National Parks Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/national-park/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Tue, 04 May 2021 12:09:00 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg National Parks Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/national-park/ 32 32 7 Days in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia – A Beginners Guide https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/#comments Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:49:45 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5628 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am. Praise be I’m in[...]

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Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am.

Praise be I’m in South Australia, so I’ve pretty much got that killer landscape all to myself!

St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

St Mary’s Peak, 1171 metres (3842 ft) above sea level and highest point, is pretty low by world standards. But from the plains below, it soars to the apex of a 17 km (10.5 mile) stretch of jagged pinnacles forming the outer rim of Wilpena Pound, best known attraction in the Flinders Ranges.

Cars on the road below, dwarfed by these ancient landforms eroded over millenia to a fraction of their original size, will rust into oblivion before these timeless ranges turn to dust.

Yes, channelling my inner philosopher while travelling the folds and faults of the Adelaide Geosyncline forming these ranges is WAY too easy!

Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

It’s also WAY too easy to admire the staggering scenery, especially because there’s no amazing view that can’t be enhanced by an awesome scenic loo! IMHO. But even if you’re not an amenities admirer or dunny detective like me, it’s got enough mountains, gorges, historic sites, wildflowers, rock formations, lookouts, 4WD tracks and wildlife to keep you busy.

VERY busy.

SO … if you HAVEN’T been here, you’ll be wondering where to start, right?

DON’T PANIC! All you need to do is keep reading!

This 7 Day Flinders Ranges itinerary is mostly based in the Central Flinders Ranges, and Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

That’s because I’m being gentle with you – after all, it’s your first time!

Dusk in Parachilna Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

There are LOTS of Southern, Northern and Central Flinders Ranges things to do, but you can’t do everything in 7 days, right? So I’ve made it it easy for you with a week’s worth of some of my favourite activities and attractions in three great Flinders Ranges destinations.

You can thank me later.

Ready? GO!

HOW to get there:

Get started by driving to Quorn, 335 km (208 miles) north of Adelaide in the Southern Flinders Ranges. Pick whichever self-drive route from Adelaide which appeals to you the most.

View from the Dutchman's Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Dutchman’s Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Route 1 – Food and Wine trail via Clare: drive 143 km (89 miles) to Clare (detour via the Barossa Valley on the way if you like), then 193 km (120 miles) to Quorn via Laura, Wirrabara and Wilmington.
  • Route 2 – Country South Australia: drive 216 km (134 miles) to Jamestown via Clare, then 148 km (92 miles) to Quorn via Orroroo and Wilmington (detour into Alligator Gorge near Wilmington if you like). Yes, this way is a bit longer.
  • Route 3 – Coastal Ports (tautology alert!) via Port Augusta: drive 306 km (190 miles) to Port Augusta via Port Wakefield, Port Pirie and Port Germein (add a few extra km for detours into the ports), then 41 km (25.5 miles)to Quorn.

Be WARNED: If you’re sightseeing along the way, getting to Quorn will take nearly a full day. To make the most of the Flinders Ranges, I suggest starting your trip a day early!

Choosing THINGS to DO:

Select from my lists of things to do in each destination. Attractions and activities are split into MUST DO – my suggested top picks; and MORE Things to DO – alternative/extra activities and attractions.

And for the most pleasurable places to do your business, look out for my *Scenic Loo alerts!

Days 1 and 2: Quorn and Southern Flinders Ranges

STAY: Quorn Caravan Park (Campground, Cabins). A range of other accommodation is available in and around Quorn including Motel, Hotel, Bed and Breakfast, Cottages and Air BnB

MUST DO in Quorn:

Steam Train on Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Pichi Richi Railway – Half-day Steam Train tours leave from Quorn every weekend, so plan your trip accordingly and book ahead
  • Dutchman’s Stern – Hike the 10.5 km (6.5 mile) loop to the Dutchman’s Stern summit for spectacular views over the ranges and Gulf and fantastic Southern Flinders scenery
  • Buckaringa Gorge – Drive the ~80 km (50 miles) loop (some dirt roads) through classic Southern Flinders Ranges country and historic sites of interest to Buckaringa Gorge and Lookout

MORE Things to DO in Quorn:

  • HIKES: Devils Peak (1.3 km return); Warren Gorge (5.2 km loop – *Scenic Loo alert!); Mt Brown Summit Hike (15 km loop); Mt Brown Hike (11.6 km)
  • DRIVES: Alligator Gorge (via Wilmington – 55 km one way); Quorn/Port Augusta/Wilmington Loop (125 km loop, sealed roads)
  • QUORN: Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre; Heritage Walk (4.7 km); Quorn Native Flora Reserve (2 short walks); Cafés
MORE about the Quorn Region:
Kanyaka Ruins, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Days 3, 4, 5 – Wilpena Pound and Flinders Ranges National Park

On Day 3 drive 67 km (41.5 miles) to Hawker.

MUST DO en route to Hawker/Wilpena Pound:

  • Kanyaka Homestead and Death Rock – stop at these historic sites en route from Quorn to Hawker for insights into local colonial and indigenous heritage.
  • Wilpena Panorama – View this amazing 360º painting at Hawker’s Jeff Morgan Gallery of the summit view from Flinders Ranges highest point St Marys Peak (see trail notes below)

From Hawker, drive 52 km (32 miles) to Wilpena Pound.

View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

STAY: Rawnsley Park Station (Campground,Cabins, Units, Eco-Villas); or Wilpena Pound Resort (Campground, Standard and Deluxe Rooms, Safari Tents). Other options including Station Stays and campgrounds in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park are also available in the area.

MUST DO at Wilpena Pound:

  • St Mary’s Peak – This strenuous hike (14.6 – 21.5 km (9-13.5 miles) depending on route taken) is a Flinders Ranges showpiece. But if you viewed the panorama in Hawker (see above), you already what’s to be seen from the summit! (ps I haven’t done this hike either).
  • Wilkawillina Gorge – Drive the 34 km (mostly dirt) past the Bunkers. The gorge hike is 11.4 km (7 miles) one way – even if you don’t do the whole walk, the scenery is spectacular.
The Bunkers, Wilkawillina Gorge
Why The Bunkers ROCK! Wilkawillina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park
  • Brachina Gorge – drive about 50 km (31 miles, mostly dirt) via the Bunyeroo Valley and Gorge then along Brachina Gorge’s Geological Time Tunnel with interpretive signs and lookouts, walks and classic outback scenery. Return the same way, or via the ABC range and main road. (*Scenic Loo alert!)
  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – 10 and 13 km (6.2 and 8 miles) from Wilpena Pound. Visit them en route to Wilkawillina or Blinman.
  • Bridle Gap – Part of the Heysen Trail, this 18.8 km return hike crosses the Pound and offers great views from the Bumbinyunna Range on the other side. Much of the hike is flat and easy going and is an alternative to the much more difficult St Mary’s Peak trail.
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

MORE Things to DO at Wilpena Pound:

This is just a sampler of alternative activities – ask for more details at your accommodation.

  • HIKES: Hills Homestead (6.6 km); Wangara Lookout (7.8 km – incl Hills Homestead); Ferntree Falls (5.2 km); Pines Cave (5.4); Rawnsley Bluff (12.6 km)
  • HERITAGE: Old Wilpena Station, Sacred Canyon
  • DRIVE: Arkapena Track for Scenery and Lookouts, Moralana Scenic Drive
  • RIDE: Scenic Flights; Willow Springs Skytrek 4WD (self-drive and escorted tours); Mountain Biking on Mawson Trail
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
MORE from the Central Flinders Ranges:
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

Days 6 and 7 – Blinman and Angorichina

Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia

On Day 6 drive 59 km (36.5 miles) north to Blinman.

MUST DO en route to Blinman:

  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – stop if you haven’t already seen these (see above)
  • Perawurtina Cultural Heritage Site – Adnyamathanha rock paintings and engravings
  • Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China – Interesting rocky outcrops, and yet another Great Wall – this one Flinders Ranges Style!

MUST DO at Blinman:

  • Blinman Underground Experience – the Blinman Mines Tour comes with a Sound & Light show, expert local commentary and a fascinating dose of the area’s mining and social history

Drive 14 km (8.7 miles) from Blinman to Angorichina Village.

STAY: Angorichina Tourist Village (Campground, Cabins and *Scenic Loo alert!). Alternatively, there’s a range of accommodation in Blinman including Hotel, Cottages, Station Stays

MUST DO at Angorichina:

  • Blinman Pools Hike – Follow Parachilna and Blinman Creeks through sheer cliff faces, gorges and rocky creek beds for 10 km (return) to 1st pool, then 1 km (return) to 2nd pool.
  • Glass Gorge – A 43 km loop via Blinman through the picturesque Glass Gorge
  • Nuccaleena Historic Mine Site – add another 34 km onto the Glass Gorge loop and visit this remote mine. This leg is 4WD on rough, rugged roads and station tracks.
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

MORE Things to DO at Angorichina:

  • HIKE: Heysen Trail – this 1200 km (745 mile) hike starts in Parachilna Gorge. You won’t have time to walk the whole trail (!), but take a 6 km return hike into the Gorge along the track to experience this part of the ranges
  • RIDE: Mountain Biking, 4WD tours
  • BLINMAN: Blinman Walking Trail (3.5 km); Cafes and Gallery, Mine Office
MORE about Blinman and Angorichina
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges

More Adventures

So … now your 7 days are up and it’s time to go. But the adventure isn’t over yet.

Return to Adelaide by driving 18 km through Parachilna Gorge to Parachilna (*Scenic Loo alert!)for a Feral Mixed Grill and a Fargher Lager!

A great end to a great week.

But the good news is that if you’re not yet ready to end your holiday, you can check out the things to do in Port Augusta on your way back!!

Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Flinders Ranges Fast Facts:

  • WHAT: The Flinders Ranges is a 430 km long region of mountain ranges in the South Australian Outback. It includes the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park; Vulkathanha-Gammon Ranges National Park, Mt Remarkable National Park, several Conservation Parks, many natural attractions and numerous sites of historic and cultural significance.
  • WHERE: The Flinders Ranges are north of Adelaide. From Adelaide, it’s 335 km (208 miles) to Quorn, 400 km (248 miles) to Hawker and 508 km (315 miles) to Blinman.
  • WHEN: The best time to go is from April to October. Temperatures in the hotter months of November to March can range from 30º – 45º C (86-113 F)
  • DRIVING: Self-drive is the easiest way to get around. PLEASE NOTE: some of the roads and trails described in this post require 4WD or high clearance. Please check road conditions and vehicle suitability before you drive.
  • FACILITIES:  Meals, groceries and other supplies are available in smaller centres such as Wilpena Pound Resort, Rawnsley Park Station, Blinman and Angorichina Tourist Village. Fuel is available at Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena Pound, Angorichina Tourist Village and Parachilna.

Want MORE?

