Roebuck Bay Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/roebuck-bay/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 02:44:45 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Roebuck Bay Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/roebuck-bay/ 32 32 6 Random Moments at the Broome Bird Observatory! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/6-random-moments-at-the-broome-bird-observatory/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/6-random-moments-at-the-broome-bird-observatory/#comments Thu, 13 Jun 2013 04:41:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=42 NEW from RedzAustralia!

1 The Gun Birder* Driving a bouncing 4WD with 4 passengers along a rough station track in search of Australia’s rarest bird wasn’t cramping the gun birder’s style one bit. All I could see were the vast, rolling plains of grass and samphire stretching to the horizon against an endless blue sky. But our driver and guide on the Broome[...]

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Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory
Blue Sky, Blue Sea – and RED Pindan, Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory

1 The Gun Birder*

Driving a bouncing 4WD with 4 passengers along a rough station track in search of Australia’s rarest bird wasn’t cramping the gun birder’s style one bit. All I could see were the vast, rolling plains of grass and samphire stretching to the horizon against an endless blue sky.

But our driver and guide on the Broome Bird Observatory Yellow Chat tour was unfazed by the spectacular scenery.  He could spot a bird at a hundred paces.

Calling birds to the left, right, in front and behind, he parked the 4WD at the massive lagoon, site of multiple Yellow Chat sightings.  He handed out the telescopes and set off at a brisk trot through the probably snake-ridden samphire towards the middle distance. The non-birdo Melbourne yuppie couple who’d joined us on the tour glanced at each other apprehensively. I guessed the tour wasn’t exactly what they’d thought.

A-birding we will go! Hunting the elusive Yellow Chat, via Broome Western Australia
A-birding we will go! Hunting the elusive Yellow Chat, via Broome Western Australia

Then I saw it. Over by the lagoon, a dark bird shape lurked on the shore! I pointed it out to Pilchard. And the yuppies. AND the GUN BIRDER! Who immediately trained a telescope in the general direction and invited me to step up and identify the bird. As if.

But I obligingly hoisted my camera out of the way and peered through the eye-piece, immediately diagnosing why the bird hadn’t moved.

Because even when they’re bird-shaped, pieces of driftwood rarely do.

At least the sudden and immediate loss of credibility left me free to take photos. And I DID see the elusive Yellow Chat – although YOU won’t! Not here, anyway. They were too far away to get a good shot.

But who’d doubt a gun birder??

*Gun Birder = Birding expert

Low Tide at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia
Low Tide at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

2 The Massive Blush

Warning Sign, Roebuck Bay
Warning Sign, Roebuck Bay

The Broome Bird Observatory is one of the most significant migratory shore bird sites in the world. Thousands of waders, and more than 300 species congregate on the shores each year.

But it’s still apparently OK to drive along the pristine shores of Roebuck Bay.

Because negotiating the huge 9+ metre tide and treacherous rock, mangrove and soft sand hazards REALLY gives those driving skills a workout, wouldn’t it?!

The tide rolls in ...
The tide rolls in …

Even if it is a bummer for the poor birds …

Having to phone a friend to pull you out when you’re bogged might be a little embarrassing.

But then who do you call when BOTH of you are hopelessly bogged and that massive tide’s rolling in??

Tide's out!
Tide’s out!

However, the chances of the skipper getting massive all-body blush when explaining to the insurance company why two vehicles were trapped in the bay were actually very low.

Because from all accounts there WAS no insurance …

3 The Fog

In north-west western Australia’s Broome region, the Indigenous Yawuru people’s season of Barrgana has certain characteristics.   We could expect day after punishing day of endless blue sky, daytime maximum temperatures between 28°and 31° C, coolish nights and no rain.

Foggy Morning, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia
Foggy Morning, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

That’s why the smart travellers head to Broome during the Aussie winter from June to August.

The smart birders head to the Broome Bird Observatory in August.  That’s because as the temperatures increase, the migrating wading birds start to arrive.

Fog and Dew - isn't this the DRY season?
Fog and Dew – isn’t this the DRY season?

A change dropping the temperature by a few degrees was a welcome respite from the mini-heatwave in the depths of the moistureless and arid dry season.

But who knew an early morning fog would momentarily change the landscape into a magical wonderland??

4 The Birds, the BIRDS!

After my embarrassing sighting of the rare driftwood bird (see #1 above), I spent the rest of our BBO stay with my mouth firmly – and uncharacteristically – shut. I and my small camera with the non-detachable lens were decidedly outclassed by the big lens birding brigade.  So my photos from the Broome Bird Observatory show embarrassingly few actual birds.

