Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either.

I checked my watch. Only 10:30 am and we were done with the driving for the day.

Damn! How did I turn into a Grey Nomad* without noticing?!

The Victoria River – Australia’s WILDEST – is over 200 km (~120 miles) of sensational scenery, rugged ranges and wall to wall crocodiles. And as well as spectacular natural attractions, the region has an intriguing blend of Indigenous, Colonial and Military history. We’d seen part of the area the day before at the Victoria River Roadhouse.

So the bonus of arriving so early meant loads of time to explore the rest.

Just as well, because there’s a helluva lot to see!

1 The Crocodiles

Pilchard and I saw more crocodiles in two days than in all our previous crocodile sightings combined. And when I add all the crocs we’ve seen since then? This town’s still WAY out in front.

Crocodiles don’t actually go to heaven – they just head north to Timber Creek!

Because if you’re a crocodile, what’s NOT to love about Timber Creek?

If you’re a freshie**, hang out in the creek behind the caravan park and get fed by a gaggle of tourists EVERY NIGHT!

And if you’re a saltie*** the Victoria River is a croc-heaven takeaway with cattle from the stations, wallabies and other wildlife feeding along the banks, and boatloads of barramundi fisherfolk who make catching a big one for dinner REALLY easy!

PLEASE NOTE: Practice crocodile safety on and near waterways. All my crocodile photos were taken from a croc-proof boat and pontoon on the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise!

2 Cruising Australia’s Wildest River

There’s something about eating a sensational array of snacks and enjoying a drink while watching a superb sunset sink into a crocodile-infested river. Something that makes you want to – well, YOU know!

So where DO you go when nature calls and you’re surrounded by crocodiles on Australia’s wildest river? To one of Australia’s most scenic and unusual toilets, of course!

Yes, it’s in MY BOOK (click right HERE to got there)!

The pontoon potty is just one (VERY good) reason to take the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise. It’s a 3 hour 70 kilometre journey into the heart of the Top End with local guide Neville Fogarty in his purpose built croc proof boat – the Fleetwing – to a pontoon perfectly positioned to showcase the sights.

And see as many crocodiles as you’re likely to see anywhere outside a crocodile farm!

(BONUS EXTRA: Read about Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River HERE)

3 History and Heritage

The Crocodile cruise isn’t just about the crocs. Before we get anywhere near the river, we’ve had a mini-town tour, fascinating history lesson, and a pit stop at the local museum. But the croc cruise gets back after sunset, so we stay another day to see what we’ve missed.

I didn’t know anything about how to take fingerprints correctly until I entered the heritage listed Police Station Museum, also home to other quirky memorabilia like a Furphy; and a kangaroo hide bed where Neville Fogarty (croc tour man) apparently once slept!

But reminders of more shameful past episodes are in the shackle and chain for Aboriginal prisoners still attached to a tree, and the holding cell in the front yard.

And who knew about the Nackeroos, ‘Bush Commandos’ with a platoon stationed at Timber Creek after the Top End was bombed by the Japanese during World War Two? I certainly didn’t, but the escarpment memorial tells of the hardships faced in defending Australia’s coastline in this wild and remote area, and the great respect for the skills of the local Aboriginal people working with and as part of the Nackeroos.

But the Nackeroos weren’t the last of the military activity in the area …

4 The Bridge to Nowhere

If you’ve seen the super-highway-like Bridge to Nowhere spanning the Victoria River you’re probably questioning my judgement about recommending it as a Timber Creek attraction.

Especially if I say the bridge was a highlight of our visit!

The bridge doesn’t REALLY go to nowhere – it just goes to nowhere the average person is allowed to go ie the Bradshaw Field Training Area. If in any doubt about entering, there’s a few handy hints that’ll make your unwelcomeness perfectly clear.

Like the massive gate with padlocks and spikes.

And the four separate signs with different messages that make even a croc seem friendly.

Cool, huh?!

But quite apart from anything else, the bridge – across which you’re quite welcome to walk – is one of the best places from which to appreciate the grandeur of the Victoria River!

5 Judbarra/Gregory National Park

When I first saw the Gregory Tree, it was overlooking a crocodile from high on the banks of the Victoria River.

I was checking out the same crocodile from just above the waterline on the croc-proof cruiser. I’m not sure who had the best view, but there were no crocs in sight when I saw the tree up close the next day.

It’s just part of the 13000² km Gregory National Park, named for explorer Augustus Charles Gregory, whose expedition passed through in the mid 1800’s. And although graffitti artist Gregory left the travel dates inscribed on the tree, it’s considered ‘historic’, rather than vandalism! There’s nothing to say how the local Ngaringman Aboriginal people felt about Gregory defacing the tree – it’s also registered as a sacred site.

We explored the eastern section of the park the day before from the Victoria River Roadhouse, 90 km east. Don’t miss the fantastic Joe Creek walk through Livistona Palms, and the amazing view from the Escarpment Lookout.

The western section extends quite a long way south of Timber Creek, with 4WD tracks to the old station homestead, gorges campgrounds and fishing spots. The tracks even join up with the Buntine Highway, an alternative route into Western Australia – which isn’t that far away from Timber Creek!

Tragically, the only part of the western section I saw was the Gregory Tree – but that’s what ‘next time’ is for, right?

(BONUS Extra: Read about the Joe Creek Walk and Escarpment Lookout HERE!)

Timber Creek may be small but has a LOT of attractions that make it a TOP Aussie Town!. So if you’re thinking of giving it a miss, think again and get there early – because sometimes acting like a grey nomad pays off!

5 things to do in Timber Creek on an overnight stay:

• Crocodile Cruise on the Victoria River
• Drive to Policemans Point Lookout
• Walk the Heritage Trail
• Watch the Sunset from the Escarpment Lookout
• Feed the Crocodiles at the Circle F Caravan Park

5 more things to do in Timber Creek:

• Tour the Historic Police Station Museum
• Cross the Victoria River on the Bridge to Nowhere
• Drive out to the Gregory Tree
• See Limestone Gorge in Gregory National Park’s western section
• Walk Joe Creek and the Escarpment Lookout trails near Victoria River Roadhouse in Gregory National Park’s eastern section

Timber Creek Fast Facts!

Where: Timber Creek is ~285 km west of Katherine; 90 km west of the Victoria River Roadhouse; 225 km east of Kununurra on the Victoria Highway.

When to Go: Temperatures are lower with less humidity during the Dry season from June to November. 4WD tracks and other attractions are closed during the Wet Season when rains commence around December and re-open around May depending on the amount of rain.

Where to Stay: We stayed at the Circle F Caravan Park attached to Fogarty’s Store and the Timber Creek Hotel, also with cabins and motel accomodation. The Big Horse campground is near the boat ramp. Gregory National Park has several campgrounds.

What’s There: Timber Creek facilities include accommodation, fuel, food, banking, vehicle repairs, emergency medical services and an airstrip.

