Wyndham Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/wyndham/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 07:14:29 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Wyndham Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/wyndham/ 32 32 FIVE Reasons why Wyndham is a TOP Aussie Town! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/05/five-reasons-why-wyndham-is-a-top-aussie-town/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/05/five-reasons-why-wyndham-is-a-top-aussie-town/#comments Sat, 23 May 2015 11:13:14 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3655 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I’d only been in Wyndham a couple of hours, but I was liking it already. First up was the 20 metre (65.6 ft), grinning crocodile at the town’s entrance – the most creative way to use up 5.5 km (3.4 miles) of steel rods, 50 kg (110 lb) of welding rods, 10 rolls of bird mesh and 6 cubic metres[...]

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Sunset from the Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia
Sunset from the Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia

I’d only been in Wyndham a couple of hours, but I was liking it already.

First up was the 20 metre (65.6 ft), grinning crocodile at the town’s entrance – the most creative way to use up 5.5 km (3.4 miles) of steel rods, 50 kg (110 lb) of welding rods, 10 rolls of bird mesh and 6 cubic metres (212 cubic feet) of concrete I’d ever seen.

The Happy Croc, Wyndham
The Happy Croc, Wyndham

The croc was looking pretty good for a 28 year-old!

Quite a bit older, the largest Boab Tree in captivity in Australia – 25 metres (82 feet) around its widest point – lurked behind its neat fence just a short walk from our cosy campsite at the Three Mile Caravan Park. It didn’t appear to be planning a break-out any time soon – but don’t take my word for it; I’m one of the majority of Australians untrained in in the fine art of Boab-wrangling …

And like the thrill-seeker I am, I got a kick out of being in Western Australia’s northernmost town at the end of the Great Northern Highway!

Kimberley Scenery, via Wyndham, Western Australia
Kimberley Scenery, via Wyndham, Western Australia

But alluring though these drawcards were, they’re not what kept us in Wyndham for several days. Here’s FIVE MORE of the attractions that make Wyndham a TOP Aussie town!

1 The Landscape

Wyndham’s bizarre and varied landscape has sweeping tidal mud flats covered with mangroves and washed by some of Australia’s highest tides. The coastline is blurred by the massive tides so causeways linking old and new parts of the town ensure year-round accessibility.

Salt and Sky, Wyndham
Salt and Sky, Wyndham

The massive Cambridge Gulf – final destination for five Kimberley rivers – flows out into the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf near Western Australia’s northernmost tip.

Mud Flat Patterns, Wyndham
Mud Flat Patterns, Wyndham

The impressive sandstone escarpments of the Cockburn Range between Wyndham and the Gibb River Road are visible along the King River Road.

And the jewel in the crown, towering 330 metres (~1082 ft) above the Gulf and the town, is the Bastion, part of the Daharwi Range and named by explorer Philip Parker King in 1819.

Cambridge Gulf Landscape, Wyndham
Cambridge Gulf Landscape, Wyndham

2 The History

Never heard of Aussie explorer Philip Parker King? That’s probably because his exploratory trips were disaster-free, unlike those of, say, Burke and Wills – who EVERYBODY’S heard of!! I rest my case.

And I digress …

Old Label from Wyndham Meatworks
Old Label from Wyndham Meatworks

Established in the 1880’s, the Port of Wyndham was established to support the Halls Creek gold rush, and the East Kimberley pastoralists. In 1919 the Wyndham Meatworks was completed, operating until 1986.

Nowadays, the port continues to service the live cattle export and mining industries, and the Ord River Project.

Of course there’s a LOT more to the town’s colonial history than that – and the best place to discover it is at the Wyndham Museum in the old Courthouse. That’s where I found out about the crocodile hunting; wreck of the MV Koolama during World War II (the remains are nearby in the Gulf); a wartime attack on the airfield; the ‘Pussycat’ taxi service; Chinese market gardeners; visits from famous aviators and so on.

Evidence of Crocodiles! Wyndham Museum
Evidence of Crocodiles! Wyndham Museum

Other historic sites are nearby, like historic buildings and sites at the Old Wyndham Port, the Prison Tree and Singh’s Gardens along the King River Road; and Telegraph Hill near Marlgu Billabong on the back road to Wyndham.

But to experience a small part of the region’s Indigenous history, take a look at the petroglyphs near Moochalabra Dam (town water supply) along the King River Road.

