Things to do Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/things-to-do/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Fri, 29 Oct 2021 23:29:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Things to do Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/things-to-do/ 32 32 Beauty and Bushfires: Exploring Kangaroo Island, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/10/exploring-kangaroo-island-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/10/exploring-kangaroo-island-south-australia/#comments Thu, 14 Oct 2021 12:51:23 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=6839 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Kangaroo Island Bushfires Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.   I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection[...]

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Pennington Bay, Kangaroo Island
Pennington Bay, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island Bushfires

Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.  

Bunker Hill Lookout, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Bunker Hill Lookout, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. He was telling me about his reaction to the horrific bushfires, started by lightning strikes, that burnt more than 46% of the island’s 440,500 hectares (1,700 square miles) over several weeks of the 2019/2020 Australian summer.  Two lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze, numerous farms and businesses ruined and thousands of animals—both livestock and wildlife—perished.

I knew what he meant.  I had just seen the devastation he was describing for myself from the Bunker Hill observation point that looks out over the coastal plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 square miles), or about 96% of the bushland in the park was destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting sight.  

Kangaroo Island Today

Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands and dense coastal scrub, the rolling hills and plains were open and bare where the understory and low vegetation had been burnt away. In many places, only scorched tree trunks remained, very different to the verdant forests I remembered from my only other visit to Kangaroo Island 15 years earlier.

Prospect Hill Lookout, Kangaroo Island
Prospect Hill Lookout, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The bushfires have had devastating environmental, economic and personal consequences for Kangaroo Island’s 4,500-strong population, and have forever separated its history into “before” and “after” the blaze.  Recovery on all fronts has been long, slow and hindered even further by COVID-19 restrictions. 

Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s easy to see why the national park still attracts many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000 annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the bushland’s regeneration is well under way.  A mantle of green is starting to cover the blackened ground and new growth sprouts from the burnt tree trunks.  

Vivonne Bay with Bushfire Damage
Vivonne Bay with Bushfire Damage, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The island has become a land of dramatic contrasts. In the forest and farmland, the fire’s trail of destruction can end abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and untouched greenery side by side. Rocks, dunes and land formations are now strikingly bare where ground cover and the understory once hid them. In places, where the flames reached the sea, there is now an eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened vegetation against the island’s signature aquamarine waters.

Visiting the island now is not only a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness its regeneration first hand, but  also to assist community recovery by providing much needed cash flow to affected businesses and tourism operators.

Lichen-covered rocks, Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island
Lichen-covered rocks, Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced “kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. 

Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi) length is a journey through a stunning wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres (335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched beaches and dune systems, rivers and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant life, fresh regional produce and friendly locals all add to the relaxed island vibe.  Despite the devastation of the fires, the attractions are all still here. A day or two will not be enough to experience everything the island has to offer.

How to get here

The fastest way to reach KI is a 30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres (13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry terminal at Cape Jervis. 

Sellicks Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Sellicks Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis at its south-western tip. Driving from Adelaide gives the option of taking your own vehicle on the ferry, recommended for those who wish to explore the entire island. Caravans, camper trailers and campers can also be taken on the ferry, although tours are available for those without transportation.

My travelling companions and I decided to drive from Adelaide and first explore parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf. As we only had a few hours before our ferry departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s stunning coastline and picturesque inland region wouldn’t be possible. 

Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Instead, we chose a cross-section of attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s long jetty and red rocky walls above the Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop, in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue waters of Normanville beach; and Second Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.

Aboard the Kangaroo Island Ferry
Cape Jervis from Kangaroo Island Ferry, South Australia

Backstairs Passage, the strait between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for its rough seas so choosing the best time to cross can be like picking a winning lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our afternoon crossing was a rough one, but not as bad as the morning trip when most of a large school excursion group became violently sea-sick.  

A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy seas can mean a greater chance of spotting ocean-going birds such as shearwaters, petrels and albatross, not usually seen this close to land.  The only trick is to stay upright on deck and hold the binoculars steady as the ferry heaves and rolls through the waves and cross-currents.

Kangaroo Island History

Rock Formations, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Remarkable Rocks Formations, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Discovery of stone tools, middens (ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave shelters on KI are proof of Australian Indigenous occupation, thought to pre-date colonial settlement by up to 65,000 years. It is believed that a group of people remained on the island when rising waters separated it from the mainland 10,000 years ago during the last glacial period.  Evidence also indicates they left the island 2,000 – 4,000 years before European colonisation, although it is unclear how or why.

Indigenous people from the mainland knew the island as Karta Pintingga or “Island of the dead”. This is because during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the period in which life was created, a Spirit Ancestor travelled to the island en route to the Milky Way and was followed here by spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.

Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

There is some doubt as to when colonial exploration of KI began. The generally accepted version starts in 1802 when Matthew Flinders landed here while on an expedition to map Australia’s southern coastline for the British Government aboard HMS Investigator.  He unimaginatively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for its many kangaroos, a welcome source of fresh meat.

After leaving the island, the Investigator met French ship Le Geographe, captained by Nicolas Baudin. Although their countries were at war, the two captains exchanged information and later that year, Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline, giving many of its geographic features French names.

However, the discovery of an inscription on a tree in the Cygnet River locality dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat meat” indicates that the island was already known by then. To whom, and for how long is unknown.

Baudin’s crew later met some American sealers aboard the brig Union and passed on details of the island to them. The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began, closely followed by the arrival of whalers.

In 1836, the first free (non-convict) European settlement in Australia was established on KI by the British based South Australian Company.  Faced with many difficulties, most of the colony relocated to the mainland four years later, leaving behind a few settlers whose tenacity and ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are characteristics still evident in the present-day KI community.  

Cape du Couedic Coastline, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic Coastline, Kangaroo Island

Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for its quality and exported around the world. A variety of industries includes honey from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world; boutique wineries, breweries and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood; eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products; oats and other cereal crops; along with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and beauty products, all available from local outlets and shopfronts.

Penneshaw and the Dudley Peninsula

The ferry docks at the small town of Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern end, a good base for exploring the Dudley Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the peninsula’s natural attractions are a good introduction to life on KI. 

Lashmar Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Lashmar Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island

We spent a day exploring the three conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s south-eastern coastline. From mid-May to late October, southern right whales and the occasional humpback whale can be seen from the cliff tops along this section of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s largest animal, can also be seen from the shores, although they are more likely to be found feeding in upwelling zones further offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water rises from the ocean depths.

Baudin Conservation Park, with its coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east of Penneshaw, not to be confused with Baudin Beach to the south-west.

Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby, is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching and canoeing.  There’s a popular camping area where the Chapman River, which flows through the park, enters the ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful sandy beach.

At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost, where South Australia’s first lighthouse was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached museum and walking trails around the cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby conservation park.

Sunset at Christmas Cove, Kangaroo Island
Sunset at Christmas Cove, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset over Christmas Cove.  Then take an evening tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula minor) coming ashore on the beaches and cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.

Hog Bay Road follows a string of beaches, including Baudin Beach, south-west from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill, right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where it adjoins the central and western parts of the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’ footsteps and climb the large sand dune, KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views north across Pelican Lagoon to American River and south to Pennington Bay. These days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep climb easier while protecting the fragile dunes beneath.

American River

From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre (6 mi) drive north to the small settlement of American River.  After staying in Penneshaw overnight, we moved here for the remainder of our stay as it offers easier access to the rest of KI’s attractions.

Sunrise with Swans, American River, Kangaroo Island
Sunrise with Swans, American River, Kangaroo Island

The locality was named in true Aussie style for a group of American sealers who camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon, an ocean inlet which they mistakenly thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus atratus) and other water birds plentiful.  

Koala, Kangaroo Island
Koala, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

“Every morning I’d be given a koala to nurse for the day,” Kylie, an accommodation host based in American River, told me. “The next morning I’d be told that the koala I’d been looking after had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.”  She and her husband had only lived on the island a short time before the fires, and even though the American River community wasn’t directly under threat, the smoke was so thick they thought they’d have to leave. They and their neighbours spent some tense nights watching the glow in the sky and hearing horror stories about what was happening at the other end of the island.

Once the fires raged out of control and all visitors had returned to the mainland, Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife rescue centre, set up to care for the influx of injured animals rescued by locals and firefighters.

While exact pre- and post-bushfire numbers are unknown, it is believed that 80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI perished.  About 40% of those treated in the centre were rehabilitated to be released back into the wild, thanks to the tireless work of volunteers and donations from around the world.

The Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge where I was a guest, is located right across the road from the American River inlet.  With comfortable and well-appointed rooms, an excellent restaurant and friendly, helpful staff, it’s also a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. Don’t miss sunrise over the inlet—the colours, reflections and waterbird silhouettes can be stunning.  Afterwards, treat yourself to the wonderful breakfast buffet in the restaurant.

Famous for its seafood, American River’s most well known (and possibly most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood including local oysters, abalini (baby abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish), King George whiting and calamari. 

Pelican Sunrise, American River
Still Life with Pelican, across the road from the Mercure, American River, Kangaroo Island

Just outside town a hiking trail leads to the remains of the town’s historic fish cannery, established around 1890, but abandoned two years later as there was no way to store and keep excess fish. A short drive north-west of town is Redbanks, where multi-coloured cliffs tower above the beach.

KI is home to an endemic subspecies of the critically endangered glossy black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus), and the American River flock can often be seen around the town and nearby bushland. 

Kingscote and North Coast

Endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo, Kangaroo Island
Endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo, Kangaroo Island

Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24 mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s largest town and commercial centre. The first free Australian settlement was set up at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with walking trails and historic sites listed on the South Australian Heritage Register. The Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots. Look for sea lions and dolphins in the waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.

Explore the north coast’s secluded beaches from here, including the white sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this region were hit hard by the bushfires, but much of the north-coast, especially the eastern end, is now accessible.

Snellings View, where I was a guest, makes an excellent base from which to discover the delights of the North Coast’s stunning coastal scenery—or just hide away and relax. With magnificent views over Snellings beach and the surrounding farmland from the deck, the open-plan lounge/dining area and both double bedrooms, this luxurious getaway is fully self-contained. Photos from a book produced by the owners show that the bushfires burned right up to the deck.

Snellings Beach, Kangaroo Island
The beach from Snellings View, Kangaroo Island

“I was wearing my mother’s engagement ring and a ring belonging to my late sister that day.  My other jewellery and belongings were obliterated in the fire,” Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing the devastating losses the day that she and her partner lost their home.  

“A year later, I’m still discovering things I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot of photos to Facebook because my hard drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement of living in temporary accommodation without a permanent home to which they can return isn’t easy either.

Vivonne Bay Jetty, Kangaroo Island
Vivonne Bay Jetty, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Priscilla and her partner are now rebuilding, but the process is hampered by the logistics of living on an island. Returning to normal life is still a long way off but the support of the KI community, all of whom have been affected in some way by the fires, has been invaluable.

The South Coast

Little Sahara, Kangaroo Island
Little Sahara, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The South Coast road is known for its nature- and adventure-based attractions.  Although the fire reached the sea here, the stunning colours, white sandy beaches and rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy to see why this beach was declared  best in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s best beach location.  Spend a day swimming, surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking or canoeing the Harriet River which meets the sea at the bay.

Sunrise at American River, Kangaroo Island
Sunrise at American River, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing. Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat bikes are also on offer by tour companies, with guided walking tours and kayaking also available.

Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be observed from the Visitor Centre viewing platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.

Flinders Chase National Park

From American River, we took the 105 kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the Flinders Chase National Park entrance, taking about 75 minutes. En route, the fire damage became progressively worse until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout mentioned above, where the worst effects of the fire can be seen.

Cape du Couedic coastline, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Cape du Couedic coastline, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

In the far south-west at Cape du Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is intact, a stark contrast with other coastal sections of the park now blackened and burnt.  The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five day trek passing through here, was badly damaged by the fires, but a modified version is now open. It is a rare opportunity to see bushland regeneration firsthand and view open landscapes not previously visible when covered by dense vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also available.

Seals and other Wildlife

From the cape, a boardwalk descends into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets.  By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted almost to extinction for their thick, water repellent pelts.  From 1900, various levels of protection have applied to the islets, and now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine Parks protect the waters these seals call home.

Rosenberg’s Goanna, Kangaroo Island
Rosenberg’s Goanna, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Wildlife is returning to the bushfire zone, although much of the habitat they relied on for food and shelter was destroyed. Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are able to bury themselves underground during bushfires in order to survive.

