Outback Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/outback/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Tue, 04 May 2021 12:53:07 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Outback Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/outback/ 32 32 Things to do in Thargomindah, Outback Queensland https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/02/things-to-do-in-thargomindah/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/02/things-to-do-in-thargomindah/#comments Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:02:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=295 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Thargomindah is conveniently located between Eulo and Noccundra – two other Outback Queensland localities you’ve probably never heard of.  At over 1000 km (620 miles) west of Brisbane, it’s not a place you come across by chance. But there are plenty of things to do in Thargomindah. As part of the Adventure Way, a self-drive trail from Brisbane to Innamincka[...]

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London, Paris, Thargomindah - Flags at the Thargomindah Hydro Power Plant, Outback Queensland
London, Paris, Thargomindah – Flags at the Thargomindah Hydro Power Plant, Outback Queensland

Thargomindah is conveniently located between Eulo and Noccundra – two other Outback Queensland localities you’ve probably never heard of.  At over 1000 km (620 miles) west of Brisbane, it’s not a place you come across by chance. But there are plenty of things to do in Thargomindah. As part of the Adventure Way, a self-drive trail from Brisbane to Innamincka just over the South Australian border, it’s worth stopping over to see what this remote Outback area has to offer.

Thargomindah was the name of a nearby station in the area, but it’s not clear where the name came from.  Some say it’s an Aboriginal word meaning either ‘echidna’ or ‘cloud of dust’.  Although we didn’t see any echidnas there, we couldn’t avoid seeing lots of dust, so that’s the one I’m sticking with.

The Bulloo in Flood

Bulloo River in Flood at the entrance to Thargomindah, Outback Queensland
Bulloo River in Flood at the entrance to Thargomindah, Outback Queensland

The Bulloo River was in flood when we arrived.  And getting into Thargo, as the locals call it, meant crossing the river at the town’s eastern entrance.

That gave us a rare opportunity to test our camper trailer’s ability to withstand over 30 cm (12 inches) of flood waters over the causeway by driving through it.

Successful? Let’s just say the floors needed cleaning anyway! Luckily, the flood was caused by rain in the catchment area upstream, so the dry Outback atmosphere soon got rid of any lingering dampness.
And 24 hours later, the flood had receded completely.
During a major flood, the town relies on a ‘Flood Truck’ with special modifications so it can cross the river to bring in supplies. That, and the fact the nearest coffee shop is a couple of hours down the road, is a dead giveaway that Thargomindah is in a very remote area!

Thargomindah’s hydro-electric scheme

Thanks to its Artesian bore, Thargomindah was the third town in the world after London and Paris to use hydroelectric power for street lighting. I’m not sure if Paris and London are aware of Thargomindah’s achievement, but the national flags of each of the three cities are flown as a reminder of its place in history.
The Thargomindah Bore, Outback Queensland
The Thargomindah Bore, Outback Queensland

When the bore was first drilled, water was first found at a 795 metre (2608 feet) depth.  With around 1300 cubic metres of water at 84 degrees C produced per day, the pressure was used to generate the town’s electricity supply, Australia’s first hydro-electric scheme.  The bore is part of Australia’s Great Artesian Basin, a network of underground aquifers covering 1.7 million square kilometres that makes living in many outback areas viable.

The bore is critical to the town’s survival in more ways than one and its mysteries can be discovered by taking a tour. Our tour guide pointed out some bristles in the pool below the outlet – apparently dead pigs are sometimes left in the hot water overnight to cook them and make skinning easier! SOOO devastated we didn’t get to see this phenomenon for ourselves!!

Sunset over Thargomindah Bore, Outback Queensland
Sunset over Thargomindah Bore, Outback Queensland

We did get to experience sunset at the bore though, when the steam rising from the hot water against a setting sun made wonderful photo opportunities. 

The importance of water in the Outback

When I first saw Frederick White’s sculpture ‘Drawing Water’ from a distance, I thought it was an unfinished public amenities block.  That’s how much I know about art.

'Drawing Water' Sculpture, Thargomindah
‘Drawing Water’ Sculpture, Thargomindah

But the sculpture is actually a clever reminder of Thargomindah’s reliance on bore water.  Its 52 poles symbolise the 4,700 bores that deliver a reliable source of water to Outback Australia, without which the area would be uninhabitable for much of the year.  The outback bore’s average depth of 500 metres (1640 feet) is represented by reflective discs in the centre. Ironically, these were covered in dust, with no sign of the floods that had isolated the town for several months earlier that year.

The sculpture’s setting in grass, dry ground or dust also reflects recent weather conditions.
Light reflecting and sparkling on polished surfaces and shadows cast by the poles are part of the sculpture’s beauty. They are perhaps a further reminder of alternative, less reliable water sources such as rain, the nearby Bulloo river and Lake Bindegolly.
Bulloo River from Weir, Thargomindah, Outback Queensland
Bulloo River from Weir, Thargomindah, Outback Queensland

The manager of the Explorers Caravan Park where we stayed says rain often bypasses the town and falls further north in the catchment area, causing the river to flood. The amount of water lying in the street made us think it must rain quite often – but the street water came from sprinklers and hoses running 24/7 to ensure a ready supply of hot water from the bore.  Modifications completed since our visit ensures this no longer needs to happen.  But having a reliable water supply means that the townsfolk can have green lawns and gardens in the middle of the outback all year round.

Thargomindah Town Attractions

Thargomindah Hydroelectric Plant, Outback Queensland
Thargomindah Hydroelectric Plant, Outback Queensland

Start your search for things to do in Thargomindah at the Visitor Information Centre.  It’s located in the old Thargomindah hospital complex, also an historic museum.  Made from mud bricks, the building started life as a hospital in 1888.  Later it accommodated a visiting service from the Flying Doctor base in Charleville, and an outpatient clinic.  Mud brick buildings were common in the early days, but the old hospital is one of the few remaining buildings of this type.

Bulloo River, Thargomindah
Bulloo River, Thargomindah

Leahy House is also made from mud brick and now houses a museum. The house was once owned by Sir Sidney Kidman, the well known cattle baron.  Its permanent displays and exhibitions offer another insight into the history of the region, as does the Old Jail.

An old Cobb & Co crossing below the Bulloo River bridge is the start of the River Walk, and also part of the town heritage walk.  This dodgy and rocky river crossing was once the main access to town, meaning no access when the river was in flood.  In the 1890’s, Thargo was the centre for Cobb & Co coaches servicing the surrounding area, once the only way of moving between towns.

For a good introduction to the things to do in Thargomindah, take one – or all – of its three town walks.  The scenic Bulloo River Walk follows the river from the Cobb & Co Crossing to the Pelican Point Picnic area. The Heritage Walk winds through the town past buildings and sites of interest.  The Hydro Walk starts in town, passes the new bore and continues to the Hydro Power Plant display.

Lake Bindegolly National Park

Lake Bindegolly, via Thargomindah, Outback Queensland
Lake Bindegolly, via Thargomindah, Outback Queensland

Nearby Lake Bindegolly was completely dry on our first visit, making birdwatching a bit pointless.  The number of birds spotted as we trudged the 9.5 km (5.9 mile) circuit track around this dusty wasteland was easy to count. Zero.

Luckily, on our next visit the lake was full.  And not just full, chock-a-block FULL!! Lake Bindegolly, part of a chain of lakes that form the Lake Bindegolly National Park, covers much of the Park’s 14,000 hectares (54 square miles).  The birds had re-discovered the lake, and returned with a vengeance.

Great Crested Grebe on Lake Bindegolly
Great Crested Grebe on Lake Bindegolly

Easily visible from the road, thousands of Great Crested Grebe were nesting.  We watched as they cavorted on the water around us, swimming, hunting, fighting, building nests, hatching eggs, playing dead when they spotted us. 

I was looking forward to walking the track again until a howling wind began to blow. It was so strong I could hardly stand upright as it knifed through my clothing, and so cold, I could barely stutter ‘let’s go back to the car’ though my chattering teeth.

Back at the car was another problem.  Unable to manage parking in one of the many empty spots in this spacious car park, the only other tourist for miles had parked directly behind us. Whether she or he intended to box us in is unknown as we didn’t exchange words.  But it’s definitely possible she or he didn’t figure on Pilchard’s ability to execute a 17 point turn to extricate us, a masterclass in precision driving.

Thargomindah Fast Facts

Thargomindah Windmill
Thargomindah Windmill
  • Where:  1000 km west of Brisbane, 200 km west of Cunnamulla
  • How to get there:  Self-drive the Adventure Way, Thargomindah is on the Bulloo Developmental Road
  • Facilities:  Supermarket (with hardware), Roadhouse (with meals), Pub, Post Office, Community Centre with internet access, Library, Swimming Pool, public park with Barbecues
  • Where to Stay: Two motels and a caravan park in town, and a station stay 90 km south.
Back in Thargo, we were told by a local that a town’s unemployment rate could be gauged by visiting the pub during the day. Fewer daytime visitors indicates higher employment levels. What with the many kilometres of shire roads to be maintained and significant mining exploration, there’s virtually no unemployment in Thargo.  While life there can be challenging, there are plenty of things to do in Thargomindah, which makes it a great place for a genuine Outback experience.

Want MORE?

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7 Days in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia – A Beginners Guide https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/#comments Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:49:45 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5628 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am. Praise be I’m in[...]

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Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am.

Praise be I’m in South Australia, so I’ve pretty much got that killer landscape all to myself!

St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

St Mary’s Peak, 1171 metres (3842 ft) above sea level and highest point, is pretty low by world standards. But from the plains below, it soars to the apex of a 17 km (10.5 mile) stretch of jagged pinnacles forming the outer rim of Wilpena Pound, best known attraction in the Flinders Ranges.

Cars on the road below, dwarfed by these ancient landforms eroded over millenia to a fraction of their original size, will rust into oblivion before these timeless ranges turn to dust.

Yes, channelling my inner philosopher while travelling the folds and faults of the Adelaide Geosyncline forming these ranges is WAY too easy!

Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

It’s also WAY too easy to admire the staggering scenery, especially because there’s no amazing view that can’t be enhanced by an awesome scenic loo! IMHO. But even if you’re not an amenities admirer or dunny detective like me, it’s got enough mountains, gorges, historic sites, wildflowers, rock formations, lookouts, 4WD tracks and wildlife to keep you busy.

VERY busy.

SO … if you HAVEN’T been here, you’ll be wondering where to start, right?

DON’T PANIC! All you need to do is keep reading!

This 7 Day Flinders Ranges itinerary is mostly based in the Central Flinders Ranges, and Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

That’s because I’m being gentle with you – after all, it’s your first time!

Dusk in Parachilna Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

There are LOTS of Southern, Northern and Central Flinders Ranges things to do, but you can’t do everything in 7 days, right? So I’ve made it it easy for you with a week’s worth of some of my favourite activities and attractions in three great Flinders Ranges destinations.

You can thank me later.

Ready? GO!

HOW to get there:

Get started by driving to Quorn, 335 km (208 miles) north of Adelaide in the Southern Flinders Ranges. Pick whichever self-drive route from Adelaide which appeals to you the most.

View from the Dutchman's Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Dutchman’s Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Route 1 – Food and Wine trail via Clare: drive 143 km (89 miles) to Clare (detour via the Barossa Valley on the way if you like), then 193 km (120 miles) to Quorn via Laura, Wirrabara and Wilmington.
  • Route 2 – Country South Australia: drive 216 km (134 miles) to Jamestown via Clare, then 148 km (92 miles) to Quorn via Orroroo and Wilmington (detour into Alligator Gorge near Wilmington if you like). Yes, this way is a bit longer.
  • Route 3 – Coastal Ports (tautology alert!) via Port Augusta: drive 306 km (190 miles) to Port Augusta via Port Wakefield, Port Pirie and Port Germein (add a few extra km for detours into the ports), then 41 km (25.5 miles)to Quorn.

Be WARNED: If you’re sightseeing along the way, getting to Quorn will take nearly a full day. To make the most of the Flinders Ranges, I suggest starting your trip a day early!

Choosing THINGS to DO:

Select from my lists of things to do in each destination. Attractions and activities are split into MUST DO – my suggested top picks; and MORE Things to DO – alternative/extra activities and attractions.

And for the most pleasurable places to do your business, look out for my *Scenic Loo alerts!

