Nullarbor Plain Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/nullarbor-plain/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 03:06:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Nullarbor Plain Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/nullarbor-plain/ 32 32 Aussie ABC: R is for Rocks https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/aussie-abc-r-is-for-rocks/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/aussie-abc-r-is-for-rocks/#comments Sun, 21 Dec 2014 22:49:05 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2951 NEW from RedzAustralia!

With the world’s biggest rock AND largest monolith*, Australia’s the land of the ultimate ROCK – or at least the coolest Australian rock formations! But where’s a keen rockhound to go once they’ve seen Mt Augustus (biggest rock) and Uluru (biggest monolith)?? Check out a few more Australian Rock Stars – otherwise known as distinctive and unusual Australian rock formations – with[...]

The post Aussie ABC: R is for Rocks appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
NEW from RedzAustralia!

Sawn Rocks via Narrabri, New South Wales
Sawn Rocks via Narrabri, New South Wales

With the world’s biggest rock AND largest monolith*, Australia’s the land of the ultimate ROCK – or at least the coolest Australian rock formations! But where’s a keen rockhound to go once they’ve seen Mt Augustus (biggest rock) and Uluru (biggest monolith)??

Check out a few more Australian Rock Stars – otherwise known as distinctive and unusual Australian rock formations – with this handy guide to 12 HOTTEST Rock spots from all around OZ!

1 Bald Rock via Tenterfield, NSW

This 750m x 500m monolith around 25 north of Tenterfield in New South Wales’ Granite Belt isn’t Australia’s largest monolith. But it’s Australia’s largest GRANITE monolith!!

Bald Rock via Tenterfield, New South Wales
Bald Rock via Tenterfield, New South Wales

Thrill seekers and the time-poor can take the short, steep exposed route straight up the face to the summit – 200 metres above the surrounding plains. Those wanting a more relaxing experience (read: more cowardly) can take the longer, more scenic route through the bushland up the back. Either way, the exposed summit has spectacular views over two states – and a spectacular drop down to the bottom!

MORE about Bald Rock National Park

2 Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, SA

The remarkable shapes of these rocks sculptured by wind, water and weather at the southern end of Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island off the South Australian coast are a real clue to what their ultra-imaginative name actually means 😀

Remarkable Rocks
Red & Pilchard at Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Australia’s 3rd largest island – an intriguing blend of superb natural attractions, wildlife, gourmet treats and beaches – is South Australia’s answer to the tropics.

But whatever their reasons for visiting Kangaroo Island, sooner or later, most visitors head for the all-natural Remarkable Rocks – where they’ll take a photo remarkably like the one above!

MORE about Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Balancing Rock, Chillagoe, Queensland
Balancing Rock, Chillagoe, Queensland

3 Balancing Rock & Caves – Chillagoe, QLD

I’ve still got the cool Serpentine (I think) egg I bought from a Chillagoe shop on my only visit 20+ years ago, but it’s Balancing Rock and the Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park tour I remember.

Outside, the dramatic jagged edges of the reef housing the caves tower above the classic outback landscape.

Inside Chillagoe Caves
Inside Chillagoe Caves, Far North Queensland

It’s just as dramatic inside – a separate, subterranean world of limestone in intriguing formations, weathered caverns and towering columns.

Back outside and the self-guided walks to the historic smelter sites, Aboriginal rock art are interesting, but it’s the amazing Balancing Rock that’ll get you snapping!

MORE about Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park

4 Tessellated Pavement, Tasmania

I’m such a sucker for names that when I heard about an attraction in a place called Pirates Bay near the township of Eaglehawk Neck on the Tasman Peninsula, it didn’t matter what it was. I just HAD to go see Tasmania’s Tessellated Pavement – one of the best known examples*** of this complex geological phenomenon involving rock fractures, polygonal blocks, erosion and sea salts. If you’re not a geologist, this is probably enough information. If you ARE a geologist, then you’ll already know WAY more than this!

Tesselated Pavement, Tasmania
Tessellated Pavement, via Eaglehawk Neck, Tasmania

At low tide, the tessellations (like mosaic tiles) make an interesting patchwork on the flat rock platform just above the water level. But make sure your cool pavement shot isn’t ruined by slipping on the wet rocks!

