White Cliffs Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/white-cliffs/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Wed, 05 May 2021 11:19:09 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg White Cliffs Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/white-cliffs/ 32 32 Red’s TOP 10 Accessible Outback Experiences https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/#comments Sun, 01 Mar 2015 14:19:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3191 NEW from RedzAustralia!

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day. You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules: Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think! Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy,[...]

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View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland
View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day.

You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules:

  • Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think!
  • Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy, range, clearance, tyres, weight rating, space – in relation to where you want to go.
  • Outsource the driving (eg take a tour, hitch a ride) when conditions don’t suit.
  • Check all road, weather and travelling conditions in advance – rain, road works, flooding etc can all cause road closures.
  • Take the advice you receive – be prepared to change your plans if conditions are not suitable for your vehicle.  Having a Plan B always helps!
  • Get road assistance (eg NRMA, RAA, RACQ etc), but be aware of any exclusions – sometimes road assistance to remote areas isn’t available.
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA

Pilchard and I have travelled to all the RedzAustralia TOP 10 Accessible Outback HOT Spots below in either a Subaru** Touring Wagon, a Subaru Forester or a Subaru Outback. Sometimes we’ve even had a NON-off-road camper trailer in tow. We’re not foolhardy risk-takers – we just follow those rules.

But if we can have these 10 Accessible Outback Experiences without extreme 4 wheel driving, then so can you!

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

1 Whale Watching

Head of Bight, South Australia

Stand atop the Bunda Cliffs – longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the world – and watch the whales cavorting below! Yes, you’re in the Outback – and this section of the all-bitumen Eyre Highway separating Ceduna from Norseman, ~1200 km west, is Outback all the way.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain en route from Sydney and Perth, around ~ 4000 km, is one of Australia’s great road trips. Full of life changing experiences – think driving Australia’s longest straight stretch of road; golfing on the world’s longest golf course; and unravelling the mystery of the Nullarbor Nymph (take links below for details) – it’s a TOP Outback experience in itself, even without the whales.

Where: Head of Bight Whale Watching centre is just off the Eyre Highway, ~220 km east of Eucla on the WA/SA border

When: Whale season is from June to October

Stay: Nullarbor Roadhouse, 26 km from Head of Bight Whale Watching area

MORE about Head of Bight and the Nullarbor Plain

White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW
White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW

2 Opal Fossicking

White Cliffs, New South Wales

The tiny opal mining town of White Cliffs is the only place in the world where unusual pineapple opals occur naturally. Despite spending a couple of afternoons on the mullock heaps, the only ‘colour’ (opal-speak for actual opal) we found was pretty, but worthless. Maybe you’ll have better luck? We certainly did when we gave the diggings away and ‘found’ some opal in the White Cliffs township, along with the world’s only above-ground mineshaft tour, a self-guided historic walk and unusual architecture shaped by harsh weather conditions and limited building materials.

If you’re car’s up to it, take the rugged, unsealed Wanaaring road for 33 km to the Paroo-Darling National Park and Peery Lake, at over 30 km long the largest overflow lake along the river.

Where: White Cliffs is 96 km north-west of Wilcannia, which is 195 km east of Broken Hill on fully sealed roads

MORE about White Cliffs

Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run
Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run

3 Mail Run

Quilpie, Queensland

It’d be difficult to drive yourself north over ~400 km of mostly dirt station tracks through magnificent outback scenery – it passes through 10 pastoral properties. But hitch a ride with the local postie to deliver the mail, catch up with some of the locals and see what’s outside the Quilpie city limits!

When you’re done with the Mail Run, climb nearby Baldy Top lookout (top photo) for a great view over this remote Boulder Opal mining town on the edge of nowhere. Explore west by driving 100 km to Eromanga, reportedly the furthest town from the ocean in Australia; fossick for opal at the caravan park’s ‘Deuces Wild’ lease; or drive 75 km south to Toompine for an Outback Pub experience.

