Bedourie Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/bedourie/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Wed, 19 Aug 2020 10:45:04 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Bedourie Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/bedourie/ 32 32 Red’s TOP 10 Accessible Outback Experiences https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/03/reds-top-10-accessible-outback-experiences/#comments Sun, 01 Mar 2015 14:19:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3191 NEW from RedzAustralia!

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day. You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules: Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think! Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy,[...]

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View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland
View of Quilpie from Baldy Top, Quilpie, Queensland

If you’ve ever decided against touring the Aussie Outback because you don’t have a 4WD, today is your lucky day.

You CAN visit the Australian Outback in a standard, non-4WD car! Just follow these simple rules:

  • Choose destinations that don’t require an especially equipped vehicle – there are more than you think!
  • Know your vehicle’s limitations – consider fuel economy, range, clearance, tyres, weight rating, space – in relation to where you want to go.
  • Outsource the driving (eg take a tour, hitch a ride) when conditions don’t suit.
  • Check all road, weather and travelling conditions in advance – rain, road works, flooding etc can all cause road closures.
  • Take the advice you receive – be prepared to change your plans if conditions are not suitable for your vehicle.  Having a Plan B always helps!
  • Get road assistance (eg NRMA, RAA, RACQ etc), but be aware of any exclusions – sometimes road assistance to remote areas isn’t available.
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA
Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, SA

Pilchard and I have travelled to all the RedzAustralia TOP 10 Accessible Outback HOT Spots below in either a Subaru** Touring Wagon, a Subaru Forester or a Subaru Outback. Sometimes we’ve even had a NON-off-road camper trailer in tow. We’re not foolhardy risk-takers – we just follow those rules.

But if we can have these 10 Accessible Outback Experiences without extreme 4 wheel driving, then so can you!

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

1 Whale Watching

Head of Bight, South Australia

Stand atop the Bunda Cliffs – longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the world – and watch the whales cavorting below! Yes, you’re in the Outback – and this section of the all-bitumen Eyre Highway separating Ceduna from Norseman, ~1200 km west, is Outback all the way.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain en route from Sydney and Perth, around ~ 4000 km, is one of Australia’s great road trips. Full of life changing experiences – think driving Australia’s longest straight stretch of road; golfing on the world’s longest golf course; and unravelling the mystery of the Nullarbor Nymph (take links below for details) – it’s a TOP Outback experience in itself, even without the whales.

Where: Head of Bight Whale Watching centre is just off the Eyre Highway, ~220 km east of Eucla on the WA/SA border

When: Whale season is from June to October

Stay: Nullarbor Roadhouse, 26 km from Head of Bight Whale Watching area

MORE about Head of Bight and the Nullarbor Plain

White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW
White Cliffs Fossicking Fields, NSW

2 Opal Fossicking

White Cliffs, New South Wales

The tiny opal mining town of White Cliffs is the only place in the world where unusual pineapple opals occur naturally. Despite spending a couple of afternoons on the mullock heaps, the only ‘colour’ (opal-speak for actual opal) we found was pretty, but worthless. Maybe you’ll have better luck? We certainly did when we gave the diggings away and ‘found’ some opal in the White Cliffs township, along with the world’s only above-ground mineshaft tour, a self-guided historic walk and unusual architecture shaped by harsh weather conditions and limited building materials.

If you’re car’s up to it, take the rugged, unsealed Wanaaring road for 33 km to the Paroo-Darling National Park and Peery Lake, at over 30 km long the largest overflow lake along the river.

Where: White Cliffs is 96 km north-west of Wilcannia, which is 195 km east of Broken Hill on fully sealed roads

MORE about White Cliffs

Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run
Plane Wreck on Station, Quilpie Mail Run

3 Mail Run

Quilpie, Queensland

It’d be difficult to drive yourself north over ~400 km of mostly dirt station tracks through magnificent outback scenery – it passes through 10 pastoral properties. But hitch a ride with the local postie to deliver the mail, catch up with some of the locals and see what’s outside the Quilpie city limits!

When you’re done with the Mail Run, climb nearby Baldy Top lookout (top photo) for a great view over this remote Boulder Opal mining town on the edge of nowhere. Explore west by driving 100 km to Eromanga, reportedly the furthest town from the ocean in Australia; fossick for opal at the caravan park’s ‘Deuces Wild’ lease; or drive 75 km south to Toompine for an Outback Pub experience.