Days 1 and 2: Quorn and Southern Flinders Ranges

STAY: Quorn Caravan Park (Campground, Cabins). A range of other accommodation is available in and around Quorn including Motel, Hotel, Bed and Breakfast, Cottages and Air BnB

MUST DO in Quorn:

Steam Train on Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Pichi Richi Railway – Half-day Steam Train tours leave from Quorn every weekend, so plan your trip accordingly and book ahead
  • Dutchman’s Stern – Hike the 10.5 km (6.5 mile) loop to the Dutchman’s Stern summit for spectacular views over the ranges and Gulf and fantastic Southern Flinders scenery
  • Buckaringa Gorge – Drive the ~80 km (50 miles) loop (some dirt roads) through classic Southern Flinders Ranges country and historic sites of interest to Buckaringa Gorge and Lookout

MORE Things to DO in Quorn:

  • HIKES: Devils Peak (1.3 km return); Warren Gorge (5.2 km loop – *Scenic Loo alert!); Mt Brown Summit Hike (15 km loop); Mt Brown Hike (11.6 km)
  • DRIVES: Alligator Gorge (via Wilmington – 55 km one way); Quorn/Port Augusta/Wilmington Loop (125 km loop, sealed roads)
  • QUORN: Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre; Heritage Walk (4.7 km); Quorn Native Flora Reserve (2 short walks); Cafés
MORE about the Quorn Region:
Kanyaka Ruins, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Days 3, 4, 5 – Wilpena Pound and Flinders Ranges National Park

On Day 3 drive 67 km (41.5 miles) to Hawker.

MUST DO en route to Hawker/Wilpena Pound:

  • Kanyaka Homestead and Death Rock – stop at these historic sites en route from Quorn to Hawker for insights into local colonial and indigenous heritage.
  • Wilpena Panorama – View this amazing 360º painting at Hawker’s Jeff Morgan Gallery of the summit view from Flinders Ranges highest point St Marys Peak (see trail notes below)

From Hawker, drive 52 km (32 miles) to Wilpena Pound.

View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

STAY: Rawnsley Park Station (Campground,Cabins, Units, Eco-Villas); or Wilpena Pound Resort (Campground, Standard and Deluxe Rooms, Safari Tents). Other options including Station Stays and campgrounds in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park are also available in the area.

MUST DO at Wilpena Pound:

  • St Mary’s Peak – This strenuous hike (14.6 – 21.5 km (9-13.5 miles) depending on route taken) is a Flinders Ranges showpiece. But if you viewed the panorama in Hawker (see above), you already what’s to be seen from the summit! (ps I haven’t done this hike either).
  • Wilkawillina Gorge – Drive the 34 km (mostly dirt) past the Bunkers. The gorge hike is 11.4 km (7 miles) one way – even if you don’t do the whole walk, the scenery is spectacular.
The Bunkers, Wilkawillina Gorge
Why The Bunkers ROCK! Wilkawillina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park
  • Brachina Gorge – drive about 50 km (31 miles, mostly dirt) via the Bunyeroo Valley and Gorge then along Brachina Gorge’s Geological Time Tunnel with interpretive signs and lookouts, walks and classic outback scenery. Return the same way, or via the ABC range and main road. (*Scenic Loo alert!)
  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – 10 and 13 km (6.2 and 8 miles) from Wilpena Pound. Visit them en route to Wilkawillina or Blinman.
  • Bridle Gap – Part of the Heysen Trail, this 18.8 km return hike crosses the Pound and offers great views from the Bumbinyunna Range on the other side. Much of the hike is flat and easy going and is an alternative to the much more difficult St Mary’s Peak trail.
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

MORE Things to DO at Wilpena Pound:

This is just a sampler of alternative activities – ask for more details at your accommodation.

  • HIKES: Hills Homestead (6.6 km); Wangara Lookout (7.8 km – incl Hills Homestead); Ferntree Falls (5.2 km); Pines Cave (5.4); Rawnsley Bluff (12.6 km)
  • HERITAGE: Old Wilpena Station, Sacred Canyon
  • DRIVE: Arkapena Track for Scenery and Lookouts, Moralana Scenic Drive
  • RIDE: Scenic Flights; Willow Springs Skytrek 4WD (self-drive and escorted tours); Mountain Biking on Mawson Trail
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
MORE from the Central Flinders Ranges:
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

Days 6 and 7 – Blinman and Angorichina

Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia

On Day 6 drive 59 km (36.5 miles) north to Blinman.

MUST DO en route to Blinman:

  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – stop if you haven’t already seen these (see above)
  • Perawurtina Cultural Heritage Site – Adnyamathanha rock paintings and engravings
  • Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China – Interesting rocky outcrops, and yet another Great Wall – this one Flinders Ranges Style!

MUST DO at Blinman:

  • Blinman Underground Experience – the Blinman Mines Tour comes with a Sound & Light show, expert local commentary and a fascinating dose of the area’s mining and social history

Drive 14 km (8.7 miles) from Blinman to Angorichina Village.

STAY: Angorichina Tourist Village (Campground, Cabins and *Scenic Loo alert!). Alternatively, there’s a range of accommodation in Blinman including Hotel, Cottages, Station Stays

MUST DO at Angorichina:

  • Blinman Pools Hike – Follow Parachilna and Blinman Creeks through sheer cliff faces, gorges and rocky creek beds for 10 km (return) to 1st pool, then 1 km (return) to 2nd pool.
  • Glass Gorge – A 43 km loop via Blinman through the picturesque Glass Gorge
  • Nuccaleena Historic Mine Site – add another 34 km onto the Glass Gorge loop and visit this remote mine. This leg is 4WD on rough, rugged roads and station tracks.
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

MORE Things to DO at Angorichina:

  • HIKE: Heysen Trail – this 1200 km (745 mile) hike starts in Parachilna Gorge. You won’t have time to walk the whole trail (!), but take a 6 km return hike into the Gorge along the track to experience this part of the ranges
  • RIDE: Mountain Biking, 4WD tours
  • BLINMAN: Blinman Walking Trail (3.5 km); Cafes and Gallery, Mine Office
MORE about Blinman and Angorichina
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges

More Adventures

So … now your 7 days are up and it’s time to go. But the adventure isn’t over yet.

Return to Adelaide by driving 18 km through Parachilna Gorge to Parachilna (*Scenic Loo alert!)for a Feral Mixed Grill and a Fargher Lager!

A great end to a great week.

But the good news is that if you’re not yet ready to end your holiday, you can check out the things to do in Port Augusta on your way back!!

Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Flinders Ranges Fast Facts:

  • WHAT: The Flinders Ranges is a 430 km long region of mountain ranges in the South Australian Outback. It includes the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park; Vulkathanha-Gammon Ranges National Park, Mt Remarkable National Park, several Conservation Parks, many natural attractions and numerous sites of historic and cultural significance.
  • WHERE: The Flinders Ranges are north of Adelaide. From Adelaide, it’s 335 km (208 miles) to Quorn, 400 km (248 miles) to Hawker and 508 km (315 miles) to Blinman.
  • WHEN: The best time to go is from April to October. Temperatures in the hotter months of November to March can range from 30º – 45º C (86-113 F)
  • DRIVING: Self-drive is the easiest way to get around. PLEASE NOTE: some of the roads and trails described in this post require 4WD or high clearance. Please check road conditions and vehicle suitability before you drive.
  • FACILITIES:  Meals, groceries and other supplies are available in smaller centres such as Wilpena Pound Resort, Rawnsley Park Station, Blinman and Angorichina Tourist Village. Fuel is available at Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena Pound, Angorichina Tourist Village and Parachilna.

Want MORE?

View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

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Catchya at Copley! Things to Do and See in Outback South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/copley-things-to-do-outback-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/copley-things-to-do-outback-south-australia/#comments Tue, 13 Jun 2017 12:04:00 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5440 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Catchya at Copley!* We leaped from the car and hit the ground running as a convoy of 4WDs pulled into the car park behind us. Car doors slammed. They were gaining on us, but we were still a few vital seconds ahead as we slid through the door and reached the counter first. And that’s exactly where I needed to[...]

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Copley Sunset, Outback South Australia
Copley Sunset, Outback South Australia

Catchya at Copley!*

We leaped from the car and hit the ground running as a convoy of 4WDs pulled into the car park behind us. Car doors slammed. They were gaining on us, but we were still a few vital seconds ahead as we slid through the door and reached the counter first.

And that’s exactly where I needed to be to score one of the Quandong Café’s legendary quandong pies this late in the day.

Play fair? No way! Because if I missed out, things would’ve gotten UGLY. So as the wave of humanity washed up around me, I deployed my secret weapon.

That’s what ‘elbows’ are for, right?’

Flat Top, Copley, Outback South Australia
Flat Top, Copley, Outback South Australia

540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide and deep in the South Australian Outback isn’t where you’d normally expect to find an oasis of civilisation.  After all, it’s the driest place in the driest state of the driest continent on earth

But the small town of Copley is no ordinary place. The Copley Caravan Park managers (and café owners!) made it easy to base ourselves there for a few days to discover its hidden secrets.  Like us, you might just find that the longer you stay, the longer you WANT to stay!

Not just to sample those fine quandong pies again. Or check out the array of Outback Scenic Loos!

Here’s a few of my favourite Copley things to do in a handy 4-9 Day itinerary.  Look out for the *STAY Another Day! signs for optional extra days if you’d like to extend your stay!

You’re welcome!!

Day 1: Explore Copley

Aroona Dam Sanctuary
Aroona Dam Sanctuary, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Aroona Dam Sanctuary, via Copley, Outback South Australia

I never saw the ‘before’ picture.

Back in the 1990’s, a 200+ person community project turned 44 km² of once-degraded bushland around the 5000 megalitre Aroona Dam into a Sanctuary. So now all you’ll see is the ‘after’ picture – the stunning scenery of the northern Flinders Ranges AND a scenic Aussie Loo!

All this makes the sanctuary a cool place to hang out, have a picnic, take a walk and spot the wildflowers. If you get lucky, you could also spot one of the yellow-footed rock wallabies reintroduced into the area.

The Retention Dam
The Retention Dam, Copley, Outback South Australia
The Retention Dam, Copley, Outback South Australia

It’s a tough choice between fishing and bird-watching so at the Retention Dam just out of town heading north.  So it’s just as well you can do BOTH.

Or neither!

Climb Flat Top

It’s big. It’s RED. It’s just out of town – and visible from pretty much everywhere in Copley. And if you can’t work out what the locals call a small mountain with its top sliced off, you’re just not trying.

Welcome to Flat Top (see photo above). There’s no marked walking track, but don’t let that stop you – the views from the top are sensational! Not that energetic? Walk around below it. Not THAT energetic? Sit out the front of the cafe and watch everyone else walking up or around it!!

Find the Head
The 'Face' - back in the ranges behind Copley, South Australia
The ‘Head’ – back in the ranges behind Copley, South Australia

To really experience the environment in which towns like this survive, drive up into the ranges west of Copley.

Better still, stop the car and take a walk along these remote country roads.

Expect a surprising array of wildflowers (in season), a starkly beautiful Outback landscape full of amazing colour, and a different perspective of Copley from the lookout point high above.

And the HEAD. But only if you get REALLY lucky 😀

Day 2: THREE Iconic Aussie Tracks in ONE DAY!

Yes, you CAN drive the Strzelecki, Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks in a day. And you don’t need a special rig, or even a 4WD to do it!

No, REALLY – as long as you don’t expect to actually drive the full length of each track, that is! But you can visit each starting point, and you can easily do it in one day from Copley.

AND see a lot of other great Outback attractions along the way.

Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia
On the Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia
Lyndhurst

Just 33 km north of Copley, you’ll find a bush philosopher’s gallery, an unexpected lake and famous bushranger Captain Starlight’s legacy.  They’re all wrapped up in the tiny town of Lyndhurst.

Drive out onto the Strzelecki Track’s tyre-shredding rock and stone ‘road’.  You’re now on the original route Harry Readford – aka Captain Starlight – used to drive 1000 stolen cattle from Queensland to Lyndhurst.

MORE about Lyndhurst and the Ochre Pits HERE

PS Don’t miss the scenic public loo!

Ochre Pits

Want a great sunset shot?