Where: Quilpie is 211 km west of Charleville on the Cooper Developmental Road; and ~950 km west of Brisbane on the Warrego Highway, all sealed

MORE about Quilpie and Eromanga

Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley
Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley

4 The Gibb River Road

via Derby, Kimberley, Western Australia

There’s NO WAY that driving the 660 km of rugged, stony, tyre-shredding Gibb River Road (also known as the ‘Boys Own Adventure’ route) from Kununurra to Derby qualifies as an ‘Accessible Outback’ experience.

But the ‘Gibb River Road LITE’ version does!

Outsource the driving and hit the notorious road on a 4WD bus (it’s a school bus in its spare time) from North-west Kimberley town Derby for a 360 km round trip on the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, then back again.

So sit back, enjoy morning tea and lunch en route to the main attractions, and save your car and/or rig for the bitumen.

Where: Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour leaves from Derby, 220 km north-east of Broome, Western Australia

Road Conditions: Appalling! That’s why you’re letting someone else do the driving, remember??!!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and the Kimberley

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

5 Hiking

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory

The amazingly varied and superb Outback scenery makes the 7 km Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk one of the best short-ish hikes in Australia (IMHO). But it helps that it’s superbly placed amidst the ancient rocky landscape of the West MacDonnell Ranges, traversed by the Finke River, oldest waterway in the world.

Ormiston Gorge is the smart alternative if you want to dodge the crowds at Uluru AND experience Outback magic with classic scenery, wildlife and a variety of walks. It’s SO good, a two-night stay turned into six nights!

Where: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges, 128 km west of Alice Springs on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Ormiston Gorge

Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland
Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland

6 Camel Races

Bedourie, Queensland

Don’t expect to see horses at the Bedourie races – it’s camels all the way in the lead up to nearby Boulia’s camel race weekend. Join Bedourie locals for a TOP day out with racing, wood-chopping, good Aussie tucker, entertainment and an evening dance – to be held in 2016 on 9 July.

Home of the iconic Bedourie Oven, the town sits almost half-way between two other Western Queensland racing icons – Boulia, and the centre of Australia’s racing universe – Birdsville, with it’s world famous race meet held in September. Once the races are over, explore the area or just relax in the town’s Hot Artesian Pools!

Or stick around for the Boulia Camel Races – longest track in Australia; then move on to Winton for more races the following weekend.

Where: Bedourie is a 216 km drive – mostly sealed with about 14 km of dirt – south of Boulia; or 164 km north of Birdsville – mostly dirt.

When: Bedourie Camel Races 2018 Dates TBA, but usually the weekend before the Boulia Camel Races; Boulia Camel Race Weekend on Friday 20th – Sunday 22nd July 2017 AND Winton Camel Races Dates TBA, but usually the weekend after the Boulia Camel Races.

MORE about Bedourie Camel Races

Super Pit, Kalgoorlie
Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

7 Unnatural Attractions

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Standing on the edge of a massive man-made crater stretching for nearly 4 km and waiting for a blast that’ll knock the sides out even further is like nothing else you’ll see in the Outback. A bold scheme (somewhat like its founder Alan Bond) the Super Pit combines leases and resources to more efficiently mine the Golden Mile – one of the richest seams of gold in the world.

A town able to survive because of an ambitious engineering feat piping water from the outskirts of Perth, nearly 600 km to the west, Kalgoorlie is a gold-mining town 24-7.

There’s nothing quite like the Outback’s natural attractions – but there’s something strangely compelling about this very unnatural one!

Where: 600 km east of Perth

MORE about Kalgoorlie-Boulder and the Super Pit

Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland
Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland (pic by Pilchard)

8 RED!

Windorah, Queensland

A number of localities vie for the honour of being the REDdest place in Australia. But for the reddest accessible outback HOT spot, there’s no contest.

Even with my old FILM camera, the red sand dunes west of Queensland Outback town Windorah are so startlingly vivid they almost hurt the eyes. Windorah has the added inducement of being closest town to Australian icon Cooper’s Creek – only place in the world where two rivers meet to form a creek. Then a little further west there’s the weirdly signposted ‘Point of Interest’, and a little further beyond that, The Little Loo at the end of the Universe – my most popular Scenic Public Toilet ever!

