Beaches Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/beaches/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 18 Nov 2021 05:24:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Beaches Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/beaches/ 32 32 10 Beautiful Kangaroo Island Beaches https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/11/beautiful-kangaroo-island-beaches-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2021/11/beautiful-kangaroo-island-beaches-south-australia/#comments Sat, 13 Nov 2021 13:09:03 +0000 https://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=6885 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Much of Kangaroo Island’s 509 kilometre-long (316 mile) coastline is rugged and rocky, with dramatic and spectacular scenery.  The soaring cliffs, towering dunes, dense coastal vegetation, and rock formations that make up much of the shoreline are frequently battered by strong winds and pounding seas.  And several active lighthouses scattered around the island indicate further offshore hazards. The conditions are[...]

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Snellings Beach, Kangaroo Island
Snellings Beach from Constitution Hill, Kangaroo Island

Much of Kangaroo Island’s 509 kilometre-long (316 mile) coastline is rugged and rocky, with dramatic and spectacular scenery.  The soaring cliffs, towering dunes, dense coastal vegetation, and rock formations that make up much of the shoreline are frequently battered by strong winds and pounding seas.  And several active lighthouses scattered around the island indicate further offshore hazards.

The conditions are perfect for shipwrecks.

But despite the dangers, they’re also perfect for beaches.

Seal Bay Walkway
Seal Bay and Boardwalk, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

There are over 50 Kangaroo Island beaches, in fact—each with its own unspoilt beauty and charm.  They’re not all safe for swimming, but discovering the characteristics that make each of them special is an excellent way to explore the island’s different regions and find your own special “KI” (Kangaroo Island) spot. 

Come here outside the peak holiday season, and many of the beaches are deserted—apart from seals, penguins, dolphins, sea-birds and the occasional whale out at sea, that is.  

With so much choice, however, finding the perfect beach to match your mood can be time-consuming.  So narrow it down with my 10 favourite Kangaroo Island beaches and see if there’s one that suits you!

You’re welcome!

Penneshaw Beach

Penneshaw Beach
Penneshaw Beach from Ferry, Kangaroo Island

After a rough ferry ride on heaving seas from the mainland to Kangaroo Island (KI) across Backstairs Passage, Penneshaw’s sheltered harbour with its deep, turquoise waters and sweeping curve of white sand is a welcome sight and wonderful introduction to the island’s natural attractions.

Just 600 metres (1968 feet) long, the beach stretches around the bay from the jetty terminal to Baudin Conservation Park.  Walk the historic trail along the foreshore, try fishing from the beach or jetty, and admire the brilliant colours from vantage points on the walking tracks.  At dusk, take a guided tour to see the world’s smallest penguins return from the sea to their nests on the rocks near the beach. 

Spend a little time here, and your sub-tropical island beach fantasy may just come true!

Antechamber Bay

Antechamber Bay
Antechamber Bay and Chapman River Mouth, Kangaroo Island

From Penneshaw, the road to Cape Willoughby lighthouse passes through Lashmar Conservation Park on the banks of the Chapman River, which flows through the park and out to sea into the beautiful Antechamber Bay.  The bay is a 4.2 kilometre-long (2.6 mile) stretch of more of that distinctive KI white sand we first saw in Penneshaw, with beautifully coloured aquamarine waters lapping its shores.

Camp in the park to take full advantage of the spectacular views across Backstairs Passage to the Fleurieu Peninsula.  Walkways on either side of the river lead to the beach, perfect for walking and swimming.  In the distance at the bay’s easternmost point is the unattended Cape St Albans lighthouse.

Picturesque and protected, the bay and its amenities are so relaxing, it’d be possible to spend your entire KI stay here!

Mouth Flat Beach

Mouth Flat Beach
Mouth Flat Beach, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Despite—or perhaps because of—being hard to reach, unsafe for swimming and difficult to explore, Mouth Flat beach is easily my favourite of the Kangaroo Island Beaches. The Willson River meanders through the dune system before entering the sea at Mouth Flat on the Dudley Peninsula’s south coast.

The rough track leading to the flat eventually becomes a private road, so the only way to reach the beach without trespassing is to hike a rough, overgrown and undefined trail along the eastern river bank’s high cliffs through the often impenetrable coastal scrub and through the dunes.  Keep the river on your right and the dunes on your left for a couple of kilometres (1.2 miles) and you’ll eventually get to the beach.  Watch out for snakes!

Wild seas lash the uneven shore that drops away quickly into treacherous rips and currents. Small footprints in the sand around rocky hollows and small caves in the cliffs at the western end of the beach are evidence that penguins nest and roost here. However, the “path” through the dunes would be difficult to walk at dusk when the penguins are active, and virtually impossible in the dark.

Mouth Flat
Willson River and Dunes en route to Mouth Flat Beach, Kangaroo Island

Retracing our steps was difficult enough in daylight, as our footprints weren’t always visible.  After exploring the beach, cliffs and river mouth, then deciding that returning via the river bed could be tricky, we bush-bashed our way back through the dense coastal scrub instead.

Untamed, pristine and totally deserted, Mouth Flat beach is the ultimate KI natural attraction that even some locals haven’t been to.  Seek it out if you dare!