Then leave the Ochre Pits a few kilometres north of Lyndhurst for the return trip to Copley. The late afternoon sun makes the amazing colours of this Indigenous heritage site glow.  Like this.

Ochre Pits at Sunset, via Lyndhurst, Outback South Australia
Ochre Pits at Sunset, via Lyndhurst, Outback South Australia
Farina – The Back-of-Beyond Bakery
Angels Rest, once a brothel in Farina, Outback South Australia
Angels Rest, once a brothel in Farina, Outback South Australia

I couldn’t believe my luck when I saw the ‘Bakery Now Baking’ sign on the side of the dusty road just 24 km north of Lyndhurst. It HAD to be an antique. Didn’t it?

Actually, no. You CAN combine outback travel with FAAAAABULOUS food!

How? Because in an astonishingly civilised move by the Farina Restoration Society, Farina’s derelict Bakery was the first building in this historic ghost town to be reconstructed. Now it operates for around 8 weeks a year raising funds to restore more of the Farina historic site.

Wander the open air museum, strolling the walking tracks or visiting the campground’s scenic loo combined with awesome goods baked on the premises.  That’s a killer way to make history fun.

And it’s all the better for knowing my significant personal contribution to the bakery fundraiser will account for a LOT more upgrades!!

MORE about Farina Bakery HERE

*STAY Another Day – Day #5! Return to Farina and book the 3-4 hour Farina Springs tour.  Travel in the Farina Station 4WD or Tag-along – the bakery will still be there when you get back!

Clockwise from Left:  Afghan Cameleers Monument; Tom Kruse’s Mail Truck; Lake Eyre Yacht Club;
Railway Memorabilia from the Ghan at the Marree Railway Station
Marree and the Postal Delivery Route from Hell

If you can tear yourself away from the fleshpots of Farina and drive another 45 km up the road, you’ll find remote outback town Marree.  It’s at the end of the Old Ghan railway line and start of the legendary Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks.

Actually, ‘legend’ is a word that’s used a lot around Marree.

Especially about Tom Kruse, the (legendary) outback mailman.  His (legendary) adventures delivering mail along the 517 km of rocks, sand dunes and gibbers that make up the (legendary) Birdsville track in his (legendary) Leyland Badger Truck were immortalised in a (legendary) movie “The Back of Beyond”.

Experience the legend yourself, at least for a few minutes. Drive a short way along the Oodnadatta and Birdsville tracks which, together with Lyndhurst’s Strzelecki, mean you’ve travelled on three legendary Aussie roads.

Two Iconic OZ tracks meet at Marree
Two Iconic OZ tracks meet at Marree

In ONE DAY!

MORE about Marree HERE

Now all you have to do is drive back to Copley. The setting sun should be lighting up the Ochre Pits right around now 😀

*STAY Another Day – Day #6! Drive back to Marree, then have a longer experience on the Birdsville Track and drive about 50 km to Clayton Station.

*STAY Another Day – Day #7! Alternatively, take a drive on Witchellina Nature Reserve. Three 4WD nature drives show you the rugged outback at its best.

Day 3: Wilderness Adventure

Saying Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is an eco-adventure wonderland is a bit like saying Uluru is quite a big rock.

There are the painted hills surrounding the tourist village and stunningly scenic hikes through amazing gorges and chasms.  Super-challenging 4WD tracks through wild mountain ranges and historic sites and astronomical marvels courtesy of unpolluted skies.  Arkaroola is a total outdoor adventure package surrounded by the best collection of geological marvels in Australia.

Yes, it’d take more than just a day trip to see all THAT!

Coulthard Lookout, Arkaroola, Outback South Australia
Coulthard Lookout, Arkaroola, Outback South Australia

But if you want to see the very BEST of Arkaroola and you’ve only got a day to spare, then book in to the AMAZING Ridge-top Tour.  It’s a 4.5 hour drive to Sillers Lookout through rugged ranges on rough tracks in a purpose built 4WD tour vehicle. Be warned though – to do this in a day, you’ll have to leave early to get there in time! But it’s SO worth it!

MORE about Arkaroola’s Ridge-top Tour HERE!

Luckily, Arkaroola has its own campground with powered and unpowered sites. But if your rig’s not up to the 130 km all-weather dirt road east of Copley, leave it at the Copley Caravan Park and stay in one of the lodges or cabins. And if your vehicle isn’t up to it, leave that at Copley as well and hire a 4WD!

MORE about Arkaroola HERE

Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout
Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour

*STAY Another Day – Day 8! The road to Arkaroola can be an interesting day trip in itself.  There are Indigenous Cultural tours run by the local Adnyamathanha people at Iga Warta, Italowie Gorge walking trail and picnic area, views over Lake Frome and Grindells Hut in the Gammon Ranges.

Day 4: History and Heritage

Outback Road via Copley, South Australia
Outback Road via Copley, South Australia

As we sped, bouncing and bumping over a stretch of road so rocky I was practically levitating, I felt grateful for just one thing.

Praise be we weren’t travelling in OUR car!

But our travelling companion’s 4WD managed the drive south of Copley without mishap. As we drove a network of dirt tracks through the stunning northern Flinders Ranges, we explored some significant sites in South Australia’s colonial history.

Ruins near Puttapa Gap, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Ruins near Puttapa Gap, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Puttapa Gap

You won’t see anything much just driving through the gap where the old Transcontinental Railway line once ran through the ranges en route to Beltana.

Stop the car and discover some of the old structures around the rock cutting and the classic outback country through which it once ran.

Beltana

Shifting the railway line a few kilometres away was the end of the viability of State Heritage Area town Beltana, built in 1870. The town is still inhabited, but an interpretive trail leads past some of the remaining building ruins.  These include the old Dunesk Mission building with links to the Rev. John Flynn, instrumental in founding the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Sliding Rock
Sliding Rock Scenic Loo, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Sliding Rock Scenic Loo, via Copley, Outback South Australia

22 km further on along that rocky stretch of road above is the ruins of a copper ore mine at Sliding Rock.  It’s got the only combination loo/visitor information depot I’ve EVER seen in OZ!

This remote State Heritage listed site with its duelling chimneys – one round (Cornish) and one square (Welsh) – hunks of copper ore and picturesque setting is a great place to explore.

*STAY Another Day – Day 9! Return to Sliding Rock and keep going to the privately owned Warraweena Conservation Park with its own campground and series of self-drive 4WD tracks.

Northern Flinders Ranges near Copley, Outback South Australia
Northern Flinders Ranges near Copley, Outback South Australia

SO … with its amazing array natural attractions, small towns, historic sites, hikes, self-drive tours, wildflowers, scenic loos AND the opportunity for Bakery mega-overload, Copley just might be the ultimate accessible Outback destination!

Copley Caravan Park, Outback South Australia
Copley Caravan Park, Outback South Australia

FAST FACTS

  • Where:  Copley is 540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide in the Northern Flinders Ranges
  • Stay:  Copley Caravan Park, or nearby Leigh Creek Caravan Park.  Other campgrounds are at Lyndhurst, Farina, Marree, Arkaroola, Warraweena
  • When:  The best time to travel is from May to October when temperatures are cooler and more attractions are open
  • How to get there:  Self Drive is the best option.

Want MORE?

*The phrase “Catchya at Copley” is from the excellent tourist brochure produced by the Copley Caravan Park.

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Explore Corner Country! Tibooburra, Milparinka and Cameron Corner, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/03/corner-country-tibooburra-milparinka-cameron-corner/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/03/corner-country-tibooburra-milparinka-cameron-corner/#comments Sun, 19 Mar 2017 13:48:16 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5301 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Our Corner Country Adventure Begins! Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list. But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at[...]

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Our Corner Country Adventure Begins!

Dingo Fence at Cameron Corner, New South Wales
Dingo Fence at Cameron Corner, New South Wales

Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list.

But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at the same time!**

Anyway, it was winter – or what passes for winter downunder – so the heat thing wouldn’t be a problem. We’d leave the camper trailer behind while we sussed out the rugged roads. And I was getting itchy feet after being home for a couple of months. So what the heck.

‘Let’s go,’ I told Pilchard.

Just as well.

Or I’d have missed out BIG time …

… On the thrill of having a tyre gutted by a totally new and unexpected object. On being marooned in the Outback. And on standing in 3 States all at once!!

Yes, I have a low amusement threshhold. AND I’m getting ahead of myself …

Chances are, anyone heading north on the Silver City Highway from Broken Hill en route to Innamincka, Birdsville, Coopers Creek or the Diamantina chances has passed through, or even stayed overnight in Tibooburra.

But was Tibooburra a road-trip destination in itself?

We had a week to spare, and were about to discover exactly what to see and do in Corner Country – the remote and rugged north-west corner of New South Wales!

Broken Hill to Tibooburra: Getting There is half the FUN!

Emus on the Silver City Highway, New South Wales
Emus on the Silver City Highway, New South Wales

Heading north after leaving Broken Hill – aka the Silver City – the road to Tibooburra – aka the Silver City Highway – winds through the Barrier Ranges, including 30+ km of extensive roadworks* just out of Broken Hill where bitumen was being laid. Until you pass through Fowlers Gap and suddenly it doesn’t.

It’s a great place to play ‘spot the emu’.

The Packsaddle Roadhouse, Silver City Highway, New South Wales
The Packsaddle Roadhouse, Silver City Highway, New South Wales

Half-way is the Packsaddle Roadhouse, with the only fuel, food and accommodation en route – perfect for travellers stranded by road closures after heavy rain. Over lunch and a trip to the Scenic Loo, we watched the Packsaddle Cat score his (or maybe her) body weight in table scraps by shameless begging in the outdoor dining area.

About 50 km further north we stopped to watch the wildlife on Cobham Lake, an Outback oasis overlooked by the lonely grave of an Eliza Kennedy with an odd epitaph ‘For charity covereth a multitude of sins’.

If we’d brought the camper trailer, this spot would have been the end of the journey for the day because camping on the shores of the lake would’ve been AMAZING!

Cobham Lake with Emus, Silver City Highway
Cobham Lake with Emus, Silver City Highway

Between Packsaddle and Tibooburra, the stretches of gravel road became longer and more frequent. You’d have to be MAD to road-trip these roads without investing in some kind of roadside automobile assistance! IMHO!!

300 km (180 miles) and 4 hours after leaving Broken Hill, we arrived in Tibooburra.

And how it got its name from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘heap of rocks’ or why it was once known as ‘The Granites’ really ISN’T one of life’s great mysteries!

A Ghost Town, A Glen and a Gutful of Gibbers!

For an almost-ghost-town, there’s a lot going on in Milparinka with its historic working pub and heritage precinct just 40 km (24 miles) from Tibooburra.

Alfred Hotel, Milparinka, New South Wales
Alfred Hotel, Milparinka, New South Wales

Cars came and went on the dirt tracks, aka ‘roads’. The family running the historic Albert Hotel served coffee, drinks and meals. And the volunteers who keep Milparinka’s restored buildings, museums and open air displays open from March to October dispensed information, advice and directions.

This, a campground, and best of all – a scenic public loo – are what’s left of Milparinka after the Albert Goldfields’ gold ran out back during the Depression. There wasn’t enough remaining business to support both towns, so although Milparinka had the water, Tibooburra got the trade.

Depot Glen, via Milparinka, New South Wales
Depot Glen, via Milparinka, New South Wales

From Milparinka, we headed north-west over a bizarre moonscape of albino gibbers, a fancy name for the milky quartz rocks all over the ground and the closest we’d get to seeing snow in this Aussie winter! Following the banks of Preservation Creek shaded by massive River Red Gums we finally came to Depot Glen, a string of the only permanent waterholes in the district.

Famous Aussie explorer Captain Charles Sturt, on an expedition hoping to discover the mythical waterways of Central Australia, waited out a dry spell here, from January, hottest time of the year, to June when rains finally fell.

So confident were they of finding an inland sea, they’d brought a boat and a couple of sailors across the same arid Outback country we’d followed since leaving Broken Hill. Instead of the waterways they expected, the men spent 6 months stranded by drought building a cairn of rocks several kilometres away on Mt Poole, named for the only expedition member to die at Depot Glen.

