Ormiston Gorge Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/ormiston-gorge/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Ormiston Gorge Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/ormiston-gorge/ 32 32 My Top 7 Things to Do – Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/#comments Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=71 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]

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Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how!

A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.

135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.

Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!

1 Sunrise at Ghost Gum Lookout:

Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge

‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.

Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?

No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!

I’d just experienced it in a different spot.

Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge.  They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.

Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.

Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …

Dingo at Sunrise
Dingo at Sunrise

As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area.  Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.

Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.

Hunting for fish.

No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!

We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.

But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.

Na na nana nah!

2 Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk

Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia

This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights.  Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail.  That’s just part of the fun.

But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!

If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!

3 Larapinta LITE:

The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.

But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road.  It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.

Just can't have too much spinifex ... Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge
Just can’t have too much spinifex … Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge

We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track.  Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.

BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!

Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!

4 Glen Helen Gorge:

Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia

The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!

Glen Helen Resort Piano
Glen Helen Resort Piano

But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.

Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.

And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!

5 Mt Sonder Lookout:

Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia
Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia

Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!

Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout
Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout

And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!

There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it.  But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.

It’s a fine view in its own right.  And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.

6 Ormiston Gorge Campground:

Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia

The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.

So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.

Well, almost!

I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??

Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.

‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.

But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.

The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.

Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?

With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.

Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.

Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?

And if so, what does that make US?

7 Ghost Gum Loop at Sunset:

Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall.  The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.

Ghost Gum Lookout - and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Lookout – and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.

But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset

Read More about Central Australia:

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Red’s TOP 10 Accessible Outback Experiences https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/#comments Sun, 01 Mar 2015 14:19:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3191 NEW from RedzAustralia!

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day. You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules: Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think! Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy,[...]

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View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland
View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day.

You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules:

  • Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think!
  • Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy, range, clearance, tyres, weight rating, space – in relation to where you want to go.
  • Outsource the driving (eg take a tour, hitch a ride) when conditions don’t suit.
  • Check all road, weather and travelling conditions in advance – rain, road works, flooding etc can all cause road closures.
  • Take the advice you receive – be prepared to change your plans if conditions are not suitable for your vehicle.  Having a Plan B always helps!
  • Get road assistance (eg NRMA, RAA, RACQ etc), but be aware of any exclusions – sometimes road assistance to remote areas isn’t available.
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA

Pilchard and I have travelled to all the RedzAustralia TOP 10 Accessible Outback HOT Spots below in either a Subaru** Touring Wagon, a Subaru Forester or a Subaru Outback. Sometimes we’ve even had a NON-off-road camper trailer in tow. We’re not foolhardy risk-takers – we just follow those rules.

But if we can have these 10 Accessible Outback Experiences without extreme 4 wheel driving, then so can you!

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

1 Whale Watching

Head of Bight, South Australia

Stand atop the Bunda Cliffs – longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the world – and watch the whales cavorting below! Yes, you’re in the Outback – and this section of the all-bitumen Eyre Highway separating Ceduna from Norseman, ~1200 km west, is Outback all the way.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain en route from Sydney and Perth, around ~ 4000 km, is one of Australia’s great road trips. Full of life changing experiences – think driving Australia’s longest straight stretch of road; golfing on the world’s longest golf course; and unravelling the mystery of the Nullarbor Nymph (take links below for details) – it’s a TOP Outback experience in itself, even without the whales.

Where: Head of Bight Whale Watching centre is just off the Eyre Highway, ~220 km east of Eucla on the WA/SA border

When: Whale season is from June to October

Stay: Nullarbor Roadhouse, 26 km from Head of Bight Whale Watching area

MORE about Head of Bight and the Nullarbor Plain

White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW
White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW

2 Opal Fossicking

White Cliffs, New South Wales

The tiny opal mining town of White Cliffs is the only place in the world where unusual pineapple opals occur naturally. Despite spending a couple of afternoons on the mullock heaps, the only ‘colour’ (opal-speak for actual opal) we found was pretty, but worthless. Maybe you’ll have better luck? We certainly did when we gave the diggings away and ‘found’ some opal in the White Cliffs township, along with the world’s only above-ground mineshaft tour, a self-guided historic walk and unusual architecture shaped by harsh weather conditions and limited building materials.