Pennington Bay

Pennington Bay
Pennington Bay and Beach Access Walkway, Kangaroo Island

Site of KI’s most scenic public loo (IMHO), Pennington Bay is a surfing and fishing beach surrounded by high sand dunes on the south-western coast of the Dudley Peninsula.  The loo—and the magnificent coastal scenery—compensate for the dangerous rips and rough seas that can make the beach unsafe for swimming.  Vantage points overlook the beach at various locations, and watching the ever-changing ocean colours as the waves roll in can be mesmerising.  Dolphins—and sometimes whales—can be seen from the lookouts too.

Several access points lead down to the white sand beach, where you’ll often be the only visitors.  Don’t miss the surfboard storyboards on the tracks to the beach, or the awesome view from the loo!

Seal Bay

Seals at Seal Bay
Australian Sea Lions at Seal Bay, Kangaroo Island

Admiring the killer coastal view, inspecting a whale skeleton in the dunes, and watching (and photographing!) the ever-present seals frolicking on the beach and in the surf replace traditional beach activities at Seal Bay, on KI’s south coast.  

Access to this beach is limited to guided tours, ensuring that the colony of around 1,000 sea lions that live here are not disturbed by visitors. Alternatively, take a self-guided tour and descend the long, sloping boardwalk (see photo in introduction) down to a vantage point above the beach and watch the seals at rest and play.  Above, from a lookout on top of the cliff, the spectacular coastal views are some of the best on KI.

But the seals are the real stars of Seal Bay, and watching them is one of the best beach activities the island has to offer.

Vivonne Bay

Vivonne Bay
Vivonne Bay Reef, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The horror bushfires of the 2019/20 Australian summer burned right down to Vivonne Bay’s shoreline.  But with its multi-shaded blue waters and six kilometres (3.7 miles) of white sand, it’s still easy to see why the beach was voted best in the world in 2003, and still regularly makes it into Australian Top 10 Beach lists.  Including this list of Kangaroo Island beaches!  And in photos, the blackened vegetation makes a nice counterpoint to the beach’s vivid colour palette too.

Explore the Vivonne Bay Conservation Park at the western end, fish from the jetty or snorkel the clear waters over the reef. Otherwise walk around the bay and admire the captivating view.  On a fine day, the bay is pretty close to paradise!

Western River Cove

Western River Cove
Western River Cove Beach, Kangaroo Island

From the access road on the high, rocky cliffs above Western River Cove, the beach is like a small, brightly coloured jewel amidst craggy, glistening rocks.  Up close, the north coast’s rugged scenery is postcard-perfect with clean lines and intense colours.  Watch out for the endangered glossy black-cockatoos feeding in the patches of sheoak near the road as it descends steeply to the bay.

The Western River enters the sea here, and there’s a small beach on the river bank below a campground and picnic area complete with scenic loo.  Swim in the beautifully clear water, or explore the rocky cliffs on either side of the bay. Unless there’s a group of school children present, as there was during our visit, it’s a peaceful and picturesque place in which to chill out. 

Snellings Beach

Snellings Beach
Snellings Beach, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Hooded Plover
Hooded Plover, Snellings Beach, Kangaroo Island

Atop Constitution Hill, high above Snellings Beach, the view over the surrounding steep, rolling hills and the beautiful Middle River as it flows into the sea at the small bay’s eastern end is spectacular.  If you are lucky enough to stay in accommodation overlooking the beach, waking up to the magnificent view is an added bonus.

Be careful when walking the beach—the tiny beach-nesting hooded plover, with a conservation status of “vulnerable”, can sometimes be seen here.  Check the trees around the area too, as koalas are frequently sighted (and heard!) in the area. 

Centrally located on the north coast, Snellings is an excellent base from which to explore KI’s top end, but its main attraction is its scenic beauty.

(Little) King George Beach

Little King George Beach
Little King George Beach at Sunset, Kangaroo Island

The otherworldly jagged rock formations and smoothly pebbled shore of what I am reliably informed is actually “Little King George Beach” couldn’t be further from the traditional white sand/turquoise water combo found elsewhere on the island.  

While it isn’t a conventional swimming beach, it’s good for fishing and excellent for exploring.  The colours of the oddly-shaped rocks in the late afternoon sun are spectacular, and walking around the western headland, while taking care not to slip on the rocks, opens up many photo opportunities.  So different from the other KI beaches, this little gem is definitely worth visiting.

Stokes Bay

Stokes Bay Beach
Stokes Bay Beach, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Stokes Bay Rocks
Path to Stokes Bay

Finding the “real” Stokes Bay isn’t easy.  The car park overlooks a pleasant stony beach, but it doesn’t look anything like the photos. So take the narrow path east to what looks like an impenetrable rocky cliff, follow it through a gap in the rocks, squeeze through an even smaller opening and suddenly you’re on a beautiful stretch of beach. It’s worth the effort.

A series of natural rock pools near the entry and exit point near the cliff are safe for swimming and exploring.  It’s a pleasant stroll along 300 metres (980 feet) of white sand to the other end of the beach where you’ll discover some unusual rock formations.  

An escape through the unusual entrance onto the secluded cove of Stokes Bay beach is an escape from your cares for a few hours.

Of course this is just an introduction to the amazing array of beaches to explore on Kangaroo Island—there are plenty more to discover and enjoy.

Want More?

