Naracoorte Caves Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/naracoorte-caves/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Tue, 04 May 2021 12:36:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Naracoorte Caves Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/naracoorte-caves/ 32 32 The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Part ONE https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/beginners-guide-to-limestone-coast-part-one/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/11/beginners-guide-to-limestone-coast-part-one/#comments Sun, 01 Nov 2015 12:21:48 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=4218 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Wild rocky coastline littered with lighthouses and shipwrecks; dormant volcanoes, jewel-like caves and craters; oddly coloured lakes, mysterious pools and deep sinkholes; long, deserted beaches full of fishing spots, surf breaks and secluded bays; spectacular coastal scenery and the Southern Rock Lobster Capital of Australia – if not, the WORLD! And not many travellers even know it’s there! It’s South[...]

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Cape Buffon, Southend, Limestone Coast South Australia
Cape Buffon, Southend, Limestone Coast South Australia

Wild rocky coastline littered with lighthouses and shipwrecks; dormant volcanoes, jewel-like caves and craters; oddly coloured lakes, mysterious pools and deep sinkholes; long, deserted beaches full of fishing spots, surf breaks and secluded bays; spectacular coastal scenery and the Southern Rock Lobster Capital of Australia – if not, the WORLD!

And not many travellers even know it’s there!

It’s South Australia’s SUPER Cool Limestone Coast and it’s a nature-lovers paradise; an unspoilt scenic sensation and an awesome outdoor adventureland.

It’s so cool, it’s HOT!

But with so much to see and do, how does a Limestone Coast beginner know where to start?

Glenelg River Mouth, Nelson, Limestone Coast
Glenelg River Mouth, Nelson, Limestone Coast

Take my two-part beginners guide and I’ll show enough RED HOT Limestone Coast things to do that’ll keep you busy for at least a week.

In Part One (just keep on reading below) I’ll show you 6 amazing things to do mostly around Mount Gambier and the southern end of the Limestone Coast (see the fast facts at the end of the post). And in Part Two (take the link below!) we’ll see more of the coast and head further north.

But for now relax, grab a drink and discover some awesome Limestone Coast things to do!

1 Go Caving!

Wedding Cake Formation, Princess Margaret Rose Caves via Nelson, Limestone Coast
Wedding Cake Formation, Princess Margaret Rose Caves via Nelson, Limestone Coast

The hardest part of going underground on the Limestone Coast is choosing which of its 800 cool caves to explore first! They’re all part of the Kanawinka Geopark – the remnants of volcanic activity in the dim, distant past – at least I hope so!

Not all the caves are accessible though, so here are FOUR (entry fees apply) to get you started!

Take a 45 minute guided tour of the Engelbrecht Cave system right underneath Mount Gambier – if you do, then tell me what it’s like! I didn’t have time to take the tour myself on this visit!

Then head north along the Princes Highway towards Millicent for a self-guided tour of the Tantanoola Cave and its spectacular formations

If I hadn’t already seen the awesome Marsupial Lion at the World Heritage listed Naracoorte Caves on a guided tour – which included a trip to the Bat Cave – from Wonambi Fossil Centre just out of Naracoorte, it would have been first on my list.

But instead, I crossed the border into Victoria to take a 45 minute tour 14 metres underground into the fantastic

This stalagmite is the same age as me! Who knew!
This stalagmite is the same age as me! Who knew!

otherworldly splendour of the Princess Margaret Rose Cave, named for Princess Margaret by a woman born on the same day! There’s a superb range of veil and wedding cake formations, stalactites, stalagmites, helictites – and even a newish stalagmite the same age as me!

But I’ll leave you to visit the caves yourself if you want to find out how old it is – and I am!

Above ground, the Lower Glenelg National Park surrounding the cave complex is pretty awesome too with a picnic and campground, walks and a lookout over the Glenelg River.

Glenelg River Cliffs and Cruise Boat near Princess Margaret Rose Caves, Nelson
Glenelg River Cliffs and Cruise Boat near Princess Margaret Rose Caves, Nelson

For a great day out, take a return 3½ hour cruise up the river from Nelson to the cave for the tour (PS – there’s a LOT to do at Nelson, too)!

(BONUS: Read about my Naracoorte Caves adventure HERE!)

This killer cave collection has something for everyone! That’s if you’re not claustrophobic, afraid of dark, enclosed spaces or bats, or full of pointless fears about that unsupported roof right above you crashing down!!