That’s all very nice. But it’s those RED sand dunes that get me every time!

Where: Windorah is 239 km north-west of Quilpie (see #3 above), along the Diamantina Developmental Road

MORE about Windorah and Cooper’s Creek

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley
Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley

9 Wildlife Watching

Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

As the crocodiles zig-zagged through the otherwise tranquil waters of Marlgu Billabong, centrepiece of the Parry Lagoons Nature reserve, the 65 species of birds we saw over two visits seemed unperturbed. Maybe the crocs were after bigger prey? That’s why we stayed firmly behind the barriers of the viewing platform over this magnificent inland billabong and breeding ground that attracts thousands of birds.

And bird-watchers!!

Only a few kilometres from East Kimberley Town Wyndham, the lagoon is a dramatically beautiful dry-season oasis against the stark colours and boab-tree-studded landscape that surrounds it.

Where: Marlgu Billabong is ~15 km on a dirt road from Wyndham.  Wyndham is ~100 km north-west of Kununurra on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard's Lookout, South Australia
Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard’s Lookout, South Australia

10 Ridge Top Tour

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, South Australia

Experience extreme Outback Adventure on a bone-shaking 4 hour return trip through the (almost) trackless adventureland of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary to Sillers Lookout. Even though you won’t be driving yourself on this tour, it’s full of heart-stopping action on steep tracks with vertigo-inducing drop-offs and staggering scenery from several vantage points that show off northern South Australia to supreme advantage.

Australia’s premier eco-tourism destination (IMHO), Arkaroola is set amidst a fantastic landscape with an extraordinary array of rocks and minerals, superb natural attractions, amazing self-drive exploratory tours (mostly 4WD only), rugged hikes and an observatory for star-gazing.

The Ridge-top tour is conducted by Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and for my money, it’s the ultimate Aussie Outback experience of all time. And I’m happy for any other tour operators to prove me wrong!

Where: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is 125 km north-east from Copley on an all-weather dirt road. Copley is ~600 km north of Adelaide on a fully sealed road – and if the weather prevents you from getting out to Arkaroola, Copley makes a fine alternative destination

MORE about Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and Copley

Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

WARNING:

This post is an introduction to guide you to some of the more accessible Outback Experiences.

ANY trip to the Outback, no matter how easy it appears, MUST be carefully planned.  Please visit websites like Travel Outback Australia, Outback Australia Travel Guide or Outback Travel Australia for advice and to ensure you are well-prepared, and carry extra water and supplies at all times.

Why?  Because you’ll be faced with:

  • Long distances
  • Extreme temperatures
  • Minimal facilities
  • Limited services, including mobile phone access
  • Harsh conditions

 

* IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

** Please note: These models of Subaru generally have slightly higher clearance than a standard car, and can be switched to 4WD mode if required.

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

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Aussie ABC: O is for Opal! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/12/aussie-abc-o-is-for-opal/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/12/aussie-abc-o-is-for-opal/#comments Wed, 18 Dec 2013 01:14:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=14 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Australian Opal I didn’t understand all the fuss about SiO2.nH2O until 2004. That’s when I first visited Coober Pedy.  It’s slap bang in the middle of absolutely freakin’ nowhere in the South Australian Outback.  And it’s where I first found a piece of SiO2.nH2O I wanted to take home with me. You might know SiO2.nH2O better as Hydrous Silica. Or[...]

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White Cliffs New South Wales
White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW

Australian Opal

I didn’t understand all the fuss about SiO2.nH2O until 2004.

That’s when I first visited Coober Pedy.  It’s slap bang in the middle of absolutely freakin’ nowhere in the South Australian Outback.  And it’s where I first found a piece of SiO2.nH2O I wanted to take home with me.

You might know SiO2.nH2O better as Hydrous Silica. Or maybe Opal!  Down here, diamonds AREN’T a girl’s best friend. 95% of the world’s opal is sourced from downunder, so Australia comes by its national gemstone honestly!  Australian Opal Rules!