MORE about the Tessellated Pavement

5 Mirima National Park, Kununurra

Mirima National Park, via Kununurra, Western Australia
Mirima National Park, via Kununurra, Western Australia

Tiny Mirima National Park on the outskirts of Kimberley town Kununurra, with its wildlife, walks and wheelchair access, is a chance to experience the MUCH bigger West OZ attraction Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles) in miniature.

I HOPE it's a Python!
I HOPE it’s a Python!

Formed by the same process as its larger counterpart, Mirima’s sedimentary rock layers glow in the early morning and late evening light. And with the right angle of perspective and the right level of concentration, a more skilled photograper than I could ALMOST convince viewers that the shots were taken elsewhere!

But I had no time for photographic trickery – I was more interested in avoiding the 3 metre snake!

MORE about Mirima National Park

6 Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

Snapping a killer sunset or sunrise in what is arguably Australia’s most intriguing rock pile without other people in your shot can be a challenge!

But the complicated geological theory involving weathered layers of sandstone and granite that’s the standard scientific explanation for the almost perfectly spherical shapes doesn’t quite do justice to the magical setting and extraordinary light.

Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) at Sunset, Northern Territory
Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) at Sunset, Northern Territory

So forget the ‘facts’, settle back, and drink in the magic of Karlu Karlu with the story of the Rainbow Serpent. According to this Indigenous legend, those spherical shapes are the Rainbow Serpent’s fossilized eggs!

Now … isn’t that a FAR more satisfying explanation for this geological phenomenon?

MORE about Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu)

7 Island Rock, via Kalbarri, WA

According to the tourist information brochure, Island Rock, one of the more spectacular of Kalbarri National Park’s Coastal Cliff attractions, ‘can be enjoyed from the safety of the lookout enclosures’!

Island Rock, Kalbarri
Island Rock, Kalbarri, Western Australia

But it doesn’t explain how safely walk the coastal trail atop the sandstone cliffs so high above the pounding sea below it’s almost impossible to fit them into a photo! Perhaps that’s why many tourists opt for a visit to the park’s best known rock formation, Natures Window!!

If you can tear your eyes away from Island Rock and the amazing sculpted cliff face, so treacherous to ships and bumblefooted tourists, you may be lucky enough to see whales far out to sea. But if the sheer drop gives you vertigo, turn and face inland – and you’ll see one of Australia’s most scenic loos**!

MORE about Kalbarri National Park

8 Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

It’s an easy walk from the car park to the dramatic Sawn Rocks – Australia’s best example of the columnar jointing phenomenon more commonly called organ piping located a few kilometres from Narrabri in the shadow of Mt Kaputar National Park. Best viewed in the morning when the sun (if it’s out!) strikes the rock face, bringing out the amazing colours and shadows.

Sawn Rocks Close Up, Narrabri, New South Wales
Sawn Rocks Close Up, Narrabri, New South Wales

Standing underneath the soaring rock face can be awe-inspiring – until you realise that those enormous Greek temple ruinous rock columns all around can only have come from one place.

Yep, directly above!

MORE about Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

Hollow Mountain Hollows
Hollow Mountain Hollows

9 Hollow Mountain, Victoria

You can’t swing a brush-tailed possum in Victoria’s Grampians National Park without hitting some kind of rock. So much so that walking through the park could give you a serious case of rock overload that only a fix from the awesome Halls Gap Bakery could cure 😀

But I’m betting even the most jaded rockhound couldn’t fail to be impressed by Hollow Mountain, in the Northern Grampians. Exploring the wind-sculpted caves, caverns and crags can actually be more fun than reaching the summit!

Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria
Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria

And I’m not just saying that because I’m exercise-averse! No, REALLY!!

MORE about Hollow Mountain and Northern Grampians

10 Balls Pyramid – via Lord Howe Island, NSW

Balls Pyramid
Balls Pyramid, Dead Ahead!

For pure rock star awesomeness, there’s not much to beat the 552m high spire of the world’s largest volcanic rock stack, out in the middle of the ocean and one of the only points of the mostly submerged continent of Zealandia still above sea level.