View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

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The Dutchman’s Stern Hike! Southern Flinders Ranges, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/walk-the-dutchmans-stern-southern-flinders-ranges-sa/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/walk-the-dutchmans-stern-southern-flinders-ranges-sa/#comments Wed, 28 Jun 2017 22:35:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=274 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The Dutchman’s Stern Hike ‘Visit the Crazy Horse – but not on Monday’ the log book entry read. Why, with the magnificent 360° panorama from the summit of the Dutchman’s Stern hike surrounding them, would two German hikers be reminded of an Adelaide nightclub 300 kilometres away? (Note to self – what IS the Monday deal at the Crazy Horse,[...]

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View from the Dutchman's Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Dutchman’s Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The Dutchman’s Stern Hike

‘Visit the Crazy Horse – but not on Monday’ the log book entry read.

Why, with the magnificent 360° panorama from the summit of the Dutchman’s Stern hike surrounding them, would two German hikers be reminded of an Adelaide nightclub 300 kilometres away? (Note to self – what IS the Monday deal at the Crazy Horse, anyway??)

Devils Peak and Mt Brown from Dutchman's Stern Hike, South Australia
Devils Peak and Mt Brown from Dutchman’s Stern Hike, South Australia

Good question.

Did they have ANYTHING in common?

Surprisingly, YES.

The Dutchman’s Stern has dominated its small Conservation Park only marginally longer than the Crazy Horse has dominated the west end of Adelaide’s Hindley Street.

And that’s the only connection I can find between the two!!

When I first climbed the Dutchman’s Stern in 2010, reading the summit log book was almost worth the effort of completing the 10.5 km circuit. A pot-pourri of names, dates, weather reports, wildlife sightings, and surprisingly high number of countries of origin was supplemented by a range of comments both comical and asinine.  I’ll let you decide into which category the one above falls!

Another Dutchman's Stern Summit View, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Another Dutchman’s Stern Summit View, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

But disappointingly, 7 years later on my 2nd ascent, the log book comments had lost that edgy zing. You know, the one that made you wonder what a hiker was thinking to record the exact time it’d taken to reach the summit.  I mean, I could just write in a random time too, right?

In fact, the log book made for such dull reading, I was forced to admire the view instead.  The endless panorama of rolling mountains, rocks and totally deadly-looking roads was a LOT more gripping than the log book.  And it’s not every day you see a couple of Wedge-tailed Eagles somersaulting through the air at eye level.  Photos?  Sorry, no.  Too busy watching. You’ll just have to make the climb and see them for yourself!

Dutchman's Stern Summit Hike! South Australia
Yet another view from the Dutchman’s Stern Summit Hike! South Australia

But even back in 2010 a log book full of intriguing oddities wasn’t enough to detract from the jaw-dropping view.  It’s almost a complete 360º.  From the west, there’s Port Augusta and the top of Spencer Gulf; Devil’s Peak, Mt Brown and the Richman Valley further south; Quorn (nearest town) and Wilpena Pound, the Elder and Yappala Ranges to the north.

Apparently, both times we attempted the Dutchman’s Stern Hike we got lucky – according to the log book the view has been blocked by fog more than once! I would have been seriously peeved to climb steadily for 4.2 km to see NOTHING!

Especially when if you CAN see something, it’s such a spectacular, stupendous something!!

Grass Trees and Rock Ledges, Dutchman's Stern Hike, South Australia
Grass Trees and Rock Ledges, Dutchman’s Stern Hike, South Australia

The medium-grade hike to the 820m high Dutchman’s Stern summit isn’t so much difficult as lengthy.

Quorn Wattle and Salvation Jane, Dutchman's Stern
Quorn Wattle and Salvation Jane

Unsurprisingly for a hike up a mountain, it’s a relentless 4.2 km climb to the summit.  And if I say it’s not a hard walk, you can depend upon it – I’ve got a well-documented aversion to excessive energy expenditure!

But it would’ve been too embarrassing to record the exact length of time it took to reach the summit in the log book.

So no one will EVER know how long it took us – either in 2010 or in 2017!

Let’s just say it’d take some doing to knock me off my ‘world’s slowest hiker’ pedestal!

On our first ascent, Pilchard and I meandered the ever upwardly zig-zagging trail through low grassland, purple with introduced weed Salvation Jane (Echium plantagineum) and dotted with the endemic Quorn Wattle (Acacia quornensis).

Kangaroos on the Dutchman's Stern Hike, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Kangaroos on the Dutchman’s Stern Hike, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Although the 2017 climb followed the same route, it was too early for those flowers, but we got a LOT of grass trees instead.

And a LOT of kangaroos in the grasslands.

I’m not sure what’s better!

The trail then passes through Sugar Gum woodland, before reaching the spring wildflower extravaganza (still flowering in October 2010) of the heathland.

Red on the Dutchman's Stern hiking trail, South Australia
Red on the Dutchman’s Stern hiking trail, South Australia

Finally, it rises through the more sparsely vegetated rocky outcrops towards the summit.

And although there weren’t quite as many wildflowers on our June 2017 climb, there WERE lots of grass trees, along with bright red Heath and a few small pink orchids.  Apart from a few landslips, the track was almost exactly as we remembered.  And it was nice to know that the passage of 7 years hadn’t slowed us down.

Much.

Bluff and plain on return hike from Dutchman's Stern, South Australia
Bluff and plain on return hike from Dutchman’s Stern, South Australia

Even the scary bit (if walking a dodgy narrow track along a steep hillside with the ever-present danger of plunging down a gorge gives you the cold shivers like it does me) was still doable – just as well, because it’d be a long way back round the other way if I’d lost my nerve.

Kangaroo at rest, Dutchman's Stern Hike, Flinders Ranges
Kangaroo at rest, Dutchman’s Stern Hike, Flinders Ranges

After climbing the 4.2 km to the summit and sighting the resident Peregrine Falcon – no sign of the eagles in 2010 – we chose the longer 10.5 km loop for our return.

Take the shorter 8.4km return route if you don’t mind retracing your steps.  The 6.3 km return route we selected passes  through Drooping Sheoak and Sugar Gum woodlands into the steep, scary, scree-lined slopes of Stony Creek gorge before returning to the trail head.

And if birding’s your thing, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren’s (subspecies pedleri) appearance ALMOST made up for the Gilbert’s Whistler absence in 2010 – but we went one better in 2017 and saw them both.

Just between us though, choosing between a summit view free of fog and a rare bird sighting is a no brainer.  I’d go for the view any day!

Just don’t tell birdo Pilchard!!

This post about the Dutchman’s Stern Hike first appeared on my blog in 2010 after our first ascent.   In 2017 we climbed it again so I’ve updated and re-posted the original to include updated information along with our most recent experience. AND new photos!

Late Afternoon at the end of the Dutchman's Stern Summit Hike, South Australia
Late Afternoon – and the end of the Dutchman’s Stern Summit Hike, South Australia

The Dutchman’s Stern Hike, just one of several walks in this former pastoral lease and also intersected by the Heysen trail, is an awesome way to experience this part of the Flinders Ranges.  It was just as good the second time around 7 years later.  Check it out!

Want MORE?

View from the Dutchman's Stern via Quorn, South Australia
2010 View from the Dutchman’s Stern via Quorn, South Australia

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Explore Corner Country! Tibooburra, Milparinka and Cameron Corner, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/03/corner-country-tibooburra-milparinka-cameron-corner/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/03/corner-country-tibooburra-milparinka-cameron-corner/#comments Sun, 19 Mar 2017 13:48:16 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5301 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Our Corner Country Adventure Begins! Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list. But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at[...]

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Our Corner Country Adventure Begins!

Dingo Fence at Cameron Corner, New South Wales
Dingo Fence at Cameron Corner, New South Wales

Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list.

But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at the same time!**

Anyway, it was winter – or what passes for winter downunder – so the heat thing wouldn’t be a problem. We’d leave the camper trailer behind while we sussed out the rugged roads. And I was getting itchy feet after being home for a couple of months. So what the heck.

‘Let’s go,’ I told Pilchard.

Just as well.

Or I’d have missed out BIG time …

… On the thrill of having a tyre gutted by a totally new and unexpected object. On being marooned in the Outback. And on standing in 3 States all at once!!

Yes, I have a low amusement threshhold. AND I’m getting ahead of myself …

Chances are, anyone heading north on the Silver City Highway from Broken Hill en route to Innamincka, Birdsville, Coopers Creek or the Diamantina chances has passed through, or even stayed overnight in Tibooburra.

But was Tibooburra a road-trip destination in itself?

We had a week to spare, and were about to discover exactly what to see and do in Corner Country – the remote and rugged north-west corner of New South Wales!

Broken Hill to Tibooburra: Getting There is half the FUN!

Emus on the Silver City Highway, New South Wales
Emus on the Silver City Highway, New South Wales

Heading north after leaving Broken Hill – aka the Silver City – the road to Tibooburra – aka the Silver City Highway – winds through the Barrier Ranges, including 30+ km of extensive roadworks* just out of Broken Hill where bitumen was being laid. Until you pass through Fowlers Gap and suddenly it doesn’t.

It’s a great place to play ‘spot the emu’.

The Packsaddle Roadhouse, Silver City Highway, New South Wales
The Packsaddle Roadhouse, Silver City Highway, New South Wales

Half-way is the Packsaddle Roadhouse, with the only fuel, food and accommodation en route – perfect for travellers stranded by road closures after heavy rain. Over lunch and a trip to the Scenic Loo, we watched the Packsaddle Cat score his (or maybe her) body weight in table scraps by shameless begging in the outdoor dining area.

About 50 km further north we stopped to watch the wildlife on Cobham Lake, an Outback oasis overlooked by the lonely grave of an Eliza Kennedy with an odd epitaph ‘For charity covereth a multitude of sins’.

If we’d brought the camper trailer, this spot would have been the end of the journey for the day because camping on the shores of the lake would’ve been AMAZING!

Cobham Lake with Emus, Silver City Highway
Cobham Lake with Emus, Silver City Highway

Between Packsaddle and Tibooburra, the stretches of gravel road became longer and more frequent. You’d have to be MAD to road-trip these roads without investing in some kind of roadside automobile assistance! IMHO!!

300 km (180 miles) and 4 hours after leaving Broken Hill, we arrived in Tibooburra.

And how it got its name from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘heap of rocks’ or why it was once known as ‘The Granites’ really ISN’T one of life’s great mysteries!

A Ghost Town, A Glen and a Gutful of Gibbers!

For an almost-ghost-town, there’s a lot going on in Milparinka with its historic working pub and heritage precinct just 40 km (24 miles) from Tibooburra.

Alfred Hotel, Milparinka, New South Wales
Alfred Hotel, Milparinka, New South Wales

Cars came and went on the dirt tracks, aka ‘roads’. The family running the historic Albert Hotel served coffee, drinks and meals. And the volunteers who keep Milparinka’s restored buildings, museums and open air displays open from March to October dispensed information, advice and directions.

This, a campground, and best of all – a scenic public loo – are what’s left of Milparinka after the Albert Goldfields’ gold ran out back during the Depression. There wasn’t enough remaining business to support both towns, so although Milparinka had the water, Tibooburra got the trade.