White Cliffs Landscape, New South Wales
White Cliffs Landscape, New South Wales

Back in Coober Pedy, there was only one thing standing between me and my Opal. A small matter of $AUD800+. A bit much for my wallet, even if it was already a tasteful ring that actually fitted me.

But then I had a scathingly brilliant idea!  Why not find my OWN piece of opal and make my OWN jewellery? It couldn’t be THAT hard, could it?

So over the next few years I disregarded the legendary BAD luck attached to precious opal. My quest took me to five Aussie opal towns, also slap bang in the middle of nowhere. That’s because the ideal climatic and geological factors in which cryptocrystalline hydrous silica (yep, that’s yet another way of saying OPAL!) forms seem to occur in the harshest, most desolate and inhospitable land on earth.

Coober Pedy from Lookout, South Australia
Coober Pedy from Lookout, South Australia

Where else but the Australian Outback!

Was my quest successful? Well … here’s a set of random adventures from each Australian Opal town!

1. Coober Pedy, SA – Australian Opal’s capital

Underground in Coober Pedy, South Australia
Underground in Coober Pedy, South Australia

I awoke in perfect pitch blackness and waited for my eyes to adjust to the light.

They didn’t.

That’s what happens in a windowless room hewn from the solid rock under Coober Pedy in the middle of the night. But for the absence of shackles we could have been in a dungeon. Although the locals who’d built underground to beat the heat were probably used to it.

The BIG Winch, Coober Pedy, SA
The BIG Winch, Coober Pedy, SA

Meanwhile, the noise from above that had woken me – a pinging sound like pebbles on an iron roof – continued.

I put aside thoughts of poison pills, ventilator shafts and being buried alive. If anyone wanted to do me in, it’d be simpler to dump me in a disused mine-shaft!

Most of South Australia’s 80% contribution to the world opal market is mined in Coober Pedy.  It’s a pock-marked paradise where the golf course (‘blacks’ instead of ‘greens’) enjoys reciprocal rights with St Andrews of Scotland.

This isolated town has what I believe to the world’s only underground campground.  The Big Winch also has the distinction of being first place in the world where we successfully demonstrated a complete lack of opal-finding expertise.

And the noise?? Rain, of course!

2. Yowah, QLD – Australian Opal Exclusive

Yowah from the Bluff Lookout, Queensland
Yowah from the Bluff Lookout

From our vantage point high above on the Bluff, the small town was almost lost in an endless sprawl of vegetation.  It promised total disorientation if you left the main road in.

Below us was the only place in the world where Yowah Nuts – small rocky nuggets of opal – are found.

Stay in Yowah for a full-on Outback experience to go with your Yowah Nuts.  This town is SO remote it’s visited by the Royal Flying Doctor Service.  The only fuel in town at the caravan park is only available to their paying guests!

Yowah Nut Pendant
Yowah Nut Pendant

I didn’t expect to meet an ex-legionnaire, whose anecdotes about life in the Foreign Legion, including the true meaning of ‘decimate’, kept us entertained over lunch at the town’s only cafe!

After that, getting a fossickers license seemed a bit anti-climactic.

Luckily for inept unlucky opal-mining tragics like me, opal can be purchased locally.

SO … I was forced to descend into true tourist behaviour.  After passing up several fiendishly expensive cuts, I bought my first ever piece of opal.

A multi-coloured shard of Yowah Nut cunningly carved into a pendant.

Although I have to stand right for the sun to illuminate its colours, at only $AU25, it’s a reminder of what awaits our return to Yowah.

3. Lightning Ridge, NSW

As we left the Lightning Ridge Visitor Information Centre, I was asked the dumbest question in living memory.

‘D’ya reckon we’ll like it here, love?’ the the most inebriated of a clutch of beer-swigging Grey Nomads asked.  He drunkenly staggered against the door as he held it open for me.

Say what?

Amigo's Castle, Lightning Ridge, New South Wales
Amigo’s Castle, Lightning Ridge, New South Wales

But Lightning Ridge is memorable for a whole lot of other reasons. We followed the ‘Car Door’ self drive tours to the Corcoran Opal fields – the richest stretch of black-opal-bearing soil on earth.  We also saw enough quirky attractions to make us wonder exactly what was in the super-heated bore water bubbling up from the Great Artesian Basin way below into the hot baths full of tourists exhausted after a day in the diggings.

