I suspected it when I first saw him in the distance.  Then he slipped on his super-cool aviator sunnies* and I knew it for sure. Our pilot and tour guide for the flight over Lake Eyre was a dead ringer** for Freddie Mercury!

Of course looking like the Queen ex-frontman didn’t guarantee anything.  But a top priority—not just for Freddie lookalikes but for ANY pilot—would be to keep yourself alive, wouldn’t it?

Good to know when you’re a nervous flyer waiting for the hammer to fall. Because during the four-hour tour, we’d fly over some of the most remote and inhospitable outback countryside in Australia!

The booking form had a field for total weight including the clothes you’d be wearing on the flight. I was tempted to lie, but figured I’d be outed as a fat-bottomed girl just by turning up. And besides, before Freddie (not his real name!) could make the 13-seater plane spread its wings and fly, he’d need to work a kind of magic and ensure it was properly balanced.

Easier said than done with a range of 13 different body sizes, shapes and weights to fit into super-narrow seats with super-constricting seat belts from which I knew I’d want to break free.

But even under pressure Freddie managed to play the game.  He matched people to seats, made sure our headphones were fully operational, and hurtled down the runway before we could say “God save the Queen”.

Leaving Coober Pedy

After leaving opal mining town Coober Pedy’s distinctive moonscape of mullock heaps*** behind, the first leg of the flight north-east to Lake Eyre North covered some spectacularly arid scenery. That was unsurprising given that the town’s rainfall for the year to date before this mid-June flight had totalled just 19.8 mm (0.8 inches).

Rolling rocky ranges in the rich outback colour palette of ochres, reds and greens unfolded far beneath, and massive dry riverbeds cut feathery patterns into the sand and rock far below.  Trees cast long shadows in the early morning light, and straight roads bisected the dry country below where occasional vehicles seemingly heading into oblivion traversed the endless landscape trailing powdery plumes. Out here in the harsh desert environment, being prepared could determine if another one bites the dust or not.

Although 1974 was the last time its area of 9,500 km² (3668 mi²) was filled to capacity, Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is Australia’s largest salt lake, and one of the largest in the world.

It also has Australia’s lowest natural point at 15 metres (49 ft) below sea level.  If flying over the lake wasn’t considered cheating, I could tick two more Aussie records off my list.

Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre

After two days experiencing Coober Pedy’s arid conditions and 90 minutes of flying over the dry and dusty desert we were completely unprepared for a volume of water so massive it merged with the horizon.  Larger than life–just like Freddie’s namesake–but really to be expected out here where huge distances, huge landscapes and huge skies are just the norm. As my shutter-button finger went into overdrive, I felt this crazy little thing called love for the outback and its magnificent, but ever-changing panoramas.

From Lake Eyre North, we flew south along the lake’s western edge where flocks of birds could occasionally be seen below. The salt-encrusted lake’s edge contrasted with the colours of the water in a breathtaking array of coloured lines and patterns and tiny vehicles came and went from the Halligan Bay Point camping area.

William Creek

A short time later we were touching down in William Creek for morning tea at Australia’s most remote pub while the plane was being refuelled.  The smallest town in Oz, closest town to Lake Eyre, and home of Wrightsair (our tour operator), its permanent population of three**** was outnumbered by the planes on the runway. Now that water from heavy rains in the northern catchment a few weeks earlier was flowing into Lake Eyre North, Wrightsair scenic tours, especially the flight over Lake Eyre were in hot demand and pilots from all over were working around the clock.

But the show must go on, so Freddie herded us back to the plane for the return flight west to Coober Pedy. Now nearly noon, the day was warming up and the flight over the little-known Anna Creek Painted Hills promised to be the ‘we will rock you’ leg. But who wants to live forever anyway?! The bumpy flight combined with the amount of morning tea some passengers had eaten was a killer combination. But no matter, Freddie had pointed out the on-board barf bags, which ensured it was heaven for everyone!

Anna Creek Station, 34 km (21 mi) from William Creek and 160 km (99 mi) east of Coober Pedy, is the largest working cattle station in the world and at 23,667 km² (9,142 mi²) in area, just a little bigger than Israel or El Salvador or Belize. Station land completely surrounds William Creek, and the property is also over seven times bigger than King Ranch in Texas, often cited as one of the largest in the world.

Anna Creek Painted Hills

The Anna Creek Painted Hills unfolded below in a symphony of colours and shapes.  Only accessible by air and on a guided tour, I could see a lucky tour group exploring the area below and was consumed by jealousy. Was it so wrong to want it all?  A few hundred (give or take) photos later, we left the hills behind—but I knew I was born to love them.

Then in a flash we were flying over the bohemian rhapsody that makes up the distinctive landscape of Coober Pedy’s mullock heaps***, mines, accommodation and rock formations again. With so many hazards on the ground, it was no bicycle race down there. Freddie’s flight radio was going ga-ga as we touched down. But as the plane taxied down the runway, I wanted to scream ‘don’t stop me now’, and turn around to do it all again. It’s a hard life.

Yes, the tour really is that good. Tie your mother down if that’ll get you on a Lake Eyre flight—although I can’t guarantee you’ll be piloted by fab Freddie, who, by the way, obligingly posed for photos once we’d disembarked.

Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre Flight Fast Facts:

Where to find it: Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is 647 km (402 mi) north-east of Adelaide, and is part of the Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre National Park.

How to get there: Fly or drive to Coober Pedy, 850 km (528 mi) north-west of Adelaide.  From Coober Pedy, it’s a further 166 km (103 mi) to William Creek. The lake is also accessible from Marree at the start of the Oodnadatta Track 655 km (407 mi) north of Adelaide.

Things to do:  Experience the lake from above by taking a flight.  We flew with Wrightsair, based in William Creek and flew from Coober Pedy with a stopover in William Creek.  Flights are also available from Port Augusta, Marree, William Creek, Rawnsley Park (Flinders Ranges) and Parachilna (and some further afield) all of which offer accommodation, although availability should be checked before arrival.

On the ground, drive to the lake via the Oodnadatta Track from Coober Pedy/William Creek or Marree. Campgrounds are available in the National Park, and a Desert Parks Pass is required for access. Extreme care must be taken when travelling in the remote outback (see below for link).

When to go: Although it rarely fills to capacity, Lake Eyre has some water most years, but is most spectacular when flooded by outback rains.  The Australian winter months of June to August are the most comfortable for outback travel.

Want MORE?

• Coober Pedy and William Creek, South Australia
• WrightsAir Scenic Flights
• Photos of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre and Anna Creek Painted Hills
• Guide to Australian Outback Travel

*  Sunnies = Australian for sunglasses
** Dead Ringer = Aussie slang for lookalike
*** Mullock Heap = a cone-shaped mound of loose stone left over from mining operations
**** According to the Wrightsair website

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The post Freddie and the Flight over Lake Eyre! Coober Pedy, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Kangaroo Island Bushfires

Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.  

I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. He was telling me about his reaction to the horrific bushfires, started by lightning strikes, that burnt more than 46% of the island’s 440,500 hectares (1,700 square miles) over several weeks of the 2019/2020 Australian summer.  Two lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze, numerous farms and businesses ruined and thousands of animals—both livestock and wildlife—perished.

I knew what he meant.  I had just seen the devastation he was describing for myself from the Bunker Hill observation point that looks out over the coastal plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 square miles), or about 96% of the bushland in the park was destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting sight.  

Kangaroo Island Today

Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands and dense coastal scrub, the rolling hills and plains were open and bare where the understory and low vegetation had been burnt away. In many places, only scorched tree trunks remained, very different to the verdant forests I remembered from my only other visit to Kangaroo Island 15 years earlier.

The bushfires have had devastating environmental, economic and personal consequences for Kangaroo Island’s 4,500-strong population, and have forever separated its history into “before” and “after” the blaze.  Recovery on all fronts has been long, slow and hindered even further by COVID-19 restrictions. 

Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s easy to see why the national park still attracts many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000 annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the bushland’s regeneration is well under way.  A mantle of green is starting to cover the blackened ground and new growth sprouts from the burnt tree trunks.  

The island has become a land of dramatic contrasts. In the forest and farmland, the fire’s trail of destruction can end abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and untouched greenery side by side. Rocks, dunes and land formations are now strikingly bare where ground cover and the understory once hid them. In places, where the flames reached the sea, there is now an eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened vegetation against the island’s signature aquamarine waters.

Visiting the island now is not only a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness its regeneration first hand, but  also to assist community recovery by providing much needed cash flow to affected businesses and tourism operators.

Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced “kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. 

Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi) length is a journey through a stunning wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres (335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched beaches and dune systems, rivers and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant life, fresh regional produce and friendly locals all add to the relaxed island vibe.  Despite the devastation of the fires, the attractions are all still here. A day or two will not be enough to experience everything the island has to offer.

How to get here

The fastest way to reach KI is a 30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres (13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry terminal at Cape Jervis. 

From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis at its south-western tip. Driving from Adelaide gives the option of taking your own vehicle on the ferry, recommended for those who wish to explore the entire island. Caravans, camper trailers and campers can also be taken on the ferry, although tours are available for those without transportation.

My travelling companions and I decided to drive from Adelaide and first explore parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf. As we only had a few hours before our ferry departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s stunning coastline and picturesque inland region wouldn’t be possible. 

Instead, we chose a cross-section of attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s long jetty and red rocky walls above the Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop, in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue waters of Normanville beach; and Second Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.

Backstairs Passage, the strait between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for its rough seas so choosing the best time to cross can be like picking a winning lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our afternoon crossing was a rough one, but not as bad as the morning trip when most of a large school excursion group became violently sea-sick.  

A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy seas can mean a greater chance of spotting ocean-going birds such as shearwaters, petrels and albatross, not usually seen this close to land.  The only trick is to stay upright on deck and hold the binoculars steady as the ferry heaves and rolls through the waves and cross-currents.

Kangaroo Island History

Discovery of stone tools, middens (ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave shelters on KI are proof of Australian Indigenous occupation, thought to pre-date colonial settlement by up to 65,000 years. It is believed that a group of people remained on the island when rising waters separated it from the mainland 10,000 years ago during the last glacial period.  Evidence also indicates they left the island 2,000 – 4,000 years before European colonisation, although it is unclear how or why.

Indigenous people from the mainland knew the island as Karta Pintingga or “Island of the dead”. This is because during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the period in which life was created, a Spirit Ancestor travelled to the island en route to the Milky Way and was followed here by spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.

There is some doubt as to when colonial exploration of KI began. The generally accepted version starts in 1802 when Matthew Flinders landed here while on an expedition to map Australia’s southern coastline for the British Government aboard HMS Investigator.  He unimaginatively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for its many kangaroos, a welcome source of fresh meat.

After leaving the island, the Investigator met French ship Le Geographe, captained by Nicolas Baudin. Although their countries were at war, the two captains exchanged information and later that year, Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline, giving many of its geographic features French names.

