Are you ready to return to that magical land of mountains awash with rocks and rainforest; steep passes, plunging waterfalls and patch-worked plains; green and glowing with magnificent sunsets?

What land is this?

It’s Australia’s amazing Scenic Rim Region that I introduced in Part One HERE! Don’t recall? Check it out NOW! I’ll wait …

… OK! You’re back!

So I don’t have to tell you again that the semi-circular Scenic Rim runs along the rugged ranges of the border between Queensland and New South Wales about an hour west of Australia’s far better known east coast hotspots like Byron Bay, the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise. It’s not that far from Brisbane, either.

And I certainly wouldn’t dream of repeating myself to say it’s quite different to ANY of these – and most other places in Australia as well! SO … if you haven’t already put the Scenic Rim on your ‘MUST SEE’ list, do it NOW!

I’ll wait …

… Oh! You want MORE random adventures?

OK! Read ON!

The Lady of the Lake

Don’t hate me!

I’d spent SO much time using Lake Moogerah as a mere backdrop to (all modesty aside) stunning sunrise (see Part One), lovely landscape (see Flickr) and superb sunset (see below) photos, I hadn’t seen it as an attraction in its own right.

Despite its 8.27 km² surface area!

So on our last day in the Scenic Rim Region, we hired a boat – the same one shamelessly used as a sunset shot prop – from the Lake Moogerah Caravan Park and spent four fun-filled hours exploring the lake.

Reversing the usual vista of the lake from the shore was a master-stroke of staggering genius for both the birdo (Pilchard) and wannabe-photographer (Red) AND a cheap half-day out at only $60! If possible, the landscape – perfect but for the pall of smoke from yet another controlled burn-off – was even MORE sensational than from the shore.

Signs on the shoreline show the height reached by the dam during the rain events and flooding of January, 2011 which also flooded Brisbane. Cruising past the mass concrete double curvature arch dam wall with an ungated spillway that would have been several metres below us during those floods made what we’d seen on TV more real.

As we cruised Lake Moogerah’s long and varied shoreline, the four hours we’d hired the tinnie for disappeared in a flash!  Imagine how much MORE time we’d have needed if we’d actually gone fishing instead of indulging in a birding/photographic frenzy?!?

That’s why this lady sees a lot more of THAT lake in her future …

Mt Barney’s Lower Portals

Warnings about unmarked tracks, rockfalls and fitness requirements deterred us from scaling Mt Barney’s 1300+ metre high twin summits. Even the ‘safer’ walks around Mt Barney’s base were still riddled with hazards.

That’s if we could even get there without a 4WD!

But the imposing magnificence of the Mt Barney Peaks dominating the landscape en route from NSW town Woodenbong to Queensland town Rathdowney had cast their spell. And who knew when – or whether – we’d pass this way again?

So although a burn-off on one of the mountain’s flanks was scheduled on the day of our Mt Barney hike, the forecast suggested the prevailing winds would blow the smoke away. And heavy hiking boots would make short work of the washaways and moderate to steep gradients of the 7.4 km return Lower Portals trail.

We weren’t in any hurry!

A couple of kilometres, some magnificent forest and a kookaburra later, the wind changed direction and the valleys filled with a blue, smoky haze. Not just ‘smoky’, but ACTUAL SMOKE! I could see a long session at the Lake Moogerah campground laundry in my future – but in the meantime, it enhanced my photos superbly!

The campground at the track’s junction with Mt Barney Creek was the first I’d ever been to accessible only by foot, but its location beside the rocky gorges of the Lower Portals almost made me wish I’d carried my body weight in camping gear in so I could stay there.

ALMOST!

The most hazardous part of the hike, however, wasn’t the road in; thickening smoke; rocks in the creek; or challenging track conditions – but passing a group of what seemed like dozens of teenage boys addressing each other in the incomprehensible teen-speak of youth, pungent from the sweat and smoke of a 3-day camping trek around Mt Barney’s highlights as they headed back to the trailhead with the mindless dedication of a mass lemming migration.

Where’s the hazard, you ask?

Well … YOU try maintaining a steady pace – NO puffing or panting! – while climbing an astonishingly steep staircase as you respond (in a normal voice) to the polite greetings of the group and their minders! ALL with a smile on your non-red face!

I dare YOU to try it!

The Condamine River Valley

Our first visit to the Scenic Rim and we didn’t even know the Condamine River Valley existed.

A week later we’d seen this part of Australia’s longest river system twice!

