Grampians Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/grampians/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 09:50:56 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Grampians Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/grampians/ 32 32 Climb Mount Abrupt! Grampians, Victoria https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/climb-mount-abrupt-grampians-victoria/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/climb-mount-abrupt-grampians-victoria/#comments Tue, 11 Nov 2014 23:33:05 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2784 NEW from RedzAustralia!

It took an awfully LOOOOOONG time to climb Mount Abrupt. It took a long time to even get there. Over 20 years of regular trips to the Grampians National Park and its amazing natural attractions had passed by before we fully explored its wilder, more remote southern end. We’d always found plenty to do from Halls Gap, in the Central[...]

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Mt Abrupt from Dunkeld Arboretum
Mt Abrupt in the Morning, from Dunkeld Arboretum

It took an awfully LOOOOOONG time to climb Mount Abrupt.

It took a long time to even get there. Over 20 years of regular trips to the Grampians National Park and its amazing natural attractions had passed by before we fully explored its wilder, more remote southern end. We’d always found plenty to do from Halls Gap, in the Central Grampians 65 km north.  The southern stronghold of Dunkeld (~280 km west of Melbourne) was just a little bit far for a day trip that included a lengthy hike.

Or so we’d kept telling ourselves.

The sheer, rocky cliffs visible from the road make Mount Abrupt look scarily unassailable – at least to a casual (read: unfit!) climber like me. But I’d always found the dramatic shapes of Mount Abrupt and Mt Sturgeon strangely fascinating. Or Mud-Dadjug and Wurgarri, if you want to get back to basics.

Mt Abrupt from Dunkeld
Mt Abrupt from Dunkeld, Victoria

But finally, we were staying at the excellent Dunkeld caravan park.  From there we could see the distinctive peaks marking the end (or is it the beginning?) of the magnificent Grampians mountain range looming over the town.

Peaks and Plains, Mt Abrupt
Peaks and Plains on Mount Abrupt Summit Hike

No excuses now!

And then there’s the length of the Mount Abrupt hike!

It’s a relentless climb (note to self: yes, this IS what mountaineering means).  It rises steeply over the 3.25 kilometres (one way) to the 827m summit, so it isn’t for the faint-hearted. Thankfully, it doesn’t take much of the 460 metre elevation before the views are worth stopping for. And if you need more ‘photo breaks’ to admire the staggering scenery, follow my lead and make the climb in spring. That way you can make it your mission to photograph each of the many wildflower varieties you’ll encounter along the way!

Mt Abrupt Wildflowers
Wildflowers at Mt Abrupt, Grampians, Victoria

But be warned – adopting this strategy will probably double the 2-3 hours you’re advised to set aside to complete the climb!!

My other no-fail tip for increasing rest break frequency is, of course, to climb with a twitcher (read: bird watcher!). That way you’ll score extra (read: legitimate) breaks whenever a bird squawks, moves, flutters, flies, scuttles, twitters or just breathes.  That’s because the twitcher will ALWAYS stop to check it out!

And if you need a rest stop, just stop and say the magic words: ‘is that a bird over there in the scrub?’  Trust me!  This REALLY works!!

Victoria Valley View
Victoria Valley View from Mt Abrupt Summit Hike

The town of Dunkeld is worth a stay even if you don’t want to climb Mount Abrupt. It makes a great base – and holiday destination – from which to explore Southern Grampians attractions.  These include the Victoria Valley, Mount Sturgeon and the Piccaninny; and further south to the Kanawinka Geotrail and Great Ocean Road.

I swear my judgement hasn’t been impaired by the town’s excellent selection of baked goods and other eats!

Warning Sign, Mt Abrupt
Warning on Mt Abrupt Summit Hike

Our morning had started with a walk to the nearby Arboretum and Lake.  The superb views of Mount Abrupt’s sheer rocky cliffs (see top photo) left me wondering whether climbing it was such a good idea. The trailhead, a few kilometres north, is an easy drive. The walk starts with a gentle climb – don’t let that stop you wearing sturdy footwear – heading north towards Signal Peak.  It passes through an area rehabilitated after the devastating floods of 2011 that cut the road between Dunkeld and Halls Gap for several months.