Petroglyphs, via Wyndham
Petroglyphs, via Wyndham

3 Birding and Parrys Lagoon Nature Reserve

After clocking over 60 bird species and several crocodiles in two separate visits to Marlgu Billabong, part of the Parry Lagoons Nature reserve and oasis in the middle of a grassy plain not far from Wyndham, I was experienced enough to become an unofficial ‘tour guide’.

Birds - and Crocodile! Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham
Birds – and Crocodile! Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham

I didn’t have anything else to do while the REAL birdos – Pilchard and his new friend-with-a-telescope from the caravan park – were still arguing over whether that odd looking bird I’d pointed out to them what seemed like hours before was actually a rare sighting of Oriental Reed Warbler or something more ordinary.

But although the mostly overseas tourists seemed quite happy to have me point out the crocodiles and assorted Aussie bird life, no one actually offered me any money! Maybe they were just being polite?!

Read more about my Marlgu Billabong adventures HERE!

Brolgas on the King River Road, via Wyndham
Brolgas on the King River Road, via Wyndham

It’ll be unsurprising to any keen birdo that Pilchard’s real target species in Wyndham was the rare Gouldian Finch. They’d apparently been seen at the campground waterhole a couple of days before so we staked it out whenever we weren’t doing anything else. But a few days later a new arrival was told the exact same thing!

Maybe it’s just a way to keep the twitchers in town?

Our next hot tip was to hang out at the Shire Offices when the sprinklers are on – but despite our best (and most tedious) efforts, Gouldian Finch remained elusive.

I’m kinda glad. That means I won’t have any arguments from Pilchard for a return visit.

Grotto Abstract
Grotto Abstract, Wyndham, Western Australia

4 The Grotto

140 steps down the sheer walls of a natural amphitheatre and I was on a direct descent into Middle Earth. At the base lies the Grotto – reportedly 122 metres (400 feet) deep.

Rocks and Vines at the Grotto
Rocks and Vines at the Grotto

I SO admire the nerve of whoever hung the rope swing from its precarious position high above the swimming hole, but not enough to actually test it out.

Not because I’m a total coward – but because my foot went numb with cold when I dipped it into the pool and the thought of immersing my whole body into water that icy seemed like the worst sort of torture.

Read more about my Adventure at the Grotto HERE!

5 True Blue Two Loo View!

Although most visitors ascend the Bastion to the Five Rivers Lookout atop the peak at sunset, the view overlooking Cambridge Gulf and surrounds is staggering at any time of day.

And ‘Five Rivers Lookout’ isn’t just a randomly inaccurate name – there really ARE Five Rivers visible from the vantage point if you know where to look.

Five Rivers Lookout by Day, Wyndham
Five Rivers Lookout by Day, Wyndham

The final destination for the King, Ord, Durack, Forrest and Pentecost rivers is right here in the Cambridge Gulf where there’s enough water to support numerous Crocodiles – and Barramundi, making this a top fishing spot as well as a danger zone!

I can only imagine what it’s like during the wet season.

Iron Ore at Wyndham Port, Western Australia
Iron Ore at Wyndham Port, Western Australia

But despite the awe-inspiring vista of what is arguably one of Australia’s finest lookouts, my mind remained firmly in the gutter and turned to toilets. One up the top near the car park. And one down below by the jetty. SO good, I just HAD to put it into my book Aussie Loos with Views!

Read more about the Five Rivers Lookout HERE!

Tourist information suggests taking a day trip to Wyndham from Kununurra, 100 km (62 miles) to the east. But as we reluctantly left Wyndham after 4 days with a list of enough things to ensure a return visit, I wondered if the day-trippers actually saw what I’d seen.

Wyndham Jetty, with the Bastion in the background
Wyndham Jetty, with the Bastion (5 Rivers Lookout on top) in the background

And that’s a TOP Aussie town with a wealth of attractions that’ll bring me back again!

Wyndham Fast Facts:

Where: Wyndham is in North-Western Australia’s East Kimberley on the Cambridge Gulf. Click HERE for a map!

When: Temperatures are generally cooler during the Dry Season from April to October.

How to get there: Wyndham is 100 km (~62 miles) by road from nearest town, Kununurra on fully sealed roads on the Great Northern Highway. Fly to, or drive from Kununurra, Darwin or Broome.

Kimberley Transport, via Wyndham
Kimberley Transport, via Wyndham

What to do: Wyndham is at the end of the Great Northern Highway. Use it as a base to explore this corner of the Kimberley with day trips to Marlgu Billabong, the Grotto, the King River Road; or as a starting point to visit Kalumburu; or connect with the Gibb River Road. Discover the history, wildlife and landscape with local attractions, or go fishing in the Gulf.