Corcoran Opal Fields, Lightning Ridge, NSW
Billion Dollar View … Looking out over the Corcoran Opal Fields, Lightning Ridge, NSW

Quirky Lightning Ridge

Think Flying Combi, the Chambers of the Black Hand, the Black Queen Experience and Amigo’s Castle! AND it’s home of the self-proclaimed ONLY black-opal-mining Cactus Farmers in the WORLD!! Black opal requires a tonne of equipment to reach the depths at which it is found.  So our short stay was spent exploring the place where legendary and prolific Aussie author, Ion Idriess worked and wrote ‘Lightning Ridge’ over 100 years ago.

Ironic, though, that any one of his books is now worth more than all the Australian opal Pilchard and I have EVER scavenged put together!!

4. White Cliffs, NSW

Call me a coward, but I can’t face the overhang of a LOOONG ladder tilting backwards into oblivion with nothing between me and the bottom of the mine shaft.  That’s why I did my ‘research’ on the surface while brave boy Pilchard went below for a mine tour.

Warning Sign, White Cliffs, New South Wales
The dangers of working the opal fields … White Cliffs, New South Wales

The good news is there’s almost as much opal on the surface these days.  It’s hidden in the cast-offs surrounding the deserted mine-shafts scattered over the surface, if you don’t mind worthless smaller pieces! Tragically, the collection of ‘colour’ Pilchard and I found after a hard day digging won’t even make jewellery, let alone our fortune.  But I finally got the thrill of the quest and why people keep coming back for more.

Above Ground Opal Mine Tour, White Cliffs, NSW
Above Ground Opal Mine Tour, White Cliffs, NSW

Besides, White Cliffs is the only place on earth with unique Australian Opal Pineapples!

As a special treat, the owners of the Red Earth Opal Showroom and Cafe who’d shown Pilchard through their mine, threw in an above-ground mine-shaft tour for free for me.

A real bargain considering it normally costs 50c!

And what’s NOT to love about the place I spent 7½ minutes in paradise?

5. Quilpie, QLD

A bakery run by a gun shearer who still holds the world record for the most sheep shorn in one day is one of many distractions from Quilpie’s main business of mining boulder opal. Hell, with its own HOT Artesian Bore baths and in-season entertainment, you don’t even have to leave the Caravan Park to find yourself a good time!

View from Baldy Top over Quilpie, Outback Queensland, Australia
View from Baldy Top over Quilpie, Outback Queensland, Australia

It’s also not far from Eromanga – arguably furthest spot from the ocean in any direction in Australia.  With attractions like these, you could stay in Quilpie for a week without even thinking about Opal.

Quilpie Boulder Opal
Quilpie Boulder Opal

The ‘Deuces Wild’ Opal Mine is SO remote a rescue party is sent out (at your expense) if you’re not back by 5:00pm. The distraction of Bourkes Parrot, a lifer for twitcher Pilchard, was almost enough excitement without hunting for the elusive opal.

On the claim, our ever-growing opal-mining ‘expertise’ resulted in some seams of ‘colour’ running through the rock. But while they look nice in the sun, I’m not sure how they’ll become my Opal Ring …

The Quest for Australian Opal Continues

To date, the unkind could successfully argue my quest for my own piece of SiO2.nH2O jewelry has been a fools errand! But in the process, I’ve discovered an intriguing sub-culture out on the edge which I’m not yet done exploring.

SO … watch this space – and maybe next time I’ll hit the Australian Opal jackpot!

Want MORE?

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7-and-a-half Minutes in Paradise! White Cliffs, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/02/7-and-a-half-minutes-in-paradise-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/02/7-and-a-half-minutes-in-paradise-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 02:09:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=152 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Think of ‘Australia’ and ‘Paradise’ in the same sentence and I’ll bet you’re thinking tropical. White sandy beaches, palms and and clear blue sea. Colourful fish, corals and lush rainforest. Balmy, moonlit nights and cocktails under the stars. But that splendid vision – while undeniably fabulous – is only one of many versions of utopia in this country of diverse[...]