  • Beautiful beaches aren’t the only natural attractions on Kangaroo Island.  See what else I discovered on this amazing island HERE
  • For a local perspective, visit the KI Tourism Alliance website HERE.
  • And … for Authentic KI, go HERE.
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12 HOT Australian Coastal and Beach Holiday Destinations – Part 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/10/australia-in-12-coastal-hot-spots/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2017/10/australia-in-12-coastal-hot-spots/#comments Tue, 03 Oct 2017 01:15:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=11 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Long Coastline, HUGE Landmass, Low Population. Our amazing unspoiled coastline, stunning natural attractions give us a fantastic array of AMAZING Australian coastal and beach holiday destinations! So how do you choose one? I’ve made it easy with my two-part virtual tour – so sit back, slip on your sunnies*, sip something soothing, and get set for a stunning scenic All-Around-Australia tour[...]

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Griffiths Island Lighthouse, Port Fairy, Victoria
Griffiths Island Lighthouse, Port Fairy, Victoria

Long Coastline, HUGE Landmass, Low Population.

Our amazing unspoiled coastline, stunning natural attractions give us a fantastic array of AMAZING Australian coastal and beach holiday destinations!

So how do you choose one?

Yambuk, near Port Fairy, Victoria, 10 Budget Travel Tips
The AWESOME dune slide near the caravan park at Yambuk, near Port Fairy, Victoria

I’ve made it easy with my two-part virtual tour – so sit back, slip on your sunnies*, sip something soothing, and get set for a stunning scenic All-Around-Australia tour of 12 coastal destinations to inspire YOUR next holiday!  And look out for Part Two coming SOON!

For more information, click each heading below!

1.  Port Fairy, Great Ocean Road, Victoria

Choosing a vacation base along the 400 km (~248 mile) long Great Ocean Road trail starting at the South Australian border and stretching nearly to Melbourne is WAY too hard.  It’s got (almost) too many surf beaches, shipwreck sites, holiday towns, hiking tracks, National Parks, cafés and historic points of interest.

But you have to start somewhere. So for a cross-section of what the Great Ocean Road has to offer, base yourself at Port Fairy.  It’s a 2-bakery teaser with historic Griffiths Island and lighthouse (photo above).  There’s also a Short-tailed Shearwater nesting spot, site of the Bonney Upwelling phenomenon, and a rich maritime heritage with magnificent coastal scenery.

Plus access to a LOT of other attractions at nearby towns Portland and Warrnambool!

Williamstown Jetty, Port Philip Bay, Melbourne
Williamstown Jetty, Port Philip Bay, Melbourne

2. Port Philip Bay, Victoria

Bird watchers like me just don’t understand why most visitors to Melbourne don’t want to visit the sewage ponds at the Western Treatment Plant – one of the best birding hotspots in OZ.

Weirdly, many non-birding visitors seem to prefer water sports, sailing, swimming, fishing, cruising and hiking.  Not to mention visiting the many National Parks, gardens, lighthouses, historic sites and cultural hot spots.  They’d probably agree that Melbourne exists merely as accommodation while they indulge in the amazing variety of water- and beach-based activities in, on and around Port Philip Bay.

Geelong Foreshore, Port Phillip Bay, Victoria
Geelong Foreshore, Port Phillip Bay, Victoria

35 times larger than Sydney Harbour and home of Australia’s biggest cargo port, finding enough things to do on your seaside holiday won’t be a problem.  If all else fails, just chill out on one of the many beaches and soak up the coastal culture!

3. South West Rocks, New South Wales

View from Smoky Cape Lighthouse, South West Rocks, New South Wales
Unspoiled Beaches and Coastal Scenery from Smoky Cape Lighthouse, South West Rocks, New South Wales

We were horrified to hear that the unspoiled fishing village of South West Rocks we’d ‘discovered’ in the 1990s was a favourite of Ray Martin, one-time Aussie TV ‘personality’.  It took a temporary dive in our estimation.

Its array of attractions include Macleay River fishing, the staggering scenery from Smoky Cape Lighthouse, hiking trails, a superb bakery, hinterland and nearby towns to explore.  There’s Trial Bay Gaol, and Hat Head, Stuarts Point and Scotts Head (all with GREAT beaches).  So it made a speedy recovery and it’s still one of our all-time favourite NSW coastal spots.

We haven’t yet spotted Ray there … but who knows?  You might get ‘lucky’!

4.  Broken Head, New South Wales

The amazing Northern Rivers region of NSW has (arguably) some of the best beaches and coastal scenery in Australia.  The coast also includes the iconic Cape Byron Lighthouse on Australia’s most easterly point.

Beach in Ballina, North Coast, New South Wales
Beach in Ballina, North Coast, New South Wales

But wilder and less crowded is the little hamlet of Broken Head just a short distance south of Byron Bay with the best of both worlds.  It’s an awesome coastal holiday destination in its own right. It’s also easy to access the amazing beaches and other attractions in the whole region.

You might need more reason to visit than the magnificent stretch of rainforest-lined unspoiled beach that curves all the way round to Cape Byron.  If so, stop dodging the scrub-turkeys in the car park and dodge the surfers and fishermen instead on the coastal walk south across the Head to the beaches and wilderness beyond. Interpretive signs explain historic and cultural points of interest, and the view goes on forever …

Looking south from Broken Head Coastal Reserve Walk, New South Wales
Looking south from Broken Head Coastal Reserve Walk, New South Wales

On a good day, it’s pretty hard to beat!