However, the discovery of an inscription on a tree in the Cygnet River locality dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat meat” indicates that the island was already known by then. To whom, and for how long is unknown.

Baudin’s crew later met some American sealers aboard the brig Union and passed on details of the island to them. The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began, closely followed by the arrival of whalers.

In 1836, the first free (non-convict) European settlement in Australia was established on KI by the British based South Australian Company.  Faced with many difficulties, most of the colony relocated to the mainland four years later, leaving behind a few settlers whose tenacity and ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are characteristics still evident in the present-day KI community.  

Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for its quality and exported around the world. A variety of industries includes honey from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world; boutique wineries, breweries and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood; eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products; oats and other cereal crops; along with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and beauty products, all available from local outlets and shopfronts.

Penneshaw and the Dudley Peninsula

The ferry docks at the small town of Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern end, a good base for exploring the Dudley Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the peninsula’s natural attractions are a good introduction to life on KI. 

We spent a day exploring the three conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s south-eastern coastline. From mid-May to late October, southern right whales and the occasional humpback whale can be seen from the cliff tops along this section of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s largest animal, can also be seen from the shores, although they are more likely to be found feeding in upwelling zones further offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water rises from the ocean depths.

Baudin Conservation Park, with its coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east of Penneshaw, not to be confused with Baudin Beach to the south-west.

Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby, is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching and canoeing.  There’s a popular camping area where the Chapman River, which flows through the park, enters the ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful sandy beach.

At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost, where South Australia’s first lighthouse was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached museum and walking trails around the cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby conservation park.

Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset over Christmas Cove.  Then take an evening tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula minor) coming ashore on the beaches and cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.

Hog Bay Road follows a string of beaches, including Baudin Beach, south-west from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill, right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where it adjoins the central and western parts of the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’ footsteps and climb the large sand dune, KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views north across Pelican Lagoon to American River and south to Pennington Bay. These days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep climb easier while protecting the fragile dunes beneath.

American River

From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre (6 mi) drive north to the small settlement of American River.  After staying in Penneshaw overnight, we moved here for the remainder of our stay as it offers easier access to the rest of KI’s attractions.

The locality was named in true Aussie style for a group of American sealers who camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon, an ocean inlet which they mistakenly thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus atratus) and other water birds plentiful.  

“Every morning I’d be given a koala to nurse for the day,” Kylie, an accommodation host based in American River, told me. “The next morning I’d be told that the koala I’d been looking after had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.”  She and her husband had only lived on the island a short time before the fires, and even though the American River community wasn’t directly under threat, the smoke was so thick they thought they’d have to leave. They and their neighbours spent some tense nights watching the glow in the sky and hearing horror stories about what was happening at the other end of the island.

Once the fires raged out of control and all visitors had returned to the mainland, Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife rescue centre, set up to care for the influx of injured animals rescued by locals and firefighters.

While exact pre- and post-bushfire numbers are unknown, it is believed that 80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI perished.  About 40% of those treated in the centre were rehabilitated to be released back into the wild, thanks to the tireless work of volunteers and donations from around the world.

The Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge where I was a guest, is located right across the road from the American River inlet.  With comfortable and well-appointed rooms, an excellent restaurant and friendly, helpful staff, it’s also a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. Don’t miss sunrise over the inlet—the colours, reflections and waterbird silhouettes can be stunning.  Afterwards, treat yourself to the wonderful breakfast buffet in the restaurant.

Famous for its seafood, American River’s most well known (and possibly most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood including local oysters, abalini (baby abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish), King George whiting and calamari. 

Just outside town a hiking trail leads to the remains of the town’s historic fish cannery, established around 1890, but abandoned two years later as there was no way to store and keep excess fish. A short drive north-west of town is Redbanks, where multi-coloured cliffs tower above the beach.

KI is home to an endemic subspecies of the critically endangered glossy black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus), and the American River flock can often be seen around the town and nearby bushland. 

Kingscote and North Coast

Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24 mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s largest town and commercial centre. The first free Australian settlement was set up at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with walking trails and historic sites listed on the South Australian Heritage Register. The Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots. Look for sea lions and dolphins in the waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.

Explore the north coast’s secluded beaches from here, including the white sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this region were hit hard by the bushfires, but much of the north-coast, especially the eastern end, is now accessible.

Snellings View, where I was a guest, makes an excellent base from which to discover the delights of the North Coast’s stunning coastal scenery—or just hide away and relax. With magnificent views over Snellings beach and the surrounding farmland from the deck, the open-plan lounge/dining area and both double bedrooms, this luxurious getaway is fully self-contained. Photos from a book produced by the owners show that the bushfires burned right up to the deck.

“I was wearing my mother’s engagement ring and a ring belonging to my late sister that day.  My other jewellery and belongings were obliterated in the fire,” Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing the devastating losses the day that she and her partner lost their home.  

“A year later, I’m still discovering things I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot of photos to Facebook because my hard drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement of living in temporary accommodation without a permanent home to which they can return isn’t easy either.

Priscilla and her partner are now rebuilding, but the process is hampered by the logistics of living on an island. Returning to normal life is still a long way off but the support of the KI community, all of whom have been affected in some way by the fires, has been invaluable.

The South Coast

The South Coast road is known for its nature- and adventure-based attractions.  Although the fire reached the sea here, the stunning colours, white sandy beaches and rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy to see why this beach was declared  best in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s best beach location.  Spend a day swimming, surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking or canoeing the Harriet River which meets the sea at the bay.

Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing. Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat bikes are also on offer by tour companies, with guided walking tours and kayaking also available.

Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be observed from the Visitor Centre viewing platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.

Flinders Chase National Park

From American River, we took the 105 kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the Flinders Chase National Park entrance, taking about 75 minutes. En route, the fire damage became progressively worse until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout mentioned above, where the worst effects of the fire can be seen.

In the far south-west at Cape du Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is intact, a stark contrast with other coastal sections of the park now blackened and burnt.  The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five day trek passing through here, was badly damaged by the fires, but a modified version is now open. It is a rare opportunity to see bushland regeneration firsthand and view open landscapes not previously visible when covered by dense vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also available.

Seals and other Wildlife

From the cape, a boardwalk descends into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets.  By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted almost to extinction for their thick, water repellent pelts.  From 1900, various levels of protection have applied to the islets, and now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine Parks protect the waters these seals call home.

Wildlife is returning to the bushfire zone, although much of the habitat they relied on for food and shelter was destroyed. Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are able to bury themselves underground during bushfires in order to survive.

Weirs Cove

KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable waters have been responsible for over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda, the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives were lost in the surrounding waters. Before road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and visitors—were hoisted from the nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre (300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement via a primitive “flying fox” winching system made of pulleys and ropes.

Remarkable Rocks

Ironically, no vegetation obscures the park’s most well known feature—the Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires. The tumbling pile of fractured granite blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on a large dome of exposed granite above a sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove and the coast-hugging road. A coating of bright orange lichen renders some of the rocks even more bizarre. 

Featuring in films such as “Napoleon” (1995), and “The December Boys” (2007), the rocks have also starred in countless home movies and social media posts. Many visitors have their photo taken under the “Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling above the rocky base.  Exploring the odd shapes and textures of the rocks can take a while if you’ve got a camera, and watching other people exploring the rocks can take even longer.

Although these were the only park attractions open to the public during our stay, I wasn’t disappointed.  Seeing the park’s recovery firsthand replaced the despair I had felt when watching the horrifying blaze on the news night after night.  I’m already looking forward to returning once more attractions have reopened.

Come to Kangaroo Island

Indisputably, the close-knit KI community is known for its resilience and courage, and for working together to preserve and protect the island they love.  After seeing the beauty that remains and regeneration in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent that this island is a special place. 

While full recovery may take many more years, don’t leave it too long to experience its wonders.  Kangaroo Island’s attractions await!

Want MORE?

• More about Kangaroo Island HERE
• More about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE
• The original version of this article first appeared in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2021. For more interesting travel stories check out GlobeRovers HERE.

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For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds.  On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)!  Here’s how!

A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs.  It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.

135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.

Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!

1 Sunrise at Ghost Gum Lookout:

‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.

Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?

No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!

I’d just experienced it in a different spot.

Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge.  They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.

Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.

Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …

As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area.  Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.

Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.

Hunting for fish.

No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!

We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.

But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.

Na na nana nah!

2 Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk

This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights.  Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail.  That’s just part of the fun.

But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!

If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!

3 Larapinta LITE:

The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.

But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road.  It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.

We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track.  Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.

BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!

Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!

4 Glen Helen Gorge:

The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!

But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.

Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.

And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!

5 Mt Sonder Lookout:

Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!

And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!

There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it.  But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.

It’s a fine view in its own right.  And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.

6 Ormiston Gorge Campground:

The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.

So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.

Well, almost!

I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??

Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.

‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.

But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.

The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.

Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?

With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.

Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.

Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?

And if so, what does that make US?

7 Ghost Gum Loop at Sunset:

The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall.  The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.

Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.

But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!

Read More about Central Australia:

• Walk Ormiston Gorge and Pound
• Glen Helen Gorge
• Standley Chasm
• Aussie ABC – G is for Gorge
• Aussie ABC – A is for Alice Springs
• MacDonnell Ranges

The post My Top 7 Things to Do – Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Thargomindah is conveniently located between Eulo and Noccundra – two other Outback Queensland localities you’ve probably never heard of.  At over 1000 km (620 miles) west of Brisbane, it’s not a place you come across by chance. But there are plenty of things to do in Thargomindah. As part of the Adventure Way, a self-drive trail from Brisbane to Innamincka just over the South Australian border, it’s worth stopping over to see what this remote Outback area has to offer.

The Bulloo in Flood

The Bulloo River was in flood when we arrived.  And getting into Thargo, as the locals call it, meant crossing the river at the town’s eastern entrance.

That gave us a rare opportunity to test our camper trailer’s ability to withstand over 30 cm (12 inches) of flood waters over the causeway by driving through it.

Thargomindah’s hydro-electric scheme

When the bore was first drilled, water was first found at a 795 metre (2608 feet) depth.  With around 1300 cubic metres of water at 84 degrees C produced per day, the pressure was used to generate the town’s electricity supply, Australia’s first hydro-electric scheme.  The bore is part of Australia’s Great Artesian Basin, a network of underground aquifers covering 1.7 million square kilometres that makes living in many outback areas viable.

We did get to experience sunset at the bore though, when the steam rising from the hot water against a setting sun made wonderful photo opportunities. 

The importance of water in the Outback

When I first saw Frederick White’s sculpture ‘Drawing Water’ from a distance, I thought it was an unfinished public amenities block.  That’s how much I know about art.

But the sculpture is actually a clever reminder of Thargomindah’s reliance on bore water.  Its 52 poles symbolise the 4,700 bores that deliver a reliable source of water to Outback Australia, without which the area would be uninhabitable for much of the year.  The outback bore’s average depth of 500 metres (1640 feet) is represented by reflective discs in the centre. Ironically, these were covered in dust, with no sign of the floods that had isolated the town for several months earlier that year.