*In our experience of travelling with the Southern Grey Nomad, we’ve observed that they’re often at their destination by lunch time. The rest of the day is spent setting up and preparing for happy hour! That’s not a criticism – it’s just the way it is – but such a short travel time meant that maybe, just MAYBE we were becoming more like them :-O

** Freshies = Freshwater crocodiles, the smaller, less aggressive Crocodylus johnstoni

*** Salties = Saltwater crocodiles (aka estuarine crocodiles), the much larger, VERY much more aggressive Crocodylus porosus

Want MORE?

• Timber Creek
• Victoria River Cruises
• Judbarra/Gregory National Park
• More about the Nackeroos
• MORE Photos of the Victoria River Region on Flickr

Previous Post: World Toilet Day: Red’s TOP 10 Scenic Aussie Loos

The post 5 Reasons why Timber Creek is a TOP Aussie Town! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

For an isolated city, rebuilt twice after being bombed (WWII) destroyed by a tropical cyclone (1974); regularly washed by massive 7 metre tides and monsoonal floods; and hosting a high proportion of dangerous and deadly wildlife; Darwin’s looking mighty fine these days.

At least to a fair-weather traveller like me – my visit was during the more activity-friendly dry season, when the average daily maximum temperature is only around 30º C! But there’s no shame in taking the easy way out, is there?

Whether you’ve road-tripped from Adelaide to Darwin, taken the train, or flown in, you’ll be ready for some tropical Darwin R&R! Here’s a teaser of 10 TOP things to do in Darwin – just to get you started!

1 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve

OK, Ok, ok. So you DON’T see the attraction of a crocodile, snake and mosquito-infested swamp? How about if I call it a wetland, teeming with wildlife?

Fogg Dam was so intriguing we visited twice. Once during the day for a walk across the dam wall, watching thousands of birds feed among the waterlilies. Climbing up into the vantage point on the dam’s far side gave an even better perspective – and the chance to cool down before returning across the wall.

And then we did the night walk. That’s when the crocs, snakes and mosquitoes made their appearance!

MORE about Fogg Dam

2 Territory Wildlife Park

I’ll always remember the Territory Wildlife Park, around 60 km south of Darwin, as the place where I caught my first barra. Barramundi, that is, and the prize craved by all true Aussie Fishermen. And women.

But if you think something’s wrong with this picture, you’re right … and you can get one just like it in exactly the same spot!

For a great day out and a chance to see the REAL creatures of the Territory in their natural (albeit well-constructed) habitats – like the Billabong, Nocturnal House and Aviaries – study the park’s schedule of activities – wild birds, croc feeding and the like – carefully. Then check the park’s bus timetables to get from venue to venue because this park is HUGE!

MORE about the Territory Wildlife Park

3 Australian Aviation Heritage Centre

I didn’t think I’d spend more than half an hour or so at the Aviation Museum – we were really only going in memory of Pilchard’s late father who’d been there a few years before and sung its praises. But 5 hours – and many intriguing facts – later, I was still going strong.

This is Australian aviation history at its best with a matching array of 19 aircraft (including one of only two B52 Bombers outside of the US); regular screenings of aviation videos; displays of historic aviation memorabilia; and information stations – I’d heard of Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson, but who’d ever heard of Jessie Maude ‘Chubbie’ Miller? Not me!  Now THERE’S a story waiting to be told …

I went in to the musuem not caring one way or another about planes. But I came out a newly-minted aviation nerd (well … almost!).

MORE about the Darwin Aviation Museum

4 Howard Springs and Berry Springs Nature Parks

The quest for shade and a place to go swimming is hardly surprising in a city that’s hot all year round. But factoring in the Top End’s natural swimming hazards – ie nasties like Crocodiles – shrinks the number of safe swimming spots considerably.

That’s why the shallow rock pools of Howard Springs Nature Park, 35 km south of the City; and the deeper pools of the Berry Springs Nature Park, ~60 km south, are so popular, especially with the added attractions of walks and picnic facilities.

MORE about Berry Springs Nature Park and Howard Springs Nature Park

5 George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

Although there are regular sightings of Rufous Owl in the 130 year old Darwin Botanic Gardens, we had to make do with its other attractions as the owls remained elusive during our visit.

Luckily, there’s a lot more to see in this well-planned and varied 42 hectare park stretching from the sea to a small escarpment, one of the few in the world with naturally occurring marine and estuarine plants.

A network of walking trails winds through habitats like Rainforest Gully, the Baobab Collection, the exotic flora of the Plant Display House, a former church, and a boardwalk through the Mangroves.

But for MY money, don’t miss the Desert Rose display! Awesome!!

MORE about the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

6 Aquascene and Doctor’s Gully

Spotting AND hand-feeding a frenzy of local fish (yes, that’s a new collective noun) in historic Doctor’s Gully at high tide is a sure thing. A tradition of hand-feeding for over 60 years old (Woo Hoo! WAAAY older than me!) means the fish continue turn up in ever increasing numbers – AND numbers of species – to forage for bread.

It’s not that hard with multiple tourists lining the shores at high tide. The fish ALMOST overshadow the sensational views across the harbour!

Doctor’s Gully, the site of Peel’s Well – Darwin’s first fresh water supply – and Chinese market gardens, is worth exploring too. And if you’re a sucker for kitsch like me, you’ll grab an Aquascene pen with a travelling fish inside it on the way out!

MORE about Aquascene

7 Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

As much a community event as a market, groups of picnicking locals set up their tables and chairs on the beach, eating, drinking and watching the the sun sink into the gulf.

The markets were in full swing behind me as I watched Pearl Lugger turned cruise boat cross the setting sun – the only object visible on the water. After the free presentation at the caravan park I’d thought a swim at the beach was one of the Darwin things to do.

But despite the warm evening no one was actually in the water.

‘Does anyone go swimming here?’ I asked, like the naïve tourist I was. ‘Nah, love. Too many crocs,’ came the reply. ‘And it’s too cold,’ another local commented.

Well, that left me with only one course of action to take. A shopping frenzy from the market stalls followed by a total pig-out at the food stalls. The swim could wait for another time! And place

MORE about Darwin’s Markets

8 Jumping Crocodiles

Our Jumping Crocodile Cruise wasn’t just memorable for the crocs. 75 minutes drive east of Darwin and we had a few minutes to kill while waiting for our Adelaide River cruise boat. What better way to pass the time than to check out our fellow passengers??

Sadly, little guidance exists for those unsure about what to wear to a crocodile viewing – we’d chosen the safe option of shorts and T-shirts. Not so the young woman in an outfit that combined the best (or worst) of Heidi and Morticia Addams! Even more sadly, I failed to capture it on film.

But even these dubious charms weren’t enough to distract us once the crocodiles started jumping!

Experience a prehistoric predator much closer to Darwin – try the Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove or hold a croc at Crocodylus Park and Zoo!

MORE about our Jumping Crocodiles adventure (and Heidi/Morticia)

9 Litchfield National Park

Not everyone visits the magnificent tropical Litchfield National Park for the termite mounds. Some people actually travel the 112 km south of Darwin to experience the wonderful array of waterfalls, inviting selection of swimming holes and network of short walks to most of the major attractions.

