Catchya at Copley!*

We leaped from the car and hit the ground running as a convoy of 4WDs pulled into the car park behind us. Car doors slammed. They were gaining on us, but we were still a few vital seconds ahead as we slid through the door and reached the counter first.

And that’s exactly where I needed to be to score one of the Quandong Café’s legendary quandong pies this late in the day.

Play fair? No way! Because if I missed out, things would’ve gotten UGLY. So as the wave of humanity washed up around me, I deployed my secret weapon.

That’s what ‘elbows’ are for, right?’

540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide and deep in the South Australian Outback isn’t where you’d normally expect to find an oasis of civilisation.  After all, it’s the driest place in the driest state of the driest continent on earth

But the small town of Copley is no ordinary place. The Copley Caravan Park managers (and café owners!) made it easy to base ourselves there for a few days to discover its hidden secrets.  Like us, you might just find that the longer you stay, the longer you WANT to stay!

Not just to sample those fine quandong pies again. Or check out the array of Outback Scenic Loos!

Here’s a few of my favourite Copley things to do in a handy 4-9 Day itinerary.  Look out for the *STAY Another Day! signs for optional extra days if you’d like to extend your stay!

You’re welcome!!

Day 1: Explore Copley

Aroona Dam Sanctuary

I never saw the ‘before’ picture.

Back in the 1990’s, a 200+ person community project turned 44 km² of once-degraded bushland around the 5000 megalitre Aroona Dam into a Sanctuary. So now all you’ll see is the ‘after’ picture – the stunning scenery of the northern Flinders Ranges AND a scenic Aussie Loo!

All this makes the sanctuary a cool place to hang out, have a picnic, take a walk and spot the wildflowers. If you get lucky, you could also spot one of the yellow-footed rock wallabies reintroduced into the area.

The Retention Dam

It’s a tough choice between fishing and bird-watching so at the Retention Dam just out of town heading north.  So it’s just as well you can do BOTH.

Or neither!

Climb Flat Top

It’s big. It’s RED. It’s just out of town – and visible from pretty much everywhere in Copley. And if you can’t work out what the locals call a small mountain with its top sliced off, you’re just not trying.

Welcome to Flat Top (see photo above). There’s no marked walking track, but don’t let that stop you – the views from the top are sensational! Not that energetic? Walk around below it. Not THAT energetic? Sit out the front of the cafe and watch everyone else walking up or around it!!

Find the Head

To really experience the environment in which towns like this survive, drive up into the ranges west of Copley.

Better still, stop the car and take a walk along these remote country roads.

Expect a surprising array of wildflowers (in season), a starkly beautiful Outback landscape full of amazing colour, and a different perspective of Copley from the lookout point high above.

And the HEAD. But only if you get REALLY lucky

Day 2: THREE Iconic Aussie Tracks in ONE DAY!

Yes, you CAN drive the Strzelecki, Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks in a day. And you don’t need a special rig, or even a 4WD to do it!

No, REALLY – as long as you don’t expect to actually drive the full length of each track, that is! But you can visit each starting point, and you can easily do it in one day from Copley.

AND see a lot of other great Outback attractions along the way.

Lyndhurst

Just 33 km north of Copley, you’ll find a bush philosopher’s gallery, an unexpected lake and famous bushranger Captain Starlight’s legacy.  They’re all wrapped up in the tiny town of Lyndhurst.

Drive out onto the Strzelecki Track’s tyre-shredding rock and stone ‘road’.  You’re now on the original route Harry Readford – aka Captain Starlight – used to drive 1000 stolen cattle from Queensland to Lyndhurst.

MORE about Lyndhurst and the Ochre Pits HERE

PS Don’t miss the scenic public loo!

Ochre Pits

Want a great sunset shot?

Then leave the Ochre Pits a few kilometres north of Lyndhurst for the return trip to Copley. The late afternoon sun makes the amazing colours of this Indigenous heritage site glow.  Like this.

Farina – The Back-of-Beyond Bakery

I couldn’t believe my luck when I saw the ‘Bakery Now Baking’ sign on the side of the dusty road just 24 km north of Lyndhurst. It HAD to be an antique. Didn’t it?

Actually, no. You CAN combine outback travel with FAAAAABULOUS food!

How? Because in an astonishingly civilised move by the Farina Restoration Society, Farina’s derelict Bakery was the first building in this historic ghost town to be reconstructed. Now it operates for around 8 weeks a year raising funds to restore more of the Farina historic site.

Wander the open air museum, strolling the walking tracks or visiting the campground’s scenic loo combined with awesome goods baked on the premises.  That’s a killer way to make history fun.

And it’s all the better for knowing my significant personal contribution to the bakery fundraiser will account for a LOT more upgrades!!

MORE about Farina Bakery HERE

*STAY Another Day – Day #5! Return to Farina and book the 3-4 hour Farina Springs tour.  Travel in the Farina Station 4WD or Tag-along – the bakery will still be there when you get back!

Marree and the Postal Delivery Route from Hell

If you can tear yourself away from the fleshpots of Farina and drive another 45 km up the road, you’ll find remote outback town Marree.  It’s at the end of the Old Ghan railway line and start of the legendary Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks.

Actually, ‘legend’ is a word that’s used a lot around Marree.

Especially about Tom Kruse, the (legendary) outback mailman.  His (legendary) adventures delivering mail along the 517 km of rocks, sand dunes and gibbers that make up the (legendary) Birdsville track in his (legendary) Leyland Badger Truck were immortalised in a (legendary) movie “The Back of Beyond”.

Experience the legend yourself, at least for a few minutes. Drive a short way along the Oodnadatta and Birdsville tracks which, together with Lyndhurst’s Strzelecki, mean you’ve travelled on three legendary Aussie roads.

In ONE DAY!

MORE about Marree HERE

Now all you have to do is drive back to Copley. The setting sun should be lighting up the Ochre Pits right around now

*STAY Another Day – Day #6! Drive back to Marree, then have a longer experience on the Birdsville Track and drive about 50 km to Clayton Station.

*STAY Another Day – Day #7! Alternatively, take a drive on Witchellina Nature Reserve. Three 4WD nature drives show you the rugged outback at its best.

Day 3: Wilderness Adventure

Saying Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is an eco-adventure wonderland is a bit like saying Uluru is quite a big rock.

There are the painted hills surrounding the tourist village and stunningly scenic hikes through amazing gorges and chasms.  Super-challenging 4WD tracks through wild mountain ranges and historic sites and astronomical marvels courtesy of unpolluted skies.  Arkaroola is a total outdoor adventure package surrounded by the best collection of geological marvels in Australia.

Yes, it’d take more than just a day trip to see all THAT!

But if you want to see the very BEST of Arkaroola and you’ve only got a day to spare, then book in to the AMAZING Ridge-top Tour.  It’s a 4.5 hour drive to Sillers Lookout through rugged ranges on rough tracks in a purpose built 4WD tour vehicle. Be warned though – to do this in a day, you’ll have to leave early to get there in time! But it’s SO worth it!

MORE about Arkaroola’s Ridge-top Tour HERE!

Luckily, Arkaroola has its own campground with powered and unpowered sites. But if your rig’s not up to the 130 km all-weather dirt road east of Copley, leave it at the Copley Caravan Park and stay in one of the lodges or cabins. And if your vehicle isn’t up to it, leave that at Copley as well and hire a 4WD!

MORE about Arkaroola HERE

*STAY Another Day – Day 8! The road to Arkaroola can be an interesting day trip in itself.  There are Indigenous Cultural tours run by the local Adnyamathanha people at Iga Warta, Italowie Gorge walking trail and picnic area, views over Lake Frome and Grindells Hut in the Gammon Ranges.

Day 4: History and Heritage

As we sped, bouncing and bumping over a stretch of road so rocky I was practically levitating, I felt grateful for just one thing.

Praise be we weren’t travelling in OUR car!

But our travelling companion’s 4WD managed the drive south of Copley without mishap. As we drove a network of dirt tracks through the stunning northern Flinders Ranges, we explored some significant sites in South Australia’s colonial history.

Puttapa Gap

You won’t see anything much just driving through the gap where the old Transcontinental Railway line once ran through the ranges en route to Beltana.

Stop the car and discover some of the old structures around the rock cutting and the classic outback country through which it once ran.