The manager of the Explorers Caravan Park where we stayed says rain often bypasses the town and falls further north in the catchment area, causing the river to flood. The amount of water lying in the street made us think it must rain quite often – but the street water came from sprinklers and hoses running 24/7 to ensure a ready supply of hot water from the bore.  Modifications completed since our visit ensures this no longer needs to happen.  But having a reliable water supply means that the townsfolk can have green lawns and gardens in the middle of the outback all year round.

Thargomindah Town Attractions

Start your search for things to do in Thargomindah at the Visitor Information Centre.  It’s located in the old Thargomindah hospital complex, also an historic museum.  Made from mud bricks, the building started life as a hospital in 1888.  Later it accommodated a visiting service from the Flying Doctor base in Charleville, and an outpatient clinic.  Mud brick buildings were common in the early days, but the old hospital is one of the few remaining buildings of this type.

Leahy House is also made from mud brick and now houses a museum. The house was once owned by Sir Sidney Kidman, the well known cattle baron.  Its permanent displays and exhibitions offer another insight into the history of the region, as does the Old Jail.

An old Cobb & Co crossing below the Bulloo River bridge is the start of the River Walk, and also part of the town heritage walk.  This dodgy and rocky river crossing was once the main access to town, meaning no access when the river was in flood.  In the 1890’s, Thargo was the centre for Cobb & Co coaches servicing the surrounding area, once the only way of moving between towns.

For a good introduction to the things to do in Thargomindah, take one – or all – of its three town walks.  The scenic Bulloo River Walk follows the river from the Cobb & Co Crossing to the Pelican Point Picnic area. The Heritage Walk winds through the town past buildings and sites of interest.  The Hydro Walk starts in town, passes the new bore and continues to the Hydro Power Plant display.

Lake Bindegolly National Park

Nearby Lake Bindegolly was completely dry on our first visit, making birdwatching a bit pointless.  The number of birds spotted as we trudged the 9.5 km (5.9 mile) circuit track around this dusty wasteland was easy to count. Zero.

Easily visible from the road, thousands of Great Crested Grebe were nesting.  We watched as they cavorted on the water around us, swimming, hunting, fighting, building nests, hatching eggs, playing dead when they spotted us. 

Back at the car was another problem.  Unable to manage parking in one of the many empty spots in this spacious car park, the only other tourist for miles had parked directly behind us. Whether she or he intended to box us in is unknown as we didn’t exchange words.  But it’s definitely possible she or he didn’t figure on Pilchard’s ability to execute a 17 point turn to extricate us, a masterclass in precision driving.

Thargomindah Fast Facts

• Where:  1000 km west of Brisbane, 200 km west of Cunnamulla
• How to get there:  Self-drive the Adventure Way, Thargomindah is on the Bulloo Developmental Road
• Facilities:  Supermarket (with hardware), Roadhouse (with meals), Pub, Post Office, Community Centre with internet access, Library, Swimming Pool, public park with Barbecues
• Where to Stay: Two motels and a caravan park in town, and a station stay 90 km south.

Want MORE?

• Lake Bindegolly National Park
• The Thargo Thunderbox – Thargo’s own scenic loo
• Nearby localities Noccundra, Eulo, Quilpie and Toompine
• More about the Bulloo Region

The post Things to do in Thargomindah, Outback Queensland appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The best Australian sunset spots are easy to find.  Road-trip almost anywhere downunder, and sooner or later the three main conditions for a great sunset – wide open spaces, big sky and a prop (or two) – will come together.  According to me, anyway.

Don’t know where to find the best Australian sunset spots?  No problem!  Over the years I’ve discovered a lot of staggeringly scenic sunset viewing locations around OZ, so sit back, relax and let me show you my favourites – and therefore the best Australian sunset spots – complete with links to stories about each of the destinations for your reading pleasure.

You’re welcome!  Enjoy!!

1. Hopetoun, Victoria

After a long day on the road a few years ago, we stopped at Hopetoun, a small Murray Mallee town in Western Victoria. It’s not far to Wyperfeld National Park and the extensive Silo Art trail runs right through it.  Hopetoun was such a good base for exploring this part of the Mallee we ended up staying a few extra nights.

In the evening, retreat to Lake Lascelles on the edge of town. The excellent campground with powered sites and free camping is a great place to relax as the sun sinks down behind the lake.

Discover more of the magic of Hopetoun and the Murray Mallee HERE!

2. Ballina, New South Wales

The Northern Rivers Region of north New South Wales is a treasure trove of sub-tropical rainforest, beautiful beaches, amazing coastal scenery, hinterland towns, whale watching and a totally relaxed vibe.  Most visitors head for Byron Bay, Australia’s easternmost point, but Ballina, just a few kilometres south, is equally scenic but far less touristy.

Yes, it’s on the east coast so the sun doesn’t set over the sea – but the massive breakwall at the mouth of the Richmond River was almost purpose built to watch the sun sink over the town and (almost) into the water.

I’ve spent a lot of time in Ballina over the years – read about some of my early adventures in the Northern Rivers Region HERE!

3. Lake Moogerah, Scenic Rim Region, Queensland

South-eastern Queensland’s Scenic Rim Region is an extensive network of spectacular rocky peaks and mountain ranges formed by long-ago volcanic activity.  Several national parks showcase the area’s best features, and its small towns provide a focus for regional produce.

Nestled amidst this wonderland of natural attractions is the man-made Lake Moogerah.  As well as being fun to explore and an excellent base from which to discover the region, the lake is a sensational sunset (and sunrise) viewing spot.

It’s easy to spend a week or more in the Scenic Rim – find out how to do that HERE!

4. Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

The 700 km (434 mile) long coastline of South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula is full of magnificent swimming and surfing beaches, rocky cliffs, clear blue waters, white sand and lighthouses.  There’s a reason it’s known as the Shipwreck coast!  The numerous scenic public loos are painted with murals that showcase the region’s attractions and history.

The coast is dotted with many sunset viewing spots, but my personal favourite includes the stunning silhouettes of the Wattle Point wind farm wind turbines!

For more of the attractions and scenery that give the Southern Yorke Peninsula its magic, go HERE!

5. Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia

Western Australia’s Kimberley region is full of rocky mountain ranges, wide open spaces and massive tidal rivers.  The small town of Wyndham has all these features in abundance, and from its most well-known attraction, five rivers (and two scenic loos!) can be seen.  Yes, really!

It’s not easy to get all five rivers in one photo, as the vista is too broad for all but the widest of wide angle lenses.  But the view at sunset makes the lookout a worthy addition to the best Australian sunset spots.

The town of Wyndham isn’t just about the lookout, however – read all about its other attractions HERE!

6. Thargomindah, Outback Queensland

Remote Thargomindah has the distinction of being the third town in the world (after London and Paris) to have hydroelectric street lighting.  While this fact is celebrated with a three-flag display, there’s virtually no other resemblance to Thargo’s sister cities.

With wall to wall outback scenery on offer, Thargomindah provides a full-on genuine Outback experience. That includes taking in a sunset at the artesian bore, although there are plenty of other wide open spaces and big skies if a steamy sunset isn’t your thing.

It’s been awhile since I visited Thargomindah, but you can read all about it in the guest post I wrote for Rocky Travel HERE!

7. Hay Plain, Deniliquin, New South Wales

A massive plain the size of Denmark isn’t necessarily the easiest place to spot a rare bird the size of a quail, but that’s exactly what I was looking for on the Hay plain near Deniliquin in central New South Wales.  Luckily, the town of Deniliquin is on the banks of the Edward River, and near the Murray Valley National Park.  These provide some alternative attractions for those who are unsuccessful in (or don’t care about) locating the birds.

Spotting a killer sunset is a cinch with a plain and sky this big – it’s even better with a bit of cloud or a tree to set off the amazing colours.

Find out whether my rare bird hunt in Deniliquin was successful HERE!

8.  Victoria River, via Timber Creek, Northern Territory

Known as Australia’s wildest river, the Victoria River near the small town of Timber Creek is chock-a-block full of crocodiles.  Take a 70 km (43 mile) round trip by purpose-built boat down the river to see more crocodiles per kilometre than any other croc-spotting tour in OZ!

The trip also includes a bus tour introducing features of the township and surrounds en route to the boat.  It’s easy to spend an extra couple of days exploring the region to discover some of the elements of its intriguing history for yourself.  The sunsets are spectacular from the high lookout point above the town, but even more so from river level as the sun sinks behind the Yarrambin ranges.  With luck, it’ll be closely followed by a moonrise!

Read more about my adventure cruising with crocodiles on the Victoria River from Timber Creek HERE!

9.  Lake Cullulleraine, Victoria

When we stopped at the tiny settlement on the shores of Lake Cullulleraine about 58 km (36 miles) west of Mildura, we were just looking for a place to set up camp for the night.  What we found was a place so relaxing, we used it as a base to explore the area around the city of Mildura for a few more days.

When that got to be too much, we hung out at the caravan park, walked around the lake and watched the sunsets.  And took photos.  Since then, Lake Cullulleraine has been our preferred stopover point when passing through the area.

My first two visits to Lake Cullulleraine, with more about what we discovered to see and do there, can be found HERE and HERE!

10.  Broken Hill, New South Wales

Often referred to as the ‘Accessible Outback’, bitumen roads lead all the way to the mining town of Broken Hill in the middle of a desert in the middle of nowhere.  The clear light, intense colours of rock, earth and sky and dramatic shapes and silhouettes have inspired many artists.  It’s not hard to see why at dusk when the desert is bathed in a golden glow.

Several museums in town detail the history of the area, and display samples of the minerals found in the area, and the Living Desert reserve just out of town showcases the desert landscape.  The Living Desert Sculpture Park is also the best place for sunset viewing, and the prime locations are staked out well in advance.

Find my story about my trip to Tibooburra and Cameron Corner via Broken Hill HERE!

11. Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

OK, at 700 km (~420 miles) north-east of Sydney, Lord Howe Island isn’t exactly a road-trip destination.  This tiny, eco-friendly island is a sub-tropical paradise full of amazing natural attractions, unique wildlife, staggering scenery and world exclusives.  It’s an action-adventure kind of holiday destination, where hiking, snorkelling, walking, kayaking, boating, fishing, and diving are key activities.

At the end of the day, when everything slows right down to island time, a killer sunset is almost impossible to avoid. That’s why it deserves a place on any list of the best Australian sunset spots!

It’s easy to spend a week on Lord Howe Island – find out how HERE!

12. Bruny Island, Tasmania

OK, ok – so this isn’t actually a full-blown sunset.  But do yourself a favour anyway, and take the short drive south from Hobart to Kettering and catch the ferry to Bruny Island.  There’s nothing much between this unspoiled little gem and Antarctica, so expect wild and rugged terrain, magnificent scenery and an amazing selection of wildlife.