Damage to Mt Abrupt Track
Damage to Mt Abrupt Summit Hike Trail

Thank goddess for the 780m Signal Peak dominating the skyline as the track takes a sharp turn to the south-west.  That’s where the real climbing (see? You SO need those boots!) begins up the escarpment. The peak means endless photo opportunities which in turn means – of course – as many rest breaks as you want need!

Luckily, I was well into a significant rest break at about the two-thirds point when two pensioners (pensioner = anyone older than ME) trotted up the track towards me.  They showed none of the signs of fatigue like the shortness of breath, red face and sweaty glow that plagued my progress. If they’d seen me a few minutes earlier, they’d have been forgiven for assuming I was about to collapse.

Signal Peak from Mt Abrupt Walk
Signal Peak and the Serra Range from Mt Abrupt Summit Trail

Attempting a hike of this lengh (6.5 km) and degree of difficulty (HARD!) without water and food would have been madness!

We exchanged a few words – yes, unlike me they could still speak despite the steep gradient (Grade = Hard).  Then they moved on up the rocky trail leaving us to follow more sedately in their wake.

Mt Abrupt Summit
Getting closer to the Mount Abrupt Summit

We take our ‘World’s Slowest Hikers’ tag VERY seriously!!

It’s a complete coincidence that as the trail to the summit gets steeper and more rocky, the scenery gets even more stupendous (read: requiring more ‘photo’ breaks). Panoramic views across the Serra Range, the Victoria Range and Valley, the southern plains and Dunkeld itself make the Mount Abrupt hike one of the most scenic in the Grampians.

View from Mt Abrupt Summit
Signal Peak and Serra Range from Mt Abrupt Summit, Grampians

The magnificent 360° view even gives the Pinnacle and Boroka Lookout back in the more popular tourist area around Halls Gap a run for their money!

And that clear view as we entered the last – and most rocky stretch – of the hike, included the pensioners taking their last few steps to the Mount Abrupt summit!

Mt Abrupt Summit
Mt Abrupt Summit, Grampians, Victoria

By the time we arrived at the peak, however, they were ready to leave, so the staggering 360° scenic sensation was all ours.  We stayed up there for a while.  We needed to a) recover; b) record photographic proof of our achievement; c) eat our lunch; and d) prepare for the rigors of the descent ie continual wildlife, wildflower and scenery shots! I’ll leave you to imagine how long that took!!

Mt Abrupt Summit Hike Track
Mt Abrupt Summit Hike Track

After that, we completed the hike by retracing our steps 3.25 km back down the steep, rocky track to the trail-head and carpark.  For us, about 5 hours after we set off!

But if you thought descending was the easy part of your quest to climb Mount Abrupt, you’d be wrong!

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5 Grampians Wildflower HOT Spots! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/11/5-grampians-wildflower-hot-spots/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/11/5-grampians-wildflower-hot-spots/#comments Sat, 09 Nov 2013 02:56:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=21 NEW from RedzAustralia!

In spring, the distinctive landscapes of Victoria’s Grampians National Park – where vista after staggering vista stretches out in an almost endless 360° scenic panorama – become an irritating distraction from its main attraction! Because springtime is double the fun in the Grampians when every magnificent view comes with a bonus extra – a unique display of wildflowers especially formulated[...]

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Tinsel Lilies, Grampians
Tinsel Lilies on the Mafeking Road, Grampians, Victoria

In spring, the distinctive landscapes of Victoria’s Grampians National Park – where vista after staggering vista stretches out in an almost endless 360° scenic panorama – become an irritating distraction from its main attraction!