Depot Glen, via Milparinka, New South Wales
Depot Glen, via Milparinka, New South Wales

From Milparinka, we headed north-west over a bizarre moonscape of albino gibbers, a fancy name for the milky quartz rocks all over the ground and the closest we’d get to seeing snow in this Aussie winter! Following the banks of Preservation Creek shaded by massive River Red Gums we finally came to Depot Glen, a string of the only permanent waterholes in the district.

Famous Aussie explorer Captain Charles Sturt, on an expedition hoping to discover the mythical waterways of Central Australia, waited out a dry spell here, from January, hottest time of the year, to June when rains finally fell.

So confident were they of finding an inland sea, they’d brought a boat and a couple of sailors across the same arid Outback country we’d followed since leaving Broken Hill. Instead of the waterways they expected, the men spent 6 months stranded by drought building a cairn of rocks several kilometres away on Mt Poole, named for the only expedition member to die at Depot Glen.

There's a car down there! View from Mt Poole, via Tibooburra, New South Wales
There’s a car down there! View from Mt Poole, via Tibooburra, New South Wales

Too gutless to attack the pile of ankle-turning gibbers aka Mt Poole, we didn’t reach the summit. But we climbed high enough to look out over the unforgiving, relentlessly gibber-laden plains stretching to the horizon, and imagine the hardships suffered by this lonely band.

Marooned! In more ways than one …

Marooned! Road Closure signs at Tibooburra, New South Wales
Marooned! Road Closure signs at Tibooburra, New South Wales

Marooned #1: 4 mm (0.015 inches) of rain isn’t all that much, really. But after a wet winter, this overnight downpour was enough to officially close ALL roads entering and leaving Tibooburra.

Marooned #2: We couldn’t have taken a drive anyway. After a day following the explorers along rough, rugged gibber trails we had a flat! We’d never been brought to a standstill by a small piece of bone before – but it’s apparently the most common cause of flat tyres in these parts.

That left us with only one option that day – exploring Tibooburra on foot!

10 Things to Do in Tibooburra

Whether it’s rain, a piece of bone or something else making you take a Tibooburra break, there’s a lot to see and do in and a short distance around the township.

Granite Boulders around Tibooburra, New South Wales
Granite Boulders around Tibooburra, New South Wales

Here’s a few suggestions:

  1. Take a walk … locals say the best time to go prospecting for gold in the main street is after rain!
  2. Grab a brochure about Tibooburra and take the Tibooburra Heritage Walk
  3. Go to the National Parks & Wildlife Visitor Centre for information about the area, maps and track notes for Sturt National Park
  4. See relics from the past at the Courthouse Museum
  5. Check out a replica of Sturt’s boat and other historic memorabilia at Pioneer Park
  6. Explore the Granite Rock piles behind the caravan park. And everywhere else!
  7. Drive – or walk – to Sunset Hill Lookout for great views across the town and surrounds
  8. Take a short drive out to Golden Gully for gold mining heritage memorabilia
  9. Go hunting for South Australia’s floral emblem, the Sturt’s Desert Pea! We found some behind TJ’s roadhouse growing in the gravel
  10. If all else fails, visit the pubs! But not just for a drink – the Two Storey has murals by famous Aussie artists, including Clifton Pugh!

Sturt National Park

Wild, remote and rugged, Sturt National Park is 340,000 hectares of sandhills; gibber plains; jump-ups and mesas; flood plains; gorges; creeks; and what remains of some of the pastoral properties in the area.

Inside the old Woolshed, Mt Wood Station, Sturt National Park
Inside the old Woolshed, Mt Wood Station, Sturt National Park

The Silver City Highway runs right through the park but drive the loop trails just out of Tibooburra for the best bits. Explore the old pastoral properties, look out over the flood plains and climb Mt Wood (4 km return) on the 100 km (~60 mile) Gorge Loop Trail. Or drive through a spectacular eroded landscape with a magnificent lookout, or walk to the Jump-ups (3.5 km return) on the Jumpup Loop Trail.

Or if you’re in a 4WD, take the imaginatively named Middle Road through the varied landscape in the middle of the park – an alternative route to Cameron Corner.

Remember those interpretive brochures you picked up from the National Parks office in Tibooburra? This is where they’ll come in VERY handy!

Jump-up Loop Landscape, Sturt National Park, via Tibooburra, New South Wales
Jump-up Loop Landscape, Sturt National Park, via Tibooburra, New South Wales

And check the road conditions before you leave.

Three States, One HOT Place: Cameron Corner

‘Where’s the road?’ Pilchard shouted as we followed the track down an incline and onto a sea of red clay. Half way to Cameron Corner, it could’ve been a nasty Marooned #3 if the Waka Claypan had still been a clay-slick after the rain!

Crossing the Waka Claypan en route to Cameron Corner from Tibooburra, NSW
Crossing the Waka Claypan en route to Cameron Corner from Tibooburra, NSW

Luckily, a couple of days of fine, warm weather had dried out the road, and 140 km (84 miles) west of Tibooburra the friendly staff at the iconic Cameron Corner Roadhouse efficiently dealt with a steady stream of road-trippers looking for photos, souvenirs, drinks, meals and fuel.

It’s hungry work standing in 3 states at once 😀

Cameron Corner - where South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales meet!
Cameron Corner – where South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales meet!

If we’d had the camper trailer, we SO would have stayed in the Cameron Corner Campground for a round of golf on the nine hole Tri-State golf course – with three holes in each of South Australia, New South Wales and Queensland.

And if we’d had the camper trailer, we’d have headed to Queensland or South Australia instead of back through the dingo fence into New South Wales where we took the Middle Road back to Tibooburra through Sturt National Park.

But, for now, we’d answered that all-important question. Yes, Tibooburra IS a worthy destination in its own right!!

The next day we headed back down the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill.

And not a moment too soon.

Because that night 56 mm (2.2 inches) of rain fell in Tibooburra!

Tibooburra Sunset with Kangaroo, New South Wales
Tibooburra Sunset with Kangaroo, New South Wales

Even if you’re just passing through Tibooburra to Queensland, South Australia or other parts of New South Wales, why not make some of these Corner Country attractions and drives part of your road trip? Or tie your trip in with an event like the Packsaddle Gymkhana, the Tibooburra Festival, the Milparinka Gymkhana and the Tibooburra Rodeo for an even more awesome Outback experience!

Fast Facts:

Sturts Desert Pea
Sturts Desert Pea

WHERE:

  • Tibooburra is 330 km north of Broken Hill on the Silver City Highway.
  • Milparinka is 40 km south of Tibooburra.
  • Cameron Corner is 140 km north-west of Tibooburra.

PLEASE CHECK ROAD CONDITIONS BEFORE YOU TRAVEL!

STAY:

  • Tibooburra has Hotels, Motels, a Caravan Park and campgrounds around the town.
  • Sturt National Park has several campgrounds.
  • Milparinka has a campground and accommodation at the Albert Hotel.
  • Cameron Corner has a campground and accommodation.

We stayed at the Granites Motel & Caravan Park in Tibooburra.

Small piece of bone = FLAT TYRE!

EAT:

  • TJs Roadhouse and the Corner Country Store have meals and takeaway.
  • The Family Hotel and Two Storey Hotel have meals.

Want MORE?

* On our trip in August 2016. Check road conditions before you leave.

** Poeppels Corner,  where Western Australia, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet is 2 States + 1 Territory!

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14 TOP Secret Aussie Hot Spots https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/12/14-top-secret-aussie-hot-spots/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/12/14-top-secret-aussie-hot-spots/#comments Wed, 14 Dec 2016 07:38:56 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4883 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’ve been a BIG fan of maps since forever.  So when Hema Maps wanted to collaborate on a post about Australia’s hidden hot spots, I agreed straight away!  Below is the Hema Maps selection of 7 AMAZING almost-secret Aussie Hot Spots – even I haven’t been to some of them – then take the link at the end of the post to find[...]

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’ve been a BIG fan of maps since forever.  So when Hema Maps wanted to collaborate on a post about Australia’s hidden hot spots, I agreed straight away!  Below is the Hema Maps selection of 7 AMAZING almost-secret Aussie Hot Spots – even I haven’t been to some of them – then take the link at the end of the post to find MY 7 secrets on their website!

Take it away, Hema Maps!!

Every Australian state has popular hotspots which grab all the plaudits, but to the side or within these places are hidden gems that manage to fly under the radar of most off-road travellers.

Jacksons Crossing Beach, Snowy River*
Jacksons Crossing Beach, Snowy River, Victoria*

1.  Jacksons Crossing, High Country Victoria

High Country Victoria is known for its heights – ridge-riding 4WD tracks and expansive mountain vistas are the norm – but you need to look down low to find one of the region’s most memorable spots.

Jacksons Crossing is a bush camp off Varneys Track, northeast of Buchan, which is situated next to the iconic Snowy River. The trip in is a classic High Country drive, and the reward for your efforts is a campsite that ticks all possible boxes with minimal fuss. A beach unexpectedly appears out of nowhere in amongst this alpine setting, next to a campsite that’s nestled between rising alpine ranges on either side. Offering plenty of room in picturesque natural surrounds, Jacksons Crossing combines classic High Country themes in a family-friendly environment. Keep in mind that private property is nearby, so be sure not to stray into areas you shouldn’t.

Gawler Ranges National Park Organ Pipes, South Australia*
Gawler Ranges National Park Organ Pipes, South Australia*

2. Organ Pipes – Gawler Ranges National Park, SA

The Flinders may be the most famous ranges in South Australia, but the Gawler Ranges rolling Outback hills are home to something uniquely spectacular. Called Organ Pipes (and named so for obvious reasons), these fascinating columns were pushed upwards from beneath the earth over 1500 million years ago due to volcanic activity, creating eerily consistent formations that make the Gawler Ranges a must-visit Outback destination. The park is also renowned for its rich red tracks and rolling hills, which make for a sensational backdrop as you drive through this unique region.

Old Glen Innes Road Tunnel, New South Wales*
Old Glen Innes Road Tunnel, New South Wales*

3. Old Glen Innes Road, NSW

This charming drive through rural New South Wales takes you back in time as you roll through ghost towns slowly being absorbed by verdant hinterland. A town called Dalmorton sprung up in the 1860s after gold fever took over the region, which supported a population of 5,000 in the surrounding area during its peak.

Remnants of this forgotten past is evidenced by old mine shafts that dot the hills along the journey, in addition to dilapidated buildings and a lonely tennis court in the middle of nowhere. Along the drive is a tunnel – supposedly built using civilian labour in the 1880s – that bores through the side of the mountain on which the road climbs. Like a self-driving museum in natural surrounds, the Old Glen Innes Road is an enthralling journey in time and space.

Gnylmarung Retreat, Cape Leveque, Western Australia*
Gnylmarung Retreat, Cape Leveque, Western Australia*

4. Gnylmarung Retreat, WA

Newcomers to Cape Leveque in Western Australia’s Kimberley region can be forgiven for going with the masses to Kooljaman in the north, but for a more secluded coastal camping experience, it’s hard to go past Gnylmarung Retreat. Situated on the western side of the cape above Beagle Bay, everything about Gnylmarung is spacious and blissfully basic, with other campers only spotted occasionally as they make their way to the outdoor shower or down to the beach to watch the sun set.