Take a cruise past the second-highest sea-cliffs in the southern hemisphere and through towering rock stacks while dolphin-spotting, bird-watching and getting up close to a grunting mass of Australian Fur Seals for an unforgettable experience.  Then chill out down by the wharf while awaiting the ferry back to the Tasmanian mainland and watch the sunset over the D’Entrecasteaux channel.  If the ferry doesn’t turn up early, that is!

My Bruny Island cruise adventure was one of my all-time favourite Aussie tours ever!  Go HERE to find out why!

13. Cadney Park Homestead, South Australia

Most road-trippers don’t see Cadney Park Homestead, a roadhouse about 153 km (95 miles) north of Coober Pedy on the Stuart Highway, as a destination in its own right.  But as gateway to the spectacular Painted Desert, deep in the South Australian Outback, it’s worth staying for a couple of nights.

There’s the added bonus of a superb sunset, especially when the cloud rolls in.

Read more about my Cadney Park stopover and trip to the Painted Desert HERE!

14. Broome, Western Australia

In Australia’s far northwest, the town of Broome has a unique history and culture based around pearling.  Its easy to spend a week or two – or even longer – exploring its distinctive natural attractions.  But it’s standing room only during the Australian winter when visitors from the south flock north in search of warmth.

The intense colours of the sea, sky and red Pindan soil that characterise Broome’s landscape fade into insignificance at sunset when the sky fills with astonishing colour.  The sky show is best viewed from Gantheaume point where the sun sets over the sea.

Find out why Broome is so popular during the Australian winter months HERE!

15. Derby, Western Australia

Derby Jetty is the best place to watch the phenomenon of the highest tidal range in Australia – up to 12 metres difference between high and low tides.  At low tide, the jetty is well out of the water and the mud flats below are exposed.  At high tide the water almost laps at the top of the jetty.  Any time of tide can be a good time for crocodile spotting.

The jetty is also one of the best Australian sunset spots around as the sun sinks below the waters of King Sound and the sky and water lights up.

Read more about Derby’s massive tides HERE!

16. Farina Station, Outback South Australia

Farina was once a town set up to support a large wheat growing region, but relentless drought and a non-permanent water supply caused the venture to fail.  That’s what happens in the middle of the driest state of the driest continent on earth.

Nowadays, the abandoned township is on Farina Station, and is slowly being restored.  The repairs are funded by the old Farina bakery, operated by volunteers for several months during the Australian winter.  That alone is a good enough reason to visit, but the sunsets from Anzac Hill above the campground make it doubly worthwhile.

I first discovered the Farina Bakery a few years ago now, but I’ve been there several times since. Read about my first visit HERE!

17. Karlu Karlu/Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

From the Stuart Highway, about 412 km (256 miles) north of Alice Springs, the Devils Marbles are an unmistakable tumble of various-sized rocks scattered over the surrounding plain.  The Indigenous name – Karlu Karlu – translates as ’round boulders’, and the rocks feature in local Indigenous lore.

At sunset, the marbles glow in the evening light, when the colours become even more impressive.

Exploring the Devils Marbles is a fun part of touring Central Australia.  Take a look at some of the region’s other attractions HERE!

18. Sydney, New South Wales

Finding the next super Aussie sunset isn’t limited to road-tripping the more remote areas of the Outback.  There’s always an opportunity waiting, as I found when flying into Sydney at sunset with the atmosphere full of bushfire smoke, creating an almost post-apocalyptic panorama.

Of course this shot was just good luck for me, but I wouldn’t have got it at all if my camera wasn’t easily accessible.  Finding a good sunset shot is also possible on the ground in Sydney – and there are lots of other good reasons to visit.

Find out how I made the most of a Sydney layover with four hours between flights HERE!

19. Sanctuary Lakes, Melbourne, Victoria

While I don’t spend a lot of time hanging out in big cities, I can still appreciate the photographic opportunities they bring.  While staying in Melbourne’s west, I was lucky enough to be at the wetlands near Sanctuary Lakes in the late afternoon, with an uninhibited view of the Melbourne skyline, lit up by the setting sun behind me.

Visiting a large city doesn’t necessarily have to mean exploring attractions in the CBD or even suburbia!  I got to explore a completely different side of Melbourne where I’m betting not many others have been.  Where?  Go HERE to find out!

20. Darwin, Northern Territory

Australia’s northernmost capital city, Darwin, enjoys a laid back lifestyle that keeps visitors coming back for more.  Bombed in World War II and devastated by a cyclone in 1974, the city has many natural and historical attractions to explore.

The popular Mindil Beach markets are a great place to purchase a picnic from the many stalls and watch the sun sinking into the Timor Sea.

Other Darwin attractions can be found HERE!

Everywhere I go on my Aussie travels is another opportunity to find a great sunset spot. So keep watching – I’ll be adding more as I find them!

Want MORE?

There are even more of the best Australian sunset spots I’ve discovered in my travels right HERE on Flickr!

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The post Best Australian Sunset Spots … and the stories that go with them! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early.

As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek.

Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good.

A couple of hours later, our lonesome loser neighbour finally dropped into a drunken stupor putting an end to both the impromptu musical experiment and our misery.

Two bleary-eyed hours drive west got us to the Northern Territory/Western Australia border (the flat tyre didn’t help) where we scored an extra 90 minutes, courtesy of the time difference between the NT and Western Australia. Making it about 9:00 am, WA time!

Half an hour later, the different world – make that universe – of our camp-site at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park on the shores of Lily Creek Lagoon – with lonesome losers noticeably absent – made an excellent base from which to explore the attractions of the East Kimberley.

And because we’d got there so early in the morning, we could get started on our long, long list of things to do in Kununurra and surrounds straight away.

Yes, camping in Kununurra is the best way to see it all – and there’s a LOT to see and do for independent travellers who like natural attractions.  We were planning a four-day stay – but ended up being there for 10!

SO … where to start?  Just use this list of my favourite things to do in Kununurra and start exploring!

I hope you enjoy them (and Kununurra!) as much as we did

1 Kelly’s Knob and the Ivanhoe Café

It’s VERY convenient that the best view of Kelly’s Knob in Kununurra is from the Ivanhoe Café! Or is that just MY opinion??  If you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself spending a LOT of time at the cafe, especially during the heat of the day when exploring grinds to a halt.

That’s why the best time to visit Kununurra is during the Australian winter and Top End Dry Season, from about April to October.  But be warned … that’s also the busiest time!

After a session at the cafe, work off the spectacularly fabulous icecreams, smoothies and other goodies chock-a-block with awesome Kununurra produce by climbing to the vantage point at the top of Kelly’s Knob to get your bearings AND enjoy the spectacular view over the town and mountain ranges beyond. The landscape’s surprisingly green in this part of the East Kimberley, courtesy of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.

Pssst! The real view is even better than what you can see in the photo above!

Why the excellent Anzac Hill Lookout we stumbled upon just out of town heading west, and giving an entirely different perspective, doesn’t appear in any of the tourist information I’ll never know … track it down for yourself and see which one you prefer!

2 Ord River Adventureland

The East Kimberley’s natural attractions can so spectacular they overshadow its hazards. And that could be fatal in Kununurra – because while the Ord Irrigation Scheme has turned this harsh landscape into a food bowl thanks to the engineering marvel of the Ord River Dam, it didn’t get rid of the crocodiles!

There are plenty of reminders of the dangers along the river banks – but don’t let that stop you fishing for barramundi (does anyone bother with any other types of fish?); having a picnic; or even taking an upstream cruise for 57 kilometres to the Lake Argyle Dam Wall.

No boat? No problem! Local cruise operators will be happy to see you on board!

But no matter how hot it gets, don’t even THINK about going swimming!

3 Lake Argyle – the Inland Sea

The arid Carr Boyd Ranges near Kununurra probably aren’t where you’d imagine an inland sea over 1000 km² to be.

If that’s what you thought, you’d be right. Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, didn’t naturally occur. It was formed when the Ord River Dam was slapped across the river’s narrowest point in an incredible feat of engineering and construction that drowned valleys, pastoral leases and a whole mountain range!

But the staggering scenery surrounding Lake Argyle is SO worth the ~70 km one way drive south-east from Kununurra back towards the WA/NT border we did it twice.  The first time was just to explore; the second for the must-do early morning cruise.

It’s also worth doing for the wildlife – over a third of Australia’s bird species can be found here at various times of the year.

Oh! And there’s also a proliferation of scenic public loos!

It’s said that the damming of the river means none of the large and deadly saltwater crocodiles live above the dam wall, although there have been sightings. But the absence of predators means there are a LOT more of the less dangerous freshwater crocodiles.

SO … if you’re crocodile-averse, don’t go in the water AND definitely don’t sign up for the annual Lake Argyle 10 or 20 km swimming races, held annually on the first Saturday in May!

4 Hunting the Wild Boab Trees

Australia’s only species of Boab tree grows almost exclusively – but plentifully – in the Kimberley. Even if you haven’t seen a Boab tree for real, its distinctive shape and silhouette appear in all the galleries – on paintings, prints, cards, carvings, photographs and jewellery. I’m still having withdrawal symptoms over the earrings that got away – how I managed to leave those brightly coloured glass squares with tiny Boab tree silhouettes in the shop remains a mystery to this day.

And now it’s too late … I can’t find them ANYWHERE on line

Luckily, wild Boab trees are easy to find around Kununurra.

But if you haven’t got time for hunting, they’re also found in captivity – at the Kununurra Celebrity Tree Park at the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon. And although I couldn’t find a celebrity tree dedicated to Red Nomad OZ amongst those for notables such as John Farnham and Princess Anne, I’m sure it’s just a matter of time!

Isn’t it?!?!  Please say yes!

5 Lily Creek Lagoon and the Sleeping Buddha

Like its giant friend Lake Argyle, Lily Creek Lagoon on the outskirts of Kununurra isn’t natural. But it’s an awesome backdrop to a rock formation that looks (supposedly) like a Sleeping Buddha from the Celebrity Tree Park; and (even more supposedly) an Elephant’s head from the Zebra Rock Gallery’s vantage point just down the road.

It’s also a wildlife hotspot.

Of course it’s a helluva lot easier to go wildlife spotting on Lily Creek Lagoon when you’re camping right on its banks at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park campground like we were. By day, watch a variety of bird-life on and around the lagoon, including Comb-crested Jacana, also called the ‘Jesus bird’, hopping around on the lily pads; and the Crimson Finches hopping around on the banks – and at our campsite.

You might even get to take part in a real life rescue!  Like we did when a bird misjudged the length of a lily pad and slid into the water.  Did I mention the lagoon is full of fresh-water crocodiles?

Sunset brings the Sleeping Buddha to life – at least as much as is possible for a reclining figure – and the Lagoon dramatically reflects the sky’s RED glow.

But the night belongs to those crocodiles … take a torch and watch the RED glow glinting from their eyes if you dare!

