Paroo-Darling National Park Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/paroo-darling-national-park/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Sun, 18 Aug 2019 13:14:35 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Paroo-Darling National Park Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/paroo-darling-national-park/ 32 32 6 ALMOST Secret TOP Australian National Parks! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/#comments Mon, 11 Mar 2013 21:31:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=63 NEW from RedzAustralia!

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks? I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks! And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project. The question comes up because lots of visitors stop[...]

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NatParks_Infographic_LR

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks?

I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks!

And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project.

The question comes up because lots of visitors stop counting after Uluru-Kata Tjuta, the Great Barrier Reef, Kakadu and the Blue Mountains. But what about the other 500 or so? Over the years, our travels in Australia have taken us to some spectacular National Parks that we’ve often had all to ourselves.

Using Explore Australia’s National Parks will help to narrow the field. And I’m not just saying that because I was lucky to get a complementary copy – check out the infographic at left, then take a little armchair tour of these 6 less well known Australian National Parks and you’ll see what I mean!!

And if this doesn’t whet your appetite for Aussie travel, then NOTHING will!

Let’s head to South Australia first!

1. Great Australian Bight Marine National Park, South Australia

Driving the Nullarbor is the ultimate road trip – part of a 4000 km journey from one side of Australia to the other, its big chunks of nothing broken only by roadhouses, rest stops and ‘roos! And stopping for the obligatory photo of yourself in the middle of a long stretch of empty road with nothing all around …

Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia

But the drive through the Nullarbor Regional Reserve is an adventure in itself with several world exclusives, including Nullarbor Links, the world’s longest golf course; the Nullarbor itself, world’s longest, flattest limetone formation; and the Bunda cliffs – longest unbroken stretch of cliffs without a natural harbour in the world.

Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia
Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia

For those unimpressed by such things, the Great Australian Bight – that big concave bit along the bottom of the continent – is a world reknowned Southern Right Whale nursery and migration path.

And on a good day – May to October – literally dozens of whales and calves can be spotted up and down the coast from the Head of Bight viewing platforms.

Such a spectacle, in fact, that I almost didn’t notice the scenic public toilet!

Read MORE: Whale Watching at Head of Bight

2. Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

For a complete change of pace, Victoria’s Mallee country is a surprise to those who thought the Outback was confined to Australia’s more central parts.

Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

Only 450 km north-west of Melbourne, visit Wyperfeld’s eastern section from nearby Hopetoun or Rainbow, but for a real outback experience camp in one of the park’s two campgrounds and explore the park on foot.

Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

With walking trails to suit all levels of fitness, the park is part of a complex lake system and is a known habitat for the endangered Mallee fowl.

During our May 2012 day trip, we saw two other cars. But although lots of others joined us for our second stay on the June long weekend in 2014,  we were on our own again once the weekend was over.

And when you’re done with Wyperfeld, drop in to nearby Patchewollock for the BIG Mallee fowl!

Read MORE: Patchewollock and Hopetoun 

3. Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

The poor relation of Exmouth’s two parks, Cape Range is often overshadowed by the world famous Whale Sharks of Ningaloo Reef. And while these Western Australian Coral Coast offshore attractions are undeniably spectacular, Cape Range was so intriguing on our August 2012 visit, we saved Ningaloo for next time.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

After escaping our campsite between the twin delights of the amenities block and the backpacker accomodation, Yardie Creek Gorge along the western side of the range running down the middle of Northwest Cape was a welcome surprise.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

It’s not every day you get to see a classic Outback Gorge with a river running into the ocean!

The eastern side of the range was even more dramatic. A very rough, narrow, winding and steep drive along the aptly named Charles Knife Road revealed more rugged Outback scenery with staggering views across to the ocean.

And in the height of tourist season, with caravan parks and campgrounds full to bursting, we lucked out with only a couple of other vehicles!

Although one contained quite possibly the only sarong-wearing Frenchman in the world …

Read MORE: Exploring Cape Range National Park

Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

4. Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

Described to us as the ‘mini Bungle Bungles’ in a nod to one of Western Australia’s big ticket items, the Northern Territory’s Keep River National Park actually abuts the WA border. And makes a mockery of the 1½ hour time difference! Although we left Kununurra early, by the time we’d visited the Ranger station and nearby Cockatoo Lagoon, then driven to the 7km Jarnem Loop walk trailhead, the morning had all but gone.

Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

No matter.

This spectacular walk through bizarre rock formations to the 360ºlookout, then down through a lightly wooded valley past more rock formations to an Aboriginal rock shelter complete with paintings was virtually people free!

