Fogg Dam Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ

10 TOP Things to Do in Darwin, Top End

Red Nomad OZ — Sun, 17 May 2015 12:11:11 +0000

NEW from RedzAustralia!

For an isolated city, rebuilt twice after being bombed (WWII) destroyed by a tropical cyclone (1974); regularly washed by massive 7 metre tides and monsoonal floods; and hosting a high proportion of dangerous and deadly wildlife; Darwin’s looking mighty fine these days.

Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory*

At least to a fair-weather traveller like me – my visit was during the more activity-friendly dry season, when the average daily maximum temperature is only around 30º C! But there’s no shame in taking the easy way out, is there?

Whether you’ve road-tripped from Adelaide to Darwin, taken the train, or flown in, you’ll be ready for some tropical Darwin R&R! Here’s a teaser of 10 TOP things to do in Darwin – just to get you started!

Fogg Dam, via Darwin, Northern Territory*

1 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve

OK, Ok, ok. So you DON’T see the attraction of a crocodile, snake and mosquito-infested swamp? How about if I call it a wetland, teeming with wildlife?

Black-necked Stork, Fogg Dam*

Fogg Dam was so intriguing we visited twice. Once during the day for a walk across the dam wall, watching thousands of birds feed among the waterlilies. Climbing up into the vantage point on the dam’s far side gave an even better perspective – and the chance to cool down before returning across the wall.

And then we did the night walk. That’s when the crocs, snakes and mosquitoes made their appearance!

MORE about Fogg Dam

2 Territory Wildlife Park

I’ll always remember the Territory Wildlife Park, around 60 km south of Darwin, as the place where I caught my first barra. Barramundi, that is, and the prize craved by all true Aussie Fishermen. And women.

Red, the Barramundi Queen! Territory Wildlife Park*

But if you think something’s wrong with this picture, you’re right … and you can get one just like it in exactly the same spot!

For a great day out and a chance to see the REAL creatures of the Territory in their natural (albeit well-constructed) habitats – like the Billabong, Nocturnal House and Aviaries – study the park’s schedule of activities – wild birds, croc feeding and the like – carefully. Then check the park’s bus timetables to get from venue to venue because this park is HUGE!

MORE about the Territory Wildlife Park

3 Australian Aviation Heritage Centre

I didn’t think I’d spend more than half an hour or so at the Aviation Museum – we were really only going in memory of Pilchard’s late father who’d been there a few years before and sung its praises. But 5 hours – and many intriguing facts – later, I was still going strong.

Is that a B52, or are you just glad to see me? Australian Aviation Heritage Centre, Darwin

This is Australian aviation history at its best with a matching array of 19 aircraft (including one of only two B52 Bombers outside of the US); regular screenings of aviation videos; displays of historic aviation memorabilia; and information stations – I’d heard of Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson, but who’d ever heard of Jessie Maude ‘Chubbie’ Miller? Not me! Now THERE’S a story waiting to be told …

I went in to the musuem not caring one way or another about planes. But I came out a newly-minted aviation nerd (well … almost!).

MORE about the Darwin Aviation Museum

4 Howard Springs and Berry Springs Nature Parks

The quest for shade and a place to go swimming is hardly surprising in a city that’s hot all year round. But factoring in the Top End’s natural swimming hazards – ie nasties like Crocodiles – shrinks the number of safe swimming spots considerably.

Red afloat at Berry Springs, via Darwin, Northern Territory*

That’s why the shallow rock pools of Howard Springs Nature Park, 35 km south of the City; and the deeper pools of the Berry Springs Nature Park, ~60 km south, are so popular, especially with the added attractions of walks and picnic facilities.

MORE about Berry Springs Nature Park and Howard Springs Nature Park

5 George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

Although there are regular sightings of Rufous Owl in the 130 year old Darwin Botanic Gardens, we had to make do with its other attractions as the owls remained elusive during our visit.

Red at the Darwin Botanic Gardens, Northern Territory*

Luckily, there’s a lot more to see in this well-planned and varied 42 hectare park stretching from the sea to a small escarpment, one of the few in the world with naturally occurring marine and estuarine plants.

Desert Roses

A network of walking trails winds through habitats like Rainforest Gully, the Baobab Collection, the exotic flora of the Plant Display House, a former church, and a boardwalk through the Mangroves.

But for MY money, don’t miss the Desert Rose display! Awesome!!

MORE about the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

6 Aquascene and Doctor’s Gully

Spotting AND hand-feeding a frenzy of local fish (yes, that’s a new collective noun) in historic Doctor’s Gully at high tide is a sure thing. A tradition of hand-feeding for over 60 years old (Woo Hoo! WAAAY older than me!) means the fish continue turn up in ever increasing numbers – AND numbers of species – to forage for bread.