Weirs Cove

KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable waters have been responsible for over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda, the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives were lost in the surrounding waters. Before road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and visitors—were hoisted from the nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre (300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement via a primitive “flying fox” winching system made of pulleys and ropes.

Weirs Cove Lighthouse Outstation Ruins Cape du Couedic
Weirs Cove Lighthouse Outstation Ruins Cape du Couedic, Kangaroo Island

Remarkable Rocks

Ironically, no vegetation obscures the park’s most well known feature—the Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires. The tumbling pile of fractured granite blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on a large dome of exposed granite above a sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove and the coast-hugging road. A coating of bright orange lichen renders some of the rocks even more bizarre. 

Featuring in films such as “Napoleon” (1995), and “The December Boys” (2007), the rocks have also starred in countless home movies and social media posts. Many visitors have their photo taken under the “Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling above the rocky base.  Exploring the odd shapes and textures of the rocks can take a while if you’ve got a camera, and watching other people exploring the rocks can take even longer.

Turtle Beak, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island
Turtle Beak, Remarkable Rocks, Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Although these were the only park attractions open to the public during our stay, I wasn’t disappointed.  Seeing the park’s recovery firsthand replaced the despair I had felt when watching the horrifying blaze on the news night after night.  I’m already looking forward to returning once more attractions have reopened.

Come to Kangaroo Island

Indisputably, the close-knit KI community is known for its resilience and courage, and for working together to preserve and protect the island they love.  After seeing the beauty that remains and regeneration in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent that this island is a special place. 

While full recovery may take many more years, don’t leave it too long to experience its wonders.  Kangaroo Island’s attractions await!

Want MORE?

  • More about Kangaroo Island HERE
  • More about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE
  • The original version of this article first appeared in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2021. For more interesting travel stories check out GlobeRovers HERE.

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Explore South Australia's Kangaroo Island

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My Top 7 Things to Do – Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/05/my-top-7-things-to-do-ormiston-gorge-central-australia/#comments Thu, 06 May 2021 08:05:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=71 NEW from RedzAustralia!

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]

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Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how!

A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.

135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.

Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!

1 Sunrise at Ghost Gum Lookout:

Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum at Ghost Gum Lookout, Ormiston Gorge

‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.

Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?

No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!

I’d just experienced it in a different spot.

Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge.  They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.

Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.

Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …

Dingo at Sunrise
Dingo at Sunrise

As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area.  Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.

Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.

Hunting for fish.

No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!

We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.

But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.

Na na nana nah!

2 Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk

Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Walls, Central Australia

This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights.  Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail.  That’s just part of the fun.

But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!

If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!

3 Larapinta LITE:

The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.

But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road.  It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.

Just can't have too much spinifex ... Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge
Just can’t have too much spinifex … Larapinta Trail, between Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge

We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track.  Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.

BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!

Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!

4 Glen Helen Gorge:

Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge Walls, Central Australia

The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!

Glen Helen Resort Piano
Glen Helen Resort Piano

But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.

Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.

And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!

5 Mt Sonder Lookout:

Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia
Mt Sonder Lookout, via Glen Helen, Central Australia

Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!

Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout
Finke River from Mt Sonder Lookout

And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!

There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it.  But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.

It’s a fine view in its own right.  And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.

6 Ormiston Gorge Campground:

Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia
Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia

The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.

So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.

Well, almost!

I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??

Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.

‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.

But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.

The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.

Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Campground & Amphitheatre from Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?

With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.

Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.

Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Ghost Gum Lookout Trail, Ormiston Gorge

Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?

And if so, what does that make US?

7 Ghost Gum Loop at Sunset:

Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Loop Trail at Sunset, Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall.  The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.

Ghost Gum Lookout - and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Ghost Gum Lookout – and sign!  Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.

But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!

Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset
Still Life with Dingo, Ormiston Gorge Sunset

Read More about Central Australia:

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COOL Things to Do in Kununurra, Western Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2020/05/top-10-cool-things-to-do-in-kununurra/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2020/05/top-10-cool-things-to-do-in-kununurra/#comments Wed, 27 May 2020 00:05:11 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3581 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early. As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek. Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good. A couple[...]

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Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Kimberley, Western Australia
Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Kimberley, Western Australia

The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early.

As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek.

Give Way! Crocodile crossing, Kununurra
Give Way! Crocodile crossing, Kununurra

Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good.

A couple of hours later, our lonesome loser neighbour finally dropped into a drunken stupor putting an end to both the impromptu musical experiment and our misery.

Two bleary-eyed hours drive west got us to the Northern Territory/Western Australia border (the flat tyre didn’t help) where we scored an extra 90 minutes, courtesy of the time difference between the NT and Western Australia. Making it about 9:00 am, WA time!

Half an hour later, the different world – make that universe – of our camp-site at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park on the shores of Lily Creek Lagoon – with lonesome losers noticeably absent – made an excellent base from which to explore the attractions of the East Kimberley.

And because we’d got there so early in the morning, we could get started on our long, long list of things to do in Kununurra and surrounds straight away.

Kellys Knob from the Ivanhoe Cafe, Kununurra
Kellys Knob from the Ivanhoe Cafe, Kununurra

Yes, camping in Kununurra is the best way to see it all – and there’s a LOT to see and do for independent travellers who like natural attractions.  We were planning a four-day stay – but ended up being there for 10!

SO … where to start?  Just use this list of my favourite things to do in Kununurra and start exploring!

I hope you enjoy them (and Kununurra!) as much as we did 😀

1 Kelly’s Knob and the Ivanhoe Café

It’s VERY convenient that the best view of Kelly’s Knob in Kununurra is from the Ivanhoe Café! Or is that just MY opinion??  If you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself spending a LOT of time at the cafe, especially during the heat of the day when exploring grinds to a halt.

That’s why the best time to visit Kununurra is during the Australian winter and Top End Dry Season, from about April to October.  But be warned … that’s also the busiest time!

Kellys Knob Lookout, Kununurra
View from Kelly’s Knob Lookout, Kununurra

After a session at the cafe, work off the spectacularly fabulous icecreams, smoothies and other goodies chock-a-block with awesome Kununurra produce by climbing to the vantage point at the top of Kelly’s Knob to get your bearings AND enjoy the spectacular view over the town and mountain ranges beyond. The landscape’s surprisingly green in this part of the East Kimberley, courtesy of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.

Pssst! The real view is even better than what you can see in the photo above!

Why the excellent Anzac Hill Lookout we stumbled upon just out of town heading west, and giving an entirely different perspective, doesn’t appear in any of the tourist information I’ll never know … track it down for yourself and see which one you prefer!

Fishing the Ord River below the Dam Wall, Lake Argyle
Fishing the Ord River below the Dam Wall, Lake Argyle

2 Ord River Adventureland

The East Kimberley’s natural attractions can so spectacular they overshadow its hazards. And that could be fatal in Kununurra – because while the Ord Irrigation Scheme has turned this harsh landscape into a food bowl thanks to the engineering marvel of the Ord River Dam, it didn’t get rid of the crocodiles!

Croc Warning Sign, Ivanhoe Crossing, Kununurra
Croc Warning Sign, Ivanhoe Crossing, Kununurra

There are plenty of reminders of the dangers along the river banks – but don’t let that stop you fishing for barramundi (does anyone bother with any other types of fish?); having a picnic; or even taking an upstream cruise for 57 kilometres to the Lake Argyle Dam Wall.

No boat? No problem! Local cruise operators will be happy to see you on board!

But no matter how hot it gets, don’t even THINK about going swimming!

3 Lake Argyle – the Inland Sea

The arid Carr Boyd Ranges near Kununurra probably aren’t where you’d imagine an inland sea over 1000 km² to be.

Lake Argyle, Kimberley, Western Australia
Lake Argyle, Kimberley, Western Australia

If that’s what you thought, you’d be right. Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, didn’t naturally occur. It was formed when the Ord River Dam was slapped across the river’s narrowest point in an incredible feat of engineering and construction that drowned valleys, pastoral leases and a whole mountain range!

Lake Argyle Scenic Public Loo Western Australia
One of the Lake Argyle Scenic Loos!

But the staggering scenery surrounding Lake Argyle is SO worth the ~70 km one way drive south-east from Kununurra back towards the WA/NT border we did it twice.  The first time was just to explore; the second for the must-do early morning cruise.

It’s also worth doing for the wildlife – over a third of Australia’s bird species can be found here at various times of the year.

Oh! And there’s also a proliferation of scenic public loos!

It’s said that the damming of the river means none of the large and deadly saltwater crocodiles live above the dam wall, although there have been sightings. But the absence of predators means there are a LOT more of the less dangerous freshwater crocodiles.

SO … if you’re crocodile-averse, don’t go in the water AND definitely don’t sign up for the annual Lake Argyle 10 or 20 km swimming races, held annually on the first Saturday in May!

4 Hunting the Wild Boab Trees

Australia’s only species of Boab tree grows almost exclusively – but plentifully – in the Kimberley. Even if you haven’t seen a Boab tree for real, its distinctive shape and silhouette appear in all the galleries – on paintings, prints, cards, carvings, photographs and jewellery. I’m still having withdrawal symptoms over the earrings that got away – how I managed to leave those brightly coloured glass squares with tiny Boab tree silhouettes in the shop remains a mystery to this day.

And now it’s too late … I can’t find them ANYWHERE on line 🙁

Boab Tree, Celebrity Tree Park, Kununurra
Red with Boab Tree, Celebrity Tree Park, Kununurra (pic by Pilchard)

Luckily, wild Boab trees are easy to find around Kununurra.

But if you haven’t got time for hunting, they’re also found in captivity – at the Kununurra Celebrity Tree Park at the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon. And although I couldn’t find a celebrity tree dedicated to Red Nomad OZ amongst those for notables such as John Farnham and Princess Anne, I’m sure it’s just a matter of time!

Isn’t it?!?!  Please say yes!

5 Lily Creek Lagoon and the Sleeping Buddha

Like its giant friend Lake Argyle, Lily Creek Lagoon on the outskirts of Kununurra isn’t natural. But it’s an awesome backdrop to a rock formation that looks (supposedly) like a Sleeping Buddha from the Celebrity Tree Park; and (even more supposedly) an Elephant’s head from the Zebra Rock Gallery’s vantage point just down the road.

The Sleeping Buddha, Kununurra
The Sleeping Buddha, Kununurra, Western Australia

It’s also a wildlife hotspot.

Of course it’s a helluva lot easier to go wildlife spotting on Lily Creek Lagoon when you’re camping right on its banks at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park campground like we were. By day, watch a variety of bird-life on and around the lagoon, including Comb-crested Jacana, also called the ‘Jesus bird’, hopping around on the lily pads; and the Crimson Finches hopping around on the banks – and at our campsite.

You might even get to take part in a real life rescue!  Like we did when a bird misjudged the length of a lily pad and slid into the water.  Did I mention the lagoon is full of fresh-water crocodiles?

Early Morning at Lily Creek Lagoon, Kununurra
Early Morning at Lily Creek Lagoon, Kununurra

Sunset brings the Sleeping Buddha to life – at least as much as is possible for a reclining figure – and the Lagoon dramatically reflects the sky’s RED glow.

But the night belongs to those crocodiles … take a torch and watch the RED glow glinting from their eyes if you dare!

6 Mirima National Park

Wondering when the selfie-taking joggers completely oblivious to the 3 metre snake sunning itself at their feet would either notice it or step on it was like watching a car crash.

Was it so wrong to have my camera ready?

Snake! Mirima National Park, Kununurra
Snake! Mirima National Park, Kununurra

Luckily (or unluckily, depending on whether you were them or me), neither happened, and the joggers jogged off into the sunrise to post what could have been a REALLY exciting update (read about that adventure HERE).

I waited for the snake to move so I could admire the view over Mirima National park from the top of the range vantage point on the Lookout Walk (no prizes for guessing why it’s called that!), one of four shortish walks showcasing the park’s attractions.

I can’t guarantee the excitement of a sunrise snake stand-off in the sandstone at Mirima, on the outskirts of the main Kununurra township. But you WILL see dramatic sandstone domes and valleys – smaller, but not unlike those of more well known Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles). So if you don’t have time to trek there, or the bucks for a helicopter flight, Mirima National Park is a cheaper, closer, and more charming alternative.

Mirima National Park Rock Domes, Kununurra
Mirima National Park Rock Domes, Kununurra

The top of the range view also overlooks Hidden Valley – and the Hidden Valley Tourist Park who I mention here because they were nice enough to put RedzAustralia at the very top of their TOP 10 Grey Nomad blogs (even thought I’m a RED Nomad)!