There's a car down there! View from Mt Poole, via Tibooburra, New South Wales
There’s a car down there! View from Mt Poole, via Tibooburra, New South Wales

Too gutless to attack the pile of ankle-turning gibbers aka Mt Poole, we didn’t reach the summit. But we climbed high enough to look out over the unforgiving, relentlessly gibber-laden plains stretching to the horizon, and imagine the hardships suffered by this lonely band.

Marooned! In more ways than one …

Marooned! Road Closure signs at Tibooburra, New South Wales
Marooned! Road Closure signs at Tibooburra, New South Wales

Marooned #1: 4 mm (0.015 inches) of rain isn’t all that much, really. But after a wet winter, this overnight downpour was enough to officially close ALL roads entering and leaving Tibooburra.

Marooned #2: We couldn’t have taken a drive anyway. After a day following the explorers along rough, rugged gibber trails we had a flat! We’d never been brought to a standstill by a small piece of bone before – but it’s apparently the most common cause of flat tyres in these parts.

That left us with only one option that day – exploring Tibooburra on foot!

10 Things to Do in Tibooburra

Whether it’s rain, a piece of bone or something else making you take a Tibooburra break, there’s a lot to see and do in and a short distance around the township.

Granite Boulders around Tibooburra, New South Wales
Granite Boulders around Tibooburra, New South Wales

Here’s a few suggestions:

  1. Take a walk … locals say the best time to go prospecting for gold in the main street is after rain!
  2. Grab a brochure about Tibooburra and take the Tibooburra Heritage Walk
  3. Go to the National Parks & Wildlife Visitor Centre for information about the area, maps and track notes for Sturt National Park
  4. See relics from the past at the Courthouse Museum
  5. Check out a replica of Sturt’s boat and other historic memorabilia at Pioneer Park
  6. Explore the Granite Rock piles behind the caravan park. And everywhere else!
  7. Drive – or walk – to Sunset Hill Lookout for great views across the town and surrounds
  8. Take a short drive out to Golden Gully for gold mining heritage memorabilia
  9. Go hunting for South Australia’s floral emblem, the Sturt’s Desert Pea! We found some behind TJ’s roadhouse growing in the gravel
  10. If all else fails, visit the pubs! But not just for a drink – the Two Storey has murals by famous Aussie artists, including Clifton Pugh!

Sturt National Park

Wild, remote and rugged, Sturt National Park is 340,000 hectares of sandhills; gibber plains; jump-ups and mesas; flood plains; gorges; creeks; and what remains of some of the pastoral properties in the area.

Inside the old Woolshed, Mt Wood Station, Sturt National Park
Inside the old Woolshed, Mt Wood Station, Sturt National Park

The Silver City Highway runs right through the park but drive the loop trails just out of Tibooburra for the best bits. Explore the old pastoral properties, look out over the flood plains and climb Mt Wood (4 km return) on the 100 km (~60 mile) Gorge Loop Trail. Or drive through a spectacular eroded landscape with a magnificent lookout, or walk to the Jump-ups (3.5 km return) on the Jumpup Loop Trail.

Or if you’re in a 4WD, take the imaginatively named Middle Road through the varied landscape in the middle of the park – an alternative route to Cameron Corner.

Remember those interpretive brochures you picked up from the National Parks office in Tibooburra? This is where they’ll come in VERY handy!

Jump-up Loop Landscape, Sturt National Park, via Tibooburra, New South Wales
Jump-up Loop Landscape, Sturt National Park, via Tibooburra, New South Wales

And check the road conditions before you leave.

Three States, One HOT Place: Cameron Corner

‘Where’s the road?’ Pilchard shouted as we followed the track down an incline and onto a sea of red clay. Half way to Cameron Corner, it could’ve been a nasty Marooned #3 if the Waka Claypan had still been a clay-slick after the rain!

Crossing the Waka Claypan en route to Cameron Corner from Tibooburra, NSW
Crossing the Waka Claypan en route to Cameron Corner from Tibooburra, NSW

Luckily, a couple of days of fine, warm weather had dried out the road, and 140 km (84 miles) west of Tibooburra the friendly staff at the iconic Cameron Corner Roadhouse efficiently dealt with a steady stream of road-trippers looking for photos, souvenirs, drinks, meals and fuel.

It’s hungry work standing in 3 states at once 😀

Cameron Corner - where South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales meet!
Cameron Corner – where South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales meet!

If we’d had the camper trailer, we SO would have stayed in the Cameron Corner Campground for a round of golf on the nine hole Tri-State golf course – with three holes in each of South Australia, New South Wales and Queensland.

And if we’d had the camper trailer, we’d have headed to Queensland or South Australia instead of back through the dingo fence into New South Wales where we took the Middle Road back to Tibooburra through Sturt National Park.

But, for now, we’d answered that all-important question. Yes, Tibooburra IS a worthy destination in its own right!!

The next day we headed back down the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill.

And not a moment too soon.

Because that night 56 mm (2.2 inches) of rain fell in Tibooburra!

Tibooburra Sunset with Kangaroo, New South Wales
Tibooburra Sunset with Kangaroo, New South Wales

Even if you’re just passing through Tibooburra to Queensland, South Australia or other parts of New South Wales, why not make some of these Corner Country attractions and drives part of your road trip? Or tie your trip in with an event like the Packsaddle Gymkhana, the Tibooburra Festival, the Milparinka Gymkhana and the Tibooburra Rodeo for an even more awesome Outback experience!

Fast Facts:

Sturts Desert Pea
Sturts Desert Pea

WHERE:

  • Tibooburra is 330 km north of Broken Hill on the Silver City Highway.
  • Milparinka is 40 km south of Tibooburra.
  • Cameron Corner is 140 km north-west of Tibooburra.

PLEASE CHECK ROAD CONDITIONS BEFORE YOU TRAVEL!

STAY:

  • Tibooburra has Hotels, Motels, a Caravan Park and campgrounds around the town.
  • Sturt National Park has several campgrounds.
  • Milparinka has a campground and accommodation at the Albert Hotel.
  • Cameron Corner has a campground and accommodation.

We stayed at the Granites Motel & Caravan Park in Tibooburra.

Small piece of bone = FLAT TYRE!

EAT:

  • TJs Roadhouse and the Corner Country Store have meals and takeaway.
  • The Family Hotel and Two Storey Hotel have meals.

Want MORE?

* On our trip in August 2016. Check road conditions before you leave.

** Poeppels Corner,  where Western Australia, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet is 2 States + 1 Territory!

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U is for Uluru: 11 Photos; 9 Bloggers; One Awesome Rock! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/#comments Fri, 02 Oct 2015 10:19:07 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4140 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Uluru. When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC. What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With[...]

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Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Uluru.

When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC.

What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With a 10 km (6 mile) hike around the base if you choose not to take the steep 1.6 km summit track?? And the slowly oxidising surface iron giving it that distinctive red colour, an instant worldwide recognition factor and over 400,000 visitors each year???

Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)
Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)

But Uluru is WAY more than just statistics. An Uluru experience can be awe-inspiring, surprising, fantastical, adventurous, mind-blowing, healing and deeply moving.

Nothing says Australia quite like Uluru.

And nothing says Uluru quite like the nine different first impressions of the Rock shared by nine (8 + me!) travel bloggers!

1 Linda – Journey Jottings

Since I discovered Linda’s fabulous Journey Jottings products back in my early blogging days, they’ve accompanied me to a LOT of Aussie Hot Spots! But not Uluru – yet, anyway!

Linda says: ‘Everyone has seen a gazillion photos of Uluru, but its magical presence simply can’t be conveyed in 2D. And It holds surprises – Hidden delights you can only discover when getting up close and personal.’

Did you know, there are waterholes at Uluru?’

2 Neil – Bushwalking Blog

By Neil’s Bushwalking Blog standards, a tactful person would describe MY bushwalking skills as ‘average’! Perhaps I can get some hiking credibility like Neil’s on one of the Aussie Hiking Tours on his new website!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)

But it’s not all about the walks. Neil’s first impression of Uluru didn’t actualy involve hiking …

Neil says: ‘I was in a pretty bad place when I visited Uluru. I’ll never forget how depressed and hollow I felt as I drove out the Lasseter Highway, and then how its energy completely overcame me as I approached, and I burst into tears and had to pull over. My healing began right there on the side of the road, staring at that incredible rock.’

3 Jo – Zigazag

Jo’s fabulous travel and lifestyle blog Zigazag is a go-to for anyone who wants to discover Western Australia’s hidden secrets AND tales of travel from around the world! But Jo’s WA roots didn’t stop her from visiting Uluru – where you can see what the well-dressed mountaineer was wearing back then!!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag and Lifestyle Fifty)

Jo says: ‘I visited Ayers Rock in 1983 when I was working in Alice Springs. I can remember driving for what seemed like hours along a corrugated red road that made my fillings jangle, and arriving finally at a small hotel, or was it a roadhouse then, I can’t remember where I was told I could pitch my tent. Problem was I’d forgotten the tent pegs so I had to borrow some string to hitch it between two bushes.

Ayers Rock was such a quiet place back then and for me it had an ethereal quality about it and really did change colour at different times of the day. We were encouraged to climb ‘the rock’ when I visited although now I believe it’s actively discouraged. I can remember standing on the summit at a quiet spot on my own, hair billowing in the breeze, wearing a wrap around skirt and a green sweatshirt and feeling at one with the world in that vast horizon in a spiritual place.’

4 Annie – Go Camping

Full of advice about the Aussie camping scene along with gadgets, recipes and bizarre camping must-haves, Annie’s blog Go Camping is the place to be when you’re planning a road-trip or camping holiday.

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)

Annie says: ‘My first impression of Uluru was that of stunned amazement – I had seen so many photos of it over the years, but nothing prepared me for its size and beauty. It really is awe inspiring when you are up close to it, and walking around the base, seeing all these different aspects of it.

Must do for every Aussie!’

5 Andy – Travelling Type

After getting my regular fix of out-of-the-way Australia from Andy’s blog Travelling Type, he inconsiderately moved overseas to live and work and the Aussie posts thinned out. SO … as revenge, I’m hoping this post makes him homesick as hell!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)

Andy says: ‘When I first sighted Uluru, it was apparent to me how vast the landscape was surrounding it. However, it wasn’t until I got up close to this whopping rock that it really impressed me, far more than I thought it would, as there are many folds, caves and ridges that lay within.’

6 Mandy – Travelling Australia With Kids

I’ve never travelled Australia with kids and probably never will. But I certainly agree with the concept behind Mandy’s great blog Travelling Australia With Kids – especially if it makes those kids grow up to appreciate the awesome natural attractions in OZ. Like Uluru!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)

Mandy says: ‘Something somewhere inside stirred and I felt like it was connecting with my soul! All sounds a bit spiritual, but seriously I was moved on a level I had not experienced before. I just wanted to look at it and experience it and absorb it. Hence 163 photos!

I could go on and on! We stayed at the nearby caravan park and I would wonder where my hubby was and he would be up at the lookout and vice versa. Every moment we could we would be just staring at it, transfixed almost, it actually became a bit odd as if it was drawing us in. But we just could not stop.’

7 Amanda – Adventures All Around

We’re both Aussie travellers, bloggers and red-heads, so that makes Amanda and I virtually twins, right? Apart from a few trifling details like her radio show, overseas travel and a few years in age! Amanda’s first time at Uluru was a very different experience as she writes on her blog Adventures All Around!

Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)
Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)

Amanda says: ‘I’d seen all the pictures and heard all the stories, but still nothing prepared me for what it feels like to be in the shadow of Uluru. To look up at that huge rock and see the caves and crevices and the colours.

Pictures don’t do it justice and my words won’t either. It’s something that needs to be experienced and that I hope to experience again.’

8 Michela – Rocky Travel

Michela’s travels in Australia, documented on her blog Rocky Travel, put many Aussies to shame. Her Top Tips for planning a road trip to Uluru are great advice – and she’s the only blogger to date that I’ve met face to face!

Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)
Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)

Michela says: ‘I vividly remember the feeling I had while approaching Uluru by car the first time. From the distance the Uluru growing bigger and bigger into its mighty shape. It was a strange feeling, a mix of awe, bewilderment, excitement, and a deep peacefulness. Right now by looking back at that moment I get shivers.’

