Great Australian Bight Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/great-australian-bight/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 03:06:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Great Australian Bight Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/great-australian-bight/ 32 32 Aussie ABC: N is for Nullarbor https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/aussie-abc-n-is-for-nullarbor/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/aussie-abc-n-is-for-nullarbor/#comments Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:06:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=44 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I was 4 – nearly 5! – the first time I crossed the Nullarbor. Christmas day, and we were on the Indian Pacific* heading for Adelaide. We’d spent Christmas eve in a pub somewhere in rough as guts Western Australian gold-mining town Kalgoorlie, but I don’t remember that.  Maybe I had blanked it out … Many years later, I made[...]

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The Great Australian Bight, Eucla, Western Australia
Love at First Bight … 1st land-level view of the Great Australian Bight, Eucla, Western Australia

I was 4 – nearly 5! – the first time I crossed the Nullarbor. Christmas day, and we were on the Indian Pacific* heading for Adelaide. We’d spent Christmas eve in a pub somewhere in rough as guts Western Australian gold-mining town Kalgoorlie, but I don’t remember that.  Maybe I had blanked it out …

Many years later, I made my second Nullarbor crossing, this time as an adult by car along the Eyre Highway. And while it was hot, dry and dusty with a killer sand-laden wind fresh from the furnaces of hell, I couldn’t suppress the frisson of excitement that travelling this iconic landscape gave me.

Nullarbor's Western Edge
Nullarbor’s Western Edge – Through the Windscreen …

Because the Eyre Highway’s 1660 km length**, crossing two monster states, three time zones and the world’s largest limestone karst shelf covering 200,000 km²makes a Nullarbor crossing the ultimate Australian rite-of-passage road trip!

The Nullarbor is WAY more than just a long, dusty drive from A to B.

With unique Australian AND World Exclusives jostling for position amidst magnificent coastal scenery, remote roadhouses and the opportunity to be truly alone, who WOULDN’T want to experience the wonders of the treeless (Null = none; arbor = tree) plain?

BUT … if you’re having trouble picturing how a Nullarbor crossing – perhaps the ultimate Australian travel adventure – is a good thing, here’s 6 trip-teaser things to see and do on the Nullarbor Plain so you can see what you’re missing!!

 1 The Golf:

Brumby's Run on the Nullarbor Golf Course
Brumby’s Run on the Nullarbor Golf Course

OK, you’re on the Nullarbor on (arguably) Australia’s greatest road trip and I’m talking GOLF??

Yes.

Even if – like me – you’re NOT a golfer, you’ll surely want to add a World Exclusive like World’s LONGEST golf course to your repertoire, right??

Nullarbor Links stretches 1365 km (848 miles) over 18 holes from the ‘CY O’Connor’ and ‘Golden Mile’ holes in Kalgoorlie to ‘Denial Bay’ and ‘Oyster Beds’ at Ceduna with 14 other aptly named holes – think ‘Skylab’ at Balladonia, ‘Nullarbor Nymph’ at Eucla and ‘Dingo’s Den’ at the Nullarbor Roadhouse – along the way. And you don’t have to lug a whole lot of (to me) superfluous golfing gear around either! Hire clubs at each hole!!

Brumby's Run, Madura Pass Roadhouse, Nullarbor
Brumby’s Run, Madura Pass Roadhouse, Nullarbor

MORE about Nullarbor Links!

2 The Bight:

Once across the border into South Australia, the highway skirts the Bunda cliffs with their white base of Wilson Bluff Limestone.

A dramatic edge to the Great Australian Bight – that 1160 km long mouthful shaped chunk that eats into Southern Australia – the impressive 200 km of unbroken cliffs is part of the longest sea-cliff line in the world.

The Bunda Cliffs and Bight, Eyre Highway, South Australia
The Bunda Cliffs and Bight, Eyre Highway, South Australia

From here, there’s NOTHING between you and Antarctica except what we Aussies call the Great Southern Ocean. To the rest of you, it’s just part of the Indian Ocean.