But I’ll bet everyone’s got a photo like THIS!

MORE about Litchfield National Park

10 Mandorah

On our last day in Darwin, we tossed up between a Harbour Cruise or a 15 minute ferry ride across the harbour to Mandorah. I’m sure I would have been happy with the harbour cruise, but boy, am I glad we chose magnificent Mandorah!

Lunch at the Mandorah pub was all Barramundi Burgers, refreshing cider and Bob Marley in the background. If we’d ordered up our own vision of tropical paradise, it wouldn’t have been much different to this!

MORE about Mandorah

There’s a lot more things to do in Darwin than this teaser TOP Ten!

If you’ve got the time (and energy!) try the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory for the chilling Cyclone Tracy simulation; East Point Military Museum for insight into the bombing of Darwin in WWII; and a short drive south to the Adelaide River War Memorial.

Enjoy the water by hanging out at the Waterfront or the Wave Pool, or take a Harbour Cruise for harbour highlights or a Sunset cruise for drinks – or romance. And for a REAL taste of the Territory, be in Darwin for the annual Beer Can Regatta – 12^th July in 2015!

Then there’s the festivals … but wait! You’ll have to discover it all for yourself!!  These best flights will get you there!

* Pics by Pilchard

Want MORE?

• Darwin
• Top End
• Northern Territory

The post 10 TOP Things to Do in Darwin, Top End appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

‘There it is,’ shouted Pilchard, pointing towards the bank. I looked, but there was only an old tyre on the edge of the water nestled in the grass. Typical bloke. All excited about nothing. The boat moved closer to the river banks.

‘Where?’ I whined as cameras clicked all around me. Damn! If everyone else could see a monster crocodile, why couldn’t I? The boat edged even closer, heading right for the tyre on the grass.

‘There! There!’ Pilchard stabbed the air in a pointing frenzy. ‘If you can’t see it now, I can’t help you,’ he eventually shrugged, lifting his binoculars.

‘All I can see is that old tyre,’ I said, readying my camera anyway.

‘Look again! That’s NOT a tyre,’ Pilchard laughed as it finally clicked. And so did my camera. Better late than never, huh?

Half an hour later I’d seen more crocodiles than in the rest of my whole life AND Pilchards put together.

A lot of the bigger ones had names. Lord Lizard. Whitey. Old Broken Jaw.

Weirdly, there weren’t any called Freakin’ Scary.

There should have been.

As six scary metres (nearly 20 feet) of leather-coated muscle, razor sharp teeth and pre-historic cunning slid silently into the current swirling around our cruise boat on the Victoria River we waited for those cold yellow eyes to appear in the brownish water downstream.

They didn’t.

If he (yes, I’ve assumed this macho melange of features to be male) surfaced directly under us, it SO wouldn’t be a good time to find out the purpose-built M.V Fleetwing wasn’t croc-proof! But that was just one of the hazards of taking a tour into the wilderness along the Northern Territory’s Victoria River – arguably Australia’s wildest.

The high crocodile count so far wasn’t doing anything to disprove it.

And neither was the scenery. As we raced 35 km (~22 miles) down the river towards our date with a Northern Territory sunset, the late afternoon glow was already lighting up the cliffs and escarpments of the wild and remote Yambarrin Ranges above the rivers broad, brown expanse.

Yes, brown. Just perfect for a crocodile to disappear in …

But the Victoria River Sunset Cruise isn’t just about crocodiles. Or sunset. From the Croc Stock Shop, owned and run by locals Meredith and Neville Fogarty, the 1971 bus took a roundabout route to the jetty at Big Horse Creek via some of the historic points of interest in and around Timber Creek.

So if the Suicide Tree, Timber Creek Musuem, Gregory’s Tree, Policeman’s Point, Live Croc feeding at the caravan park and the Bradshaw Field Training Area’s Bridge to Nowhere – with its vast array of signs warning of the horrible things that could, and WOULD happen to trespassers – sound intriguing to you, you’ll know why we stayed an extra day to explore. And if you stay tuned to this blog, you’ll eventually find out all about them AND get to read about our nightmare camper from hell story!

But I digress …

The Victoria River doesn’t discriminate between Australia’s two crocodile species, and neither do I. They’re BOTH scary – although the

smaller freshwater croc isn’t known for its murderous tendencies towards humans. So despite the distractions of the superb Top End dry season scenery, I kept my eyes on the water.

As we passed the gravel islands and sandbanks mid-river, the massive saltwater crocodiles we’d seen earlier gave way to the smaller freshies.

Was it a coincidence that the bird life increased, with Jabiru (actual name Black-necked Stork), White-bellied Sea Eagles, Whistling Kites – and the strange sight of an Australasian Bustard in full flight?

The croc sightings of any variety dropped off altogether as we drew level with the mid-river pontoon – another purpose-built structure surrounded by a cage of the extra-strength wire mesh that (we hoped) made it croc-proof. But this, and the superb array of hot and cold nibbles and drinks weren’t the only things to make this sunset memorable.

What do you do when nature calls and you’re in the middle of the wildest – and probably most crocodile-infested – river in Australia?

You visit the pontoon loo – scenic enough to deserve its own post AND one of the coveted spots in my book – of course!

As we drank in our drinks, inhaled the superb array of hot and cold snacks and drank in the awesome scenery, the sun set in a blaze of gold against the clear sky, it’s final rays silhouetting the dramatic escarpment reflected in the river below. A houseboat floated over by the river banks and wallabies grazed on the grassy river flats downstream.

Magical. Memorable. Magnificent.

‘Wouldn’t it be great if a crocodile took one of those wallabies?’ a fellow passenger, drink in hand, stage-whispered to her husband, breaking the hushed silence.

Silly me.

Of COURSE that’s just what a panorama like the one above needed to bring it alive! Seeing a defenceless animal massacred by a crocodile right in front of us against that awesome backdrop of setting sun, ragged mountains and broad river would be the perfect way to round out the most sensational sunset experience ever. Wouldn’t it?!?!

NOT!

I guess I just don’t have that bloodthirsty gene.

Anyway, everyone knows the Victoria River crocs are too well fed! Taking the cattle from the local stations as they graze the river banks is a cinch. And stealing barramundi straight off the line if the fisherfolk are too slow to bring them in is too easy.

Who needs a wallaby-hors-d’oeuvre anyway?

All too soon our time was up and we reluctantly finished up the snacks, left the loo behind and the wallabies intact and jetted back down the river with the sun’s last rays at our backs as the moon rose ahead.

If I hadn’t been too busy taking photos of the incredible scenery, I may have seen another crocodile – or two or three.

But by then I didn’t care.

Want your own croc experience but don’t have any transport?  Start here with the best flights!

Fast Facts:

What: The Victoria River Cruise 3½ hour, 70 km round trip Sunset Wilderness Cruise

Where: Timber Creek, 285 km SW from Katherine along the Victoria Highway, Northern Territory

When: Daily from April to September (see website for exact dates)

Cost: $95 per adult, $50 per child (as at 13/2/15)

How to get there: Self-drive to Timber Creek from Darwin or Katherine from the east; Kununurra from the west. Or get up north REAL quick by checking out these cheap flights!