6 Mirima National Park

Wondering when the selfie-taking joggers completely oblivious to the 3 metre snake sunning itself at their feet would either notice it or step on it was like watching a car crash.

Was it so wrong to have my camera ready?

Luckily (or unluckily, depending on whether you were them or me), neither happened, and the joggers jogged off into the sunrise to post what could have been a REALLY exciting update (read about that adventure HERE).

I waited for the snake to move so I could admire the view over Mirima National park from the top of the range vantage point on the Lookout Walk (no prizes for guessing why it’s called that!), one of four shortish walks showcasing the park’s attractions.

I can’t guarantee the excitement of a sunrise snake stand-off in the sandstone at Mirima, on the outskirts of the main Kununurra township. But you WILL see dramatic sandstone domes and valleys – smaller, but not unlike those of more well known Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles). So if you don’t have time to trek there, or the bucks for a helicopter flight, Mirima National Park is a cheaper, closer, and more charming alternative.

The top of the range view also overlooks Hidden Valley – and the Hidden Valley Tourist Park who I mention here because they were nice enough to put RedzAustralia at the very top of their TOP 10 Grey Nomad blogs (even thought I’m a RED Nomad)!

7 Ngamoowalem Conservation Park

En route to discover the Kununurra waterfalls, by the time we’d managed two of the conservation park’s four sites we’d already experienced a grumpy grey-nomad who should have stayed in bed; and a flamboyant four-wheel-driver developing some experimental techniques in what can only loosely be called ‘driving’ (read about that adventure HERE).

Who knows what other weird experiences we might have had if only our car had had enough clearance to visit the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park’s 3^rd and 4^th localities?

The spectacular setting amid the Livistonia Range means the springs and falls that make up the park run hot during the wet season. There wasn’t much water happening during our dry season visit – but that meant we could explore the rocks up close and admire the cluster of butterflies flitting through the undergrowth.

And wonder why Black Rock Falls was called Black Rock Falls!

It’s a shame we didn’t get to see Middle Spring and Molly Spring, but no matter.

The other visitors to Valentine Spring and Black Rock Falls had provided quite enough excitement for one day.

Besides – don’t they say you should always leave something for next time?

8 Killer Kununurra Producers!

There’s not a lot of point visiting the Ord River Irrigation zone without actually sampling the produce, right?

So we gave it our best shot.

A daily dose of something with mango in it – smoothies, cheesecakes, ice-cream, we weren’t fussy – from somewhere local – we weren’t fussy about that, either! We didn’t even care if they sold other products!

And so we did the rounds of the Zebra Rock Gallery Café; Lovells Gallery, Hoochery Distillery, the Sandalwood Factory and a number of Open Door outlets that sold Kununurra and Ord River Irrigation Scheme fresh produce!

Hard to believe, I know, but it’s not always all about cake

9 Kununurra Agricultural Show

They say you always remember your first time. And the Kununurra Agricultural Show was where I lost it.

My Cane Toad Race virginity, that is! (Read that awesome story HERE!)

The Cane Toad Race fund-raiser for Kununurra Wildlife Rescue topped the bill of weird and wonderful events celebrating rural life – with audience participation encouraged.

If you’ve never seen the Melon Olympics, where participants skate in watermelon shoes to throw honeydews into 44 gallon drums; a lawnmower race; the Kimberley Cowboy Challenge – a farmer’s daily life event multi-tasking race; and the Haystacking Challenge where a hapless volunteer perches atop an ever-growing stack of hay bales just before it topples then this is the place to be.

All accompanied by even more of that killer Kununurra produce!! Frozen chocolate-covered banana, anyone?

Experience all the fabulous fun for yourself at the Kununurra Agricultural Show on Friday 10^th & Saturday 11^th July, 2020!!  It’s the most fun you’ll have for $AUD20 (the 2020 cost of an adult admission).

10  Wyndham Rivers and Tides

It’s just over 100 km from Kununurra to Wyndham on the sealed main road, but the back route past Parry’s Lagoon takes you through stunning East Kimberley scenery (and more of those Boab Trees).  Stop at the lagoon for a wildlife extravaganza then continue to the small town of Wyndham with some of the highest tides in Australia, and the fantastic Five Rivers Lookout overlooking an incredible landscape.  Read more about things to do in Wyndham HERE.

11 Crocodile Spotting

Finding a crocodile in the East Kimberley is what’s generally known as a ‘sure thing’.  So take care when you find freshwater (the small ones) and/or saltwater crocodiles (the BIG scary ones) in Lake Argyle, both above and below the dam wall; in the Ord river; in any/all of Wyndham’s five rivers; in Parry’s Lagoon and right next to your campsite in Lily Lagoon.   Want more places to find crocodiles in Australia’s Top End?  Go HERE!

12 Sunset – Kimberley Style!

When you’ve enjoyed yourself to the max in the East Kimberley, max out a little bit more on a Kununurra Kimberley sunset. Sunset from pretty much anywhere will do, but our campsite by the lake gets my vote!

With nothing but the gentle hum of mosquitoes, plopping of crocodiles and chatter (and sometimes snoring!) of the Southern Grey Nomad to disturb you!

Staying in Kununurra (where 26º C is a COLD day) for any length of time puts the careless visitor in serious danger of having a food baby.  So it was just as well for us we left, albeit reluctantly, after 10 days!

The good news is that once you’ve seen the sights of Kununurra, there’s the rest of the awesome Kimberley Region to explore (Read my 7 Kimberley Random Adventures  HERE)!

Having trouble getting there?  Check out the best flights and get your Kununurra adventure off the ground NOW!

Want MORE?

• All about Kununurra
• Kimberley Region Travel Guide
• Red’s Kimberley Adventures
• MORE Kununurra Photos on Flickr
• MORE Kimberley Photos on Flickr

The post COOL Things to Do in Kununurra, Western Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I was WAY too young to remember much detail from my first Aussie road trip.

I’m a road-tripper from WAY back!

But the photo of me and my sister on the Mt Kosciuszko summit in the good old days when you could actually drive almost to the top of the highest point in OZ is a dead giveaway.

That trail-blazing family adventure holiday was the first of many Aussie Adventures on many thousands of kilometres on roads covering much of Australia I’ve had since then.

SO … that gives me some serious road-tripper cred, right? RIGHT???

Well, not quite.

Because although I’ve been on lots of different variations of the great Aussie road-trip, there’s one version missing from my repertoire. That’s the great Aussie sea-trek – and it’s all about cruising in Australia.

What makes a good road trip?

Australia’s vast distances make turning your holiday into an Aussie Adventure easy.  It’s absolutely the best way to a) see a LOT of Australia up close; b) see a LOT of your travelling companion/s up close; c) see a range of attractions from the ridiculous to the sublime as you trek from A to B; and d) make unforgettable memories – all in one (sometimes life-changing) (and mostly BIG fun) journey.

IMHO.

Changing the top three trip variables – Transport, Accommodation, Budget – will majorly determine the type of journey you have. The secondary trip variables – Distance, Stopovers, Travelling Companions – will determine just how life-changing and fun it really is!

Of course I don’t know how far you want to travel, how many stopovers you’ll take, and with whom you’ll choose to travel – that’s all up to you. But take a quick squiz at this snapshot of five Aussie Adventure trip variations – all with different choices of transport, accommodation and budget.

Yep, they’re all several kinds of fun, but only YOU will be able to tell which would be the MOST fun for you and your travelling companions.

#1 – The Relationship-Tester

Self-drive, take your own accommodation – tent, camper, caravan – and save money by staying in no- or low-budget camp-grounds for a ‘no frills’ Aussie Odyssey. Long days on the road, then setting up camp with limited facilities and planning meals each night means you and your fellow travellers will be together 24/7.

Lower costs make this option good for a longer trip, or even a Big Lap (right around OZ, geddit?) but it won’t take much to turn ‘Relationship-tester’ into ‘Relationship-breaker’ if your travel buddies aren’t as committed to pitching in and helping out as you are!

#2 – The Cop-Out

Self-drive, but when you’re done driving for the day, stay in a motel, cabin, cottage, B&B, farmstay, guesthouse – or go glamping! Staying in smaller towns will help keep costs down AND you can contribute to the local economy by eating out at the local pub, cafe or bakery. Or all three. You’re still spending 24/7 with your travel companions, but there’s not so much post-driving work to be done at the end of each day.

Try this option for trips with more accommodation choices in towns along the way such as Victoria’s Great Ocean Road, especially if you don’t like booking ahead.

Actually, this one’s only called the ‘Cop Out’ by people who’ve survived #1. That’s because they want YOU to suffer by roughing it as much as they did.

#3 – The Half-and-Half

Yep, this is exactly what it sounds like. Fly/train/bus there, then hire a car and drive back. Or vice versa. You can even use your own car if you drive across the Nullarbor then put it (and yourself!) on the Indian Pacific to get back home. Or fly to Darwin, hire a car and drive home.

This one’s best if time is limited, because although it’s more expensive, you can fit a LOT more sightseeing into your adventure because you’ve got a LOT more time on the road!

This option is also sometimes called the ‘Cop Out’ by people who’ve survived #1 or #2.

#4 – The Outsource

When your own vehicle isn’t up to the road standard of your proposed adventure route, there’s no shame in saving it (and costly repairs) by outsourcing the transport and booking an all-inclusive tour in a suitable or sometimes purpose-built vehicle. This one’s best for treks like the Gibb River Road – 600 km of tyre-shredding rocky road surfaces, rugged river crossings and endless bull dust – impassable in a standard car.

It’ll cost more, but you won’t have to do any planning as meals and accommodation are provided. Sure, you can’t choose your travelling companions, but you won’t be with them 24/7 unless you’re sleeping in a dormitory!

This option is also known as a ‘Major Cop Out’ by people who’ve survived #1, #2 or #3.

#5 – The Sea-Trek

Switch your transport from car to ship, your tent for a stateroom and the dodgy highway for the sea when your Aussie Adventure is an Australian cruise.

You’ll still travel thousands of kilometres and have sightseeing stopovers in interesting places along the way.

BUT …

your transport is an all-purpose eating, entertainment and exercise area, purpose built for recreation while you’re on the road at sea!

If, like me, you know very little about cruising, take a look at Celebrity Cruises 13 day/12 night Great Barrier Reef Cruise from Sydney to Cairns and return as an example of what to expect.

With stopovers in Newcastle, Airlie Beach, Cairns, Port Douglas, Willis Island and Brisbane, the cruise covers a good cross-section of the east coast and offers a range of shore excursions.

What’s the Difference?

In comparison, spend the same 13 days driving the 2400 km (1500 miles) each way from Sydney to Cairns, and at 400-500 km per day you’d spend 9-10 of those days in the car.

Afraid you’ll max out the budget?

Compare the total costs for fuel, accommodation, food, entertainment, vehicle wear and tear and sightseeing you’d have on a 12-night road trip with the one-off up-front cruise cost covering everything (except on-shore excursions) and you’ll find the gap isn’t as large as you think.