5. Mon Repos, via Bundaberg, Queensland

Red with Turtle, Mon Repos, Bundaberg
Red with Turtle, Mon Repos, Bundaberg

There’s a lot more to do in the coastal town of Bundaberg than see turtles, but nearby Mon Repos Conservation Park is one of the largest turtle rookeries in Australia.  That makes it an interesting beach holiday destination.

At night during laying season (Nov to Jan), female turtles lay their eggs on the beach – and a few lucky people, supervised by the interpretive centre, are privileged to watch.

If you’re thinking I look a bit rough in this November 1998 photo, it’s because it’s about 3:00 am – the turtles don’t perform on demand!

This is an extraordinary opportunity to see something amazing – and a must-do for your coastal vacation bucket list!

If turtles aren’t your thing, a tasting trip to the Bundaberg Rum factory – it also makes a killer Ginger Beer and selection of fruit-flavoured soft drinks – might do the trick!

6.  Cooktown, Queensland

It’s quite possible that every visitor to Cooktown has a photo of the 1885 Grassy Hill Lighthouse. Not to mention the killer view along the wild and heavily-rainforested coastline.

Grassy Hill Lighthouse in 1998, Cooktown, Queensland
Grassy Hill Lighthouse in 1998, Cooktown, Queensland

Its colonial history includes a visit of several weeks by Captain Cook (yes, THAT one) while repairing the Endeavour.  There was also a busy port that serviced the nearby Palmer River goldfields.

Tropical Scenery along the coast, Cooktown, Queensland, Australia
Tropical Scenery along the coast, Cooktown, Queensland, Australia

Now a popular winter fishing destination, it’s also a jumping off point for one of the most iconic of Australian road-trips. Yes, you guessed right—the trek to the most northerly point in Australia, Cape York!

7.  Darwin, Northern Territory

Australia’s most northerly major city, Darwin isn’t for the fainthearted. The town was virtually destroyed by bombings during the 2nd World War and again by Tropical Cyclone Tracey on Christmas Day, 1974. Regularly lashed by tropical storms and isolated by floods during the annual ‘Wet’ season (Nov-March), its tropical waters contain crocodiles and stingers.

Sunset at the Mindil Beach markets, Darwin, Northern Territory
Sunset at the Mindil Beach markets, Darwin, Northern Territory

Fair-weather tourists like me who venture this far north during the ‘Dry’ are rewarded with magnificent tropical scenery, milder temperatures and the most laid-back lifestyle in OZ.

If you like your coastal holidays served up with a dash of adventure – think fishing in crocodile-infested waters and or even bird watching in a crocodile infested dam – then head to the beaches of Darwin.  But give the swimming a miss!

Across the bay by ferry, holiday town Mandorah is a taste of the tropics at their best.

Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory
Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory

I don’t know if I’ll ever visit Darwin during the Wet. But its a sure thing I’ll be back there one day to experience it’s Aussie Winter 30ºC (86º F) temperatures again!

 

8.  Broome, Western Australia

Likely the worst photo you’ll ever see of Broome’s famous ‘Staircase to the Moon’, this shot is a wordless warning to anyone attempting low light photography.  Don’t forget those pre-requisites: a) tripod; b) shutter release cable; and c) skill!

Sceptical of its ‘uniqueness’ – it’s just the moon rising over water and mud for goodness sake, and that happens in LOTS of places – seeing the real thing’s actual resemblance to a staircase (don’t look for this in my poor pic) changed my mind.

Luckily, there’s plenty more to do in the coastal pearling town of Broome if moonlight and mudflats don’t quite do it for you.

Broome has some of the most amazing coastal scenery – and highest tides – in Australia. It’s colours are a perfect backdrop to exploring the rugged coastline and amazing beaches like world-famous Cable Beach, and other gems like often-almost-deserted Coconut Wells beach.There’s also the swirling tidal patterns of Willie Creek – also home to a pearl farm!

Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia
Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia

An interesting array of cultures makes the regular outdoor markets on ‘Staircase’ nights a must-do.  As is exploring dinosaur footprints and the lighthouse at nearby Gantheaume Point.  Broome is best enjoyed as a beach holiday destination during the milder Aussie winter (June-August).

9.  Quobba Blowholes, Western Australia

Quobba Blowholes, via Carnarvon, Western Australia
Quobba Blowholes, via Carnarvon, Western Australia

Never turn your back on an active blowhole – if you want to stay dry, that is!! By a happy coincidence, the tides were perfect for optimum blowhole performance, and some dodging and weaving around the rocks ensured we didn’t get too wet. Not that it would have mattered – the perfection of a fine, warm and sunny winter’s day on Western Australia’s Outback Coast means we would have dried out pretty quickly!

But high-pressure sea spray bursting through rockholes isn’t the only kind of blowhole on offer below the impressive Quobba lighthouse and beautiful bay – whales are also sighted along this stretch of coastline.

For a different perspective, try blowhole-spotting from the vantage point high above at the lighthouse. It’s easier than it looks as the white spray stands out perfectly against the deep, deep blue of the sea!

There’s a campground near the blowholes, but there’s also plenty of things to do at nearby Carnarvon – a coastal town known for its produce, and a well known winter holiday destination for those escaping the southern cold.