Want MORE?

• Victoria River Cruise via Timber Creek, Northern Territory
• Victoria River Roadhouse, Northern Territory
• RedzAustralia Crocodile Hot Spots
• MORE Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

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Disclosure: Pilchard and I booked and paid full price for our Victoria River Sunset cruise and did not ask for or receive any discounts or concessions.

The post Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Does it REALLY take 7 days to drive the ~3000 km from Adelaide to Darwin?

Only if you want to see a few sights along the way on a REAL adventure! Driving yourself is the best option (try Car hire if your vehicle isn’t up to scratch) to experience a cross-section of Australia’s unique countryside from the dry south, through the Red Centre deserts to the lush tropical north!

AND come to terms with the vast distances that road-tripping in Australia demands!

So follow my rough guide from Adelaide to Darwin via Uluru – with LOADS of optional extras! BUT … be warned! It might just mean your epic trek takes a few extra days!!

Day 1: Adelaide to Woomera

Distance: 487 km

Driving Time: 5½ – 6 hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Varied. After leaving Adelaide, drive through the scenic Clare Valley wine region; then along the edge of the Flinders Ranges to Pt Augusta. At this point, you’re still on the Adelaide Geosyncline (yes, I’m showing off!)(Dad, are you reading this??) landform.

It’s all Outback from Pt Augusta, and the drive along the Stuart Shelf, an extension of the Adelaide Geosyncline, is unremarkable but for some unexpectedly spectacular land formations.

Points of Interest:

• Salt Lakes and Claypans, including Pernatty Lagoon and Lake Windabout
• Island Lagoon Lookout (above) and Nurrungar – now closed, this joint US/OZ facility was the site of several protests, most notably by current Senator Peter Garrett, one-time front man for Aussie rock band Midnight Oil
• Woomera Heritage Centre & Missile Park within the western world’s largest land-based missile and rocket range

Enter the Woomera Prohibited Area (well … it gave ME a thrill!) 7 km off the highway from Pimba. The outdoor missile park’s unusual collection of relics from rocket range days is all the more bizarre for its location.

The Heritage Centre’s excellent displays show the fascinating heritage of this little town on the edge of nowhere that has variously included the Rocket Range, NASA Deep Space Tracking Station and a controversial Asylum Seeker detention centre.

READ: More about Woomera

Options:

• Spend an extra day exploring Woomera and nearby Roxby Downs, built in 1988 to support Olympic Dam – Australia’s largest underground silver and copper mine
• Combine Days 1 & 2 (be warned – that’s a LONG day) and save Woomera for another visit

Day 2: Woomera to Coober Pedy

Distance: 365 km

Driving Time: 4 hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Central Tablelands, with mesas, low hills and salt lakes before reaching the Stuart Range near Coober Pedy, where the landscape is dominated by mullock heaps.

Points of Interest:

• Lake Hart – either a saltpan so white it’ll hurt your eyes; or an oasis in the outback full of water!
• Glendambo Roadhouse complex and service centre – only place for fuel and food this leg of the trip
• Coober Pedy Mullock Heaps; Underground buildings and accommodation; and opal!

While passing Glendambo, spare a thought for Pilchard & I as we inched towards Glendambo after car trouble struck heading south just over half way from Coober Pedy in 2004.

The most compelling argument I can think of for a) carrying water and b) having paid up Road Assistance membership, with a blown head-gasket, the car was, as the mechanic put it in technical terms, ‘stuffed’.

Although he used a different word.

Road Assist paid for a) a motel unit; b) bus fares to Adelaide; c) trucking the car to Adelaide for repair; and d) general expenses. I still shudder to think how much we’d have been out of pocket – so DON’T leave home without it!

Staying in Coober Pedy’s underground accommodation isn’t for the claustrophobic – but IS something to experience at least once!  It’s even got the world’s only underground campground (or so I’ve been told). And looking for Opal, either in the tourist ‘noodling’ area OR ‘finding’ it at the nearest opal showroom can be very rewarding!!

Options: Stay another night and tour the nearby Breakaways and Painted Desert; the underground churches; and a working opal mine. Then take a round of golf at the Coober Pedy Golf Course. It DOES offer reciprocal rights to world famous St Andrews in Scotland after all!!

READ: More about Coober Pedy

Day 3: Coober Pedy to Uluru

Distance: 750 km

Driving Time: 8 – 8½ hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Varied. Once past the mullock heaps, red sandy soil and vegetation cover low hills, then the Indulkana range past Marla. Across the border, granite outcrops before entering the Amadeus basin, a former seabed.

Points of Interest:

• The Dog Fence – longest man-made structure in the world!
• Cadney Park and Marla Roadhouses
• South Australia/Northern Territory Border
• Sturt’s Desert Peas, depending on time of year
• Kulgera Roadhouse
• Erldunda Roadhouse – a giant, caged echidna near the car park was once a prop for Expo
• Mt Connor, sometimes mistaken for Uluru
• Uluru and Kata Tjuta

Start early for a long day because – trust me on this – you DON’T want to drive at night! There’ll be enough opportunities to hit stray wildlife during the day, when at least you can (mostly) see it coming!

Turn off to Uluru at the Erldunda Roadhouse. Mt Connor, at Curtin Springs station, is often mistaken for Uluru and is a tourist attraction in its own right. But there’s no mistaking the vast bulk of the world’s biggest monolith as it glows in the setting sun.

READ: More about Uluru and Central Australia

Options:

• Stay an extra night to explore Uluru and Kata Tjuta more thoroughly.
• Alternatively, take a detour to the remarkable Kings Canyon, and relive one of the more memorable scenes from cult Australian movie ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert’!

Day 4: Uluru to Alice Springs

Distance: 465 km

Driving Time: 5 – 5½ hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Central Desert and ranges.

Points of Interest:

• Uluru and Kata Tjuta
• Henbury Meterorite Craters
• Rainbow Valley (detour)

Spend the morning exploring the amazing Uluru and Kata Tjuta formations before returning to Erldunda and heading north to the Stuarts Well Roadhouse for a bizarre, uniquely Australian experience!

Doesn’t EVERYONE want to see a singing, piano playing Dingo? STOP PRESS:  Tragically, Dinky has now retired.

But this means extra time to take the short detour to Rainbow Valley, right?!  Check road conditions at the Stuarts Well Roadhouse – the turnoff is 14 km north; then it’s another 23 km along a dirt road to Rainbow Valley.

READ: More about Stuarts Well; More about Rainbow Valley; More about Alice Springs

Options:

• Stay overnight at the Rainbow Valley campground!
• Factor in extra time to explore Alice Springs – it’ll take a LOT more than an overnight stay to see the sights!

Day 5: Alice Springs to Tennant Creek

Scenery: Spectacular ranges around Alice Springs, which flatten out into the grassy plains and rocky outcrops of the Barkly Tablelands.