7 Ngamoowalem Conservation Park

En route to discover the Kununurra waterfalls, by the time we’d managed two of the conservation park’s four sites we’d already experienced a grumpy grey-nomad who should have stayed in bed; and a flamboyant four-wheel-driver developing some experimental techniques in what can only loosely be called ‘driving’ (read about that adventure HERE).

Black Rock Falls, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park
Black Rock Falls reflections, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park, via Kununurra

Who knows what other weird experiences we might have had if only our car had had enough clearance to visit the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park’s 3rd and 4th localities?

Valentine Springs via Kununurra, Western Australia
Valentine Springs via Kununurra, Western Australia

The spectacular setting amid the Livistonia Range means the springs and falls that make up the park run hot during the wet season. There wasn’t much water happening during our dry season visit – but that meant we could explore the rocks up close and admire the cluster of butterflies flitting through the undergrowth.

And wonder why Black Rock Falls was called Black Rock Falls!

It’s a shame we didn’t get to see Middle Spring and Molly Spring, but no matter.

The other visitors to Valentine Spring and Black Rock Falls had provided quite enough excitement for one day.

Besides – don’t they say you should always leave something for next time?

8 Killer Kununurra Producers!

There’s not a lot of point visiting the Ord River Irrigation zone without actually sampling the produce, right?

So we gave it our best shot.

Mango Smoothie Heaven, Kununurra
Mango Smoothie Heaven, Kununurra

A daily dose of something with mango in it – smoothies, cheesecakes, ice-cream, we weren’t fussy – from somewhere local – we weren’t fussy about that, either! We didn’t even care if they sold other products!

And so we did the rounds of the Zebra Rock Gallery Café; Lovells Gallery, Hoochery Distillery, the Sandalwood Factory and a number of Open Door outlets that sold Kununurra and Ord River Irrigation Scheme fresh produce!

Hard to believe, I know, but it’s not always all about cake 😀

9 Kununurra Agricultural Show

They say you always remember your first time. And the Kununurra Agricultural Show was where I lost it.

Thommos Toad, Kununurra Agricultural Show
Thommos Cane Toad, Kununurra Agricultural Show

My Cane Toad Race virginity, that is! (Read that awesome story HERE!)

The Cane Toad Race fund-raiser for Kununurra Wildlife Rescue topped the bill of weird and wonderful events celebrating rural life – with audience participation encouraged.

If you’ve never seen the Melon Olympics, where participants skate in watermelon shoes to throw honeydews into 44 gallon drums; a lawnmower race; the Kimberley Cowboy Challenge – a farmer’s daily life event multi-tasking race; and the Haystacking Challenge where a hapless volunteer perches atop an ever-growing stack of hay bales just before it topples then this is the place to be.

Winning the Hay-stacking Challenge, Kununurra Agricultural Show, Western Australia
Winning the Hay-stacking Challenge, Kununurra Agricultural Show, Western Australia

All accompanied by even more of that killer Kununurra produce!! Frozen chocolate-covered banana, anyone?

Experience all the fabulous fun for yourself at the Kununurra Agricultural Show on Friday 10th & Saturday 11th July, 2020!!  It’s the most fun you’ll have for $AUD20 (the 2020 cost of an adult admission).

10  Wyndham Rivers and Tides

Five Rivers Lookout via Wyndham, Western Australia
View from Five Rivers Lookout via Wyndham, Western Australia

It’s just over 100 km from Kununurra to Wyndham on the sealed main road, but the back route past Parry’s Lagoon takes you through stunning East Kimberley scenery (and more of those Boab Trees).  Stop at the lagoon for a wildlife extravaganza then continue to the small town of Wyndham with some of the highest tides in Australia, and the fantastic Five Rivers Lookout overlooking an incredible landscape.  Read more about things to do in Wyndham HERE.

11 Crocodile Spotting

Freshwater croc at Lake Argyle, WA
Freshwater croc at Lake Argyle, WA

Finding a crocodile in the East Kimberley is what’s generally known as a ‘sure thing’.  So take care when you find freshwater (the small ones) and/or saltwater crocodiles (the BIG scary ones) in Lake Argyle, both above and below the dam wall; in the Ord river; in any/all of Wyndham’s five rivers; in Parry’s Lagoon and right next to your campsite in Lily Lagoon.   Want more places to find crocodiles in Australia’s Top End?  Go HERE!

12 Sunset – Kimberley Style!

When you’ve enjoyed yourself to the max in the East Kimberley, max out a little bit more on a Kununurra Kimberley sunset. Sunset from pretty much anywhere will do, but our campsite by the lake gets my vote!

Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon

With nothing but the gentle hum of mosquitoes, plopping of crocodiles and chatter (and sometimes snoring!) of the Southern Grey Nomad to disturb you!

Sunset at the Golf Course, Kununurra, Western Australia
Sunset at the Golf Course, Kununurra, Western Australia

Staying in Kununurra (where 26º C is a COLD day) for any length of time puts the careless visitor in serious danger of having a food baby.  So it was just as well for us we left, albeit reluctantly, after 10 days!

The good news is that once you’ve seen the sights of Kununurra, there’s the rest of the awesome Kimberley Region to explore (Read my 7 Kimberley Random Adventures  HERE)!

Having trouble getting there?  Check out the best flights and get your Kununurra adventure off the ground NOW!

Want MORE?

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7 Days in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia – A Beginners Guide https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/flinders-ranges-south-australia-beginners-guide/#comments Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:49:45 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5628 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am. Praise be I’m in[...]

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Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am.

Praise be I’m in South Australia, so I’ve pretty much got that killer landscape all to myself!

St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
St Marys Peak from west of the ranges outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

St Mary’s Peak, 1171 metres (3842 ft) above sea level and highest point, is pretty low by world standards. But from the plains below, it soars to the apex of a 17 km (10.5 mile) stretch of jagged pinnacles forming the outer rim of Wilpena Pound, best known attraction in the Flinders Ranges.

Cars on the road below, dwarfed by these ancient landforms eroded over millenia to a fraction of their original size, will rust into oblivion before these timeless ranges turn to dust.

Yes, channelling my inner philosopher while travelling the folds and faults of the Adelaide Geosyncline forming these ranges is WAY too easy!

Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Ranges from the road between Hawker to Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

It’s also WAY too easy to admire the staggering scenery, especially because there’s no amazing view that can’t be enhanced by an awesome scenic loo! IMHO. But even if you’re not an amenities admirer or dunny detective like me, it’s got enough mountains, gorges, historic sites, wildflowers, rock formations, lookouts, 4WD tracks and wildlife to keep you busy.

VERY busy.

SO … if you HAVEN’T been here, you’ll be wondering where to start, right?

DON’T PANIC! All you need to do is keep reading!

This 7 Day Flinders Ranges itinerary is mostly based in the Central Flinders Ranges, and Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

That’s because I’m being gentle with you – after all, it’s your first time!

Dusk in Parachilna Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

There are LOTS of Southern, Northern and Central Flinders Ranges things to do, but you can’t do everything in 7 days, right? So I’ve made it it easy for you with a week’s worth of some of my favourite activities and attractions in three great Flinders Ranges destinations.

You can thank me later.

Ready? GO!

HOW to get there:

Get started by driving to Quorn, 335 km (208 miles) north of Adelaide in the Southern Flinders Ranges. Pick whichever self-drive route from Adelaide which appeals to you the most.

View from the Dutchman's Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Dutchman’s Stern Summit, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Route 1 – Food and Wine trail via Clare: drive 143 km (89 miles) to Clare (detour via the Barossa Valley on the way if you like), then 193 km (120 miles) to Quorn via Laura, Wirrabara and Wilmington.
  • Route 2 – Country South Australia: drive 216 km (134 miles) to Jamestown via Clare, then 148 km (92 miles) to Quorn via Orroroo and Wilmington (detour into Alligator Gorge near Wilmington if you like). Yes, this way is a bit longer.
  • Route 3 – Coastal Ports (tautology alert!) via Port Augusta: drive 306 km (190 miles) to Port Augusta via Port Wakefield, Port Pirie and Port Germein (add a few extra km for detours into the ports), then 41 km (25.5 miles)to Quorn.

Be WARNED: If you’re sightseeing along the way, getting to Quorn will take nearly a full day. To make the most of the Flinders Ranges, I suggest starting your trip a day early!

Choosing THINGS to DO:

Select from my lists of things to do in each destination. Attractions and activities are split into MUST DO – my suggested top picks; and MORE Things to DO – alternative/extra activities and attractions.

And for the most pleasurable places to do your business, look out for my *Scenic Loo alerts!

Days 1 and 2: Quorn and Southern Flinders Ranges

STAY: Quorn Caravan Park (Campground, Cabins). A range of other accommodation is available in and around Quorn including Motel, Hotel, Bed and Breakfast, Cottages and Air BnB

MUST DO in Quorn:

Steam Train on Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Pichi Richi Railway, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
  • Pichi Richi Railway – Half-day Steam Train tours leave from Quorn every weekend, so plan your trip accordingly and book ahead
  • Dutchman’s Stern – Hike the 10.5 km (6.5 mile) loop to the Dutchman’s Stern summit for spectacular views over the ranges and Gulf and fantastic Southern Flinders scenery
  • Buckaringa Gorge – Drive the ~80 km (50 miles) loop (some dirt roads) through classic Southern Flinders Ranges country and historic sites of interest to Buckaringa Gorge and Lookout

MORE Things to DO in Quorn:

  • HIKES: Devils Peak (1.3 km return); Warren Gorge (5.2 km loop – *Scenic Loo alert!); Mt Brown Summit Hike (15 km loop); Mt Brown Hike (11.6 km)
  • DRIVES: Alligator Gorge (via Wilmington – 55 km one way); Quorn/Port Augusta/Wilmington Loop (125 km loop, sealed roads)
  • QUORN: Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre; Heritage Walk (4.7 km); Quorn Native Flora Reserve (2 short walks); Cafés
MORE about the Quorn Region:
Kanyaka Ruins, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Days 3, 4, 5 – Wilpena Pound and Flinders Ranges National Park

On Day 3 drive 67 km (41.5 miles) to Hawker.

MUST DO en route to Hawker/Wilpena Pound:

  • Kanyaka Homestead and Death Rock – stop at these historic sites en route from Quorn to Hawker for insights into local colonial and indigenous heritage.
  • Wilpena Panorama – View this amazing 360º painting at Hawker’s Jeff Morgan Gallery of the summit view from Flinders Ranges highest point St Marys Peak (see trail notes below)

From Hawker, drive 52 km (32 miles) to Wilpena Pound.

View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from Hucks Lookout, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

STAY: Rawnsley Park Station (Campground,Cabins, Units, Eco-Villas); or Wilpena Pound Resort (Campground, Standard and Deluxe Rooms, Safari Tents). Other options including Station Stays and campgrounds in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park are also available in the area.

MUST DO at Wilpena Pound:

  • St Mary’s Peak – This strenuous hike (14.6 – 21.5 km (9-13.5 miles) depending on route taken) is a Flinders Ranges showpiece. But if you viewed the panorama in Hawker (see above), you already what’s to be seen from the summit! (ps I haven’t done this hike either).
  • Wilkawillina Gorge – Drive the 34 km (mostly dirt) past the Bunkers. The gorge hike is 11.4 km (7 miles) one way – even if you don’t do the whole walk, the scenery is spectacular.
The Bunkers, Wilkawillina Gorge
Why The Bunkers ROCK! Wilkawillina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park
  • Brachina Gorge – drive about 50 km (31 miles, mostly dirt) via the Bunyeroo Valley and Gorge then along Brachina Gorge’s Geological Time Tunnel with interpretive signs and lookouts, walks and classic outback scenery. Return the same way, or via the ABC range and main road. (*Scenic Loo alert!)
  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – 10 and 13 km (6.2 and 8 miles) from Wilpena Pound. Visit them en route to Wilkawillina or Blinman.
  • Bridle Gap – Part of the Heysen Trail, this 18.8 km return hike crosses the Pound and offers great views from the Bumbinyunna Range on the other side. Much of the hike is flat and easy going and is an alternative to the much more difficult St Mary’s Peak trail.
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Bunbinyunna Range from Bridle Gap overlooking Moralana Scenic Drive, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

MORE Things to DO at Wilpena Pound:

This is just a sampler of alternative activities – ask for more details at your accommodation.