Island Rock, Kalbarri
Island Rock, Kalbarri, Western Australia

10.  Kalbarri, Western Australia

With one of the most distinctive coastlines in OZ, the layered sandstone of Kalbarri’s 100 metre high cliffs can sometimes overshadow its other main attraction – the 500+ wildflower species for which the area is renowned!

But a series of cliff top walks atop sheer drops right down into the wild and whale-ridden waters of the Indian Ocean make the high concentration of shipwrecks – such as the Batavia in 1629 – unsurprising.

If you can tear yourself away from the cliffs, the impressive Murchison River, after carving its way through the sandstone from 80 km inland, enters the sea at Kalbarri in the shadow of the magnificent Red Bluff. The Kalbarri National Park – full of birds, wildlife and wildflowers – surrounds the town. Just up the road is the World Heritage area of Shark Bay, another beach holiday destination.

Nature's Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia
Another cliché shot of Nature’s Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

But who needs other attractions when all roads lead to the stupendous cliffs?!

11.  Head of Bight, South Australia

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

Its pretty hard to just drop in to Head of Bight – at the very top of the Great Australian Bight stretching across much of southern Australia’s coastline.

It’s at least a couple of days drive along the Eyre Highway from the closest major town in any direction.

But if you’re driving Australia’s best known road trip across the Nullarbor from June to October, you’ll find a southern right whale nursery under the unbroken 200 km line of the fabulous Bunda cliffs that mark where the world’s largest karst limestone formation meets the Great Southern Ocean.  It’s also the longest continuous line of sea cliffs in the world.

But the whales are the main attraction, and they’re easily seen from the viewing platform below the cliffs.  They’ll make spending your vacation on that long drive across the middle of nowhere worthwhile!

12. Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Daly Head, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Daly Head, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

The long coastline around the Yorke Peninsula, a narrow neck of land a couple of hours from Adelaide, virtually guarantees one of the highest concentrations of amazing beaches (often deserted), spectacular natural attractions AND coastal Scenic Public Toilets in Australia!

The perfect beach holiday destination, it’s also got some great hiking trails, including ‘Walk the Yorke’ around the whole peninsula.  There are also lighthouses, shipwreck sites and great scenic drives along the rugged coast. Then there’s the dolphin and seal spotting.  AND the fishing …

Troubridge Scenic Drive, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Troubridge Scenic Drive, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Well, that’s Part One done!  Stay tuned for Part Two with another 12 of Australia’s best coastal and beach holiday destinations – and another virtual tour of the whole coastline!

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On the Beach … Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/12/on-the-beach/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/12/on-the-beach/#comments Fri, 21 Dec 2012 22:56:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=84 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The sun rose as usual on this shining, sparkling pre-Xmas summer morning. A nice day for an apocalypse*. And where better to face the end of the world than on a (mostly) deserted Aussie beach, in an inadvertent echo of Australian classic On the Beach? A disturbing vision of post-apocalyptic dystopia, Australian author Nevil Shute’s masterpiece** was adapted for a[...]

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Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

The sun rose as usual on this shining, sparkling pre-Xmas summer morning.

A nice day for an apocalypse*.

And where better to face the end of the world than on a (mostly) deserted Aussie beach, in an inadvertent echo of Australian classic On the Beach?

On Swimmers Beach, Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
On Swimmers Beach, Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

A disturbing vision of post-apocalyptic dystopia, Australian author Nevil Shute’s masterpiece** was adapted for a 1959 film*** graphically showing the utter hopelessness following a nuclear holocaust.

I’d actually forgotten that the 21st December 2012 was to be, according to some, the end of the world. But even if I HAD remembered, I’d still have chosen to go to the beach.

Stairway to heaven? Pretty close!  Swimmers Beach access, South Australia
Stairway to heaven? Pretty close!  Swimmers Beach access, South Australia

But not just ANY old beach.

This beach.  The Southern Yorke Peninsula’s Swimmers Beach – at least we THINK that’s what it’s called – almost as far south as you can go in South Australia.

And as the apocalypse drew nigh, Swimmers Beach was enjoying a summer’s day of such brightness and clarity the end of the world seemed very far away.

D'you think we'll find a spot??  Swimmers Beach, South Australia
D’you think we’ll find a spot??  Swimmers Beach, South Australia

It wasn’t just the end of the world, however, but also a hot summer’s day, the Australian summer school holidays AND only a few days before Christmas. So sharing the pristine sands and unbelievably clear waters of a beach several hundred metres long with only five other people was a little surprising.

In a good way!

While Swimmers Beach provides a convincing argument against the best and clearest ocean waters only being found between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, that isn’t its only attraction.

Rocks at Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Rocks at Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

The natural limestone amphitheatre rising above the sand, continually eroded by the treacherous seas that have scuttled several ships over the years, is an endlessly fascinating work-in-progress. Today, a jagged tumble of rocks – newly fallen if the colour and lack of plant life is any indication – create an awesome backdrop for the arching sky above. Elsewhere, rocky edges are softened by the green vegetation and wildflowers bloom among the rocks.

And the wooden staircase hugs the cliff as it climbs to the cars parked high above.

Rocks at Swimmers Beach, South Australia
Rocks at Swimmers Beach, South Australia

Adventurous drivers on the road above the cliff top have no concept of how closely it nudges the edge – with an ever-increasing undercut adding an element of potential danger.

Only a small danger in the context of the end of the world, however!!