Fuzzy the Donkey, Wyndham
Fuzzy the Donkey in the campground, Wyndham

Want MORE?

PS … if all that’s not enough for you, then maybe Fuzzy – a tame donkey who scavenges through the Three Mile Caravan Park – might just tip the scales 😀

 


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Marlgu Billabong: Australia’s Wild West! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/04/marlgu-billabong/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/04/marlgu-billabong/#comments Thu, 04 Apr 2013 01:43:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=58 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The lyrics of Aussie folk ballad Waltzing Matilda* are responsible for most people’s entire knowledge of billabongs**.  So visiting a real one – like Marlgu Billabong – raises certain expectations. Visiting a real Billabong That’s why I found the unexpected lack of swagmen, coolibah trees, jolly jumbucks and troopers at the Marlgu Billabong, oasis in the Kimberley west of Kununurra,[...]

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Birds at Marlgu Billabong
Just a few of the Birds at Marlgu Billabong

The lyrics of Aussie folk ballad Waltzing Matilda* are responsible for most people’s entire knowledge of billabongs**.  So visiting a real one – like Marlgu Billabong – raises certain expectations.

Visiting a real Billabong

That’s why I found the unexpected lack of swagmen, coolibah trees, jolly jumbucks and troopers at the Marlgu Billabong, oasis in the Kimberley west of Kununurra, a staggering disappointment.

But we didn’t have to wait long to find out why!

The two-sentence teaser from the Glove Box Guide to the East Kimberley didn’t fully capture the essence of Marlgu Billabong or prepare us for its many attractions.

A boardwalk and shaded bird hide have been constructed over a billabong within the Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. A birdwatcher’s paradise.

Yes, it was technically accurate.  But no, it didn’t describe the reality.

The extensive Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham & Kununurra, Western Australia
The extensive Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham & Kununurra, Western Australia

Birds at Marlgu Billabong

The description would – and did – capture a twitcher’s attention. “Marlgu” is an Aboriginal word meaning “wild bird”, after all. But it wasn’t going to reel in the crowds that Marlgu Billabong, an unexpected jewel-like Outback oasis, deserves.

En Route to Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia
En Route to Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia

And the roads in weren’t doing it any favours either.

But then, it’s probably just as well. Massive crowds at Marlgu Billabong would almost certainly affect the quality of an experience dependent on listening, observing and patience. Even though bigger crowds would significantly enhance my own secret indulgence – people watching!

Pas de Deux: Green Pygmy Geese at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia
Pas de Deux: Green Pygmy Geese at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

And watching the visitors who think Marlgu Billabong is an amusement park with performing animals just waiting for their pix to be uploaded onto a random strangers FaceBook page are funniest of all. Because the creatures who frequent this remote and sometimes inaccessible spot are wild, unpredictable and don’t seem to have the tourist experience at the top of their agenda!

A quiet observer is usually rewarded, and although it’s possible to come here and NOT see anything, that didn’t happen to us!

Despite the crowds!

Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia
Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

Where is it?

Marlgu Billabong is on the alternative back route (read ‘rough 4WD track’) from Kununurra to Wyndham.  The Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve of which the billabong is a part, is a RAMSAR*** wetland of international significance as it’s on the shorebird migration route.

Magpie Geese in flight above Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Magpie Geese in flight above Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

Although shorebirds are the last thing you’d expect to see after driving through the magnificently dry and arid East Kimberley landscape en route to the Billabong.

The parched dry season landscape doesn’t look as if it’s EVER been wet, let alone wet enough to support a large and thriving permanent waterhole.

Crocodiles!

But it isn’t just used by the 60+ bird species we observed on our two visits (totalling 3-4 hours).  The birds didn’t seem worried by the ever-present – and quite large – crocodiles that delighted the random selection of tourists who actually saw them.

Birds and Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong
The Birds ignore the Crocodile

Maybe because the big crocs rarely bother with such small prey.  The energy burned by catching them is far greater than the small amount replaced by eating them!

They’re after larger prey. Like swagmen and jumbucks.

And maybe even tourists!

Killer photographs aside, witnessing direct interaction between the crocodiles and the bird life wouldn’t have been pleasant. Thankfully, despite the aggression imbalance, the scene remained peaceful and serene.

Our caravan park neighbour also seemed happy enough not to be involved in a direct human/croc interaction, albeit for different reasons. Upon hearing he was to travel northern Australia in a campervan, his Swiss friends were apparently convinced he’d fall victim to a crocodile attack.