If you’re car’s up to it, take the rugged, unsealed Wanaaring road for 33 km to the Paroo-Darling National Park and Peery Lake, at over 30 km long the largest overflow lake along the river.

Where: White Cliffs is 96 km north-west of Wilcannia, which is 195 km east of Broken Hill on fully sealed roads

MORE about White Cliffs

Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run
Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run

3 Mail Run

Quilpie, Queensland

It’d be difficult to drive yourself north over ~400 km of mostly dirt station tracks through magnificent outback scenery – it passes through 10 pastoral properties. But hitch a ride with the local postie to deliver the mail, catch up with some of the locals and see what’s outside the Quilpie city limits!

When you’re done with the Mail Run, climb nearby Baldy Top lookout (top photo) for a great view over this remote Boulder Opal mining town on the edge of nowhere. Explore west by driving 100 km to Eromanga, reportedly the furthest town from the ocean in Australia; fossick for opal at the caravan park’s ‘Deuces Wild’ lease; or drive 75 km south to Toompine for an Outback Pub experience.

Where: Quilpie is 211 km west of Charleville on the Cooper Developmental Road; and ~950 km west of Brisbane on the Warrego Highway, all sealed

MORE about Quilpie and Eromanga

Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley
Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley

4 The Gibb River Road

via Derby, Kimberley, Western Australia

There’s NO WAY that driving the 660 km of rugged, stony, tyre-shredding Gibb River Road (also known as the ‘Boys Own Adventure’ route) from Kununurra to Derby qualifies as an ‘Accessible Outback’ experience.

But the ‘Gibb River Road LITE’ version does!

Outsource the driving and hit the notorious road on a 4WD bus (it’s a school bus in its spare time) from North-west Kimberley town Derby for a 360 km round trip on the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, then back again.

So sit back, enjoy morning tea and lunch en route to the main attractions, and save your car and/or rig for the bitumen.

Where: Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour leaves from Derby, 220 km north-east of Broome, Western Australia

Road Conditions: Appalling! That’s why you’re letting someone else do the driving, remember??!!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and the Kimberley

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

5 Hiking

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory

The amazingly varied and superb Outback scenery makes the 7 km Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk one of the best short-ish hikes in Australia (IMHO). But it helps that it’s superbly placed amidst the ancient rocky landscape of the West MacDonnell Ranges, traversed by the Finke River, oldest waterway in the world.

Ormiston Gorge is the smart alternative if you want to dodge the crowds at Uluru AND experience Outback magic with classic scenery, wildlife and a variety of walks. It’s SO good, a two-night stay turned into six nights!

Where: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges, 128 km west of Alice Springs on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Ormiston Gorge

Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland
Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland

6 Camel Races

Bedourie, Queensland

Don’t expect to see horses at the Bedourie races – it’s camels all the way in the lead up to nearby Boulia’s camel race weekend. Join Bedourie locals for a TOP day out with racing, wood-chopping, good Aussie tucker, entertainment and an evening dance – to be held in 2016 on 9 July.

Home of the iconic Bedourie Oven, the town sits almost half-way between two other Western Queensland racing icons – Boulia, and the centre of Australia’s racing universe – Birdsville, with it’s world famous race meet held in September. Once the races are over, explore the area or just relax in the town’s Hot Artesian Pools!

Or stick around for the Boulia Camel Races – longest track in Australia; then move on to Winton for more races the following weekend.

Where: Bedourie is a 216 km drive – mostly sealed with about 14 km of dirt – south of Boulia; or 164 km north of Birdsville – mostly dirt.

When: Bedourie Camel Races 2018 Dates TBA, but usually the weekend before the Boulia Camel Races; Boulia Camel Race Weekend on Friday 20th – Sunday 22nd July 2017 AND Winton Camel Races Dates TBA, but usually the weekend after the Boulia Camel Races.

MORE about Bedourie Camel Races

Super Pit, Kalgoorlie
Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

7 Unnatural Attractions

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Standing on the edge of a massive man-made crater stretching for nearly 4 km and waiting for a blast that’ll knock the sides out even further is like nothing else you’ll see in the Outback. A bold scheme (somewhat like its founder Alan Bond) the Super Pit combines leases and resources to more efficiently mine the Golden Mile – one of the richest seams of gold in the world.

A town able to survive because of an ambitious engineering feat piping water from the outskirts of Perth, nearly 600 km to the west, Kalgoorlie is a gold-mining town 24-7.