Points of Interest:

• Alice Springs
• Aileron Roadhouse
• Wycliffe Well Roadhouse complex, once proclaimed Australia’s UFO capital
• Wauchope Hotel
• Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles)

Wycliffe Well Roadhouse’s unusual murals, strange otherworldly figurines and Elvis campsite are worth a look. Just up the road past the Wauchope Hotel are the Devils Marbles. While they’re at their best at sunrise or sunset, they’re worth stopping for any time!

Then it’s another hour or so up the road to gold mining town Tennant Creek.

READ: More about Wycliffe Well; More about Devils Marbles; More about Tennant Creek

Options:

• Stay overnight at Wycliffe Well, Wauchope or the Devils Marbles campground for sunset/sunrise shots of the Devils Marbles. Tennant Creek is 106 km north.

Day 6: Tennant Creek to Katherine

Distance: 673 km

Driving Time: 7 – 7½ hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Barkly Tablelands grasslands and cattle station country continue to Newcastle Waters. Tropical vegetation hides many relics from World War II, before the lush tropics of Mataranka and its thermal pools.

Points of Interest:

• Kunjarra (The Pebbles), a smaller version of the Devils Marbles
• Cattle Stations, Roadhouses and small towns including Banka Banka, Renner Springs, Elliott, Dunmarra, Larrimah
• Daly Waters Pub – a popular traveller stopover with meals and entertainment
• World War 2 Memorabilia and outposts
• Mataranka and Bitter Springs Thermal Pools – once part of Elsey Station, where the events of Mrs Aeneas Gunn’s classic Australian memoir ‘We of the Never Never’ took place.

Busy Katherine, on the edge of Nitmiluk National Park (also known as Katherine Gorge), is a crossroads and stocking-up point for travellers heading west to Kununurra or east to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The thermal pools just out of town are a popular gathering point at the end of a long day on the road.

 

READ: More about Katherine

Options: Stay 100 km south of Katherine at Bitter Springs, and soak in its famous thermal pools. Who could resist seeing the world’s biggest man-made termite mound in Mataranka’s main street? It even TALKS!

Day 7: Katherine to Darwin

Distance: 316 km

Driving Time: 3½ – 4 hours (allow extra time for rest, food and sightseeing stops)

Scenery: Tropical

Points of Interest:

• Cutta Cutta Caves
• Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)
• Historic Pine Creek
• Adelaide River’s Historic Railway and War Cemetery
• Batchelor – Gateway to Litchfield National Park

Take a morning tour to Katherine Gorge or nearby Cutta Cutta Caves before completing the drive to Darwin. Although there’s lots to tempt the inquisitive along the way!

READ: More about Darwin & the Top End

Options:

• Stay an extra day to explore the Katherine Region more thoroughly, including the Gorge, and the marvellous Edith Falls just north of Katherine, for swimming and bushwalking.
• Take the scenic route through Kakadu National Park to, with its distinctive landmarks, walks, tours and scenic attractions to Jabiru, then via Mary River and Humpty Doo to Darwin.
• Stay an extra day in Batchelor and explore the natural wonders of Litchfield National Park!

Darwin is an adventure in itself so you might want to consider an open-ended car rental arrangement.  But of course it all depends on how much time you’ve got.

It’d be easy to spend a further week exploring this Top End wonderland – check out my TOP 10 Things to Do in Darwin HERE!

But if Darwin’s the end of the line, all you’ve got to do is fly or drive somewhere else!

Like continuing your road trip – try my 7 Days from Darwin to Broome itinerary!

The post 7 Days … from Adelaide to Darwin! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I hadn’t suspected the otherworldly limestone Karst country we’d crossed en route from the Visitor Centre to the Cutta Cutta Caves entrance to be a portal to a parallel universe.

But had we inadvertently stumbled into a casting call for a bad B-grade movie?

For now, waiting for our guide at the stairs leading down to the locked entry gate were an older couple (not us!!!) hung about with a ballast of camera equipment; a bickering honeymoon couple resplendent in ‘resort’ gear; two tanned and muscular young men travelling together in some ambiguous capacity; a young family with two hyperactive sons; and us.

Coincidence? Maybe.

Or was this demographically diverse group tailor made for the kind of film where an unknown threat would pick us off one by one??

I could imagine the story-board now. ‘What terrors await this eclectic ensemble of offbeat characters as they’re led into the bowels of an unlit cave by a guide who holds the only key …’

Maybe I was just being paranoid. Or ‘going troppo’ as they say in northern Australia’s Top End!

But then we met our guide.

Materialising through the shimmering heat waves of the limestone formations between the Visitor Centre and the cave entrance, Nathan* – complete with an increasingly macabre dry wit – was a gift from B-grade schlock-horror central casting.

Brandishing an oversized key, he unlocked the gate and led us through. Then, with a clang, it slammed shut behind us and he padlocked the steel mesh frame securely, gesturing us down into the gloom below.

Padlocked? What could we possibly need protection from down there??

As we descended into the depths, ducking to avoid being knocked out on the sometimes low roof, Nathan entertained us by pointing out potential catastrophes along the narrow track that wound between the sometimes spectacular limestone formations, stalactites and stalagmites.

‘It’s only two metres to the surface at this point,’ he stated, pointing up to the rocky cave ceiling. ‘So the roof could cave in on top of us,’ he continued, pausing for effect. ‘But not today!’

How did he know?!

But the plot was starting to sound horribly familiar. I think I knew how this story ended – and it didn’t end well for me.

The Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park, a popular Katherine attraction and billed as the Northern Territory’s ONLY publicly accessible tropical limestone cave, is a mere 27 km out of town. However, it generally takes second billing to the far better known Nitmiluk National Park, aka Katherine Gorge.

During the Australian winter when it’s peak tourist season in the Northern Territory, Park rangers conduct regular tours through the caves. Arriving without a booking, we’d lucked out – or so we thought – by being assigned to Nathan’s tour.

He was certainly holding our interest with his ghoulish wisecracks. So much so I’d forgotten to watch for the rare ghost and horseshoe bats found in the caves. I hadn’t forgotten about the brown tree snakes, however, despite their ‘harmless’ status. But so far they hadn’t shown themselves. Result!

A little further along Nathan told us how early in the 1990’s the non-indigenous stockman who found the caves while searching for missing stock named them ‘Smith’s Caves’ – after … wait for it … himself! Who would have thought?

A death-trap for wandering creatures who fell through the roof to become trapped in the caverns below, the cave now held a different kind of prey captive.

‘Who knows what might fall through next?’ Nathan wondered aloud, exaggeratedly glancing above to the cracked roof followed by anxious glances from the group. If nothing else, his macabre machinations was proving a fairly effective cure for hyperactivity as the children fell silent at last.

We admired the glittering limestone before nearing the end of the accessible part of the caves. How trustingly we’d let Nathan lure guide us into the cave! Now he had total control of the light switch. AND the only torch!