Fish Feeding, Aquascene, Darwin

It’s not that hard with multiple tourists lining the shores at high tide. The fish ALMOST overshadow the sensational views across the harbour!

Doctor’s Gully, the site of Peel’s Well – Darwin’s first fresh water supply – and Chinese market gardens, is worth exploring too. And if you’re a sucker for kitsch like me, you’ll grab an Aquascene pen with a travelling fish inside it on the way out!

MORE about Aquascene

7 Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

As much a community event as a market, groups of picnicking locals set up their tables and chairs on the beach, eating, drinking and watching the the sun sink into the gulf.

Pearl Lugger cruise boat at Sunset, Mindil Beach, Darwin*

The markets were in full swing behind me as I watched Pearl Lugger turned cruise boat cross the setting sun – the only object visible on the water. After the free presentation at the caravan park I’d thought a swim at the beach was one of the Darwin things to do.

Mindil Beach by Day, Darwin, NT

But despite the warm evening no one was actually in the water.

‘Does anyone go swimming here?’ I asked, like the naïve tourist I was. ‘Nah, love. Too many crocs,’ came the reply. ‘And it’s too cold,’ another local commented.

Well, that left me with only one course of action to take. A shopping frenzy from the market stalls followed by a total pig-out at the food stalls. The swim could wait for another time! And place

MORE about Darwin’s Markets

8 Jumping Crocodiles

Not Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory

Our Jumping Crocodile Cruise wasn’t just memorable for the crocs. 75 minutes drive east of Darwin and we had a few minutes to kill while waiting for our Adelaide River cruise boat. What better way to pass the time than to check out our fellow passengers??

Jumping Croc, Adelaide River, Northern Territory

Sadly, little guidance exists for those unsure about what to wear to a crocodile viewing – we’d chosen the safe option of shorts and T-shirts. Not so the young woman in an outfit that combined the best (or worst) of Heidi and Morticia Addams! Even more sadly, I failed to capture it on film.

But even these dubious charms weren’t enough to distract us once the crocodiles started jumping!

Experience a prehistoric predator much closer to Darwin – try the Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove or hold a croc at Crocodylus Park and Zoo!

MORE about our Jumping Crocodiles adventure (and Heidi/Morticia)

9 Litchfield National Park

Not everyone visits the magnificent tropical Litchfield National Park for the termite mounds. Some people actually travel the 112 km south of Darwin to experience the wonderful array of waterfalls, inviting selection of swimming holes and network of short walks to most of the major attractions.

Termite Mound, Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory*

But I’ll bet everyone’s got a photo like THIS!

MORE about Litchfield National Park

10 Mandorah

On our last day in Darwin, we tossed up between a Harbour Cruise or a 15 minute ferry ride across the harbour to Mandorah. I’m sure I would have been happy with the harbour cruise, but boy, am I glad we chose magnificent Mandorah!

Mandorah, via Darwin, Northern Territory

Lunch at the Mandorah pub was all Barramundi Burgers, refreshing cider and Bob Marley in the background. If we’d ordered up our own vision of tropical paradise, it wouldn’t have been much different to this!

MORE about Mandorah

There’s a lot more things to do in Darwin than this teaser TOP Ten!

If you’ve got the time (and energy!) try the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory for the chilling Cyclone Tracy simulation; East Point Military Museum for insight into the bombing of Darwin in WWII; and a short drive south to the Adelaide River War Memorial.

Enjoy the water by hanging out at the Waterfront or the Wave Pool, or take a Harbour Cruise for harbour highlights or a Sunset cruise for drinks – or romance. And for a REAL taste of the Territory, be in Darwin for the annual Beer Can Regatta – 12^th July in 2015!

Then there’s the festivals … but wait! You’ll have to discover it all for yourself!! These best flights will get you there!

* Pics by Pilchard

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Random Adventure #5 – Fogg Dam, via Darwin, Northern Territory

Red Nomad OZ — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:59:00 +0000

NEW from RedzAustralia!

Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve#

The muggy tropical night enclosed me in its warm fist, immediately bonding the long-sleeved light shirt I wore to my ~~sweaty~~ glowing skin. A squadron of mosquitoes lined me up and zoomed in for the kill – until they reached the tropical strength DEET forcefield surrounding me and fell back, choking on the blood they’d sucked from other, less wary souls.

In reacting with human skin, Bushmans insect repellent displays many of the fine qualities of, say, paint stripper – but its ability to keep the insects at bay is legendary. Just as well, given any self-respecting biting, stinging or bloodsucking pest would easily have broached the negligible defence the extra layer my shirt offered.

Fogg Dam Waterlilies – by day!#

The torch’s searchlight beam swung over the endless swamp catching the glow from scores of red eyes gleaming among the water lilies.