Our footprints the only ones to mark the vast expanse of white sand once past the beach’s other occupants as we wandered to the end and back, the salt water cold despite the summer heat.

Looking down Swimmers Beach to Troubridge Point Lighthouse, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Looking down Swimmers Beach to Troubridge Point Lighthouse, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

We could have been the last people on earth.

But unlike what faced the hapless characters of On the Beach, there appeared to be no apocalypse in sight today … YET!

Staircase up the cliff face, Swimmers Beach, South Australia
Staircase up the cliff face, Swimmers Beach, South Australia

Just another deserted Aussie beach.  And us.

And a great place from which to face the end of the world …

Want more information?

 

* According to some, the world was to end on this day!

** Argue if you dare!

*** Starring Gregory Peck, Ava Gardner, Fred Astaire & Anthony Perkins

Reef and Rocks at Swimmers Beach, Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Reef and Rocks at Swimmers Beach, Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

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1000 Words About … Solitude! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/12/1000-words-about-solitude/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/12/1000-words-about-solitude/#comments Fri, 14 Dec 2012 10:23:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=86 NEW from RedzAustralia!

As you can tell from this shot of a typical Australian Beach, it’s obviously the middle of winter. AND peak tourist season. No way?  No, REALLY! Coconut Wells Beach, a short drive north of Western Australia’s Broome on this beautiful July day (yes, that IS winter dowunder!) showed no signs of habitation except for a dune buggy track heading off[...]

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Coconut Wells Beach via Broome, Western Australia
Coconut Wells Beach via Broome, Western Australia

As you can tell from this shot of a typical Australian Beach, it’s obviously the middle of winter. AND peak tourist season.

No way?  No, REALLY!

Coconut Wells Beach, a short drive north of Western Australia’s Broome on this beautiful July day (yes, that IS winter dowunder!) showed no signs of habitation except for a dune buggy track heading off into the middle distance.

COOL Blue at Coconut Wells Beach, via Broome, Western Australia
COOL Blue at Coconut Wells Beach, via Broome, Western Australia

Thousands of Grey Nomads make the pilgrimage north from the colder states during the southern winter, and many lodge in Broome for the duration to enjoy its warmth.

But none of them had made it to this stretch of beach.

And while a couple of people strolled along the sandy shore further down, luckily we still managed to find some space of our own.

Coconut Wells Beach ROCKS!!! via Broome, Western Australia
Coconut Wells Beach ROCKS!!! via Broome, Western Australia

But that’s just what you get when you’re in a country with the longest coastline in the world, and where conditions are just right for the beach any time of the year somewhere along it.

SO … if you want to be alone on the beach in winter OR summer downunder, take a hyper-leap into another dimension where my guest post on the Explore Australia blog will show you 5 ways to find your own stretch of deserted downunder coastline!

Like THIS!

That darned Dune Buggy Track! Coconut Wells Beach
That darned Dune Buggy Track! Coconut Wells Beach

There’s plenty of other great Aussie travel articles on the blog – including my previous guest post Confessions of a Tween-Age Travel Blogger – so why not add it to your reading list?!

You’re welcome …

Want more information?

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #24 – Ned’s Beach, Lord Howe Island, NSW https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/04/australias-scenic-public-toilets-24-neds-beach-lord-howe-island-nsw/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/04/australias-scenic-public-toilets-24-neds-beach-lord-howe-island-nsw/#comments Wed, 11 Apr 2012 00:38:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=137 NEW from RedzAustralia!

These conveniences could be ANYWHERE, right? Anywhere with tropical vegetation and killer blue skies, that is. But that doesn’t narrow it down much. Nor does its proximity to a beach and picnic and barbecue areas! Unlike many of its tropical counterparts, however, this public loo at Neds Beach on gorgeous Lord Howe Island has no predators such as snakes; the[...]

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Public Amenities, Ned's Beach, Lord Howe Island
Public Amenities, Neds Beach, Lord Howe Island

These conveniences could be ANYWHERE, right? Anywhere with tropical vegetation and killer blue skies, that is. But that doesn’t narrow it down much. Nor does its proximity to a beach and picnic and barbecue areas!

Unlike many of its tropical counterparts, however, this public loo at Neds Beach on gorgeous Lord Howe Island has no predators such as snakes; the barbecues are free and already stacked with wood; and it’s surrounded by many features worthy of much closer inspection.

Like the resident population of endemic and uncommon bird species – White Tern and Flesh-footed Shearwater (aka ‘Mutton’ bird) en route; Sooty Tern, Common Noddy and Black-winged Petrel at the other end of the beach below.

And its outlook under towering Malabar hill with a sheer 209 metre drop to the ocean – named for the Malabar native who fell from it to his death from it many years ago while collecting Red-tailed Tropicbird feathers. Now these amazing birds soar above – and acrophobics* like me don’t look down …

White Tern, Lord Howe Island (pic by Pilchard)
White Tern, Lord Howe Island (pic by Pilchard)

Also en route are two tempting local bakeries, as if I needed another reason to slow down given I’d already claimed the hotly contested ‘world’s slowest cyclist’ title.

What a shame the topographic map we studied before our arrival gave us the mistaken impression that all the roads were flat!

And what an even bigger shame – for the locals – I hadn’t ridden a bike in well over 20 years …

Swim amongst mullet chasing food scraps at fish feeding time; and the kingfish chasing the mullet!

