Condamine Gorge Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/condamine-gorge/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Mon, 18 Mar 2019 07:29:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Condamine Gorge Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/condamine-gorge/ 32 32 Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim Part TWO https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/random-adventures-in-the-scenic-rim-part-two/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/random-adventures-in-the-scenic-rim-part-two/#comments Thu, 16 Apr 2015 22:35:52 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3547 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Are you ready to return to that magical land of mountains awash with rocks and rainforest; steep passes, plunging waterfalls and patch-worked plains; green and glowing with magnificent sunsets? What land is this? It’s Australia’s amazing Scenic Rim Region that I introduced in Part One HERE! Don’t recall? Check it out NOW! I’ll wait … … OK! You’re back! So[...]

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Boat at Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Boat at Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Are you ready to return to that magical land of mountains awash with rocks and rainforest; steep passes, plunging waterfalls and patch-worked plains; green and glowing with magnificent sunsets?

What land is this?

It’s Australia’s amazing Scenic Rim Region that I introduced in Part One HERE! Don’t recall? Check it out NOW! I’ll wait …

… OK! You’re back!

So I don’t have to tell you again that the semi-circular Scenic Rim runs along the rugged ranges of the border between Queensland and New South Wales about an hour west of Australia’s far better known east coast hotspots like Byron Bay, the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise. It’s not that far from Brisbane, either.

Pelican at Sunset on Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Pelican at Sunset on Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

And I certainly wouldn’t dream of repeating myself to say it’s quite different to ANY of these – and most other places in Australia as well! SO … if you haven’t already put the Scenic Rim on your ‘MUST SEE’ list, do it NOW!

I’ll wait …

… Oh! You want MORE random adventures?

OK! Read ON!

Lake Moogerah with Smoke Haze, Scenic Rim, Queensland
Lake Moogerah with Smoke Haze, Scenic Rim, Queensland

The Lady of the Lake

Don’t hate me!

I’d spent SO much time using Lake Moogerah as a mere backdrop to (all modesty aside) stunning sunrise (see Part One), lovely landscape (see Flickr) and superb sunset (see below) photos, I hadn’t seen it as an attraction in its own right.

Despite its 8.27 km² surface area!

So on our last day in the Scenic Rim Region, we hired a boat – the same one shamelessly used as a sunset shot prop – from the Lake Moogerah Caravan Park and spent four fun-filled hours exploring the lake.

Gorge Rock Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Gorge Rock Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Reversing the usual vista of the lake from the shore was a master-stroke of staggering genius for both the birdo (Pilchard) and wannabe-photographer (Red) AND a cheap half-day out at only $60! If possible, the landscape – perfect but for the pall of smoke from yet another controlled burn-off – was even MORE sensational than from the shore.

Signs on the shoreline show the height reached by the dam during the rain events and flooding of January, 2011 which also flooded Brisbane. Cruising past the mass concrete double curvature arch dam wall with an ungated spillway that would have been several metres below us during those floods made what we’d seen on TV more real.

Tree Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Tree Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

As we cruised Lake Moogerah’s long and varied shoreline, the four hours we’d hired the tinnie for disappeared in a flash!  Imagine how much MORE time we’d have needed if we’d actually gone fishing instead of indulging in a birding/photographic frenzy?!?

That’s why this lady sees a lot more of THAT lake in her future …

Mt Barney’s Lower Portals

Warnings about unmarked tracks, rockfalls and fitness requirements deterred us from scaling Mt Barney’s 1300+ metre high twin summits. Even the ‘safer’ walks around Mt Barney’s base were still riddled with hazards.

Mt Maroon, en route to Mt Barney, Scenic Rim
Mt Maroon, en route to Mt Barney, Scenic Rim

That’s if we could even get there without a 4WD!

But the imposing magnificence of the Mt Barney Peaks dominating the landscape en route from NSW town Woodenbong to Queensland town Rathdowney had cast their spell. And who knew when – or whether – we’d pass this way again?