Maybe my big bird photography lens envy was cramping my style.

Mostly Red-necked Avocet
Mostly Red-necked Avocet – Spot the ODD one out!!!

I swung our borrowed ‘scope (that’s ‘telescope’ for you non-birders out there) along the length of ‘Wader Bay’.  Suddenly, the morass of what I thought to be pebbles and rocks at the waters edge jumped into focus and became hundreds and thousands of birds!!

We clocked up lifer after lifer (birds we’d never seen before) through the magical magnification of ‘scope and bins (binoculars!).  But although the huge mixed flocks moved ever closer with the tides, they remained resolutely rock-like in my photos.

Strangely enough, many birds failed to present in perfect photographic pose, with their best side conveniently facing my looming lens.

Colours of Roebuck Bay, Western Australia
Colours of Roebuck Bay, Western Australia

Is it so wrong to prefer mediocre landscape photography to mediocre wildlife photography?

Birds spotted at Broome Bird Observatory!
Birds spotted AND badly photographed at Broome Bird Observatory!

5 And the Birders …

NOT Birds - Mulla Mullas!!
NOT Birds – Mulla Mullas!!

NOT possessing the birding gene can work against one at the Broome Bird Observatory, but it isn’t necessarily a character flaw! It’s actually an advantage to budding anthropologists wishing to observe the daily life of participants in the extreme sport of bird-watching.

Of course it’d be rude to point out the birder’s quirks, flaws and foibles.

Pindan Road to Broome Bird Observatory
Pindan Road to Broome Bird Observatory

Birds?  Or NON-birds??

So instead, I’ve listed a few observations to demonstrate SIX subtle differences between ME and the REAL birders:

  1. Seeing ANY bird in the distance isn’t a signal to immediately stop what I’m doing and raise my binoculars.
  2. ‘Eating’ and ‘Birdwatching’ are mutually exclusive activities. So are ‘Conversing’ and ‘Birdwatching’.
  3. I’m a recovering non-birder with a photographic fixation. Don’t hate me because some of my photos don’t have birds in them.
  4. Call me crazy, but I’ve been known to select holiday destinations without knowing what birds I’ll see there. And I collect brochures about attractions other than birding hotspots.
  5. ‘Good Morning’ means ‘Good Morning’. NOT ‘How many birds have you seen already today, what were they and where were they?’
  6. I don’t know how many birds are on my ‘lifer’ list. No, I don’t want – or need – any help with that.

6  Is the Sea Blue?  OR BROWN?!

Fresh from King Sound and the highest tides in the Southern Hemisphere, the school group from just up the coast in Derby descended on the Broome Bird Observatory viewing platform like a flock of rampaging emus.

Roebuck Bay at Low Tide, Western Australia
Roebuck Bay at Low Tide, Western Australia

Any self-respecting bird would run a mile.

But the famous Roebuck Bay tranquillity slowly worked its magic. Well … that and a few well-chosen witticisms from the long-suffering teachers.

‘Send me a postcard, mate,’ one teacher called out over the hubbub to a young student indulging his not-so-secret passion for telescope wrangling.

‘What, miss?’ He turned, puzzled.

‘Because if you keep that up, you’ll be WALKING home to Derby,’ she shot back at him.

Chastened, the group calmed and looked out over the famous blue, Blue, BLUE of the bay.

‘Where’s the mud, miss?’ another student ventured.

This time I was puzzled. Until I recalled that not so far up the coast at Derby, the tidal movement of the 9th biggest tide in the world moves tonnes of mud up and down King Sound.

Brown Tide rolling in at Derby, Western Australia
Brown Tide rolling in at Derby, Western Australia

So for these students brought up on its shores, the sea is BROWN! Who says travel doesn’t broaden the mind?!?!

Tawny Frogmouth, Broome Bird Observatory
Tawny Frogmouth, Broome Bird Observatory

But hiding in the twisted branches of a tree just a few metres away from the fractured peace of this rollicking school excursion, Tawny Frogmouth slept on, safe in his daytime disguise …

 

Visit the Broome Bird Observatory

A few kilometres north of Broome and run by Birdlife Australia, the Broome Bird Observatory is a rare opportunity to explore a different side of Australia.  If you’re not afraid to rub shoulders with birdos, it offers accommodation, a camp-ground and tours to birding hotspots.

You don’t have to be a twitcher (ie birdwatcher) to explore the stunning coastline.  You can also discover amazing wildlife and wildflowers, walk the trails through woodland habitats or relax around the evening campfire.

But if you DO get the chance to experience this staggeringly scenic hideaway, I bet you’ll be back for more …

Have I talked you into it?  Get started on YOUR Broome adventure with cheap flights right here!

Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory, via Broome, Western Australia
Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory, via Broome, Western Australia

Want MORE?

 

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5 Reasons to visit Broome in July! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/02/5-reasons-to-visit-broome-in-july/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/02/5-reasons-to-visit-broome-in-july/#comments Tue, 19 Feb 2013 02:22:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=69 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Blue- and red-coloured landscapes are generally associated with other planets, abstract art or young children! But while you’re checking out all the amazing things to do in Broome you can experience a distinctive red and blue landscape for REAL! The ocean’s characteristic blue hue from white clay in the water combines with the red local Pindan rock and soil in[...]

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Rock formation, Broome, Western Australia
Rock formation, Broome, Western Australia

Blue- and red-coloured landscapes are generally associated with other planets, abstract art or young children!

But while you’re checking out all the amazing things to do in Broome you can experience a distinctive red and blue landscape for REAL!

The ocean’s characteristic blue hue from white clay in the water combines with the red local Pindan rock and soil in a gob-smacking hit of colour.  For milder temperatures and clear, sunny days the best time to visit Broome is in July.

So escape the southern winter and head north for a warmth and colour hit that’ll stay with you long after you’ve returned to the drab winter down south 😀

Red Tide at Broome, Western Australia
Red Tide at Broome, Western Australia

But while the colour is a big part of the Broome experience, it’s not the only reason to visit.

Because whether or not you’ve got a thing for red and blue, exploring these 5 fabulous attractions will make your holiday in Broome an unforgettable experience.

1 The Beaches:

Cable Beach with Gantheaume Point in the distance, Broome, WA
Winter on Cable Beach with Gantheaume Point in the distance, Broome, WA

The chances of finding a spot for yourself on Broome’s world famous Cable Beach are better than average.

This stunning curve of sand so white it hurts your eyes stretches for 22 km (13.7 miles) so despite the Australian winter tourist season’s increased number of travellers at the cafe above, there’s more than enough room on the sand below.

If other tourists on the beach is too much for you, go for absolute solitude just a few kilometres north, through the laid-back community of Coconut Wells and over the dunes to the beach.

Coconut Wells Beach - with Dune Buggy Track!  via Broome, Western Australia
Coconut Wells Beach – with Dune Buggy Track!  via Broome, Western Australia

There’s a Dune Buggy track or two. And a couple of people WAAAAAY further down the beach. And a few shags* on a rock.

But you’ve got several kilometres to yourself. OK?

2 Roebuck Bay:

Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory Western Australia
Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory Western Australia

It’s a long hike through the mud to the Catalina float-plane wrecks that only emerge from Broome’s Roebuck Bay at very low tide.

So I didn’t do it.

I had just as much fun at the world famous Broome Bird Observatory on the shores of Roebuck Bay a few kilometres up the coast.

After a couple of dunkings ...
After a couple of dunkings …

In the rapidly rising 9 metre tide, close to being highest in Australia, we spotted what looked like a car roof down amongst the mangroves. It WAS a car roof. Actually, two!

Yes, it’s possible whoever drove an uninsured 4WD along the sands of the bay at low tide couldn’t have anticipated being bogged up to the axles. But the person who tried to pull him out???

If you aren’t lucky enough to watch a double-car-extraction from soft sands between high tides, don’t despair.

There are a lot more things to do in and around the Bird Observatory, where thousands of migratory wading birds flock along the bay’s RAMSAR-listed shores along with the twitchers** trying to spot them.

A Yellow Chat birding tour to see one of Australia’s rarest birds; a dawn ramble to the ocean through a dense tropical mist; scenery so superb even the most amateur*** photographer’s shots look good; Snub-fin dolphin sightings from the observation platform; and an array of shorebirds so dense it takes a telescope to sort them out!

Rocks at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory
Rocks at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory

Just walk the dramatic curve of Roebuck Bay below the observatory for full-on relaxation in a spectacular setting.

Back in Broome watching the world renowned ‘Stairway to the Moon’, where the moon rises over the Bay is a must see! Initially skeptical – it’s just the moon rising over the sea like anywhere else in the world where the moon rises over the sea, right? – the real thing stopped my cynicism dead!

And if there’s no car in the bay for entertainment, maybe the Catalinas are worth a visit instead! They’re probably just as interesting. No, REALLY!

3 Gantheaume Point:

Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia
Rocks at twilight, Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia

There’s no best time of day to experience all the things to do at Gantheaume Point – any time is good!