From the New South Wales side, we drove the Lindesay Road, arguably Australia’s worst, from Woodenbong to Queen Mary Falls, then up the range to Carr’s lookout, and (arguably) one of Australia’s finest views across the Condamine Valley.

On that trip, we didn’t take the Head Road down into the valley.

But from Lake Moogerah, it’s a stunning drive through the valley then up an impossibly steep road to the scenic splendour of Carrs Lookout. There’s nowhere to hide on this narrow, steep and winding road, so hope like hell everyone else has seen the ‘not suitable for caravans’ warning signs!!

Tragically, the limitations of our vehicle meant we didn’t experience the 4WD-only Condamine River Road’s 14 creek crossings on the Cambanoora Gorge Circuit. So we took a superb morning tea at the Spring Creek Mountain Café just below Carrs Lookout as partial compensation for our disappointment.

It worked!

Cracking the Rocks at Mt French

At 468 metres above sea level, Mt French isn’t very high by either Australian OR Scenic Rim standards – and it’s SO off the radar by world standards! It’s the lowest of the four peaks that make up the Moogerah Peaks National Park. And it’s only a short drive to the top from Central Scenic Rim town Boonah!

But Mt French’s Logan’s Lookout is one of the highest points in the Fassifern Valley, thus giving great view over the much higher ranges to the south-west on the NSW/Queensland border. But the REAL attraction is the vertical fissuring which apparently makes this an internationally renowned ‘crack climbing crag’ – or so I am reliably informed.

On our late afternoon visit, there weren’t any climbers visible on Frog Buttress, the rocky outcrop at Mt French’s northern end where the crack rock climbers congregate. I guess once you’ve cracked the rock stacks, there’s nothing for it but to retreat to the Frog Buttress Campground.

And with a name like that AND a dose of cool Scenic Public Toilet, who wouldn’t want to stay there? Along with the crack-rock-climber-campers communing with nature via the enticing blend of electro-hip-hop-funky-c-rap spewing at a million decibels (give or take) from their appalling car sound system??

Perhaps crack-rock-climbing wasn’t the only ‘crack’ on offer!

Dang! Where DID I put those ear plugs??!!

Lake Moogerah Sunset

Amongst the detritus of the camera-battery-flattening array of Lake Moogerah shots my snap-happy shutter button finger (and I) took hour after punishing hour, there are a few sunset shots worth keeping.

Weirdly, all the good ones have props!

Taking a sunset stroll along Lake Moogerah’s shoreline became a habit on the nights with no rain, with one added bonus over the sunrise strolls – no one saw me in my pyjamas*!

Want MORE?

• Where is the Scenic Rim?
• Scenic Rim Region Activities and Attractions
• Lake Moogerah
• Mount Barney National Park
• Carrs Lookout and Condamine River Valley
• Mount French and Moogerah Peaks National Park
• Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim Part ONE
• MORE photos on Flickr HERE!

* See Lake Moogerah Sunrise in Part One

Previous Post: Adelaide, Autumn, and the Mt Lofty Botanic Garden 

NEXT Post: Tour the Yorke Peninsula via its BEST Scenic Loos! 

The post Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim Part TWO appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

There’s a magical, mystical land where ancient, dense rainforests cloak majestic mountains, their serrated silhouettes marching across a dramatically sensational skyline. Where vertically columned cliffs fall into fertile valleys patch-worked with produce and criss-crossed by rocky streams.

Picturesque hamlets dot the landscape providing shelter, food and a base from which to explore their impossibly scenic surroundings. Numerous National parks showcase amazing natural attractions, wilderness and World Heritage forests which soften the harsh edges of the ring of ranges – once volcanoes – that define the Scenic Rim.

It’s a land where every journey is an adventure; every spot has a new surprise; and round every corner is an intriguing vista inviting the traveller to explore.

Water, mist and cloud; green and verdant jungle; high mountains and cold nights – is this REALLY Australia?

I succumbed to its splendour on arrival; I left a little piece of my heart behind when I left. But that means my return to the Scenic Rim is one day assured.

Only an hour south-west of Brisbane or west of the Gold Coast in Queensland’s south east, ‘Scenic Rim’ describes ranges rising sharply above the valleys to form a semi-circle. It’s a wonderfully diverse region that’s WAY too big for just one visit.

And it’s WAY too big for just one post! So sit back, relax, and enjoy the first instalment of random Scenic Rim adventures – then take the link to Part Two HERE!

The Governor’s Chair

For a quiet Sunday morning at the end of a rough and rugged transport trail, once the main trade route across the ranges to Brisbane, the Spicers Gap carpark was jumping.