Mt Barney Profile, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Profile, Scenic Rim, Queensland

So although a burn-off on one of the mountain’s flanks was scheduled on the day of our Mt Barney hike, the forecast suggested the prevailing winds would blow the smoke away. And heavy hiking boots would make short work of the washaways and moderate to steep gradients of the 7.4 km return Lower Portals trail.

We weren’t in any hurry!

Kookaburra at Mt Barney, Scenic Rim
Kookaburra at Mt Barney, Scenic Rim

 

A couple of kilometres, some magnificent forest and a kookaburra later, the wind changed direction and the valleys filled with a blue, smoky haze. Not just ‘smoky’, but ACTUAL SMOKE! I could see a long session at the Lake Moogerah campground laundry in my future – but in the meantime, it enhanced my photos superbly!

The campground at the track’s junction with Mt Barney Creek was the first I’d ever been to accessible only by foot, but its location beside the rocky gorges of the Lower Portals almost made me wish I’d carried my body weight in camping gear in so I could stay there.

ALMOST!

Mt Barney Lower Portals Campground, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Lower Portals Campground, Scenic Rim

The most hazardous part of the hike, however, wasn’t the road in; thickening smoke; rocks in the creek; or challenging track conditions – but passing a group of what seemed like dozens of teenage boys addressing each other in the incomprehensible teen-speak of youth, pungent from the sweat and smoke of a 3-day camping trek around Mt Barney’s highlights as they headed back to the trailhead with the mindless dedication of a mass lemming migration.

Where’s the hazard, you ask?

Mt Barney Creek, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Creek, Scenic Rim

 

Well … YOU try maintaining a steady pace – NO puffing or panting! – while climbing an astonishingly steep staircase as you respond (in a normal voice) to the polite greetings of the group and their minders! ALL with a smile on your non-red face!

I dare YOU to try it!

The Condamine River Valley

Our first visit to the Scenic Rim and we didn’t even know the Condamine River Valley existed.

A week later we’d seen this part of Australia’s longest river system twice!

Carrs Lookout and Mt Jiramon landscape, Scenic Rim
View from Carrs Lookout with Mt Jiramon, Queensland

From the New South Wales side, we drove the Lindesay Road, arguably Australia’s worst, from Woodenbong to Queen Mary Falls, then up the range to Carr’s lookout, and (arguably) one of Australia’s finest views across the Condamine Valley.

On that trip, we didn’t take the Head Road down into the valley.

But from Lake Moogerah, it’s a stunning drive through the valley then up an impossibly steep road to the scenic splendour of Carrs Lookout. There’s nowhere to hide on this narrow, steep and winding road, so hope like hell everyone else has seen the ‘not suitable for caravans’ warning signs!!

Condamine Valley, Scenic Rim, Queensland
Condamine Valley, Scenic Rim, Queensland

Tragically, the limitations of our vehicle meant we didn’t experience the 4WD-only Condamine River Road’s 14 creek crossings on the Cambanoora Gorge Circuit. So we took a superb morning tea at the Spring Creek Mountain Café just below Carrs Lookout as partial compensation for our disappointment.

It worked!

Cracking the Rocks at Mt French

At 468 metres above sea level, Mt French isn’t very high by either Australian OR Scenic Rim standards – and it’s SO off the radar by world standards! It’s the lowest of the four peaks that make up the Moogerah Peaks National Park. And it’s only a short drive to the top from Central Scenic Rim town Boonah!

But Mt French’s Logan’s Lookout is one of the highest points in the Fassifern Valley, thus giving great view over the much higher ranges to the south-west on the NSW/Queensland border. But the REAL attraction is the vertical fissuring which apparently makes this an internationally renowned ‘crack climbing crag’ – or so I am reliably informed.