Beltana

Shifting the railway line a few kilometres away was the end of the viability of State Heritage Area town Beltana, built in 1870. The town is still inhabited, but an interpretive trail leads past some of the remaining building ruins.  These include the old Dunesk Mission building with links to the Rev. John Flynn, instrumental in founding the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Sliding Rock

22 km further on along that rocky stretch of road above is the ruins of a copper ore mine at Sliding Rock.  It’s got the only combination loo/visitor information depot I’ve EVER seen in OZ!

This remote State Heritage listed site with its duelling chimneys – one round (Cornish) and one square (Welsh) – hunks of copper ore and picturesque setting is a great place to explore.

*STAY Another Day – Day 9! Return to Sliding Rock and keep going to the privately owned Warraweena Conservation Park with its own campground and series of self-drive 4WD tracks.

SO … with its amazing array natural attractions, small towns, historic sites, hikes, self-drive tours, wildflowers, scenic loos AND the opportunity for Bakery mega-overload, Copley just might be the ultimate accessible Outback destination!

FAST FACTS

• Where:  Copley is 540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide in the Northern Flinders Ranges
• Stay:  Copley Caravan Park, or nearby Leigh Creek Caravan Park.  Other campgrounds are at Lyndhurst, Farina, Marree, Arkaroola, Warraweena
• When:  The best time to travel is from May to October when temperatures are cooler and more attractions are open
• How to get there:  Self Drive is the best option.

Want MORE?

• Copley Caravan Park
• South Australia’s Outback
• MORE Copley Photos on Flickr

*The phrase “Catchya at Copley” is from the excellent tourist brochure produced by the Copley Caravan Park.

The post Catchya at Copley! Things to Do and See in Outback South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

A week on Norfolk Island should give you just enough time to realise that a week on Norfolk Island isn’t nearly long enough.

Whether or not you’re an amateur photographer/twitcher duo like us, on the prowl for amazing natural attractions, unusual birds (feathered) and scenic loos in exotic locations, chances are you won’t be able to fit it all in.

So instead of busting a gut trying to see and do absolutely everything, try a few of my 10 favourite things to do and leave yourself time for some R&R!

1 See the Island the Local way

I might not have been the youngest person on our island orientation tour – but my relative youth sure made it easy for me to a) hear what the driver was saying; b) identify and board the correct tour bus when more than one was parked at

the same location; and c) hit the lead in the race for the afternoon tea scones with Guava Jelly and cream.

Score!

The half-day tour came free with our booking, but I’d gladly have paid for what turned out to be an excellent introduction to the island’s history, points of interest, local characters and the challenges faced by a smallish group of people living on an isolated hunk of rock in the middle of nowhere.

More specifically 1770 km (1100 miles) north-east of Sydney, 1448 km (900 miles) east of Brisbane; 1126 km (700 miles) north-west of Auckland and 804 km (500 miles) south-east of Noumea.

Starting at the main settlement of Burnt Pine, we took in a superb cross-section of attractions – lookouts, convict ruins, jetties, rugged cliffs, a battleship, an old chapel, whaling station – all served up with spectacular scenery, and a teaser for things we wanted to see in more detail at our leisure.

How I got lucky!

But afternoon tea was where I REALLY got lucky. Because that’s where I found ‘Ask a Silly Question’, a booklet full of hilariously dumb questions tourists have asked local tour guide Max Hobbins.

Such as: ‘Is the Island surrounded by water?’ and ‘What colour is the native Green Parrot?’ and ‘If the Island has such a low crime rate, why do you have electric fences?’

Five minutes later I purchased it, eyes streaming with tears of laughter. And in another blinding piece of luck, the checkout operator introduced me to the author, there on another tour, and I asked him to sign my book.

Score!

I just hope none of the questions I asked him will make it into a future edition!

2 Norfolk’s TOP Spot

Getting to the top of Norfolk Island’s second-highest mountain isn’t too taxing. Just hop in the car and follow the signs to Mount Pitt – 318 metres above sea level, and with an almost 360° panorama from the lookout.

When the supply ship Sirius ran aground offshore many years ago depriving the islanders of food, the easy-to-catch petrels nesting on the Mt Pitt summit saved the colony from starvation with an estimated 170,000 killed and eaten. Unsurprisingly, despite being named ‘Providence Petrel’, the birds no longer return to their old nesting spot.

So the birds-eye view from Mt Pitt across to Phillip Island where the petrels have started to make a come-back in nesting season is likely to be the closest you’ll come to seeing one.

Getting to the island’s highest point takes a bit more effort. Follow the ups and downs of the Summit track through lush rainforest full of more endemic bird species like Pacific Robin, and past World War II memorabilia. After what I’m told is only 500 metres (although it seemed a lot more to me!) you’ll reach the Mount Bates summit, at 319 metres above sea level, the highest point on the island.

But only if you think it’s worth gaining a metre in altitude and losing a lot of the view!

3 Hit Bedrock

In an island full of extraordinary experiences, stunning scenery and fabulous food, the Bedrock Café enthusiastically serves up all three.

Perched on the edge of the Duncombe Bay cliffs with several hundred kilometres of ocean in front of you, the café setting is, for my money, one of Australia’s most spectacular dining locations.

And if you’re a keen birdo, it’s really the only place to be if you want to fit in a Great Frigate bird sighting or two between courses. Where even great food like the egg curry and coconut beef; followed by pear cake and passionfruit tart we had wasn’t distracting enough to prevent binocular and camera overuse syndrome …

4 Green Parrot: one of the World’s Rarest Birds

I SO get that birding isn’t for everyone.

But Norfolk Island’s prime position in the middle of freakin’ nowhere makes it a top birding site for sea birds not normally seen on the mainland AND birds not seen anywhere else on earth!

Even if you’re not a birder, the dense rainforest, scenic lookouts and ever-present Norfolk Island Pines are so spectacular it’s a pleasure just to hike one or more of the many trails in the Botanic Gardens and National Park, covering a third of the island.

Walk the park and you’re right in the rare Green Parrot’s habitat. In the early 1990’s only 4 breeding females remained until an intervention program increased the number to about 200-400 thus saving them from extinction AND ensuring a steady stream of twitchers* visit the island.

Camouflage!

If you think it’d be easy to spot a bright green bird with accents of vivid red and blue in the forest, then think again. Remember – there’s only a few hundred scattered throughout a pretty big park full of green vegetation studded with the red palm berries and cherry guavas the parrots like to eat so spotting one can be challenging.

After a couple of unsuccessful searches during the week, we gave it one last go on the day we departed, just before we had to leave for the airport.

Turns out all we had to do was drive up the road from our accommodation to the Palm Circuit Track trailhead, where we spotted one nonchalantly eating guavas. Too easy!!

5 Captain Cook’s Lookout

The surf thundered and crashed, boiling around the jagged rocks of the Northern Islets far below. Sea birds soared through the haze, thick with salt spray as the surf pounded the rocky shore at the base of the towering cliffs.

Call me a lily-livered acrophobic** landlubber, but you’d have to be mad to try to come ashore right here. Wouldn’t you??

So what does that make Captain James Cook? According to his ship’s log, he’s thought to have landed somewhere along the stretch of coastline below my vantage point when he ‘discovered’ the island back in 1774.

But mad or not, the Captain Cook Lookout (as it is now known) is now a fine place to have a picnic, or just hang out and admire the view (including a FINE scenic loo!), spot the sea birds and take a hike along the Bridle Track.

6 A Hundred Acres of Wood

It’s just as well I thought the ancient Moreton Bay Fig trees lining the road and entrance to the Hundred Acre Reserve deserved more than a quick drive-through. If I hadn’t walked back for yet another tedious photo session (by standards other than mine) I wouldn’t have seen the tiny White Tern chick perched at knee height on the buttress.

I can’t guarantee you’ll get lucky at the fig trees like I did. But stop there anyway to take the track through an almost endless forest of Norfolk Island Pines to Rocky Point, where there’s a better than average chance you WILL get lucky!

With killer coastal scenery, sunsets and sea bird sightings, of course.

7 DOWN to Anson Bay Beach

If not for the track zig-zagging down the sheer cliffs to the stunningly scenic sliver of sub-tropical sand below, Anson Bay Beach would likely have been totally deserted.

While the more popular Emily Bay with its easy-access road, swimming pontoon and scenic loo gets more people AND more press, Anson Bay Beach is a picturesque paradise.  Annd another fine opportunity to practice managing your photo overuse syndrome!

I already had a full blown case of it by Day 3.

Anywhere else, it’d be tempting to pack a picnic, a boogie board, swimmers and fishing gear for a big day out. But the thought of the LOOOOOOONG long climb back up the cliff road at the end of the day is an instant crash course in how to pare back those ‘necessities’ to just a swimsuit.