There’s nothing quite like the Outback’s natural attractions – but there’s something strangely compelling about this very unnatural one!

Where: 600 km east of Perth

MORE about Kalgoorlie-Boulder and the Super Pit

Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland
Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland (pic by Pilchard)

8 RED!

Windorah, Queensland

A number of localities vie for the honour of being the REDdest place in Australia. But for the reddest accessible outback HOT spot, there’s no contest.

Even with my old FILM camera, the red sand dunes west of Queensland Outback town Windorah are so startlingly vivid they almost hurt the eyes. Windorah has the added inducement of being closest town to Australian icon Cooper’s Creek – only place in the world where two rivers meet to form a creek. Then a little further west there’s the weirdly signposted ‘Point of Interest’, and a little further beyond that, The Little Loo at the end of the Universe – my most popular Scenic Public Toilet ever!

That’s all very nice. But it’s those RED sand dunes that get me every time!

Where: Windorah is 239 km north-west of Quilpie (see #3 above), along the Diamantina Developmental Road

MORE about Windorah and Cooper’s Creek

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley
Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley

9 Wildlife Watching

Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

As the crocodiles zig-zagged through the otherwise tranquil waters of Marlgu Billabong, centrepiece of the Parry Lagoons Nature reserve, the 65 species of birds we saw over two visits seemed unperturbed. Maybe the crocs were after bigger prey? That’s why we stayed firmly behind the barriers of the viewing platform over this magnificent inland billabong and breeding ground that attracts thousands of birds.

And bird-watchers!!

Only a few kilometres from East Kimberley Town Wyndham, the lagoon is a dramatically beautiful dry-season oasis against the stark colours and boab-tree-studded landscape that surrounds it.

Where: Marlgu Billabong is ~15 km on a dirt road from Wyndham.  Wyndham is ~100 km north-west of Kununurra on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard's Lookout, South Australia
Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard’s Lookout, South Australia

10 Ridge Top Tour

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, South Australia

Experience extreme Outback Adventure on a bone-shaking 4 hour return trip through the (almost) trackless adventureland of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary to Sillers Lookout. Even though you won’t be driving yourself on this tour, it’s full of heart-stopping action on steep tracks with vertigo-inducing drop-offs and staggering scenery from several vantage points that show off northern South Australia to supreme advantage.

Australia’s premier eco-tourism destination (IMHO), Arkaroola is set amidst a fantastic landscape with an extraordinary array of rocks and minerals, superb natural attractions, amazing self-drive exploratory tours (mostly 4WD only), rugged hikes and an observatory for star-gazing.

The Ridge-top tour is conducted by Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and for my money, it’s the ultimate Aussie Outback experience of all time. And I’m happy for any other tour operators to prove me wrong!

Where: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is 125 km north-east from Copley on an all-weather dirt road. Copley is ~600 km north of Adelaide on a fully sealed road – and if the weather prevents you from getting out to Arkaroola, Copley makes a fine alternative destination

MORE about Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and Copley

Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

WARNING:

This post is an introduction to guide you to some of the more accessible Outback Experiences.

ANY trip to the Outback, no matter how easy it appears, MUST be carefully planned.  Please visit websites like Travel Outback Australia, Outback Australia Travel Guide or Outback Travel Australia for advice and to ensure you are well-prepared, and carry extra water and supplies at all times.

Why?  Because you’ll be faced with:

  • Long distances
  • Extreme temperatures
  • Minimal facilities
  • Limited services, including mobile phone access
  • Harsh conditions

 

* IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

** Please note: These models of Subaru generally have slightly higher clearance than a standard car, and can be switched to 4WD mode if required.

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

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TOP 7 Central Australian RED HOT Spots once you’re done with Uluru! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/01/top-7-central-australian-red-hot-spots-once-youre-done-with-uluru/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/01/top-7-central-australian-red-hot-spots-once-youre-done-with-uluru/#comments Tue, 21 Jan 2014 00:33:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=8 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For some, the whole point of Central Australia is Uluru. For others the whole point of AUSTRALIA is Uluru. And who can blame them? It’s HUGE. It’s magnificent. It’s RED!! But Central OZ isn’t just about Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Of COURSE they’re several kinds of awesome, but there are lots of other attractions that’ll show you just as good[...]