Because springtime is double the fun in the Grampians when every magnificent view comes with a bonus extra – a unique display of wildflowers especially formulated to match it!
Nothing quite like Grampians Heath - these flowers near Lake Bellfield
Nothing quite like Grampians Heath – these flowers near Lake Bellfield
And I’ll prove it! Follow along as I retrace our footsteps through FIVE FAAAAABULOUS wildflower extravaganzas we saw in the Grampians in spring 2012 and 2013 (Oct/Nov)!
Although the scenery takes second place in this post …

1.  Boroka Lookout:

Boroka Lookout
Boroka Lookout and the view to Halls Gap, Victoria
Arguably the best-known view in the Grampians, the iconic Boroka lookout high above Halls Gap on a clear day can leave viewers breathless!
Grampians Wildflowers, Victoria
Grampians Wildflowers, Victoria
Especially when one contemplates the hiking trail from the town below to the lookout – that’s probably even worse going down than coming up!!
Pink Thryptomene, Grampians
Pink Thryptomene, Grampians, Victoria
Nearby, the flowers on the high plateau cover the rocky ledges and draw the eye away from that gob-smacking view!!
The magnificent endemic Thryptomene  (Thryptomene calycina) in full floral flight can be found throughout the Grampians in spring.
BUT … some prefer the pink version.
What do YOU think?

2.  Heatherlie Quarry:

Orchids at Heatherlie Quarry and surrounds, Grampians National Park, Victoria
Orchids at Heatherlie Quarry and surrounds, Grampians National Park, Victoria

 

Thryptomene is also a staple at historic Heatherlie Quarry, but it takes second place to the orchids along the walking trail from the car park.
Wattle at Heatherlie Quarry
Wattle at Heatherlie Quarry
It’s hard to imagine this now deserted site in the middle of the bush as the thriving commercial centre it once was.
But exploring the site with the help of interpretative signs reveals its historical connection to many of Melbourne’s buildings.
With vegetation well on the way to re-claiming the bare rock faces left by many years of quarrying, the site is only a couple of good seasons from disappearing into the surrounding bushland.

3.  Silverband Falls:

Silverband Falls, Grampians, Victoria
Silverband Falls, Grampians, Victoria

Weirdly, no matter how wonderful the waterfall, my photo of it will almost certainly look like a white line on a dark backdrop.

My shots of Silverband Falls – a recovering natural disaster zone after the twin ravages of fierce bushfire followed by catasrophic flood – are sadly no exception!

So I’ve gone for an arty water shot instead …

… and you’ll just have to trust me that this is, indeed, Silverband Falls!!

Not that it matters with wildflowers like these on offer!
Wildflowers - and a sprouting fern - at Silverband Falls, Grampians, Victoria
Wildflowers – and a sprouting fern – at Silverband Falls, Grampians, Victoria
After following the falls recuperation over three visits following the flood, it’s amazing how the vegetation has regenerated. And while the gully may never return to its ‘normal’ state the wildflowers are making a welcome comeback.

4.  Victoria Valley:

Victoria Range Ti-tree
Victoria Range with Ti-tree

Running between the Serra Range to the east and the Victoria Range to the west, the wild and remote country around the Glenelg River with the jagged mountain range (at left) silhouetted against the sky is softened by spring wildflowers.

The strong colours – the red of the earth, the blue of the sky, and the green of the plain – are barely noticeable when blanketed with white.
Yes, the ti-tree in full bloom is what passes for snow in this almost-outback off the beaten track part of the Grampians National Park!
Ti-tree close-up
Ti-tree close-up

Don’t miss it if you want to see a carpet of flowers, a knife edge of rocky mountains and a scattering of wildlife!

5.  Mount Abrupt:

The penultimate (LOVE that word!) mountain before the Serra Range sinks into the plain at the Grampians southern end, Mt Abrupt’s impressive peak rises over 800 metres above sea level.
View from Mt Abrupt, Southern Grampians
View from Mt Abrupt, Southern Grampians, Victoria, Australia
While the view from its peak is one of the best in the Grampians (yes, that’s MY opinion, and I’ll back it up with photos in a later post!) the wildflowers en route to the summit offer a welcome opportunity to stop for a rest photo break.
Mt Abrupt Wildflowers
Mt Abrupt Wildflowers, Grampians, Victoria
With an elevation of ~460 metres, you’ll need a LOT of photo breaks over the 6.5 km return trip – if you’re anything like me, that is!!
Moss Flowers found wherever there is - yes, you guessed it - wet moss!! Grampians, Victoria
Moss Flowers found wherever there is – yes, you guessed it – wet moss!! Grampians, Victoria
Hitting these hotspots for a double dose of killer view AND awesome array of wildflowers is just a teaser! There’s a lot more to see – both scenically AND florally – all around the Grampians at this time of year!
BUT … be warned! Wildflowers aren’t the only natural phenomenon to come out in spring … so watch your step!
Tiger Snake
Tiger Snake … don’t catch THIS tiger by the tail!!!
Read MORE:

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Walk the Pinnacle – Grampians National Park https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/01/walk-the-pinnacle-grampians-national-park-victoria/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/01/walk-the-pinnacle-grampians-national-park-victoria/#comments Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:33:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=76 NEW from RedzAustralia!