2 See Scenic Sinkholes!

Umpherston Sinkhole Gardens, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast, South Australia
Umpherston Sinkhole Gardens, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast

Ever wondered if the roof of a cave could ever collapse? Check out EXACTLY what happens at FOUR of the Limestone Coast’s biggest Sinkholes (all with FREE entry)!

Every night, the FREE sound and light show in Mount Gambier’s Cave Garden fires up the caverns as well as giving the indigenous history of the area – it’s an awesome view from the lookouts suspended high above the sinkhole.

By day, it’s good, but not as impressive as the Umpherston Sinkhole Gardens, a magical below-ground-level open-air experience where the rugged limestone walls are hidden behind a beautiful garden.

But sinkholes are more impressive in the wild – if you can find Caroline Sinkhole in Penambol Conservation Park just out of Mt Gambier, you’ll see what these massive circular depressions actually look like in their natural state. The above-ground walking trail from the car park through the forest is pretty too!

Penambol Conservation Park walking trail, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast
Penambol Conservation Park walking trail, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast

It’s even harder to find Hells Hole – apparently the sign keeps getting pinched! I get that – it’d probably look cool at the front gate or in the garden!! Hells Hole is at the end of a pleasant walk through the pine forest, and a scary suspended walkway 30 metres above the water level, with a sign telling (omigod-you’ve-got-to-be-kidding) divers to close the gate behind them!

I SO didn’t bother getting a diving permit 😀

3 Experience Life on the Ponds

Ewens Ponds Conservation Park, Limestone Coast, South Australia
Ewens Ponds Conservation Park, Limestone Coast, South Australia

A much smaller (but WAY more picturesque) version of the sinkholes are TWO limestone karst wetlands full of clear water freshly filtered through the limestone from the aquifer beneath.

Colours of Ewens Ponds, Limestone Coast South Australia
Colours of Ewens Ponds, Limestone Coast South Australia

The three ponds connected by Eight Mile Creek (and a walking track) that make up the Ewens Ponds Conservation Park are generally open for swimming, snorkelling and diving. It’s a pretty spot even without going in the water!

Permits are required for cave diving in the 110 metre deep ponds in the Piccaninnie Ponds Conservation Park, but the walking track through the coastal scrub, then along a magnificent stretch of beach to the Outlet Creek and boardwalk is a varied and interesting hike.

4 Look out for the Lakes!

Blue Lake, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast South Australia
Blue Lake, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast South Australia

It’s pretty hard to miss Mount Gambier’s famous four Crater Lakes (all with FREE activities) – especially from the vantage point of Centenary Tower (see last photo), a steep climb along the network of mountain bike and walking trails, lookouts and rest areas linking the Lakes to the Mount’s highest point.

It’s also got excellent views over Mount Gambier, South Australia’s 2nd largest city, and over to Mount Schank (see #6 below), an extinct volcano on the Kanawinka Geotrail, Australia’s biggest volcanic province. Then it’s all downhill – praise be!

Valley Lake and Blue Lake Crater from Centenary Tower, Mount Gambier
Valley Lake and Blue Lake Crater from Centenary Tower, Mount Gambier

The Leg of Mutton Lake was dry on our visit – but there’s a walking trail around it! In autumn, the deciduous trees once part of a nursery on the site make a fine display of colour.

Browne’s Lake was also dry on our visit, but can be seen from the road through the lake complex.

Have a picnic down at Valley Lake (yes, it’s down in the valley at the bottom of the crater) and take a walk through the Valley Lake Conservation Park. On our walk, we saw koalas, kangaroos, lizards, Cape Barren Geese, manic Blue Wrens – but thankfully no snakes! Barbecues and boat ramps make it easy to spend the whole day here.

The famous Blue Lake reaches its bluest blue from November to March – see it up close on an Aquifer tour (fees apply) down the old well shaft to the water level, or just admire it from the walk around the rim.

Little Blue Lake Swimming Platform, Limestone Coast near Port MacDonnell
Little Blue Lake Swimming Platform, Limestone Coast near Port MacDonnell

But for an even closer look at that famous blue water take a drive out along the Port MacDonnell road to Little Blue Lake. It’s a micro-mini version of its bigger, more famous buddy, but it’s actually got a swimming platform and rails so you can take a dip! For FREE!