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Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

For some, the whole point of Central Australia is Uluru. For others the whole point of AUSTRALIA is Uluru. And who can blame them? It’s HUGE. It’s magnificent. It’s RED!!

But Central OZ isn’t just about Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Of COURSE they’re several kinds of awesome, but there are lots of other attractions that’ll show you just as good (and far less crowded) a time! And – even better – they’ve all got that trademark Central Australian RED!

So you’ve hired the car, seen Uluru and you’ve got another few days to kill. Or if you’re REALLY lucky, you’re an Aussie with a camper trailer and a bit of time on your hands.

Just like me!

So what do you do?  Hit the road – and see my TOP 7 Central OZ Red HOT Spots!  Just click the headings for more info!!

Kings Canyon Walls, Central Australia
Kings Canyon Walls, Central Australia

1. Watarrka (Kings Canyon)

Just down the road and round the corner from Uluru, Watarrka, as it is known to the local indigenous people is SO worth the 166 km one way detour off the Lasseter Highway back towards Alice Springs. For many Aussies, visiting Kings Canyon is a tribute pilgrimage to a famous scene from classic OZ movie ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert’. Haven’t seen it? Click HERE for a trailer!

View from Kings Canyon Rim Walk, Central Australia
View from Kings Canyon Rim Walk, Central Australia

But you don’t have to hike the Canyon in a frock to show yourself a good time. The 6 km (4 mile) Canyon Rim circuit requires a reasonable level of fitness, but as you cross the rugged rocks you’ll get to see stunning vistas across the plain, the Lost City and Garden of Eden and sensational sunsets that make those towering rocky RED cliffs GLOW.

Besides, it’s not a race! Is it?

Stay at the Kings Canyon Wilderness Resort campground (closest to the Canyon) or at nearby Kings Creek station so you don’t have to rush. The men in frocks have long gone, but the awesome RED Canyon will be here for a LONG while yet!

2. Stuarts Well

So you’re back on the Stuart Highway heading north to Alice Springs. An hour or so before you get there, you’ll pass the Stuarts Well Roadhouse. Unless you’re a SMART traveller, in which case you’ll stop. Because Stuarts Well has one of the most bizarre and uniquely Australian Outback travel experiences you’re likely to see.

Stuarts Well Campground, Central Australia
Stuarts Well Campground, Central Australia

Unless you’ve already spotted a singing, piano playing Dingo named Dinky someplace else, that is.

For many years, roadhouse owner Jim ran tours to Kings Canyon from a resort he and his family built from scratch on nearby leasehold land. Until one year, the landowner resisted all attempts to re-negotiate their lease. Strangely unwilling to ‘gift’ the resort they’d paid for and built by themselves on their leasehold to someone who hadn’t done anything towards it but collect the rent, Jim and his family destroyed it.

Dinky, the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo, Stuarts Well
Dinky, the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo, Stuarts Well

Now Jim’s based at Stuarts Well. As well as running tours to nearby Rainbow Valley, Jim now assists visitors achieve their (perhaps as yet unrealised) dream of seeing a singing, piano playing real live dingo in the flesh! For perhaps the first and last times in their lives …

There’s even accommodation and campsites at the roadhouse for those who want a dinner and show experience with a difference!

STOP PRESS!  In what must be a dark day for Central Australian Tourism, Dinky the Singing, Piano Playing Dingo has retired.  Of course, the legend lives on in the hearts and minds of those who have seen him … AND countless YouTube clips!  See Dinky in full voice HERE!

Just as well there’s a special bonus EXTRA attraction below to make up the numbers, huh?!

3. Rainbow Valley

Scenic Public Loo at Rainbow Valley, Central Australia
Scenic Public Loo at Rainbow Valley, Central Australia

Staying at Stuarts Well puts you in the hot seat for a 22 km one way dirt road detour off the Stuart Highway to the amazing Rainbow Valley.

Rainbow Valley Rocks!
Rainbow Valley Rocks! (pic by Pilchard)

With a rainbow of multicoloured rocks rising above the (frequently dry) salt lake in front of it, the rocks are easily accessed from a short track from the visitors car park.