It’s an achievement to even get there. A 700+ km flight from Sydney to Lord Howe Island in a small plane that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not be able to land. Then a 23 km boat journey that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not actually depart as scheduled.

Once you’re on the boat, it’s easy. Unless you suffer from seasickness, in which case the hardest part of the trip is NOW!

MORE about Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island

11 Bunda Cliffs, South Australia

Is it possible to have TOO much limestone??

If you’re not sure, head down south and drive the Nullarbor Plain skirting the Great Australian Bight. There’s nothing much between the road on the southern edge of Australia and Antarctica – except the majestic Bunda cliffs, ranging from 60 – 120 metres high and stretching for ~100 km.

Bunda Cliffs up Close, Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain
Bunda Cliffs up Close, Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain

That makes them the longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the WORLD!

If that’s not quite enough limestone for you, then factor in the 270,000 km² of the Nullarbor Plain itself – World’s largest limestone karst formation!

MORE about the Bunda Cliffs and Nullarbor Plain

12 Mount Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland

The Chimneys, Mt Moffatt, Queensland
The Chimneys, Mt Moffatt, Queensland

Mount Moffatt, 220 km north of Mitchell, part of the Carnarvon National Park and containing Queensland’s highest plateau (the Consuelo Tableland) is worth the long drive – and the flat tyre we got the instant we drove into the park many years ago!

Its remoteness made it the ideal hideout for the bushrangers, including the violent Kenniff brothers and notorious cattle duffer Harry Redford (sometimes known as Captain Starlight), who operated in the area. And the local Bidjara people, who refused to be ousted from their land, left a legacy of rock imagery throughout the park.

But it’s the sandstone formations we came to see – an awesome array of arches, ‘chimneys’ and monoliths scattered decoratively around the park. There’s no doubt about it – these rocks ROCK!

MORE about Mt Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park

Marlong Arch, Mt Moffatt
Under Marlong Arch, Mt Moffatt, Queensland

That’s just a sample – and I bet I’ve missed YOUR favourite HOT Australian Rock Formations!  Tell me below!!

Want even MORE?

Bunda Cliffs, Nullarbor Plain
Bunda Cliffs at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, SA

* According to www.answers.com HERE

** Yes, it’s in my book HERE

*** According to Wikipedia HERE

The post Aussie ABC: R is for Rocks appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/12/aussie-abc-r-is-for-rocks/feed/ 36
Aussie ABC: N is for Nullarbor https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/aussie-abc-n-is-for-nullarbor/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/aussie-abc-n-is-for-nullarbor/#comments Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:06:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=44 NEW from RedzAustralia!

I was 4 – nearly 5! – the first time I crossed the Nullarbor. Christmas day, and we were on the Indian Pacific* heading for Adelaide. We’d spent Christmas eve in a pub somewhere in rough as guts Western Australian gold-mining town Kalgoorlie, but I don’t remember that.  Maybe I had blanked it out … Many years later, I made[...]

The post Aussie ABC: N is for Nullarbor appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
NEW from RedzAustralia!

The Great Australian Bight, Eucla, Western Australia
Love at First Bight … 1st land-level view of the Great Australian Bight, Eucla, Western Australia

I was 4 – nearly 5! – the first time I crossed the Nullarbor. Christmas day, and we were on the Indian Pacific* heading for Adelaide. We’d spent Christmas eve in a pub somewhere in rough as guts Western Australian gold-mining town Kalgoorlie, but I don’t remember that.  Maybe I had blanked it out …

Many years later, I made my second Nullarbor crossing, this time as an adult by car along the Eyre Highway. And while it was hot, dry and dusty with a killer sand-laden wind fresh from the furnaces of hell, I couldn’t suppress the frisson of excitement that travelling this iconic landscape gave me.

Nullarbor's Western Edge
Nullarbor’s Western Edge – Through the Windscreen …

Because the Eyre Highway’s 1660 km length**, crossing two monster states, three time zones and the world’s largest limestone karst shelf covering 200,000 km²makes a Nullarbor crossing the ultimate Australian rite-of-passage road trip!

The Nullarbor is WAY more than just a long, dusty drive from A to B.

With unique Australian AND World Exclusives jostling for position amidst magnificent coastal scenery, remote roadhouses and the opportunity to be truly alone, who WOULDN’T want to experience the wonders of the treeless (Null = none; arbor = tree) plain?