WARNING: Do NOT attempt the Pinnacle walk if you don’t like A) heights; B) snakes; C) wildflowers; or D) looking uncool! Whether or not D) applies depends to a certain degree on physical fitness levels – and possibly hiking fashion sense! Although tragically that’s not a factor if you’re like me.  That red face, heaving chest and death-rattle puffing after[...]

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The Pinnacle Lookout with Lake Bellfield below, Grampians National Park, Victoria
The Pinnacle Lookout with Lake Bellfield below, Grampians National Park, Victoria

WARNING: Do NOT attempt the Pinnacle walk if you don’t like A) heights; B) snakes; C) wildflowers; or D) looking uncool!

Whether or not D) applies depends to a certain degree on physical fitness levels – and possibly hiking fashion sense! Although tragically that’s not a factor if you’re like me.  That red face, heaving chest and death-rattle puffing after ascending the 470 metre elevation (~1560 feet) of the Pinnacle hike are guaranteed to immediately counteract the effects of even the most fashionable hiking gear!

he Pinnacle (see circle & inset) from Halls Gap Main Street, Grampians National Park
The Pinnacle (see circle & inset) from Halls Gap Main Street, Grampians National Park

Sadly, the general store in Grampians town Halls Gap sells everything – except badges that state ‘Don’t Panic! I’m NOT having a heart attack!’

Mackeys Peak rock en route to the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park
Mackeys Peak rock en route to the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park

So wielding a camera as if you know what you’re doing is a far better antidote to D).  That’s because it’s possible to surreptitiously catch your breath under the guise of admiring and photographing the view.

Starting the Pinnacle hike

Thankfully, there are a lot of views to admire on the 3.6 km (2.23 mile) trek up the escarpment.  Leave from the trail-head behind the Halls Gap Caravan Park which will take you to the Pinnacle, one of the most popular vantage points in the Grampians National Park.

But admiring the staggering view from the truly impressive vantage point of the Pinnacle doesn’t come easily.

The jagged rocky outcrops forming the distinctive Halls Gap skyline appear impossibly high up and far away (see above). But the sharply pointed spur of rock with fuzzy edges – the safety rail – jutting out from the clifftop along the line of peaks above the town IS attainable!

Halls Gap Caravan Park Campground from Stony Creek
Halls Gap Caravan Park Campground from Stony Creek

Of course a ‘Hard’ grade hike requires preparation. So before you climb, take a trip to the Halls Gap Bakery, full of ready made sandwiches, rolls and apple shortbreads (me) and vanilla slices (Pilchard). Although these are readily interchangeable with the Lumberjack cake (me) and Hedgehog slice (Pilchard).

The first leg to Mackeys Peak

Stop at the grave of baby Agnes Ffoulkes, tragic victim of the hardships faced by pioneers in this once-remote spot.  The track immediately ascends to the first of many staircases that make the first leg to Mackeys Peak a pretty stiff climb. Stop to admire and photograph (yes, that’s a euphemism!) the fine views of Chatauqua Peak and across the valley to Boronia Peak.  They’re both fine walks for another day. At this point, you’ll be looking up at them.

Red rests at Mackeys Peak, 2011, wth Halls Gap and Boronia Peak
Red rests at Mackeys Peak, 2011, wth Halls Gap and Boronia Peak in the background

BUT … you’ll soon be higher than both!

If you keep going, that is. There’s no shame in returning to Halls Gap at this point.  But why forgo the excitement of an uncountable number of steps; steep drop-offs and cliffs; wildflowers; and possibly even snakes?

Keep Climbing!

Steeper than they look!!!
Steeper than they look!!!

