‘There it is,’ shouted Pilchard, pointing towards the bank. I looked, but there was only an old tyre on the edge of the water nestled in the grass. Typical bloke. All excited about nothing. The boat moved closer to the river banks.

‘Where?’ I whined as cameras clicked all around me. Damn! If everyone else could see a monster crocodile, why couldn’t I? The boat edged even closer, heading right for the tyre on the grass.

‘There! There!’ Pilchard stabbed the air in a pointing frenzy. ‘If you can’t see it now, I can’t help you,’ he eventually shrugged, lifting his binoculars.

‘All I can see is that old tyre,’ I said, readying my camera anyway.

‘Look again! That’s NOT a tyre,’ Pilchard laughed as it finally clicked. And so did my camera. Better late than never, huh?

Half an hour later I’d seen more crocodiles than in the rest of my whole life AND Pilchards put together.

A lot of the bigger ones had names. Lord Lizard. Whitey. Old Broken Jaw.

Weirdly, there weren’t any called Freakin’ Scary.

There should have been.

As six scary metres (nearly 20 feet) of leather-coated muscle, razor sharp teeth and pre-historic cunning slid silently into the current swirling around our cruise boat on the Victoria River we waited for those cold yellow eyes to appear in the brownish water downstream.

They didn’t.

If he (yes, I’ve assumed this macho melange of features to be male) surfaced directly under us, it SO wouldn’t be a good time to find out the purpose-built M.V Fleetwing wasn’t croc-proof! But that was just one of the hazards of taking a tour into the wilderness along the Northern Territory’s Victoria River – arguably Australia’s wildest.

The high crocodile count so far wasn’t doing anything to disprove it.

And neither was the scenery. As we raced 35 km (~22 miles) down the river towards our date with a Northern Territory sunset, the late afternoon glow was already lighting up the cliffs and escarpments of the wild and remote Yambarrin Ranges above the rivers broad, brown expanse.

Yes, brown. Just perfect for a crocodile to disappear in …

But the Victoria River Sunset Cruise isn’t just about crocodiles. Or sunset. From the Croc Stock Shop, owned and run by locals Meredith and Neville Fogarty, the 1971 bus took a roundabout route to the jetty at Big Horse Creek via some of the historic points of interest in and around Timber Creek.

So if the Suicide Tree, Timber Creek Musuem, Gregory’s Tree, Policeman’s Point, Live Croc feeding at the caravan park and the Bradshaw Field Training Area’s Bridge to Nowhere – with its vast array of signs warning of the horrible things that could, and WOULD happen to trespassers – sound intriguing to you, you’ll know why we stayed an extra day to explore. And if you stay tuned to this blog, you’ll eventually find out all about them AND get to read about our nightmare camper from hell story!

But I digress …

The Victoria River doesn’t discriminate between Australia’s two crocodile species, and neither do I. They’re BOTH scary – although the

smaller freshwater croc isn’t known for its murderous tendencies towards humans. So despite the distractions of the superb Top End dry season scenery, I kept my eyes on the water.

As we passed the gravel islands and sandbanks mid-river, the massive saltwater crocodiles we’d seen earlier gave way to the smaller freshies.

Was it a coincidence that the bird life increased, with Jabiru (actual name Black-necked Stork), White-bellied Sea Eagles, Whistling Kites – and the strange sight of an Australasian Bustard in full flight?

The croc sightings of any variety dropped off altogether as we drew level with the mid-river pontoon – another purpose-built structure surrounded by a cage of the extra-strength wire mesh that (we hoped) made it croc-proof. But this, and the superb array of hot and cold nibbles and drinks weren’t the only things to make this sunset memorable.

What do you do when nature calls and you’re in the middle of the wildest – and probably most crocodile-infested – river in Australia?

You visit the pontoon loo – scenic enough to deserve its own post AND one of the coveted spots in my book – of course!

As we drank in our drinks, inhaled the superb array of hot and cold snacks and drank in the awesome scenery, the sun set in a blaze of gold against the clear sky, it’s final rays silhouetting the dramatic escarpment reflected in the river below. A houseboat floated over by the river banks and wallabies grazed on the grassy river flats downstream.

Magical. Memorable. Magnificent.