Fassifern Valley Patchwork from Mt French, Scenic Rim
Fassifern Valley Patchwork from Mt French, Scenic Rim

On our late afternoon visit, there weren’t any climbers visible on Frog Buttress, the rocky outcrop at Mt French’s northern end where the crack rock climbers congregate. I guess once you’ve cracked the rock stacks, there’s nothing for it but to retreat to the Frog Buttress Campground.

And with a name like that AND a dose of cool Scenic Public Toilet, who wouldn’t want to stay there? Along with the crack-rock-climber-campers communing with nature via the enticing blend of electro-hip-hop-funky-c-rap spewing at a million decibels (give or take) from their appalling car sound system??

Perhaps crack-rock-climbing wasn’t the only ‘crack’ on offer!

Dang! Where DID I put those ear plugs??!!

Lake Moogerah Sunset

Amongst the detritus of the camera-battery-flattening array of Lake Moogerah shots my snap-happy shutter button finger (and I) took hour after punishing hour, there are a few sunset shots worth keeping.

Sunset with Australasian Darter, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Sunset with Australasian Darter, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Weirdly, all the good ones have props!

Taking a sunset stroll along Lake Moogerah’s shoreline became a habit on the nights with no rain, with one added bonus over the sunrise strolls – no one saw me in my pyjamas*!

Scenic Rim Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Queensland
Scenic Rim Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Queensland

Want MORE?

* See Lake Moogerah Sunrise in Part One


Previous Post: Adelaide, Autumn, and the Mt Lofty Botanic Garden 

NEXT Post: Tour the Yorke Peninsula via its BEST Scenic Loos! 

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12 Cool Aussie Things … https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/01/12-cool-aussie-things/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/01/12-cool-aussie-things/#comments Thu, 15 Jan 2015 09:51:49 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2993 NEW from RedzAustralia!

… I saw and did for the first time in 2014! It’s possible my definition of ‘cool’ isn’t the same as yours. I think it’s quite easy to find something cool downunder – anything new, intriguing, scenic or exclusive to OZ (or the world) does it for me. So if you’re wondering about some of the inclusions in this selection[...]

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Lake Moogerah Holiday Park Campground at Sunrise
Lake Moogerah Holiday Park Campground at Sunrise, Queensland

… I saw and did for the first time in 2014!

It’s possible my definition of ‘cool’ isn’t the same as yours. I think it’s quite easy to find something cool downunder – anything new, intriguing, scenic or exclusive to OZ (or the world) does it for me.

So if you’re wondering about some of the inclusions in this selection of 12 cool things I saw for the first time in my travels through five Aussie states in 2014, that’s why they’re there!

If you don’t agree, why not tell me ALL about it in the comments 😀

1. Bruny Island

This little island off the eastern coast of Tasmania is about the same size as Singapore. But whereas Singapore has a population of 6,000,000+, Bruny Island is a LOT less crowded with only around 600! Stunning scenery, including the 2nd highest cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere and one of Australia’s most scenic public loos; wonderful wildlife – think seals and Tasmanian endemic birds – AND fabulous food means a day trip isn’t nearly long enough to see everything.

The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania
The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania

And I’ve never been on a waterway with a name as cool as the D’Entrecasteaux Channel!

MORE about Bruny Island

2. Cradle Mountain

We got to see Tasmania’s most famous mountain on a ‘normal’ day. And that meant cloud, fog, mist, drizzle, rain, wind and the coldest temperatures we’d experienced in Tasmania to date! Apparently, those typical images of Cradle Mountain’s classic shape reflected beautifully in Dove Lake below (click HERE to see what I mean!) only happen on one or two days in every ten!

Cradle Mountain, Tasmania
Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake, Tasmania

SO … I guess we were lucky. Because MY shots show the real thing in all its non-clichéd glory! Right??