And if you’re already a victim of D), you’ve got nothing to lose by carrying on …

Finally the stairs even out and the heavily wooded track winds almost horizontally through a scattering of impressive rocky outcrops.  Some of them have scary looking rock-climbing paraphernalia attached at crazy heights (see below). Don’t underestimate (or under-utilise) the many opportunities available in this section to further reduce the impact of D) by stopping to photograph the numerous wildflowers along the trail.

That’s if you’ve been smart enough to take the hike in spring!

The Grampians wildflower season lasts for several months, and there are many species to see along the way. And snakes, so watch your step!

Grampians Wildflowers on the Pinnacle Trail, Victoria
Grampians Wildflowers on the Pinnacle Trail, Victoria

You’ll be grateful you took those D)-preventative photographic precautions as the track emerges from the forest and into the open. Now you’re right amongst the distinctive weathered granite peaks and crags that epitomise the jagged mountain ranges of Grampians.

Rock face with Climbing gear, Pinnacle track, Grampians National Park
Rock face with Climbing gear, Pinnacle track, Grampians National Park

Keep Climbing

The track winds steadily up along rocky spurs, through narrow ravines and along ridgetops towards the Pinnacle. A red face and shortness of breath just can’t be helped here – unless you’re one of those frightening fitness-fetishists largely responsible for the high rates of low self-esteem amongst the less young and agile.

Top of the Ridge Panorama, with Pinnacle Lookout at left, Grampians National Park, Victoria
Top of the Ridge Panorama, with Pinnacle Lookout at left, Grampians National Park, Victoria

But the scenic splendour now unfolding all around more than makes up for any residual effects of a life-long love affair with country bakeries. Staggering views across the valley emerge with Halls Gap nestled WAAAAAY below.  Lake Bellfield is also glinting in the sunlight – although neither lake waters nor sunlight are guaranteed!

Pilchard and the Sleeping Giant behind the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park
Pilchard and the Sleeping Giant behind the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park

The Summit of the Pinnacle

Tempting though it is to keep your finger on the shutter button as the panorama unfolds, take my advice and save yourself for the 360° vista from the Pinnacle.  That’s if your nerves are strong enough to negotiate the safety-fenced narrow neck of rock sticking out over– well – nothing!

Halls Gap from the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park, Victoria
Halls Gap from the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park, Victoria

Unless you count the Fyans valley just under half a kilometre below.

Australian Raven at the Pinnacle
Australian Raven at the Pinnacle

If there are any left, combine the bakery goods with a breather that’ll return your complexion to normal hues before taking the proof-I-made-it-to-the-top shots. But keep a wary eye on the marauding Australian Raven, inevitably at the summit.

The grab rail safety fence is sturdy enough to lean on for the obligatory photos.  However, the view from this vantage point is just WAAAAAY too big to effectively capture in one shot.

Although it’s virtually guaranteed you’ll have time to spare while you wait your turn on the Pinnacle.  Tedious ‘Titanic’ type photo shoots are becoming de rigueur!!!

The Descent

Descend the way you came, or make it a round trip by going down through a series of natural rock formations known as ‘Wonderland’.

Unless you’ve got the stamina for a further 9.5 km hike to Lake Bellfield, and another few kilometres back to Halls Gap, the shortest return option is to retrace your steps.

Boroka Lookout View - Rocky Ridge leading to the Pinnacle at right
Boroka Lookout View – Rocky Ridge leading to the Pinnacle at right

See the whole thing from the well known Boroka lookout high on the range behind Halls Gap. A shortish drive and a 50m stroll and this magnificent panorama will give you all the context you need for your Pinnacle assault!

But not the same sense of satisfaction!

Pilchard descends the staircase from hell
Pilchard descends the staircase from hell

Keep a close eye on those killer knee-wrecking stairs as you descend to prevent them becoming killer neck-breaking stairs!

And make way for the show-offs idiots really fit people who JOG down!!

If it seems a long way down, console yourself with the thought that you’ve SO earned more Bakery opportunities at the end of it.

And that D) will no longer be a problem …

Want MORE?