5 Walk on the WILD Side at Canunda National Park

Southend Jetty, northern end of Canunda National Park, Limestone Coast
Southend Jetty, northern end of Canunda National Park, Limestone Coast

Take a 4WD drive along Canunda National Park‘s 40 km of rugged coastline between Southend and Carpenter Rocks and discover rocky cliffs, surfing breaks, sandstone formations, rock stacks beaches, fishing spots, massive dunes and camping spots.

Cape Banks Lighthouse
Cape Banks Lighthouse, Carpenters Rocks, South Australia

No 4WD? No problem! Drive to Cape Buffon at the northern end of the park for walking tracks, lookout points and the beautiful beaches and bays of Southend. 2WD roads from Millicent and Carpenter Rocks give access to other areas of the park, including the toxic orange Cape Banks Lighthouse!

Canunda National Park near Carpenters Rocks, Limestone Coast
View from Cape Banks Lighthouse, Canunda National Park near Carpenters Rocks, Limestone Coast

Yes, with FREE entry, this is one of the best places to see exactly why this stretch of the Limestone Coast is also known as the Shipwreck Coast!

6 Climb an Extinct Volcano!

Mount Schank from Centenary Tower, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast
Mount Schank (in the distance) from Centenary Tower, Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast

Mount Schank and Mount Gambier (the mountain, not the city) were Australia’s most recent eruptions – recently enough to be recorded in the area’s Indigenous history. It’s also re-enacted on the big screen (for FREE) every day at the Main Corner Dress Circle in Mount Gambier (the city, not the mountain).

But without any eruptions in a VERY long time, Mount Schank is now considered extinct.  Let’s hope it stays that way!!

It’s also been a VERY long time since I climbed Mount Schank, about 15 km south of Mount Gambier. But not long enough to forget the awesome landscape all around this 158 metre high mountain – and the fantastic view below me in the crater.

Red on Mt Schank, via Mt Gambier, Limestone Coast
Red climbs Mt Schank – a VERY long time ago!

Experience life in a volcano by continuing the walk around the rim and down a VERY steep trail into the crater!

(BONUS: Read about my other adventures on the Kanawinka GeoTrail HERE)

Like what you’ve seen so far?

Then go straight to Part Two of The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Link BELOW!!

Beach on the Piccaninnie Ponds Trail, Limestone Coast, South Australia
Beach on the Piccaninnie Ponds Trail, Limestone Coast, South Australia

Limestone Coast FAST FACTS:

Centenary Tower atop Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast South Australia
Centenary Tower atop Mount Gambier, Limestone Coast South Australia
  • WHERE: South East South Australia, from Meningie and the Coorong National Park at its northern tip to Port MacDonnell in the south. Mount Gambier is the largest centre.
  • HOW to get there: Self-drive from Adelaide to Mount Gambier (~450 km); or Melbourne to Mount Gambier (~450-550 km) – distances vary depending on route taken. Coach from Adelaide or Melbourne. Fly from Adelaide or Melbourne. Hire cars available.
  • WHEN: All year round. Average maximum temperatures range from 14°C in winter to 30°C in summer.
  • WHERE to stay: There’s a range of accommodation throughout the Limestone Coast – campgrounds, caravan parks, motels, apartments, B&Bs etc.We stayed in Mount Gambier, Port MacDonnell and Robe which were central to the attractions we wanted to see.

Want MORE?

 

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Red’s BEST Activities in South Australia! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/08/best-travel-experiences-in-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/08/best-travel-experiences-in-south-australia/#comments Mon, 03 Aug 2015 13:32:19 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3921 NEW from RedzAustralia!

So what are Australia’s best activities?  A simple state by state word association test will more than likely give you results like these: Northern Territory = Uluru. Queensland = Barrier Reef. New South Wales = Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. Tasmania = Cradle Mountain. Victoria = The Great Ocean Road. Western Australia = Wildflowers. Australian Capital Territory = Parliament[...]

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Murray Mouth, via Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island, South Australia
Murray Mouth, via Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island, South Australia

So what are Australia’s best activities?  A simple state by state word association test will more than likely give you results like these:

Northern Territory = Uluru.

Queensland = Barrier Reef.

New South Wales = Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House.

Tasmania = Cradle Mountain.

Victoria = The Great Ocean Road.

Western Australia = Wildflowers.

Australian Capital Territory = Parliament House! And all those wonderful politicians …

Sunset at Wattle Point Wind Farm, South Australia
Sunset at Wattle Point Wind Farm, South Australia

But South Australia = ? Well … WHAT??