There’s only one way to find out if the Sea-Trek really IS the new road trip – so next time you’re aboard, look out. That redhead languishing in the lounge, champagne cocktail in hand, just might be me!

Disclosure: This post was prepared in partnership with Celebrity Cruises and contains a sponsored link. All cruise photos are courtesy of Celebrity Cruises.

The post Road Trips, Sea Treks and your next Aussie Adventure! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The serrated peaks of the Flinders Ranges zig-zag dramatically across the skyline – the unmistakeable silhouette of a 430 km (265 miles) line of mountain ranges that jumps from a standing start right out of the vast outback plain. Blindfold me and drop me in the middle of it and I’ll know EXACTLY where I am.

Praise be I’m in South Australia, so I’ve pretty much got that killer landscape all to myself!

St Mary’s Peak, 1171 metres (3842 ft) above sea level and highest point, is pretty low by world standards. But from the plains below, it soars to the apex of a 17 km (10.5 mile) stretch of jagged pinnacles forming the outer rim of Wilpena Pound, best known attraction in the Flinders Ranges.

Cars on the road below, dwarfed by these ancient landforms eroded over millenia to a fraction of their original size, will rust into oblivion before these timeless ranges turn to dust.

Yes, channelling my inner philosopher while travelling the folds and faults of the Adelaide Geosyncline forming these ranges is WAY too easy!

It’s also WAY too easy to admire the staggering scenery, especially because there’s no amazing view that can’t be enhanced by an awesome scenic loo! IMHO. But even if you’re not an amenities admirer or dunny detective like me, it’s got enough mountains, gorges, historic sites, wildflowers, rock formations, lookouts, 4WD tracks and wildlife to keep you busy.

VERY busy.

SO … if you HAVEN’T been here, you’ll be wondering where to start, right?

DON’T PANIC! All you need to do is keep reading!

This 7 Day Flinders Ranges itinerary is mostly based in the Central Flinders Ranges, and Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

That’s because I’m being gentle with you – after all, it’s your first time!

There are LOTS of Southern, Northern and Central Flinders Ranges things to do, but you can’t do everything in 7 days, right? So I’ve made it it easy for you with a week’s worth of some of my favourite activities and attractions in three great Flinders Ranges destinations.

You can thank me later.

Ready? GO!

HOW to get there:

Get started by driving to Quorn, 335 km (208 miles) north of Adelaide in the Southern Flinders Ranges. Pick whichever self-drive route from Adelaide which appeals to you the most.

• Route 1 – Food and Wine trail via Clare: drive 143 km (89 miles) to Clare (detour via the Barossa Valley on the way if you like), then 193 km (120 miles) to Quorn via Laura, Wirrabara and Wilmington.
• Route 2 – Country South Australia: drive 216 km (134 miles) to Jamestown via Clare, then 148 km (92 miles) to Quorn via Orroroo and Wilmington (detour into Alligator Gorge near Wilmington if you like). Yes, this way is a bit longer.
• Route 3 – Coastal Ports (tautology alert!) via Port Augusta: drive 306 km (190 miles) to Port Augusta via Port Wakefield, Port Pirie and Port Germein (add a few extra km for detours into the ports), then 41 km (25.5 miles)to Quorn.

Be WARNED: If you’re sightseeing along the way, getting to Quorn will take nearly a full day. To make the most of the Flinders Ranges, I suggest starting your trip a day early!

Choosing THINGS to DO:

Select from my lists of things to do in each destination. Attractions and activities are split into MUST DO – my suggested top picks; and MORE Things to DO – alternative/extra activities and attractions.

And for the most pleasurable places to do your business, look out for my *Scenic Loo alerts!

Days 1 and 2: Quorn and Southern Flinders Ranges

STAY: Quorn Caravan Park (Campground, Cabins). A range of other accommodation is available in and around Quorn including Motel, Hotel, Bed and Breakfast, Cottages and Air BnB

MUST DO in Quorn:

• Pichi Richi Railway – Half-day Steam Train tours leave from Quorn every weekend, so plan your trip accordingly and book ahead
• Dutchman’s Stern – Hike the 10.5 km (6.5 mile) loop to the Dutchman’s Stern summit for spectacular views over the ranges and Gulf and fantastic Southern Flinders scenery
• Buckaringa Gorge – Drive the ~80 km (50 miles) loop (some dirt roads) through classic Southern Flinders Ranges country and historic sites of interest to Buckaringa Gorge and Lookout

MORE Things to DO in Quorn:

• HIKES: Devils Peak (1.3 km return); Warren Gorge (5.2 km loop – *Scenic Loo alert!); Mt Brown Summit Hike (15 km loop); Mt Brown Hike (11.6 km)
• DRIVES: Alligator Gorge (via Wilmington – 55 km one way); Quorn/Port Augusta/Wilmington Loop (125 km loop, sealed roads)
• QUORN: Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre; Heritage Walk (4.7 km); Quorn Native Flora Reserve (2 short walks); Cafés

MORE about the Quorn Region:

• Pichi Richi Railway
• Dutchman’s Stern Climb
• Quorn, South Australia

Days 3, 4, 5 – Wilpena Pound and Flinders Ranges National Park

On Day 3 drive 67 km (41.5 miles) to Hawker.

MUST DO en route to Hawker/Wilpena Pound:

• Kanyaka Homestead and Death Rock – stop at these historic sites en route from Quorn to Hawker for insights into local colonial and indigenous heritage.
• Wilpena Panorama – View this amazing 360º painting at Hawker’s Jeff Morgan Gallery of the summit view from Flinders Ranges highest point St Marys Peak (see trail notes below)

From Hawker, drive 52 km (32 miles) to Wilpena Pound.

STAY: Rawnsley Park Station (Campground,Cabins, Units, Eco-Villas); or Wilpena Pound Resort (Campground, Standard and Deluxe Rooms, Safari Tents). Other options including Station Stays and campgrounds in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park are also available in the area.

MUST DO at Wilpena Pound:

• St Mary’s Peak – This strenuous hike (14.6 – 21.5 km (9-13.5 miles) depending on route taken) is a Flinders Ranges showpiece. But if you viewed the panorama in Hawker (see above), you already what’s to be seen from the summit! (ps I haven’t done this hike either).
• Wilkawillina Gorge – Drive the 34 km (mostly dirt) past the Bunkers. The gorge hike is 11.4 km (7 miles) one way – even if you don’t do the whole walk, the scenery is spectacular.

• Brachina Gorge – drive about 50 km (31 miles, mostly dirt) via the Bunyeroo Valley and Gorge then along Brachina Gorge’s Geological Time Tunnel with interpretive signs and lookouts, walks and classic outback scenery. Return the same way, or via the ABC range and main road. (*Scenic Loo alert!)
• Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – 10 and 13 km (6.2 and 8 miles) from Wilpena Pound. Visit them en route to Wilkawillina or Blinman.
• Bridle Gap – Part of the Heysen Trail, this 18.8 km return hike crosses the Pound and offers great views from the Bumbinyunna Range on the other side. Much of the hike is flat and easy going and is an alternative to the much more difficult St Mary’s Peak trail.

MORE Things to DO at Wilpena Pound:

This is just a sampler of alternative activities – ask for more details at your accommodation.

• HIKES: Hills Homestead (6.6 km); Wangara Lookout (7.8 km – incl Hills Homestead); Ferntree Falls (5.2 km); Pines Cave (5.4); Rawnsley Bluff (12.6 km)
• HERITAGE: Old Wilpena Station, Sacred Canyon
• DRIVE: Arkapena Track for Scenery and Lookouts, Moralana Scenic Drive
• RIDE: Scenic Flights; Willow Springs Skytrek 4WD (self-drive and escorted tours); Mountain Biking on Mawson Trail

MORE from the Central Flinders Ranges:

• Kanyaka Historic Site
• St Marys Peak
• Wilkawillina Gorge Hike
• Bridle Gap Hike
• Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges

Days 6 and 7 – Blinman and Angorichina

On Day 6 drive 59 km (36.5 miles) north to Blinman.

MUST DO en route to Blinman:

• Hucks and Stokes Hill Lookouts – stop if you haven’t already seen these (see above)
• Perawurtina Cultural Heritage Site – Adnyamathanha rock paintings and engravings
• Mt Emily and the Great Wall of China – Interesting rocky outcrops, and yet another Great Wall – this one Flinders Ranges Style!

MUST DO at Blinman:

• Blinman Underground Experience – the Blinman Mines Tour comes with a Sound & Light show, expert local commentary and a fascinating dose of the area’s mining and social history

Drive 14 km (8.7 miles) from Blinman to Angorichina Village.

STAY: Angorichina Tourist Village (Campground, Cabins and *Scenic Loo alert!). Alternatively, there’s a range of accommodation in Blinman including Hotel, Cottages, Station Stays

MUST DO at Angorichina:

• Blinman Pools Hike – Follow Parachilna and Blinman Creeks through sheer cliff faces, gorges and rocky creek beds for 10 km (return) to 1^st pool, then 1 km (return) to 2^nd pool.
• Glass Gorge – A 43 km loop via Blinman through the picturesque Glass Gorge
• Nuccaleena Historic Mine Site – add another 34 km onto the Glass Gorge loop and visit this remote mine. This leg is 4WD on rough, rugged roads and station tracks.

MORE Things to DO at Angorichina:

• HIKE: Heysen Trail – this 1200 km (745 mile) hike starts in Parachilna Gorge. You won’t have time to walk the whole trail (!), but take a 6 km return hike into the Gorge along the track to experience this part of the ranges
• RIDE: Mountain Biking, 4WD tours
• BLINMAN: Blinman Walking Trail (3.5 km); Cafes and Gallery, Mine Office

MORE about Blinman and Angorichina

• Things to do in Angorichina and Blinman
• Heysen Trail

More Adventures

So … now your 7 days are up and it’s time to go. But the adventure isn’t over yet.

Return to Adelaide by driving 18 km through Parachilna Gorge to Parachilna (*Scenic Loo alert!)for a Feral Mixed Grill and a Fargher Lager!

A great end to a great week.

But the good news is that if you’re not yet ready to end your holiday, you can check out the things to do in Port Augusta on your way back!!

Flinders Ranges Fast Facts:

• WHAT: The Flinders Ranges is a 430 km long region of mountain ranges in the South Australian Outback. It includes the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park; Vulkathanha-Gammon Ranges National Park, Mt Remarkable National Park, several Conservation Parks, many natural attractions and numerous sites of historic and cultural significance.
• WHERE: The Flinders Ranges are north of Adelaide. From Adelaide, it’s 335 km (208 miles) to Quorn, 400 km (248 miles) to Hawker and 508 km (315 miles) to Blinman.
• WHEN: The best time to go is from April to October. Temperatures in the hotter months of November to March can range from 30º – 45º C (86-113 F)
• DRIVING: Self-drive is the easiest way to get around. PLEASE NOTE: some of the roads and trails described in this post require 4WD or high clearance. Please check road conditions and vehicle suitability before you drive.
• FACILITIES:  Meals, groceries and other supplies are available in smaller centres such as Wilpena Pound Resort, Rawnsley Park Station, Blinman and Angorichina Tourist Village. Fuel is available at Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena Pound, Angorichina Tourist Village and Parachilna.