MORE about Great Australian Bight and Great Australian Bight Marine Park

3 The Whales and other Wildlife:

Between May and October each year, up to 60 Southern Right Whales migrate to this area to breed and calve. One of the best places to sight them is the northernmost tip of the curve of southern coastline, imaginatively called Head of Bight!

Whales at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whales at Head of Bight, South Australia

Get below the cliff line on the Great Australian Bight Marine Park’s viewing platform that puts you as close to the whales as you can get without getting wet! But don’t just drop in like we did – break your journey at the nearby Nullarbor Roadhouse so you can spend all the time you want whale watching.

If whales aren’t your thing, birdwatch at the Eyre Bird Observatory – Nullarbor Quail-thrush is only found on the Nullarbor!

Failing that, foolishly driving from dusk onwards will virtually guarantee sightings of wildlife up REAL close …

MORE about Head of Bight’s Whale Watching AND Eyre Bird Observatory

Bunda Cliffs up close, South Australia
Bunda Cliffs up close, South Australia

4 The Exclusives:

A Nullarbor road-trip really is the best way to appreciate Australia’s size and scope as well as some experiences to be had nowhere else in Australia – or the World!

During the trip, experience the longest straight stretch of road in Australia!

Just how long IS 90-mile straight?? Of course … it’s 91.1 miles (or 146.6 km)!!

And if you miss the bight and longest line of sea-cliffs in the world because you’re travelling by train, make up for it by riding the longest straight stretch of railway line in the world – 478 km (297 miles).

90 Mile Straight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
90 Mile Straight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Under the world record breaking limestone karst, worn by the weathering of millenia, lies the world’s longest cave system complete with rockholes and blowholes, including Koonalda Cave and Murrawijinie Caves near the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Eucla Signpost, Western Australia
Eucla Signpost, Western Australia

At 2.5 million acres, Rawlinna station is the biggest sheep station in the world!

Yes, that makes it bigger than quite a number of countries … although the dry sheep equivalent out here is pretty low!

Taking a photo of the big nothing emptiness isn’t too difficult … on roads this long, there’s not a lot of other traffic to get in the way!

5 The History:

Perhaps because of its isolation, harsh climate and unique features, the Nullarbor’s fascinating history can be experienced along the way.

Several settlements and roadhouses are built around the Telegraph line, like Eucla, near the WA/SA border, once the busiest Telegraph Station outside the capital cities when it opened in 1877. Drowning in sand, the ruins can still be accessed by 4WD.

The Eyre Bird Observatory was once an historic Telegraph Station, itself on the site of a watering hole used by Edward John Eyre during his Nullarbor Crossing. Back on the highway, nearby Cocklebiddy was once an Aboriginal mission. Indigenous legend and history is further explored at the Head of Bight Interpretive Centre.

Storm Approaching, Madura Pass, Western Australia
Storm Approaching, Madura Pass, Western Australia

If you can remember back to 1979, spare a thought for Skylab when you reach Balladonia – debris was found at Woorlba Sheep Station 40 km east. A Cultural Heritage Museum in the hotel complex also recreates the area’s history including Aboriginal Dreaming legend and Afghan Cameleers.

Not so Scenic! Nullarbor Rest Stop ...
Not so Scenic! Nullarbor Rest Stop …

To cement YOUR place in history, pick up a Nullarbor Crossing Certificate from the Norseman Tourist Centre OR from the Port Augusta Wadlata Visitor Information Centre – depending on from which end your trip started!!

6 The Nullarbor Nymph:

The story of a blonde white woman living among kangaroos on the Nullarbor Plain was first reported, perhaps unsurprisingly on the day after Xmas, 1971.

After some footage of a woman wearing kangaroo skins was released – did I mention she was half-naked?? – the small town of Eucla (then with a population of 8) on the Western Australian side of the border with South Australia, was swamped by journalists from around the world.

Eucla, Western Australia
If you don’t get to see the real thing … make do with this! Eucla, Western Australia

Sadly, the Nullarbor Nymph was outed as a hoax in 1972, although perhaps she remains a subliminal fantasy for in the ‘best’ Aussie tradition, the story of the nymph has been immortalised in a (you’ll not be surprised to hear low-budget) film.