And a camera!

8 One Helluva History – the Museum Crawl

Unbelievably, the public amenities weren’t listed as items of interest in the 53 numbered museums, buildings, sites and artefacts in the Australian Convict Sites visitor guide to the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale area.

It must have been because of the area’s World Heritage status. Because it’d be just as unbelievable that I’d be the only one interested in potential Scenic Public loos***. Wouldn’t it?

But whether or not you include the facilities, the site represents all four very different periods of Norfolk settlement. It’s a fascinating journey starting with the Polynesians way, WAY back to 1150 CE followed by two separate periods of Convict habitation between 1788-1855. Then the present day community was formed when a group of Pitcairn Islanders, descendants of the Bounty mutineers, resettled here in 1856.

The loos are just a bonus!

9 360° of Art and History

Don’t get me wrong.

Nothing does it for me quite like travelling. BUT … every now and then, after a few days of relentless exploring and experiencing and excitement, it all gets a bit too exhausting.

But taking a day off to just do nothing doesn’t work for me either.

And that’s when I wish for a bite-sized package of cultural, natural and historic experiences to do me for the day. Kind of like a LITE version.

Norfolk LITE!

Luckily, Norfolk’s LITE version is an easy-access mixture of history, art and culture wrapped up in a stunning and remarkably detailed 360° painting – the Cyclorama – depicting key points in the island’s history.

Weirdly, the ‘no photos’ rule didn’t bother me a bit! I can’t recall the last time I wandered around without considering photo angles and lighting, or wishing my photographic skills were a bit more advanced!

So here’s a completely gratuitous photo of something else!

10 Selwyn Cottage

Booking a place to stay sight unseen can be risky when you haven’t even seen your destination, let alone the accommodation options. But it turns out we didn’t have to worry.

Because with Selwyn Cottage we REALLY lucked out!

With a private garden so fine we could have spent the whole week there, this standalone cottage in a quiet suburb close to the National Park and township was the perfect retreat after a hard day on the sightseeing trail.

Factor in the facilities, island hospitality and personal touches that made Selwyn Cottage a home away from home, and this family run haven will be where we stay when we return! Even if we have to plan our holiday around it

And here’s an extra one for nothing!  You’re welcome …

11 The one that got away – Philip Island

I really Really REALLY wanted to go to Philip Island.

The ‘Uluru of the South Pacific’, as it is described in a tourist brochure, is six kilometres south of Norfolk Island with a distinctive shape and colour visible from almost every vantage point.

Once stocked with feral animals for sport and food during penal settlement days, the degraded environment is now being rehabilitated after an eradication program. It’s a haven for rare plants, sea birds and at least five reptiles and invertebrates found nowhere else on earth. Visitors are warned about a hazardous landing and steep, rocky track complete with ropes! Who could resist?

But it’s not that easy to get there – adverse weather conditions and heavy seas during our stay meant the tour wasn’t running so we MISSED OUT!

And so the most important question of all remains unanswered. Is there, or is there not, a SUPER scenic public loo?

My TOP Ten Teaser isn’t the definitive guide to Norfolk Island.  There’s a LOT more to see and do and I can’t wait to go there again! See you there??

Want MORE?

• Norfolk Island Official Website
• More Norfolk Island Photos on Flickr

* Twitcher = bird watcher with a penchant for rare and/or unusual birds

** Acrophobia = fear of heights

*** If you’re wondering why the obsession with loos, then check out my book HERE!

The post My TOP 10 Favourite things to do on Norfolk Island appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either.

I checked my watch. Only 10:30 am and we were done with the driving for the day.

Damn! How did I turn into a Grey Nomad* without noticing?!

The Victoria River – Australia’s WILDEST – is over 200 km (~120 miles) of sensational scenery, rugged ranges and wall to wall crocodiles. And as well as spectacular natural attractions, the region has an intriguing blend of Indigenous, Colonial and Military history. We’d seen part of the area the day before at the Victoria River Roadhouse.

So the bonus of arriving so early meant loads of time to explore the rest.

Just as well, because there’s a helluva lot to see!

1 The Crocodiles

Pilchard and I saw more crocodiles in two days than in all our previous crocodile sightings combined. And when I add all the crocs we’ve seen since then? This town’s still WAY out in front.

Crocodiles don’t actually go to heaven – they just head north to Timber Creek!

Because if you’re a crocodile, what’s NOT to love about Timber Creek?

If you’re a freshie**, hang out in the creek behind the caravan park and get fed by a gaggle of tourists EVERY NIGHT!

And if you’re a saltie*** the Victoria River is a croc-heaven takeaway with cattle from the stations, wallabies and other wildlife feeding along the banks, and boatloads of barramundi fisherfolk who make catching a big one for dinner REALLY easy!

PLEASE NOTE: Practice crocodile safety on and near waterways. All my crocodile photos were taken from a croc-proof boat and pontoon on the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise!

2 Cruising Australia’s Wildest River

There’s something about eating a sensational array of snacks and enjoying a drink while watching a superb sunset sink into a crocodile-infested river. Something that makes you want to – well, YOU know!

So where DO you go when nature calls and you’re surrounded by crocodiles on Australia’s wildest river? To one of Australia’s most scenic and unusual toilets, of course!

Yes, it’s in MY BOOK (click right HERE to got there)!

The pontoon potty is just one (VERY good) reason to take the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise. It’s a 3 hour 70 kilometre journey into the heart of the Top End with local guide Neville Fogarty in his purpose built croc proof boat – the Fleetwing – to a pontoon perfectly positioned to showcase the sights.

And see as many crocodiles as you’re likely to see anywhere outside a crocodile farm!

(BONUS EXTRA: Read about Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River HERE)

3 History and Heritage

The Crocodile cruise isn’t just about the crocs. Before we get anywhere near the river, we’ve had a mini-town tour, fascinating history lesson, and a pit stop at the local museum. But the croc cruise gets back after sunset, so we stay another day to see what we’ve missed.

I didn’t know anything about how to take fingerprints correctly until I entered the heritage listed Police Station Museum, also home to other quirky memorabilia like a Furphy; and a kangaroo hide bed where Neville Fogarty (croc tour man) apparently once slept!

But reminders of more shameful past episodes are in the shackle and chain for Aboriginal prisoners still attached to a tree, and the holding cell in the front yard.

And who knew about the Nackeroos, ‘Bush Commandos’ with a platoon stationed at Timber Creek after the Top End was bombed by the Japanese during World War Two? I certainly didn’t, but the escarpment memorial tells of the hardships faced in defending Australia’s coastline in this wild and remote area, and the great respect for the skills of the local Aboriginal people working with and as part of the Nackeroos.

But the Nackeroos weren’t the last of the military activity in the area …

4 The Bridge to Nowhere

If you’ve seen the super-highway-like Bridge to Nowhere spanning the Victoria River you’re probably questioning my judgement about recommending it as a Timber Creek attraction.

Especially if I say the bridge was a highlight of our visit!

The bridge doesn’t REALLY go to nowhere – it just goes to nowhere the average person is allowed to go ie the Bradshaw Field Training Area. If in any doubt about entering, there’s a few handy hints that’ll make your unwelcomeness perfectly clear.

Like the massive gate with padlocks and spikes.

And the four separate signs with different messages that make even a croc seem friendly.

Cool, huh?!

But quite apart from anything else, the bridge – across which you’re quite welcome to walk – is one of the best places from which to appreciate the grandeur of the Victoria River!

5 Judbarra/Gregory National Park

When I first saw the Gregory Tree, it was overlooking a crocodile from high on the banks of the Victoria River.

I was checking out the same crocodile from just above the waterline on the croc-proof cruiser. I’m not sure who had the best view, but there were no crocs in sight when I saw the tree up close the next day.

It’s just part of the 13000² km Gregory National Park, named for explorer Augustus Charles Gregory, whose expedition passed through in the mid 1800’s. And although graffitti artist Gregory left the travel dates inscribed on the tree, it’s considered ‘historic’, rather than vandalism! There’s nothing to say how the local Ngaringman Aboriginal people felt about Gregory defacing the tree – it’s also registered as a sacred site.

We explored the eastern section of the park the day before from the Victoria River Roadhouse, 90 km east. Don’t miss the fantastic Joe Creek walk through Livistona Palms, and the amazing view from the Escarpment Lookout.

The western section extends quite a long way south of Timber Creek, with 4WD tracks to the old station homestead, gorges campgrounds and fishing spots. The tracks even join up with the Buntine Highway, an alternative route into Western Australia – which isn’t that far away from Timber Creek!