Where: Quilpie is 211 km west of Charleville on the Cooper Developmental Road; and ~950 km west of Brisbane on the Warrego Highway, all sealed

MORE about Quilpie and Eromanga

Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley
Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Kimberley

4 The Gibb River Road

via Derby, Kimberley, Western Australia

There’s NO WAY that driving the 660 km of rugged, stony, tyre-shredding Gibb River Road (also known as the ‘Boys Own Adventure’ route) from Kununurra to Derby qualifies as an ‘Accessible Outback’ experience.

But the ‘Gibb River Road LITE’ version does!

Outsource the driving and hit the notorious road on a 4WD bus (it’s a school bus in its spare time) from North-west Kimberley town Derby for a 360 km round trip on the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, then back again.

So sit back, enjoy morning tea and lunch en route to the main attractions, and save your car and/or rig for the bitumen.

Where: Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour leaves from Derby, 220 km north-east of Broome, Western Australia

Road Conditions: Appalling! That’s why you’re letting someone else do the driving, remember??!!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and the Kimberley

Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk, Central Australia

5 Hiking

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory

The amazingly varied and superb Outback scenery makes the 7 km Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk one of the best short-ish hikes in Australia (IMHO). But it helps that it’s superbly placed amidst the ancient rocky landscape of the West MacDonnell Ranges, traversed by the Finke River, oldest waterway in the world.

Ormiston Gorge is the smart alternative if you want to dodge the crowds at Uluru AND experience Outback magic with classic scenery, wildlife and a variety of walks. It’s SO good, a two-night stay turned into six nights!

Where: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges, 128 km west of Alice Springs on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Ormiston Gorge

Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland
Camel Races, Bedourie, Outback Queensland

6 Camel Races

Bedourie, Queensland

Don’t expect to see horses at the Bedourie races – it’s camels all the way in the lead up to nearby Boulia’s camel race weekend. Join Bedourie locals for a TOP day out with racing, wood-chopping, good Aussie tucker, entertainment and an evening dance – to be held in 2016 on 9 July.

Home of the iconic Bedourie Oven, the town sits almost half-way between two other Western Queensland racing icons – Boulia, and the centre of Australia’s racing universe – Birdsville, with it’s world famous race meet held in September. Once the races are over, explore the area or just relax in the town’s Hot Artesian Pools!

Or stick around for the Boulia Camel Races – longest track in Australia; then move on to Winton for more races the following weekend.

Where: Bedourie is a 216 km drive – mostly sealed with about 14 km of dirt – south of Boulia; or 164 km north of Birdsville – mostly dirt.

When: Bedourie Camel Races 2018 Dates TBA, but usually the weekend before the Boulia Camel Races; Boulia Camel Race Weekend on Friday 20th – Sunday 22nd July 2017 AND Winton Camel Races Dates TBA, but usually the weekend after the Boulia Camel Races.

MORE about Bedourie Camel Races

Super Pit, Kalgoorlie
Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

7 Unnatural Attractions

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Standing on the edge of a massive man-made crater stretching for nearly 4 km and waiting for a blast that’ll knock the sides out even further is like nothing else you’ll see in the Outback. A bold scheme (somewhat like its founder Alan Bond) the Super Pit combines leases and resources to more efficiently mine the Golden Mile – one of the richest seams of gold in the world.

A town able to survive because of an ambitious engineering feat piping water from the outskirts of Perth, nearly 600 km to the west, Kalgoorlie is a gold-mining town 24-7.

There’s nothing quite like the Outback’s natural attractions – but there’s something strangely compelling about this very unnatural one!

Where: 600 km east of Perth

MORE about Kalgoorlie-Boulder and the Super Pit

Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland
Red on RED! Dunes at Windorah, Outback Queensland (pic by Pilchard)

8 RED!

Windorah, Queensland

A number of localities vie for the honour of being the REDdest place in Australia. But for the reddest accessible outback HOT spot, there’s no contest.

Even with my old FILM camera, the red sand dunes west of Queensland Outback town Windorah are so startlingly vivid they almost hurt the eyes. Windorah has the added inducement of being closest town to Australian icon Cooper’s Creek – only place in the world where two rivers meet to form a creek. Then a little further west there’s the weirdly signposted ‘Point of Interest’, and a little further beyond that, The Little Loo at the end of the Universe – my most popular Scenic Public Toilet ever!