If you can resist the pull of the more recognised camping areas around Cape Leveque, you’re guaranteed to find tranquillity to go with your Kimberley coastline at Gnylmarung – sans backpackers and other crowd contributors.

Redbank Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Northern Territory*
Redbank Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Northern Territory*

5. Redbank Gorge, NT

Central Australia is a hotbed of stunning natural beauty of jaw-dropping proportions, much of which is well-known to any Outback traveller worth their salt. Amongst iconic places like Uluru and Palm Valley, Redbank Gorge quietly amazes visitors who venture to the western end of the West MacDonnell Ranges, its unassuming appearance upon entry giving way to something much more impressive.

The camping around Redbank Gorge offers basic facilities, with everything appearing to be business as usual until you walk behind the campsite to find a view to rival any lookout. You can then head deeper into the ranges to get to Redbank Gorge itself, or to take on Section 12 of the Larapinta Trail to experience central Australia’s most spectacular walking trail. While it may be on the fringes of the West Macs, Redbank Gorge is front and centre as one of the Red Centre’s best hidden gems.

The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania*
The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania*

6. Bruny Island, TAS

Australian mainlanders may struggle to see the sense in going to an island to reach yet another island, but once you reach Bruny, any wondering will end. Aside from the artisanal cheese, chocolate, seafood and wine on offer, Bruny offers a wilder side for travellers to experience.

The 100km-long island is fringed by beaches and cliffs, with multiple camping areas available in the south, including the 4WD-only Cloudy Bay Corner Beach Camping Area. There are plenty of walks available all over the island, which are often the best way to see wildlife – 13 of Tassie’s 14 endemic birds can be found on Bruny – such as the fairy penguins which nest near The Neck, a skinny strip of beach which links North and South Bruny Island.

Booloumba Creek, Conondale, Queensland*
Booloumba Creek, Conondale National Park, Queensland*

7. Conondale National Park, QLD

South East Queensland’s Scenic Rim is a volcanic remnant that is home to lush rainforest and a multitude of national parks for campers, hikers and four-wheel drivers to explore. While many travellers are drawn to the Scenic Rim’s southwest icons – Main Range and Lamington national parks – higher north is the Scenic Rim’s quiet achiever: Conondale National Park.

Close to the refreshingly quaint towns of Kenilworth and Maleny, Conondale National Park presides over an abundance of attractions and 4WD tracks in a relatively small area. Entry to the park begins with a creek crossing, after which the track cuts into rainforest with occasional steep gradients and excellent views from breaks in the tree line.

Within the park itself are four camping areas with access to stunning Booloumba Creek, as well as entry to the Queensland government’s Conondale Range Great Walk – a 56km hike through cloistered rainforest and open scrubland that takes four days to complete. A short drive from the camping areas is a lookout, while also along the loop drive is a lookout and a handful of rest areas at which you can relax.

Old Glen Innes Road Bridge, NSW*
Old Glen Innes Road Bridge, NSW*

Well, that’s 7 secret travel spots provided by Hema Maps. You were promised 14! Now view MY 7 top secret Australian travel spots hosted at Hema Maps.

Hema Maps are adventure and navigation experts who produce a range of navigation solutions that will help you to find your own secret spots!

PS Having trouble finding these secret hot spots? Why not check out the Hema Maps Hema HX1 Navigator!  How good is it?  Then check out the Red’s Australia HX1 Navigator Review?!

*  Photos and text courtesy of Hema Maps

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My TOP 10 Favourite things to do on Norfolk Island https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/11/10-things-to-do-on-norfolk-island/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/11/10-things-to-do-on-norfolk-island/#comments Wed, 23 Nov 2016 11:24:06 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4838 NEW from RedzAustralia!

A week on Norfolk Island should give you just enough time to realise that a week on Norfolk Island isn’t nearly long enough. Whether or not you’re an amateur photographer/twitcher duo like us, on the prowl for amazing natural attractions, unusual birds (feathered) and scenic loos in exotic locations, chances are you won’t be able to fit it all in.[...]

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Norfolk Island sunset
Norfolk Island sunset

A week on Norfolk Island should give you just enough time to realise that a week on Norfolk Island isn’t nearly long enough.

Whether or not you’re an amateur photographer/twitcher duo like us, on the prowl for amazing natural attractions, unusual birds (feathered) and scenic loos in exotic locations, chances are you won’t be able to fit it all in.

So instead of busting a gut trying to see and do absolutely everything, try a few of my 10 favourite things to do and leave yourself time for some R&R!

Cemetery Bay, Norfolk Island
Cemetery Bay, Norfolk Island

1 See the Island the Local way

I might not have been the youngest person on our island orientation tour – but my relative youth sure made it easy for me to a) hear what the driver was saying; b) identify and board the correct tour bus when more than one was parked at

St Barnabas Chapel Bell Tower, Norfolk Island
St Barnabas Chapel Bell Tower, Norfolk Island

the same location; and c) hit the lead in the race for the afternoon tea scones with Guava Jelly and cream.

Score!

The half-day tour came free with our booking, but I’d gladly have paid for what turned out to be an excellent introduction to the island’s history, points of interest, local characters and the challenges faced by a smallish group of people living on an isolated hunk of rock in the middle of nowhere.

More specifically 1770 km (1100 miles) north-east of Sydney, 1448 km (900 miles) east of Brisbane; 1126 km (700 miles) north-west of Auckland and 804 km (500 miles) south-east of Noumea.

Cemetery, Norfolk Island
Cemetery, Norfolk Island

Starting at the main settlement of Burnt Pine, we took in a superb cross-section of attractions – lookouts, convict ruins, jetties, rugged cliffs, a battleship, an old chapel, whaling station – all served up with spectacular scenery, and a teaser for things we wanted to see in more detail at our leisure.

How I got lucky!

But afternoon tea was where I REALLY got lucky. Because that’s where I found ‘Ask a Silly Question’, a booklet full of hilariously dumb questions tourists have asked local tour guide Max Hobbins.

Such as: ‘Is the Island surrounded by water?’ and ‘What colour is the native Green Parrot?’ and ‘If the Island has such a low crime rate, why do you have electric fences?’

Five minutes later I purchased it, eyes streaming with tears of laughter. And in another blinding piece of luck, the checkout operator introduced me to the author, there on another tour, and I asked him to sign my book.

Score!

I just hope none of the questions I asked him will make it into a future edition!

2 Norfolk’s TOP Spot

Getting to the top of Norfolk Island’s second-highest mountain isn’t too taxing. Just hop in the car and follow the signs to Mount Pitt – 318 metres above sea level, and with an almost 360° panorama from the lookout.

Mt Pitt Lookout, Norfolk Island
Mt Pitt Lookout, Norfolk Island

When the supply ship Sirius ran aground offshore many years ago depriving the islanders of food, the easy-to-catch petrels nesting on the Mt Pitt summit saved the colony from starvation with an estimated 170,000 killed and eaten. Unsurprisingly, despite being named ‘Providence Petrel’, the birds no longer return to their old nesting spot.

So the birds-eye view from Mt Pitt across to Phillip Island where the petrels have started to make a come-back in nesting season is likely to be the closest you’ll come to seeing one.

Getting to the island’s highest point takes a bit more effort. Follow the ups and downs of the Summit track through lush rainforest full of more endemic bird species like Pacific Robin, and past World War II memorabilia. After what I’m told is only 500 metres (although it seemed a lot more to me!) you’ll reach the Mount Bates summit, at 319 metres above sea level, the highest point on the island.

But only if you think it’s worth gaining a metre in altitude and losing a lot of the view!

3 Hit Bedrock

View from Bedrock Cafe, Norfolk Island
View up the coast from Bedrock Cafe, Norfolk Island

In an island full of extraordinary experiences, stunning scenery and fabulous food, the Bedrock Café enthusiastically serves up all three.

Perched on the edge of the Duncombe Bay cliffs with several hundred kilometres of ocean in front of you, the café setting is, for my money, one of Australia’s most spectacular dining locations.

And if you’re a keen birdo, it’s really the only place to be if you want to fit in a Great Frigate bird sighting or two between courses. Where even great food like the egg curry and coconut beef; followed by pear cake and passionfruit tart we had wasn’t distracting enough to prevent binocular and camera overuse syndrome …

4 Green Parrot: one of the World’s Rarest Birds

I SO get that birding isn’t for everyone.

But Norfolk Island’s prime position in the middle of freakin’ nowhere makes it a top birding site for sea birds not normally seen on the mainland AND birds not seen anywhere else on earth!

Green Parrot, Norfolk Island
Green Parrot, Norfolk Island

Even if you’re not a birder, the dense rainforest, scenic lookouts and ever-present Norfolk Island Pines are so spectacular it’s a pleasure just to hike one or more of the many trails in the Botanic Gardens and National Park, covering a third of the island.

Walk the park and you’re right in the rare Green Parrot’s habitat. In the early 1990’s only 4 breeding females remained until an intervention program increased the number to about 200-400 thus saving them from extinction AND ensuring a steady stream of twitchers* visit the island.

Camouflage!

If you think it’d be easy to spot a bright green bird with accents of vivid red and blue in the forest, then think again. Remember – there’s only a few hundred scattered throughout a pretty big park full of green vegetation studded with the red palm berries and cherry guavas the parrots like to eat so spotting one can be challenging.

After a couple of unsuccessful searches during the week, we gave it one last go on the day we departed, just before we had to leave for the airport.

Turns out all we had to do was drive up the road from our accommodation to the Palm Circuit Track trailhead, where we spotted one nonchalantly eating guavas. Too easy!!

5 Captain Cook’s Lookout

The surf thundered and crashed, boiling around the jagged rocks of the Northern Islets far below. Sea birds soared through the haze, thick with salt spray as the surf pounded the rocky shore at the base of the towering cliffs.

Northern Islets from Captain Cook Lookout, Norfolk Island
Northern Islets from Captain Cook Lookout, Norfolk Island

Call me a lily-livered acrophobic** landlubber, but you’d have to be mad to try to come ashore right here. Wouldn’t you??

So what does that make Captain James Cook? According to his ship’s log, he’s thought to have landed somewhere along the stretch of coastline below my vantage point when he ‘discovered’ the island back in 1774.

But mad or not, the Captain Cook Lookout (as it is now known) is now a fine place to have a picnic, or just hang out and admire the view (including a FINE scenic loo!), spot the sea birds and take a hike along the Bridle Track.

6 A Hundred Acres of Wood

White Tern Chick, Norfolk Island
White Tern Chick, Norfolk Island

It’s just as well I thought the ancient Moreton Bay Fig trees lining the road and entrance to the Hundred Acre Reserve deserved more than a quick drive-through. If I hadn’t walked back for yet another tedious photo session (by standards other than mine) I wouldn’t have seen the tiny White Tern chick perched at knee height on the buttress.