MORE about Cradle Mountain

3. Tasmanian Wombat

I’ve seen wombats before. I’ve even been bitten by a wombat!! But 2014 was the year I first saw Vombatus ursinus tasmaniensis, which the informed will instantly recognise as the Tasmanian Wombat – a sub-species of the common wombat. The lesser informed might think it a visitor from another planet with its odd shape, shambling gait and its legendary ability to burrow underground in the most inhospitable places.

Tasmanian Wombat
Tasmanian Wombat at Narawntapu National Park, Tas

Most Australian women know a ‘wombat’ – the name’s often given to a bloke who, like the wombat, eats roots and leaves. I don’t know if the Tasmanian wombat shares these habits with its mainland counterparts. But … I’ll bet a few Tassie blokes do!

MORE about Wombats

4. Balls Pyramid

It’s not that easy to see the world’s highest volcanic rock stack up close. First, get to Sydney. Then take a ~600 km flight to Lord Howe Island which, depending on the crosswinds on the airstrip bisecting the island, may or may not be able to land. Then wait for suitable weather conditions for the 23 km boat trip across the open ocean to the Pyramid – there’s a 50% cancellation rate. 66.66% if you’re as unlucky as we were with a FAIL on our first two attempts!

Balls Pyramid via Lord Howe Island
Balls Pyramid Western Face, via Lord Howe Island, NSW

But finally the planets aligned and we gazed in awe at Balls Pyramid’s distinctive twin spires towering 551 metres above us.

And in an uncharacteristically speechless moment, I ran out of superlatives!

MORE about Balls Pyramid

5. Lord Howe Island Phasmid

After rats invaded Lord Howe Island following a shipwreck back in the dim, distant past, the endemic Lord Howe Island Phasmid – a large stick insect – was thought to be extinct. But many years later, it was re-discovered on the inhospitable and rugged Balls Pyramid (see above!) by a scientific expedition.

Lord Howe Island Phasmid
Lord Howe Island Phasmid

Luckily, we didn’t have to climb or camp on Balls Pyramid to see this rare creature for ourselves – there are a couple in the Lord Howe Island Visitor Information Centre.

And call me shallow, but seeing something that’s been brought back from extinction AND that not many others have ever seen gives me a BIG thrill!

MORE about Lord Howe Island

6. My TV Interview

Seeing my name on my first book – Aussie Loos with Views! – was one thing. But seeing myself on TV was quite another! My first (and possibly ONLY) TV appearance to promote my book on Weekend Sunrise may or may not fit YOUR definition of ‘cool’.

I’ll leave you to judge it for yourself!

To watch the video: Hover the cursor over the bottom of the picture. Click on the Forward Arrow symbol that will appear in the bottom left hand corner. There’s about 15 seconds of ‘sponsor messages’ before the interview starts.

*IF you received this post by email, click on the link to the blog post at the top of the email – you won’t be able to watch the video from the email.

MORE about Aussie Loos with Views!

7. Sunrise over Lake Moogerah

I’m SO not a morning person that it wouldn’t be far wrong to say that seeing ANY sunrise ANYWHERE was a first for me. But the sunsets were so spectacular near our campsite on our first visit to Lake Moogerah that I braved the cold and dark to see what I’d normally be missing.

And found out.

Sunrise with Spoonbill, Lake Moogerah
Sunrise with Spoonbill, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim, Queensland

So what’s a few bleary eyes and frozen fingers when sunrises in the superb Scenic Rim region look like THIS?

MORE about the Scenic Rim

8. Carrs Lookout

We took a day trip from Woodenbong along the notorious Mt Lindesay Road (arguably Australia’s worst) to Queen Mary Falls in the Main Range National Park. From there, the road winds upwards for 7 km to a vantage point 1005 metres above sea level overlooking the spectacular scenery of Condamine Gorge.

Who even knew there WAS a Condamine Gorge? An embarrassing admission given it’s strategic importance as the headwaters of the Murray/Darling river system that reaches the sea in my home state, South Australia.