At high tide, watching swimmers leaping from the red Pindan rock into a sea so blue it looks like it sucked all the colour from the sky is just like a scene from a movie set. And at low tide – approximately 9 metres lower – the rock platforms emerge from the sea, exposing strange rock gardens full of exotic corals and dinosaur footprints.

Blue and Red at Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia
Blue and Red at Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia

The brightness of day where the sea sparkles against the rocky Bingle Bingles around the Point from the unusual Lighthouse contrasts with the incredible twilight and sunset as the orange sun plunges into the Indian ocean and the rocks turn to fire.

Gantheaume Point Lighthouse looking towards Cable Beach, Broome, Western Australia
Gantheaume Point Lighthouse looking towards Cable Beach, Broome, Western Australia

There’s always something happening at Gantheaume Point.

So visit any time. BUT … be warned! The High tide/low tide/daylight/twilight scenes are SO different you’ll want to experience all of them.

HHHMMMmmm… perhaps it’d be easier just to spend the whole day there?!

Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia
Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome, Western Australia

4 A Night at the Pictures:

If like me, you’re a sucker for world exclusives, take in a movie at Sun Pictures, world’s oldest operating picture gardens – where the entertainment isn’t all up on the big screen!

After admiring the movie memorabilia lining the walls since its official opening as Sun Pictures in 1916, cinema-goers take their seats and don their jackets.

The coolness of a Broome evening shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise – because despite the ~29°C July daily maximum temperature, it really IS winter!

Cinema Patrons take their seats, Sun Pictures, Broome
Cinema Patrons take their seats, Sun Pictures, Broome

But after the sun sets and darkness falls over the open-roofed theatre and the show starts, there’s another surprise in store. WARNING: To avoid spoilers, SKIP THE NEXT PARAGRAPH!

Watching the generally unremarkable cinema advertising is interrupted without warning as a low flying passenger jet only a few metres above the screen screams into Broome airport. Accompanied by the odd shriek – or two – from patrons unaware of the special acoustic qualities of this unique combination of landing jet and open-roofed building!

Photos? C’mon! Do you REALLY think my shutter-button finger was THAT quick?

Luckily, one of Australia’s most unusual public amenities blocks with an ever-changing backdrop is right below the big screen! AND … it’s in MY BOOK!!!

Don’t miss it!!

5 Willie Creek and the Pearls:

Willie Creek, via Broome, Western Australia
Willie Creek, via Broome, Western Australia

Even if you’re totally unaware of Broome’s history there’s a few dead giveaway clues to its heritage.

Like the pearl showrooms and sales outlets in the main shopping precincts. The well preserved pearling lugger in Chinatown’s main street. The Japanese and Chinese cemeteries where hundreds of pearl divers are now at rest and commemorative statues and plaques in the main street. The inclusion of pearl meat at some of the eateries And the staggering array of pearl-related products at the weekly markets!

Yes, it’s impossible to ignore the rich pearling heritage of this beautiful city, the jewel of the Kimberley coast.

Blockade en route to James Price Point, Kimberley Coast, Western Australia
Blockade en route to James Price Point, Kimberley Coast, Western Australia

So when we were thwarted by an anti-mining blockade from our drive north up the coast to controversial hot-spot and whale nursery James Price Point, Plan B kicked in and we arrived at Willie Creek Pearl farm ready for action.

Which it delivered!

As a aerophobic, my scenic helicopter flight over the magnificent estuary system glowing with colour and light could have ended badly. Luckily I was distracted by the staggeringly picturesque landscape unfolding beneath.  So my amateur*** photographic instincts completely overcame any lingering thoughts about crashing to the ground and dying a horrible death.

Willie Creek and surrounds from the air, via Broome
Willie Creek and surrounds from the air, via Broome

Relieved I was still alive after the successful touchdown, I just had to buy myself a little reward souvenir! Who knew (or cared!) that the $9 black seed-pearl ring I selected was from the children’s section? While it might not be to everyone’s taste, the showroom had plenty of REAL jewelry and pearl-related artefacts for pearl purists!!

After a snack from the Willie Creek cafe, I was ready for another helicopter flight …

… but decided to wait until next time!

Port Jetty, Broome, Western Australia
Port Jetty, Broome, Western Australia

I see a repeat performance of ALL these awesome things to do in Broome in July somewhere in my future. But don’t leave all the good times up north downunder to me! Start right here, right now! Compare the cheapest flights online … and I’ll see you somewhere up there on a sunny July Aussie winter’s day!!

Is it a date?

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Gantheaume Point by Day!  Broome, Western Australia
Gantheaume Point by Day!  Broome, Western Australia

* Shag (in this context) = Cormorant

** Twitcher = Bird Watcher

*** Yep, that’s me!

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