I can’t guarantee you’ll get lucky at the fig trees like I did. But stop there anyway to take the track through an almost endless forest of Norfolk Island Pines to Rocky Point, where there’s a better than average chance you WILL get lucky!

With killer coastal scenery, sunsets and sea bird sightings, of course.

7 DOWN to Anson Bay Beach

If not for the track zig-zagging down the sheer cliffs to the stunningly scenic sliver of sub-tropical sand below, Anson Bay Beach would likely have been totally deserted.

While the more popular Emily Bay with its easy-access road, swimming pontoon and scenic loo gets more people AND more press, Anson Bay Beach is a picturesque paradise.  Annd another fine opportunity to practice managing your photo overuse syndrome!

I already had a full blown case of it by Day 3.

Anson Bay Beach Surfers, Norfolk Island
Anson Bay Beach Surfers, Norfolk Island

Anywhere else, it’d be tempting to pack a picnic, a boogie board, swimmers and fishing gear for a big day out. But the thought of the LOOOOOOONG long climb back up the cliff road at the end of the day is an instant crash course in how to pare back those ‘necessities’ to just a swimsuit.

And a camera!

8 One Helluva History – the Museum Crawl

Unbelievably, the public amenities weren’t listed as items of interest in the 53 numbered museums, buildings, sites and artefacts in the Australian Convict Sites visitor guide to the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale area.

Long Boat, Norfolk Island
Long Boat, Norfolk Island

It must have been because of the area’s World Heritage status. Because it’d be just as unbelievable that I’d be the only one interested in potential Scenic Public loos***. Wouldn’t it?

But whether or not you include the facilities, the site represents all four very different periods of Norfolk settlement. It’s a fascinating journey starting with the Polynesians way, WAY back to 1150 CE followed by two separate periods of Convict habitation between 1788-1855. Then the present day community was formed when a group of Pitcairn Islanders, descendants of the Bounty mutineers, resettled here in 1856.

The loos are just a bonus!

9 360° of Art and History

Don’t get me wrong.

Nothing does it for me quite like travelling. BUT … every now and then, after a few days of relentless exploring and experiencing and excitement, it all gets a bit too exhausting.

But taking a day off to just do nothing doesn’t work for me either.

And that’s when I wish for a bite-sized package of cultural, natural and historic experiences to do me for the day. Kind of like a LITE version.

Norfolk LITE!

Luckily, Norfolk’s LITE version is an easy-access mixture of history, art and culture wrapped up in a stunning and remarkably detailed 360° painting – the Cyclorama – depicting key points in the island’s history.

Weirdly, the ‘no photos’ rule didn’t bother me a bit! I can’t recall the last time I wandered around without considering photo angles and lighting, or wishing my photographic skills were a bit more advanced!

So here’s a completely gratuitous photo of something else!

The Sirius, moored off Slaughter Bay, Norfolk Island
The Sirius, moored off Slaughter Bay, Norfolk Island

10 Selwyn Cottage

Booking a place to stay sight unseen can be risky when you haven’t even seen your destination, let alone the accommodation options. But it turns out we didn’t have to worry.

Because with Selwyn Cottage we REALLY lucked out!

Selwyn Cottage Garden, Norfolk Island
Selwyn Cottage Garden, Norfolk Island

With a private garden so fine we could have spent the whole week there, this standalone cottage in a quiet suburb close to the National Park and township was the perfect retreat after a hard day on the sightseeing trail.

Factor in the facilities, island hospitality and personal touches that made Selwyn Cottage a home away from home, and this family run haven will be where we stay when we return! Even if we have to plan our holiday around it 😀

And here’s an extra one for nothing!  You’re welcome …

11 The one that got away – Philip Island

I really Really REALLY wanted to go to Philip Island.

The ‘Uluru of the South Pacific’, as it is described in a tourist brochure, is six kilometres south of Norfolk Island with a distinctive shape and colour visible from almost every vantage point.

Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island
Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island

Once stocked with feral animals for sport and food during penal settlement days, the degraded environment is now being rehabilitated after an eradication program. It’s a haven for rare plants, sea birds and at least five reptiles and invertebrates found nowhere else on earth. Visitors are warned about a hazardous landing and steep, rocky track complete with ropes! Who could resist?

But it’s not that easy to get there – adverse weather conditions and heavy seas during our stay meant the tour wasn’t running so we MISSED OUT!

And so the most important question of all remains unanswered. Is there, or is there not, a SUPER scenic public loo?

Norfolk Island Pines
It just wouldn’t be Norfolk Island without those Norfolk Island Pines!

My TOP Ten Teaser isn’t the definitive guide to Norfolk Island.  There’s a LOT more to see and do and I can’t wait to go there again! See you there??

Want MORE?

* Twitcher = bird watcher with a penchant for rare and/or unusual birds

** Acrophobia = fear of heights

*** If you’re wondering why the obsession with loos, then check out my book HERE!

The post My TOP 10 Favourite things to do on Norfolk Island appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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The Ultimate Beginners Guide to Limestone Coast Attractions – Part Two! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/guide-to-limestone-coast-attractions-part-two/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/guide-to-limestone-coast-attractions-part-two/#comments Wed, 11 Nov 2015 10:17:23 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4250 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The Limestone Coast is WAY too big for one blog post – that’s why you’ll find Part One of my Limestone Coast Beginners Guide HERE! In Part One, there’s 6 SUPER cool natural Limestone Coast attractions close to Mount Gambier – best place for the amazing volcanic activity that helped make the region what it is today! In Part Two[...]

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Is Sunset at Cape Northumberland the BEST Limestone Coast Attraction?
Is Sunset at Cape Northumberland the BEST Limestone Coast Attraction?

The Limestone Coast is WAY too big for one blog post – that’s why you’ll find Part One of my Limestone Coast Beginners Guide HERE!

In Part One, there’s 6 SUPER cool natural Limestone Coast attractions close to Mount Gambier – best place for the amazing volcanic activity that helped make the region what it is today!

In Part Two (below) I’ve got 6 RED HOT Limestone Coast things to do along the coast, in the Southern Ports Highway towns Beachport and Robe, and further south in the Southern Rock Lobster capital and largest lobster fleet of Australia – Port MacDonnell, my personal favourite!

Fishing the Salmon Hole, Beachport, South Australia
Fishing the Salmon Hole, Beachport, South Australia

So if you’re ready for wild and rugged coastline; amazing sunsets; heritage trails and hikes; endless deserted beaches; bizarre rock formations; scenic drives; and some AWESOME lighthouses, you’ve come to the right spot!

Just sit back, relax and discover 6 MORE wonderful Limestone Coast attractions!

1 South OZ’s Southernmost Point

Cape Northumberland‘s rugged rocks and sensational scenery, with nothing between you and Antarctica except 5700 km (that’s a LOT of miles!) of Great Southern Ocean is as far south as is possible in South Australia!

Cape Northumberland, one of many Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia
Cape Northumberland, one of many Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia

By day, explore the Heritage and Nature Park for eroded rocks in fantastic shapes; magnificent coastal scenery north to Cape Douglas and south to Port MacDonnell; and a short walk to the site of the old lighthouse – it’s REALLY obvious why it was moved back up behind the point!

Red at Cape Northumberland - only 5700 km to the South Pole!
Red at Cape Northumberland – only 5700 km to the South Pole!

The shape of the Cape is perfect for watching sunrise (so they tell me), but I caught a killer sunset over the sea instead! After sunset, wait on the viewing platform until it’s dark for the Little Penguins (Eudyptula Minor) – only penguin to breed in Australia – to come home from eating their body weight in fish.

You’ll even get to see them if you’re smart enough to bring a torch or spotlight that actually works – like we didn’t!!

Cape Northumberland is a great place to explore – take the drive north along the coast to Finger Point for beaches, surf breaks, part of the Admella Shipwreck Trail (see below) and a lookout back to Mount Gambier. There’s even a signboard with the bizarre story of how this rugged part of the coastline became a firing range!

2 Do a Lighthouse Crawl

Cape Northumberland Lighthouse and Beach, Limestone Coast
Cape Northumberland Lighthouse and Beach, Limestone Coast

There’s a LOT of shipwreck sites along the Limestone coast so it’s no wonder there’s also a high concentration of lighthouses!

Start at Cape Northumberland (see #1). One of the noticeboards tells the tragic tale of Ben Germein, Cape Northumberland’s first Lighthouse Keeper, and don’t miss the walking trail I mentioned above!

A little further north, the Cape Banks (named for botanist Joseph Banks) Lighthouse near Carpenter Rocks at the southern end of Canunda National Park is such a toxic shade of orange it hurt my eyes. It’s also part of the Admella Discovery Trail (see below) and the coastal scenery is stunning.

Then it’s 45 minutes or so to Beachport at the northern end of Rivoli Bay – walk up to the lighthouse overlooking Cape Martin and Penguin Island or view it from several vantage points along the Bowman Scenic Drive (see below).

Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, Kingston SE, Limestone Coast Attractions
Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, Kingston SE, Limestone Coast

Robe, about half an hour further north on Guichen Bay, has a VERY modern lighthouse on a VERY rugged stretch of coast with another 30 shipwrecks. But it’s overshadowed somewhat by the VERY distinctive Cape Dombey Obelisk! The Obelisk was used to store rockets – essential for getting life lines to ships wrecked in the bay.

Head north and go right past the Cape Jaffa turnoff, because the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse is now at Kingston SE! It’s a distinctive and decorative little lighthouse on the esplanade amidst the houses and holiday shacks and it’s open during school holidays!

The next lighthouse is 183 km further north at Point Malcolm, near Narrung on the cusp of Lake Albert and Lake Alexandrina. Technically, it’s not on the Limestone Coast, but it IS the Southern Hemisphere’s only inland lighthouse!

(BONUS: Read more about the Narrung lighthouse and other notable South Australian Lighthouses HERE!)

3 Walk the Shipwreck Coast at Robe

The Limestone coast is wild and rugged! A walk in high winds with lashings of rain really adds to the atmosphere, the coast is STILL wild and rugged even when it’s fine! But there’s more than rugged rocks to see along the coast and Robe has one of the BEST selections of walks.

Coastal Walk, Robe, Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia
Coastal Walk, Robe, Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia

There’s an excellent hiking trail from the Breakwater to the Obelisk at Cape Dombey, then along the cliffs – there’s the lighthouse, water-sculpted rocks out to sea, the Blowhole and the old Gaol Ruins.

From the Robe marina, follow the coast track past Town Beach and along the cliffs to Fox’s Beach and the Outlet. Or take a walk out the back of Robe to Beacon Hill Lookout for a panoramic view over the town.

Plants from Little Dip Conservation Park, Robe, Limestone Coast
Plants from Little Dip Conservation Park, Robe, Limestone Coast

For a change of pace, head out of town to Little Dip Conservation Park and take a walk all the way around Freshwater Lake, with different woodland habitats and beautiful spring wildflowers. And snakes … even though I didn’t see any on this trip 😀

4 Drive the Limestone Coast!

Follow the Admella Discovery Trail‘s 21 markers that tell the sad story of the SS Admella, wrecked off Carpenter Rocks in 1859 with 89 deaths. But it’s not just a tale of South Australia’s worst maritime disaster, the 130 km (~80 miles) self-drive tour is a great way to discover lots of Limestone Coast attractions!

