it punches above its weight with with a disproportionately high number of state, Australian and world exclusives. Hardly surprising, then that the Lord Howe island group was World Heritage listed in 1982!

The lagoon surrounded by the world’s southernmost coral reef (and where new fish species are still being discovered) is the only place in NSW where the sun sets over the sea. And the 9 hole golf course, the only one anywhere on World Heritage turf, is in a setting so spectacular I could almost see the point of golf … hitting the ball into the sea in such a place would almost be an honour!

 

1% of World population of Lord Howe Is Woodhen#
1% of World population of endemic Lord Howe Island Woodhen#

And when a Lord Howe Island woodhen pecks your toes? Well, it IS is a thrill to be had nowhere else in the world … and by not many others.

Down to the last 30 birds in the 70’s, the woodhen narrowly escaped extinction through a successful breeding program and its population is now stable at around 300.

Ball’s pyramid – at 550m high the world’s tallest volcanic sea-stack and 23 km from Lord Howe Island – is visible from a few strategic points on the island.
Claimed for Australia in the 70’s by explorer and entrepreneur Dick Smith, it was once the last place on earth for the Lord Howe Island Phasmid – rarest insect in the world. Thought extinct for many years, a breeding program saved this giant stick-insect from extinction when a remnant colony was discovered on Ball’s Pyramid. Devastatingly, our sightseeing cruise was cancelled – but that’s just strengthened our resolve to return (we DID return – read about our Balls Pyramid Adventure HERE!)
Ball's Pyramid from Lord Howe Island#
Ball’s Pyramid from Lord Howe Island#
Tropical island, palm trees, cliché … yeah, sure! But not when the palms are Kentia palms – a Lord Howe Island exclusive, strong contender for world domination in the indoor plants market and the island’s major export. Knock off two world exclusives for the price of one by checking out the phasmids at the Kentia palm nursery … three if you spot a woodhen on the way!!
But … it’s not all moonlight and magnolias here in paradise – several endemic bird species are now extinct, courtesy of the colonial practice of importing animals for food and hunting and an invasion of shipwrecked rats.
My arty shot of the lagoon
My artfully crooked shot of the lagoon
That won’t scuttle our plans to return (SOON!), however, as the sound management and conservation practices are balancing the ecosystem to assure the island’s integrity. Although bakery sl*ts like us would be lured back by the fabulous baked goods at Humpty Mick’s Cafe and Thompsons’ Store anyway …

If this is paradise, I don’t care if I never get to me* – but just to show I can be balanced about a place I really like, there ARE some things it DOESN’T have. Here’s a list:

Top 5 things Lord Howe Island doesn’t have:

1. Public Transport: Walk, cycle, or hire a car – but only if you can drive at 25 kph or less!

2. Cats: All cats, feral or domesticated, have now left the island. Some bird species are showing their gratitude by increasing their populations significantly!

3. Mobile Phones: Clearly not Telstra shareholders, an island referendum voted against them! My care factor? Zero!!

4. Crime: Although I could be wrong about this. We DID see a couple of cyclists without helmets – could this be the start of an unprecedented crime wave???

5. Snakes: WOO HOO! Yeah!! ALL Right!!! Walk without fear in that long grass!!!!

My arty sunset shot!
My arty sunset shot!

And don’t think for one tiny instant you’ve heard the last from me about this magical, wondrous island and my new favourite place – I’ll be boring you rigid showcasing its delights in future posts so be warned look out for them soon!!

If you can’t wait for more, check out the best flights right now!

Want MORE?

# Pic by Pilchard
* Apologies to Charlene

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