Tragically, the only part of the western section I saw was the Gregory Tree – but that’s what ‘next time’ is for, right?

(BONUS Extra: Read about the Joe Creek Walk and Escarpment Lookout HERE!)

Timber Creek may be small but has a LOT of attractions that make it a TOP Aussie Town!. So if you’re thinking of giving it a miss, think again and get there early – because sometimes acting like a grey nomad pays off!

5 things to do in Timber Creek on an overnight stay:

• Crocodile Cruise on the Victoria River
• Drive to Policemans Point Lookout
• Walk the Heritage Trail
• Watch the Sunset from the Escarpment Lookout
• Feed the Crocodiles at the Circle F Caravan Park

5 more things to do in Timber Creek:

• Tour the Historic Police Station Museum
• Cross the Victoria River on the Bridge to Nowhere
• Drive out to the Gregory Tree
• See Limestone Gorge in Gregory National Park’s western section
• Walk Joe Creek and the Escarpment Lookout trails near Victoria River Roadhouse in Gregory National Park’s eastern section

Timber Creek Fast Facts!

Where: Timber Creek is ~285 km west of Katherine; 90 km west of the Victoria River Roadhouse; 225 km east of Kununurra on the Victoria Highway.

When to Go: Temperatures are lower with less humidity during the Dry season from June to November. 4WD tracks and other attractions are closed during the Wet Season when rains commence around December and re-open around May depending on the amount of rain.

Where to Stay: We stayed at the Circle F Caravan Park attached to Fogarty’s Store and the Timber Creek Hotel, also with cabins and motel accomodation. The Big Horse campground is near the boat ramp. Gregory National Park has several campgrounds.

What’s There: Timber Creek facilities include accommodation, fuel, food, banking, vehicle repairs, emergency medical services and an airstrip.

*In our experience of travelling with the Southern Grey Nomad, we’ve observed that they’re often at their destination by lunch time. The rest of the day is spent setting up and preparing for happy hour! That’s not a criticism – it’s just the way it is – but such a short travel time meant that maybe, just MAYBE we were becoming more like them :-O

** Freshies = Freshwater crocodiles, the smaller, less aggressive Crocodylus johnstoni

*** Salties = Saltwater crocodiles (aka estuarine crocodiles), the much larger, VERY much more aggressive Crocodylus porosus

Want MORE?

• Timber Creek
• Victoria River Cruises
• Judbarra/Gregory National Park
• More about the Nackeroos
• MORE Photos of the Victoria River Region on Flickr

Previous Post: World Toilet Day: Red’s TOP 10 Scenic Aussie Loos

The post 5 Reasons why Timber Creek is a TOP Aussie Town! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I don’t know if anyone ever struck it rich in the old days – or even the new days – by hitting a seam of opal while sinking a dugout dunny shaft.

But if it’s going to happen anywhere, the chances of it happening in Andamooka are better than average.

As long as the hole is at least 3 metres deep. That’s when it’ll hit the ancient and now opal-ridden seabed* lying beneath the surface of one of the driest parts of the driest state of the driest continent on earth.

But maybe that’s what makes Andamooka opal – a variety found only here – the most stable matrix opal in the world. The Queen’s Opal was found in Andamooka – a large piece cut and polished to over 200 carats, then made into several pieces of jewellery presented to Queen Elizabeth II, now part of the Crown Jewels.

Although there’s no record of whether or not the stone was found in a dunny shaft!

Every photo of Andamooka I’d ever seen before shows an arid outback landscape. But as the state’s resident rainmakers** en route to the warm and sunny northern winter, we’d arrived in Woomera the evening before in the middle of a rainstorm and steady rain that continued throughout the night.

So I’m still wondering what it’s like to be dry in one of the driest parts of the driest state of the driest continent on earth. The rain continued on and off through the uninspiring terrain along the 85+ km (53 miles) stretch of sealed road from Woomera to Roxby Downs, and then the 30 km (18.6 miles) to Andamooka where the one sealed road carried enough mud to turn it into a virtual dirt (read: mud) road!

But that’s where the exploration gene paid off. BIG time.

I noticed a familiar shape through the raindrops. Hang on – was that REALLY a dunny I saw before me?

Andamooka’s Historical Reserve preserves a number of early dwellings built – or more accurately, compiled – after discovery in 1930 of some of the finest Aussie Opal in the world. Which anyone who’s ever studied Australian history won’t need ME to tell them was also the time of the Great Depression.

Lack of money and an almost tree-free landscape made early opal miners inventive with building materials; and the summer heat – clocked at 46 degrees C (~115 degrees F) – forced many buildings – dugouts – partially underground.

But however rough and ready the structures and difficult the conditions in this remote Outback outpost nearly 600km (373 miles) north of Adelaide, Andamooka’s dunnies gave the opal fields a touch of civilisation. One dwelling built on three levels even had an outside dunny clearly visible through the window from the inside dunny! Luxury!!

Perhaps more important, however, position and placement meant the miner could keep an eye on the action while answering nature’s call.

Although Andamooka Opal was first discovered after a rare thunderstorm, tragically history didn’t repeat itself on our visit – leaving me without another precious piece of Australia’s national gem. And while I didn’t look very hard, nor did I find anything worth keeping down the dunny!

The muddy roads also nixed a visit either the opal fossicking area or the nearby (normally) dry salt lake Lake Torrens.

BUT … it’s probably appropriate that my only real tourist experience in Andamooka involved Scenic Aussie Loos!!

Yes, it’s unknown (to me, at least) whether anyone ever got rich from finding opal in a dunny shaft.

But I’d like to think that somewhere out there, never recorded in the Andamooka annals, is an opal miner who struck it lucky while digging out a dunny.

Because that’d make Andamooka’s classic Aussie Outback loo view one of the most valuable in the world!

* Much of the information in this post came from a tourist brochure about the Andamooka Opal Fields, compiled by Anne Louise Potter and Trevor Peek in November 2009

** It rains so often when we visit a new place that Pilchard & I are considering hiring ourselves out as drought-breakers! Call me!!

Want MORE?

• More about Andamooka, South Australia 
• Opal Hotspots in Australia
• More Australian Scenic Public Toilets
• MY BOOK: ‘Aussie Loos with Views!’
• More Andamooka and South Australian Outback Photos on Flickr

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The post Dugouts, Dirt and Dunnies! 3 reasons to visit Andamooka, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I’m always on the lookout for unusual Aussie places. But staying in a Tuberculosis Sanatorium SO wasn’t on my radar.

Even if it DID have a staggeringly scenic loo and a killer view of the Heysen Range in South Australia’s Northern Flinders Ranges.

Angorichina Tourist Village – ‘Ango’ to the locals – about half-way along the 30 km (19 mile) stretch of dirt road between Parachilna and South Australia’s highest town Blinman is one of those rare places with a little bit of everything. Built after World War 1 as a retreat for servicemen with tuberculosis, it’s got one of Australia’s most picturesque campgrounds.

AND gave us the chance to practice our mud-running skills when the rain that started a couple of hours before we left turned the road from gravel to a miry dirt soup!

Here’s what WE got up to at Ango!

Nuccaleena Mine and Glass Gorge

Sliding down a treacherously steep scree-covered slope awash with potentially toxic mine site leavings from the century before last could have been responsible.

Or perhaps lurching sideways to (unsuccessfully) avoid the sharp rocks littering the embankment AND (sucessfully) avoiding the gaping adit* directly below them might have done the trick.

Either way, I’d ripped the seat out of my jeans and had a prickle in my bum.

The bad luck that plagued what is arguably Australia’s least successful mine – investments of over £57,000 with a return of only £13,000 – had clearly rubbed off on me!

But Nuccaleena isn’t just a long-deserted copper mine site with a transferrable death wish – it’s at the end of a remote 4WD Public Access Route** with enough rugged road, creek crossings, tyre-shredding rocks, erosion AND killer scenery photo stops to make the last 14 km (8.7 miles) of the 36 km (22 miles) drive from Angorichina Village take nearly an hour of fun-filled 4WD fantasy!

For those like us with less clearance and less experience in the Boys Own Adventure art of Four Wheel Driving, that is.

It’s hard to imagine a full scale mining operation in this remote spot despite a number of building ruins, an 85 metre (279 feet) long tunnel (a trap for dead kangaroos) and stunning scenery all around. It’s all great fun to explore – if you’re alert to mine shafts, falling rocks, rotting wood and slippery slopes. And stray Spinifex!