Exploring and/or photographing the rocks is an excellent way to pass a few hours. Or a day. Or more …

Stay at the Rainbow Valley Campground (is it a coincidence that my best photo of the Valley contains one of the best Scenic Public Toilets in the country?) to be right in the (RED) hot seat for some extraordinary outback sunsets.And if it rains?Well … the road might be impassable, but at least you’ll get to-die-for pics of the amazing Rainbow Valley formations reflected in the lake!

And I’ll be as jealous as hell!

4. The Ochre Pits

Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Ochre Pits, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

Many years ago when I first toured the West MacDonnell Ranges, I didn’t call in to the Ochre Pits ~115 km from Alice Springs along Namatjira Drive. I won’t be making that mistake again! The intriguing contours of (not just RED) colour in the creek bed and surrounding rocks, and its status as a place of significance to local Indigenous people from the area show a different – and fascinating – side to Central Australia.

5. Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

Just up the road from the Ochre Pits, if you can’t find LOTS of cool things to do at Ormiston Gorge, you clearly haven’t read my 7 TOP Ormiston Gorge attractions guide (see link in title)!

Yes, it’s going to take more than one day to explore this end of the West MacDonnell Ranges and Ormiston Gorge is the best spot from which to do it!

Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

Staying at the nearby Glen Helen Resort with its own spectacular gorge, or the Ormiston Gorge campground means you don’t have to rush back to Alice Springs before you’ve seen – and done – everything.

But be warned. Don’t bother with this option unless you’re up for magnificent sunrises and sunsets; the Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk – one of the best short(ish) hikes in OZ; the stupendous splendour of nearby Mt Sonder; the beauty of Glen Helen Gorge and the glorious, glowing RED – everywhere!

6. Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) Conservation Reserve

Tylers Pass Lookout, West MacDonnell Ranges,  Central Australia
Tylers Pass Lookout, West MacDonnell Ranges,  Central Australia

This is as close as I got to Gosse Bluff. 175 km west of Alice Springs, the long line of gorges, waterholes and mountain ranges that forms the West MacDonnell Ranges comes to an end at Tylers Pass – from here the road snakes down onto the plain.

We’d spent the day exploring the area around Ormiston Gorge and driving as far as the Tylers Pass lookout had been an afterthought to end the day before heading back to the campground.

About 21 km from the lookout, the vast bulk of Tnorala – the remains of a comet crater, 5 km (~3 miles) across – is an impressive sight.

Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) from Tylers Pass Lookout, Central Australia
Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) from Tylers Pass Lookout, Central Australia

With no camping allowed at the Bluff, the only option was a flying visit. But even if we’d wanted to attempt a kamikaze night drive cutting a swathe through the nocturnal desert creatures feeding at the road’s edge, visitors to Tnorala need a Mereenie Tour Pass. And the nearest place to get one was back at Glen Helen Station.

But it’s SO on the list for next time!

Simpsons Gap via Alice Springs, Northern Territory
Simpsons Gap via Alice Springs, Northern Territory

7. Simpsons Gap

Yes, I know. EVERYONE’S been to Simpsons Gap, that narrow passage (there’s only so many ways to say ‘Gap’) through the MacDonnell ranges.

Only 18 km west of Alice Springs (or 17 km along the bike track) it’s the ‘Claytons’ Central Australia tripette de rigueur from the Alice if you haven’t got much time.

And there’s nothing wrong with that!

Simpsons Gap from Cassia Hill Walk, Central Australia
Simpsons Gap from Cassia Hill Walk, Central Australia

BUT the rewards are even greater for those who spend a bit more time and take the 1 hour return Cassia Hill walk up onto the schist escarpment (once part of the floor of a massive inland sea) and look down on the Gap.

Wildflowers, classic Central Australian scenery – and a staggering 360ºview, of which Simpsons Gap is a very small part.

That’s the thing about Central Australia. Wide open spaces. Magnificent mountain ranges. And an endless supply of RED!

Ranges from Cassia Hill Walk, Simpsons Gap, Central Australia
Ranges from Cassia Hill Walk, Simpsons Gap, Central Australia

Did I say SEVEN cool things? Of course there are WAAAAAAY more than that – so here’s another one for nothing!

8. Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles)

Sunrise at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), Northern Territory
Sunrise at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), Northern Territory

Even though it’s 412 km and ~4 hours north of Alice Springs, the great sprawl of spherical sandstone rocks weathered by the wind and sand all aglow in the Outback light are worth the trek.

Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) Campground, Northern Territory
Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) Campground, Northern Territory

Especially if you’re there at sunset. Or sunrise! Which generally means staying at the Devils Marbles campground, or at either of the nearby settlements of Wauchope or Wycliffe Well.

Aboriginal Dreamtime legend and scientific explanation both offer theories about the spheres’ formation. But in this region with its strong colours, harsh climate and stark beauty, the Indigenous theory seems more appropriate. It’s easy to see why this is a sacred site and also a ceremonial and trade meeting place for four different Aboriginal language groups.

Karlu Karlu/Devils Marbles, Northern Territory
Karlu Karlu/Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

Besides, just 20 minutes further south and also renowned as the alien capital of Australia is Wycliffe Well! But that’s another story …

Central Australia has enough other attractions in both colours – RED and not-RED – to keep you busy for weeks.

What’s YOUR favourite?

Want MORE?

Major Mitchell Cockatoo near Alice Springs, Northern Territory
Major Mitchell Cockatoo near Alice Springs, Northern Territory

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Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:20:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=66 NEW from RedzAustralia!

It doesn’t matter where we are. Or how far we’ve travelled. Or how hot it is. Or cold. Or what time of day. Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast. We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café! Because it’s ALWAYS open. For us … … and[...]

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The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

It doesn’t matter where we are.

Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, Far North Queensland
Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, FNQ

Or how far we’ve travelled.

Or how hot it is.

Or cold.

Or what time of day.

Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast.

We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café!

Because it’s ALWAYS open.

For us …

… and serves up food just the way we like it!

With fresh, local ingredients.

Like food from our favourite bakeries.

Or fast food.

Or even good, old fashioned home-cooked meals.

But Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café isn’t open to just ANYONE!  Its exclusive membership deals are just for two!

The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia
The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia

Usually.

BUT … there’s an occasional dispensation for a special guest, or a mate.

Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales
Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales

And the best thing about Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café?

Against a fascinating and ever-changing backdrop – tropical, desert, coastal, inland, rocky, sandy, scrub, bushland, beach, mallee, lakes, rivers – the Café provides an oasis of stability.

Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Because no matter how dramatic the changes to scenery, weather or company, the Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café Chairs have remained the same for nearly a decade.

So whatever adventures we’re having on the road, we come home to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café.

Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland
Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland

And our Café Chairs!

They’re not even close to being worn out yet, so if you’re out on the road and you see them (and us!), why not drop in and see if the Cafe’s open?!

Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia
Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia

Want MORE?

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The Best Shots I Never Took … Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/the-best-shots-i-never-took-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/09/the-best-shots-i-never-took-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/#comments Tue, 25 Sep 2012 03:57:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=110 NEW from RedzAustralia!

‘If it’s a choice between my camera and the family jewels, you know what to do,’ I instructed Pilchard as I plunged into the thigh-high frigid water flowing through Ormiston Gorge. Despite the hypothermia warnings on the Ormiston Gorge fact sheet, it was either that or return the seven km (~4.5 miles) we’d already come over a cross section of[...]

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Ormiston Gorge and Pound from the lookout, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound from the lookout, Central Australia

‘If it’s a choice between my camera and the family jewels, you know what to do,’ I instructed Pilchard as I plunged into the thigh-high frigid water flowing through Ormiston Gorge.

Despite the hypothermia warnings on the Ormiston Gorge fact sheet, it was either that or return the seven km (~4.5 miles) we’d already come over a cross section of rugged terrain. While it’d be a treat to see the towering red walls, two rocky river crossings, the Pound’s vast wasteland surrounded by massive mountains and cliffs, the saddle’s rocky scree, wildflowers, spinifex and steep rocky gorges and, of course, the symphonic splendour of Mt Sonder again for the second time that day, I wasn’t really up for another seven km.

Mt Sonder from Ormiston Gorge and Pound trail, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from Ormiston Gorge and Pound trail, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia

Not without the lunch we’d planned to have on our return, anyway.

A few hours earlier at the trailhead, we’d seen the sign warning of a potential swim through the creek at the end of the loop. But we’d heard the water wasn’t that deep and besides, we could always follow the trail for a couple of hours then return if it all looked too hard.