Want MORE?

• Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre 

The post 7 Days in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia – A Beginners Guide appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I’m SO not a hard-core hiker for lots of reasons. Wrong temperament. Wrong size. Wrong fitness level. And my holidays are NEVER just about the hike. Or hikes.

But although I’m the world’s slowest hiker, I like my holidays served up with a bit of hiking on the side. So my holiday destinations have to give me a hiking workout without feeling wrecked at the other end AND some different activities for when I’m over the hiking.

So my Top Ten half day hikes come packaged with their very own holiday destination. Hike to your heart’s content – but when you’re done, you’ll find plenty of different things to do.

PS Half day hikes often take me longer – so being the world’s slowest hiker will probably explain why you’re more likely to trek these trails faster than me!

1.  Kims Lookout Circuit, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

• Where is it: Lord Howe Island is 600 km east of Sydney.
• How to get there: Flights leave from Sydney and Port Macquarie.
• When to go: Any time; September to June are most popular; July and August can be cold.
• The Hike: 7 km Loop Trail; Moderate to Difficult

Going places on Lord Howe Island generally means walking or cycling – so depending on where you’re staying, just getting to the trailhead near Ned’s Beachwill add some extra mileage (why isn’t ‘kilometerage’ a word?) to the distance.

Start climbing Malabar Hill straight away and soon you’ll have sweeping views down to Neds Beach on one side and Old Settlement and northern part of the island on the other. A little higher and you’ll see Mounts Gower and Lidgbird, Balls Pyramid, highest volcanic rock stack in the world, and the Admiralty Islands. That’s if you can bear to look over the sheer cliffs plunging down, STRAIGHT down into the ocean.

The track continues along the cliff tops (don’t look down!) to Kims Lookout with magnificent views over most of the island. Then it’s just a matter of heading down to the Max Nicholls track and back via Old Settlement Beach. Luckily, you’ll pass a cafe on the way!

Want MORE?

• While you’re on Lord Howe Island: Highlights include Cruises around the Island, to the Reef, North Bay and Balls Pyramid; Hiking, Water Sports, Birding, Historic Museum. MORE about Lord Howe Island

2.  Bararranna Gorge, Arkaroola, South Australia

• Where is it: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, 730 km north of Adelaide, Outback South Australia.
• How to get there: Self-Drive on fully sealed roads to Copley, 600 km north of Adelaide. Arkaroola is 130 km north-east of Copley on an all weather dirt road.
• When to go:  Anytime, but please note temperatures from November to March can be well above 30° C.  Contact Arkaroola if planning to travel during this time to avoid closures.
• The Hike: Bararranna Gorge Loop Trail, 6.8 km, Moderate

Actually, the hike can be a bit more than 6.8 km.

How much?

How far up the dramatic Bararranna Gorge you can get depends how much water is in Bararranna Waterhole.

Detour from the main trail to explore the gorge – an added extra to an already varied walk through a remote outback landscape scattered with waterholes, intriguing geological features (aka ‘rocks’) and wildlife.

Time passes quickly when you’re rock-hopping, admiring the dramatic cliffs, fossil-hunting and resting stopping for (endless) photos. Hunger and fatigue finally drove us back to the main track, where we finished the loop.

Only to find we’d doubled the suggested 3 hour walk time. But hey! We ARE the world’s slowest hikers!

Want MORE?

• While you’re at Arkaroola: Highlights include the signature Ridge-top Tour, Hikes, 4WD Tracks.  MORE Things to Do at Arkaroola HERE
• While you’re in the Area: Explore the northern SA Outback and Flinders Ranges. Things to Do at Copley HERE

3.  Dales Gorge Circuit, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

• Where is it: Karijini is 75 km East of closest town Tom Price; 1422 km north-east of Perth and 962 km south-west of Broome.
• How to get there: Self Drive. Bitumen roads all the way on main routes; dirt roads throughout the Park.
• When to go:  During dry season cooler months May to August; May and June are best
• The Hike: Dales Gorge Loop combines all walks from Dales campground; ~4.5 km, moderate – Class 3 and 4, some steep sections with ladders

Could a track possibly lead safely down the sheer cliffs under the Three Ways Lookout to Circular Pool – 100 metres below? Of course! The REALLY steep bits have ladders! But the first part is the worst part as the track follows the winding river through groves of trees with steep RED rocky walls towering above. Actually, make that BEYOND red.

The river cascades down across treacherously slippery rock shelves as the trail winds steadily uphill towards Fortescue Falls.  Then it’s up even further to popular swimming hole, the Fern Pool. Take a break there, because it’s a steep climb out of the gorge and another 2 km back along the Gorge Rim trail to the Lookout trail head.

Just as well this remarkably scenic walk gives weary walkers plenty of reasons to stop – photos, bird watching, admiring the view – that don’t sound like ‘resting’!

Want MORE?

• MORE about the Dales Gorge Walk
• While you’re at Karijini: Highlights include Hancock Gorge, Oxer and Knox Lookouts, Joffre Falls. MORE Things to do at Karijini HERE
• While you’re in the Area: Explore more of the Pilbara at Tom Price. MORE about Tom Price HERE

4.  Nelly Bay to Arcadia, Magnetic Island, Far North Queensland

• Where is it: Magnetic Island is 8 km and a 20 minute ferry ride east of Townsville. The hike starts near the ferry terminal at Nelly Bay.
• How to get there: Townsville is 1336 km north-west of Brisbane, and 347 km south-east of Cairns on fully sealed roads.
• When to go: Anytime, but the wet season between November and April can be hot and humid.  Most popular time is during the Australian winter months June to August.
• The Hike: Nelly Bay to Arcadia, 6 km + 2-3 km extra to walk from Arcadia back to Nelly Bay (local bus available), moderate

Experience life on a tropical island! AND see killer scenery from several vantage points overlooking island scenic hot spots and the mainland as the trail heads upwards through thick rainforest. It probably wouldn’t be anywhere near as tough a climb without the ever-present tropical humidity, but who cares with wildlife like Koalas and Black cockatoos on the trail?

After a detour to the Sphinx lookout, the walk ends at Arcadia aka Magnetic Island ‘suburbia’. Unless you extend the hike by taking the Junction Track to the Forts, Arthur Bay, and even Horseshoe Bay if you’ve still got the energy! Walk back to Nelly Bay – or take the regular bus service!

Want MORE?

• MORE about the Nelly Bay to Arcadia Hike
• While you’re on Magnetic Island: Highlights include Beaches, Water sports, Hikes, Guided Walks, Wildlife. MORE things to do on Magnetic Island
• While you’re in Townsville: Highlights include National Parks and Reserves, Great Barrier Reef, Castle Hill, Northern Beaches, Tropical Islands. MORE things to do in Townsville

5.  Jarnem Loop, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

• Where: The Park is 3 km east of the WA/NT border; 203 km west of Timber Creek; 68 km east of Kununurra
• How to get there: Self Drive on fully sealed roads from Timber Creek or Kununurra. Dirt roads throughout the park.
• When to go:  Cooler months from May to August.  Seasonal closures due to flooding from November to April
• The Hike: Jarnem Loop Trail, 7 km, Moderate

The weirdly striped sandstone domes lining the Jarnem Loop trail and filling much of the landscape beyond are often described as a ‘Lite’ version of the more well known Bungle Bungles. But whether or not that’s true, the view from the fantastic 360° lookout over ranges and plains is anything but Lite!

The trail winds back down to a palm-lined valley getting much closer to the wind-scoured layers and shapes of the rounded domes. Along the creek line are caverns with Aboriginal rock art, then the trail returns to the picnic area.  And although it was peak tourist season, we had it all to ourselves!

Want MORE?

• While you’re in the Park: Highlights include Walks, Aboriginal Rock Art, Bird and Wildlife Watching. More about Keep River National Park HERE
• While you’re in the Area: Explore the Top End. Highlights include Victoria River Crocodile Cruise, Lake Argyle Cruise, Gregory and Mirima National Parks, Historic Sites, Fishing. MORE about Timber Creek HERE. MORE about Kununurra HERE.

6.  Mt Abrupt, Grampians, Victoria

• Where: Mt Abrupt is in the Southern Grampians near Dunkeld, 280 km west of Melbourne
• Getting there: Self-Drive to Gariwerd (Grampians National Park) and the Grampians Region on fully sealed roads. Dunkeld is 64 km south of the more central Halls Gap.
• When to go:  Anytime. Spring (Sept – Nov) best for wildflowers.
• The Hike: 6.5 km return, Moderate to Difficult.

It’s got one of the most spectacular views of the wilder parts of the Grampians, but the view of Mt Abrupt’s forbidding sheer cliffs from Dunkeld make it look a LOT more difficult to climb than it really is. The trailhead starts just north of Dunkeld and climbs steadily through the bushland. After passing Signal Peak, the views unfold all the way to the summit over the Victoria Range and Valley, Serra Range, Southern plains and Dunkeld.

Returning via the same route means a chance to catch up on the photos you were too knackered to take on the way up!

Want MORE?

• MORE about the Mt Abrupt Hike
• While you’re in the Grampians: Highlights include Hikes, Rock Climbing, Scenic Drives, Fishing, Lookouts, Lakes, Seasonal Wildflowers, Wildlife, Historic Sites. MORE things to do in the Grampians HERE

7.  Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland

• Where is it: 220 km (136 miles) north-west of the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, between Cloncurry and Normanton;
• How to get there: Self-Drive. Take National Route 83 from Cloncurry. At the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, take State Route 84 – the Wills Development Road – to Gregory Downs. Boodjamulla is 100 km from Gregory Downs on a dirt road.
• When to go:  Dry season from May to October.  Roads can be impassable during the wet.
• The Hike: Several Hikes from 2-7 km, varying degrees of difficulty. The combined hike suggestion below is about 8 km, moderate to difficult.

It takes more than one walk to do Lawn Hill justice and discover everything this stunning blend of towering red cliffs, crystal clear water, palms, bushland, crocodiles, spa-like cascades, lookouts, giant carp and magnificent vistas has to offer. Chances are it’ll be HOT whatever time of year you’re there – and if you’ve come all this way you’d be mad to leave without seeing it all. So combine some of the shorter walks into a longer hike – or avoid heatstroke, stay a few days and do them one by one!

That way you’ll have time for the other activities!

But for the full experience in just one day, start early and take the Middle Gorge track to Duwadarri and Indarri Lookouts. Return the same way, or take the loop down the cliffs and back to the campground. Then do the Island Stack loop, and finish up by taking the Cascades detour – may as well have a natural spa before returning to the campground.

And don’t say I didn’t tell you to stay an extra day!