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #21 – Lake Bellfield, Grampian NP, Victoria https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/01/australias-scenic-public-toilets-21-lake-bellfield-grampian-np-victoria/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/01/australias-scenic-public-toilets-21-lake-bellfield-grampian-np-victoria/#comments Tue, 24 Jan 2012 12:18:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=156 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Lake Bellfield – AND Scenic Public Toilet – from Dam Wall, Grampians, Victoria At first glance you’d think the only thing lacking in this staggering panorama is a scenic public toilet, right? Wrong! Look again – they’ve thought of everything on the shores of Lake Bellfield, deep in the heart of Victoria’s Grampians National Park. Lake Bellfield from the Amenities![...]

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Lake Bellfield – AND Scenic Public Toilet – from Dam Wall, Grampians, Victoria

At first glance you’d think the only thing lacking in this staggering panorama is a scenic public toilet, right?

Wrong! Look again – they’ve thought of everything on the shores of Lake Bellfield, deep in the heart of Victoria’s Grampians National Park.

Lake Bellfield from the Amenities!
Still can’t see it? The red circle in the lower right hand corner highlights this convenient combination of public amenities, information shelter, lookout and picnic area.
Oh – and a car parking area for those who want to work off their lunch (or in our case, the large selection of goodies from the nearby Hall’s Gap Bakery) with an interesting ~1km return walk across the dam wall.
Take the stroll if you want photos like these!!

On the bottom of Lake Bellfied, mid-2000’s
For the even more energetic, arrange a pick up and walk from Halls Gap (only 5 km away), or across the range from Pomonal along the historic Tunnel Track – an amazing engineering feat!
During the recent debilitating 10 year drought, the lake – completed in 1966 by damming Fyans Creek – virtually dried up, as this ~2003/4 photo shows.
Just over a year ago, the drought broke with killer flooding rains and is now nearly at its ~78500 ML capacity. From these photos, it’s hard to believe the lake is 36 metres deep!

Below the dam wall, Lake Bellfield, Grampians, Victoria
Reflected in the lake, the rugged and untamed wilderness of the Serra Range is a monument to the effects of many significant weathering events like these over countless past aeons.
And below the dam wall, the lush vegetation stretches along the valley all the way to Halls Gap.

But it’s not all about the landscape and scenery here at Lake Bellfield!
Echidna at Lake Bellfield, Grampians, Victoria
You’d be VERY unlucky not to spot a kangaroo in the area, and the echidnas (echidnae??) were out in force during our October 2011 visit – this one right in the car park next to the lake.

OK, I’ve convinced myself! There’s SO much going on here, this Aussie scenic loo is actually a destination in its own right – not just a rest stop!!

Want more information?
Lake Bellfield Amenities Block – AND view!

If 78,500+ Megalitres isn’t quite enough water for you, get your fill over at Watery Wednesday!!  Enjoy!

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Walk Mount Zero! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/11/walk-mount-zero/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/11/walk-mount-zero/#comments Sun, 27 Nov 2011 23:33:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=168 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Hollow Mountain and Mt Stapylton from the Mt Zero Summit, Northern Grampians, Victoria Hauling myself up the rocky drop-off towering above my head, I desperately clung to the cold hand rail, slippery with drizzle, hoping like hell my arms wouldn’t give way. Vertigo kicked in as I scrabbled for a foothold. Looking neither to the right (dizzying drop off) or[...]

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Hollow Mountain and Mt Stapylton from the Mt Zero Summit, Northern Grampians, Victoria

Hauling myself up the rocky drop-off towering above my head, I desperately clung to the cold hand rail, slippery with drizzle, hoping like hell my arms wouldn’t give way. Vertigo kicked in as I scrabbled for a foothold. Looking neither to the right (dizzying drop off) or the left (dizzying drop off), I focused on wedging the toe of my trusty Aussie T-boot into the cleft in the rock.

Looking down the track
This probably wasn’t the best time to test exactly how non-slip my boot soles really were …

Sweating like a pigGlowing gently in the October 2011 Grampians spring day humidity, I thought longingly of the splendid Halls Gap Bakery lunch we’d left in the car, a couple of hundred metres below.
This walk was a fairly short – and moderate – one wasn’t it? On that, Pilchard and I had agreed. We’d climbed Mt Zero, northernmost peak of Victoria’s magnificent Grampians many years before and we both remembered a climb to a fantastic vantage point from which the Dadswells Bridge Big Koala was ALMOST visible!