Spot the Pilchard!  The Saddle, Ormiston Gorge and Pound trail
Spot the Pilchard!  The Saddle, Ormiston Gorge and Pound trail

And so we set off on one of the most scenically and geographically varied hikes we’d yet encountered. Looking back, we could see the red walls of the gorge in the distance and if all went well, we’d be walking under them a few kilometres down the track. As we climbed the steep gorge through wildflowers lining the rocky trail, the magnificent Mt Sonder came into view. Continuing into extraordinary spinifex we kept a lookout for the delightful spinifex pigeons that everyone assured us were plentiful on this walk.  They weren’t.

Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, West MacDonnell Ranges
Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, West MacDonnell Ranges

The scree covered saddle, much more extensive than it first appeared as we exited a well vegetated but spinifex-pigeon-free valley, was a surprise after the country we’d just traversed. Unable to see over the horizon, we had no forewarning of the jaw dropping view we’d see at its peak. The moving scree turned out to be a lone hiker, red-faced and shirtless, who’d walked the loop in the opposite direction.

‘How high’s the water?’ I asked, anxious to learn what was ahead.

‘Higher than your knees,’ he replied, euphemistically as it turned out. But taking him literally, we continued to the lip of the saddle and a short detour to the lookout above.

Pilchard in the Pound, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia
Pilchard in the Pound, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia

Did I say ‘lookout’? The scenery, staggering for every one of its 360º, made taking a rest break redundant as I desperately tried to fill my camera card without falling off the edge. The ancient grandeur of West MacDonnell National Park was putting on a fabulous show, just for the two of us.

Down below, the creek crossing awaited. With natural wonders like this – and more to come – we resolved to complete the loop no matter how unappealing wet knees seemed.

Continuing down a steep, rocky slope onto an exposed ridge leading into the Pound itself gave us magnificent views back up the valley to the lookout and to the mountains ringing the valley. And then we entered the gorge.

Red and Red Rocks in Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia
Red and Red Rocks in Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia

Rock-hopping down the mostly dry riverbed between the towering red cliffs on either side was worth whatever the creek crossing threw at us. Wasn’t it? A group of hikers, some taller than Pilchard passed us, trousers wet to the waist. HHHMMMmmm… suddenly the knee-high claim of our shirtless friend didn’t seem quite so watertight!

At the crossing point, the creek flowed deep and silent in the shade of the gorge where the sun sets in the early afternoon. It even LOOKED cold! Now we had another decision to make. The end of the loop – and our campsite – was only a short distance away on the other side. Given the chilly wind whipping around our ankles, did we want to complete the walk with wet clothing?

Entering Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park, Northern Territory
Entering Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park, Northern Territory

Compromising by removing my shorts – well, my underwear just might provide a small modicum of protection from the cold – I studied the track through the creek. It was really only a few metres to the other side, and the crossing should take less than a minute.

‘You’re more likely to lose your footing than me (true), so give me your camera,’ Pilchard demanded. ‘I’ll keep it in the backpack so it doesn’t get wet.’ Unable to argue with such irrefutable logic I handed it over.

‘Don’t think about it, just do it!’ Pilchard urged so picking up my boots and socks I charged the creek into water so cold it took my breath away.

Ormiston Gorge Creek - complete with Dingo!!
Ormiston Gorge Creek – complete with Dingo!!

Did I say thigh-high? 15 seconds into the stream, the water at crotch level – and rising – my feet and legs turned numb. Although it was a bonus not to be able to feel the rocks underfoot, failure to negotiate the treacherous, slimy and uneven surface below the water would mean exposure of more than my nether regions to the deathly chill of the water.

As he entered the water behind me Pilchard shouted directions.

‘Further to the right’ and ‘head for those rocks’ he called. And then it was over.

For me, at least.

I turned to watch Pilchard splashing through the last few metres of water, clothing held aloft, teeth already chattering with the cold. I reached for my camera. How good would a picture of THAT be?!?!

He caught my eye and smirked, then I realised the extent of his cunning plan. Yes, he’d followed my instructions a little too well.  He’d saved the camera from a dunking AND the family jewels from anything incriminating!!

So there’s no point looking for the creek crossing shot because there isn’t one – the photos end here with this unbearably clichéd shot of red gorge walls in the late afternoon light!!

Late Afternoon at Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park
Late Afternoon at Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell National Park

But YOU know who to blame, don’t you?!?!

Want MORE?

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