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White Cliffs Waterhole, Outback New South Wales
White Cliffs Waterhole, Outback New South Wales

Think of ‘Australia’ and ‘Paradise’ in the same sentence and I’ll bet you’re thinking tropical. White sandy beaches, palms and and clear blue sea. Colourful fish, corals and lush rainforest. Balmy, moonlit nights and cocktails under the stars.

Welcome to White Cliffs + Kestrel!
Welcome to White Cliffs + Kestrel!

But that splendid vision – while undeniably fabulous – is only one of many versions of utopia in this country of diverse delights. We never know where we’ll find it next – so we keep our minds AND eyes wide open!!

Even so, to discover the ultimate paradise in remote Outback opal mining town White Cliffs was a surprise, even by our standards.

But to find it lasted for exactly 7-and-a-half minutes was completely unexpected!

In the depths of the remote New South Wales Outback, White Cliffs isn’t the sort of place you stumble across by accident, unless you’re lost or maybe on the run. But whoever you are, and however you arrive, there’s a paradise for everyone in this small (~200 population) community’s many attractions.

Fossicking Fields, White Cliffs, Outback New South Wales
Fossicking Fields, White Cliffs, Outback New South Wales

For a start there’s the scenery. The endless blue skies over the vast moonscape of the opal mines, pocked with slag heaps and scattered with genuine Aussie dunnies. The colours and light unique to this archetypal outback landscape have inspired more than one artist and photographer! But this lasts WAAAAAAY more than 7-and-a-half minutes!

Then there’s the opal. The first commercial opal field in Australia, and the only place in the world where ‘White Cliffs Pineapple’ opal is found, the unbelievable landscape left by thousands of abandoned mines still attracts opal hunters.

50,000 'Stubbies' and counting ...
50,000 ‘Stubbies’ and counting …

But we didn’t even have to leave the excellent Opal Pioneer Caravan Park to find it – a few questions about the town’s attractions and the manager was pressing bits of opal into my open and willing hands! Even our amateurish fossicking field foray was ‘successful’ – even though the few bits of ‘colour’ we found didn’t amount to a hill of beans in the REAL world of opal trading!! Paradise could be a chunk of high quality black opal – but I’d want a bit more than 7-and-a-half minutes worth for the kind of money I’d need to get me one!

50c for an above-ground mine tour - Bargain!
50c for an above-ground mine tour – Bargain!

But it’s almost worth NOT finding your own opal when the local dealers offer world class experiences. The 50,000 stubbies* from which Joe’s Opal Showroom is made house fabulous opal jewellery, gifts and artwork, for example. And (arguably) the cheapest above ground opal mine tour in the world is on offer at the Red Earth Opal Showroom and Cafe!

A fine substitute for those (all right, ME) too gutless to follow Pilchard’s lead down a 45 ft shaft on a shaky iron ladder into the depths of the owner’s mine …

Home on the White Cliffs Opal Fields, Outback New South Wales
Home on the White Cliffs Opal Fields, Outback New South Wales

And there’s more unique experiences up for grabs on the self-guided White Cliffs Heritage trail tour. The interpretive signs give fascinating snippets of local history and the tour takes you through all the town’s vantage points – and the colourful array of opal field dwellings. Ironically, despite being the first of its kind in Australia (and possibly the world), the innovative White Cliffs Solar Power station is no longer operational, with town power supplied from the grid.

White Cliffs Golf Course
White Cliffs Golf Course

But the golf course IS functional – and provides a unique challenge to those more accustomed to conventional courses. But enticing as these attractions are, do they comprise the ultimate paradise? No way! And even the most experienced golfer needs more than 7-and-a-half minutes to get round THIS course!!!

We didn’t need the helpful ranger at the eco-friendly Paroo-Darling National Park Visitor’s Centre to tell us we’d landed in bird watcher’s heaven! The Nankeen Kestrel on the ‘White Cliffs’ sign at the town entrance did that! As did Orange Chat, Stubble Quail and Horsfield’s Bushlark feeding in the gutters on the Tibooburra road, and Chestnut-crowned Babbler and Chirruping Wedgebill rampaging in the scrub around the fossicking pits.