‘I’m going to turn out the lights to let you experience total darkness,’ Nathan said as he flipped the switch, plunging us into an all-enveloping blackness so deep and intense my skin seemed to be absorbing it.

Time passed.

‘Did you know that people can go mad after half an hour in complete darkness to which your eyes will NEVER adjust?’ Nathan’s voice spoke helpfully into the void. I felt a restless stirring in the group.

‘Because you start thinking about falling into a deeper hole.’ He paused to let the idea take hold.

‘Or about the snakes, spiders and bats.’ Pause. Was that something touching my foot?? My eyes tried again – and again failed – to adapt to the all-consuming blackness.

‘Or that perhaps you’ll never get out.’ Longer pause. That B-grade film plot now on endless replay through my mind was starting to seem a bit more realistic. And not just to me! Around me, the complete darkness filled with total silence.

I smacked down the ‘what if’ thoughts I was starting to have. How embarrassing would it be to be the first to go completely mad in the darkness? After only a few minutes??

Although aware of them, the caves apparently had no cultural significance for the local Indigenous people, the Jarwoyn and played no part in their rituals. But maybe that’s because this ghoulish grotto had gotten old real quick. It can’t have been any fun underground in pitch blackness with no electricity.

I now knew exactly what that felt like. But I wasn’t going to be the first to call out for the lights. The lights that may never come …

More time passed.

Then, without warning Nathan switched the lights back on, leaving a startled group exchanging sheepish glances with each other. He directed us back along the path towards the entrance, bringing up the rear as I stopped to take photos.

‘Has anyone ever freaked out in the total darkness?’ I asked.

‘No, but the lights failed once and I couldn’t switch them back on,’ he laughed – perhaps a little TOO readily. ‘And another time a lady got the giggles.’

Yes, all too sadly, I could appreciate that fine line between laughter and hysterics …

‘I think she appreciated my sense of humour,’ said Nathan.

But as my (of course) unwarranted fears vanished in the cold, hard, natural light of day, I too was left with an abiding appreciation of Nathan’s dark arts. His unique and refreshing departure from the usual – and sometimes dreary – delivery of facts and information made a memorable experience that only extreme age and/or an attack of amnesia could make me forget!

And as we returned along the path to the Visitor Centre, I enjoyed a cruel laugh as the next victims tour group picked its way through the Karst to keep their date with the Ghoulish Guide of Cutta Cutta Caves!

* Nathan – not his real name

Want MORE?

• Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park
• Katherine and surrounds, Northern Territory
• Limestone Karst

The post The Ghoulish Guide of Cutta Cutta Caves! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Maybe the multiple crocodile sightings did it.

Or the 70 km (~45 miles) cruise from the Timber Creek landing to the middle of nowhere.

Or perhaps the sunset drinks and snacks, taken incongruously in the middle of the crocodile-infested Victoria River were responsible.

Whatever it was, the public amenities on the purpose-built pontoon where we took a break from crocodile spotting to admire the staggering view were most welcome.

And while they’re not really PUBLIC – use of them comes with passage on the excellent Victoria River Cruise run by Timber Creek locals, Neville & Meredith Fogarty – they’re undeniably scenic!

With an added frisson of excitement – and uncertainty – from the crocs that may – or may not – be lurking all around.

After watching a couple of 5-6 metre crocodiles disappear from the riverbank into the water without a trace further upstream, the crocs could be anywhere!

And that included right under our pontoon!!

Praise be for heavy duty steel!!

But after an event-free hiatus aboard the pontoon – that is, if viewing the 360° splendid grandeur of Australia’s wildest river while eating a splendid spread of nibbles washed down with drinks doesn’t count as an ‘event’ – we returned to Timber Creek as the sun set and the moon rose over the river.

With a panorama so heart-stoppingly magnificent the crocs were forgotten!

This spectacular and unique scenic public toilet is one of 60 amazing loos from all around Australia featured in my book “Aussie Loos with Views!”

It’s a pleasure doing business here – and in all the others!  Have I included YOUR favourites?  Grab a copy and see for yourself!

Want MORE?

• Victoria River Cruises
• Timber Creek, Northern Territory
• 7 Crocodile Spotting Hot Spots in the Top End
• Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets

The post Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #29 – Crocodile Cruise Conveniences! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

I don’t know what made us decide to stay overnight at the Victoria River Roadhouse as we pulled in for fuel, late on a Northern Territory July morning.

Perhaps we took the Grey Nomad’s experimental driving technique involving an inexpertly executed U-turn directly in front of us without warning as a sign to stay off the roads that day.

Perhaps the imminent full moon threatened the same thing.

Or perhaps the iconic Victoria River Roadhouse, nestled below the wild Victoria River’s magnificent escarpments between Katherine in the Northern Territory and Kununurra in Western Australia just looked too inviting …

Whatever the reason, we soon discovered we’d lucked out with one of the most spectacular campground settings in remote Outback Australia.

And 5 completely unexpected extraordinary experiences that make this remote outpost on the Victoria Highway WAAAY more than just a fuel and food stop.

So … what’s to do? Here’s how WE spent a stay of less than 24 hours at the Roadhouse!

1 Get a photo of … well, EVERYTHING!

From the iconic Roadhouse sign to the wild outback landscape to the moonrise over the escarpment* and sunrise over what is arguably Australia’s wildest river, it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo (although I did my darndest!).

BUT … here’s the catch. You won’t get good pix by spending all your time having happy hour in the campground or drinks at the bar.

Here’s my tip. Do the other things on my list, and the photos will take care of themselves!

2 Admire the landscape from the Escarpment Lookout!!

Heading west up the road and round the corner, a reasonable walking track (with some steep sections) winds up from the valley over the rocks and onto the escarpment.

It’s worth the effort for the staggering views over the Victoria River Valley, and down to the roadhouse and campground, nestled amongst the trees.

The fantastic array of wildflowers** were a pleasant surprise!

And because it’s in the valley between escarpments, the sun on the RED rock enhances the incredible view at virtually any time of the day!

3 Get close to Australia’s Wildest River!!!

If you DO try to get close to the river, don’t get TOO close – crocodiles are common in these parts. And while we didn’t see one on the Roadhouse stretch of the Victoria River, on our crocodile cruise at Timber Creek, a couple of hours west, we saw more crocodiles in a couple of hours than in the rest of both our lives put together!

The height of the old bridge compared to the new gives an indication of how much water flows through the river crossing during the wet season. The many campers who didn’t take the 5 minute stroll down onto the old bridge missed an excellent opportunity for those sunset or sunrise photos where the escarpment GLOWS!

A short drive south along a gravel road down to the river gave a different perspective. On the lookout for the crocodiles infesting the river, we weren’t expecting the buffalo*** that somehow wandered between us and our car …

4 Eat at the Roadhouse Restaurant …

… and have a real multicultural experience!

The pierced Nordic backpacker**** who rattled off her practised spiel as we checked into the excellent and scenic caravan park nestled between escarpment cliffs of the Victoria River Valley was only the first in a string of overseas tourists we encountered during our short stay.