  • HIKES: Hills Homestead (6.6 km); Wangara Lookout (7.8 km – incl Hills Homestead); Ferntree Falls (5.2 km); Pines Cave (5.4); Rawnsley Bluff (12.6 km)
  • HERITAGE: Old Wilpena Station, Sacred Canyon
  • DRIVE: Arkapena Track for Scenery and Lookouts, Moralana Scenic Drive
  • RIDE: Scenic Flights; Willow Springs Skytrek 4WD (self-drive and escorted tours); Mountain Biking on Mawson Trail
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Rocky Cliffs on Blinman Pools Hike, Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
MORE from the Central Flinders Ranges:
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Range at Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

Days 6 and 7 – Blinman and Angorichina

Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Blinman Pools Hike, via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia

On Day 6 drive 59 km (36.5 miles) north to Blinman.

MUST DO en route to Blinman:

  • Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – stop if you haven’t already seen these (see above)
  • Perawurtina Cultural Heritage Site – Adnyamathanha rock paintings and engravings
  • Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China – Interesting rocky outcrops, and yet another Great Wall – this one Flinders Ranges Style!

MUST DO at Blinman:

  • Blinman Underground Experience – the Blinman Mines Tour comes with a Sound & Light show, expert local commentary and a fascinating dose of the area’s mining and social history

Drive 14 km (8.7 miles) from Blinman to Angorichina Village.

STAY: Angorichina Tourist Village (Campground, Cabins and *Scenic Loo alert!). Alternatively, there’s a range of accommodation in Blinman including Hotel, Cottages, Station Stays

MUST DO at Angorichina:

  • Blinman Pools Hike – Follow Parachilna and Blinman Creeks through sheer cliff faces, gorges and rocky creek beds for 10 km (return) to 1st pool, then 1 km (return) to 2nd pool.
  • Glass Gorge – A 43 km loop via Blinman through the picturesque Glass Gorge
  • Nuccaleena Historic Mine Site – add another 34 km onto the Glass Gorge loop and visit this remote mine. This leg is 4WD on rough, rugged roads and station tracks.
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges
Nuccaleena Mine Ruins via Angorichina, Northern Flinders Ranges

MORE Things to DO at Angorichina:

  • HIKE: Heysen Trail – this 1200 km (745 mile) hike starts in Parachilna Gorge. You won’t have time to walk the whole trail (!), but take a 6 km return hike into the Gorge along the track to experience this part of the ranges
  • RIDE: Mountain Biking, 4WD tours
  • BLINMAN: Blinman Walking Trail (3.5 km); Cafes and Gallery, Mine Office
MORE about Blinman and Angorichina
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges

More Adventures

So … now your 7 days are up and it’s time to go. But the adventure isn’t over yet.

Return to Adelaide by driving 18 km through Parachilna Gorge to Parachilna (*Scenic Loo alert!)for a Feral Mixed Grill and a Fargher Lager!

A great end to a great week.

But the good news is that if you’re not yet ready to end your holiday, you can check out the things to do in Port Augusta on your way back!!

Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Scenic Loo, Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Flinders Ranges Fast Facts:

  • WHAT: The Flinders Ranges is a 430 km long region of mountain ranges in the South Australian Outback. It includes the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park; Vulkathanha-Gammon Ranges National Park, Mt Remarkable National Park, several Conservation Parks, many natural attractions and numerous sites of historic and cultural significance.
  • WHERE: The Flinders Ranges are north of Adelaide. From Adelaide, it’s 335 km (208 miles) to Quorn, 400 km (248 miles) to Hawker and 508 km (315 miles) to Blinman.
  • WHEN: The best time to go is from April to October. Temperatures in the hotter months of November to March can range from 30º – 45º C (86-113 F)
  • DRIVING: Self-drive is the easiest way to get around. PLEASE NOTE: some of the roads and trails described in this post require 4WD or high clearance. Please check road conditions and vehicle suitability before you drive.
  • FACILITIES:  Meals, groceries and other supplies are available in smaller centres such as Wilpena Pound Resort, Rawnsley Park Station, Blinman and Angorichina Tourist Village. Fuel is available at Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena Pound, Angorichina Tourist Village and Parachilna.

Want MORE?

View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
View from the Loo, Parachilna, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

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10 TOP Half Day Hikes in 10 HOT Australian Holiday Spots https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/10-half-day-hikes-in-hot-australian-holiday-spots/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/08/10-half-day-hikes-in-hot-australian-holiday-spots/#comments Tue, 08 Aug 2017 00:15:53 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5600 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’m SO not a hard-core hiker for lots of reasons. Wrong temperament. Wrong size. Wrong fitness level. And my holidays are NEVER just about the hike. Or hikes. But although I’m the world’s slowest hiker, I like my holidays served up with a bit of hiking on the side. So my holiday destinations have to give me a hiking workout[...]

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Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia
Mt Sonder from the Larapinta Trail, via Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

I’m SO not a hard-core hiker for lots of reasons. Wrong temperament. Wrong size. Wrong fitness level. And my holidays are NEVER just about the hike. Or hikes.

But although I’m the world’s slowest hiker, I like my holidays served up with a bit of hiking on the side. So my holiday destinations have to give me a hiking workout without feeling wrecked at the other end AND some different activities for when I’m over the hiking.

So my Top Ten half day hikes come packaged with their very own holiday destination. Hike to your heart’s content – but when you’re done, you’ll find plenty of different things to do.

PS Half day hikes often take me longer – so being the world’s slowest hiker will probably explain why you’re more likely to trek these trails faster than me!

1.  Kims Lookout Circuit, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

  • Where is it: Lord Howe Island is 600 km east of Sydney.
  • How to get there: Flights leave from Sydney and Port Macquarie.
  • When to go: Any time; September to June are most popular; July and August can be cold.
  • The Hike: 7 km Loop Trail; Moderate to Difficult
Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

Going places on Lord Howe Island generally means walking or cycling – so depending on where you’re staying, just getting to the trailhead near Ned’s Beachwill add some extra mileage (why isn’t ‘kilometerage’ a word?) to the distance.

Start climbing Malabar Hill straight away and soon you’ll have sweeping views down to Neds Beach on one side and Old Settlement and northern part of the island on the other. A little higher and you’ll see Mounts Gower and Lidgbird, Balls Pyramid, highest volcanic rock stack in the world, and the Admiralty Islands. That’s if you can bear to look over the sheer cliffs plunging down, STRAIGHT down into the ocean.

North Beach and Mt Eliza from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
North Beach and Mt Eliza from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

The track continues along the cliff tops (don’t look down!) to Kims Lookout with magnificent views over most of the island. Then it’s just a matter of heading down to the Max Nicholls track and back via Old Settlement Beach. Luckily, you’ll pass a cafe on the way!

Want MORE?
  • While you’re on Lord Howe Island: Highlights include Cruises around the Island, to the Reef, North Bay and Balls Pyramid; Hiking, Water Sports, Birding, Historic Museum. MORE about Lord Howe Island

2.  Bararranna Gorge, Arkaroola, South Australia

  • Where is it: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, 730 km north of Adelaide, Outback South Australia.
  • How to get there: Self-Drive on fully sealed roads to Copley, 600 km north of Adelaide. Arkaroola is 130 km north-east of Copley on an all weather dirt road.
  • When to go:  Anytime, but please note temperatures from November to March can be well above 30° C.  Contact Arkaroola if planning to travel during this time to avoid closures.
  • The Hike: Bararranna Gorge Loop Trail, 6.8 km, Moderate
Barraranna Riverbed Rock
Barraranna Riverbed ROCK! Arkaroola, South Australia

Actually, the hike can be a bit more than 6.8 km.

How much?

How far up the dramatic Bararranna Gorge you can get depends how much water is in Bararranna Waterhole.

Detour from the main trail to explore the gorge – an added extra to an already varied walk through a remote outback landscape scattered with waterholes, intriguing geological features (aka ‘rocks’) and wildlife.

Time passes quickly when you’re rock-hopping, admiring the dramatic cliffs, fossil-hunting and resting stopping for (endless) photos. Hunger and fatigue finally drove us back to the main track, where we finished the loop.

Only to find we’d doubled the suggested 3 hour walk time. But hey! We ARE the world’s slowest hikers!

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3.  Dales Gorge Circuit, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

  • Where is it: Karijini is 75 km East of closest town Tom Price; 1422 km north-east of Perth and 962 km south-west of Broome.
  • How to get there: Self Drive. Bitumen roads all the way on main routes; dirt roads throughout the Park.
  • When to go:  During dry season cooler months May to August; May and June are best
  • The Hike: Dales Gorge Loop combines all walks from Dales campground; ~4.5 km, moderate – Class 3 and 4, some steep sections with ladders
Dales Gorge and Fortescue Falls, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
Dales Gorge and Fortescue Falls, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

Could a track possibly lead safely down the sheer cliffs under the Three Ways Lookout to Circular Pool – 100 metres below? Of course! The REALLY steep bits have ladders! But the first part is the worst part as the track follows the winding river through groves of trees with steep RED rocky walls towering above. Actually, make that BEYOND red.

Circular Pool from Above, Karijini National Park
Circular Pool from Above, Karijini National Park

The river cascades down across treacherously slippery rock shelves as the trail winds steadily uphill towards Fortescue Falls.  Then it’s up even further to popular swimming hole, the Fern Pool. Take a break there, because it’s a steep climb out of the gorge and another 2 km back along the Gorge Rim trail to the Lookout trail head.

Just as well this remarkably scenic walk gives weary walkers plenty of reasons to stop – photos, bird watching, admiring the view – that don’t sound like ‘resting’!

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4.  Nelly Bay to Arcadia, Magnetic Island, Far North Queensland

  • Where is it: Magnetic Island is 8 km and a 20 minute ferry ride east of Townsville. The hike starts near the ferry terminal at Nelly Bay.
  • How to get there: Townsville is 1336 km north-west of Brisbane, and 347 km south-east of Cairns on fully sealed roads.
  • When to go: Anytime, but the wet season between November and April can be hot and humid.  Most popular time is during the Australian winter months June to August.
  • The Hike: Nelly Bay to Arcadia, 6 km + 2-3 km extra to walk from Arcadia back to Nelly Bay (local bus available), moderate
The mainland from the Nelly Bay to Arcadia walking trail, Magnetic Island, Queensland
The mainland from the Nelly Bay to Arcadia walking trail, Magnetic Island, Queensland

Experience life on a tropical island! AND see killer scenery from several vantage points overlooking island scenic hot spots and the mainland as the trail heads upwards through thick rainforest. It probably wouldn’t be anywhere near as tough a climb without the ever-present tropical humidity, but who cares with wildlife like Koalas and Black cockatoos on the trail?

Bottom view of Koala, Magnetic Island
Bottom view of Koala, Magnetic Island

After a detour to the Sphinx lookout, the walk ends at Arcadia aka Magnetic Island ‘suburbia’. Unless you extend the hike by taking the Junction Track to the Forts, Arthur Bay, and even Horseshoe Bay if you’ve still got the energy! Walk back to Nelly Bay – or take the regular bus service!

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5.  Jarnem Loop, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

  • Where: The Park is 3 km east of the WA/NT border; 203 km west of Timber Creek; 68 km east of Kununurra
  • How to get there: Self Drive on fully sealed roads from Timber Creek or Kununurra. Dirt roads throughout the park.
  • When to go:  Cooler months from May to August.  Seasonal closures due to flooding from November to April
  • The Hike: Jarnem Loop Trail, 7 km, Moderate
Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

The weirdly striped sandstone domes lining the Jarnem Loop trail and filling much of the landscape beyond are often described as a ‘Lite’ version of the more well known Bungle Bungles. But whether or not that’s true, the view from the fantastic 360° lookout over ranges and plains is anything but Lite!

The trail winds back down to a palm-lined valley getting much closer to the wind-scoured layers and shapes of the rounded domes. Along the creek line are caverns with Aboriginal rock art, then the trail returns to the picnic area.  And although it was peak tourist season, we had it all to ourselves!

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6.  Mt Abrupt, Grampians, Victoria

  • Where: Mt Abrupt is in the Southern Grampians near Dunkeld, 280 km west of Melbourne
  • Getting there: Self-Drive to Gariwerd (Grampians National Park) and the Grampians Region on fully sealed roads. Dunkeld is 64 km south of the more central Halls Gap.
  • When to go:  Anytime. Spring (Sept – Nov) best for wildflowers.
  • The Hike: 6.5 km return, Moderate to Difficult.
Signal Peak and the Serra Range from Mt Abrupt Summit Trail

It’s got one of the most spectacular views of the wilder parts of the Grampians, but the view of Mt Abrupt’s forbidding sheer cliffs from Dunkeld make it look a LOT more difficult to climb than it really is. The trailhead starts just north of Dunkeld and climbs steadily through the bushland. After passing Signal Peak, the views unfold all the way to the summit over the Victoria Range and Valley, Serra Range, Southern plains and Dunkeld.