But the odds of YOU ending up with a piece of spinifex embedded in YOUR derriére are much reduced if you choose NOT to use my tried and tested mountainside descent method …

Return the same way, or drive a scenic loop via Glass Gorge and Blinman to Angorichina, 47 km (29 miles) from Nuccaleena.

MORE about Nuccaleena Mine

Blinman Pools Hike

I’m not sure who owned the Reg Grundys*** sodden and forgotten on the rocks of Blinman Creek. And I didn’t want to think how they got there! But the smart money was on one of the hot young blokes in the school group who trotted past us en route to Blinman Pools. As they passed, one of the responsible adults confided that the boys were keen for a swim despite the nearly sub-zero winter temperature of the water.

The even smarter money said it wasn’t ME they were trying to impress.

Hiker information about the 10 km (6.2 mile) return hike from Angorichina Village to the first pool describes the walk as ‘challenging’, with multiple creek crossings, rock-hopping, some steep climbs (ie up a waterfall) and a sometimes unmarked track.

Despite that, finding the first pool is a no-brainer – just keep walking up the dry creek bed! Interesting rock formations, gorges, cliffs, an island, pools, wildlife and a waterfall make this a varied and interesting hike.

The second pool is only another kilometre upstream, but we gave it a miss left it for next time. I took 2 ¾ hours (with MANY photo and exploratory stops) to walk the 5 km upstream; and 2 hours to return – possibly because the track was easier to find while walking downstream!

The hot young things were long gone by the time I returned to Ango. No one gets to challenge ME for my title of Australia’s slowest hiker! But I’m still wondering if the hapless owner of the Reg Grundys underestimated the effect near-freezing water would have on his ability to impress the girls?!?!

MORE about Blinman Pools Hike

Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China

If you’re looking for the longest man-made structure in the world snaking across the landscape for hundreds of kilometres and reportedly visible from the moon, you’ll probably be disappointed with Mount Emily’s Great Wall of China. For the real thing, spend the bucks and head overseas.

But for the all-natural Aussie cheapskate version, take the road to Hawker for about 15 km (9.3 miles) south of Blinman (29 km from Ango), and check out Mt Emily!! It’s one of quite a few natural rock formations downunder with the words ‘Great’, ‘China’ and ‘Wall’ in their names – no one accuses us Aussies of overactive imaginations in the place-name stakes!

Mt Emily’s a great spot to have lunch especially with a traditional Cornish pasty (watch out for the dessert at one end) and/or Quandong Pie (trust me – get BOTH!) from the excellent Blinman General Store and Bakery.

Besides, the REAL Great Wall of China ISN’T the longest man-made structure on earth – that honour goes to the all-Australian Dingo Fence!

The Heysen Trail and Parachilna Gorge

The sun was getting very low in the sky as we headed out for a late afternoon stroll along the Heysen Trail – the iconic 1200 km hiking track through quite a LOT of South Australia. It starts (or ends) in Parachilna Gorge just a few kilometres west of Angorichina and ends (or starts!) in Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula.

1200 km was a bit far for a casual stroll, so we took the shorter 6 km return option – or would have if a case of terminal laziness and LOTS of photos hadn’t meant we didn’t make it to Parachilna Gorge at Wild Dog Creek****. But walking a short way along the trail through massive dry creek beds, along spinifex-laden slopes and between a staggering array of mountains meant I could channel the late, great artist Sir Hans Heysen OBE for whom the trail is named.

With photos, anyway – I’ll never be an artist!

It’s no accident that the Heysen Trail starts here, in Parachilna Gorge. Some of Sir Hans’ best known works – The Land of the Oratunga (1932); Aroona (1939); Patawarta , Land of the Oratunga (1929); In the Flinders Far North (1951); and The Three Sisters of Aroona (1927) were painted right here in the Northern Flinders Ranges.

Where even a non-artist like me is moved to attempt to capture the magnificent scenery at sunset in these photos all taken within just a kilometre or so from the trailhead. Luckily, we had a watertight excuse to get back – after dark, the road is awash with kangaroos!

MORE about Sir Hans Heysen 

MORE about the Heysen Trail

Blinman Mine Tour and Walking Trail

NIL = Amount of time spent by me channelling Cornish Miners in Australia before doing the Blinman Mine Tour.

That’s why I didn’t know what chipping out tunnels and stopes with a hammer, chisel and explosives, lit only with candles and protected only by a leather helmet inside the equivalent of an underground 50-odd storey building for 12 hours a day, 6 days a week felt like.

Praise be that I still don’t know what it REALLY feels like, but after an hour on the excellent Blinman Mine Tour and the 1 km self-guided interpretive walk around sections of the mine site above the surface, I had a pretty good idea.

And it’s not something I’m planning to willingly try any time soon

Unlike the Nuccaleena Mine, Blinman’s Mine Tour goes deep underground – which makes it MUCH easier to channel those Cornish miners, despite the hard helmets and lights the miners never had. And without the killer dust from the drilling, explosives and a few hundred miners jostling for position under the surface at any given time. And spending only 1/12 th of the time underground than the average miner spent on a shift.

Actually, perhaps it’s NOT that easy to channel a Cornish miner’s experience after all.

These days, with modern mining techniques and machinery, the section of the Blinman Mine that took 8 years to tunnel out would only take a couple of weeks. And while it’d leave a dirty great hole in the ground instead of the intricate network of shafts and stopes inside the Mine, the chances of modern day miners being affected by silicosis of the lungs, fatal injuries and unpleasant working conditions like their counterparts of yesteryear would be virtually NIL!

Contact The Blinman Mine Office for current prices (my July 2015 tour cost $27.50 for an adult ticket; there are concessions and cheaper prices for children and families.

MORE about Blinman and the Blinman Mine Tour 

Angorichina Fast Facts:

WHERE: 500 km north of Adelaide, South Australia.

HOW to get there: Travel north from Hawker to either Parachilna or Blinman. From Parachilna, turn right and travel for 15 km along a dirt road through Parachilna Gorge. From Blinman, turn left and travel for 14 km along a dirt road.

WHEN: Angorichina Tourist Village is closed in summer. The Heysen Trail is closed during the fire ban season from November to March.

WHAT’S THERE: Campground (powered & unpowered sites); Self-contained accommodation; General Store (supplies, alcohol, souvenirs); Workshop for minor repairs including tyres; Mountain bike hire.

Want MORE?

• Angorichina Tourist Village, Northern Flinders Ranges
• Flinders Ranges, South Australia 
• Flinders Ranges and Outback Touring Guide 
• MORE Angorichina Photos on Flickr HERE!

* Adit = Mine opening (as any crossword aficionado will tell you!)

** Public Access Route = a through track or road on private property on which permission to enter the property is not required

*** Reg Grundys = undies = underwear (Aussie rhyming slang!

**** Wild Dog = Dingo. Wild Dog Creek = one of the most common creek names in Australia!

The post 5 Amazing Angorichina Adventures! Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

If you’re passing through Lyndhurst when nature calls, you can’t miss this little Outback Beauty – it’s right on the highway next to the Lyndhurst town sign. That’s how I knew it couldn’t possibly have been there back in 2013 when I first went to Lyndhurst.

So after crossing my legs for 25 km (15.5 miles) while driving back from my second trip to the awesome Farina bakery, I just HAD to stop.

And not just so I could check it and its classic outback setting out as a possible contender for my as yet unwritten second book of Aussie Loos with Views (read about the FIRST one HERE), either!

Aussie towns don’t come much smaller or more Outback than Lyndhurst. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see – so if you’re stopping for a loo break, stay a bit longer and check out the other Lyndhurst attractions!

Like what? Like THESE!

Lyndhurst Personalities

Lyndhurst doesn’t need a Red Nomad OZ to put it on the map – it’s already got a pretty high per capita proportion of Aussie larrikins.

Like cattle duffer (read: bushranger) Harry Readford who drove 1000 head of stolen cattle from Longreach in Queensland through Lyndhurst to Marree in 1871, thus pioneering the modern day version of the Strzelecki Track. An amazing feat – not least to the jury at his trial who acquitted him, despite compelling evidence of his guilt. While he’s not from Lyndhurst, Harry certainly helped put it on the map, and his legend lives on in Captain Starlight – a character from classic Aussie novel ‘Robbery Under Arms’.

Modern day visitors won’t find Harry Readford, but they CAN find another legendary Aussie character at his talc sculpture gallery just out of town on the Innamincka Road.