‘Wouldn’t it be great if a crocodile took one of those wallabies?’ a fellow passenger, drink in hand, stage-whispered to her husband, breaking the hushed silence.

Silly me.

Of COURSE that’s just what a panorama like the one above needed to bring it alive! Seeing a defenceless animal massacred by a crocodile right in front of us against that awesome backdrop of setting sun, ragged mountains and broad river would be the perfect way to round out the most sensational sunset experience ever. Wouldn’t it?!?!

NOT!

I guess I just don’t have that bloodthirsty gene.

Anyway, everyone knows the Victoria River crocs are too well fed! Taking the cattle from the local stations as they graze the river banks is a cinch. And stealing barramundi straight off the line if the fisherfolk are too slow to bring them in is too easy.

Who needs a wallaby-hors-d’oeuvre anyway?

All too soon our time was up and we reluctantly finished up the snacks, left the loo behind and the wallabies intact and jetted back down the river with the sun’s last rays at our backs as the moon rose ahead.

If I hadn’t been too busy taking photos of the incredible scenery, I may have seen another crocodile – or two or three.

But by then I didn’t care.

Want your own croc experience but don’t have any transport?  Start here with the best flights!

Fast Facts:

What: The Victoria River Cruise 3½ hour, 70 km round trip Sunset Wilderness Cruise

Where: Timber Creek, 285 km SW from Katherine along the Victoria Highway, Northern Territory

When: Daily from April to September (see website for exact dates)

Cost: $95 per adult, $50 per child (as at 13/2/15)

How to get there: Self-drive to Timber Creek from Darwin or Katherine from the east; Kununurra from the west. Or get up north REAL quick by checking out these cheap flights!

Want MORE?

• Victoria River Cruise via Timber Creek, Northern Territory
• Victoria River Roadhouse, Northern Territory
• RedzAustralia Crocodile Hot Spots
• MORE Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

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Disclosure: Pilchard and I booked and paid full price for our Victoria River Sunset cruise and did not ask for or receive any discounts or concessions.

The post Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Maybe the multiple crocodile sightings did it.

Or the 70 km (~45 miles) cruise from the Timber Creek landing to the middle of nowhere.

Or perhaps the sunset drinks and snacks, taken incongruously in the middle of the crocodile-infested Victoria River were responsible.

Whatever it was, the public amenities on the purpose-built pontoon where we took a break from crocodile spotting to admire the staggering view were most welcome.

And while they’re not really PUBLIC – use of them comes with passage on the excellent Victoria River Cruise run by Timber Creek locals, Neville & Meredith Fogarty – they’re undeniably scenic!

With an added frisson of excitement – and uncertainty – from the crocs that may – or may not – be lurking all around.

After watching a couple of 5-6 metre crocodiles disappear from the riverbank into the water without a trace further upstream, the crocs could be anywhere!

And that included right under our pontoon!!

Praise be for heavy duty steel!!

But after an event-free hiatus aboard the pontoon – that is, if viewing the 360° splendid grandeur of Australia’s wildest river while eating a splendid spread of nibbles washed down with drinks doesn’t count as an ‘event’ – we returned to Timber Creek as the sun set and the moon rose over the river.

With a panorama so heart-stoppingly magnificent the crocs were forgotten!

This spectacular and unique scenic public toilet is one of 60 amazing loos from all around Australia featured in my book “Aussie Loos with Views!”

It’s a pleasure doing business here – and in all the others!  Have I included YOUR favourites?  Grab a copy and see for yourself!

Want MORE?

• Victoria River Cruises
• Timber Creek, Northern Territory
• 7 Crocodile Spotting Hot Spots in the Top End
• Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets

The post Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #29 – Crocodile Cruise Conveniences! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I don’t know what made us decide to stay overnight at the Victoria River Roadhouse as we pulled in for fuel, late on a Northern Territory July morning.

Perhaps we took the Grey Nomad’s experimental driving technique involving an inexpertly executed U-turn directly in front of us without warning as a sign to stay off the roads that day.

Perhaps the imminent full moon threatened the same thing.

Or perhaps the iconic Victoria River Roadhouse, nestled below the wild Victoria River’s magnificent escarpments between Katherine in the Northern Territory and Kununurra in Western Australia just looked too inviting …

Whatever the reason, we soon discovered we’d lucked out with one of the most spectacular campground settings in remote Outback Australia.