Returning via the same route means a chance to catch up on the photos you were too knackered to take on the way up!

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7.  Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland

  • Where is it: 220 km (136 miles) north-west of the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, between Cloncurry and Normanton;
  • How to get there: Self-Drive. Take National Route 83 from Cloncurry. At the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, take State Route 84 – the Wills Development Road – to Gregory Downs. Boodjamulla is 100 km from Gregory Downs on a dirt road.
  • When to go:  Dry season from May to October.  Roads can be impassable during the wet.
  • The Hike: Several Hikes from 2-7 km, varying degrees of difficulty. The combined hike suggestion below is about 8 km, moderate to difficult.
Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

It takes more than one walk to do Lawn Hill justice and discover everything this stunning blend of towering red cliffs, crystal clear water, palms, bushland, crocodiles, spa-like cascades, lookouts, giant carp and magnificent vistas has to offer. Chances are it’ll be HOT whatever time of year you’re there – and if you’ve come all this way you’d be mad to leave without seeing it all. So combine some of the shorter walks into a longer hike – or avoid heatstroke, stay a few days and do them one by one!

Lawn Hill Gorge Rim
Lawn Hill Gorge Rim

That way you’ll have time for the other activities!

But for the full experience in just one day, start early and take the Middle Gorge track to Duwadarri and Indarri Lookouts. Return the same way, or take the loop down the cliffs and back to the campground. Then do the Island Stack loop, and finish up by taking the Cascades detour – may as well have a natural spa before returning to the campground.

And don’t say I didn’t tell you to stay an extra day!

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8.  Mt Kosciuszko Summit, via Jindabyne, New South Wales

 

View over Lake Cootapatamba, Australia's highest lake, Kosciuszko Track
View over Lake Cootapatamba, Australia’s highest lake, Kosciuszko Track
  • Where is it: The Mt Kosciuszko summit can be reached either from Thredbo, 212 km south-west of Canberra; or Jindabyne, about 34 km from Thredbo.
  • Getting There: A number of routes access Thredbo, Jindabyne and the Kosciuszko National Park. The best route will depend from which direction you’re heading.
  • When to go:  Anytime, but the track is generally snowbound from June to October – you can reach the summit on cross-country skis or snowshoes, but the track had no snow poles.
  • The Hike: 13 km return, Class 3 Moderate (from Thredbo); or alternatively18.6 km return, Class 3 Moderate (from Charlotte Pass).

En route from Thredbo to Mt Kosciuszko’s summit (Australia’s highest mountain), you’ll see Charlotte Pass (Australia’s highest permanent settlement) where Australia’s lowest temperature (-23° C) was recorded, Australia’s highest lake (Lake Cootapatamba) and Australia’s highest Public Loo (Rawsons Pass).

Kosciuszko National Park from Mt Kosciuszko Summit
Kosciuszko National Park from Mt Kosciuszko Summit

A long ride up the Kosciuszko Express chair lift from Thredbo quickly knocks off 600 metres of altitude.  Then it’s a 6.5 km undulating walk to the summit on a specially constructed raised walkway protecting the fragile alpine vegetation beneath. Congratulations! You’ve climbed a Seven Summits peak!!

Hard to believe that back in the good old days you could drive nearly to the top – so the trickiest part of your climb will be to convince everyone how difficult it was!

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9.  Ormiston Gorge and Pound, Central Australia, Northern Territory

  • Where is it: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges National Park, 135 km west of Alice Springs.
  • How to get there: Self-Drive on fully sealed roads from Alice Springs.
  • When to go:  Anytime, but April to October is best for hiking.
  • The Hike: Ormiston Gorge and Pound Loop, 7 km, Moderate
Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, West MacDonnell Ranges
Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk, West MacDonnell Ranges

Every kilometre the scenery changed. A steep gorge gave way to a hillside dotted with wildflowers and stunning views of Mount Sonder before descending into a spinfex-strewn valley leading up onto a scree-strewn saddle to a lookout over the Pound, ringed with rugged ranges. Down into the pound, across two creeks, then rock-hopping the gorge, red walls towering above us.

At the end of the gorge – only a kilometre to go – recent rain meant the final creek was running higher than usual. Sadly, I hadn’t yet mastered the art of levitation, so I chose to wade through the frigid water – a kilometre in wet underwear WAY better than a 6 km back-track! If you get lucky and don’t need to choose, I say you’ll be missing a super-COOL experience!

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10.  Deep Creek Cove, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

  • Where is it: Deep Creek Conservation Park is on the Fleurieu Peninsula, 108 km south of Adelaide
  • How to get there: Self Drive along Main South Road from Adelaide, about 1.5 hours.
  • When to go:  March – May and September – November.  Summer (Dec – Feb) is dry and hot with temperatures from 30-35.  Winter (Jun – Aug) is wet, so tracks can be slippery.
  • The Hike: Deep Creek Cove from Trig Picnic Area, 6.4 km return, Moderate
Deep Creek Conservation Park Coastline, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Deep Creek Conservation Park Coastline, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Deep Creek Cove is accessible from two points: a moderate, but longer hike from Trig Picnic Area, and a shorter, more difficult hike from Tappanappa Lookout. But for us, two attempts = two FAILS and I’ve NEVER reached the Cove!

On our first attempt (via Trig) I was off work after an eye operation so we’d decided to explore. That was wrong. VERY wrong. And you’ll be glad to know I was punished for breaking the sick leave rule by actual illness when my eye turned to the dark side and I couldn’t finish the hike. My bad.

‘Where are those explosions coming from?,’ I wondered aloud to Pilchard on our 2nd attempt from Tappanappa as we started down the hill. ‘I didn’t know there was a quarry in the area’. Turns out there wasn’t and the explosions we heard were actually thunderclaps heading our way. So we abandoned the hike, scuttled back to the car and leftf the park before the rains hit the dirt roads.

The Deep Creek Cove hikes and several others (including the Deep Creek waterfall hike which I actually HAVE done), combine to make up the 10.9 (and much more difficult) Deep Creek Circuit. And at this rate it’ll only take me another 10 years to finish it all.

In the meantime, if YOU get to Deep Creek Cove before I do, let me know what it’s like!

Want MORE?

 

Mt Abrupt from Dunkeld Arboretum
Mt Abrupt in the Morning, from Dunkeld Arboretum

There are lots more hikes in Australia and I know I’ve probably missed some good ones.  What’s YOUR favourite half day hike holiday hot spot?

Like it? SHARE it!  

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Amenities, Attractions and Axe Murderers at Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/07/australias-scenic-loos-whyalla-conservation-park-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/07/australias-scenic-loos-whyalla-conservation-park-south-australia/#comments Sun, 23 Jul 2017 07:12:23 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5552 NEW from RedzAustralia!

He probably wasn’t an axe murderer. I mean, skidding into the carpark in a cloud of dust, ‘Uptown Girl’ blaring from the stereo, and parking well away from the only other car in the car park? Despite my lack of hands-on experience with axe murderers, I was pretty sure this wasn’t archetypal behaviour. Was it? But through the clouds of[...]

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Wild Dog Hill Rock formations, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Wild Dog Hill Rock formations, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

He probably wasn’t an axe murderer.

I mean, skidding into the carpark in a cloud of dust, ‘Uptown Girl’ blaring from the stereo, and parking well away from the only other car in the car park?

Despite my lack of hands-on experience with axe murderers, I was pretty sure this wasn’t archetypal behaviour.

Was it?

Amenities, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Amenities, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

But through the clouds of red dust partially obscuring our view of the intruder from our vantage point half way up Wild Dog Hill, I couldn’t help wondering.

Was it just a coincidence that he’d arrived here in the wilds of the otherwise deserted Whyalla Conservation Park car park right after we did??

And apart from listening to an outdated, albeit entertaining, 80’s play list (by now BJ had switched to ‘Call Me’), he wasn’t doing ANY of the things on the Whyalla Conservation Park attractions checklist.

The longer we watched the longer the list of things he WASN’T doing got. More specifically, as Blondie switched to ‘Funky Town’, he wasn’t:

  • having a picnic OR

    Wildflowers of Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
    Wildflowers of Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
  • drinking (alcohol or otherwise);
  • hunting the elusive Western Grasswren, OR
  • trying to spot any other (feathered) birds;
  • taking photos;
  • checking out the rock formations;
  • walking the track around the base of Wild Dog Hill OR
  • hiking the 1.5 km loop trail to the summit of Wild Dog Hill;
  • reading the interpretive signs about arid land plant adaptation OR
  • admiring the diversity of sometimes rare arid land plants in the park; OR
  • just looking for wildflowers and rare lichens OR
  • Western Myall and Bluebush spotting (Note: sightings of both these arid land plant species in the Whyalla Conservation Park is what’s known as a ‘sure thing’)
Western Myall at Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park
Western Myall at Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park

Which pretty much covered off on the Park’s ‘Main Attractions’ list!

He also wasn’t

  • waiting for anyone.

Other than a possible imaginary friend. Because although he changed into a different T shirt shortly after arriving, no one else showed up.

Which, according to the axe-murderer avoidance manual, was probably a good thing.

Because being the only witnesses to a drug drop or illicit liaison mostly isn’t a story that ends well.

Especially so if you use the ‘I-didn’t-see-a-thing-I-really-only-used-these-binoculars-around-my-neck-for-bird-watching-not-to-watch-you-no-really’ defence.

Carpark from Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Carpark from Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

Only 10 km north of – yes, you guessed right – Whyalla, on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, the dirt track from the main road through the 2000 hectare Whyalla Conservation Park leads through a landscape lifted straight from the remote Outback.

That means the public loo in the picnic area, a few kilometres over a rough, rocky road from the main entrance, simulates a remote Outback dunny almost exactly.

So even though Iron Triangle town Whyalla isn’t that far away AND you can see the coast from the expansive 360° view at the top of Wild Dog Hill, the (mostly) trackless arid landscape makes an outstanding Outback outhouse setting.

View from Wild Dog Hill Summit, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
View from Wild Dog Hill Summit, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

Plonk an alien (or clueless tourist) down there and they’d think they’d landed on Mars.

But despite its impressive credentials, our carpark companion hadn’t driven all the way out here to visit the loo either.

Because by the time we reached Wild Dog Hill’s summit and Pseudo Echo had switched to (strangely appropriate) 500 Miles, I could see he also wasn’t:

  • scenic-loo-spotting OR
  • scenic-loo-using.

No, my psychic powers hadn’t turned hyperactive. The only track I could see leading through the scrub from the picnic area was the path to the dunny, and he wasn’t on it.

Loo from Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Loo from Wild Dog Hill, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

Besides, the Proclaimers had switched to ‘Reckless’ and if I could hear it from way up on Wild Dog Hill, then it must have been dynamite right next to the car. He sure wasn’t leaving THAT excitement just to take a pee! Or to do anything else other than wander aimlessly around in the scrub near the parking area.

But maybe.  Just maybe he’d seen the empty car and figured we’d return sooner or later. And that’s when he’d make his move!

Australian Crawl faded away behind us as the track led down the other side of Wild Dog Hill and around its base en route to the scenic loo.

Wild Dog Hill Rocks, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Wild Dog Hill Rocks, Whyalla Conservation Park

And back to the car – tyres un-slashed, windscreen unbroken, locks intact. And ‘All Out of Love’ – possibly the most inoffensive, innocuous, insipid 80’s song EVER echoing through the car park.

It seems our conservation park comrade also wasn’t:

  • otherwise indulging in axe-murderish behaviour OR
  • interested in us AT ALL.

So OK.

If you’re thinking I’m showing the signs of early-onset (or perhaps advanced) paranoia, just remember that no one thought Wolf Creek was sinister either until the movie!

But as we drove the 65 km back to our campsite in Port Augusta I developed a working theory.

The Whyalla Conservation Park is no Wolf Creek (see link below) but if anything DID happen out there amidst the bluebush and western myall trees, there’d be no one to hear you scream.

Although listening to a few eighties hits might be pleasantly nostalgic, a prolonged overdose in a confined space could easily bring on a screaming fit.

Or worse.

So what’s a not-so-sinister-somebody hanging out for an eighties-music-hit who’s lives in a zero-tolerance household to do?

Yep, you got it.