9 Red Nomad OZ – RedzAustralia

Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia
Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia

On the 100 km trek along the road to Uluru from Curtin Springs, where we’d staged a two-person protest against the high cost of accommodation closer to the Rock, I was distracted by wildflowers lining the road – the result of a wetter than average year.

But then I looked up out the car window and there it was dominating the landscape and pulling us towards it like a magnet – maybe there’s something in the ley lines theory after all! I just HAD to get closer – but when I saw the WAY steep and exposed track to the top, I just knew I wouldn’t be climbing it.

So big it made the huge rocky domes of nearby Kata Tjuta look like marbles, Uluru’s ever-changing colours are endlessly fascinating. And the rocky pools, waterfall spots and wave-like formations made the base walk a wonderful experience.

Wanting a part of the rock made me almost see the point of those kitschy Uluru snow dome souvenirs too.  So I bought one – and it looked a bit like THIS!

Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia
Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia

With those 6.5 million results from the ‘Uluru’ Google search, I have no fear that this’ll become the definitive ‘go to’ post for travellers seeking information and inspiration about Australia’s iconic rock.

But travellers unedited first impressions never lie – so if you’ve been thinking about visiting or re-visiting Australia’s BIGGEST Rock Star, then DO IT NOW!

Have YOU been to Uluru? What was YOUR first impression of Australia’s TOP Rock Star?!

Want MORE?

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5 Amazing Angorichina Adventures! Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/07/5-angorichina-adventures-northern-flinders-ranges/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/07/5-angorichina-adventures-northern-flinders-ranges/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2015 10:02:18 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3840 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’m always on the lookout for unusual Aussie places. But staying in a Tuberculosis Sanatorium SO wasn’t on my radar. Even if it DID have a staggeringly scenic loo and a killer view of the Heysen Range in South Australia’s Northern Flinders Ranges. Angorichina Tourist Village – ‘Ango’ to the locals – about half-way along the 30 km (19 mile)[...]

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Late Afternoon on the Heysen Trail, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Late Afternoon on the Heysen Trail, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

I’m always on the lookout for unusual Aussie places. But staying in a Tuberculosis Sanatorium SO wasn’t on my radar.

Even if it DID have a staggeringly scenic loo and a killer view of the Heysen Range in South Australia’s Northern Flinders Ranges.

Is this the most Scenic Public Loo in OZ?
Is this the most Scenic Public Loo in OZ? The view from Angorichina Campground!

Angorichina Tourist Village – ‘Ango’ to the locals – about half-way along the 30 km (19 mile) stretch of dirt road between Parachilna and South Australia’s highest town Blinman is one of those rare places with a little bit of everything. Built after World War 1 as a retreat for servicemen with tuberculosis, it’s got one of Australia’s most picturesque campgrounds.

Angorichina Winter Flora, Northern Flinders Ranges
Angorichina Winter Flora, Northern Flinders Ranges

AND gave us the chance to practice our mud-running skills when the rain that started a couple of hours before we left turned the road from gravel to a miry dirt soup!

Here’s what WE got up to at Ango!

Nuccaleena Mine and Glass Gorge

Sliding down a treacherously steep scree-covered slope awash with potentially toxic mine site leavings from the century before last could have been responsible.

Or perhaps lurching sideways to (unsuccessfully) avoid the sharp rocks littering the embankment AND (sucessfully) avoiding the gaping adit* directly below them might have done the trick.

Either way, I’d ripped the seat out of my jeans and had a prickle in my bum.

The bad luck that plagued what is arguably Australia’s least successful mine – investments of over £57,000 with a return of only £13,000 – had clearly rubbed off on me!

Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

But Nuccaleena isn’t just a long-deserted copper mine site with a transferrable death wish – it’s at the end of a remote 4WD Public Access Route** with enough rugged road, creek crossings, tyre-shredding rocks, erosion AND killer scenery photo stops to make the last 14 km (8.7 miles) of the 36 km (22 miles) drive from Angorichina Village take nearly an hour of fun-filled 4WD fantasy!

For those like us with less clearance and less experience in the Boys Own Adventure art of Four Wheel Driving, that is.

Car Park and Scenery at Nuccaleena
Car Park and Scenery at Nuccaleena

It’s hard to imagine a full scale mining operation in this remote spot despite a number of building ruins, an 85 metre (279 feet) long tunnel (a trap for dead kangaroos) and stunning scenery all around. It’s all great fun to explore – if you’re alert to mine shafts, falling rocks, rotting wood and slippery slopes. And stray Spinifex!

But the odds of YOU ending up with a piece of spinifex embedded in YOUR derriére are much reduced if you choose NOT to use my tried and tested mountainside descent method …

Angorichina Rocks, Northern Flinders Ranges
Angorichina Rocks, Northern Flinders Ranges

Return the same way, or drive a scenic loop via Glass Gorge and Blinman to Angorichina, 47 km (29 miles) from Nuccaleena.

MORE about Nuccaleena Mine

Blinman Pools Hike

I’m not sure who owned the Reg Grundys*** sodden and forgotten on the rocks of Blinman Creek. And I didn’t want to think how they got there! But the smart money was on one of the hot young blokes in the school group who trotted past us en route to Blinman Pools. As they passed, one of the responsible adults confided that the boys were keen for a swim despite the nearly sub-zero winter temperature of the water.

Blinman Pools #1 via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Blinman Pools #1 via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

The even smarter money said it wasn’t ME they were trying to impress.

Hiker information about the 10 km (6.2 mile) return hike from Angorichina Village to the first pool describes the walk as ‘challenging’, with multiple creek crossings, rock-hopping, some steep climbs (ie up a waterfall) and a sometimes unmarked track.

Despite that, finding the first pool is a no-brainer – just keep walking up the dry creek bed! Interesting rock formations, gorges, cliffs, an island, pools, wildlife and a waterfall make this a varied and interesting hike.

Outback Scenery on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Outback Scenery on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

The second pool is only another kilometre upstream, but we gave it a miss left it for next time. I took 2 ¾ hours (with MANY photo and exploratory stops) to walk the 5 km upstream; and 2 hours to return – possibly because the track was easier to find while walking downstream!

The hot young things were long gone by the time I returned to Ango. No one gets to challenge ME for my title of Australia’s slowest hiker! But I’m still wondering if the hapless owner of the Reg Grundys underestimated the effect near-freezing water would have on his ability to impress the girls?!?!

MORE about Blinman Pools Hike

Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China

If you’re looking for the longest man-made structure in the world snaking across the landscape for hundreds of kilometres and reportedly visible from the moon, you’ll probably be disappointed with Mount Emily’s Great Wall of China. For the real thing, spend the bucks and head overseas.

Mt Emily, via Blinman, Northern Flinders Ranges
Mt Emily, via Blinman, Northern Flinders Ranges

But for the all-natural Aussie cheapskate version, take the road to Hawker for about 15 km (9.3 miles) south of Blinman (29 km from Ango), and check out Mt Emily!! It’s one of quite a few natural rock formations downunder with the words ‘Great’, ‘China’ and ‘Wall’ in their names – no one accuses us Aussies of overactive imaginations in the place-name stakes!

Great Wall of China Rock, via Blinman, Northern Flinders Ranges
Great Wall of China Rock, via Blinman, Northern Flinders Ranges

Mt Emily’s a great spot to have lunch especially with a traditional Cornish pasty (watch out for the dessert at one end) and/or Quandong Pie (trust me – get BOTH!) from the excellent Blinman General Store and Bakery.

Besides, the REAL Great Wall of China ISN’T the longest man-made structure on earth – that honour goes to the all-Australian Dingo Fence!

The Heysen Trail and Parachilna Gorge

The sun was getting very low in the sky as we headed out for a late afternoon stroll along the Heysen Trail – the iconic 1200 km hiking track through quite a LOT of South Australia. It starts (or ends) in Parachilna Gorge just a few kilometres west of Angorichina and ends (or starts!) in Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula.

Heysen Trail Scene, Parachilna Gorge, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Trail Scene, Parachilna Gorge, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

1200 km was a bit far for a casual stroll, so we took the shorter 6 km return option – or would have if a case of terminal laziness and LOTS of photos hadn’t meant we didn’t make it to Parachilna Gorge at Wild Dog Creek****. But walking a short way along the trail through massive dry creek beds, along spinifex-laden slopes and between a staggering array of mountains meant I could channel the late, great artist Sir Hans Heysen OBE for whom the trail is named.

With photos, anyway – I’ll never be an artist!

Sunset at Parachilna Gorge, Heysen Trail
Sunset at Parachilna Gorge, Heysen Trail

It’s no accident that the Heysen Trail starts here, in Parachilna Gorge. Some of Sir Hans’ best known works – The Land of the Oratunga (1932); Aroona (1939); Patawarta , Land of the Oratunga (1929); In the Flinders Far North (1951); and The Three Sisters of Aroona (1927) were painted right here in the Northern Flinders Ranges.

Where even a non-artist like me is moved to attempt to capture the magnificent scenery at sunset in these photos all taken within just a kilometre or so from the trailhead. Luckily, we had a watertight excuse to get back – after dark, the road is awash with kangaroos!

MORE about Sir Hans Heysen 

MORE about the Heysen Trail

Blinman Mine Tour and Walking Trail

NIL = Amount of time spent by me channelling Cornish Miners in Australia before doing the Blinman Mine Tour.

That’s why I didn’t know what chipping out tunnels and stopes with a hammer, chisel and explosives, lit only with candles and protected only by a leather helmet inside the equivalent of an underground 50-odd storey building for 12 hours a day, 6 days a week felt like.

Scenes from the Blinman Mine Tour, Northern Flinders Ranges
Scenes from the Blinman Mine Tour, Northern Flinders Ranges

Praise be that I still don’t know what it REALLY feels like, but after an hour on the excellent Blinman Mine Tour and the 1 km self-guided interpretive walk around sections of the mine site above the surface, I had a pretty good idea.

And it’s not something I’m planning to willingly try any time soon 😀

Unlike the Nuccaleena Mine, Blinman’s Mine Tour goes deep underground – which makes it MUCH easier to channel those Cornish miners, despite the hard helmets and lights the miners never had. And without the killer dust from the drilling, explosives and a few hundred miners jostling for position under the surface at any given time. And spending only 1/12 th of the time underground than the average miner spent on a shift.

Actually, perhaps it’s NOT that easy to channel a Cornish miner’s experience after all.

Minerals from the Blinman Mine
Minerals from the Blinman Mine

These days, with modern mining techniques and machinery, the section of the Blinman Mine that took 8 years to tunnel out would only take a couple of weeks. And while it’d leave a dirty great hole in the ground instead of the intricate network of shafts and stopes inside the Mine, the chances of modern day miners being affected by silicosis of the lungs, fatal injuries and unpleasant working conditions like their counterparts of yesteryear would be virtually NIL!

Contact The Blinman Mine Office for current prices (my July 2015 tour cost $27.50 for an adult ticket; there are concessions and cheaper prices for children and families.

MORE about Blinman and the Blinman Mine Tour 

Angorichina Fast Facts:

Blinman General Store Mascot
Blinman General Store Mascot

WHERE: 500 km north of Adelaide, South Australia.

HOW to get there: Travel north from Hawker to either Parachilna or Blinman. From Parachilna, turn right and travel for 15 km along a dirt road through Parachilna Gorge. From Blinman, turn left and travel for 14 km along a dirt road.

WHEN: Angorichina Tourist Village is closed in summer. The Heysen Trail is closed during the fire ban season from November to March.

WHAT’S THERE: Campground (powered & unpowered sites); Self-contained accommodation; General Store (supplies, alcohol, souvenirs); Workshop for minor repairs including tyres; Mountain bike hire.

Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

Want MORE?

* Adit = Mine opening (as any crossword aficionado will tell you!)

** Public Access Route = a through track or road on private property on which permission to enter the property is not required

*** Reg Grundys = undies = underwear (Aussie rhyming slang!

**** Wild Dog = Dingo. Wild Dog Creek = one of the most common creek names in Australia!

Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

 

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Larrikins, Landscapes and Loos! Lyndhurst South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/07/larrikins-landscapes-and-loos-lyndhurst-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/07/larrikins-landscapes-and-loos-lyndhurst-south-australia/#comments Tue, 14 Jul 2015 11:50:03 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3820 NEW from RedzAustralia!