The BIG Galah, Kimba, South Australia
The BIG Galah, Kimba, South Australia

Most – if not all – travellers won’t get to see the nymph, so will have to content themselves with this Aussie BIG Thing at the Half-way Across Australia mark instead …

MORE about the Nullarbor Nymph AND more about the FILM and Kimba’s BIG Galah!

Just between us, this is only the beginning … there are WAAAAY more than these 6 things to see and do on the Nullarbor!  But I’ll leave finding the rest up to you!!

Interested? Intrigued?? Incited??? THEN … Read MORE:

Last shop for 1000 km, Penong, South Australia
Last shop for 1000 km, Penong, South Australia

ALL the Aussie ABCs:

* Famous Australian train running from Sydney to Perth ie between the Indian and Pacific oceans!!

** From Norseman, Western Australia to Port Augusta, South Australia – with the accepted limits of the Nullarbor Plain being the ~1200 km from Norseman to Ceduna. The actual distance from Perth to Adelaide is 2700 km.

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6 ALMOST Secret TOP Australian National Parks! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/#comments Mon, 11 Mar 2013 21:31:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=63 NEW from RedzAustralia!

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks? I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks! And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project. The question comes up because lots of visitors stop[...]

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NatParks_Infographic_LR

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks?

I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks!

And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project.

The question comes up because lots of visitors stop counting after Uluru-Kata Tjuta, the Great Barrier Reef, Kakadu and the Blue Mountains. But what about the other 500 or so? Over the years, our travels in Australia have taken us to some spectacular National Parks that we’ve often had all to ourselves.

Using Explore Australia’s National Parks will help to narrow the field. And I’m not just saying that because I was lucky to get a complementary copy – check out the infographic at left, then take a little armchair tour of these 6 less well known Australian National Parks and you’ll see what I mean!!

And if this doesn’t whet your appetite for Aussie travel, then NOTHING will!

Let’s head to South Australia first!

1. Great Australian Bight Marine National Park, South Australia

Driving the Nullarbor is the ultimate road trip – part of a 4000 km journey from one side of Australia to the other, its big chunks of nothing broken only by roadhouses, rest stops and ‘roos! And stopping for the obligatory photo of yourself in the middle of a long stretch of empty road with nothing all around …

Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia

But the drive through the Nullarbor Regional Reserve is an adventure in itself with several world exclusives, including Nullarbor Links, the world’s longest golf course; the Nullarbor itself, world’s longest, flattest limetone formation; and the Bunda cliffs – longest unbroken stretch of cliffs without a natural harbour in the world.

Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia
Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia

For those unimpressed by such things, the Great Australian Bight – that big concave bit along the bottom of the continent – is a world reknowned Southern Right Whale nursery and migration path.

And on a good day – May to October – literally dozens of whales and calves can be spotted up and down the coast from the Head of Bight viewing platforms.

Such a spectacle, in fact, that I almost didn’t notice the scenic public toilet!

Read MORE: Whale Watching at Head of Bight

2. Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

For a complete change of pace, Victoria’s Mallee country is a surprise to those who thought the Outback was confined to Australia’s more central parts.

Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

Only 450 km north-west of Melbourne, visit Wyperfeld’s eastern section from nearby Hopetoun or Rainbow, but for a real outback experience camp in one of the park’s two campgrounds and explore the park on foot.

Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

With walking trails to suit all levels of fitness, the park is part of a complex lake system and is a known habitat for the endangered Mallee fowl.

During our May 2012 day trip, we saw two other cars. But although lots of others joined us for our second stay on the June long weekend in 2014,  we were on our own again once the weekend was over.

And when you’re done with Wyperfeld, drop in to nearby Patchewollock for the BIG Mallee fowl!

Read MORE: Patchewollock and Hopetoun 

3. Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

The poor relation of Exmouth’s two parks, Cape Range is often overshadowed by the world famous Whale Sharks of Ningaloo Reef. And while these Western Australian Coral Coast offshore attractions are undeniably spectacular, Cape Range was so intriguing on our August 2012 visit, we saved Ningaloo for next time.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

After escaping our campsite between the twin delights of the amenities block and the backpacker accomodation, Yardie Creek Gorge along the western side of the range running down the middle of Northwest Cape was a welcome surprise.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

It’s not every day you get to see a classic Outback Gorge with a river running into the ocean!