We squeezed into a spot between a massive 4WD vehicle and a rustic wooden fence. 300 metres down a narrow foot trail, it was standing room only at the Governor’s Chair Lookout. A large mixed-age group had commandeered the rocky ledges overlooking the valley below and it sounded like someone was giving a speech.

Crap. Maybe taking in the reportedly spectacular view from #7 on our Scenic Rim Lookout list wasn’t going to be as easy as we’d thought.

But there was no way we’d driven this challenging road to miss out on seeing The Governor’s Chair. The lookout was a public place. Perhaps it was time for my two good elbows to get a workout.

As we drew closer, I could hear what the speaker was saying.

Double Crap. Pushing my way to the vantage point at the edge for a look-see while ancestral ashes were being scattered during a memorial service was out of the question, even for me.

The Spicers Gap road, hand-built and maintained from rock and wood in extremely challenging terrain and weather conditions, was an amazing feat of engineering for its time Walking a stretch of the road – now preserved as a conservation park – made me realise how soft we’ve become since we stopped being pioneers.

Despite the dull day, back at the lookout (now thankfully family-free) I could see why George Bowen – Queensland’s first governor – referred to it as an ‘incomparable panorama’.

And why it makes a perfect last resting spot.

MORE about the Governor’s Chair and Spicers Gap

Cunninghams Gap

Tempting though it was to climb either Mt Mitchell (1162 m) or Mt Cordeaux (1144 m) towering above either side of Cunningham’s Gap, most memorable of our Scenic Rim range crossings, the warnings of sheer cliffs edges, serious injury and/or death were off-putting.

The level of fitness required for such hikes, did NOT of course, have ANYTHING to do with it

So we chose the more benign Rainforest and Palm Grove Circuits.

Tragically however, the sign at the Palm Grove trailhead also warned of steep cliffs – but apart from one scary drop-off into oblivion where I closed my eyes and scuttled across, hugging the side of the mountain worked for me.

Having the foresight to pick up a bakery lunch also worked for me.

And sitting in the picnic ground with that lunch got me a rare sighting of the Liz Taylor of the bird world – Satin Bowerbird with its incredible violet eyes!

MORE about Cunningham’s Gap and Main Range National Park

BIG 3 at the Bakery, Kalbar

In the unlikely event the Kalbar Bakery hasn’t got what you want, it’s a pretty safe bet that just a few kilometres away, outlet #2 at Aratula WILL. Impossible to pick a favourite, we gave both bakeries a workout – sometimes both on the same day – during a week in the Scenic Rim region.

Usually, a Bakery BIG 3 consists of a pie, a sweet and a drink – for me, the more exotic the better.

But very, Very, VERY occasionally, it’s not all about the food.

And on this sunny downunder winter day, we emerged from the Kalbar Bakery to find a very different BIG 3!

Can you guess which car is ours?

MORE about Kalbar Bakery

The Other Side … Koreelah National Park

With more National Parks within cooee than you can poke a stick at (if you’ll excuse my descent into the depths of Aussie slang), you’d think there’d be enough natural attractions on the Queensland side of the Scenic Rim to keep us busy.

But drive south along Carney’s Creek road, then up the range and across the Queensland border into New South Wales for a masterclass in natural attractions.

Beware – this intriguing blend of Gondwana Rainforest, Scenic Rim silhouettes and bizarrely shaped mountains is so spectacular you may find yourself considering a tree-change (aka mid-life crisis) move to the Rim.

Despite roads described by those more charitable than I as ‘pretty ordinary’ and ‘dirt’.

From the border crossing on top of the range, the road plunged down into the Koreelah Creek valley, skirting the park’s eastern boundary. Reports of the shady, spacious – and empty – campground’s attractions included a waterfall, rocky gorge and benign wildlife such as koala, wallaby and platypus.

But what I DON’T get is why the listed attractions DIDN’T include the bushland scenic public loo – OR the snake?

MORE about Koreelah National Park

Lake Moogerah Morning

I’m SO not a morning person. But for a Lake Moogerah morning with the sun rising through a layer of frosty mist over the water against the magnificently mountainous backdrop of the Scenic Rim, I’ll make an exception any time.

After escaping the freezing night temperatures between polar flannel sheets in our cozy camper-trailer set up in the Lake Moogerah Caravan Park, you’d think the last thing on earth I’d want to do was face the frigid dawn.

And you’d be right, except for one thing. The call of nature, right on cue around sunrise.