Bowman Scenic Drive, Beachport, Limestone Coast Attractions
Lighthouse and Coast, Bowman Scenic Drive, Beachport

For a cool coast experience without the history lesson, take the Bowman Scenic Drive from Beachport. What’s NOT to love about this awesome drive with lookouts, surf and fishing beaches, blowholes, rock formations and the Pool of Siloam – 7 times saltier than the sea?

PS There’s a cool Scenic Loo there too!!

5 Explore the Coorong

It’s about 130 km (~80 miles) from one end of the Coorong to the other – making it Australia’s longest, thinnest National Park! If you’re travelling to or from Adelaide, leave enough time to stop and take a look because it’s one of the more unusual Limestone Coast attractions, or make an early start if you’re planning a day trip!

Jetty Ruins, Coorong Loop Track, Salt Creek
Jetty Ruins, Coorong Loop Track, Salt Creek

The string of salt lakes separated from the ocean by the massive dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula is formed by the Murray-Darling – Australia’s biggest river system – as it flows into Lakes Alexandrina and Albert before reaching the sea up the coast at Goolwa.

The Princes Highway runs alongside the Coorong between Kingston SE and Meningie at the northern end. Other than the natural attractions there’s the Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse at Salt Creek where signs and leftover machinery mark Australia’s first oil exploration site with some interesting facts about the area. Take the walk from the roadhouse, or drive the coastal loop for more historic remains and to see the waterways and dunes up close.

Pink Lake Patterns along the Coorong, South Australia
Pink Lake Patterns along the Coorong, South Australia

Drive through to the sea from 42 mile crossing – walk the last part if you’re not in a 4WD – or via a couple of other 4WD only crossing points. Take the track in to Jack Point to see one of Australia’s largest Pelican breeding grounds. Find a quiet spot for fishing – Coorong Mullet is a South Australian delicacy – but if you’re out of luck, head back to the Roadhouse for a Coorong Mullet burger!

(BONUS: Read about the Little Loo the Government Forgot at Salt Creek HERE!)

6 A Day at the Beach

Limestone Coast attractions include so many beaches choosing just one could be tricky! So visit a few from my selected favourites – or discover your own!

Beach near Finger Point, Port MacDonnell, Limestone Coast Attractions
Beach near Finger Point, Port MacDonnell, Limestone Coast

For deserted beaches choose anywhere between the amazing stretch of deserted beach behind the coast car park at Piccaninnie Ponds (see Part 1), the collection of holiday shacks and a Scenic Loo at another long stretch of deserted beach at Brown’s Bay, the Port MacDonnell safe swimming beach protected by the breakwater, and several surfing and swimming beaches en route to Finger Point north of Cape Northumberland.

For wild and windswept, try anything in Canunda National Park (see Part 1) north of Carpenter Rocks, or play it safe at Southend‘s spectacular protected swimming beach where the national park ends.

For a dash of danger, head to the other end of Rivoli Bay, where Beachport’s Bowman Scenic Drive beaches have jagged rocks and undertows – but are perfect for fishing, especially at the Salmon Hole!

Nora Creina Coastline, Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia
Nora Creina Coastline, Limestone Coast Attractions, South Australia

For a popular holiday spot, take the coast road from Beachport and Robe and stop at Nora Creina beach. Further north, Kingston SE‘s beaches on Lacepede Bay are perfect for swimming and fishing, and for a cool beach 4WD experience, head 20 km north of Kingston for a LONG stretch of beach at the Granites, a random collection of boulders!

There are a LOT more Limestone Coast Attractions – like wineries; parks and reserves; historic buildings and museums; bird- and wildlife watching; and dining experiences – but we’re out of time! And that’s the fun of exploring, anyway – visit my 12 Limestone Coast attractions and I’ll guarantee you’ll discover more regional delights that’ll make it even more special for YOU!

Limestone Coast FAST FACTS:

Cape Dombey Obelisk at Sunset, Robe, South Australia
Cape Dombey Obelisk at Sunset, Robe, South Australia

WHERE: South East South Australia, from Meningie and the Coorong National Park at its northern tip to Port MacDonnell in the south. Mount Gambier is the largest centre.

HOW to get there: Self-drive from Adelaide to Mount Gambier (~450 km); or Melbourne to Mount Gambier (~450-550 km) – distances vary depending on route taken. Coach from Adelaide or Melbourne. Fly from Adelaide or Melbourne. Hire cars available.

WHEN: All year round. Average maximum temperatures range from 14°C in winter to 30°C in summer.

WHERE to stay: There’s a range of accommodation throughout the Limestone Coast – campgrounds, caravan parks, motels, apartments, B&Bs etc. We stayed in Mount Gambier, Port MacDonnell and Robe which were central to the attractions we wanted to see.

Want MORE?

Birds at Sunset, Pub Lake, Robe, Limestone Coast
Birds at Sunset, Pub Lake, Robe, Limestone Coast

 

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The Little Loo the Government Forgot! Salt Creek, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/the-little-loo-the-government-forgot-salt-creek-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/the-little-loo-the-government-forgot-salt-creek-south-australia/#comments Wed, 14 Oct 2015 05:57:08 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4202 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Maybe Salt Creek’s just off the radar. Or perhaps someone just forgot about it. Or possibly there’s a proposal still in the pipeline. Whatever the reason, Salt Creek has NO public amenities! Which is weird, because from whichever way you approach it, this small settlement on the coast road (aka Princes Highway) between Adelaide and Mount Gambier giving access to[...]

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Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse, Salt Creek, South Australia
Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse AND Loo, Salt Creek, South Australia

Maybe Salt Creek’s just off the radar.

Or perhaps someone just forgot about it.

Or possibly there’s a proposal still in the pipeline.

Whatever the reason, Salt Creek has NO public amenities!

Salt Creek at Salt Creek!
Salt Creek at Salt Creek!

Which is weird, because from whichever way you approach it, this small settlement on the coast road (aka Princes Highway) between Adelaide and Mount Gambier giving access to the Limestone Coast is the perfect place to stop for a break.

It’s about 2 ½ hours drive south of Adelaide.

It’s about 2 ½ hours drive north of Mount Gambier.

And it’s just about the only place to stop along the section of the ‘Highway’ (either an overgenerous description or blatantly false advertising) that passes through the Coorong, longest, thinnest National Park in Australia. Or maybe anywhere!

Coorong Waterways and Dunes, Salt Creek Loop Track, South Australia
Coorong Waterways and Dunes, Salt Creek Loop Track, South Australia

That means even travellers with no plans to STAY in Salt Creek often stop to have a look. And Salt Creek, first oil exploration site in Australia and home of world exclusive mineral Coorongite, has enough facilities to make your stay – however long that may be – worthwhile.

Oil Exploration Relic, Salt Creek, South Australia
Oil Exploration Relic, Salt Creek, South Australia

It’s also gateway to The Coorong, a 150 km long waterway between the coastal dune system of the Younghusband Peninsula and the mainland, is a wildlife wonderland, fisherfolk paradise and 4WD Adventureland.

So why isn’t there a public loo at Salt Creek?

Taking a break from driving every 2 hours or so is a commonly accepted road safety strategy. So it makes sense that a government committed to reducing the road toll would factor that into their action plan.

Right?

And ensuring there are actually rest stops along Australia’s vast road network inviting enough for traveller to actually want to take those breaks every couple of hours is a logical progression.

Right??

And where does the average person head first when they stop after two or more hours on the road?

Yep, the loo.

Right??? Or is that just me?!

But that’s where Salt Creek’s Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse comes in.

Along with fuel and food – including the famous Coorong Mullet – it’s got accommodation and a campground. There are walking trails and a self-drive loop track that takes you on a tour past some historic sites and right up close to the Coorong itself.

Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse Dunny, Salt Creek
Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse Dunny, Salt Creek, South Australia

And there’s a loo.

But tragically, although it’s at the recommended distance for a break, and despite government commitment to reducing the road toll by (in part) reminding travellers to take rest breaks and make rest stops every couple of hours, this particular loo isn’t publicly funded by ANY level of government.

Shelducks on the Coorong, South Australia
Shelducks on the Coorong, South Australia

SO … the cost of providing a loo at the most logical rest stop on the Coorong has been picked up by the Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse where owner Dove and his staff clean the loos; provide (and replenish) loo paper and hand towels; and arrange and pay for septic pumping (we’re not in the city here, folks).

What’s wrong with this picture?

Maybe it’s just expected that a small business in an out of the way settlement picks up the tab for underfunded government policy. That’s a big ask – especially when many travellers who stop don’t want anything except a dunny break, which puts Dove and the Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse out of pocket.

I’d like to think there’s a government department somewhere that IS responsible for a coordinated approach to to developing a national network of roadside rest stops and loos. I’d also like to think that instead of pushing the costs of maintaining a loo down to small business, they just forget about Salt Creek.

Remains of Jetty, Salt Creek Loop Track, South Australia
Remains of Jetty, Salt Creek Loop Track, South Australia

Yes, this might just be the little loo the government forgot.

But until it ‘remembers’, if you stop in Salt Creek to use the dunny, make a small donation to loo maintenance, or buy something – like fuel, or a drink; a magazine, or a postcard. Or a Coorong Mullet Burger!

Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse and Loo, Salt Creek
Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse and Loo, Salt Creek

That way the little loo the government forgot will be there next time you want to use it!

Want MORE?


Previous Post:  11 Photos; 9 Bloggers; ONE Awesome Rock!

NEXT Post:  The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Part ONE

 

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U is for Uluru: 11 Photos; 9 Bloggers; One Awesome Rock! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/10/u-is-for-uluru-11-photos-9-bloggers-one-awesome-rock/#comments Fri, 02 Oct 2015 10:19:07 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4140 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Uluru. When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC. What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With[...]

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Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Uluru by my old film camera, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Uluru.

When a Google search produces over 6.5 million results, writing anything else about Uluru becomes SO redundant I’m tempted not to use it for my Aussie ABC.

What’s left to say about this massive monolith of sandstone 348 metres (1141 feet) high, 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long, 1.9 km (1.2 miles) wide and 3.33 km² (1.29 miles²) in size? With a 10 km (6 mile) hike around the base if you choose not to take the steep 1.6 km summit track?? And the slowly oxidising surface iron giving it that distinctive red colour, an instant worldwide recognition factor and over 400,000 visitors each year???

Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)
Uluru Waterhole (photo courtesy of LInda, Journey Jottings)

But Uluru is WAY more than just statistics. An Uluru experience can be awe-inspiring, surprising, fantastical, adventurous, mind-blowing, healing and deeply moving.

Nothing says Australia quite like Uluru.

And nothing says Uluru quite like the nine different first impressions of the Rock shared by nine (8 + me!) travel bloggers!