Ned's Beach, Lord Howe Island
Neds Beach, Lord Howe Island

Oh … and what’s that chasing the kingfish? Yep, a (small) shark! Those barbecues are starting to look mighty attractive – and stick around after dusk to see the Mutton birds return from a day of hunting at sea … what a shame Pilchard was too wary of their great hooked beaks to pick one up for a photo!

Mounts Gower & Lidgbird, Lord Howe Island
Mounts Gower & Lidgbird, Lord Howe Island

And if that doesn’t narrow it down enough, the fabulously picturesque Ned’s Beach is often overshadowed by the staggering – but instantly recognisable – view on the other side of magnificent Lord Howe Island.

View to Malabar Hill from Ned's Beach loo
View to Malabar Hill from Neds Beach loo

AND Public Toilet #15, previously claimed (by me!) as Australia’s MOST scenic!

The best thing? It REALLY DOES look like this! Sigh … maybe this IS the best amenities block after all!

At virtually a year to the day since we last visited magical Lord Howe Island, it’s clearly been WAY too long …

Gotta go back.

If only to decide which is the better scenic public toilet.

Who’s coming with me?!

Want MORE?

 

Pilchard looks ovethe Admiralty Islands from Malabar Hill.  Ned's Beach to the right! Lord Howe Island, NSW
Pilchard looks ovethe Admiralty Islands from Malabar Hill.  Neds Beach to the right! Lord Howe Island, NSW

 

*Acrophobia= extreme or irrational fear of heights (although mine’s NOT irrational … and Pilchard doesn’t share it …)

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7 Days in … Cairns! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/03/7-days-in-cairns/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/03/7-days-in-cairns/#comments Sat, 17 Mar 2012 01:14:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=142 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Cairns is one of the best Australian travel destinations – and I’ve got the photos to prove it! This laid back city 2000 km north of Brisbane between World Heritage Listed Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, has come a long way from its sugar-cane farming roots to become Far North Queensland’s tourist hub. Cairns has just as much to[...]

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Barron River Mouth looking south towards Cairns, Queensland
Barron River Mouth looking south towards Cairns, Queensland

Cairns is one of the best Australian travel destinations – and I’ve got the photos to prove it! This laid back city 2000 km north of Brisbane between World Heritage Listed Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, has come a long way from its sugar-cane farming roots to become Far North Queensland’s tourist hub.

Cairns from the harbour, en route to Green Island!
Cairns from the harbour, en route to Green Island!

Cairns has just as much to offer travellers seeking cheap holidays as it does to those looking for luxury! In fact, the only problem will be limiting your visit to a week!!

Luckily, I’ve been travelling to Cairns for 20+ years – the time period over which these photos were taken – and Pilchard even longer!  So use our 7 Day Cairns sampler itinerary guide to get you started …

Day 1: Cairns Botanic Gardens

Ginger flower, Cairns Botanic Gardens
Ginger flower, Cairns Botanic Gardens

The pint-sized bag-snatcher at the Cairns Botanic Gardens Cafe was probably a one-off. No, really!! The toddler who picked up my handbag didn’t take kindly to Pilchard’s attempts to remove it from her grubby grasp.

Attracted by the shrieks, her rampaging mother berated Pilchard for making her darling cry, gave the child my bag to play with and turned back to her glass of wine table. With a) child clutching b) the handbag.

Now you tell me. Was it so unreasonable for Pilchard to insist on its return?

Rainforest boardwalk to Centenary Lakes
Rainforest boardwalk to Centenary Lakes

Sadly, this whole stultifying display of disturbed parenting could have been avoided if only I’d taken my handbag with me to the ladies room …

Happily, in addition to the Scenic Public Toilet, the large Cairns Botanic Gardens complex is full of distractions, with wonderful displays of tropical plants; several interpretive trails, magnificent butterflies and brightly coloured birds!

View from Loo, Cairns Botanic Gardens
View from Loo, Cairns Botanic Gardens

Although ‘wild boar’ sounds so much more exotic than ‘feral pig’, they’re both equally destructive when crashing through the undergrowth on the mangrove boardwalk through to the Centenary Lakes picnic area. Although I’d rather meet a wild pig than an unsupervised homo-sapiens (juv) allowed to run amok by overindulgent parents …

Spending the whole day in the gardens is easy – the 6.6 km Mt Whitfield trail loop gives splendid views over the busy international airport and Cairns itself. But I’m not sure if the group of school kids led by two young and ever so perky teachers we dodged on the track were a fair replacement for the cassowaries once common in the area.

Day 2: North to Port Douglas

Looking South over 4 mile Beach, Port Douglas
Looking South over 4 mile Beach, Port Douglas

The block of land for sale a few metres below the Port Douglas Lookout platform has the same staggering view. But would that be enough to counteract the 24/7 comings and goings above? Maybe the local residents were on to something when they tried to get the lookout closed …

Radjah Shelduck, Centenary Lakes, Cairns
Radjah Shelduck, Centenary Lakes, Cairns

The Lady Douglas probably isn’t the ritziest craft to cruise Dixon Inlet – but I’ll bet she’s the classiest! And if you want to take a look behind the scenes of what once was a small fishing village but is now amongst Australia’s most expensive real estate, the inlet is awash with wildlife – including crocodiles!