If you’re passing through Lyndhurst when nature calls, you can’t miss this little Outback Beauty – it’s right on the highway next to the Lyndhurst town sign. That’s how I knew it couldn’t possibly have been there back in 2013 when I first went to Lyndhurst. So after crossing my legs for 25 km (15.5 miles) while driving back from[...]

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Lyndhurst Loo, Outback South Australia
Lyndhurst Loo, Outback South Australia
Inside the Loo, Lyndhurst South Australia
Inside the Loo, Lyndhurst South Australia

If you’re passing through Lyndhurst when nature calls, you can’t miss this little Outback Beauty – it’s right on the highway next to the Lyndhurst town sign. That’s how I knew it couldn’t possibly have been there back in 2013 when I first went to Lyndhurst.

So after crossing my legs for 25 km (15.5 miles) while driving back from my second trip to the awesome Farina bakery, I just HAD to stop.

And not just so I could check it and its classic outback setting out as a possible contender for my as yet unwritten second book of Aussie Loos with Views (read about the FIRST one HERE), either!

Aussie towns don’t come much smaller or more Outback than Lyndhurst. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see – so if you’re stopping for a loo break, stay a bit longer and check out the other Lyndhurst attractions!

Ochre Cliffs near Lyndhurst South Australia
Ochre Cliffs near Lyndhurst South Australia

Like what? Like THESE!

Lyndhurst Personalities

Lyndhurst doesn’t need a Red Nomad OZ to put it on the map – it’s already got a pretty high per capita proportion of Aussie larrikins.

Near the start of the Strzelecki Track, Lyndhurst
Near the start of the Strzelecki Track, Lyndhurst, South Australia

Like cattle duffer (read: bushranger) Harry Readford who drove 1000 head of stolen cattle from Longreach in Queensland through Lyndhurst to Marree in 1871, thus pioneering the modern day version of the Strzelecki Track. An amazing feat – not least to the jury at his trial who acquitted him, despite compelling evidence of his guilt. While he’s not from Lyndhurst, Harry certainly helped put it on the map, and his legend lives on in Captain Starlight – a character from classic Aussie novel ‘Robbery Under Arms’.

Modern day visitors won’t find Harry Readford, but they CAN find another legendary Aussie character at his talc sculpture gallery just out of town on the Innamincka Road.

Talc Alf's Talc Town, Lyndhurst
Talc Alf’s Talc Town, Lyndhurst

Or not! For some unknown reason, Talc Alf wasn’t at his gallery the day we dropped by so you won’t hear from me whether or not his theories about the origins of the English alphabet are valid!

But as I’m possibly the only traveller to pass through Lyndhurst South Australia without meeting TA, you’ll find records of other encounters online. Click HERE for Dr Karl Kruszelnicki’s account of his encounter with Talc Alf!

And if TA’s nowhere in sight, meet a few locals at the Lyndhurst Hotel/Motel and Caravan Park or recently re-opened Roadhouse!

Railway History

Outback sky above the old railway yards, Lyndhurst
Outback sky above the old railway yards, Lyndhurst

Although the section of the Great Northern Railway aka ‘The Ghan’ that once made Lyndhurst an important freight centre no longer operates (a re-location 200 km (124 miles) to the west will do that!) some memorabilia remains.

And if you’re lucky enough to be travelling with a railway obsessive enthusiast, you’ll get to see it all!

If it’s not your lucky day, look out for the old siding and stock yards between the dunny and the pub, and the old track embankment and station sign out by Talc Alf’s gallery.

Old Railway Station Sign with Lyndhurst in the background, South Australia
Old Railway Station Sign with Lyndhurst in the background, South Australia

Once the town was established as the main railhead for stock transport, it soon expanded. But who needs a store and post office when summer temperatures regularly exceed 40° C (104° F)?

The pub is unlikely to have been built if not for the railway, but am I the only one to find the presence of the pub and absence of the railway ironic?

The Lake

Lyndhurst Lake, Outback South Australia
Lyndhurst Lake, Outback South Australia

A lake of this small size wouldn’t generally rate a mention anywhere else. But in a town with those killer temperatures – 46.3° C (115 F) on 6 Jan 2013 – I mentioned earlier? And an annual rainfall of around 232 mm (~9 inches)?

Down in a hollow behind near the old railway stock yards, the dam was a pleasant, albeit unexpected surprise. And all the more scenic for its dry and dusty setting!

The Strzelecki Track

Sky above the Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia
Sky above the Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia

To travel the Strzelecki Track, I’d need new tyres, spare parts, extra water, survival gear – actually, make that a whole new rig!

Strzelecki Track surface, via Lyndhurst South Australia
Strzelecki Track surface, via Lyndhurst South Australia

So even though driving this iconic Outback road-trip, once an Aboriginal trade trail, was off the agenda I still got a thrill from driving a little way (read: 1 km!) up the track.

The last fuel and facilities stop before Innamincka, nearly 500 km (310 miles) away, Lyndhurst’s position at the start (or is that the end?) of the Strzelecki Track makes it a scheduled stop for travellers from either up or down the track.

But with a surface like THIS (see above), just watch those tyres!

The Ochre Pits

Early evening at the Ochre Pits via Lyndhurst
Early evening at the Ochre Pits via Lyndhurst

The classic outback landscape around Lyndhurst can be stunning. But it’s at its most spectacular just 5 km (3 miles) north on the main highway at the Ochre Pits – especially in the late afternoon light.

Used for trade, ceremony, ornament, medicine, art and burial (according to the sign on site), ochre remains an important part of Aboriginal life and culture. Ochre from these pits was traded along what is now known as the Strzelecki Track – a route following the waterholes – meaning the site is protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act.

Outback Colours at the Ochre Pits, Lyndhurst South Australia
Outback Colours at the Ochre Pits, Lyndhurst South Australia

I’d seen Ochre Pits before – but never one this big, or with so many colours.

And against that amazing blue South Australian winter sky?

Awesome! Take a break and experience Lyndhurst’s main attractions on your trip north to Marree and the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks; South to the Flinders Ranges and Adelaide; or north-east along the Strzelecki Track to Innamincka!

FAST FACTS:

Where: 606 km (376 miles) north of Adelaide; 33 km (20.5 miles) north of nearest town Copley; and 80 km south of Marree.

When: Temperatures are very hot in summer (Dec-Feb) so travel is recommended for the cooler months

How to get there: Self-Drive. Lyndhurst South Australia has the last facilities before Innamincka, 500 km (310 miles) away up the Strzelecki Track.

Facilities: Food, Fuel, Accomodation, Camping facilities, Toilets, some supplies available from the Roadhouse and/or Lyndhurst Hotel. It’s also only 25 km north to the Farina ruins with its seasonal bakery!

Outback evening sky, Lyndhurst
Outback evening sky, Lyndhurst

Want MORE?

Lyndhurst South Australia

The Strzelecki Track

Marree

The Farina Bakery

MORE Lyndhurst photos on Flickr

Lyndhurst UFO makes a landing
Lyndhurst UFO makes a landing

Oh! Nearly forgot. There’s one more thing to track down in Lyndhurst – its very own UFO!  Can YOU find it?

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7 Days from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/#comments Mon, 29 Jun 2015 10:15:27 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3785 NEW from RedzAustralia!

How to get from Darwin to Broome! Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave. But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning[...]

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Port of Broome, Western Australia
Port of Broome, Western Australia

How to get from Darwin to Broome!

Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave.

But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning the way you came is to take a road trip. Hire a car if you didn’t drive, and drive across the Top End through the Kimberley from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway!

But be warned! Even though the Darwin to Broome road trip CAN be done in a week, you must carefully pick and choose the sights you want to see or you’ll run out of time. That’s why my 7 day road trip itinerary has optional extras so you can add extra time and extra attractions!

So choose what you’d REALLY like to do from the itinerary and enjoy!

Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway
Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway

Day 1: Darwin to Victoria River Roadhouse

Distance: 510 km

Driving Time: 6-7 hours. Leave as early as possible – there’s a lot to see and do when you reach the Victoria River Roadhouse!

Route & Scenery: Head south from Darwin along the Stuart Highway, passing through tropical bushland and savannah and over low rocky ranges. At Katherine, leave the tropics behind and enter the RED Outback, heading south-west along the Victoria Highway. Near the Roadhouse, the road passes through Judburra/Gregory National Park and Stokes Range.

Points of Interest:

Victoria River Roadhouse
Victoria River Roadhouse, Northern Territory
  • This itinerary assumes you travelled to Darwin via Katherine and have already seen those attractions. For attractions between Darwin and Katherine, see Days 6 and 7 of my Adelaide to Darwin road trip itinerary.
  • Outback scenery and pastoral properties, low ranges and Buntine Highway (alternative route to Halls Creek) turn off
  • From the Victoria River Roadhouse, climb up to the Escarpment Lookout, hike the 1.7 km Joe Creek Loop Walk. Take a look at Australia’s WILDEST river (watch for crocodiles!), watch spectacular sunsets over the Victoria River Escarpment and have a meal at the roadhouse.

Options:

  • Take an extra day to explore attractions en route to Katherine. Stay overnight in Katherine on Day 1 and travel to Victoria River Roadhouse on Day 2.
  • Alternatively, stay at Katherine, then combine Days 2 and 3, seeing the Victoria River Roadhouse sights en route to Timber Creek

Read MORE: Things to do at Victoria River Roadhouse

Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at Sunset
Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at the Lookout at Sunset

Day 2: Victoria River Roadhouse to Timber Creek

Distance: 91 km (yes, you read that right!)

Driving Time: 1 hour (yes, you read that right!)

Route & Scenery: Head west from Victoria River Roadhouse, climb the Victoria River Escarpment and pass through the Stokes Range. Spectacular outback scenery complete with Boab trees all the way!

Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River
Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River

Points of Interest:

  • Today’s short trip means there’s time to see any attractions around Victoria River you didn’t have time for yesterday.
  • In Timber Creek, book a sunset Victoria River Cruise to see more of Timber Creek, discover Australia’s wildest river, see more crocodiles than you’ve probably ever seen before. AND enjoy drinks and snacks while watching the sunset.

Options:

  • Save Timber Creek for another visit and continue to Keep River National Park campground (150 km), Lake Argyle (190 km) or Kununurra (225 km)
  • Stay an extra night and explore Timber Creek. There’s the historic museum, Escarpment Lookout, crocodile feeding in the creek behind the caravan parks and more of Gregory National Park.

Read MORE: Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s Wildest River

SEE MORE:  Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia
Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia

Day 3: Timber Creek to Kununurra

Distance: 225 km

Driving Time: 3 hours (including extra for a WA/NT Border vehicle check – don’t carry fruit, vegetables, plants or flowers). Gain bonus extra time at the border by turning clocks back to WA time!

Route & Scenery: Drive west along the Victoria Highway passing through spectacular ranges and land formations. After the border checkpoint, approx 150 km from Timber Creek, continue to Kununurra.

Points of Interest:

Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
  • Keep River National Park, sometimes referred to as the Mini Bungle-Bungles, is just 3 km from the WA border.
  • Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, is 34 km off the highway just across the border.

Options:

  • Stay overnight at the Keep River National Park campground for amazing scenery and the 7 km Jarnem Loop Trail
  • Stay an extra night at Lake Argyle for a sunset or morning cruise and a dip in the infinity pool
  • Extend your stay in Kununurra and use it as a base to explore the region thoroughly (including Lake Argyle and Keep River National Park)
  • Stay an extra night at Wyndham to see the amazing Five Rivers Lookout at sunset, and a number of other attractions

Read MORE:

SEE MORE:  Kununurra Photos on Flickr

Caroline Pool via Halls Creek
Caroline Pool via Halls Creek

Day 4: Kununurra to Halls Creek

Distance: 360 km

Driving Time: 4 ½ – 5 hours

Route & Scenery: 46 km west of Kununurra, turn east onto the Great Northern Highway. Spectacular scenery with multi-coloured rock formations through the Carr-Boyd and O’Connell Ranges. Outback scenery with red rock and spinifex closer to Halls Creek.

Points of Interest:

China Wall, via Halls Creek
China Wall, via Halls Creek
  • Doon Doon Roadhouse
  • Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse, Indigenous Arts Centre and Bungle-Bungle Scenic Flights
  • Punululu National Park (Bungle-Bungles)
  • At Halls Creek, visit the China Wall quartz formation, Caroline Pool and Old Halls Creek.