Or not! For some unknown reason, Talc Alf wasn’t at his gallery the day we dropped by so you won’t hear from me whether or not his theories about the origins of the English alphabet are valid!

But as I’m possibly the only traveller to pass through Lyndhurst South Australia without meeting TA, you’ll find records of other encounters online. Click HERE for Dr Karl Kruszelnicki’s account of his encounter with Talc Alf!

And if TA’s nowhere in sight, meet a few locals at the Lyndhurst Hotel/Motel and Caravan Park or recently re-opened Roadhouse!

Railway History

Although the section of the Great Northern Railway aka ‘The Ghan’ that once made Lyndhurst an important freight centre no longer operates (a re-location 200 km (124 miles) to the west will do that!) some memorabilia remains.

And if you’re lucky enough to be travelling with a railway obsessive enthusiast, you’ll get to see it all!

If it’s not your lucky day, look out for the old siding and stock yards between the dunny and the pub, and the old track embankment and station sign out by Talc Alf’s gallery.

Once the town was established as the main railhead for stock transport, it soon expanded. But who needs a store and post office when summer temperatures regularly exceed 40° C (104° F)?

The pub is unlikely to have been built if not for the railway, but am I the only one to find the presence of the pub and absence of the railway ironic?

The Lake

A lake of this small size wouldn’t generally rate a mention anywhere else. But in a town with those killer temperatures – 46.3° C (115 F) on 6 Jan 2013 – I mentioned earlier? And an annual rainfall of around 232 mm (~9 inches)?

Down in a hollow behind near the old railway stock yards, the dam was a pleasant, albeit unexpected surprise. And all the more scenic for its dry and dusty setting!

The Strzelecki Track

To travel the Strzelecki Track, I’d need new tyres, spare parts, extra water, survival gear – actually, make that a whole new rig!

So even though driving this iconic Outback road-trip, once an Aboriginal trade trail, was off the agenda I still got a thrill from driving a little way (read: 1 km!) up the track.

The last fuel and facilities stop before Innamincka, nearly 500 km (310 miles) away, Lyndhurst’s position at the start (or is that the end?) of the Strzelecki Track makes it a scheduled stop for travellers from either up or down the track.

But with a surface like THIS (see above), just watch those tyres!

The Ochre Pits

The classic outback landscape around Lyndhurst can be stunning. But it’s at its most spectacular just 5 km (3 miles) north on the main highway at the Ochre Pits – especially in the late afternoon light.

Used for trade, ceremony, ornament, medicine, art and burial (according to the sign on site), ochre remains an important part of Aboriginal life and culture. Ochre from these pits was traded along what is now known as the Strzelecki Track – a route following the waterholes – meaning the site is protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act.

I’d seen Ochre Pits before – but never one this big, or with so many colours.

And against that amazing blue South Australian winter sky?

Awesome! Take a break and experience Lyndhurst’s main attractions on your trip north to Marree and the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks; South to the Flinders Ranges and Adelaide; or north-east along the Strzelecki Track to Innamincka!

FAST FACTS:

Where: 606 km (376 miles) north of Adelaide; 33 km (20.5 miles) north of nearest town Copley; and 80 km south of Marree.

When: Temperatures are very hot in summer (Dec-Feb) so travel is recommended for the cooler months

How to get there: Self-Drive. Lyndhurst South Australia has the last facilities before Innamincka, 500 km (310 miles) away up the Strzelecki Track.

Facilities: Food, Fuel, Accomodation, Camping facilities, Toilets, some supplies available from the Roadhouse and/or Lyndhurst Hotel. It’s also only 25 km north to the Farina ruins with its seasonal bakery!

Want MORE?

* Lyndhurst South Australia

* The Strzelecki Track

* Marree

* The Farina Bakery

* MORE Lyndhurst photos on Flickr

Oh! Nearly forgot. There’s one more thing to track down in Lyndhurst – its very own UFO!  Can YOU find it?

The post Larrikins, Landscapes and Loos! Lyndhurst South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

For an isolated city, rebuilt twice after being bombed (WWII) destroyed by a tropical cyclone (1974); regularly washed by massive 7 metre tides and monsoonal floods; and hosting a high proportion of dangerous and deadly wildlife; Darwin’s looking mighty fine these days.

At least to a fair-weather traveller like me – my visit was during the more activity-friendly dry season, when the average daily maximum temperature is only around 30º C! But there’s no shame in taking the easy way out, is there?

Whether you’ve road-tripped from Adelaide to Darwin, taken the train, or flown in, you’ll be ready for some tropical Darwin R&R! Here’s a teaser of 10 TOP things to do in Darwin – just to get you started!

1 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve

OK, Ok, ok. So you DON’T see the attraction of a crocodile, snake and mosquito-infested swamp? How about if I call it a wetland, teeming with wildlife?

Fogg Dam was so intriguing we visited twice. Once during the day for a walk across the dam wall, watching thousands of birds feed among the waterlilies. Climbing up into the vantage point on the dam’s far side gave an even better perspective – and the chance to cool down before returning across the wall.

And then we did the night walk. That’s when the crocs, snakes and mosquitoes made their appearance!

MORE about Fogg Dam

2 Territory Wildlife Park

I’ll always remember the Territory Wildlife Park, around 60 km south of Darwin, as the place where I caught my first barra. Barramundi, that is, and the prize craved by all true Aussie Fishermen. And women.

But if you think something’s wrong with this picture, you’re right … and you can get one just like it in exactly the same spot!

For a great day out and a chance to see the REAL creatures of the Territory in their natural (albeit well-constructed) habitats – like the Billabong, Nocturnal House and Aviaries – study the park’s schedule of activities – wild birds, croc feeding and the like – carefully. Then check the park’s bus timetables to get from venue to venue because this park is HUGE!

MORE about the Territory Wildlife Park

3 Australian Aviation Heritage Centre

I didn’t think I’d spend more than half an hour or so at the Aviation Museum – we were really only going in memory of Pilchard’s late father who’d been there a few years before and sung its praises. But 5 hours – and many intriguing facts – later, I was still going strong.

This is Australian aviation history at its best with a matching array of 19 aircraft (including one of only two B52 Bombers outside of the US); regular screenings of aviation videos; displays of historic aviation memorabilia; and information stations – I’d heard of Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson, but who’d ever heard of Jessie Maude ‘Chubbie’ Miller? Not me!  Now THERE’S a story waiting to be told …

I went in to the musuem not caring one way or another about planes. But I came out a newly-minted aviation nerd (well … almost!).

MORE about the Darwin Aviation Museum

4 Howard Springs and Berry Springs Nature Parks

The quest for shade and a place to go swimming is hardly surprising in a city that’s hot all year round. But factoring in the Top End’s natural swimming hazards – ie nasties like Crocodiles – shrinks the number of safe swimming spots considerably.

That’s why the shallow rock pools of Howard Springs Nature Park, 35 km south of the City; and the deeper pools of the Berry Springs Nature Park, ~60 km south, are so popular, especially with the added attractions of walks and picnic facilities.

MORE about Berry Springs Nature Park and Howard Springs Nature Park

5 George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

Although there are regular sightings of Rufous Owl in the 130 year old Darwin Botanic Gardens, we had to make do with its other attractions as the owls remained elusive during our visit.

Luckily, there’s a lot more to see in this well-planned and varied 42 hectare park stretching from the sea to a small escarpment, one of the few in the world with naturally occurring marine and estuarine plants.

A network of walking trails winds through habitats like Rainforest Gully, the Baobab Collection, the exotic flora of the Plant Display House, a former church, and a boardwalk through the Mangroves.

But for MY money, don’t miss the Desert Rose display! Awesome!!

MORE about the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

6 Aquascene and Doctor’s Gully

Spotting AND hand-feeding a frenzy of local fish (yes, that’s a new collective noun) in historic Doctor’s Gully at high tide is a sure thing. A tradition of hand-feeding for over 60 years old (Woo Hoo! WAAAY older than me!) means the fish continue turn up in ever increasing numbers – AND numbers of species – to forage for bread.

It’s not that hard with multiple tourists lining the shores at high tide. The fish ALMOST overshadow the sensational views across the harbour!

Doctor’s Gully, the site of Peel’s Well – Darwin’s first fresh water supply – and Chinese market gardens, is worth exploring too. And if you’re a sucker for kitsch like me, you’ll grab an Aquascene pen with a travelling fish inside it on the way out!

MORE about Aquascene

7 Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

As much a community event as a market, groups of picnicking locals set up their tables and chairs on the beach, eating, drinking and watching the the sun sink into the gulf.