An eclectic mix of staff representing a smattering of other European countries variously served us drinks, took our order, served our meal and cleared our table.

And the other diners weren’t all Grey Nomads on an extended happy hour, either! My shameless eavesdropping picked up at least 10 different accents from both sides of the counter in the small dining room – with Aussies way in the minority.

More fools them!!

5 Walk the Joe Creek Loop

The guidebook ‘suggests’ this walk is moderate grade, but I wasn’t so sure …  a steep, rocky track straight up the escarpment; a narrow path under a soaring cliff; gravel crumbling underfoot.

But the next day at Timber Creek, the one-legged man with crutches***** on our crocodile cruise told us he’d done it the day before and I felt like a big girl. Hardly surprising because I AM a big girl, but you know.

Difficult or no, however, this walk delivers the goods. Red rock, livistona palms, Aboriginal Art, natural amphitheatre glowing RED in the evening light. It even overshadowed the public toilet which sadly, wasn’t quite scenic enough to make the cut …

And if I can do it, and a one-legged man with crutches can do it, what’s YOUR excuse?!

This remote outpost in the Aussie Outback is the real deal. But like so many Outback places, the only way to see it is to stop and explore. Looking back, it’s hard to believe we spent less than 24 hours there – but I see at least one more 24 hour stopover in my future …

* I can’t guarantee a moonrise for YOUR visit!

** Nor can I guarantee wildflowers!

*** Wild buffalo might not appear!

**** And Nordic backpackers might not turn up for YOUR visit!

***** And I certainly can’t guarantee a one-legged man with crutches!!

Want more information?

• Victoria River Roadhouse
• Victoria River Region
• Northern Territory
• MORE Photos of the Victoria River Region on Flickr

Previous Post:  Mind over Madness … Joffre Falls, Karijini

NEXT Post:  Scenic Public Loo #29 – The Crocodile Cruise Conveniences

The post The 5-Experiences-in-24-hours Victoria River Roadhouse Action Plan! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.



Close up of Jabiru at Lake Argyle, Western Australia

The same Jabiru in context – see if you can spot him (see below for help)!  Lake Argyle Overflow, Western Australia

Jabiru in the crocodile infested Victoria River, Northern Territory



Jabiru near Townsville, Queensland

Jabiru nesting, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory

• A is for Alice Springs
• B is for Bushranger
• C is for Crocodile
• D is for Dune
• E is for Emu
• F is for Fossils
• G is for Gorge
• H is for Holiday
• I is for Islands

Did you spot him?  Jabiru circled in RED!

The post Aussie ABC – J is for Jabiru! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Crocodiles are a weird combination of Aussie ‘Big Thing’ and perilous prehistoric predator. Maybe our fascination with crocodiles in Australia is what makes this my most viewed post of all time*.

Or maybe it’s because of the awesome photos and superlative writing … read on, and decide for yourself

But before you do, PLEASE NOTE this WARNING:

Crocodiles are VERY dangerous and can be found almost anywhere in the Top End – not just in the places I mention below, and certainly NOT just where there are warning sgns.  Large crocodiles have been found a LONG way from the sea, and in many smaller rivers and streams. SO … you MUST be crocodile aware WHEREVER you go – don’t assume it’s safe just because there’s no sign, or no one has warned you.  Assume they are EVERYWHERE in the Top End – even if you can’t see them.

Of course, the World’s Biggest Crocodile replica in Normanton, Queensland isn’t a ‘Big Thing’ ie several times larger than the real deal. It’s actually a life-size replica of the biggest crocodile ever ‘taken’ (read:  ‘shot’) by croc hunter turned croc supporter Krystina Pawloski in 1957.Now known as ‘Krys’, the 8.63 metre long (28′ 4″) monster croc is bigger than JAWS, and it’s the biggest known specimen in the world.

The golden age blood sport of hunting crocodiles in Australia ended when crocodiles became protected in the early 1970’s. But crocodile hunting still takes place downunder – as long as your weapon of choice is a camera!

Although that won’t make any difference to the cunning saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus – or ‘Saltie’) who can wait for days to ensnare its prey, and once its victim is in the ‘death roll’, there’s little chance of escape.

And just to make things more confusing, it doesn’t always hang out in salt water, either!

While less aggressive, Australia’s only other crocodile species, the Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni – or ‘Freshie’) has been known to attack, although not fatally.

But hey! Who wants to be the first?!

So where’s the best places to hunt for those elusive ‘live’ Crocodiles in Australia photos? Try my 7 Aussie Top End Crocodile Hot Spots for ALMOST guaranteed sightings!!

1. Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham,Western Australia:

But what’s that lurking beneath its benign surface?

The video at the top of the post shows why it’s not a good idea to stray from the boardwalk.

But it’s an even worse idea to venture onto the banks of this worrisome wetland when this little beauty is sunning himself!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the billabong banks on the far side regularly – crocs can appear without warning!

2. Daintree River, Daintree, Far North Queensland

A known crocodile hotspot, crocodile hunter wannabees can choose an assisted croc sighting via any number of river cruises. Daintree River Wild Watch was our choice for its birdwatching credentials, but we also got to see a saltwater crocodile close up whilst on the cruise.

Our first unassisted sighting came after the cruise as we drove up the road and spotted a large saltie sunning himself on a sandbank. He wasn’t there when we passed that same sandbank on our cruise about 30 minutes before!

The Daintree River doesn’t discriminate between salties and freshies – they’re both here in abundance!

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many Daintree River crocodile cruises can’t be wrong! Sightings are virtually guaranteed on a river cruise, and are not uncommon elsewhere.

3. Adelaide River via Darwin, Northern Territory:

The jury’s out on whether a sighting of a Performing Crocodile (ie a croc jumping for its supper) actually counts as crocodile hunting.

It’s the saurian equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel BUT if you can’t see them any other way, then knock yourself out!!

Choose one of the many available ‘Jumping Croc’ cruises – and hope like hell the boat doesn’t tip over as all the tourists rush to the same side whenever a crocodile appears …

Croc Hunter Tip:

This doesn’t really count as ‘hunting’ – but you WILL see crocodiles!!

4. Lake Argyle, via Kununurra, Western Australia:

The spectacular and otherworldly landscape of Australia’s largest lake will keep budding photographers busy for hours. One of the most magnificent spots in the country, the watery landscape is so panoramic, the wildlife takes second place.

Below the dam wall, these cold-blooded (in more ways than one) freshwater crocodiles recover from the cool night temperatures by taking in some sun. And while the morning cruise isn’t specifically about crocodile hunting, there are plenty around the banks and in the water.

Which could make the annual 10- and 20 km swimming races in the lake rather interesting …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the far bank below the dam wall. And take that 2 hour cruise – even if you don’t see a crocodile, it’s worth it just for the scenery!!

For more entertainment than is good for you, observe the anglers trying to land a big barramundi at this crocodile infested tidal river crossing into Arnhem Land. It’s also fun watching vehicles crossing the causeway as the tide comes in.

And it’s not called the East Alligator River for nothing!