Options:

  • Stay an extra night at Warmun or one of the Bungle-Bungles campgrounds and explore Purnululu National Park
  • Stay an extra night at Halls Creek and visit Wolfe Creek Crater National Park (260 km round trip) on the Tanami Road
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley Region, Western Australia

Day 5: Halls Creek to Fitzroy Crossing

Distance: 290 km

Driving Time: 3 ½ – 4 hours

Route & Scenery: Travel south-west from Halls Creek passing through oddly shaped rocky mountains, cliffs and canyons then lightly wooded pastoral country.

Points of Interest:

Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
  • When in flood, the Fitzroy River has the largest water volume of any river in Australia.  In the world only the Amazon is larger!  Take a look – even if it’s NOT in flood!
  • Take a cruise through Geikie Gorge, a Devonian reef system about 20 km from Fitzroy Crossing.

Options:

  • Stay an extra day and explore Geikie Gorge via several walks, or take a tour to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge.

Read MORE: The Incredible ‘Icebergs’ of Geikie Gorge

Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia

Day 6: Fitzroy Crossing to Derby

Distance: 260 km

Driving Time: 3 – 3 ½ hours

Route & Scenery: Head west along the Great Northern Highway and head north at the junction with the Broome-Derby road. It’s then only 40 km to Derby on King Sound.

Points of Interest:

Low Tide at Derby Jetty
Low Tide at Derby Jetty
  • Watch the ebb and flow of the highest tides in Australia from the Derby Jetty. It’s 12 metres above the low tide line.
  • Other Derby attractions include the Jandamarra Heritage Trail, old prison, Boab Prison Tree, Frosty’s Pool, the Long Trough and the Joonjoo Botanic Walk.

Options:

Stay an extra night in Derby and experience the Gibb River Road on the Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour.  Alternatively, visit the Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Waterfall

Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome
Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome

Read MORE: The Highest Tide in OZ!

Day 7: Derby to Broome

Distance: 220 km

Driving Time: 2 ½ -3 hours

Route & Scenery: Follow the Great Northern Highway south-west to Broome.

Points of Interest:

Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
  • Willare Bridge Roadhouse
  • Roebuck Plains Roadhouse

Read MORE about Broome’s attractions:

SEE MORE:  Broome Photos on Flickr

Broome’s many attractions probably mean you’ll want to stay for a LOT longer than just one night! And why not? You deserve a break after an epic road trip like this!

And anyway, you may as well kick back and enjoy yourself while you work out where to go next!

Want even MORE?

PS  For the record, it took me 28 nights to do the Darwin to Broome Road Trip.  I spent 15 more nights exploring Broome and surrounds!

And I STILL didn’t see everything!

So yes, it CAN be done in 7 days – but if you’ve got the time, you’ll see a LOT more!

Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory
Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory

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10 TOP Things to Do in Port Augusta https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/10-top-things-to-do-in-port-augusta/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/10-top-things-to-do-in-port-augusta/#comments Fri, 19 Jun 2015 12:44:14 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3758 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Sooner or later, most travellers in Australia will reach the great cross-roads at the head of Spencer Gulf that is Port Augusta. North is the Stuart Highway to the Northern Territory. West is the Eyre Highway across the Nullarbor to West OZ. East is the Barrier Highway to Broken Hill and New South Wales. And South is to Adelaide and[...]

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Sunset over the Tent Hills, Port Augusta
Sunset from Matthew Flinders Lookout over the Tent Hills, Port Augusta, South Australia

Sooner or later, most travellers in Australia will reach the great cross-roads at the head of Spencer Gulf that is Port Augusta.

North is the Stuart Highway to the Northern Territory. West is the Eyre Highway across the Nullarbor to West OZ. East is the Barrier Highway to Broken Hill and New South Wales. And South is to Adelaide and beyond.

Port Augusta Power Station from Blanche Harbour Road, Port Augusta
Port Augusta Power Station from Blanche Harbour Road, Port Augusta

Many travellers stop overnight either going to or coming from their main destination.

But discerning visitors who stay an extra day (or two or three) will be rewarded by discovering some of the FAAAAABULOUS things to do in Port Augusta.

Like what? Like THESE! Here’s TEN of my favorites!

1 Time Tunnel Travel at Wadlata

Wadlata and the Rainbow Serpent, Port Augusta
Wadlata and the Rainbow Serpent, Port Augusta

Wadlata Outback Centre isn’t just about tourist information. There’s the excellent gift shop – try a Journey Jottings map or a piece of Indigenous artwork! There’s a cool cafe – try the quandong cheesecake or the quandong slice!

And then there’s the time tunnel!

Walk into the jaws of the giant ripper lizard and be transported into the prehistoric world of life before man on Gondwanaland. This ancient history lesson is never dull as it moves through aeons (via interactive displays, dreamtime stories and intriguing facts) from the beginning of time to the present day in Port Augusta NOW!

Rainbow Serpent, Wadlata, Port Augusta
Rainbow Serpent, Wadlata, Port Augusta

While THIS time travel won’t take millions of years, don’t underestimate the time you’ll need – it’s easy to spend several hours there, especially with breaks for lunch and/or morning and/or afternoon tea. Just watching ‘Back of Beyond’, a movie about Outback legend mailman Tom Kruse takes an hour!

The good news is if you run out of time on this visit, just pick up a pass-out from the Wadlata staff and come back to finish it off other time!

2 The Full 360º at the Water Tower Lookout

Water Tower Lookout, Port Augusta
Water Tower Lookout, Port Augusta

It’s a long way to the top if you want a shocking fall – and the see-through metal mesh staircase doesn’t help either.

Luckily for us acrophobics, the Water Tower Lookout’s horribly exposed four flights of stairs ends in a fully enclosed viewing platform complete with wire mesh criss-crossing the view in four directions.

Except for a thoughtfully placed hole in the middle just right for a camera lens.

A camera lens like MINE, that is. If size DOES matter; and you’ve brought a giant lens along for a big day out, you might be in trouble 😀

But cameras aren’t required to enjoy the superb view of boats, bridges and birds on Spencer Gulf; the iconic silhouette of the power station; and the general landscape filled with parklands and houses that make up this town, named for Augusta Sophia Marryat, wife of South Australia’s first civilian Governor.

Water Tower Lookout View of Spencer Gulf Bridge
Water Tower Lookout View of Spencer Gulf Bridge, Port Augusta

Is late afternoon leading up to sunset the best time to check it out? I haven’t been there at any other time, so I don’t know – but it sure worked for me!

3 Matthew Flinders Lookout and RED Cliff Walk

Even if you’re more immune to the promise of RED Cliffs, the Matthew Flinders Lookout – a short walk from the car park – is worth a visit for its staggering vista of Spencer Gulf against the magnificent backdrop of the Flinders Ranges.

Spencer Gulf from Matthew Flinders Lookout, Port Augusta
Spencer Gulf from Matthew Flinders Lookout, Port Augusta

A landscape so fine that even standing atop a high and crumbling cliff face to view it becomes a pleasure. Well … almost 😀

But throw in a killer sunset and even a coward like me can forget the perils of standing on the edge!

Spencer Gulf, Railway Bridge, Flinders Ranges from Red Cliff Walk
Spencer Gulf, Railway Bridge, Flinders Ranges from Red Cliff Walk, Port Augusta

For more than double the fun, take the 4.5 km RED Cliff Circuit Walk from the Arid Lands Botanic Gardens to the Matthew Flinders lookout via a bird hide, a bluebush plain and the railway bridge with fine views from the edge of Spencer Gulf over the RED Cliffs, claypans and mangroves! Follow the loop trail back through the gardens.

4 Arid Lands Botanic Gardens

If you’ve got lemons, make lemonade.

Arid Lands Botanic Gardens Lookout, Port Augusta
Arid Lands Botanic Gardens Lookout, Port Augusta

And if you’ve got a climate with extreme temperatures, lengthy periods of drought and low rainfall, showcase the plants that LOVE arid conditions in your garden!

That’s exactly what the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden, established in 1993 as an initiative of the Port Augusta Council, has achieved with its arid zone plant habitats – like dunes, desert and saltbush plains – spread over 250 hectares.

But demonstrating water-wise gardening techniques isn’t the only attraction!

When you’re tired of the walks, bird hides (and over 100 bird species recorded), a nationally significant Eremophila garden, art works, lookouts and plant nursery outside, there’s the Bluebush Café and Gift Shop inside.

Eremophila from Port Augusta Region
Eremophila from Port Augusta Region, South Australia

Entry to the gardens is free, and they’re open all year round (other than Christmas and New Years Day, and Good Friday).

5 Pichi Richi Railway

Take a trip on a small section of the old Great Northern Railway from Adelaide to Alice Springs, once dubbed the Afghan Express and now affectionately known as the Ghan, through the rocky Pichi Richi pass in fully restored heritage carriages.

The Ghan hasn’t passed this way since 1956, but from April to November, experience the magic of steam and take a return trip on the restored Afghan Express from Port Augusta to nearby Quorn (41 km to the north-east); or the Pichi Richi Explorer from Quorn through the pass to Woolshed Flat.

Found one! Pichi Richi Railway, Quorn
Found one! Pichi Richi Railway, heading into Quorn, South Australia

With railway memorabilia at both Port Augusta and Quorn, the railway is a great way to experience the magic of train travel.

6 Trainspotting

Railway enthusiasts need not fear having to adopt alternative pursuits like sightseeing, birding and wildflower watching when the Pichi Richi Railway isn’t operating.

SO … if your preferred lullaby is the soothing sounds of shunting, then find somewhere to stay within sight and sound of the railway because all passenger and freight trains heading north, south, east and west pass through Port Augusta.

Train between Spencer Gulf and the Flinders Ranges, Port Augusta
Is that a TRAIN I see between Spencer Gulf and the Flinders Ranges, Port Augusta?

Even Railway ambivalents may find a multi-coloured goods train tracking north along the eastern side of the gulf with the Flinders Ranges a resplendent backdrop an awesome sight.

I know I did!

7 Quorn and the Quandong Café

Even without the enticement of a Pichi Richi train ride, the short drive to Quorn is well worth it. And top of MY list of Quorn must-do’s is a visit (or two) to the Quandong Café.

Yes, it's a GATE! Quorn
Yes, it’s a GATE! Near the Railway yards, Quorn

Actually, it’s not the cafe. It’s the scones. AWESOME scones. They even beat my own faithfully copied secret recipe pumpkin scones AND give the discerning epicure the opportunity to experience the delights of the Quandong, Australia’s own arid land fruit at its best when turned into a marvellously piquant jam, the perfect accompaniment to THOSE SCONES!

When you’re done with that, explore the town’s Galleries, historic buildings, cafés, pubs, an Agricultural Museum and the Powell Gardens botanic garden.

Quorn Railway Station, South Australia
Quorn Railway Station, South Australia

If the Quorn scenery looks familiar, it MAY be because scenes from a number of films were shot in the area. Most recently, the region AND the Pichi Richi steam train featured in The Water Diviner with Russell Crowe! Other notable films include Wolf Creek 1 and 2 (2005 and 2013), Tracks (2013), The Shiralee (1986) and Gallipoli (also featuring the Pichi Richi in 1981).

I’m not sure if the Quandong Café featured in any of the films – but it should have!

8 The Flinders Ranges

If you want to explore the folds and peaks of the ragged range that makes such an awesome town backdrop, Port Augusta is an easy day trip from some of the Flinders Ranges hot spots.

Flinders Ranges across Spencer Gulf, Port Augusta
Flinders Ranges across Spencer Gulf, Port Augusta, South Australia

Near Quorn there’s the Dutchmans Stern, Devils Peak and Warren Gorge. A little further north there’s Kanyaka Historic Site, Death Rock and the Jeff Morgan Gallery at Hawker, 107 km north-east. 67 km south is Melrose, gateway to the Mount Remarkable National Park.

Exploring the Flinders Ranges will take a LOT longer than a weekend – but a Port Augusta day trip makes a good teaser!

9 Wildflower Wonderland

Arid Land Plants from Port Augusta Region
Arid Land Plants from Port Augusta Region, South Australia

Just in case you didn’t quite catch the beauty of the arid land vegetation, here’s a little taste of what you’re missing!