Rocks at Wild Dog Hill Summit, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia
Rocks at Wild Dog Hill Summit, Whyalla Conservation Park, South Australia

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Catchya at Copley! Things to Do and See in Outback South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/copley-things-to-do-outback-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/06/copley-things-to-do-outback-south-australia/#comments Tue, 13 Jun 2017 12:04:00 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5440 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Catchya at Copley!* We leaped from the car and hit the ground running as a convoy of 4WDs pulled into the car park behind us. Car doors slammed. They were gaining on us, but we were still a few vital seconds ahead as we slid through the door and reached the counter first. And that’s exactly where I needed to[...]

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Copley Sunset, Outback South Australia
Copley Sunset, Outback South Australia

Catchya at Copley!*

We leaped from the car and hit the ground running as a convoy of 4WDs pulled into the car park behind us. Car doors slammed. They were gaining on us, but we were still a few vital seconds ahead as we slid through the door and reached the counter first.

And that’s exactly where I needed to be to score one of the Quandong Café’s legendary quandong pies this late in the day.

Play fair? No way! Because if I missed out, things would’ve gotten UGLY. So as the wave of humanity washed up around me, I deployed my secret weapon.

That’s what ‘elbows’ are for, right?’

Flat Top, Copley, Outback South Australia
Flat Top, Copley, Outback South Australia

540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide and deep in the South Australian Outback isn’t where you’d normally expect to find an oasis of civilisation.  After all, it’s the driest place in the driest state of the driest continent on earth

But the small town of Copley is no ordinary place. The Copley Caravan Park managers (and café owners!) made it easy to base ourselves there for a few days to discover its hidden secrets.  Like us, you might just find that the longer you stay, the longer you WANT to stay!

Not just to sample those fine quandong pies again. Or check out the array of Outback Scenic Loos!

Here’s a few of my favourite Copley things to do in a handy 4-9 Day itinerary.  Look out for the *STAY Another Day! signs for optional extra days if you’d like to extend your stay!

You’re welcome!!

Day 1: Explore Copley

Aroona Dam Sanctuary
Aroona Dam Sanctuary, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Aroona Dam Sanctuary, via Copley, Outback South Australia

I never saw the ‘before’ picture.

Back in the 1990’s, a 200+ person community project turned 44 km² of once-degraded bushland around the 5000 megalitre Aroona Dam into a Sanctuary. So now all you’ll see is the ‘after’ picture – the stunning scenery of the northern Flinders Ranges AND a scenic Aussie Loo!

All this makes the sanctuary a cool place to hang out, have a picnic, take a walk and spot the wildflowers. If you get lucky, you could also spot one of the yellow-footed rock wallabies reintroduced into the area.

The Retention Dam
The Retention Dam, Copley, Outback South Australia
The Retention Dam, Copley, Outback South Australia

It’s a tough choice between fishing and bird-watching so at the Retention Dam just out of town heading north.  So it’s just as well you can do BOTH.

Or neither!

Climb Flat Top

It’s big. It’s RED. It’s just out of town – and visible from pretty much everywhere in Copley. And if you can’t work out what the locals call a small mountain with its top sliced off, you’re just not trying.

Welcome to Flat Top (see photo above). There’s no marked walking track, but don’t let that stop you – the views from the top are sensational! Not that energetic? Walk around below it. Not THAT energetic? Sit out the front of the cafe and watch everyone else walking up or around it!!

Find the Head
The 'Face' - back in the ranges behind Copley, South Australia
The ‘Head’ – back in the ranges behind Copley, South Australia

To really experience the environment in which towns like this survive, drive up into the ranges west of Copley.

Better still, stop the car and take a walk along these remote country roads.

Expect a surprising array of wildflowers (in season), a starkly beautiful Outback landscape full of amazing colour, and a different perspective of Copley from the lookout point high above.

And the HEAD. But only if you get REALLY lucky 😀

Day 2: THREE Iconic Aussie Tracks in ONE DAY!

Yes, you CAN drive the Strzelecki, Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks in a day. And you don’t need a special rig, or even a 4WD to do it!

No, REALLY – as long as you don’t expect to actually drive the full length of each track, that is! But you can visit each starting point, and you can easily do it in one day from Copley.

AND see a lot of other great Outback attractions along the way.

Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia
On the Strzelecki Track, via Lyndhurst, South Australia
Lyndhurst

Just 33 km north of Copley, you’ll find a bush philosopher’s gallery, an unexpected lake and famous bushranger Captain Starlight’s legacy.  They’re all wrapped up in the tiny town of Lyndhurst.

Drive out onto the Strzelecki Track’s tyre-shredding rock and stone ‘road’.  You’re now on the original route Harry Readford – aka Captain Starlight – used to drive 1000 stolen cattle from Queensland to Lyndhurst.

MORE about Lyndhurst and the Ochre Pits HERE

PS Don’t miss the scenic public loo!

Ochre Pits

Want a great sunset shot?

Then leave the Ochre Pits a few kilometres north of Lyndhurst for the return trip to Copley. The late afternoon sun makes the amazing colours of this Indigenous heritage site glow.  Like this.

Ochre Pits at Sunset, via Lyndhurst, Outback South Australia
Ochre Pits at Sunset, via Lyndhurst, Outback South Australia
Farina – The Back-of-Beyond Bakery
Angels Rest, once a brothel in Farina, Outback South Australia
Angels Rest, once a brothel in Farina, Outback South Australia

I couldn’t believe my luck when I saw the ‘Bakery Now Baking’ sign on the side of the dusty road just 24 km north of Lyndhurst. It HAD to be an antique. Didn’t it?

Actually, no. You CAN combine outback travel with FAAAAABULOUS food!

How? Because in an astonishingly civilised move by the Farina Restoration Society, Farina’s derelict Bakery was the first building in this historic ghost town to be reconstructed. Now it operates for around 8 weeks a year raising funds to restore more of the Farina historic site.

Wander the open air museum, strolling the walking tracks or visiting the campground’s scenic loo combined with awesome goods baked on the premises.  That’s a killer way to make history fun.

And it’s all the better for knowing my significant personal contribution to the bakery fundraiser will account for a LOT more upgrades!!

MORE about Farina Bakery HERE

*STAY Another Day – Day #5! Return to Farina and book the 3-4 hour Farina Springs tour.  Travel in the Farina Station 4WD or Tag-along – the bakery will still be there when you get back!

Clockwise from Left:  Afghan Cameleers Monument; Tom Kruse’s Mail Truck; Lake Eyre Yacht Club;
Railway Memorabilia from the Ghan at the Marree Railway Station
Marree and the Postal Delivery Route from Hell

If you can tear yourself away from the fleshpots of Farina and drive another 45 km up the road, you’ll find remote outback town Marree.  It’s at the end of the Old Ghan railway line and start of the legendary Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks.

Actually, ‘legend’ is a word that’s used a lot around Marree.

Especially about Tom Kruse, the (legendary) outback mailman.  His (legendary) adventures delivering mail along the 517 km of rocks, sand dunes and gibbers that make up the (legendary) Birdsville track in his (legendary) Leyland Badger Truck were immortalised in a (legendary) movie “The Back of Beyond”.

Experience the legend yourself, at least for a few minutes. Drive a short way along the Oodnadatta and Birdsville tracks which, together with Lyndhurst’s Strzelecki, mean you’ve travelled on three legendary Aussie roads.

Two Iconic OZ tracks meet at Marree
Two Iconic OZ tracks meet at Marree

In ONE DAY!

MORE about Marree HERE

Now all you have to do is drive back to Copley. The setting sun should be lighting up the Ochre Pits right around now 😀

*STAY Another Day – Day #6! Drive back to Marree, then have a longer experience on the Birdsville Track and drive about 50 km to Clayton Station.

*STAY Another Day – Day #7! Alternatively, take a drive on Witchellina Nature Reserve. Three 4WD nature drives show you the rugged outback at its best.

Day 3: Wilderness Adventure

Saying Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is an eco-adventure wonderland is a bit like saying Uluru is quite a big rock.

There are the painted hills surrounding the tourist village and stunningly scenic hikes through amazing gorges and chasms.  Super-challenging 4WD tracks through wild mountain ranges and historic sites and astronomical marvels courtesy of unpolluted skies.  Arkaroola is a total outdoor adventure package surrounded by the best collection of geological marvels in Australia.

Yes, it’d take more than just a day trip to see all THAT!

Coulthard Lookout, Arkaroola, Outback South Australia
Coulthard Lookout, Arkaroola, Outback South Australia

But if you want to see the very BEST of Arkaroola and you’ve only got a day to spare, then book in to the AMAZING Ridge-top Tour.  It’s a 4.5 hour drive to Sillers Lookout through rugged ranges on rough tracks in a purpose built 4WD tour vehicle. Be warned though – to do this in a day, you’ll have to leave early to get there in time! But it’s SO worth it!

MORE about Arkaroola’s Ridge-top Tour HERE!

Luckily, Arkaroola has its own campground with powered and unpowered sites. But if your rig’s not up to the 130 km all-weather dirt road east of Copley, leave it at the Copley Caravan Park and stay in one of the lodges or cabins. And if your vehicle isn’t up to it, leave that at Copley as well and hire a 4WD!

MORE about Arkaroola HERE

Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout
Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour

*STAY Another Day – Day 8! The road to Arkaroola can be an interesting day trip in itself.  There are Indigenous Cultural tours run by the local Adnyamathanha people at Iga Warta, Italowie Gorge walking trail and picnic area, views over Lake Frome and Grindells Hut in the Gammon Ranges.

Day 4: History and Heritage

Outback Road via Copley, South Australia
Outback Road via Copley, South Australia

As we sped, bouncing and bumping over a stretch of road so rocky I was practically levitating, I felt grateful for just one thing.

Praise be we weren’t travelling in OUR car!

But our travelling companion’s 4WD managed the drive south of Copley without mishap. As we drove a network of dirt tracks through the stunning northern Flinders Ranges, we explored some significant sites in South Australia’s colonial history.

Ruins near Puttapa Gap, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Ruins near Puttapa Gap, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Puttapa Gap

You won’t see anything much just driving through the gap where the old Transcontinental Railway line once ran through the ranges en route to Beltana.

Stop the car and discover some of the old structures around the rock cutting and the classic outback country through which it once ran.

Beltana

Shifting the railway line a few kilometres away was the end of the viability of State Heritage Area town Beltana, built in 1870. The town is still inhabited, but an interpretive trail leads past some of the remaining building ruins.  These include the old Dunesk Mission building with links to the Rev. John Flynn, instrumental in founding the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Sliding Rock
Sliding Rock Scenic Loo, via Copley, Outback South Australia
Sliding Rock Scenic Loo, via Copley, Outback South Australia

22 km further on along that rocky stretch of road above is the ruins of a copper ore mine at Sliding Rock.  It’s got the only combination loo/visitor information depot I’ve EVER seen in OZ!

This remote State Heritage listed site with its duelling chimneys – one round (Cornish) and one square (Welsh) – hunks of copper ore and picturesque setting is a great place to explore.

*STAY Another Day – Day 9! Return to Sliding Rock and keep going to the privately owned Warraweena Conservation Park with its own campground and series of self-drive 4WD tracks.

Northern Flinders Ranges near Copley, Outback South Australia
Northern Flinders Ranges near Copley, Outback South Australia

SO … with its amazing array natural attractions, small towns, historic sites, hikes, self-drive tours, wildflowers, scenic loos AND the opportunity for Bakery mega-overload, Copley just might be the ultimate accessible Outback destination!

Copley Caravan Park, Outback South Australia
Copley Caravan Park, Outback South Australia

FAST FACTS

  • Where:  Copley is 540 km (336 miles) north of Adelaide in the Northern Flinders Ranges
  • Stay:  Copley Caravan Park, or nearby Leigh Creek Caravan Park.  Other campgrounds are at Lyndhurst, Farina, Marree, Arkaroola, Warraweena
  • When:  The best time to travel is from May to October when temperatures are cooler and more attractions are open
  • How to get there:  Self Drive is the best option.

Want MORE?

*The phrase “Catchya at Copley” is from the excellent tourist brochure produced by the Copley Caravan Park.

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See Australia Month by Month Part Two: July to December Travel Teasers! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/04/see-australia-month-by-month-part-two-july-to-december-travel-teasers/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/04/see-australia-month-by-month-part-two-july-to-december-travel-teasers/#comments Wed, 26 Apr 2017 13:07:45 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5374 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Wondering how you’re EVER going to see as much of Australia as I have?  Trust me, travelling OZ is SO worth it!  And if you need reasons to do it other than the stunning natural attractions, amazing Aussie experiences and fabulous holiday destinations, take a look at these 25 science-backed health benefits of travel HERE. Here’s HOW to get your[...]