And 5 completely unexpected extraordinary experiences that make this remote outpost on the Victoria Highway WAAAY more than just a fuel and food stop.

So … what’s to do? Here’s how WE spent a stay of less than 24 hours at the Roadhouse!

1 Get a photo of … well, EVERYTHING!

From the iconic Roadhouse sign to the wild outback landscape to the moonrise over the escarpment* and sunrise over what is arguably Australia’s wildest river, it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo (although I did my darndest!).

BUT … here’s the catch. You won’t get good pix by spending all your time having happy hour in the campground or drinks at the bar.

Here’s my tip. Do the other things on my list, and the photos will take care of themselves!

2 Admire the landscape from the Escarpment Lookout!!

Heading west up the road and round the corner, a reasonable walking track (with some steep sections) winds up from the valley over the rocks and onto the escarpment.

It’s worth the effort for the staggering views over the Victoria River Valley, and down to the roadhouse and campground, nestled amongst the trees.

The fantastic array of wildflowers** were a pleasant surprise!

And because it’s in the valley between escarpments, the sun on the RED rock enhances the incredible view at virtually any time of the day!

3 Get close to Australia’s Wildest River!!!

If you DO try to get close to the river, don’t get TOO close – crocodiles are common in these parts. And while we didn’t see one on the Roadhouse stretch of the Victoria River, on our crocodile cruise at Timber Creek, a couple of hours west, we saw more crocodiles in a couple of hours than in the rest of both our lives put together!

The height of the old bridge compared to the new gives an indication of how much water flows through the river crossing during the wet season. The many campers who didn’t take the 5 minute stroll down onto the old bridge missed an excellent opportunity for those sunset or sunrise photos where the escarpment GLOWS!

A short drive south along a gravel road down to the river gave a different perspective. On the lookout for the crocodiles infesting the river, we weren’t expecting the buffalo*** that somehow wandered between us and our car …

4 Eat at the Roadhouse Restaurant …

… and have a real multicultural experience!

The pierced Nordic backpacker**** who rattled off her practised spiel as we checked into the excellent and scenic caravan park nestled between escarpment cliffs of the Victoria River Valley was only the first in a string of overseas tourists we encountered during our short stay.

An eclectic mix of staff representing a smattering of other European countries variously served us drinks, took our order, served our meal and cleared our table.

And the other diners weren’t all Grey Nomads on an extended happy hour, either! My shameless eavesdropping picked up at least 10 different accents from both sides of the counter in the small dining room – with Aussies way in the minority.

More fools them!!

5 Walk the Joe Creek Loop

The guidebook ‘suggests’ this walk is moderate grade, but I wasn’t so sure …  a steep, rocky track straight up the escarpment; a narrow path under a soaring cliff; gravel crumbling underfoot.

But the next day at Timber Creek, the one-legged man with crutches***** on our crocodile cruise told us he’d done it the day before and I felt like a big girl. Hardly surprising because I AM a big girl, but you know.

Difficult or no, however, this walk delivers the goods. Red rock, livistona palms, Aboriginal Art, natural amphitheatre glowing RED in the evening light. It even overshadowed the public toilet which sadly, wasn’t quite scenic enough to make the cut …

And if I can do it, and a one-legged man with crutches can do it, what’s YOUR excuse?!

This remote outpost in the Aussie Outback is the real deal. But like so many Outback places, the only way to see it is to stop and explore. Looking back, it’s hard to believe we spent less than 24 hours there – but I see at least one more 24 hour stopover in my future …

* I can’t guarantee a moonrise for YOUR visit!

** Nor can I guarantee wildflowers!

*** Wild buffalo might not appear!

**** And Nordic backpackers might not turn up for YOUR visit!

***** And I certainly can’t guarantee a one-legged man with crutches!!

Want more information?

• Victoria River Roadhouse
• Victoria River Region
• Northern Territory
• MORE Photos of the Victoria River Region on Flickr

Previous Post:  Mind over Madness … Joffre Falls, Karijini

NEXT Post:  Scenic Public Loo #29 – The Crocodile Cruise Conveniences

The post The 5-Experiences-in-24-hours Victoria River Roadhouse Action Plan! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Crocodiles are a weird combination of Aussie ‘Big Thing’ and perilous prehistoric predator. Maybe our fascination with crocodiles in Australia is what makes this my most viewed post of all time*.