White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park
White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park

Add a lifer – White-quilled Rock-pigeon – for twitcher Pilchard and I see a return to this remote Top End park in our future …

I can only imagine the views at sunset and sunrise – but one day we’ll stay in one of the campgrounds for a few days and find out!

And when one day we visit the real Bungle Bungles, we’ll see how it got it’s nickname.

5. Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

Jolting along the rough road from remote opal mining town White Cliffs towards Paroo-Darling National Park’s Peery Lake, we spotted a Winnebago parked in the middle of the road. Stopping to make sure the owners were OK, we asked where they’d come from. The middle aged couple exchanged guilty glances and seemed strangely reluctant to tell us.

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales

‘You’re not Park rangers, are you?’, she finally asked. Then the penny dropped! They’d illegally stayed at the lake overnight.

‘It’s not really camping,’ she continued. ‘We’re fully self-contained!’

And that was our introduction to both Paroo-Darling National Park and the new definitions of ‘camping’.

Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales
Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

The park is a string of seven old pastoral leases, several of which form one of the only reserves on the Darling River floodplain.

The park’s only campground – the Coach and Horses – is in this section, more easily reached from Wilcannia.

In the northern sections, along the Paroo River Overflow before it meets the Darling near Wilcannia. In this part of the park, the massive bulk of Lake Peery, full during our 2010 visit, supports abundant birdlife but when dry its unique mound springs become visible.

Read MORE: White Cliffs, New South Wales

6. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland

Back in 1998 on our first and only visit, Queensland’s Lawn Hill was considered a remote destination with the riverbanks at closest town Gregory Downs a makeshift stopover campsite before the rigours of 100 km of bulldust and gravel.

Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

Nowadays, nearly 15 years later, it’s still a long, hard 100 km of unsealed road. With either mud or dust, depending on the time of year.

But it’s still one of the most spectacularly memorable National Parks in Australia, an Outback oasis with a soaring red rocky gorge system, clear water and staggering scenery. The canoe trip from the camping area up the gorge, then over the portage point into the higher gorge is an amazing experience. Get close to the wildlife too! Swim with the giant carp, spot freshwater crocodiles lurking in the gorges – and watch out for snakes in the water! My first instinct was to paddle like hell when my oar nearly hit a snake in the water; but Pilchard wanted to paddle back to see what he’d missed.

Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

I guess that’s the essential difference between us!

Back at the campground’s cold showers, the high limestone content in the water gave a whole new meaning to ‘sculpted hairdo’ …

Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

While travelling to these National Parks may take a little longer, the trip is well worth the extravaganza of stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and extraordinary experiences you’ll encounter.

If YOU would like to explore Australia’s National Parks further, Explore Australia’s Explore Australia’s National Parks would make a GREAT investment in your Aussie travel!

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7-and-a-half Minutes in Paradise! White Cliffs, New South Wales https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/02/7-and-a-half-minutes-in-paradise-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/02/7-and-a-half-minutes-in-paradise-white-cliffs-new-south-wales/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 02:09:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=152 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Think of ‘Australia’ and ‘Paradise’ in the same sentence and I’ll bet you’re thinking tropical. White sandy beaches, palms and and clear blue sea. Colourful fish, corals and lush rainforest. Balmy, moonlit nights and cocktails under the stars. But that splendid vision – while undeniably fabulous – is only one of many versions of utopia in this country of diverse[...]

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White Cliffs Waterhole, Outback New South Wales
White Cliffs Waterhole, Outback New South Wales

Think of ‘Australia’ and ‘Paradise’ in the same sentence and I’ll bet you’re thinking tropical. White sandy beaches, palms and and clear blue sea. Colourful fish, corals and lush rainforest. Balmy, moonlit nights and cocktails under the stars.

Welcome to White Cliffs + Kestrel!
Welcome to White Cliffs + Kestrel!

But that splendid vision – while undeniably fabulous – is only one of many versions of utopia in this country of diverse delights. We never know where we’ll find it next – so we keep our minds AND eyes wide open!!

Even so, to discover the ultimate paradise in remote Outback opal mining town White Cliffs was a surprise, even by our standards.

But to find it lasted for exactly 7-and-a-half minutes was completely unexpected!

In the depths of the remote New South Wales Outback, White Cliffs isn’t the sort of place you stumble across by accident, unless you’re lost or maybe on the run. But whoever you are, and however you arrive, there’s a paradise for everyone in this small (~200 population) community’s many attractions.