OK, so you think South Australia doesn’t have a main attraction?  Well, I say who needs just one, when South Australia is chock-a-block with things to do! Whether you’re looking for a fun family holiday, a swag of adventure activities, some cool country towns to visit, fabulous natural attractions, or just a romantic weekend away South Australia is the place to be!

So just check out this list of the best activities to do in South Australia you can choose from with confidence because they’re hand-picked by a local – me – and they’re some of my faves!

You’re welcome!

1 Ridge Top Tour, Arkaroola

Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout
Final Ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour

Getting to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, Australia’s premier eco-tourism destination, by car is half the fun – and a tour of some of the most spectacular South Australian Outback scenery to boot. The Sanctuary Village is set amidst a stunning landscape of fantastic rock formations, low ranges, multi-coloured minerals and a massive sky. So how do you top that? Take the Sanctuary’s signature Ridge-top Tour – a rugged 4 hour return 4WD adventure through the (almost) trackless wilderness to Sillers Lookout.

I’m calling it the best lookout AND one of the best adventures in OZ!  But don’t take my word for it – here’s where you’ll find even MORE About Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary!!

2 Lions at Naracoorte Caves

Thylacoleo carnifex, Australia's lion! Naracoorte Caves, South Australia
Thylacoleo carnifex, Australia’s lion! Naracoorte Caves, South Australia

It’s just as well that Thylacoleo carnifex is extinct. It’s scary enough seeing a ghostly skeleton silhouette deep underground in the Naracoorte Cave system when you know it’s long dead. But imagine meeting a real live one face to face above the ground? These days, the scariest wildlife (not counting snakes) above the ground along the Limestone coast are the bats – and the wombats!

The Naracoorte Caves complex (South Australia’s only World Heritage listed site) is an awesome blend of fascinating Pleistocene megafauna fossils, stunning limestone formations and intriguing pre-history.  And the Bat Cave.  Don’t forget the Bat Cave!

MORE About Naracoorte Caves National Park

3 Whale Watching at Head of Bight

 

Head of Bight Boardwalk, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
Head of Bight Boardwalk, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

I’m not sure if the LOOOOONG drive across the Nullarbor Plain just above the LOOOOONG curve of the Great Australian Bight stretching for thousands of kilometres along the southern coastline and the LOOOOONGest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the world means the Head of Bight whale-watching experience qualifies as EXTREME whale-watching!

Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale and Calf at Head of Bight, South Australia

In season, from May to October, Head of Bight becomes a whale nursery with 40 or more whales and calves cavorting below the cliffs.

But you won’t come across it by chance – it’s over 800 km west of Adelaide so it’s best experienced as part of a Nullarbor crossing en route to Perth (or Adelaide if you’re heading east).

And that’s a pretty cool road-trip adventure in itself!

MORE About Whale Watching at Head of Bight

4 Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Ranges

Wilpena Range from outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Wilpena Range from outside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Unless you’re planning a lengthy stay in the magnificent Flinders Ranges, it’s way too big to see it all in just one visit. So get started by exploring its iconic centrepiece, the spectacular Wilpena Pound, a massive 8 x 17 km natural rock amphitheatre once used by early pastoralists as a grazing ground!

Wilpena Range from inside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia
Wilpena Range from inside Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia

If Wangara Lookout near the old Homestead doesn’t give good enough view; or a sighting from atop St Mary’s Peak is too challenging; or a flight over the Pound too expensive, take the up close and personal (and fewer people) option and walk across it! The Bridle Gap trail (also part of the Heysen trail – see below) crosses Wilpena Pound and climbs its southwestern edge for spectacular views back across the Pound and out across the layers of ranges beyond.

Once you’ve seen the Pound for yourself, why not stay a while longer and check out Sacred Canyon, Mt Ohlssen Bagge, St Mary’s Peak, the Cazneaux Tree and lots of other hot spots.

Not sure where to start?  There’s a LOT more in my beginners guide to exploring the Flinders Ranges HERE!

5 Troubridge Island

Troubridge Island and Lighthouse
Troubridge Island and Lighthouse, South Australia

Troubridge Island is about 2000 km too far south to make it into the tropics. But if you were washed ashore on a fine day, you’d think you really WERE on a deserted tropical island. Luckily, a Troubridge Island escape means you can stay on this tiny island, deserted but for the Little Penguins and Cormorants for whom this is a breeding ground AND whoever else you brought with you to share the solitude!! But snorkelling the clear waters surrounding the island, hauling in a fish or two for the BBQ, wandering the beaches and staying in a renovated lighthouse-keeper’s cottage about 6 km offshore from Edithburgh on the Yorke Peninsula is a mighty fine deserted-tropical-island substitute.