‘So I CAN’T be taken by a crocodile, you see,’ he explained. ‘I’d never live it down!’

Telegraph Hill, Parrys Lagoon Nature Reserve via Wyndham, Western Australia
Telegraph Hill, Parrys Lagoon Nature Reserve via Wyndham, Western Australia

What to expect at the waterhole

A random selection of vehicles jolted down the rough, rocky track to the waterhole from the old Telegraph Station on Telegraph Hill overlooking the billabong. I was pretty sure they were breaching the hire care agreement.

They were only a brief distraction from the billabong’s main attractions.  These started with a pair of Brolga in the carpark, a massive selection of ducks in the shallow waters surrounding the main pool, an astonishing array of birdlife on the billabong itself, and – of course – the crocodiles!

Brolga at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia
Brolga at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

No amenities block and the thought of a stray crocodile policing the surrounding trees ensure most visitors move on after a short time. Whether or not it’s a deliberate strategy to reduce human impact, tragically it means the billabong won’t be featuring in my Australian Scenic Public Toilet series.

This also turns the Waltzing Matilda subject matter – a swagman boiling his billy while camped beside the Billabong with a freshly killed sheep ready to roast – into potential Waterhole Massacre.

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia
Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

But with all the crocodile, tourist and other wildlife action, who cares?

Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong
Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong

* Refer to lyrics from Waltzing Matilda, arguably the most popular Aussie song of all time

** Billabong = Oxbow lake

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Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/red-pilchards-ultimate-all-australian-travelling-cafe/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:20:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=66 NEW from RedzAustralia!

It doesn’t matter where we are. Or how far we’ve travelled. Or how hot it is. Or cold. Or what time of day. Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast. We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café! Because it’s ALWAYS open. For us … … and[...]

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The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
The Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Cafe sets up at Dales Gorge Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia

It doesn’t matter where we are.

Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, Far North Queensland
Cool Waters Caravan Park, Cairns, FNQ

Or how far we’ve travelled.

Or how hot it is.

Or cold.

Or what time of day.

Whether it’s time for a snack, a meal, a nightcap, morning tea or midnight feast.

We can always drop in to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café!

Because it’s ALWAYS open.

For us …

… and serves up food just the way we like it!

With fresh, local ingredients.

Like food from our favourite bakeries.

Or fast food.

Or even good, old fashioned home-cooked meals.

But Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café isn’t open to just ANYONE!  Its exclusive membership deals are just for two!

The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia
The Café has a visitor, Wyndham Caravan Park, Western Australia

Usually.

BUT … there’s an occasional dispensation for a special guest, or a mate.

Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales
Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales

And the best thing about Red and Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café?

Against a fascinating and ever-changing backdrop – tropical, desert, coastal, inland, rocky, sandy, scrub, bushland, beach, mallee, lakes, rivers – the Café provides an oasis of stability.

Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory
Breakfast is served, Ormiston Gorge Campground, Central Australia, Northern Territory

Because no matter how dramatic the changes to scenery, weather or company, the Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café Chairs have remained the same for nearly a decade.

So whatever adventures we’re having on the road, we come home to Red & Pilchard’s Ultimate All-Australian Travelling Café.

Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland
Swanvale Jump-up, via Stonehenge, Outback Queensland

And our Café Chairs!

They’re not even close to being worn out yet, so if you’re out on the road and you see them (and us!), why not drop in and see if the Cafe’s open?!

Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia
Waikerie Caravan Park, Waikerie, South Australia

Want MORE?

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7 Crocodile Hot Spots in Australia’s Top End https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/08/7-crocodile-hot-spots-in-australias-top-end/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/08/7-crocodile-hot-spots-in-australias-top-end/#comments Fri, 17 Aug 2012 03:19:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=119 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Crocodiles are a weird combination of Aussie ‘Big Thing’ and perilous prehistoric predator. Maybe our fascination with crocodiles in Australia is what makes this my most viewed post of all time*. Or maybe it’s because of the awesome photos and superlative writing … read on, and decide for yourself 😀 But before you do, PLEASE NOTE this WARNING: Crocodiles are VERY dangerous and[...]

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Crocodiles are a weird combination of Aussie ‘Big Thing’ and perilous prehistoric predator. Maybe our fascination with crocodiles in Australia is what makes this my most viewed post of all time*.