Once I was up, daybreak cast its spell and I wandered the foreshore as the sun touched the magical mountain tops, photographing the ever-changing landscape ’til my fingers went numb with cold.

I wonder could anyone tell I was still in my pyjamas?!

MORE about Lake Moogerah and Lake Moogerah Caravan Park 

Want MORE?

• Where is the Scenic Rim?
• Scenic Rim Region
• Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim PART TWO!
• Adventures across the Border in Woodenbong
• MORE photos on Flickr HERE!

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The post Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim: Part One appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

… I saw and did for the first time in 2014!

It’s possible my definition of ‘cool’ isn’t the same as yours. I think it’s quite easy to find something cool downunder – anything new, intriguing, scenic or exclusive to OZ (or the world) does it for me.

So if you’re wondering about some of the inclusions in this selection of 12 cool things I saw for the first time in my travels through five Aussie states in 2014, that’s why they’re there!

If you don’t agree, why not tell me ALL about it in the comments

1. Bruny Island

This little island off the eastern coast of Tasmania is about the same size as Singapore. But whereas Singapore has a population of 6,000,000+, Bruny Island is a LOT less crowded with only around 600! Stunning scenery, including the 2^nd highest cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere and one of Australia’s most scenic public loos; wonderful wildlife – think seals and Tasmanian endemic birds – AND fabulous food means a day trip isn’t nearly long enough to see everything.

And I’ve never been on a waterway with a name as cool as the D’Entrecasteaux Channel!

MORE about Bruny Island

2. Cradle Mountain

We got to see Tasmania’s most famous mountain on a ‘normal’ day. And that meant cloud, fog, mist, drizzle, rain, wind and the coldest temperatures we’d experienced in Tasmania to date! Apparently, those typical images of Cradle Mountain’s classic shape reflected beautifully in Dove Lake below (click HERE to see what I mean!) only happen on one or two days in every ten!

SO … I guess we were lucky. Because MY shots show the real thing in all its non-clichéd glory! Right??

MORE about Cradle Mountain

3. Tasmanian Wombat

I’ve seen wombats before. I’ve even been bitten by a wombat!! But 2014 was the year I first saw Vombatus ursinus tasmaniensis, which the informed will instantly recognise as the Tasmanian Wombat – a sub-species of the common wombat. The lesser informed might think it a visitor from another planet with its odd shape, shambling gait and its legendary ability to burrow underground in the most inhospitable places.

Most Australian women know a ‘wombat’ – the name’s often given to a bloke who, like the wombat, eats roots and leaves. I don’t know if the Tasmanian wombat shares these habits with its mainland counterparts. But … I’ll bet a few Tassie blokes do!

MORE about Wombats

4. Balls Pyramid

It’s not that easy to see the world’s highest volcanic rock stack up close. First, get to Sydney. Then take a ~600 km flight to Lord Howe Island which, depending on the crosswinds on the airstrip bisecting the island, may or may not be able to land. Then wait for suitable weather conditions for the 23 km boat trip across the open ocean to the Pyramid – there’s a 50% cancellation rate. 66.66% if you’re as unlucky as we were with a FAIL on our first two attempts!

But finally the planets aligned and we gazed in awe at Balls Pyramid’s distinctive twin spires towering 551 metres above us.

And in an uncharacteristically speechless moment, I ran out of superlatives!

MORE about Balls Pyramid

5. Lord Howe Island Phasmid

After rats invaded Lord Howe Island following a shipwreck back in the dim, distant past, the endemic Lord Howe Island Phasmid – a large stick insect – was thought to be extinct. But many years later, it was re-discovered on the inhospitable and rugged Balls Pyramid (see above!) by a scientific expedition.

Luckily, we didn’t have to climb or camp on Balls Pyramid to see this rare creature for ourselves – there are a couple in the Lord Howe Island Visitor Information Centre.

And call me shallow, but seeing something that’s been brought back from extinction AND that not many others have ever seen gives me a BIG thrill!

MORE about Lord Howe Island

6. My TV Interview

Seeing my name on my first book – Aussie Loos with Views! – was one thing. But seeing myself on TV was quite another! My first (and possibly ONLY) TV appearance to promote my book on Weekend Sunrise may or may not fit YOUR definition of ‘cool’.

I’ll leave you to judge it for yourself!

To watch the video: Hover the cursor over the bottom of the picture. Click on the Forward Arrow symbol that will appear in the bottom left hand corner. There’s about 15 seconds of ‘sponsor messages’ before the interview starts.