MORE About Troubridge Island

6 Remarkable Rocks on Kangaroo Island

Remarkable Rocks
Red & Pilchard at Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

The odd-shaped wind and sand-blasted granite Rocks aren’t the only remarkable thing about the third largest of Australia’s 8222 islands! Vivonne Bay regularly makes the lists of the top 10 eco-friendly beaches in Australia, if not the world. Because of its relative isolation it’s got the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world – just one of the reasons that foodies flock here. And if you like the smell of fish, get up close to the permanent seal colony! BUT … head back to Flinders Chase National Park to see why these rocks ROCK!

MORE About Kangaroo Island

7 Going Underground at Coober Pedy

Truck Stop, Coober Pedy, South Australia
Truck Stop, Coober Pedy, South Australia

Just between us, you don’t actually have to go underground to find your very own piece of Australia’s national gem, the Opal! I found a piece in Coober Pedy’s main street without too much effort at all – although it WAS in a shop attached to a rather attractive ring with a price tag of just $600 😀

Underground at Coober Pedy, South Australia
Underground at Coober Pedy, South Australia

Mostly underground, tiny outback opal mining town Coober Pedy is classic South Australian Outback with a harsh climate, distinctive mining town moonscape, the only underground campground in the world, the BIG Winch and just up the road, the longest man-made structure on earth – the Dog Fence!

It’s not short of natural attractions either, with the stunning natural landscape of the Breakaways a few kilometres down the road.

MORE About Coober Pedy and Opal Mining

8 The Cockle Train

Coastal Scenery near Victor Harbor, South Australia
Coastal Scenery near Victor Harbor, South Australia

It’s not just South Australia’s first railway line AND first public line laid with iron rails in Australia; this coastal railway line running from Goolwa to Victor Harbor is also unbelievably scenic.

Goolwa Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
Goolwa Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Break your journey and explore the stunning coastline at Middleton and Port Elliot; then take a stopover in Victor Harbor and take the horse-drawn carriage to Granite Island.

Back in Goolwa, there’s the Murray Mouth and Coorong – end of Australia’s longest river system (see top photo), and the chance to explore the wonderful coastline visible from the train.

MORE about Goolwa and the Cockle Train

9 Farina Bakery

The Underground Bakery, the Marquee and a random ruined fireplace!  Farina, South Australia
The Underground Bakery, the Marquee and a random ruined fireplace!  Farina, South Australia

7 hours north of Adelaide, the driest part of the driest state of the driest continent on earth isn’t the most logical place to set up a town to service a fledgling wheat-growing industry. Maybe that’s why Farina is now a ghost town – except for a few weeks in May, June and July when the Farina Restoration Group move on-site. But historic site restoration isn’t the only attraction on offer at Farina – one of the first buildings to be restored was the smokin’ HOT Farina Bakery! All the better for being so unexpected, the Bakery’s volunteer bakers turn out an extraordinary amount of perfectly baked goods in the middle of the Outback!

In 2020, the Farina Bakery is open from 23rd May to 19th July!  Don’t miss it!!

MORE about Farina Bakery

10 The Heysen Trail

Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges
Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge, Northern Flinders Ranges

One of Australia’s Great Walks, the 1200 km Heysen Trail is a great way to see the best of South Australia. And if you haven’t got a spare 60 days to do the whole walk, then use the route map as a guide, choose a few sections in areas like the Barossa Valley, Mount Lofty Ranges, the Mid North and Flinders Ranges and see the highlights on foot. There’s something for everyone on this trek!  Starting in Parachilna Gorge and ending at Fleurieu Peninsula coastal town Jervis Bay, the walk is named for legendary artist Sir Hans Heysen, whose works showcase the beauty and diversity of South Australia.

MORE about the Heysen Trail

 

 

 

 

Of course there are plenty more RED HOT South Australian experiences to be had, but you’ve got to start somewhere, right?  And if you’re ready for a South Australian adventure, take a look at the best flights and get started!

Have YOU been to South Australia? Do share YOUR favourite things to do in South Australia in the comments below!!