Or maybe it’s because of the awesome photos and superlative writing … read on, and decide for yourself 😀

But before you do, PLEASE NOTE this WARNING:

Crocodiles are VERY dangerous and can be found almost anywhere in the Top End – not just in the places I mention below, and certainly NOT just where there are warning sgns.  Large crocodiles have been found a LONG way from the sea, and in many smaller rivers and streams. SO … you MUST be crocodile aware WHEREVER you go – don’t assume it’s safe just because there’s no sign, or no one has warned you.  Assume they are EVERYWHERE in the Top End – even if you can’t see them.

'Krys', the world's largest crocodile, Normanton, Queensland
‘Krys’, the world’s largest crocodile, Normanton, Queensland with Red, Australia’s best blogger (!!!!)

Of course, the World’s Biggest Crocodile replica in Normanton, Queensland isn’t a ‘Big Thing’ ie several times larger than the real deal. It’s actually a life-size replica of the biggest crocodile ever ‘taken’ (read:  ‘shot’) by croc hunter turned croc supporter Krystina Pawloski in 1957.Now known as ‘Krys’, the 8.63 metre long (28′ 4″) monster croc is bigger than JAWS, and it’s the biggest known specimen in the world.

The golden age blood sport of hunting crocodiles in Australia ended when crocodiles became protected in the early 1970’s. But crocodile hunting still takes place downunder – as long as your weapon of choice is a camera!

Would you trust this face?  Huge Saltwater crocodile at Victoria River via Timber Creek, NT
Would you trust this face?  Huge Saltwater crocodile at Victoria River via Timber Creek, NT

Although that won’t make any difference to the cunning saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus – or ‘Saltie’) who can wait for days to ensnare its prey, and once its victim is in the ‘death roll’, there’s little chance of escape.

And just to make things more confusing, it doesn’t always hang out in salt water, either!

Would you swim with this little beauty? Freshwater crocodile at Windjana Gorge, via Derby, WA
Would you swim with this little beauty? Freshwater crocodile at Windjana Gorge, via Derby, WA

While less aggressive, Australia’s only other crocodile species, the Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni – or ‘Freshie’) has been known to attack, although not fatally.

But hey! Who wants to be the first?!

So where’s the best places to hunt for those elusive ‘live’ Crocodiles in Australia photos? Try my 7 Aussie Top End Crocodile Hot Spots for ALMOST guaranteed sightings!!

1. Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham,Western Australia:

Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia
Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia
This magnificent oasis set like a jewel amongst the stupendous scenery of the Kimberley is better known for the water birds that frequent it.
On the banks at Marlgu Billabong
On the banks at Marlgu Billabong

But what’s that lurking beneath its benign surface?

The video at the top of the post shows why it’s not a good idea to stray from the boardwalk.

But it’s an even worse idea to venture onto the banks of this worrisome wetland when this little beauty is sunning himself!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the billabong banks on the far side regularly – crocs can appear without warning!

2. Daintree River, Daintree, Far North Queensland

Yes, that speck on the sandbank IS a crocodile!!
Yes, that speck on the sandbank IS a crocodile!!

A known crocodile hotspot, crocodile hunter wannabees can choose an assisted croc sighting via any number of river cruises. Daintree River Wild Watch was our choice for its birdwatching credentials, but we also got to see a saltwater crocodile close up whilst on the cruise.

Our first unassisted sighting came after the cruise as we drove up the road and spotted a large saltie sunning himself on a sandbank. He wasn’t there when we passed that same sandbank on our cruise about 30 minutes before!

The Daintree River doesn’t discriminate between salties and freshies – they’re both here in abundance!

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many Daintree River crocodile cruises can’t be wrong! Sightings are virtually guaranteed on a river cruise, and are not uncommon elsewhere.

3. Adelaide River via Darwin, Northern Territory:

Jumping Croc
Jumping Croc

The jury’s out on whether a sighting of a Performing Crocodile (ie a croc jumping for its supper) actually counts as crocodile hunting.

It’s the saurian equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel BUT if you can’t see them any other way, then knock yourself out!!

Choose one of the many available ‘Jumping Croc’ cruises – and hope like hell the boat doesn’t tip over as all the tourists rush to the same side whenever a crocodile appears …

Croc Hunter Tip:

This doesn’t really count as ‘hunting’ – but you WILL see crocodiles!!

4. Lake Argyle, via Kununurra, Western Australia:

The spectacular and otherworldly landscape of Australia’s largest lake will keep budding photographers busy for hours. One of the most magnificent spots in the country, the watery landscape is so panoramic, the wildlife takes second place.