‘Let’s knock this one over before lunch,’ Pilchard had suggested as we pulled into the car park, ready for some Northern Grampians action. ‘It won’t take long.’ I agreed. How hard could it be?

Yeah right. Who’s sorry now, I wondered, toiling up the last pinch before the summit. The track wasn’t familiar and I was beginning to doubt that we HAD previously hiked it – until we’d reached the grab rail. THAT I recalled. But why had I thought the hike was easy?
Looking North from Mt Zero summit, Grampians, Victoria
Thankfully a grab rail surrounded the summit – so I could enjoy the staggering 360ºview overlooking the plains of Victoria’s Wimmera district to the north, and the great bulk of Mt Stapylton and Hollow Mountain to the south. And to think! Down there somewhere, hidden in the undergrowth near the car park was a scenic public toilet just itching to be photographed (see if you can spot it in the top photo!!). But not from here – it wasn’t visible from this distance …

We peered down the sheer cliff dropping away to the plains beneath. Where was the ‘other’ track of yesteryear? The ‘easy’ one we both remembered climbing last time??
No wonder it’s not visible from the summit!
Nada.

A light drizzle drifted under my visor, its misty drops speckling my glasses. I exhaled. My glasses fogged up and my vision went from ‘blurred’ to ‘non-existent’. How much fun would the descent be if the rain started for real?!?!

Slowly, we picked our way back down over the track’s now-wet rocks and slippery clay. A dramatic panorama opened out in front of us – even better on the descent and even more atmospheric in the deepening drizzle. Clear days were REALLY overrated.
Although my shorts MIGHT have survived better if the steep bits of the track I scooted down on my bum had actually been dry …

Back in the carpark, our bakery lunch quickly becoming a distant memory, I checked the track notes in the Grampians guide. ‘A steep climb for the adventurous family …’ it began, going on to describe the rail-assisted ascent. No, it wasn’t the most difficult walk in the park – but nor was it the most relaxing!
Coming down the mountain – wildflowers on Mt Zero track!
How could we have thought this walk was easy? Were we losing our minds and/or memories?? What possible explanation could there be for our amnesiac poor judgement???

The more we thought about it, the more we were drawn to one inescapable conclusion, the only explanation that made any sense.
Sad … but true.  The last time we’d climbed Mt Zero, we were 20 years younger … so that explains EVERYTHING!!!

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Favourite Place #7 – Halls Gap, Grampians, Victoria https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/11/favourite-place-7-halls-gap-grampians-victoria/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/11/favourite-place-7-halls-gap-grampians-victoria/#comments Tue, 01 Nov 2011 23:16:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=175 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Halls Gap, Lake Bellfield and surrounds from Boroka Lookout What do you call a town set amidst a 360ºpanorama of staggering beauty? A town with not only a clutch of Australia’s most scenic public toilets in and around it, but (arguably) the most spectacular caravan park and bakery settings in OZ?? Not just ANY old bakery, but (arguably) the best in[...]

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

Halls Gap, Lake Bellfield and surrounds from Boroka Lookout

What do you call a town set amidst a 360ºpanorama of staggering beauty? A town with not only a clutch of Australia’s most scenic public toilets in and around it, but (arguably) the most spectacular caravan park and bakery settings in OZ?? Not just ANY old bakery, but (arguably) the best in Victoria – and only a few steps from our caravan park site???



Halls Gap Bakery in front of Boronia Peak
Halls Gap Caravan Park
Is there such a wondrous, heavenly place? Sure is, but what would you call it??

Halls Gap, that’s what you’d call it!! Just as well it’s got a real name – my superlative well is running dry …

Echidna
Within minutes of our arrival, we’d spotted an echidna hunting for ants opposite our campsite on Stony Creek. An unmistakeable creaking door call signalled a pair of Gang gang cockatoo drifting overhead, in turn distracting us from the mob of kangaroos feeding on the lawn between us and the amenities block.  And the snakes?  Well … less said about them, the better!