Time it right and attend – or miss, depending on your point of view – the Port Douglas markets, but whatever you do, DON’T miss Mocka’s Pies! This FAAAAABULOUS Bakery (come back for the cheese pasty, potato & pea pie, apple, lemon meringue – hell, come back for ANYTHING) has the well-deserved distinction of being our ALL TIME favourite!!!!

Day 3: Northern Beaches

Looking south from Machans Beach, Cairns, Far North Queensland
Looking south from Machans Beach, Cairns, Far North Queensland

Although the artificial lagoon, sandy beach and infinity pool are a good substitute for lack of foreshore beach, nothing beats the real thing! And heading north, the real thing is abundant starting about 20 km from the CBD.

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo on the beach, Cairns
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo on the beach, Cairns

Spend a day exploring all the beaches; or stay on one beach all day; or take an extra day and do both!! From the unspoiled excellence of Wangetti Beach (below the hang glider launch spot I’ll always be too gutless to try) to the ritz of Palm Cove; Ellis Beach between the highway and sea to the fabulous curve of Trinity Beach; Yorkeys Knob cliff and marina to the vast sand flats and rock wall at Machans – eateries, picnic and BBQ areas, walks, birdlife … there’s something for everyone!

Take your pick – and if you got it wrong, try again tomorrow!!

Day 4: Esplanade … and Cairns itself

Infinity Pool, Cairns Esplanade
Infinity Pool, Cairns Esplanade

Want a perfect day on the Cairns Esplanade?

WELL … my guest post on 52 Perfect Days will tell all!!

But because I’m a tease nice person, here’s a glimpse!!

Of course Cairns is much more than its foreshore! There’s shopping and eating precincts – yes, a bakery or two – the Visitor Information Centre, galleries, restaurants, museums … do I need to spell it out??

Day 5: Outdoors in the Rainforest …

Snakes, goannas, birds, butterflies, hungover backpackers – I’ve yet to visit Crystal Cascades without finding something interesting to watch!

This popular series of swimming holes on – you guessed it – Crystal Creek buried deep in the rainforest is a water supply access point but walkers can take the track for 1.2 km to the barrier for a taste of REAL rainforest and wildlife. Near the start of the trail, a track – classified as ‘strenuous’ and ‘rough’ – heads almost vertically upwards to Copperlode Dam in the ranges far above …

Goanna at Crystal Cascades, Cairns, Queensland
Goanna at Crystal Cascades, Cairns, Queensland

… and as if to prove it’s not all sunshine and serenity in the tropics, the temperature dropped 8ºC in the 25 km drive from Cairns CBD up the ranges to Copperlode Dam aka Lake Morris, 365 metres above sea level. And the hot soup that sounded so ridiculous in the balmy, high 20’s temperature on the coast was more than welcome in our efforts to counteract the chill wind!

It’s best to be sober when attempting this steep, twisting track with several one-way sections, and breathtaking (aka ‘hyperventilating’) dropaways, often being repaired after heavy rain at which time they become ‘washaways’ … But the stupendous views on each side of the range show just how much unexplored rainforest remains.

Copperlode Dam (aka Lake Morris), Cairns, Queensland
Copperlode Dam (aka Lake Morris), Cairns, Queensland

Ambitious walkers undaunted by the steep gradient can attempt further exploration on the 3km track dropping straight down from the dam to Crystal Cascades below …

Day 6: Islands

Frankland Islands, via Cairns
Frankland Islands, via Cairns

‘Tropical paradise’ is such a cliché – there’s only so much blue sky/clear water/white sand/palm trees you can take, right?

Perhaps. But a trip to the Frankland Islands or Green Island will leave you begging for more, cliché or no!

Trust me.

Day 7: Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway

AAARRRGGGGHHH!!  Skyrail!!
AAARRRGGGGHHH!!  Skyrail!!

Despite the jaw-dropping views above the unspoiled World Heritage listed rainforest canopy to the spectacular Cairns coastline, acrophobics* may find the 7.5 km Skyrail cable-car journey from Cairns to Kuranda (or vice versa) ‘challenging’.

But luckily, a couple of stops for the rainforest interpretive centre and Barron Falls lookout break the journey and allow equilibrium to be regained before another 6 person gondola – and the next leg!

But is going up the Kuranda Range by Skyrail any worse for acrophobics than dropping nearly 300 metres through 15 tunnels and across 40 rickety bridges crossing drop-away chasms down the super-steep Barron Gorge if returning via the 34 km Kuranda Scenic Railway?

Yep! That's a road crew repairing the track ... Kuranda Scenic Railway
Yep! That’s a road crew repairing the track … Kuranda Scenic Railway

As a recovering acrophobic I unreservedly recommend both trips – just breathe normally into that paper bag while taking photos all the way. And don’t look down …

Well, how quickly 7 Days can pass!

And I haven’t even started on heading south to the other side of Trinity Inlet, the Goldsborough Valley, and Gordonvale’s Cane Toad World!

Or west to the Atherton Tablelands …

That’s another 7 Days all by itself!!

Wangetti Beach - looking south from that KILLER hang gliding take-off spot!!
Wangetti Beach – looking south from that KILLER hang gliding take-off spot!!

I developed this 7 day guide based on visits to Cairns totalling MANY weeks over 20+ years!  Photos all taken 2009-2011, except the Kuranda train (1998) as that pic was better than the ones I have from later trips.

*Acrophobia= fear of heights

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