Dam near White Cliffs
Dam near White Cliffs

The early morning splendour of this water-bird filled dam and sightings of dry country nomad White-fronted Honeyeater made up for the tyre-shreddingly rugged road to massive Lake Peery – full on our June 2011 visit.

Meaning we didn’t get to see the artesian mound springs on the lake bed that provide a habitat for the rare salt pipe wort (eriocaulon carsonii) when the lake is dry! Paradise, yes. Ultimate? Not quite …

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park via White Cliffs, NSW
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park via White Cliffs, NSW

So what DOES the ultimate 7-and-a-half minute paradise look like?

Before we got to White Cliffs, the magnificent setting of our campsite at Lake Pamamaroo made up for the nearest loo being 1 km and the nearest fresh water 16 km down the road. And after 6 nights of severely curtailed ablutions also due to a) low temperatures; b) the absence of a shower block; and c) minimal gas and water? Well … you figure it out!! The excitement of having possibly the only Milo-swigging, bird watching, pyromaniac, fisherman partner on the continent was starting to wear off …

Still life at White Cliffs
Still life at White Cliffs

So as darkness fell on our first night in White Cliffs and the temperature plummeted, Pilchard and I headed for the caravan park amenities. Where for the absolute bargain price of $1, a wondrous heart-stoppingly blissful geyser of HOT water poured through the shower. For exactly 7-and-a-half minutes!!

That’s what I’m talking about! Paradise!!

And not a palm tree in sight!

Want MORE?

* One stubby = one 375 ml beer bottle

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #17 – White Cliffs, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/09/australias-scenic-public-toilets-17-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/09/australias-scenic-public-toilets-17-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 13:09:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=188 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The exacting recreational pursuit of opal fossicking demands much of its devotees. Physical strength, mental fortitude, stamina and courage at the absolute minimum. Oh, and the ability to cross your legs and hold on for grim death when nature calls! So it was a relief (in more ways than one!) to find that the ability to cross ones legs for[...]

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

Fossicking Fields Dunny, White Cliffs, New South Wales
Fossicking Fields Dunny, White Cliffs, New South Wales

The exacting recreational pursuit of opal fossicking demands much of its devotees. Physical strength, mental fortitude, stamina and courage at the absolute minimum.

Oh, and the ability to cross your legs and hold on for grim death when nature calls!

So it was a relief (in more ways than one!) to find that the ability to cross ones legs for hours was not required on the opal fields at White Cliffs!

Spending a day making your fortune on the remote western New South Wales moonscape of the White Cliffs opal fossicking area need not, therefore, result in a nasty urinary tract infection – because these opal fields are CIVILISED!!

Well … almost!

Looking for Opal, White Cliffs Fossicking Fields
Looking for Opal, White Cliffs Fossicking Fields

This loo isn’t quite the Australian Scenic Public Toilet to which regular readers have become accustomed!

White Cliffs Dunny
White Cliffs Dunny

But while its construction from recycled corrugated iron underlines its humble origins, this loo is not without mod cons and comforts.

For example, the can has a hand-carved wooden seat.

Inside the White Cliffs Dunny!
Inside the White Cliffs Dunny!

And the detachable sarlon screen (that’s the green stuff!) ensures ones’ business remains private in the event of a ‘run’ on the amenities!

If that’s not enough, the dunny is only a few small steps away from the opal mine shafts – so taking a ‘break’ need not mean putting your dreams of opal mining riches on hold for long!

Progressive in more ways than one (it’s arguably the most remote OZ location to stock the fabulous ‘Journey Jottings’ products*), White Cliffs leads the way in showing that ‘budget’ doesn’t have to mean ‘spartan’ in this true representation of ‘convenience’ in all its guises.

So maybe this progressive and innovative design is worth patenting, and producing en masse for use around the world?!?!

Am I the only one who’d like to see that??!!

* No, they’re NOT paying me …

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