1 Linda – Journey Jottings

Since I discovered Linda’s fabulous Journey Jottings products back in my early blogging days, they’ve accompanied me to a LOT of Aussie Hot Spots! But not Uluru – yet, anyway!

Linda says: ‘Everyone has seen a gazillion photos of Uluru, but its magical presence simply can’t be conveyed in 2D. And It holds surprises – Hidden delights you can only discover when getting up close and personal.’

Did you know, there are waterholes at Uluru?’

2 Neil – Bushwalking Blog

By Neil’s Bushwalking Blog standards, a tactful person would describe MY bushwalking skills as ‘average’! Perhaps I can get some hiking credibility like Neil’s on one of the Aussie Hiking Tours on his new website!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Neil Fahey, Bushwalking Blog)

But it’s not all about the walks. Neil’s first impression of Uluru didn’t actualy involve hiking …

Neil says: ‘I was in a pretty bad place when I visited Uluru. I’ll never forget how depressed and hollow I felt as I drove out the Lasseter Highway, and then how its energy completely overcame me as I approached, and I burst into tears and had to pull over. My healing began right there on the side of the road, staring at that incredible rock.’

3 Jo – Zigazag

Jo’s fabulous travel and lifestyle blog Zigazag is a go-to for anyone who wants to discover Western Australia’s hidden secrets AND tales of travel from around the world! But Jo’s WA roots didn’t stop her from visiting Uluru – where you can see what the well-dressed mountaineer was wearing back then!!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Jo Castro, Zigazag and Lifestyle Fifty)

Jo says: ‘I visited Ayers Rock in 1983 when I was working in Alice Springs. I can remember driving for what seemed like hours along a corrugated red road that made my fillings jangle, and arriving finally at a small hotel, or was it a roadhouse then, I can’t remember where I was told I could pitch my tent. Problem was I’d forgotten the tent pegs so I had to borrow some string to hitch it between two bushes.

Ayers Rock was such a quiet place back then and for me it had an ethereal quality about it and really did change colour at different times of the day. We were encouraged to climb ‘the rock’ when I visited although now I believe it’s actively discouraged. I can remember standing on the summit at a quiet spot on my own, hair billowing in the breeze, wearing a wrap around skirt and a green sweatshirt and feeling at one with the world in that vast horizon in a spiritual place.’

4 Annie – Go Camping

Full of advice about the Aussie camping scene along with gadgets, recipes and bizarre camping must-haves, Annie’s blog Go Camping is the place to be when you’re planning a road-trip or camping holiday.

Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy of Annie, Go Camping)

Annie says: ‘My first impression of Uluru was that of stunned amazement – I had seen so many photos of it over the years, but nothing prepared me for its size and beauty. It really is awe inspiring when you are up close to it, and walking around the base, seeing all these different aspects of it.

Must do for every Aussie!’

5 Andy – Travelling Type

After getting my regular fix of out-of-the-way Australia from Andy’s blog Travelling Type, he inconsiderately moved overseas to live and work and the Aussie posts thinned out. SO … as revenge, I’m hoping this post makes him homesick as hell!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Andy Tope, Travelling Type)

Andy says: ‘When I first sighted Uluru, it was apparent to me how vast the landscape was surrounding it. However, it wasn’t until I got up close to this whopping rock that it really impressed me, far more than I thought it would, as there are many folds, caves and ridges that lay within.’

6 Mandy – Travelling Australia With Kids

I’ve never travelled Australia with kids and probably never will. But I certainly agree with the concept behind Mandy’s great blog Travelling Australia With Kids – especially if it makes those kids grow up to appreciate the awesome natural attractions in OZ. Like Uluru!

Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)
Uluru (Photo Courtesy Mandy, Travelling Australia With Kids)

Mandy says: ‘Something somewhere inside stirred and I felt like it was connecting with my soul! All sounds a bit spiritual, but seriously I was moved on a level I had not experienced before. I just wanted to look at it and experience it and absorb it. Hence 163 photos!

I could go on and on! We stayed at the nearby caravan park and I would wonder where my hubby was and he would be up at the lookout and vice versa. Every moment we could we would be just staring at it, transfixed almost, it actually became a bit odd as if it was drawing us in. But we just could not stop.’

7 Amanda – Adventures All Around

We’re both Aussie travellers, bloggers and red-heads, so that makes Amanda and I virtually twins, right? Apart from a few trifling details like her radio show, overseas travel and a few years in age! Amanda’s first time at Uluru was a very different experience as she writes on her blog Adventures All Around!

Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)
Uluru by Harley (Photo Courtesy Amanda Woods, Adventures All Around)

Amanda says: ‘I’d seen all the pictures and heard all the stories, but still nothing prepared me for what it feels like to be in the shadow of Uluru. To look up at that huge rock and see the caves and crevices and the colours.

Pictures don’t do it justice and my words won’t either. It’s something that needs to be experienced and that I hope to experience again.’

8 Michela – Rocky Travel

Michela’s travels in Australia, documented on her blog Rocky Travel, put many Aussies to shame. Her Top Tips for planning a road trip to Uluru are great advice – and she’s the only blogger to date that I’ve met face to face!

Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)
Michela at Uluru (Photo Courtesy MIchela Fantinel, Rocky Travel)

Michela says: ‘I vividly remember the feeling I had while approaching Uluru by car the first time. From the distance the Uluru growing bigger and bigger into its mighty shape. It was a strange feeling, a mix of awe, bewilderment, excitement, and a deep peacefulness. Right now by looking back at that moment I get shivers.’

9 Red Nomad OZ – RedzAustralia

Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia
Uluru Track to the Top, Central Australia

On the 100 km trek along the road to Uluru from Curtin Springs, where we’d staged a two-person protest against the high cost of accommodation closer to the Rock, I was distracted by wildflowers lining the road – the result of a wetter than average year.

But then I looked up out the car window and there it was dominating the landscape and pulling us towards it like a magnet – maybe there’s something in the ley lines theory after all! I just HAD to get closer – but when I saw the WAY steep and exposed track to the top, I just knew I wouldn’t be climbing it.

So big it made the huge rocky domes of nearby Kata Tjuta look like marbles, Uluru’s ever-changing colours are endlessly fascinating. And the rocky pools, waterfall spots and wave-like formations made the base walk a wonderful experience.

Wanting a part of the rock made me almost see the point of those kitschy Uluru snow dome souvenirs too.  So I bought one – and it looked a bit like THIS!

Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia
Shadows at Uluru, Central Australia

With those 6.5 million results from the ‘Uluru’ Google search, I have no fear that this’ll become the definitive ‘go to’ post for travellers seeking information and inspiration about Australia’s iconic rock.

But travellers unedited first impressions never lie – so if you’ve been thinking about visiting or re-visiting Australia’s BIGGEST Rock Star, then DO IT NOW!

Have YOU been to Uluru? What was YOUR first impression of Australia’s TOP Rock Star?!

Want MORE?

The post U is for Uluru: 11 Photos; 9 Bloggers; One Awesome Rock! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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Climb Bald Rock – Australia’s BIGGEST Granite Monolith! via Tenterfield, NSW https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/09/climb-bald-rock-australias-biggest-granite-monolith/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/09/climb-bald-rock-australias-biggest-granite-monolith/#comments Thu, 03 Sep 2015 11:52:02 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4036 NEW from RedzAustralia!

There’s no shame in taking the easy option. Is there? That’s what I kept telling myself on the Bald Rock climb, anyway. It’d been too long since I clocked up an Australian exclusive, so climbing Bald Rock, largest exposed granite rock in the Southern Hemisphere and centrepiece of the boulder-studded Granite Country around Tenterfield, was a no-brainer. Choosing the easier[...]

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Boulders on Bald Rock climb, via Tenterfield NSW
Boulders on Bald Rock, via Tenterfield NSW

There’s no shame in taking the easy option. Is there?

That’s what I kept telling myself on the Bald Rock climb, anyway.

It’d been too long since I clocked up an Australian exclusive, so climbing Bald Rock, largest exposed granite rock in the Southern Hemisphere and centrepiece of the boulder-studded Granite Country around Tenterfield, was a no-brainer.

Bald Rock Climb Walking Trail, via Tenterfield NSW
Bald Rock Climb Walking Trail, via Tenterfield NSW

Choosing the easier of the two Bald Rock walking tracks was also a no-brainer – for an acrophobic*, that is! At 2.5 km (one way) the Bungoona trail was the longer of the two.  But with its medium degree of difficulty rating, interpretive signs and path through a good cross-section of granite country had a nice, gentle, safe sound to it.

Rock Face, on the other hand, didn’t!

I could cope with ‘spectacular scenery’. I could cope with ‘short’. I could even cope with ‘steep’. But I couldn’t cope with ‘exposed’!

If you’ve never suffered from vertigo, fear of falling or just plain old gutlessness**, you’ll have NO IDEA what I’m talking about. If that’s you, then you might as well knock yourself out and do the Bald Rock climb on the Rock Face track.  Then brag about it on YOUR blog. Thank you for reading this far, you are now free to go.

Granite Titans on the Bald Rock Climb
Granite Titans on the Bald Rock Climb, Bald Rock National Park

Of course I didn’t out myself as a gutless wonder*** to Pilchard.!

‘Let’s take the longer track through the woodlands on the way up,’ I casually suggested as if I’d actually considered the Rock Face option for more than a fleeting nanosecond. ‘That way we’ll get to see more birds****,’ I added in a masterful blend of reverse psychology, low cunning and staggering genius.

So we took the LONG track (yes, my dodgy plan really worked!) as it gently wound up through the open eucalypt country on the lower slopes of Bald Rock.  It went in and around the series of boulders and tunnels that make up the Granite Titans, and up along a number of rocky ledges into the open.

Where the Rock Face Track joins the main Bald Hill Climb Track
The EDGE! Where the Rock Face Track joins the main Bald Hill Climb Track

My gaze flickered over the sloping rock looking for the edge. There wasn’t one.

But then I saw the track markers marching down the slope to where the Rock Face track plunged over the side of the massive granite incline into oblivion.

I didn’t care which descent route Pilchard took, but I didn’t need a crystal ball to see 2.5 km of back-tracking in MY future!

But I put that problem on the back burner. For now, I could see the summit across a rocky expanse, cracks filled with vegetation, and extraordinarily vibrant colours flowing down the rock into the valley below.

Way WAAAAAY below!

Rising 200 metres (666 feet) above the surrounding plain, Bald Rock is part of a volcanic extrusion of the New England underlying Batholith. At least that’s what I’d say if I was a geologist or a show-off, but it’s easier just just describe it as a gigantic hunk of granite.

Bald Rock Rocks - Bald Rock Climb
Bald Rock Rocks en route to the Summit!

But not just any old granite – this is Stanthorpe adamellite! Which is (of course) distinguished from ordinary granite by the presence of pink orthoclase feldspar, white plagioclase feldspar, black biotite mica and clear quartz in the rock.