That’s all very nice. But it’s those RED sand dunes that get me every time!

Where: Windorah is 239 km north-west of Quilpie (see #3 above), along the Diamantina Developmental Road

MORE about Windorah and Cooper’s Creek

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley
Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley

9 Wildlife Watching

Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

As the crocodiles zig-zagged through the otherwise tranquil waters of Marlgu Billabong, centrepiece of the Parry Lagoons Nature reserve, the 65 species of birds we saw over two visits seemed unperturbed. Maybe the crocs were after bigger prey? That’s why we stayed firmly behind the barriers of the viewing platform over this magnificent inland billabong and breeding ground that attracts thousands of birds.

And bird-watchers!!

Only a few kilometres from East Kimberley Town Wyndham, the lagoon is a dramatically beautiful dry-season oasis against the stark colours and boab-tree-studded landscape that surrounds it.

Where: Marlgu Billabong is ~15 km on a dirt road from Wyndham.  Wyndham is ~100 km north-west of Kununurra on a fully sealed road.

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard's Lookout, South Australia
Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour view from Coulthard’s Lookout, South Australia

10 Ridge Top Tour

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, South Australia

Experience extreme Outback Adventure on a bone-shaking 4 hour return trip through the (almost) trackless adventureland of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary to Sillers Lookout. Even though you won’t be driving yourself on this tour, it’s full of heart-stopping action on steep tracks with vertigo-inducing drop-offs and staggering scenery from several vantage points that show off northern South Australia to supreme advantage.

Australia’s premier eco-tourism destination (IMHO), Arkaroola is set amidst a fantastic landscape with an extraordinary array of rocks and minerals, superb natural attractions, amazing self-drive exploratory tours (mostly 4WD only), rugged hikes and an observatory for star-gazing.

The Ridge-top tour is conducted by Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and for my money, it’s the ultimate Aussie Outback experience of all time. And I’m happy for any other tour operators to prove me wrong!

Where: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is 125 km north-east from Copley on an all-weather dirt road. Copley is ~600 km north of Adelaide on a fully sealed road – and if the weather prevents you from getting out to Arkaroola, Copley makes a fine alternative destination

MORE about Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and Copley

Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Driving to Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

WARNING:

This post is an introduction to guide you to some of the more accessible Outback Experiences.

ANY trip to the Outback, no matter how easy it appears, MUST be carefully planned.  Please visit websites like Travel Outback Australia, Outback Australia Travel Guide or Outback Travel Australia for advice and to ensure you are well-prepared, and carry extra water and supplies at all times.

Why?  Because you’ll be faced with:

  • Long distances
  • Extreme temperatures
  • Minimal facilities
  • Limited services, including mobile phone access
  • Harsh conditions

 

* IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

** Please note: These models of Subaru generally have slightly higher clearance than a standard car, and can be switched to 4WD mode if required.

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

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Camels, Cowboys and Cockies Joy – Bedourie, Queensland https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/07/camels-cowboys-and-cockies-joy-bedourie-queensland/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/07/camels-cowboys-and-cockies-joy-bedourie-queensland/#comments Sat, 23 Jul 2011 02:31:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=198 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Cockroaches, cane toads and camels are generally considered physically and/or temperamentally unsuited to commercial racing. But here in OZ, the absence of animals traditionally raced, such as horses and dogs, is no hindrance to holding a race meet… Although all these races are held in Australia, I’ve yet to experience the pleasures of cane toad or cockroach racing. But …[...]

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Excitement on and off the track - Bedourie Camel Races, 2011
Excitement on and off the track – Bedourie Camel Races, 2011

Cockroaches, cane toads and camels are generally considered physically and/or temperamentally unsuited to commercial racing. But here in OZ, the absence of animals traditionally raced, such as horses and dogs, is no hindrance to holding a race meet…

Although all these races are held in Australia, I’ve yet to experience the pleasures of cane toad or cockroach racing. But … camels are another story!

We Three Kings ... Camel handlers lead the camels to the starting line!
We Three Kings … Camel handlers lead the camels to the starting line!

Bedourie – home of the eponymous camp-oven – on the edge of nowhere in Queensland’s far west may not have its own postcode or mobile phone access – but who cares? The trappings of civilization are SO not required at the Bedourie camel races!!