The markets were in full swing behind me as I watched Pearl Lugger turned cruise boat cross the setting sun – the only object visible on the water. After the free presentation at the caravan park I’d thought a swim at the beach was one of the Darwin things to do.

But despite the warm evening no one was actually in the water.

‘Does anyone go swimming here?’ I asked, like the naïve tourist I was. ‘Nah, love. Too many crocs,’ came the reply. ‘And it’s too cold,’ another local commented.

Well, that left me with only one course of action to take. A shopping frenzy from the market stalls followed by a total pig-out at the food stalls. The swim could wait for another time! And place

MORE about Darwin’s Markets

8 Jumping Crocodiles

Our Jumping Crocodile Cruise wasn’t just memorable for the crocs. 75 minutes drive east of Darwin and we had a few minutes to kill while waiting for our Adelaide River cruise boat. What better way to pass the time than to check out our fellow passengers??

Sadly, little guidance exists for those unsure about what to wear to a crocodile viewing – we’d chosen the safe option of shorts and T-shirts. Not so the young woman in an outfit that combined the best (or worst) of Heidi and Morticia Addams! Even more sadly, I failed to capture it on film.

But even these dubious charms weren’t enough to distract us once the crocodiles started jumping!

Experience a prehistoric predator much closer to Darwin – try the Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove or hold a croc at Crocodylus Park and Zoo!

MORE about our Jumping Crocodiles adventure (and Heidi/Morticia)

9 Litchfield National Park

Not everyone visits the magnificent tropical Litchfield National Park for the termite mounds. Some people actually travel the 112 km south of Darwin to experience the wonderful array of waterfalls, inviting selection of swimming holes and network of short walks to most of the major attractions.

But I’ll bet everyone’s got a photo like THIS!

MORE about Litchfield National Park

10 Mandorah

On our last day in Darwin, we tossed up between a Harbour Cruise or a 15 minute ferry ride across the harbour to Mandorah. I’m sure I would have been happy with the harbour cruise, but boy, am I glad we chose magnificent Mandorah!

Lunch at the Mandorah pub was all Barramundi Burgers, refreshing cider and Bob Marley in the background. If we’d ordered up our own vision of tropical paradise, it wouldn’t have been much different to this!

MORE about Mandorah

There’s a lot more things to do in Darwin than this teaser TOP Ten!

If you’ve got the time (and energy!) try the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory for the chilling Cyclone Tracy simulation; East Point Military Museum for insight into the bombing of Darwin in WWII; and a short drive south to the Adelaide River War Memorial.

Enjoy the water by hanging out at the Waterfront or the Wave Pool, or take a Harbour Cruise for harbour highlights or a Sunset cruise for drinks – or romance. And for a REAL taste of the Territory, be in Darwin for the annual Beer Can Regatta – 12^th July in 2015!

Then there’s the festivals … but wait! You’ll have to discover it all for yourself!!  These best flights will get you there!

* Pics by Pilchard

Want MORE?

• Darwin
• Top End
• Northern Territory

The post 10 TOP Things to Do in Darwin, Top End appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

STOP PRESS!  2020 Farina Bakery Update:  Due to COVID-19 the Farina Bakery South Australia will NOT be operating in 2020.  However, the Farina historic township and Farina campground will be open and can be visited in line with South Australian state government border closures and travel restrictions. 

The sign shimmered through the haze of dust and heat like a mirage. Or the product of too much wishful thinking. Or the BEST kind of fantasy …

Whichever it was, the Bakery Baking Today sign at the turn-off to the Farina Historic Township in the middle of the South Australian Outback just HAD to be too good to be true.

Where is Farina?

Because over 600 km (370+ miles) north of Adelaide, we were on the last stretch of continuous bitumen for several hundred kilometres.  Which kind of put us in the middle of nowhere!

We’d already passed Lyndhurst, a roadhouse and small settlement at the beginning of the tyre-shredding Strzelecki track.  That notorious stretch of dirt through the Strzelecki desert connects Lyndhurst with Innamincka, 469 km (291 miles) to the north east.  We’d driven a short distance along the track, but pulled out before all four tyres became punctured.

From Marree, there were only two ways out.  East along the Oodnadatta track, a 607 km (377 miles) dirt track through the remote Outback that joined the Stuart Highway at Marla.  Or the fabled Birdsville track to – you guessed it – Birdsville, 519 km (322 miles) further north.

Yes, we were on the outskirts of Australia’s Boys Own Adventureland.  A 4WD and/or motorcyclists’ paradise traversed by groups of three (WHY ALWAYS THREE???) blokes.  And on this day, we would, for the first time, visit the start of each of these iconic tracks.

Now, en route to Marree, we’d heard about Farina, a ghost town full of ruins.

Wasn’t it??

A Bakery in a Ghost Town

The white marquee rising incongruously above the partially restored stonework of the Farina ruins in the distance suggested otherwise.

As did the banner indicating South Aussie icon Laucke Flour’s personal interest in this little bakery in the middle of nowhere.

Clearly, further investigation was required, so I turned to Pilchard – but the car had already swerved towards the turn-off. No bakery-seeking-sensor required in THIS car!!

As we drew closer to the knot of vehicles gathered around the cluster of old buildings surrounding the marquee, the smell of freshly baking bread gave the game away.

Yes, there really WAS a fully functional bakery in this remote ruin. And judging by the roaring trade being done with the constant arrival of incredulous visitors from both north and south, a Back-of-Beyond Bakery was just what the doctor ordered.

A VERY Civilised Restoration!

In a masterstroke so civilised it should be made mandatory, the underground Bakery was the first building to be restored to full working order by the Farina Restoration Group Inc (FRG).

Ironic, given that Farina is, of course, the Latin word for flour. And the town was so named in expectation of it becoming the ‘Granary of the North’. Sadly, the unpredictable climate, remote location and lack of water ultimately meant its decline, despite its one-time position as the railway head for all northern lines.

But in one of those undeniably symmetric coincidences, Farina is finally living up to its name.  Now the Underground Bakery opens for a few weeks every year in the Australian winter months.  It’s become a focus for fund-raising, publicity and – of course – a completely unexpected opportunity for an excellent Back-of-Beyond Bakery pig-out.

This was one of those times that sacrificing myself for the sake of my blog became not just a duty, but a pleasure!

Farina Bakery Volunteers

Bron and Syd, volunteers from FRG that keeps the Bakery operational for a few weeks in May, June and July, expertly fielded queries, served customers and – in my case – mopped up the coffee I overturned in the excitement of finding this bizarre bakery.

All while posing for photos!

The FRG, now about five years old, was founded by Tom Harding.  Along with current station owners Kevin and Anne Dawes,he saw Farina’s potential as an historic site and set about restoring it as a tourist attraction.

Apart from partnerships with various organisations and professional stonemasonry, all work on site is done by volunteers – to volunteer in 2021, use the online registration form HERE.

Those who are planning a similar venture should not underestimate the effectiveness of having a Bakery drawcard!  Word of mouth has already worked its magic at Farina – as winter’s onset signals the start of the Outback Adventure season and all sensible travellers head north for warmth.

Judging by the number of vehicles out the front, most of them stop at the bakery, spending up big on baked goods and souvenirs.

Stay at Farina Station Campground

Of course it helps that Farina station has also set up the excellent Farina campground with barbecues, fire pits, toilets (look out for one of them in MY BOOK!) and hot showers.  All this luxury can be yours for just $AUD5 per person per night. It’s an excellent staging post en route to the rough stuff of the tracks further north. But it’s a destination in its own right with walks along the river and along the disused railway tracks.  The story boards along the way detail the history of the town’s rise, fall and restoration.

The Group’s volunteers stay on site in the campground for the annual restoration activities while the bakery is operating.  Some are reportedly the bakery’s best customers, and they work on a roster system to ensure the bakery stays open.

I almost joined up on the spot!

What’s on Offer?

Of course it also helps that the Bakery goods are absolutely top shelf.  The old Scotch oven in the underground kitchen turns out an astonishing array of sweet, savoury and plain breads and rolls; pies; sausage rolls; and pasties.  Oh, and the best cream buns I’ve ever had the privilege of tasting.

Martin, the baker du jour, dexterously whipped trays of superbly baked goods out of the oven while telling us he’d co-opted a few of his baker buddies to volunteer for a stint at Farina.

‘Well, they USED to be my friends,’ he laughed, while proving – at least to MY satisfaction – that 80 years of disuse didn’t seem to have affected the oven’s effectiveness.