Carrs Lookout, Scenic Rim, Queensland
Carrs Lookout, Scenic Rim, Queensland

We decided to forego the pleasures of the 4WD Gorge track and its 14 river crossings in favour of morning tea at the Spring Creek Mountain Cafe. All in the interests of seeing more of that stunning view, of course!

9. The Roxy Theatre and Café

A fully restored – and fully functioning – Art Deco cinema complete with café and a musuem dedicated to its Greek heritage was an unexpected bonus in small-ish New South Wales country town Bingara. And when we decided to stay for a few days and explore the area, we lucked out.

Roxy Theatre, Bingara, NSW
Roxy Theatre, Bingara, NSW

Dinner at the Café, a look through the museum and an excellent show from Song and Dance Man Mike McClellan showcased the Roxy’s awesome attributes superbly.

But next time I’ll take a tripod for some blur-free interior shots!

MORE about the Roxy Theatre, Bingara

10. Birdlife Australia Gluepot Reserve

The 50 km drive over a bone-jarring, dusty, rocky station track heading due north from tiny Riverland settlement Taylorville to Gluepot Reserve took over an hour and a half. But deep in the South Australian mallee surrounded by sand dunes and spinifex, we entered a world of walks, wildflowers and wildlife.

Gluepot Reserve, South Australia
Outback Mallee at Gluepot Reserve, South Australia

Who cared that we didn’t see any of the 5 ‘lifers’ that birdo Pilchard hoped to find on this once- pastoral property, when a walk in the early morning light showed the beauty of this harsh, arid landscape? And it didn’t matter that our camp shower malfunctioned in the middle of our stay when the flowering eremophilas were so abundantly spectacular. Even the thought of facing that long, rugged drive on the way home wasn’t enough to faze us. Why would it?

This is Outback Australia at its BEST!

MORE about Birdlife Australia Gluepot Reserve

11. Point Danger Gannet Colony

A whole lot of large white birds resting on a rocky knoll a few kilometres from Victorian coastal town Portland was interesting – but you’re probably thinking it’s not THAT exciting. Every now and then a few of them would take off, swooping, soaring and generally showing off against a bright blue sky in a completely non-photo-friendly way.

Point Danger Gannet Colony via Portland, Vic
Point Danger Gannet Colony & Lawrence Rocks via Portland, Vic

But this cacophony (or whatever the correct collective noun is) of Cape Gannets on Point Danger (cool name, huh?!) is the only mainland Gannet colony in Australia – a spillover from the rugged Lawrence Rocks colony, just two kilometres offshore.

It’s rare to see so many gannets up this close without being out at sea. And the stretches of staggering scenery along this part of the coast are an added bonus – especially if you’re a non-birdo!!

MORE about Point Danger Gannet Colony

12. The Granites

You can’t see the wild and rugged scenery of the Coorong – Australia’s longest beach – from many places on the long drive along the Princes Highway that parallels the coastline en route to Adelaide. The 194 km (120+ miles) of sand, unbroken except for a collection of three random boulders 15 km north of of Kingston South East. So as we returned home from another Australian exclusive – a sighting of the first Long-billed Dowitcher ever recorded downunder – we took the short detour to see them.

The Granites, South Australia
The Granites section of the Coorong, South Australia

Apart from sand dunes and waves stretching out to the horizon and a 4WD that just WOULD NOT GET OUT OF MY PHOTO, there’s nothing much else along this vast and empty beach on the edge of the Great Southern Ocean.

Except for the view. AND these three random granite boulders.

Now … see if you can guess why they called this area ‘The Granites’!!!!

MORE about the Coorong

So that’s 12 of the cool new Aussie things I saw and experienced in 2014.  2015 has already been exciting with a week in a retirement village, a narrow escape from a bushfire and the threat of floods!

Watch this space!

SO … what cool things did YOU see and do in 2014??

Babbler Campground, Gluepot Reserve, SA
Babbler Campground, Gluepot Reserve, South Australia

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