Or so I was reliably informed by one of the several interpretive signs along the way. It’s only a short stroll to the summit from where the Rock Face track joins the main trail. The staggering 360° view over Bald Rock National Park extends across the border into Queensland.  It even takes in the adjoining Girraween National Park – an excursion for another day.

Bald Rock Walking trail Summit View
Bald Rock Walking trail Summit View

The summit is the best place to see the massive monolith.  At 750 metres long and 500 wide there’s nowhere on the plain to appreciate its gargantuan proportions. As well as the smaller boulders, vegetation, seasonal wildflowers and texture of the rock.

Bald Rock Granite and View
Bald Rock Granite and View

Yes, it’s the Bald AND the Beautiful 😀

And as I gazed over the amazing scenery I figured it didn’t matter which of the Bald rock walking tracks I’d taken to get to the top.  The view from the summit was the same either way.

Bald Rock Fast Facts:

Size: 750 m long; 500 m wide; 200 m high (measured from the surrounding plain)

Where is Bald Rock: 34 km from Tenterfield – 29 km on the fully sealed Mt Lindesay Highway then 5 km on the park access road.

Where is Tenterfield: 270 km S of Brisbane; 770 km N of Sydney; 160 km W of Lismore; 160 km NE of Inverell.

When to Visit: Bald Rock National Park is accessible all year round

What to do: Several Bald Rock Walking Tracks including 2 summit trails – Bungoona (3.2 km one way) and Rockface; Bald Rock Picnic and Camping Area with Barbecue facilities

Cost: $7 entry fee per car per day; Camping Fees: $10 per adult/$5 per child + $7 Entry fee per day (as at September 2015)

Flora on Bald Rock Climb, Bald Rock National Park
Flora on Bald Rock Climb, Bald Rock National Park

Want MORE?

* Acrophobia = Fear of Heights

** Gutlessness = Cowardice

*** Gutless Wonder = Coward

**** The feathered variety, to which Pilchard is devoted!

The watcher in the woods - Superb Lyrebird
We wouldn’t have seen this Superb Lyrebird on the Rock Face Trail!

 

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Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim Part TWO https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/random-adventures-in-the-scenic-rim-part-two/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/random-adventures-in-the-scenic-rim-part-two/#comments Thu, 16 Apr 2015 22:35:52 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3547 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Are you ready to return to that magical land of mountains awash with rocks and rainforest; steep passes, plunging waterfalls and patch-worked plains; green and glowing with magnificent sunsets? What land is this? It’s Australia’s amazing Scenic Rim Region that I introduced in Part One HERE! Don’t recall? Check it out NOW! I’ll wait … … OK! You’re back! So[...]

The post Random Adventures in the Scenic Rim Part TWO appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

Boat at Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Boat at Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Are you ready to return to that magical land of mountains awash with rocks and rainforest; steep passes, plunging waterfalls and patch-worked plains; green and glowing with magnificent sunsets?

What land is this?

It’s Australia’s amazing Scenic Rim Region that I introduced in Part One HERE! Don’t recall? Check it out NOW! I’ll wait …

… OK! You’re back!

So I don’t have to tell you again that the semi-circular Scenic Rim runs along the rugged ranges of the border between Queensland and New South Wales about an hour west of Australia’s far better known east coast hotspots like Byron Bay, the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise. It’s not that far from Brisbane, either.

Pelican at Sunset on Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Pelican at Sunset on Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

And I certainly wouldn’t dream of repeating myself to say it’s quite different to ANY of these – and most other places in Australia as well! SO … if you haven’t already put the Scenic Rim on your ‘MUST SEE’ list, do it NOW!

I’ll wait …

… Oh! You want MORE random adventures?

OK! Read ON!

Lake Moogerah with Smoke Haze, Scenic Rim, Queensland
Lake Moogerah with Smoke Haze, Scenic Rim, Queensland

The Lady of the Lake

Don’t hate me!

I’d spent SO much time using Lake Moogerah as a mere backdrop to (all modesty aside) stunning sunrise (see Part One), lovely landscape (see Flickr) and superb sunset (see below) photos, I hadn’t seen it as an attraction in its own right.

Despite its 8.27 km² surface area!

So on our last day in the Scenic Rim Region, we hired a boat – the same one shamelessly used as a sunset shot prop – from the Lake Moogerah Caravan Park and spent four fun-filled hours exploring the lake.

Gorge Rock Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Gorge Rock Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Reversing the usual vista of the lake from the shore was a master-stroke of staggering genius for both the birdo (Pilchard) and wannabe-photographer (Red) AND a cheap half-day out at only $60! If possible, the landscape – perfect but for the pall of smoke from yet another controlled burn-off – was even MORE sensational than from the shore.

Signs on the shoreline show the height reached by the dam during the rain events and flooding of January, 2011 which also flooded Brisbane. Cruising past the mass concrete double curvature arch dam wall with an ungated spillway that would have been several metres below us during those floods made what we’d seen on TV more real.

Tree Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Tree Reflections, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

As we cruised Lake Moogerah’s long and varied shoreline, the four hours we’d hired the tinnie for disappeared in a flash!  Imagine how much MORE time we’d have needed if we’d actually gone fishing instead of indulging in a birding/photographic frenzy?!?

That’s why this lady sees a lot more of THAT lake in her future …

Mt Barney’s Lower Portals

Warnings about unmarked tracks, rockfalls and fitness requirements deterred us from scaling Mt Barney’s 1300+ metre high twin summits. Even the ‘safer’ walks around Mt Barney’s base were still riddled with hazards.

Mt Maroon, en route to Mt Barney, Scenic Rim
Mt Maroon, en route to Mt Barney, Scenic Rim

That’s if we could even get there without a 4WD!

But the imposing magnificence of the Mt Barney Peaks dominating the landscape en route from NSW town Woodenbong to Queensland town Rathdowney had cast their spell. And who knew when – or whether – we’d pass this way again?

Mt Barney Profile, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Profile, Scenic Rim, Queensland

So although a burn-off on one of the mountain’s flanks was scheduled on the day of our Mt Barney hike, the forecast suggested the prevailing winds would blow the smoke away. And heavy hiking boots would make short work of the washaways and moderate to steep gradients of the 7.4 km return Lower Portals trail.

We weren’t in any hurry!

Kookaburra at Mt Barney, Scenic Rim
Kookaburra at Mt Barney, Scenic Rim

 

A couple of kilometres, some magnificent forest and a kookaburra later, the wind changed direction and the valleys filled with a blue, smoky haze. Not just ‘smoky’, but ACTUAL SMOKE! I could see a long session at the Lake Moogerah campground laundry in my future – but in the meantime, it enhanced my photos superbly!

The campground at the track’s junction with Mt Barney Creek was the first I’d ever been to accessible only by foot, but its location beside the rocky gorges of the Lower Portals almost made me wish I’d carried my body weight in camping gear in so I could stay there.

ALMOST!

Mt Barney Lower Portals Campground, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Lower Portals Campground, Scenic Rim

The most hazardous part of the hike, however, wasn’t the road in; thickening smoke; rocks in the creek; or challenging track conditions – but passing a group of what seemed like dozens of teenage boys addressing each other in the incomprehensible teen-speak of youth, pungent from the sweat and smoke of a 3-day camping trek around Mt Barney’s highlights as they headed back to the trailhead with the mindless dedication of a mass lemming migration.

Where’s the hazard, you ask?

Mt Barney Creek, Scenic Rim
Mt Barney Creek, Scenic Rim

 

Well … YOU try maintaining a steady pace – NO puffing or panting! – while climbing an astonishingly steep staircase as you respond (in a normal voice) to the polite greetings of the group and their minders! ALL with a smile on your non-red face!

I dare YOU to try it!

The Condamine River Valley

Our first visit to the Scenic Rim and we didn’t even know the Condamine River Valley existed.

A week later we’d seen this part of Australia’s longest river system twice!

Carrs Lookout and Mt Jiramon landscape, Scenic Rim
View from Carrs Lookout with Mt Jiramon, Queensland

From the New South Wales side, we drove the Lindesay Road, arguably Australia’s worst, from Woodenbong to Queen Mary Falls, then up the range to Carr’s lookout, and (arguably) one of Australia’s finest views across the Condamine Valley.

On that trip, we didn’t take the Head Road down into the valley.

But from Lake Moogerah, it’s a stunning drive through the valley then up an impossibly steep road to the scenic splendour of Carrs Lookout. There’s nowhere to hide on this narrow, steep and winding road, so hope like hell everyone else has seen the ‘not suitable for caravans’ warning signs!!

Condamine Valley, Scenic Rim, Queensland
Condamine Valley, Scenic Rim, Queensland

Tragically, the limitations of our vehicle meant we didn’t experience the 4WD-only Condamine River Road’s 14 creek crossings on the Cambanoora Gorge Circuit. So we took a superb morning tea at the Spring Creek Mountain Café just below Carrs Lookout as partial compensation for our disappointment.

It worked!

Cracking the Rocks at Mt French

At 468 metres above sea level, Mt French isn’t very high by either Australian OR Scenic Rim standards – and it’s SO off the radar by world standards! It’s the lowest of the four peaks that make up the Moogerah Peaks National Park. And it’s only a short drive to the top from Central Scenic Rim town Boonah!

But Mt French’s Logan’s Lookout is one of the highest points in the Fassifern Valley, thus giving great view over the much higher ranges to the south-west on the NSW/Queensland border. But the REAL attraction is the vertical fissuring which apparently makes this an internationally renowned ‘crack climbing crag’ – or so I am reliably informed.

Fassifern Valley Patchwork from Mt French, Scenic Rim
Fassifern Valley Patchwork from Mt French, Scenic Rim

On our late afternoon visit, there weren’t any climbers visible on Frog Buttress, the rocky outcrop at Mt French’s northern end where the crack rock climbers congregate. I guess once you’ve cracked the rock stacks, there’s nothing for it but to retreat to the Frog Buttress Campground.

And with a name like that AND a dose of cool Scenic Public Toilet, who wouldn’t want to stay there? Along with the crack-rock-climber-campers communing with nature via the enticing blend of electro-hip-hop-funky-c-rap spewing at a million decibels (give or take) from their appalling car sound system??

Perhaps crack-rock-climbing wasn’t the only ‘crack’ on offer!

Dang! Where DID I put those ear plugs??!!

Lake Moogerah Sunset

Amongst the detritus of the camera-battery-flattening array of Lake Moogerah shots my snap-happy shutter button finger (and I) took hour after punishing hour, there are a few sunset shots worth keeping.

Sunset with Australasian Darter, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim
Sunset with Australasian Darter, Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim

Weirdly, all the good ones have props!

Taking a sunset stroll along Lake Moogerah’s shoreline became a habit on the nights with no rain, with one added bonus over the sunrise strolls – no one saw me in my pyjamas*!

Scenic Rim Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Queensland
Scenic Rim Sunset, Lake Moogerah, Queensland

Want MORE?

* See Lake Moogerah Sunrise in Part One


Previous Post: Adelaide, Autumn, and the Mt Lofty Botanic Garden 

NEXT Post: Tour the Yorke Peninsula via its BEST Scenic Loos! 

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