Fossicking Fields, White Cliffs, Outback New South Wales
Fossicking Fields, White Cliffs, Outback New South Wales

For a start there’s the scenery. The endless blue skies over the vast moonscape of the opal mines, pocked with slag heaps and scattered with genuine Aussie dunnies. The colours and light unique to this archetypal outback landscape have inspired more than one artist and photographer! But this lasts WAAAAAAY more than 7-and-a-half minutes!

Then there’s the opal. The first commercial opal field in Australia, and the only place in the world where ‘White Cliffs Pineapple’ opal is found, the unbelievable landscape left by thousands of abandoned mines still attracts opal hunters.

50,000 'Stubbies' and counting ...
50,000 ‘Stubbies’ and counting …

But we didn’t even have to leave the excellent Opal Pioneer Caravan Park to find it – a few questions about the town’s attractions and the manager was pressing bits of opal into my open and willing hands! Even our amateurish fossicking field foray was ‘successful’ – even though the few bits of ‘colour’ we found didn’t amount to a hill of beans in the REAL world of opal trading!! Paradise could be a chunk of high quality black opal – but I’d want a bit more than 7-and-a-half minutes worth for the kind of money I’d need to get me one!

50c for an above-ground mine tour - Bargain!
50c for an above-ground mine tour – Bargain!

But it’s almost worth NOT finding your own opal when the local dealers offer world class experiences. The 50,000 stubbies* from which Joe’s Opal Showroom is made house fabulous opal jewellery, gifts and artwork, for example. And (arguably) the cheapest above ground opal mine tour in the world is on offer at the Red Earth Opal Showroom and Cafe!

A fine substitute for those (all right, ME) too gutless to follow Pilchard’s lead down a 45 ft shaft on a shaky iron ladder into the depths of the owner’s mine …

Home on the White Cliffs Opal Fields, Outback New South Wales
Home on the White Cliffs Opal Fields, Outback New South Wales

And there’s more unique experiences up for grabs on the self-guided White Cliffs Heritage trail tour. The interpretive signs give fascinating snippets of local history and the tour takes you through all the town’s vantage points – and the colourful array of opal field dwellings. Ironically, despite being the first of its kind in Australia (and possibly the world), the innovative White Cliffs Solar Power station is no longer operational, with town power supplied from the grid.

White Cliffs Golf Course
White Cliffs Golf Course

But the golf course IS functional – and provides a unique challenge to those more accustomed to conventional courses. But enticing as these attractions are, do they comprise the ultimate paradise? No way! And even the most experienced golfer needs more than 7-and-a-half minutes to get round THIS course!!!

We didn’t need the helpful ranger at the eco-friendly Paroo-Darling National Park Visitor’s Centre to tell us we’d landed in bird watcher’s heaven! The Nankeen Kestrel on the ‘White Cliffs’ sign at the town entrance did that! As did Orange Chat, Stubble Quail and Horsfield’s Bushlark feeding in the gutters on the Tibooburra road, and Chestnut-crowned Babbler and Chirruping Wedgebill rampaging in the scrub around the fossicking pits.

Dam near White Cliffs
Dam near White Cliffs

The early morning splendour of this water-bird filled dam and sightings of dry country nomad White-fronted Honeyeater made up for the tyre-shreddingly rugged road to massive Lake Peery – full on our June 2011 visit.

Meaning we didn’t get to see the artesian mound springs on the lake bed that provide a habitat for the rare salt pipe wort (eriocaulon carsonii) when the lake is dry! Paradise, yes. Ultimate? Not quite …

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park via White Cliffs, NSW
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park via White Cliffs, NSW

So what DOES the ultimate 7-and-a-half minute paradise look like?

Before we got to White Cliffs, the magnificent setting of our campsite at Lake Pamamaroo made up for the nearest loo being 1 km and the nearest fresh water 16 km down the road. And after 6 nights of severely curtailed ablutions also due to a) low temperatures; b) the absence of a shower block; and c) minimal gas and water? Well … you figure it out!! The excitement of having possibly the only Milo-swigging, bird watching, pyromaniac, fisherman partner on the continent was starting to wear off …

Still life at White Cliffs
Still life at White Cliffs

So as darkness fell on our first night in White Cliffs and the temperature plummeted, Pilchard and I headed for the caravan park amenities. Where for the absolute bargain price of $1, a wondrous heart-stoppingly blissful geyser of HOT water poured through the shower. For exactly 7-and-a-half minutes!!

That’s what I’m talking about! Paradise!!

And not a palm tree in sight!

Want MORE?

* One stubby = one 375 ml beer bottle

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