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Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Wondering how you’re EVER going to see as much of Australia as I have?  Trust me, travelling OZ is SO worth it!  And if you need reasons to do it other than the stunning natural attractions, amazing Aussie experiences and fabulous holiday destinations, take a look at these 25 science-backed health benefits of travel HERE.

Here’s HOW to get your Aussie travels under way so you can see Australia AND start reaping those health benefits RIGHT NOW!

You CAN see a LOT of Australia by using the simple 3-step program I showed you in Part 1 (Right HERE if you missed it) whenever you have a week (or two) to spare – in ANY month of the year.

Here’s what to do with that free week (or two)

  1. Choose a region you haven’t been to yet.
  2. Escape with some cheap flights, beg/borrow (but don’t steal) a camper, jump in the car, or let someone else do the driving and take a tour.
  3. GO! Then next time you’ve got a week (or two) off, do it all again.

Yep, that’s how it’s done.  And Part One gave you some travel teasers for if your week (or two) off fell during January to June. Now here’s a whole new set of travel teasers for July to December!

You’re welcome!

July: The RED Kimberley

Roebuck Bay, Broome, Western Australia
Roebuck Bay, Broome, Western Australia
#13  Broome, Western Australia

Broome’s vivid red and startling blue colour palette is the perfect antidote to a dreary southern-Aussie winter. Factor in a clutch of tropical attractions like semi-deserted beaches, fresh tropical produce (across a varied multicultural menu) and killer sunsets, and it’s hard to beat as the perfect July destination. The dinosaur footprints, brewery and world’s oldest operating picture gardens with a super-cool scenic loo are just a bonus!

MORE about Broome HERE

Reflections at Black Rock Falls, via Kununurra, Western Australia
Reflections at Black Rock Falls, via Kununurra, Western Australia
#14  Kununurra, Western Australia

If you like wilder, redder rocks, then the east Kimberley’s Kununurra delivers with red rock domes in Kununurra’s Mirima National Park; the Sleeping Buddha of Lily Lagoon – and a whole mountain range buried under the mega-ultra-massive Lake Argyle, 10 times bigger than Sydney Harbour and full of crocodiles. This dam above the Ord River scheme also delivers a whole range of fresh produce – just perfect for siesta time in the hottest part of the day!

MORE about Kununurra HERE

There’s a whole lot more to see and do in the Kimberley outside of Broome and Kununurra – read MORE about the Kimberley HERE!

August: Outback

Eagle Bluff, via Denham, Shark Bay, Western Australia
Eagle Bluff, via Denham, Shark Bay, Western Australia
#15  Shark Bay, Western Australia

Outback? On the COAST? You betcha! Shark Bay is where the outback meets the sea with a wild and weathered coastline enclosing warm waters filled with an exciting array of wildlife: think sharks, dugongs, stingrays – and dolphins! The whole bay is a diverse World Heritage area: think Hamelin Pool Stromatolites – oldest known living organisms; Steep Point – westernmost point of mainland OZ; Dirk Hartog Island National Park; and the oldest recorded site of European contact!

MORE about Shark Bay HERE

Castle, Lightning Ridge
Amigo’s Castle, Lightning Ridge, New South Wales
#16  Lightning Ridge, New South Wales

Go straight to the top of Opal Mining Town weird and wonderful and check out the fantastically quirky Lightning Ridge, Black Opal capital of the WORLD! If the allure of the Chambers of the Black Hand or the world’s only black opal mining cactus farmers don’t do it for you, then fossick yourself a gem (or ‘find’ a piece of opal in one of the many shops), check out the awesome Outback Art or soak away that stress in a HOT artesian bath!

MORE about Lightning Ridge and other Australia’s Opal Mining HOT Spots HERE

September: Rocks

Bald Rock Granite and View
Bald Rock Granite and View
#17  Tenterfield, New South Wales

Climbing Bald Rock, Australia’s largest Granite Monolith is just one reason Tenterfield makes a great base for exploring New England, the Northern Rivers and Granite Belt Region, just across the border in Queensland. It’s not just about the stunning National Park and self-drive tour scenery – explore local villages, visit cellar doors and local producers, and discover historic sites – it’s home of Peter Allen, the Boy from OZ. And don’t miss Tenterfield’s famous Federation Pie – it’s quite possibly the best downunder!

MORE about Tenterfield HERE and MORE about Bald Rock HERE

The Bunkers, Wilkawillina Gorge
Why The Bunkers ROCK! Wilkawillina Gorge, Flinders Ranges National Park
#18  Flinders Ranges, South Australia

This ancient landscape in the remote South Australian outback is the original time-tunnel where the exposed layers of Brachina Gorge take you back – WAAAAAY back – through millenia of earth’s pre-history . But it’s not just a geologist’s paradise, it’s an adult adventureland of rugged ranges with 4WD tracks to historic mine sites, mountain climbing, hiking, mountain biking and cycling; horse and camel riding; and self-drive tours to some of the best scenery in OZ

MORE about the Flinders Ranges HERE

Like Rocks?  Australia is the right place to be!  Check out more of Australia’s rocky HOT Spots!

MORE about Australia’s other Rock Stars HERE

October: Wildflowers

Nature's Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia
Nature’s Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia
#19  Kalbarri, Western Australia

The floral equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel, Kalbarri’s flower strewn landscape makes spotting a LOT of Western Australia’s 12,000 wildflower species almost TOO easy. And when the flower hunt is over, you’re spoilt for choice with other natural attractions like the ancient gorges of Kalbarri National Park, the eroded islands and valleys of the Murchison River, and the dramatic sandstone cliffs along a sensational coastline.

MORE about Kalbarri HERE

View from Mt Abrupt, Southern Grampians
View from Mt Abrupt, Southern Grampians, Victoria, Australia
#20  Grampians, Victoria

Wildflower season in Victoria’s Grampians also makes flower spotting a sure thing. Combine your floral frenzy – over 1000 species – with exploring the rugged grandeur of the ranges – think hikes, mountain climbing, cycling, scenic flights – then indulge in one (or more!) of the region’s foodie HOT spots!

MORE about Grampians Wildflowers HERE

November:

#21  Great Ocean Road, Victoria
Whalers Point Lighthouse, Portland, Victoria
Whalers Point Lighthouse, Portland, Victoria

Even if you don’t have time to road-trip the coast between Torquay, just south of Melbourne and Nelson near the South Australian border, just 400 km away, make time to see the highlights. Like what? Well … pig out on the foodie trail; take in the stunning sculpted coastline; detour into the rainforests of the Otway Ranges; hang out on the beach; go lighthouse spotting; visit a village. Actually, just do the whole thing – it can be done in as little as 3 days!

MORE about the Great Ocean Road HERE

#22  Whitsundays, QLD
Daydream Island, Whitsundays, Queensland
Daydream Island, Whitsundays, Queensland

A stunning coastline lined with beaches; a tropical blue ocean studded with 74 stunning tropical islands all adjacent to the Great Barrier Reef.

Private beaches, National Parks, historic sites, snorkelling, scuba diving, sailing and fishing to die for.

Yes, the Whitsundays sounds WAY too good to be true – but it really IS this cool!

MORE about the Whitsundays HERE

December:

Goolwa Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Goolwa Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
#23  Fleurieu Peninsula, SA

Catch the Cockle Train – Australia’s oldest public railway; cruise the Lower Lakes and Coorong to the Murray Mouth – end of Australia’s longest river system; climb South Aussie icon The Bluff; and visit one (or more!) of the 100 or so cellar doors just an hour south of Adelaide on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Oh – and there’s a couple of public amenities blocks that made it into Lonely Planet’s book of world’s best scenic loos too!

MORE about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE

#24  Sydney, New South Wales
Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Opera House
Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Opera House

Yes, Sydney’s biggest attractions are SUCH a cliché! But that doesn’t mean they’re not worth visiting! SO … cruise the harbour, climb the bridge, see something at the Opera House, visit Taronga Park zoo, wander the Botanic Gardens, catch the ferry to Manly, check out Darling Harbour, go shopping, visit museums and galleries, then find somewhere cool to eat. See? I told you it’d be fun!

MORE about Sydney HERE

Well, that’s how to get started on seeing OZ! Of course you can visit all these regions at other times of the year – the monthly guides are just suggestions. And when you’re done with these I bet you’ll find that there’s a whole lot more on your Aussie travel bucket list.

That’s why I’m still travelling Australia 😀

Khancoban Pondage at Sunset, New South Wales
Khancoban Pondage at Sunset, New South Wales

Want MORE?

Disclosure:  This post contains a sponsored link for cheap flights

Like it?  SHARE it!

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See Australia Month-by-Month Part One: January to June Travel Teasers! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/04/see-australia-month-by-month-part-one-january-to-june-travel-teasers/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/04/see-australia-month-by-month-part-one-january-to-june-travel-teasers/#comments Wed, 12 Apr 2017 13:01:14 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=5349 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’d be able to fund my Aussie travel ’til the end of time if I had a buck for every time I’ve heard someone say ‘I wish I could see as much of Australia as you have’. ‘But you CAN,’ I generally reply. Yes, I get that slow travelling to obscure parts of OZ in an el cheapo 1983 camper[...]

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Beach in Ballina, North Coast, New South Wales
Beach in Ballina, North Coast, New South Wales

I’d be able to fund my Aussie travel ’til the end of time if I had a buck for every time I’ve heard someone say ‘I wish I could see as much of Australia as you have’.

‘But you CAN,’ I generally reply.

Yes, I get that slow travelling to obscure parts of OZ in an el cheapo 1983 camper trailer like I do these days isn’t for everyone. But what I DON’T get is why people think that’s the only way to do it. Or that it’s the only way I’VE done it!

So I stick to my original reply.

Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island
Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

You CAN.

Yes, that’s right. You CAN see a LOT of Australia. And you don’t need an expensive rig, a massive overdraft or a year off work to do it.

Here’s HOW!

All you need is a week (or two) and my easy-as-pie 3-step plan to see Australia month by month!

  1. Choose a region you haven’t been to yet.
  2. Find cheap flights, borrow the old man’s caravan, hop in the car, or outsource the driving and take a tour.
  3. Just GO!

Then next time you’ve got a week (or two) off, do it all again.

Little by little is how I saw a LOT of Australia before I started the slow travel/el cheapo camper trailer thing.

And here’s where you get lucky.

Because my See Australia Month-by-Month Travel Teasers are my HOT picks for some COOL places to go whatever time of year you get a break. Look and see which Travel Teasers take your fancy – then take the links for a LOT more information!

You CAN get started on seeing Australia – do it right here with Part 1: January to June!

January: Summer Highs and Lows

View over Lake Cootapatamba, Australia's highest lake, Kosciuszko Track
View over Lake Cootapatamba, Australia’s highest lake, Kosciuszko Track

#1 Mt Kosciuszko, NSW

Beat the summer heat, climb a ‘Seven Summits’ peak AND visit Australia’s highest public loo! All this and more makes Kosciuszko National Park the coolest summer holiday destination in OZ – you don’t need snow to explore the Alpine Region in summer where the average maximum temperature is around 22°C!

And what better way to start the year than to see Australia from its highest point?

MORE about Mt Kosciuszko HERE

#2 North Coast, New South Wales

Looking north from Skennars Head on a clear day, Ballina, New South Wales
View from Skennars Head, Ballina, New South Wales

But if summer isn’t summer for you without a beach or two or 22, you’ll find a LOT more than that on the New South Wales North Coast.

If surfing/backpacker mecca Byron Bay is too crowded, head south to Ballina for the same great beaches and stunning coastline – and when you’re sick of all that sand, head for the hinterland with hippy-inspired markets, produce and pristine rainforests.

MORE about the New South Wales North Coast HERE

February: Cool Summer Hot Spots

#3 Tasmania

Woolmers Estate, Longford, Tasmania
Woolmers Estate, Longford, Tasmania

See out summer’s hottest month in Australia’s coolest state. Tasmania puts the ‘wild’ back into ‘wilderness’ with a side order of World Heritage convict sites, an extravaganza of natural produce and (arguably) Australia’s best art museum!

BUT … don’t make the mistake of thinking you can see it all in a week – pick two or three highlights and put the rest back on the list for next time!