The oven’s underground location probably also helped to preserve it.   One of the many storyboards around the ruins mentions the destruction of outside dunnies in violent storms.  And that, my friends, means no Scenic Public Toilet pic from the Farina ruins.

However, there IS an awesome dunny in the picnic area down in the campground to be found in my book Aussie Loos with Views!

But I digress …

One of the Driest Places on Earth!

This arid part of the South Australian Outback is the driest part of the driest state in the driest continent on earth.  As we drove to and from Farina, it was easy to see the hardships faced by the early settlers in these outback towns. After a long, hot and dry summer, today’s green and fertile pastoral country could be tomorrow’s dust bowl.

But the FRG’s hardy bunch of volunteers are putting Farina back on the map by offering their unique Bakery at the Back-of-Beyond experience!

And that puts it well and truly on the map for THIS Aussie traveller!

STOP PRESS:  The Farina Underground bakery will NOT be open in 2020 due to COVID-19.  However the historic township of Farina and the Farina campground will be open in line with South Australian border closures and travel restrictions.

Want MORE?

• Farina Restoration Group Official Website
• Copley things to see and do, Outback South Australia
• Lyndhurst things to see and do, Outback South Australia
• Strzelecki Track
• Oodnadatta Track
• Birdsville Track

* PLEASE NOTE:  The Bakery is only open for a few weeks in May/June/July.
** Oscar Wilde said it first, and best

The post The Bizarre Back-of-Beyond Bakery – Farina, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

When the 200-year-old Tree of Knowledge was poisoned shortly after being included on the National Heritage List on Australia Day 2006, I was appalled.

Yet another historic Aussie landmark fallen victim to the disregard sometimes shown for our heritage. But although the tree’s demise was disappointing, I was also resigned to its fate. Because when a tree dies, it’s gone for good, right? RIGHT??

Wrong!

Where else but Australia would a replacement tree be considered a viable option?  And we’re not talking simple replanting, either – that’d be too easy. We’re talking a total tree REBUILD!

So when news broke that the now dead Tree of Knowledge would be replaced by a virtual monument incorporating a section of the original in homage, I was skeptical.

How could a virtual tree memorial be built to at the very least equal the real thing?

Because if it DIDN’T match the drama and history of the original Tree of Knowledge, what would be the point??

You’ve probably figured by now that THIS Tree of Knowledge isn’t the Garden of Eden original. Even if the nearby Roses and Things garden and tea rooms closely approximates how I’d imagined the legendary garden, downtown Barcaldine,  known as ‘Garden City of the West’,  isn’t quite the same thing!

But why make such a fuss about a TREE?

Well … I’m glad you asked!

Barcaldine is WAAAY more than the Rose Garden and killer bakery! This classic Outback Queensland town is also (arguably) the only place in Australia – if not the world! – with a combination heritage walk/pub crawl based around the 5 historic pubs in the main street!!

But I digress …

Back to the tree!

In 1891, a dispute between shearers, their union and local pastoralists polarised political opinion, culminating in an historic strike and the rise of the Labour Union movement and Australian Labor Party. Events unfolded under a Ghost Gum (Eucalyptus papuana) in the town’s centre, subsequently dubbed the ‘Tree of Knowledge’.

That made the tree a local and national iconic symbol.

So THAT meant poisoning the tree wasn’t just vandalism – but political sabotage.

How could an appropriate replacement for this priceless icon EVER be found?

Pretty much impossible, you’d think.

Or was it?

In August 2011, a couple of years after the $AUD5 Million virtual tree was officially ‘opened’ I approached it with some apprehension.

Probably the best I could hope for was that I didn’t hate it.

But, standing in the shade covering the area of the original canopy, I experienced a rare moment of speechless admiration. Incorporating the preserved trunk and some branches of the original, but with a canopy of wooden cylinders (secured with lock nuts!) to replicate leaves and the musical sound of wind in the ‘foliage’, this awesome virtual tree ROCKS*!

This stunning tribute actually betters (in my opinion, and that’s the one that counts on this blog!) the original icon it commemorates.

But perhaps that’s partly because it provides a unique photographic experience in that it’s almost impossible to take a poor shot!!

A virtual Tree doesn’t require conventional gardening methods either!  Earlier in 2015 it was ‘closed’ for maintenance – those bolts and lock nuts stopping the wooden panels from falling don’t tighten themselves!

And there’s hope for the future too, with Barcaldine’s Australian Workers Heritage Centre, now home to the ‘Young-Un’ (or Son of the Tree of Know-ledge!) cloned from the original tree’s DNA planted in early 2011 by then Prime Minister, Julia Gillard.  And if that doesn’t work out, there’s another clone in Brisbane’s Ecosciences precinct!

So, maybe another icon will be unveiled on this historic spot at a ‘Tree of Knowledge’ festival in another 200 years or so!!

Watch this space …

* Well done, Brian Hooper and m3architecture!

The post Aussie Icons #5 – Tree of Knowledge Barcaldine Queensland appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

According to my train buddy* G, the longest ever recorded chicken flight lasted for 13 seconds.  Ironic then, that one of Australia’s most unsung aviators drew his early inspiration from experiments with measuring chook** wingspan relative to their flight!

A world exclusive wasn’t what I expected when I visited Minlaton on South Australia’s York Peninsula. But the Red Devil, a Bristol M.1C Military Monoplane from a limited 1918 run of only 125 fast fighter planes designed to assist the Allies during World War I is believed to be the only one left of its kind. In the WORLD!

Even more amazing, however, is that Henry ‘Harry’ John Butler, a Koolywurtie*** lad born in 1889, became a prominent Australian aviation pioneer in an environment where the chooks were virtually his only aviatory (? is that a word??) influence!

Until his 20’s, that is, when a regular 400km weekend round trip to Adelaide where he learned to fly with Carl William ‘Bill’ Wittber, another Aussie aviation pioneer. How? Well, after making the first Australian powered flight, Bill built his own plane from scratch. As you do. And this was the aircraft in which Harry first experienced the joys of flight!

Young Harry flew to England at his own expense to join the Royal Flying Corps following the outbreak of World War I, and was soon regularly flying air raids to France before becoming Captain, Flight Commander then instructor and decorated war hero****.

So I reckon Captain Harry’s reported 1919 statement that the Red Devil was one of the three fastest in the world is made on pretty good authority!

Captain Butler’s triumphant – and now legendary – return to Minlaton in the Red Devil on 6th August 1919 in a 110 kmh gale wearing an inflated tyre tube in lieu of life-jacket is also believed to be the first airmail delivery over water in the Southern Hemisphere.

Harry and the Red Devil, cornerstone of his Aviation company, continued to entertain, amuse and educate Australians over the next few years – aeronautical displays, joy flights, airmail deliveries (including a mail drop to his childhood school at Koolywurtie), promotional stunts and winning the inaugural Aerial Derby.

A complete change of pace for this little aircraft, whose logbook contains entries for ‘Fighting Practice’ – but the speed (209 kph/130 mph) that made it an invaluable addition to the Allied cause, also made it the perfect plane to showcase Captain Butler’s considerable aviation expertise.

Harry wasn’t in his beloved Red Devil on 11th January 1922 when engine failure at low altitude and the ensuing crash into a field just outside Minlaton left him critically injured and unable to continue to fly professionally. An undiagnosed cerebral abscess finally caused his death on 29 July 1924.

After languishing in an Adelaide shed for a number of years, the Red Devil was sold by Mrs Butler to Mr C Miller – who, after extensive restoration, attended a number of races and exhibitions. Only one other pilot – a Mr C Kleinig – ever flew the Red Devil, which was never involved in an accident.

The fully restored Red Devil is housed on Minlaton’s main street in a protective hangar – a must-see for those, who like me, find this forgotten chapter of Australia’s aviation history fascinating.

And just up the road, if you can tear yourself away from exhibits such as the Rocking Bath and Magic Flute (fit over the nose to play) a whole room at the Minlaton National Trust Museum is dedicated to Captain Harry Butler. A small booklet – ‘The Harry Butler Story’- to which I am indebted for much of the information in this story, is available for purchase.

But the Red Devil remains a tangible link to another time and place – a place where aviation was in its infancy, a war changed the world forever, and a boy from Koolywurtie became a hero.

*train buddy – best friend fellow commuter

**chook = chicken. Is it just us Aussies who call them chooks??

***Koolywurtie – a small Yorke Peninsula farming locality near Minlaton

****Captain Harry was awarded the Airforce Cross in 1918

The post Aussie Icons #3 – The Red Devil appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.