Morning at Lake Argyle, Western Australia ... and not a croc in sight!
Morning at Lake Argyle, Western Australia … and not a croc in sight!
Almost!
Freshwater croc at Lake Argyle, WA
Freshwater croc at Lake Argyle, WA

Below the dam wall, these cold-blooded (in more ways than one) freshwater crocodiles recover from the cool night temperatures by taking in some sun. And while the morning cruise isn’t specifically about crocodile hunting, there are plenty around the banks and in the water.

Which could make the annual 10- and 20 km swimming races in the lake rather interesting …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the far bank below the dam wall. And take that 2 hour cruise – even if you don’t see a crocodile, it’s worth it just for the scenery!!

Crocodile warning sign, East Alligator River, Kakadu NP, Northern Territory
Crocodile warning sign, East Alligator River, Kakadu NP, Northern Territory

For more entertainment than is good for you, observe the anglers trying to land a big barramundi at this crocodile infested tidal river crossing into Arnhem Land. It’s also fun watching vehicles crossing the causeway as the tide comes in.

And it’s not called the East Alligator River for nothing!

Watching someone actually being taken by a crocodile would give me nightmares for a long, long time.

No, that's not a tyre ... Yellow Water dawn cruise, Kakadu National Park
No, that’s not a tyre … Yellow Water dawn cruise, Kakadu National Park

So watching a tinnie** full of drunken fisherman, one precariously perched on the nose of the craft as it drifted ever closer to a large crocodile they hadn’t seen, completely oblivious to the warning shouts from observers on the river bank, was a mesmerizing moment I hope never to experience again.

Luckily for them, the croc slid into the water and disappeared – they never even saw it.

As the tide came in, more crocodiles appeared downstream – not that the anglers knee-deep in water seemed to care …

But if you want your croc viewings with a bit less drama, try a Kakadu Yellow Water Cruise!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Crocodiles abound in Kakadu National Park. See them at Cahill’s Crossing or on a cruise – but don’t make out like crocodile bait!

6. Windjana Gorge, via Gibb River Road, Western Australia:

 

No, those aren't logs in the water ... Windjana Gorge, WA
No, those aren’t logs in the water … Windjana Gorge, WA

No, those aren’t logs in the water … Windjana Gorge, WA

Frustrated crocodile hunters who’ve dipped out*** on crocs at other hot spots will not be disappointed here, unless they’re on a lifelong losing streak. If that’s the case (and even if it isn’t), think twice about heading for Windjana unless you’re keen on experiencing clouds of red dust, brain-hammering corrugated roads, tyre-shredding rocks and other generally adverse driving conditions en route to this remote spot.

Freshwater Crocs at Windjana Gorge, WA
THAT’S what’s in the water!! Freshwater Crocs at Windjana Gorge, WA

Once there, if you can tear your eyes away from the gob-smackingly awesome scenery, you’ll be reaching for the crocodile repellent – yes, there really are that many!

All freshies, of course!! But happily, that makes getting a tad closer for those souvenir photos just that little bit easier!

Back down the road in Derby, crocs are regularly seen around the mangroves, although I have no photographic evidence of the large crocodile we spotted swimming in King Sound near the jetty …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Take the track into the gorge and keep your eyes on the water and sandbanks. Some would go so far as to dub this a ‘sure thing’ sighting spot!

7. Timber Creek, Northern Territory:

Feeding the freshies at Timber Creek, Northern Territory
Feeding the freshies at Timber Creek, Northern Territory

In the creek behind the Circle F Caravan Park campground, there’s a daily feeding session attracting any or all of the 12 freshwater crocodiles living in the creek.

They’re not always interested, but the enticement of a free snack costing virtually no energy is generally too much of a temptation to resist!

Careful observers may notice crocodiles resting on the banks of the creek – while they’re *only* freshies, my tip for the day is to let sleeping crocs lie.

Lurking on the banks of Timber Creek!
Lurking on the banks of Timber Creek!

But the nearby Victoria River’s self-nomination as Australia’s last great wild river may well be true, if the number of crocodile sightings is anything to go by.

The best way to see them is in a croc-proof purpose built river cruiser with a context-setting tour of Timber Creek at one end and sunset drinks and snacks on a float in the middle of the river at the other!

A Victoria River Cruise delivers on multiple crocodile sightings as well, with local Neville Fogarty identifying the ‘local’ crocs by name and reputation!

As we passed the white croc, old ‘Broken-jaw’ and the 5+ metre long Lord Lizard who disappeared without a trace into the water beneath the cruiser, Neville told us the cattle station we were passing lost 200+ cattle to crocodiles each year.