The Finish Line!!
The Finish Line!!

Despite being a virgin race-goer prior to this event, I’m more than betting the Bedourie camel races are unique in this respect – the major city races televised by the bookies for benefit of local punters seemed (and were!) a thousand miles away! And thereby dull by comparison…

That was a good thing.

I think.

Otherwise a blip on the radar between Birdsville and Boulia for travellers, this fantastic outback experience swells Bedourie’s population of ~150 considerably as tourists, workers from outlying stations and hell, anyone looking for a great day out join the locals at the track.

Generally held the weekend before Boulia’s more well known races (although in 2011, the Boulia races were a wash-out), it’s also a great opportunity for camel riders and handlers to fine-tune their skills, there being a dearth of official camel race meets where experience can be gained!

The Boys from the Bush**
The Boys from the Bush**

 

I’m not sure how common colour-blind race-callers are; or if other race programmes are suspended when the ambulance is called out on a real emergency. But I’m betting the ute* full of camel handlers following the racing camels to the finishing post doesn’t appear too often at Randwick!!

Neck in Neck
Neck in Neck

Hard to imagine as the dust billowed up around us that a few short months ago, this remote town was completely cut off by flood waters! But when the dust cleared? Coming from behind after an early tantrum to easily win her heat, my pick – Daisy – ultimately lost to the favourite from Boulia. Bummer.

Happily, there were other distractions on the programme to lessen the pain …

Fruit Damper and Cockies Joy!
Fruit Damper and Cockies Joy (aka Golden Syrup)!

Even to seasoned bakery connoisseurs like Pilchard and I, the morning tea slices of fruit-studded damper*** were daunting. So large – yes, that IS a dinner plate they’re sitting on – we took so long to eat it that we missed a heat!! But a liberal addition of cockies joy, and mug of billy**** tea on the side takes this classic stockman’s standby from pretty damn fine to FAAAAABULOUS!! Ironic that cockies joy***** replaced sugar, honey or jam – being cheaper than all three – during the 1930s depression… no chance of that these days – it’s the first choice for ANY self respecting damper addict!!

The boys line up ... Instructions for the wood-chop event
The boys line up … Instructions for the wood-chop event

And then, the amateur wood-chopping competition where the cream of the region’s young, hotmuscularbuff, fit men – many of them station workers (or cowboys, if you prefer the American vernacular) shed their Akubras and roll up their sleeves to hack through the log they’re standing on with an axe – and without cutting off major body parts.

How do you top that? With teams of two taking turns at the standing block, of course!! Sigh …

Be still my beating heart …

The Team Wood Chopping Event - Bedourie Camel Races 2011
The Team Wood Chopping Event – Bedourie Camel Races 2011

Not much left to do after that excitement but to retire to the spa … Thank god for Bedourie’s foresight in harnessing the Great Artesian Basin’s almost limitless supply of hot water bubbling from the subterranean depths into a public pool to relax those tired muscles. Bliss!!

Yes, you’ve missed the July 2011 Bedourie camel races. So yes, it sucks to be you! But don’t despair – there’s always another year!!

And the cockroach and cane toad races? I’ll save them for another day!

* ute = utility = pick-up truck.

** ‘Boys from the Bush’, by Aussie country singer, Lee Kernaghan.  Lee’s also got another hit – ‘She’s my Ute’ (see above)!

*** damper = campfire bread. Traditionally made with flour and water, then thrown on the coals to cook, today’s damper is far more sophisticated. Using a camp-oven means no filling-cracker campfire detritus stuck to the crust, and flavourings such as bacon/cheese or fruit, lift it from its humble origins to the sublime!!

**** billy = metal container with lid used for campfire cooking. ‘Boiling the billy’ is an OZ euphemism for ‘smoko’, which in turn is a euphemism for having a tea break. To make ‘billy tea’ in the traditional way, boil the water in the billy, add tea leaves, replace the lid, then spin the billy the full 360º! This is said to improve the flavour, although the pyromaniacs among us (yes, Pilchard – that’s you!!!) are happy enough with the taste imparted by a real campfire.

***** cockies joy = golden syrup! Cockie = ‘cockatoo farmer’ – a phrase used to describe a farmer with more cockatoos than cattle (ie poor).

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