The eastern side of the range was even more dramatic. A very rough, narrow, winding and steep drive along the aptly named Charles Knife Road revealed more rugged Outback scenery with staggering views across to the ocean.

And in the height of tourist season, with caravan parks and campgrounds full to bursting, we lucked out with only a couple of other vehicles!

Although one contained quite possibly the only sarong-wearing Frenchman in the world …

Read MORE: Exploring Cape Range National Park

Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

4. Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

Described to us as the ‘mini Bungle Bungles’ in a nod to one of Western Australia’s big ticket items, the Northern Territory’s Keep River National Park actually abuts the WA border. And makes a mockery of the 1½ hour time difference! Although we left Kununurra early, by the time we’d visited the Ranger station and nearby Cockatoo Lagoon, then driven to the 7km Jarnem Loop walk trailhead, the morning had all but gone.

Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

No matter.

This spectacular walk through bizarre rock formations to the 360ºlookout, then down through a lightly wooded valley past more rock formations to an Aboriginal rock shelter complete with paintings was virtually people free!

White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park
White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park

Add a lifer – White-quilled Rock-pigeon – for twitcher Pilchard and I see a return to this remote Top End park in our future …

I can only imagine the views at sunset and sunrise – but one day we’ll stay in one of the campgrounds for a few days and find out!

And when one day we visit the real Bungle Bungles, we’ll see how it got it’s nickname.

5. Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

Jolting along the rough road from remote opal mining town White Cliffs towards Paroo-Darling National Park’s Peery Lake, we spotted a Winnebago parked in the middle of the road. Stopping to make sure the owners were OK, we asked where they’d come from. The middle aged couple exchanged guilty glances and seemed strangely reluctant to tell us.

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales

‘You’re not Park rangers, are you?’, she finally asked. Then the penny dropped! They’d illegally stayed at the lake overnight.

‘It’s not really camping,’ she continued. ‘We’re fully self-contained!’

And that was our introduction to both Paroo-Darling National Park and the new definitions of ‘camping’.

Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales
Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

The park is a string of seven old pastoral leases, several of which form one of the only reserves on the Darling River floodplain.

The park’s only campground – the Coach and Horses – is in this section, more easily reached from Wilcannia.

In the northern sections, along the Paroo River Overflow before it meets the Darling near Wilcannia. In this part of the park, the massive bulk of Lake Peery, full during our 2010 visit, supports abundant birdlife but when dry its unique mound springs become visible.

Read MORE: White Cliffs, New South Wales

6. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland

Back in 1998 on our first and only visit, Queensland’s Lawn Hill was considered a remote destination with the riverbanks at closest town Gregory Downs a makeshift stopover campsite before the rigours of 100 km of bulldust and gravel.

Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

Nowadays, nearly 15 years later, it’s still a long, hard 100 km of unsealed road. With either mud or dust, depending on the time of year.

But it’s still one of the most spectacularly memorable National Parks in Australia, an Outback oasis with a soaring red rocky gorge system, clear water and staggering scenery. The canoe trip from the camping area up the gorge, then over the portage point into the higher gorge is an amazing experience. Get close to the wildlife too! Swim with the giant carp, spot freshwater crocodiles lurking in the gorges – and watch out for snakes in the water! My first instinct was to paddle like hell when my oar nearly hit a snake in the water; but Pilchard wanted to paddle back to see what he’d missed.

Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

I guess that’s the essential difference between us!

Back at the campground’s cold showers, the high limestone content in the water gave a whole new meaning to ‘sculpted hairdo’ …

Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

While travelling to these National Parks may take a little longer, the trip is well worth the extravaganza of stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and extraordinary experiences you’ll encounter.

If YOU would like to explore Australia’s National Parks further, Explore Australia’s Explore Australia’s National Parks would make a GREAT investment in your Aussie travel!

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