Lord Lizard leaves, Victoria River, NT
Lord Lizard leaves, Victoria River, NT

Somehow, I don’t think they’d mind a change in diet if anyone was foolish enough to stray  too close to the water …

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many sightings of both Saltwater and Freshwater crocodiles, you won’t know where to look first. But be warned – these ones are BIG!!

White Crocodile, Victoria River, Northern Territory
White Crocodile, Victoria River, Northern Territory

Disclaimer: Wild crocodiles are unpredictable, so of course I can’t guarantee you’ll see crocodiles in Australia where I have! But stay ‘croc-alert’ and you may see them where you’re least expecting it.

Two Crocs, a Dead Cow and the Mary River, NT
Two Crocs, a Dead Cow and the Mary River, NT

Like the time we watched in horrified disbelief as two crocodiles fought over a dead cow floating downstream past our campsite on the Northern Territory’s Mary River – but that’s another story!!

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* OK, since you asked nicely, the 2nd most viewed post of all time is 7 Days between Adelaide and Darwin

** tinnie = small aluminium fishing boat  There’s no accounting for taste!

***  ‘Dipped Out’ = Aussie expression meaning failed, or not done, or didn’t happen

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OZ Top Spot #14 – The Grotto, via Wyndham, Western Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/07/oz-top-spot-14-the-grotto-via-wyndham-western-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/07/oz-top-spot-14-the-grotto-via-wyndham-western-australia/#comments Sat, 21 Jul 2012 03:43:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=121 NEW from RedzAustralia!

My hard-won title of ‘World’s Greatest Coward’ was in no danger of disappearing as I stood poised on the first of the 140 hand-hewn rocky steps descending into the depths of the chasm. Above the Grotto:  A loo and no view! The Grotto’s inauspicious car park and ‘rest area’ had promised worse than nothing. A desolate expanse of bare, rocky[...]

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Reflections at the Grotto, via Wyndham, Western Australia
Reflections at the Grotto, via Wyndham, Western Australia

My hard-won title of ‘World’s Greatest Coward’ was in no danger of disappearing as I stood poised on the first of the 140 hand-hewn rocky steps descending into the depths of the chasm.

Above the Grotto:  A loo and no view!

The Grotto Carpark
The Grotto Carpark

The Grotto’s inauspicious car park and ‘rest area’ had promised worse than nothing.

A desolate expanse of bare, rocky ground; bins overflowing with tourist season detritus (read wine casks, beer bottles, loo paper); and a public toilet so disgracefully messed up that even my expertise couldn’t turn into something scenic.

Hordes of Grey Nomads swarmed across the rocks towards the tree-lined gash at the head of the gorge. Water gleamed far below through a mat of vegetation. People posed. Cameras clicked. People departed. Motors leapt into life.

The Staircase from Hell

The Grotto, Wyndham
The Grotto, Wyndham

Further back towards the car park, a few steps led directly off the cliff edge into what looked like mid-air. Right next to the sign warning ‘Cliff Risk Area’ and a splendidly graphic depiction of a person tripping over a tsunami.

This couldn’t possibly be the ‘staircase’ to the Grotto. Could it?

No one else had gone down the steps to nowhere, and no wonder. If this was the ‘easy’ stairway I’d anticipated when we left Wyndham for the famous Grotto, I wouldn’t be going anywhere either!

But what’s the point of visiting new places if you’re too gutless to see them? What’s the point of craving new experiences if you’re too cowardly??

And ultimately, what’s the point of having life-changing adventures if they don’t actually change your life???

Magic at the Grotto, Wyndham, Western Australia
Magic at the Grotto, Wyndham, Western Australia

If I’d have been so inclined, I’d have crossed myself, but instead settled for divulging the secret location of my blog password in the event of my untimely death by misadventure.

At least death at the Grotto sounded mildly exotic – and with that morbid but strangely comforting thought, I faced the staircase from hell.

The Reward of the Brave

Fit, agile and possibly younger readers will doubtless marvel at my inability to trip down the rugged stairway as lightly as an election promise. But as I negotiated the switchbacks (sadly unrelieved by guardrails) with stairs cut directly from the cubic rock of the cliff walls and pointlessly clutching at sheer rock faces for support I descended through a portal into paradise.

Dark, and shimmering with fractured reflections from the towering cliffs above, the pool at the base of what must be a magnificent wet season waterfall, is estimated to be at least 300 ft deep.

Reflections in the Grotto Pool, Wyndham, Western Australia
Reflections in the Grotto Pool, Wyndham, Western Australia

Twisted tree roots keep the cubic rock crystals in place (please god) and water trickles over carpets of moss, full as a sponge. And the person or persons unknown who hung the rope swing from an overhanging tree high above the pool?