Or maybe it’s because of the awesome photos and superlative writing … read on, and decide for yourself

But before you do, PLEASE NOTE this WARNING:

Crocodiles are VERY dangerous and can be found almost anywhere in the Top End – not just in the places I mention below, and certainly NOT just where there are warning sgns.  Large crocodiles have been found a LONG way from the sea, and in many smaller rivers and streams. SO … you MUST be crocodile aware WHEREVER you go – don’t assume it’s safe just because there’s no sign, or no one has warned you.  Assume they are EVERYWHERE in the Top End – even if you can’t see them.

Of course, the World’s Biggest Crocodile replica in Normanton, Queensland isn’t a ‘Big Thing’ ie several times larger than the real deal. It’s actually a life-size replica of the biggest crocodile ever ‘taken’ (read:  ‘shot’) by croc hunter turned croc supporter Krystina Pawloski in 1957.Now known as ‘Krys’, the 8.63 metre long (28′ 4″) monster croc is bigger than JAWS, and it’s the biggest known specimen in the world.

The golden age blood sport of hunting crocodiles in Australia ended when crocodiles became protected in the early 1970’s. But crocodile hunting still takes place downunder – as long as your weapon of choice is a camera!

Although that won’t make any difference to the cunning saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus – or ‘Saltie’) who can wait for days to ensnare its prey, and once its victim is in the ‘death roll’, there’s little chance of escape.

And just to make things more confusing, it doesn’t always hang out in salt water, either!

While less aggressive, Australia’s only other crocodile species, the Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni – or ‘Freshie’) has been known to attack, although not fatally.

But hey! Who wants to be the first?!

So where’s the best places to hunt for those elusive ‘live’ Crocodiles in Australia photos? Try my 7 Aussie Top End Crocodile Hot Spots for ALMOST guaranteed sightings!!

1. Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham,Western Australia:

But what’s that lurking beneath its benign surface?

The video at the top of the post shows why it’s not a good idea to stray from the boardwalk.

But it’s an even worse idea to venture onto the banks of this worrisome wetland when this little beauty is sunning himself!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the billabong banks on the far side regularly – crocs can appear without warning!

2. Daintree River, Daintree, Far North Queensland

A known crocodile hotspot, crocodile hunter wannabees can choose an assisted croc sighting via any number of river cruises. Daintree River Wild Watch was our choice for its birdwatching credentials, but we also got to see a saltwater crocodile close up whilst on the cruise.

Our first unassisted sighting came after the cruise as we drove up the road and spotted a large saltie sunning himself on a sandbank. He wasn’t there when we passed that same sandbank on our cruise about 30 minutes before!

The Daintree River doesn’t discriminate between salties and freshies – they’re both here in abundance!

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many Daintree River crocodile cruises can’t be wrong! Sightings are virtually guaranteed on a river cruise, and are not uncommon elsewhere.

3. Adelaide River via Darwin, Northern Territory:

The jury’s out on whether a sighting of a Performing Crocodile (ie a croc jumping for its supper) actually counts as crocodile hunting.

It’s the saurian equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel BUT if you can’t see them any other way, then knock yourself out!!

Choose one of the many available ‘Jumping Croc’ cruises – and hope like hell the boat doesn’t tip over as all the tourists rush to the same side whenever a crocodile appears …

Croc Hunter Tip:

This doesn’t really count as ‘hunting’ – but you WILL see crocodiles!!

4. Lake Argyle, via Kununurra, Western Australia:

The spectacular and otherworldly landscape of Australia’s largest lake will keep budding photographers busy for hours. One of the most magnificent spots in the country, the watery landscape is so panoramic, the wildlife takes second place.

Below the dam wall, these cold-blooded (in more ways than one) freshwater crocodiles recover from the cool night temperatures by taking in some sun. And while the morning cruise isn’t specifically about crocodile hunting, there are plenty around the banks and in the water.

Which could make the annual 10- and 20 km swimming races in the lake rather interesting …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the far bank below the dam wall. And take that 2 hour cruise – even if you don’t see a crocodile, it’s worth it just for the scenery!!