Happily, they were only freshwater crocodiles …

Nonetheless, I edged closer to Pilchard and inside the protective circle of light cast by the lead ranger’s lantern.

As if that’d make any difference were a rogue saltie* to fling itself upon us from the water’s edge, intent on malice! The skin-bubbling layer of Bushmans insect repellent probably wouldn’t be much protection either.

Luckily given the dam’s fresh water, a saltie was unlikely. Statistically, anyway.

The access wall that bisects Fogg Dam, a conservation reserve 70km east of Northern Territory capital Darwin via Humpty Doo**, wasn’t that far above the water level. And the water lilies, by day so beautiful – ‘jesus’ birds (aka Comb-crested Jacana) hopping from leaf to leaf – looked much more sinister by night when one’s*** overactive imagination turned to the multiple menaces they could be masking!

Black-necked Stork, Fogg Dam, Northern Territory#

To everyone’s disappointment (except mine), the ranger’s discoveries so far had been pretty tame. A frog or two. Olive backed python. Probably nothing we couldn’t have seen back in the caravan park. Even the night herons remained elusive.

The lead ranger kept searching. Keelback snake (Tropidonophis mairii) apparently common in the dam and unusual among snakes for the ability to shed its tail like a gecko when threatened, wasn’t making an appearance either.

As a daytime destination, the twitcher’s paradise that is Fogg Dam was MUCH more productive – at least from Pilchard’s point of view. Attracting a vast array of birds, even during the mid-year dry season, sightings of many of the Territory’s usual suspects including Black-necked Stork (aka Jabiru), Magpie Goose, Wandering and Plumed Whistling Duck, Australian Pratincole, Whiskered Tern, White-necked Heron, Bar-breasted Honeyeater, Rufous banded Honeyeater, Little Kingfisher, Crimson Finch – are common, ensuring its status as internationally significant wetland. Strategically placed bird hides along the wall and on boardwalks and tracks around the dam allow twitchers to do their thing in shaded comfort.

Black-necked Stork – close up!#

And however bright and hot, a day time visit was successful from my perspective too. If there WAS anything lethal lurking under the lilies, at least I could see it coming. Just whose crazy idea was this park ranger-guided night time tour, anyway?!

In the distance a light bobbed its way across the dam wall towards us.

‘Must be Dr Mick****,’ the ranger muttered. ‘He might know where the snakes are.’

Bummer, I thought – and may have even said aloud. What kind of ~~psychopath~~ person ‘knows where the snakes are’, anyway?

A scientist at a major Aussie university, Dr Mick did night tours of Fogg Dam for fun. AND study, of course. As he drew nearer, he gave what can only be described as a Rebel Yell and plunged down the slippery slope to the water without warning.

‘Got him!’ he cried, rushing back to the group with a – yes, OMIGOD YES – a snake grasped in his hand. A water python! What was more disturbing – that the snake had been within a few metres of the group – and NO ONE NOTICED?? OR … that Dr Mick had fearlessly rushed down to the water’s edge to pluck a snake from it’s night hunt amongst the crocodiles, thereby risking the chance that this might make it ANGRY???

I’m such a girl.

Magpie Geese and White-necked Heron, Fogg Dam#

‘Seen any keelbacks?’ the lead ranger asked hopefully, perhaps conscious of the relative lack of verminous wildlife we’d seen up close so far.

‘Yeah, I’ve got one here in my pocket,’ Dr Mick replied. I laughed merrily. How cool! This guy personified the laconic Aussie sense of humour!! A perfect setting for it too – a mixed group of trusting tourists on a balmy Northern Territory evening led by a ranger onto a dam wall a couple of metres above water seething with crocodiles, snakes and who knew what else. Almost an Agatha Christiesque murder mystery plot!

But then he reached into his pocket and withdrew a – yes, OMIGOD YES – a snake grasped in his hand!

He wasn’t joking. Sadly.

Water lilies, Fogg Dam, Northern Territory#

As we ‘admired’ the strongly keeled scales (whatever in heck that means) of the fortunately non-venemous little critter the thought crossed my mind that perhaps this wasn’t an example of the magic of the tropics expressed through coincidence. Maybe our encounter with Dr Mick was – dare I say – scripted??

After all, I’ve never seen anyone else catch a falling snake and put it in his pocket – before or since.

So to this day, several years after our June 2008 Fogg Dam adventure, the jury’s still out!

And yep – you guessed it – one day we’ll go back to find out for sure!

#All pix in this post by Pilchard

*Saltwater crocodile – much more dangerous and aggressive than its more benign freshwater cousin

** Yes, there really IS a town called ‘Humpty Doo’ AND it’s got a bakery!

*** Yeah, MINE!

**** Not his real name

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Yep, I’m sticking with the snake theme again for Our World Tuesday! If you’re not into snakes – or even if you are – head over there to see other wonders of the world!

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