But not even this wildlife extravaganza could get between us and our ultimate post-campsite-set-up goal – the sensational Halls Gap bakery!! Where despite an absence of seven years, one of the staff actually recognised us …

What could we do but reward such devotion with a daily visit?? But I digress …

Main Street – ‘The Pinnacle’ circled in red, more detail in inset
Halls Gap, epicentre of Victoria’s wildly magnificent Grampians National Park, is gateway to many of its most iconic attractions. But the town’s jaw-dropping setting is only part of its attraction – the impressive amalgam of country town, first rate facilities and range of accomodation make it the perfect base to explore. And we should know. While we’ve included new experiences in each of the ~20 trips we’ve made over 20 years, we STILL haven’t seen or done everything.

But our must-see list includes three central Grampians icons – the only three spots common to every Grampians stay we’ve shared. And after such a long absence, we were keen to re-visit our old favourites.

Agnes Foulkes Grave
Heatherlie Quarry Ruin
First, a pilgrimage to the grave of 3 month old baby Agnes Foulkes, a tragic victim of diptheria in 1870 when a floods prevented her parents from getting her to a doctor.  Check.

Next, a trip to nearby Heatherlie Quarry – its rock used to build and repair several Melbourne landmarks, including Parliament House! The spectacular seasonal array of wildflowers (including Grampians endemic thryptomene) and towering rock ledges offset the ruins of remaining buildings and machinery. Check.

Heatherlie Quarry Wildflowers
Finally, we headed towards Venus Baths – rock formations so named because … well, I’m sure I don’t need to spell it out! Pilchard and his five brothers (yes, his mother DOES deserve an OBE) spent many childhood hours frolicking there without serious injury or death – but with the gravity of adulthood, we content ourselves with a more sedate walk and rock hop.

In October 2011, however, our three-icon tradition was destined to come to an end when we reached the fence that blocked the Venus Baths track!

Fence?

The 10 year drought that plagued much of Victoria ended spectacularly in January 2011, when 270mm of rain fell in two days culminating in 190 landslips causing road blockages, track closures and general flood damage throughout the park. Halls Gap itself was threatened by floodwaters from Fyans Creek as it flowed down into Stony Creek through the town – from Venus Baths.  The baths are now fenced off until track viability can be assessed.

Mt Stapylton and Hollow Mountain from Mt Zero Summit
Limited reporting of the flood and its aftermath means local and overseas visitors to this beautiful and historic region are often unprepared for road and track closures, as were we. Visitor Information Centre staff tell of travellers so disappointed by the closure of several well known Grampians landmarks and trails that they take out their frustration on staff.  But now, enough walks to to keep us going for much longer than the 9 days we stayed are open – including Halls Gap landmark ‘The Pinnacle’.



Mt Sturgeon and Mt Abrupt, Dunkeld
In this extensive and diverse National Park, stretching from Mt Zero, Mt Stapylton and Hollow Mountain in the north, to the magnificent Mt Sturgeon and Mt Abrupt near Dunkeld at the southern limit, it’s easy, even for long-time visitors like Pilchard and I, to discover new experiences and new favourites. We walked new trails, visited lookouts and waterfalls. We found wildflowers, birds and animals. We visited neighbouring towns and explored Halls Gap thoroughly.  In fact, we only left because a long weekend meant our prime site by the creek was booked out!!

Why is Halls Gap one of my favourite OZ places?

View from Mt William, Grampians
Halls Gap is more than just a town. Its way of life is a focus for a huge and varied range of activities and features including hiking, bushwalking, sightseeing, wineries, shopping, restaurants, fabulous scenery, wildflowers, scenic public toilets, birdwatching, fishing, camping, lookouts, lakes, mountains, wildlife. And – of course – the bakery!
So what you see isn’t all you get – its majesty, serenity and beauty are legendary.  So much so, I believe its magical properties can deliver amazing and unforgettable experiences no matter who you are!  It’s just that kind of place.

And after 20 years of taking what Halls Gap and the Grampians National Park has to offer, it’s payback time. Consider this a teaser post, because there’s WAAAAAY too many experiences to fit in here. More posts and more superlatives to come …

Red against Halls Gap panorama!
And who knows? We might even meet you there – because one thing’s for sure. It won’t be another seven years before our next Grampians adventure!!
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