The Granites, South Australia
The Granites and an RV that just WOULD NOT get out of the way, South Australia

PSSST!  MORE South Australia Photos on Flickr!

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OZ Top Spot #12 – Naracoorte Caves National Park, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/01/oz-top-spot-12-naracoorte-caves-national-park-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/01/oz-top-spot-12-naracoorte-caves-national-park-south-australia/#comments Fri, 06 Jan 2012 01:32:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=161 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The dim yellow light cast a long dark shadow flickering balefully over the seeping rock as we descended deeper into the gloomy cavern. Treading carefully over the uneven rock floor, we dodged the oozing columns towering high above as we rounded the corner to leave the daylight behind. Channelling ‘Becky’ to Pilchard’s ‘Tom Sawyer’ in a weird re-enactment of Mark[...]

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Thylacoleo carnifex, Australia's lion! Naracoorte Caves, South Australia
Thylacoleo carnifex, Australia’s lion! Naracoorte Caves, South Australia #

The dim yellow light cast a long dark shadow flickering balefully over the seeping rock as we descended deeper into the gloomy cavern. Treading carefully over the uneven rock floor, we dodged the oozing columns towering high above as we rounded the corner to leave the daylight behind.

Channelling ‘Becky’ to Pilchard’s ‘Tom Sawyer’ in a weird re-enactment of Mark Twain’s classic*, I half expected ‘Injun Joe’ to materialise from the shadows and scare us witless. But here, the menace was far more sinister …

Victoria Cave, Naracoorte, South Australia #
Victoria Cave, Naracoorte, South Australia #

Did I mention we were in a cave?

A light flickered to life and I gasped involuntarily as an ominous silhouette emerged from the semidarkness.

Stalagmite, Naracoorte Caves, SA
Stalagmite, Naracoorte Caves, SA

Thylacoleo carnifex, Australia’s own lion, bizarrely amplified by the shadow of his skeleton, face frozen forever in a snarl of despair. As it would if one’s prehistoric life had been cut short by falling through the roof of this subterranean system of limestone caves. At least, that’s probably what happened …

Did I mention we were on a tour??

Those who, like me, find the concept of Ice-Age Megafauna both fascinating and terrifying will likely find the Naracoorte Caves National Park – and Australian Fossil Mammal site – an intriguing glimpse into the past. And one not seen by many! Despite its World Heritage Status, this little-known National Park with Australia’s most complete fossil record of Pleistocene megafauna tucked away in the wilds of South Australia is unknown to many Australians.

Did I mention that megafauna are now extinct???

But it wasn’t megafauna that posed the biggest threat to our equilibrium during our April 2009 visit. Just down the road from the Wonambi Fossil Centre, the well maintained campground has all sorts of native fauna up close – including the voracious and unwelcome mosquitoes!! Plugging the gaps in our camper trailer canvas with tissues kept most of them out in the end – although happily, Pilchard’s mosquito magnet qualities kept them from me anyway …

Wonambi Fossil Centre Campground, Naracoorte SA
Wonambi Fossil Centre Campground, Naracoorte SA

Although the nearby – and aptly named – ‘Mosquito Creek’ should have provided a clue when we set up camp for a few days!!

While it’s unknown why megafauna no longer roam this corner of the continent, the well preserved skeletons of over 120 vertebrate species found so far in the caves may one day provide a clue. However, while the risk of death by megafauna is now nil, the good old Aussie Wombat– smaller descendant of Diprotodon – provides a more subtle threat to the unwary. While this benign looking marsupial is unlikely to attack**, stepping in its underground burrow may result in a nasty injury!

Reflections in Victoria Fossil Cave, Naracoorte, South Australia
Reflections in Victoria Fossil Cave, Naracoorte, South Australia#

Far better to explore the four main caves and Wonambi Fossil Centre – part of Australia’s biggest Volcanic Province, the Kanawinka Geopark; and all within easy walking distance of the campground. The variety of self-guided and guided tours will meet most visitor requirements. With the possible exception of the very claustrophobic …

Back in the Victoria Fossil Cave, we left Thylacoleo behind to admire a mirror-like pool and the magical stalagmite and stalactite formations. The malevolent megafauna menace had passed. Peace reigned.

Until we emerged back into daylight and to a nasty yapping little dog disturbing the peace in the carpark, and we wished that the megafauna would arise once more!

Just for a moment …

** Although I’m the only person I know who’s been bitten by a wombat!!
# Pix by Pilchard

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