Let’s just say there’s a fine line between enterprise and foolhardiness!!

The Grotto?  Or Middle Earth??  YOU decide!
The Grotto?  Or Middle Earth??  YOU decide!

I gasped as I dipped my feet into the water, shaded for most of the day between the steep rocky walls of the chasm that surrounds it. I could only imagine what would have happened if my less calloused body parts had been immersed! But its frigidity didn’t deter the water monitors (lizards) swimming and sunbaking on the rocks, and on a hotter day would be heaven!

Water Monitor, the Grotto, Wyndham
Water Monitor, the Grotto, Wyndham

The Magic of the Grotto

Was I still in Australia? Or had I inadvertently slipped into Middle Earth?

The Grotto’s quietude, dream-like tranquility and the flicker of its ever-changing reflections must have had a mesmerising effect that blocked out all traces of the world above and stilled the passage of time. (That’s a poetic way of saying I can’t recall how long we spent down there)(or how many photos I took).

As we explored its nooks and crannies, careful not to disturb the lizards, was it a coincidence that I discovered my camera’s ‘Magic’ setting?

Of course that meant re-taking nearly every photo to see how ‘magic’ affected it!!

But finally, it was time to leave.

More Magic at the Grotto!
More Magic at the Grotto!

And as we reluctantly ascended back into the real world’s sunlight, dust and devastated car park the Grotto felt like a dream from which I wished I could not awake.

While I deplore the Aussie tendency for unimaginative place names, ‘Grotto’ is a geographically accurate description.

But it hardly captures the strange and unexpected beauty of this remote jewel of the Kimberley region, does it?

A New Name

So what would I call it?

HHHMMMmmm… lets see …

Mesmerizing Magical Middle Earth?

Cavernous Cauldron Chasm??

Happy Harmony Hollow???

Lazy Lizards Leap????

Nah, I’m no good at this. What would YOU call it?!

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #26 – Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/07/australias-scenic-public-toilets-26-five-rivers-lookout-wyndham-western-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/07/australias-scenic-public-toilets-26-five-rivers-lookout-wyndham-western-australia/#comments Mon, 16 Jul 2012 04:30:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=122 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Western view from Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia The lookout with the most staggering scenery in Australia will always be a matter of personal taste. There are so many contenders that jaded travellers have been known to pass up the opportunity to see yet another lookout over even more staggering vistas. Southern View – Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia[...]

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Western view from Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia
The lookout with the most staggering scenery in Australia will always be a matter of personal taste. There are so many contenders that jaded travellers have been known to pass up the opportunity to see yet another lookout over even more staggering vistas.
Southern View – Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia

And being lookouted-out is a known syndrome.  Well … ALMOST!

But the view from imaginatively named Five Rivers Lookout overlooking the Cambridge Gulf is beyond staggering.

In fact, the stupendous panorama from Mt Bastion, towering ~330 metres above the gulf and the port of Wyndham where five significant rivers meet is several kinds of awesome.

Northern View, Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia

And with not one, but TWO scenic public toilets, Western Australia’s northernmost town Wyndham immediately scoots to the top of Australia’s most scenic public toilets list.

Set amongst some of most spectacular and unusual scenery in Australia, Wyndham’s vista includes the magnificent escarpments of the Cockburn and Bastion ranges, vast river floodplains, tidal salt flats, wetlands, billabongs, mangrove swamps and two 7-9 metre tides per day.

Five Rivers Lookout Amenities, The Bastion Summit

And despite being ~100 km from the coast, the Gulf’s killer combination of tropical waters, incoming river flows, massive tides and remote location makes it ideal for fishing.

If fishing in crocodile-infested waters is actually a drawcard!

Perhaps it’s fitting that the meeting place of the Ord, Pentecost, Forrest, Durack and King rivers offers a choice of two amenities blocks – the view is so extensive it’s impossible to fit into one photograph.


Red Circle marks Jetty Loo Location, Cambridge Gulf, Wyndham

Mix business with pleasure at the unobtrusive lookout loo, in the barbecue area behind the lookout carpark, with one of the best outlooks in Australia; or at the jetty loo slap-bang in the middle of the Five Rivers Lookout panorama.


But between you and me, with scenery this staggering, it’s not all about the amenities at this awesome Aussie attraction.
Just don’t tell anyone I told you so!!
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Sunset over Cambridge Gulf, Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham, Western Australia

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