Watching someone actually being taken by a crocodile would give me nightmares for a long, long time.

So watching a tinnie** full of drunken fisherman, one precariously perched on the nose of the craft as it drifted ever closer to a large crocodile they hadn’t seen, completely oblivious to the warning shouts from observers on the river bank, was a mesmerizing moment I hope never to experience again.

Luckily for them, the croc slid into the water and disappeared – they never even saw it.

As the tide came in, more crocodiles appeared downstream – not that the anglers knee-deep in water seemed to care …

But if you want your croc viewings with a bit less drama, try a Kakadu Yellow Water Cruise!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Crocodiles abound in Kakadu National Park. See them at Cahill’s Crossing or on a cruise – but don’t make out like crocodile bait!

6. Windjana Gorge, via Gibb River Road, Western Australia:

 

No, those aren’t logs in the water … Windjana Gorge, WA

Frustrated crocodile hunters who’ve dipped out*** on crocs at other hot spots will not be disappointed here, unless they’re on a lifelong losing streak. If that’s the case (and even if it isn’t), think twice about heading for Windjana unless you’re keen on experiencing clouds of red dust, brain-hammering corrugated roads, tyre-shredding rocks and other generally adverse driving conditions en route to this remote spot.

Once there, if you can tear your eyes away from the gob-smackingly awesome scenery, you’ll be reaching for the crocodile repellent – yes, there really are that many!

All freshies, of course!! But happily, that makes getting a tad closer for those souvenir photos just that little bit easier!

Back down the road in Derby, crocs are regularly seen around the mangroves, although I have no photographic evidence of the large crocodile we spotted swimming in King Sound near the jetty …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Take the track into the gorge and keep your eyes on the water and sandbanks. Some would go so far as to dub this a ‘sure thing’ sighting spot!

7. Timber Creek, Northern Territory:

In the creek behind the Circle F Caravan Park campground, there’s a daily feeding session attracting any or all of the 12 freshwater crocodiles living in the creek.

They’re not always interested, but the enticement of a free snack costing virtually no energy is generally too much of a temptation to resist!

Careful observers may notice crocodiles resting on the banks of the creek – while they’re *only* freshies, my tip for the day is to let sleeping crocs lie.

But the nearby Victoria River’s self-nomination as Australia’s last great wild river may well be true, if the number of crocodile sightings is anything to go by.

The best way to see them is in a croc-proof purpose built river cruiser with a context-setting tour of Timber Creek at one end and sunset drinks and snacks on a float in the middle of the river at the other!

A Victoria River Cruise delivers on multiple crocodile sightings as well, with local Neville Fogarty identifying the ‘local’ crocs by name and reputation!

As we passed the white croc, old ‘Broken-jaw’ and the 5+ metre long Lord Lizard who disappeared without a trace into the water beneath the cruiser, Neville told us the cattle station we were passing lost 200+ cattle to crocodiles each year.

Somehow, I don’t think they’d mind a change in diet if anyone was foolish enough to stray  too close to the water …

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many sightings of both Saltwater and Freshwater crocodiles, you won’t know where to look first. But be warned – these ones are BIG!!

Disclaimer: Wild crocodiles are unpredictable, so of course I can’t guarantee you’ll see crocodiles in Australia where I have! But stay ‘croc-alert’ and you may see them where you’re least expecting it.

Like the time we watched in horrified disbelief as two crocodiles fought over a dead cow floating downstream past our campsite on the Northern Territory’s Mary River – but that’s another story!!

Want MORE?

 

• World’s Biggest Crocodile
• Australian Saltwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus)
• Australian Freshwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus johnsoni)
• Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River!

* OK, since you asked nicely, the 2nd most viewed post of all time is 7 Days between Adelaide and Darwin

** tinnie = small aluminium fishing boat  There’s no accounting for taste!

***  ‘Dipped Out’ = Aussie expression meaning failed, or not done, or didn’t happen

The post 7 Crocodile Hot Spots in Australia’s Top End appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Yes, we’d crossed the portal into a parallel universe. But at least it was Tropical-Paradise-Cliché universe! Balmy breezes wafted through the open walls of the pub where we kicked back, drinks in hand, admiring the endless white sands, tropical palms, blue water and skies. Bob Marley played in the background. ‘Best in the world’ (albeit self-nominated) barra* and chips** on the way.

So what was wrong with this picture? Well, nothing – as a point-in-time snapshot, BUT …

1. We weren’t staying in the nearby accomodation
   2. We’d miss the evening entertainment
   3. In a couple of hours we’d be on the ferry back to Darwin, SO …
   4. we only had time for one more drink!!

And if that wasn’t enough to throw us into a raging depression, the next morning our June 08 Top End odyssey was over as we began the long drive south.

Yep, it was literally all downhill from here.

Apart from that, OK!! Actually, MORE than OK as the barra & chips arrived and we put our troubles aside to treat this great meal with the respect it deserved. Either that, or the Bob Marley had blissed us into a trance … or maybe it was the drinks

As we cursed the lack of foresight that stopped us staying for at least ONE night at lovely Mandorah across the harbour from Darwin, we vowed to one day stay a little longer in this idyllic spot.

It’s a 130km drive from Darwin to Mandorah – at the time apparently on roads the polite would describe as ‘indifferent’. But it was all hearsay to us – we took the easy option! For a modest levy of around $25 per adult return, the 7km, 20 minute SeaLink ferry ride from Cullen Bay Marina Ferry Terminal across the harbour is your portal to paradise! That’s if you can ignore the perils lurking beneath the water’s sparkling blue innocence – signs at various strategic points around the harbour warn of crocodiles, sharks, stingers and stingrays. And you don’t see any of the locals taking a dip …

From the wharf or pub, there’s no sign of the Wagait Beach suburb where a few hundred locals live – while it’s close by, we were too busy with our barra and chips to take the walk.  There IS a sign of what some locals do, however, with jetty fishing and boat launching aplenty visible from our vantage point.

Back down the Cox peninsula road are World War II sites, creeks, more beaches and wetlands – but taking the easy ferry option, as we did, means they’re out of reach for a day trip with no transport.  BUT … put all the parts of Mandorah together and they make a perfect recipe for an idyllic few days!!

So one day we’ll head off the tourist trail once more to fully explore the delights of Mandorah. But just like famous OZ poet AB ‘Banjo’ Paterson and his vision of Clancy***, the visions of that paradise sustain me through times of trouble and despair, while the promise of travels to come keeps me sane …

* Barra = Barramundi, tropical fish extraordinaire, and ultimate aim of most northern OZ fishing adventures!

** Chips, NOT fries!!

*** Non-Australians may well require a translation to fully appreciate the nuances of this OZ gem!

Want MORE?

• Mandorah
• More things to do in Darwin
• Road Trip from Adelaide to Darwin
• More of Red’s Northern Territory Adventures

Previous Post: Aussie Icons #2: Cooper’s Creek

Next Post:  Aussie ABC: B is for Bushranger

The post Off the Tourist Trail #5 – Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.