MORE about Tasmania HERE

#4 Limestone Coast, South Australia

Cape Buffon, Canunda National Park via Southend, Limestone Coast
Cape Buffon, Limestone Coast

Or find one of the mainland’s coolest coastal hot spots where a wild and rugged coastline scattered with brilliant beaches and jewel-like lakes meets an intriguing blend of volcanoes, caves and sink holes.

Tired of coastal activities like swimming, fishing and checking out lighthouses? No problem! Head inland for the caves, lakes and hiking trails, then wrap it up with some of the finest seafood in OZ!

MORE about the Limestone Coast HERE

March: Island Paradise

Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island
Looking South from Kims Lookout, Lord Howe Island

How DO you decide which tropical island paradise to pick??

#5 Lord Howe Island

If you’re up for cruises to the world’s highest volcanic stack or round the island; hiking some of Australia’s most scenic trails; snorkelling Australia’s southernmost tropical reef; or cycling to a semi-deserted beach for the day, then you’re probably going to love Lord Howe Island.

MORE about Lord Howe Island HERE

#6 Norfolk Island

Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island
Phillip Island offshore from Norfolk Island

But if a unique culture with its own language and delightful local cuisine with a fascinating background of World Heritage listed historic sites all laid out on a spectacularly scenic Pacific Island location interests you more, then you’ll probably love Norfolk Island.

MORE about Norfolk Island HERE

But if you can’t decide then go for both! And no, the Island tourism boards are NOT paying me!!

Unfortunately.

April: High Country

#7 Atherton Tableland, Far North Queensland

Millaa Millaa Falls, Atherton Tablelands, Far North Queensland
Millaa Millaa Falls, Atherton Tablelands, Far North Queensland

Sweeping panoramas to Queensland’s highest mountain, magnificent rainforests, volcanic lakes and more waterfalls than you can poke a stick at are a good start.

But add fantastic local produce, charming small towns, bakeries, cafes and markets to the mix and there’s enough things to do and see without even thinking about Cairns, only an hour or so away!

MORE about the Atherton Tableland HERE

#8 Bright and Mt Buffalo National Park, Victoria

The road to the Horn, from the Horn lookout, Mt Buffalo National Park
The road to the Horn, Mt Buffalo National Park

On the western edge of the Victorian High Country, spend your days climbing Mt Buffalo’s Horn, touring its historic chalet, picnicking by its lakes or hiking its many walks before returning to the stunning autumn colours AND the fine collection of eateries in Bright.

It’s a great base from which to explore other parts of the Victorian Alpine Region – but don’t forget your winter woollies!

More about Bright and Mt Buffalo HERE

May: The River and The Rim

#9 Scenic Rim, Queensland

Lake Moogerah Sunset, Scenic Rim
Lake Moogerah Sunset, Scenic Rim

Just an hour west of the Gold Coast and an hour south-west of Brisbane and you’re in the Scenic Rim wonderland – an amazing array of natural attractions scattered with interesting villages and eateries surrounded by staggering views. So if you’re up for a holiday involving action, adventure, relaxation, fresh produce, fishing, hiking or sightseeing, then this is the place for you!

MORE about the Scenic Rim Region HERE

#10 The River Murray Riverland

Big Bend, Murray River via Swan Reach, South Australia
Big Bend, Murray River via Swan Reach, South Australia

From its headwaters in the Australian Alps, the Murray River flows for 2500 km (1560 miles) through three states.

Don’t have time to explore the whole thing? Pick out some highlights like the historic paddlesteamers at the port of Echuca (Vic); where the Darling meets the Murray to form Australia’s largest river system at Wentworth (NSW); or the Murray Mouth where the river meets the Great Southern Ocean at Goolwa (SA).

MORE about the Murray River HERE

June: The Territory

#11 Darwin, Northern Territory

Jumping Croc
Jumping Croc,

Australia’s northernmost – and therefore hottest – capital city is an unusual blend of diverse cultures, deadly wildlife and lush tropical scenery. But if it’s hotter, that means a LOT more reasons to relax with a drink, right?!

Take a sightseeing break for the Darwin Museum, World War II memorabilia, a cruise on the harbour, the Mindil Beach markets and a whole lot of fine regional produce involving seafood. And see Australia’s largest predators up REAL close on a Jumping Crocs Cruise!

MORE about Darwin HERE

#12 Uluru and Central Australia

Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia
Glen Helen Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Central Australia

If you haven’t been to Uluru, Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) or Kings Canyon, June is the time to do it! But when you’re done with those Big Ticket items, head back to Alice Springs for the Alice Springs Desert Park, Standley Chasm and Olive Pink Botanic Gardens, then head out to the spectacular gorges of the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, around the Mereenie loop, south to Rainbow Valley or along the Larapinta Trail.

MORE about Central Australia Attractions HERE

If you’ve got the time, take a Road Trip from Adelaide to Darwin and see it all in one go!

Well, that’s how to see Australia month by month for the first six months of the year! Want the last half of the year?  Click HERE for Part Two: July to December for more HOT Aussie Travel Teasers!

PS – Here’s a hint about where to go in the second half of the year!!

Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia
Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia

Disclosure:  This post contains a sponsored link for cheap flights

The post See Australia Month-by-Month Part One: January to June Travel Teasers! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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14 TOP Secret Aussie Hot Spots https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/12/14-top-secret-aussie-hot-spots/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2016/12/14-top-secret-aussie-hot-spots/#comments Wed, 14 Dec 2016 07:38:56 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4883 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’ve been a BIG fan of maps since forever.  So when Hema Maps wanted to collaborate on a post about Australia’s hidden hot spots, I agreed straight away!  Below is the Hema Maps selection of 7 AMAZING almost-secret Aussie Hot Spots – even I haven’t been to some of them – then take the link at the end of the post to find[...]

The post 14 TOP Secret Aussie Hot Spots appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’ve been a BIG fan of maps since forever.  So when Hema Maps wanted to collaborate on a post about Australia’s hidden hot spots, I agreed straight away!  Below is the Hema Maps selection of 7 AMAZING almost-secret Aussie Hot Spots – even I haven’t been to some of them – then take the link at the end of the post to find MY 7 secrets on their website!

Take it away, Hema Maps!!

Every Australian state has popular hotspots which grab all the plaudits, but to the side or within these places are hidden gems that manage to fly under the radar of most off-road travellers.

Jacksons Crossing Beach, Snowy River*
Jacksons Crossing Beach, Snowy River, Victoria*

1.  Jacksons Crossing, High Country Victoria

High Country Victoria is known for its heights – ridge-riding 4WD tracks and expansive mountain vistas are the norm – but you need to look down low to find one of the region’s most memorable spots.

Jacksons Crossing is a bush camp off Varneys Track, northeast of Buchan, which is situated next to the iconic Snowy River. The trip in is a classic High Country drive, and the reward for your efforts is a campsite that ticks all possible boxes with minimal fuss. A beach unexpectedly appears out of nowhere in amongst this alpine setting, next to a campsite that’s nestled between rising alpine ranges on either side. Offering plenty of room in picturesque natural surrounds, Jacksons Crossing combines classic High Country themes in a family-friendly environment. Keep in mind that private property is nearby, so be sure not to stray into areas you shouldn’t.

Gawler Ranges National Park Organ Pipes, South Australia*
Gawler Ranges National Park Organ Pipes, South Australia*

2. Organ Pipes – Gawler Ranges National Park, SA

The Flinders may be the most famous ranges in South Australia, but the Gawler Ranges rolling Outback hills are home to something uniquely spectacular. Called Organ Pipes (and named so for obvious reasons), these fascinating columns were pushed upwards from beneath the earth over 1500 million years ago due to volcanic activity, creating eerily consistent formations that make the Gawler Ranges a must-visit Outback destination. The park is also renowned for its rich red tracks and rolling hills, which make for a sensational backdrop as you drive through this unique region.

Old Glen Innes Road Tunnel, New South Wales*
Old Glen Innes Road Tunnel, New South Wales*

3. Old Glen Innes Road, NSW

This charming drive through rural New South Wales takes you back in time as you roll through ghost towns slowly being absorbed by verdant hinterland. A town called Dalmorton sprung up in the 1860s after gold fever took over the region, which supported a population of 5,000 in the surrounding area during its peak.

Remnants of this forgotten past is evidenced by old mine shafts that dot the hills along the journey, in addition to dilapidated buildings and a lonely tennis court in the middle of nowhere. Along the drive is a tunnel – supposedly built using civilian labour in the 1880s – that bores through the side of the mountain on which the road climbs. Like a self-driving museum in natural surrounds, the Old Glen Innes Road is an enthralling journey in time and space.

Gnylmarung Retreat, Cape Leveque, Western Australia*
Gnylmarung Retreat, Cape Leveque, Western Australia*

4. Gnylmarung Retreat, WA

Newcomers to Cape Leveque in Western Australia’s Kimberley region can be forgiven for going with the masses to Kooljaman in the north, but for a more secluded coastal camping experience, it’s hard to go past Gnylmarung Retreat. Situated on the western side of the cape above Beagle Bay, everything about Gnylmarung is spacious and blissfully basic, with other campers only spotted occasionally as they make their way to the outdoor shower or down to the beach to watch the sun set.

If you can resist the pull of the more recognised camping areas around Cape Leveque, you’re guaranteed to find tranquillity to go with your Kimberley coastline at Gnylmarung – sans backpackers and other crowd contributors.

Redbank Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Northern Territory*
Redbank Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Northern Territory*

5. Redbank Gorge, NT

Central Australia is a hotbed of stunning natural beauty of jaw-dropping proportions, much of which is well-known to any Outback traveller worth their salt. Amongst iconic places like Uluru and Palm Valley, Redbank Gorge quietly amazes visitors who venture to the western end of the West MacDonnell Ranges, its unassuming appearance upon entry giving way to something much more impressive.

The camping around Redbank Gorge offers basic facilities, with everything appearing to be business as usual until you walk behind the campsite to find a view to rival any lookout. You can then head deeper into the ranges to get to Redbank Gorge itself, or to take on Section 12 of the Larapinta Trail to experience central Australia’s most spectacular walking trail. While it may be on the fringes of the West Macs, Redbank Gorge is front and centre as one of the Red Centre’s best hidden gems.

The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania*
The Neck, Bruny Island, Tasmania*

6. Bruny Island, TAS

Australian mainlanders may struggle to see the sense in going to an island to reach yet another island, but once you reach Bruny, any wondering will end. Aside from the artisanal cheese, chocolate, seafood and wine on offer, Bruny offers a wilder side for travellers to experience.

The 100km-long island is fringed by beaches and cliffs, with multiple camping areas available in the south, including the 4WD-only Cloudy Bay Corner Beach Camping Area. There are plenty of walks available all over the island, which are often the best way to see wildlife – 13 of Tassie’s 14 endemic birds can be found on Bruny – such as the fairy penguins which nest near The Neck, a skinny strip of beach which links North and South Bruny Island.

Booloumba Creek, Conondale, Queensland*
Booloumba Creek, Conondale National Park, Queensland*

7. Conondale National Park, QLD

South East Queensland’s Scenic Rim is a volcanic remnant that is home to lush rainforest and a multitude of national parks for campers, hikers and four-wheel drivers to explore. While many travellers are drawn to the Scenic Rim’s southwest icons – Main Range and Lamington national parks – higher north is the Scenic Rim’s quiet achiever: Conondale National Park.

Close to the refreshingly quaint towns of Kenilworth and Maleny, Conondale National Park presides over an abundance of attractions and 4WD tracks in a relatively small area. Entry to the park begins with a creek crossing, after which the track cuts into rainforest with occasional steep gradients and excellent views from breaks in the tree line.

Within the park itself are four camping areas with access to stunning Booloumba Creek, as well as entry to the Queensland government’s Conondale Range Great Walk – a 56km hike through cloistered rainforest and open scrubland that takes four days to complete. A short drive from the camping areas is a lookout, while also along the loop drive is a lookout and a handful of rest areas at which you can relax.

Old Glen Innes Road Bridge, NSW*
Old Glen Innes Road Bridge, NSW*

Well, that’s 7 secret travel spots provided by Hema Maps. You were promised 14! Now view MY 7 top secret Australian travel spots hosted at Hema Maps.

Hema Maps are adventure and navigation experts who produce a range of navigation solutions that will help you to find your own secret spots!

PS Having trouble finding these secret hot spots? Why not check out the Hema Maps Hema HX1 Navigator!  How good is it?  Then check out the Red’s Australia HX1 Navigator Review?!

*  Photos and text courtesy of Hema Maps

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