*IF you received this post by email, click on the link to the blog post at the top of the email – you won’t be able to watch the video from the email.

MORE about Aussie Loos with Views!

7. Sunrise over Lake Moogerah

I’m SO not a morning person that it wouldn’t be far wrong to say that seeing ANY sunrise ANYWHERE was a first for me. But the sunsets were so spectacular near our campsite on our first visit to Lake Moogerah that I braved the cold and dark to see what I’d normally be missing.

And found out.

So what’s a few bleary eyes and frozen fingers when sunrises in the superb Scenic Rim region look like THIS?

MORE about the Scenic Rim

8. Carrs Lookout

We took a day trip from Woodenbong along the notorious Mt Lindesay Road (arguably Australia’s worst) to Queen Mary Falls in the Main Range National Park. From there, the road winds upwards for 7 km to a vantage point 1005 metres above sea level overlooking the spectacular scenery of Condamine Gorge.

Who even knew there WAS a Condamine Gorge? An embarrassing admission given it’s strategic importance as the headwaters of the Murray/Darling river system that reaches the sea in my home state, South Australia.

We decided to forego the pleasures of the 4WD Gorge track and its 14 river crossings in favour of morning tea at the Spring Creek Mountain Cafe. All in the interests of seeing more of that stunning view, of course!

9. The Roxy Theatre and Café

A fully restored – and fully functioning – Art Deco cinema complete with café and a musuem dedicated to its Greek heritage was an unexpected bonus in small-ish New South Wales country town Bingara. And when we decided to stay for a few days and explore the area, we lucked out.

Dinner at the Café, a look through the museum and an excellent show from Song and Dance Man Mike McClellan showcased the Roxy’s awesome attributes superbly.

But next time I’ll take a tripod for some blur-free interior shots!

MORE about the Roxy Theatre, Bingara

10. Birdlife Australia Gluepot Reserve

The 50 km drive over a bone-jarring, dusty, rocky station track heading due north from tiny Riverland settlement Taylorville to Gluepot Reserve took over an hour and a half. But deep in the South Australian mallee surrounded by sand dunes and spinifex, we entered a world of walks, wildflowers and wildlife.

Who cared that we didn’t see any of the 5 ‘lifers’ that birdo Pilchard hoped to find on this once- pastoral property, when a walk in the early morning light showed the beauty of this harsh, arid landscape? And it didn’t matter that our camp shower malfunctioned in the middle of our stay when the flowering eremophilas were so abundantly spectacular. Even the thought of facing that long, rugged drive on the way home wasn’t enough to faze us. Why would it?

This is Outback Australia at its BEST!

MORE about Birdlife Australia Gluepot Reserve

11. Point Danger Gannet Colony

A whole lot of large white birds resting on a rocky knoll a few kilometres from Victorian coastal town Portland was interesting – but you’re probably thinking it’s not THAT exciting. Every now and then a few of them would take off, swooping, soaring and generally showing off against a bright blue sky in a completely non-photo-friendly way.

But this cacophony (or whatever the correct collective noun is) of Cape Gannets on Point Danger (cool name, huh?!) is the only mainland Gannet colony in Australia – a spillover from the rugged Lawrence Rocks colony, just two kilometres offshore.

It’s rare to see so many gannets up this close without being out at sea. And the stretches of staggering scenery along this part of the coast are an added bonus – especially if you’re a non-birdo!!

MORE about Point Danger Gannet Colony

12. The Granites

You can’t see the wild and rugged scenery of the Coorong – Australia’s longest beach – from many places on the long drive along the Princes Highway that parallels the coastline en route to Adelaide. The 194 km (120+ miles) of sand, unbroken except for a collection of three random boulders 15 km north of of Kingston South East. So as we returned home from another Australian exclusive – a sighting of the first Long-billed Dowitcher ever recorded downunder – we took the short detour to see them.

Apart from sand dunes and waves stretching out to the horizon and a 4WD that just WOULD NOT GET OUT OF MY PHOTO, there’s nothing much else along this vast and empty beach on the edge of the Great Southern Ocean.

Except for the view. AND these three random granite boulders.

Now … see if you can guess why they called this area ‘The Granites’!!!!

MORE about the Coorong

So that’s 12 of the cool new Aussie things I saw and experienced in 2014.  2015 has already been exciting with a week in a retirement village, a narrow escape from a bushfire and the threat of floods!

Watch this space!

SO … what cool things did YOU see and do in 2014??

The post 12 Cool Aussie Things … appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.