Want MORE?

• While you’re in Lawn Hill: Highlights include Swimming, Canoeing, Hiking, Wildlife. MORE about Lawn Hill National Park

8.  Mt Kosciuszko Summit, via Jindabyne, New South Wales

• Where is it: The Mt Kosciuszko summit can be reached either from Thredbo, 212 km south-west of Canberra; or Jindabyne, about 34 km from Thredbo.
• Getting There: A number of routes access Thredbo, Jindabyne and the Kosciuszko National Park. The best route will depend from which direction you’re heading.
• When to go:  Anytime, but the track is generally snowbound from June to October – you can reach the summit on cross-country skis or snowshoes, but the track had no snow poles.
• The Hike: 13 km return, Class 3 Moderate (from Thredbo); or alternatively18.6 km return, Class 3 Moderate (from Charlotte Pass).

En route from Thredbo to Mt Kosciuszko’s summit (Australia’s highest mountain), you’ll see Charlotte Pass (Australia’s highest permanent settlement) where Australia’s lowest temperature (-23° C) was recorded, Australia’s highest lake (Lake Cootapatamba) and Australia’s highest Public Loo (Rawsons Pass).

A long ride up the Kosciuszko Express chair lift from Thredbo quickly knocks off 600 metres of altitude.  Then it’s a 6.5 km undulating walk to the summit on a specially constructed raised walkway protecting the fragile alpine vegetation beneath. Congratulations! You’ve climbed a Seven Summits peak!!

Hard to believe that back in the good old days you could drive nearly to the top – so the trickiest part of your climb will be to convince everyone how difficult it was!

Want MORE?

• MORE about the Mt Kosciuszko Summit Hike (via Thredbo)
• While you’re in the Park: Explore the Park’s seven different areas. More things to do in Kosciuszko National Park 
• While you’re in the Alps: Australian Alps Highlights

9.  Ormiston Gorge and Pound, Central Australia, Northern Territory

• Where is it: Ormiston Gorge is in the West MacDonnell Ranges National Park, 135 km west of Alice Springs.
• How to get there: Self-Drive on fully sealed roads from Alice Springs.
• When to go:  Anytime, but April to October is best for hiking.
• The Hike: Ormiston Gorge and Pound Loop, 7 km, Moderate

Every kilometre the scenery changed. A steep gorge gave way to a hillside dotted with wildflowers and stunning views of Mount Sonder before descending into a spinfex-strewn valley leading up onto a scree-strewn saddle to a lookout over the Pound, ringed with rugged ranges. Down into the pound, across two creeks, then rock-hopping the gorge, red walls towering above us.

At the end of the gorge – only a kilometre to go – recent rain meant the final creek was running higher than usual. Sadly, I hadn’t yet mastered the art of levitation, so I chose to wade through the frigid water – a kilometre in wet underwear WAY better than a 6 km back-track! If you get lucky and don’t need to choose, I say you’ll be missing a super-COOL experience!

Want MORE?

• MORE about the Ormiston Gorge and Pound Walk
• While you’re in Ormiston Gorge: Highlights include Glen Helen Gorge, Larapinta Hiking Trail, Ochre Pits, Gorges and Waterholes. MORE Things to Do in Ormiston Gorge
• While you’re in the Area: Explore the area around Alice Springs. MORE Things to do in Central Australia

10.  Deep Creek Cove, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

• Where is it: Deep Creek Conservation Park is on the Fleurieu Peninsula, 108 km south of Adelaide
• How to get there: Self Drive along Main South Road from Adelaide, about 1.5 hours.
• When to go:  March – May and September – November.  Summer (Dec – Feb) is dry and hot with temperatures from 30-35.  Winter (Jun – Aug) is wet, so tracks can be slippery.
• The Hike: Deep Creek Cove from Trig Picnic Area, 6.4 km return, Moderate

Deep Creek Cove is accessible from two points: a moderate, but longer hike from Trig Picnic Area, and a shorter, more difficult hike from Tappanappa Lookout. But for us, two attempts = two FAILS and I’ve NEVER reached the Cove!

On our first attempt (via Trig) I was off work after an eye operation so we’d decided to explore. That was wrong. VERY wrong. And you’ll be glad to know I was punished for breaking the sick leave rule by actual illness when my eye turned to the dark side and I couldn’t finish the hike. My bad.

‘Where are those explosions coming from?,’ I wondered aloud to Pilchard on our 2nd attempt from Tappanappa as we started down the hill. ‘I didn’t know there was a quarry in the area’. Turns out there wasn’t and the explosions we heard were actually thunderclaps heading our way. So we abandoned the hike, scuttled back to the car and leftf the park before the rains hit the dirt roads.

The Deep Creek Cove hikes and several others (including the Deep Creek waterfall hike which I actually HAVE done), combine to make up the 10.9 (and much more difficult) Deep Creek Circuit. And at this rate it’ll only take me another 10 years to finish it all.

In the meantime, if YOU get to Deep Creek Cove before I do, let me know what it’s like!

Want MORE?

• While you’re in the Park: Highlights include 15 Hiking Trails, Blowhole Beach, Lookouts, Wildlife, Camping. MORE Things to Do at Deep Creek Conservation Park HERE 
• While you’re in the Area: Explore the Fleurieu Peninsula. Highlights include the Cockle Train, Coorong Cruise, Beaches. MORE Things to do on the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE

There are lots more hikes in Australia and I know I’ve probably missed some good ones.  What’s YOUR favourite half day hike holiday hot spot?

Like it? SHARE it!  

The post 10 TOP Half Day Hikes in 10 HOT Australian Holiday Spots appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The Dutchman’s Stern Hike

‘Visit the Crazy Horse – but not on Monday’ the log book entry read.

Why, with the magnificent 360° panorama from the summit of the Dutchman’s Stern hike surrounding them, would two German hikers be reminded of an Adelaide nightclub 300 kilometres away? (Note to self – what IS the Monday deal at the Crazy Horse, anyway??)

Good question.

Did they have ANYTHING in common?

Surprisingly, YES.

The Dutchman’s Stern has dominated its small Conservation Park only marginally longer than the Crazy Horse has dominated the west end of Adelaide’s Hindley Street.

And that’s the only connection I can find between the two!!

When I first climbed the Dutchman’s Stern in 2010, reading the summit log book was almost worth the effort of completing the 10.5 km circuit. A pot-pourri of names, dates, weather reports, wildlife sightings, and surprisingly high number of countries of origin was supplemented by a range of comments both comical and asinine.  I’ll let you decide into which category the one above falls!

But disappointingly, 7 years later on my 2nd ascent, the log book comments had lost that edgy zing. You know, the one that made you wonder what a hiker was thinking to record the exact time it’d taken to reach the summit.  I mean, I could just write in a random time too, right?

In fact, the log book made for such dull reading, I was forced to admire the view instead.  The endless panorama of rolling mountains, rocks and totally deadly-looking roads was a LOT more gripping than the log book.  And it’s not every day you see a couple of Wedge-tailed Eagles somersaulting through the air at eye level.  Photos?  Sorry, no.  Too busy watching. You’ll just have to make the climb and see them for yourself!

But even back in 2010 a log book full of intriguing oddities wasn’t enough to detract from the jaw-dropping view.  It’s almost a complete 360º.  From the west, there’s Port Augusta and the top of Spencer Gulf; Devil’s Peak, Mt Brown and the Richman Valley further south; Quorn (nearest town) and Wilpena Pound, the Elder and Yappala Ranges to the north.

Apparently, both times we attempted the Dutchman’s Stern Hike we got lucky – according to the log book the view has been blocked by fog more than once! I would have been seriously peeved to climb steadily for 4.2 km to see NOTHING!

Especially when if you CAN see something, it’s such a spectacular, stupendous something!!

The medium-grade hike to the 820m high Dutchman’s Stern summit isn’t so much difficult as lengthy.

Unsurprisingly for a hike up a mountain, it’s a relentless 4.2 km climb to the summit.  And if I say it’s not a hard walk, you can depend upon it – I’ve got a well-documented aversion to excessive energy expenditure!

But it would’ve been too embarrassing to record the exact length of time it took to reach the summit in the log book.

So no one will EVER know how long it took us – either in 2010 or in 2017!

Let’s just say it’d take some doing to knock me off my ‘world’s slowest hiker’ pedestal!

On our first ascent, Pilchard and I meandered the ever upwardly zig-zagging trail through low grassland, purple with introduced weed Salvation Jane (Echium plantagineum) and dotted with the endemic Quorn Wattle (Acacia quornensis).

Although the 2017 climb followed the same route, it was too early for those flowers, but we got a LOT of grass trees instead.

And a LOT of kangaroos in the grasslands.

I’m not sure what’s better!

The trail then passes through Sugar Gum woodland, before reaching the spring wildflower extravaganza (still flowering in October 2010) of the heathland.

Finally, it rises through the more sparsely vegetated rocky outcrops towards the summit.

And although there weren’t quite as many wildflowers on our June 2017 climb, there WERE lots of grass trees, along with bright red Heath and a few small pink orchids.  Apart from a few landslips, the track was almost exactly as we remembered.  And it was nice to know that the passage of 7 years hadn’t slowed us down.

Much.

Even the scary bit (if walking a dodgy narrow track along a steep hillside with the ever-present danger of plunging down a gorge gives you the cold shivers like it does me) was still doable – just as well, because it’d be a long way back round the other way if I’d lost my nerve.

After climbing the 4.2 km to the summit and sighting the resident Peregrine Falcon – no sign of the eagles in 2010 – we chose the longer 10.5 km loop for our return.

Take the shorter 8.4km return route if you don’t mind retracing your steps.  The 6.3 km return route we selected passes  through Drooping Sheoak and Sugar Gum woodlands into the steep, scary, scree-lined slopes of Stony Creek gorge before returning to the trail head.

And if birding’s your thing, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren’s (subspecies pedleri) appearance ALMOST made up for the Gilbert’s Whistler absence in 2010 – but we went one better in 2017 and saw them both.

Just between us though, choosing between a summit view free of fog and a rare bird sighting is a no brainer.  I’d go for the view any day!

Just don’t tell birdo Pilchard!!

This post about the Dutchman’s Stern Hike first appeared on my blog in 2010 after our first ascent.   In 2017 we climbed it again so I’ve updated and re-posted the original to include updated information along with our most recent experience. AND new photos!

The Dutchman’s Stern Hike, just one of several walks in this former pastoral lease and also intersected by the Heysen trail, is an awesome way to experience this part of the Flinders Ranges.  It was just as good the second time around 7 years later.  Check it out!

Want MORE?

• Dutchman’s Stern Conservation Park Website
• Dutchman’s Stern Hike and Conservation Park Brochure (PDF Download)
• Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre, South Australia
• MORE RedzAustralia Hiking Adventures
• MORE Flinders Ranges Photos on Flickr HERE

The post The Dutchman’s Stern Hike! Southern Flinders Ranges, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.