For more entertainment than is good for you, observe the anglers trying to land a big barramundi at this crocodile infested tidal river crossing into Arnhem Land. It’s also fun watching vehicles crossing the causeway as the tide comes in.

And it’s not called the East Alligator River for nothing!

Watching someone actually being taken by a crocodile would give me nightmares for a long, long time.

So watching a tinnie** full of drunken fisherman, one precariously perched on the nose of the craft as it drifted ever closer to a large crocodile they hadn’t seen, completely oblivious to the warning shouts from observers on the river bank, was a mesmerizing moment I hope never to experience again.

Luckily for them, the croc slid into the water and disappeared – they never even saw it.

As the tide came in, more crocodiles appeared downstream – not that the anglers knee-deep in water seemed to care …

But if you want your croc viewings with a bit less drama, try a Kakadu Yellow Water Cruise!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Crocodiles abound in Kakadu National Park. See them at Cahill’s Crossing or on a cruise – but don’t make out like crocodile bait!

6. Windjana Gorge, via Gibb River Road, Western Australia:

 

No, those aren’t logs in the water … Windjana Gorge, WA

Frustrated crocodile hunters who’ve dipped out*** on crocs at other hot spots will not be disappointed here, unless they’re on a lifelong losing streak. If that’s the case (and even if it isn’t), think twice about heading for Windjana unless you’re keen on experiencing clouds of red dust, brain-hammering corrugated roads, tyre-shredding rocks and other generally adverse driving conditions en route to this remote spot.

Once there, if you can tear your eyes away from the gob-smackingly awesome scenery, you’ll be reaching for the crocodile repellent – yes, there really are that many!

All freshies, of course!! But happily, that makes getting a tad closer for those souvenir photos just that little bit easier!

Back down the road in Derby, crocs are regularly seen around the mangroves, although I have no photographic evidence of the large crocodile we spotted swimming in King Sound near the jetty …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Take the track into the gorge and keep your eyes on the water and sandbanks. Some would go so far as to dub this a ‘sure thing’ sighting spot!

7. Timber Creek, Northern Territory:

In the creek behind the Circle F Caravan Park campground, there’s a daily feeding session attracting any or all of the 12 freshwater crocodiles living in the creek.

They’re not always interested, but the enticement of a free snack costing virtually no energy is generally too much of a temptation to resist!

Careful observers may notice crocodiles resting on the banks of the creek – while they’re *only* freshies, my tip for the day is to let sleeping crocs lie.

But the nearby Victoria River’s self-nomination as Australia’s last great wild river may well be true, if the number of crocodile sightings is anything to go by.

The best way to see them is in a croc-proof purpose built river cruiser with a context-setting tour of Timber Creek at one end and sunset drinks and snacks on a float in the middle of the river at the other!

A Victoria River Cruise delivers on multiple crocodile sightings as well, with local Neville Fogarty identifying the ‘local’ crocs by name and reputation!

As we passed the white croc, old ‘Broken-jaw’ and the 5+ metre long Lord Lizard who disappeared without a trace into the water beneath the cruiser, Neville told us the cattle station we were passing lost 200+ cattle to crocodiles each year.

Somehow, I don’t think they’d mind a change in diet if anyone was foolish enough to stray  too close to the water …

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many sightings of both Saltwater and Freshwater crocodiles, you won’t know where to look first. But be warned – these ones are BIG!!

Disclaimer: Wild crocodiles are unpredictable, so of course I can’t guarantee you’ll see crocodiles in Australia where I have! But stay ‘croc-alert’ and you may see them where you’re least expecting it.

Like the time we watched in horrified disbelief as two crocodiles fought over a dead cow floating downstream past our campsite on the Northern Territory’s Mary River – but that’s another story!!

Want MORE?

 

• World’s Biggest Crocodile
• Australian Saltwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus)
• Australian Freshwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus johnsoni)
• Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River!

* OK, since you asked nicely, the 2nd most viewed post of all time is 7 Days between Adelaide and Darwin

** tinnie = small aluminium fishing boat  There’s no accounting for taste!

***  ‘Dipped Out’ = Aussie expression meaning failed, or not done, or didn’t happen

The post 7 Crocodile Hot Spots in Australia’s Top End appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.