10 Blanche Harbour

Past the Port Augusta city limits heading south along the western side of Spencer Gulf, the sparsely vegetated dry hills of the outback to the right contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the sea on the left, and the intriguing skyline of the Flinders Ranges beyond.

Blanche Harbour, Port Augusta
Blanche Harbour, Port Augusta, South Australia

With a landscape like this, it’s no wonder the gulf is lined with holiday shacks.

23 km later, the gulf widens as the outback sweeps down to the sea at Blanche Harbour in a magnificent sweep of coastline. Atop a low hill above the car park, there’s a marvellous vantage point inside a picnic shelter that tells the story of this place while showing off its natural attractions.

Spencer Gulf and Flinders Ranges from Blanche Harbour Picnic Area
Spencer Gulf and Flinders Ranges from Blanche Harbour Picnic Area

But it didn’t always look this good. The ‘before’ photos show what the area looked like 15 years ago, when a group of concerned ‘shackies’ banded together to reverse the ravages of rubbish dumping and off-road vehicle driving.

Arid Lands Botanic Gardens Track, Port Augusta
Arid Lands Botanic Gardens Track, Port Augusta

Now, with revegetation well under way and stunning scenery, Blanche Harbour is a place of beauty and peace.

 

So take a look at my TOP TEN – and start planning YOUR stop-over – or weekend getaway – now! And if you can fit all TEN of my favourite things to do in Port Augusta into just ONE weekend, you’re doing well!

Want MORE?

PS  Did I mention the Scenic Public Loos??  Here’s a triple-toilet-teaser – see if you can find them all when YOU go to Port Augusta!

Loo Roundup

 

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Red’s TOP 10 Accessible Outback Experiences https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/#comments Sun, 01 Mar 2015 14:19:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3191 NEW from RedzAustralia!

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day. You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules: Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think! Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy,[...]

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View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland
View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day.

You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules:

  • Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think!
  • Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy, range, clearance, tyres, weight rating, space – in relation to where you want to go.
  • Outsource the driving (eg take a tour, hitch a ride) when conditions don’t suit.
  • Check all road, weather and travelling conditions in advance – rain, road works, flooding etc can all cause road closures.
  • Take the advice you receive – be prepared to change your plans if conditions are not suitable for your vehicle.  Having a Plan B always helps!
  • Get road assistance (eg NRMA, RAA, RACQ etc), but be aware of any exclusions – sometimes road assistance to remote areas isn’t available.
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA

Pilchard and I have travelled to all the RedzAustralia TOP 10 Accessible Outback HOT Spots below in either a Subaru** Touring Wagon, a Subaru Forester or a Subaru Outback. Sometimes we’ve even had a NON-off-road camper trailer in tow. We’re not foolhardy risk-takers – we just follow those rules.

But if we can have these 10 Accessible Outback Experiences without extreme 4 wheel driving, then so can you!

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

1 Whale Watching

Head of Bight, South Australia

Stand atop the Bunda Cliffs – longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the world – and watch the whales cavorting below! Yes, you’re in the Outback – and this section of the all-bitumen Eyre Highway separating Ceduna from Norseman, ~1200 km west, is Outback all the way.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain en route from Sydney and Perth, around ~ 4000 km, is one of Australia’s great road trips. Full of life changing experiences – think driving Australia’s longest straight stretch of road; golfing on the world’s longest golf course; and unravelling the mystery of the Nullarbor Nymph (take links below for details) – it’s a TOP Outback experience in itself, even without the whales.

Where: Head of Bight Whale Watching centre is just off the Eyre Highway, ~220 km east of Eucla on the WA/SA border

When: Whale season is from June to October

Stay: Nullarbor Roadhouse, 26 km from Head of Bight Whale Watching area

MORE about Head of Bight and the Nullarbor Plain

White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW
White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW

2 Opal Fossicking

White Cliffs, New South Wales

The tiny opal mining town of White Cliffs is the only place in the world where unusual pineapple opals occur naturally. Despite spending a couple of afternoons on the mullock heaps, the only ‘colour’ (opal-speak for actual opal) we found was pretty, but worthless. Maybe you’ll have better luck? We certainly did when we gave the diggings away and ‘found’ some opal in the White Cliffs township, along with the world’s only above-ground mineshaft tour, a self-guided historic walk and unusual architecture shaped by harsh weather conditions and limited building materials.

If you’re car’s up to it, take the rugged, unsealed Wanaaring road for 33 km to the Paroo-Darling National Park and Peery Lake, at over 30 km long the largest overflow lake along the river.

Where: White Cliffs is 96 km north-west of Wilcannia, which is 195 km east of Broken Hill on fully sealed roads

MORE about White Cliffs

Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run
Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run

3 Mail Run

Quilpie, Queensland

It’d be difficult to drive yourself north over ~400 km of mostly dirt station tracks through magnificent outback scenery – it passes through 10 pastoral properties. But hitch a ride with the local postie to deliver the mail, catch up with some of the locals and see what’s outside the Quilpie city limits!

When you’re done with the Mail Run, climb nearby Baldy Top lookout (top photo) for a great view over this remote Boulder Opal mining town on the edge of nowhere. Explore west by driving 100 km to Eromanga, reportedly the furthest town from the ocean in Australia; fossick for opal at the caravan park’s ‘Deuces Wild’ lease; or drive 75 km south to Toompine for an Outback Pub experience.

Where: Quilpie is 211 km west of Charleville on the Cooper Developmental Road; and ~950 km west of Brisbane on the Warrego Highway, all sealed

MORE about Quilpie and Eromanga

Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley
Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley

4 The Gibb River Road

via Derby, Kimberley, Western Australia

There’s NO WAY that driving the 660 km of rugged, stony, tyre-shredding Gibb River Road (also known as the ‘Boys Own Adventure’ route) from Kununurra to Derby qualifies as an ‘Accessible Outback’ experience.

But the ‘Gibb River Road LITE’ version does!

Outsource the driving and hit the notorious road on a 4WD bus (it’s a school bus in its spare time) from North-west Kimberley town Derby for a 360 km round trip on the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, then back again.

So sit back, enjoy morning tea and lunch en route to the main attractions, and save your car and/or rig for the bitumen.

Where: Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour leaves from Derby, 220 km north-east of Broome, Western Australia

Road Conditions: Appalling! That’s why you’re letting someone else do the driving, remember??!!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and the Kimberley

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

5 Hiking

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory

The amazingly varied and superb Outback scenery makes the 7 km Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk one of the best short-ish hikes in Australia (IMHO). But it helps that it’s superbly placed amidst the ancient rocky landscape of the West MacDonnell Ranges, traversed by the Finke River, oldest waterway in the world.

Ormiston Gorge is the smart alternative if you want to dodge the crowds at Uluru AND experience Outback magic with classic scenery, wildlife and a variety of walks. It’s SO good, a two-night stay turned into six nights!

Where: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges, 128 km west of Alice Springs on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Ormiston Gorge

Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland
Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland

6 Camel Races

Bedourie, Queensland

Don’t expect to see horses at the Bedourie races – it’s camels all the way in the lead up to nearby Boulia’s camel race weekend. Join Bedourie locals for a TOP day out with racing, wood-chopping, good Aussie tucker, entertainment and an evening dance – to be held in 2016 on 9 July.

Home of the iconic Bedourie Oven, the town sits almost half-way between two other Western Queensland racing icons – Boulia, and the centre of Australia’s racing universe – Birdsville, with it’s world famous race meet held in September. Once the races are over, explore the area or just relax in the town’s Hot Artesian Pools!

Or stick around for the Boulia Camel Races – longest track in Australia; then move on to Winton for more races the following weekend.

Where: Bedourie is a 216 km drive – mostly sealed with about 14 km of dirt – south of Boulia; or 164 km north of Birdsville – mostly dirt.

When: Bedourie Camel Races 2018 Dates TBA, but usually the weekend before the Boulia Camel Races; Boulia Camel Race Weekend on Friday 20th – Sunday 22nd July 2017 AND Winton Camel Races Dates TBA, but usually the weekend after the Boulia Camel Races.

MORE about Bedourie Camel Races

Super Pit, Kalgoorlie
Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

7 Unnatural Attractions

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Standing on the edge of a massive man-made crater stretching for nearly 4 km and waiting for a blast that’ll knock the sides out even further is like nothing else you’ll see in the Outback. A bold scheme (somewhat like its founder Alan Bond) the Super Pit combines leases and resources to more efficiently mine the Golden Mile – one of the richest seams of gold in the world.

A town able to survive because of an ambitious engineering feat piping water from the outskirts of Perth, nearly 600 km to the west, Kalgoorlie is a gold-mining town 24-7.

There’s nothing quite like the Outback’s natural attractions – but there’s something strangely compelling about this very unnatural one!

Where: 600 km east of Perth

MORE about Kalgoorlie-Boulder and the Super Pit

Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland
Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland (pic by Pilchard)

8 RED!

Windorah, Queensland

A number of localities vie for the honour of being the REDdest place in Australia. But for the reddest accessible outback HOT spot, there’s no contest.

Even with my old FILM camera, the red sand dunes west of Queensland Outback town Windorah are so startlingly vivid they almost hurt the eyes. Windorah has the added inducement of being closest town to Australian icon Cooper’s Creek – only place in the world where two rivers meet to form a creek. Then a little further west there’s the weirdly signposted ‘Point of Interest’, and a little further beyond that, The Little Loo at the end of the Universe – my most popular Scenic Public Toilet ever!

That’s all very nice. But it’s those RED sand dunes that get me every time!

Where: Windorah is 239 km north-west of Quilpie (see #3 above), along the Diamantina Developmental Road

MORE about Windorah and Cooper’s Creek

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley
Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley

9 Wildlife Watching

Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

As the crocodiles zig-zagged through the otherwise tranquil waters of Marlgu Billabong, centrepiece of the Parry Lagoons Nature reserve, the 65 species of birds we saw over two visits seemed unperturbed. Maybe the crocs were after bigger prey? That’s why we stayed firmly behind the barriers of the viewing platform over this magnificent inland billabong and breeding ground that attracts thousands of birds.

And bird-watchers!!

Only a few kilometres from East Kimberley Town Wyndham, the lagoon is a dramatically beautiful dry-season oasis against the stark colours and boab-tree-studded landscape that surrounds it.

Where: Marlgu Billabong is ~15 km on a dirt road from Wyndham.  Wyndham is ~100 km north-west of Kununurra on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard's Lookout, South Australia
Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard’s Lookout, South Australia

10 Ridge Top Tour

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, South Australia

Experience extreme Outback Adventure on a bone-shaking 4 hour return trip through the (almost) trackless adventureland of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary to Sillers Lookout. Even though you won’t be driving yourself on this tour, it’s full of heart-stopping action on steep tracks with vertigo-inducing drop-offs and staggering scenery from several vantage points that show off northern South Australia to supreme advantage.

Australia’s premier eco-tourism destination (IMHO), Arkaroola is set amidst a fantastic landscape with an extraordinary array of rocks and minerals, superb natural attractions, amazing self-drive exploratory tours (mostly 4WD only), rugged hikes and an observatory for star-gazing.

The Ridge-top tour is conducted by Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and for my money, it’s the ultimate Aussie Outback experience of all time. And I’m happy for any other tour operators to prove me wrong!

Where: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is 125 km north-east from Copley on an all-weather dirt road. Copley is ~600 km north of Adelaide on a fully sealed road – and if the weather prevents you from getting out to Arkaroola, Copley makes a fine alternative destination

MORE about Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and Copley

Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

WARNING:

This post is an introduction to guide you to some of the more accessible Outback Experiences.

ANY trip to the Outback, no matter how easy it appears, MUST be carefully planned.  Please visit websites like Travel Outback Australia, Outback Australia Travel Guide or Outback Travel Australia for advice and to ensure you are well-prepared, and carry extra water and supplies at all times.

Why?  Because you’ll be faced with:

  • Long distances
  • Extreme temperatures
  • Minimal facilities
  • Limited services, including mobile phone access
  • Harsh conditions

 

* IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

** Please note: These models of Subaru generally have slightly higher clearance than a standard car, and can be switched to 4WD mode if required.

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

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