BUT … if you’re having trouble picturing how a Nullarbor crossing – perhaps the ultimate Australian travel adventure – is a good thing, here’s 6 trip-teaser things to see and do on the Nullarbor Plain so you can see what you’re missing!!

 1 The Golf:

Brumby's Run on the Nullarbor Golf Course
Brumby’s Run on the Nullarbor Golf Course

OK, you’re on the Nullarbor on (arguably) Australia’s greatest road trip and I’m talking GOLF??

Yes.

Even if – like me – you’re NOT a golfer, you’ll surely want to add a World Exclusive like World’s LONGEST golf course to your repertoire, right??

Nullarbor Links stretches 1365 km (848 miles) over 18 holes from the ‘CY O’Connor’ and ‘Golden Mile’ holes in Kalgoorlie to ‘Denial Bay’ and ‘Oyster Beds’ at Ceduna with 14 other aptly named holes – think ‘Skylab’ at Balladonia, ‘Nullarbor Nymph’ at Eucla and ‘Dingo’s Den’ at the Nullarbor Roadhouse – along the way. And you don’t have to lug a whole lot of (to me) superfluous golfing gear around either! Hire clubs at each hole!!

Brumby's Run, Madura Pass Roadhouse, Nullarbor
Brumby’s Run, Madura Pass Roadhouse, Nullarbor

MORE about Nullarbor Links!

2 The Bight:

Once across the border into South Australia, the highway skirts the Bunda cliffs with their white base of Wilson Bluff Limestone.

A dramatic edge to the Great Australian Bight – that 1160 km long mouthful shaped chunk that eats into Southern Australia – the impressive 200 km of unbroken cliffs is part of the longest sea-cliff line in the world.

The Bunda Cliffs and Bight, Eyre Highway, South Australia
The Bunda Cliffs and Bight, Eyre Highway, South Australia

From here, there’s NOTHING between you and Antarctica except what we Aussies call the Great Southern Ocean. To the rest of you, it’s just part of the Indian Ocean.

MORE about Great Australian Bight and Great Australian Bight Marine Park

3 The Whales and other Wildlife:

Between May and October each year, up to 60 Southern Right Whales migrate to this area to breed and calve. One of the best places to sight them is the northernmost tip of the curve of southern coastline, imaginatively called Head of Bight!

Whales at Head of Bight, South Australia
Whales at Head of Bight, South Australia

Get below the cliff line on the Great Australian Bight Marine Park’s viewing platform that puts you as close to the whales as you can get without getting wet! But don’t just drop in like we did – break your journey at the nearby Nullarbor Roadhouse so you can spend all the time you want whale watching.

If whales aren’t your thing, birdwatch at the Eyre Bird Observatory – Nullarbor Quail-thrush is only found on the Nullarbor!

Failing that, foolishly driving from dusk onwards will virtually guarantee sightings of wildlife up REAL close …

MORE about Head of Bight’s Whale Watching AND Eyre Bird Observatory

Bunda Cliffs up close, South Australia
Bunda Cliffs up close, South Australia

4 The Exclusives:

A Nullarbor road-trip really is the best way to appreciate Australia’s size and scope as well as some experiences to be had nowhere else in Australia – or the World!

During the trip, experience the longest straight stretch of road in Australia!

Just how long IS 90-mile straight?? Of course … it’s 91.1 miles (or 146.6 km)!!

And if you miss the bight and longest line of sea-cliffs in the world because you’re travelling by train, make up for it by riding the longest straight stretch of railway line in the world – 478 km (297 miles).

90 Mile Straight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
90 Mile Straight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Under the world record breaking limestone karst, worn by the weathering of millenia, lies the world’s longest cave system complete with rockholes and blowholes, including Koonalda Cave and Murrawijinie Caves near the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Eucla Signpost, Western Australia
Eucla Signpost, Western Australia

At 2.5 million acres, Rawlinna station is the biggest sheep station in the world!

Yes, that makes it bigger than quite a number of countries … although the dry sheep equivalent out here is pretty low!

Taking a photo of the big nothing emptiness isn’t too difficult … on roads this long, there’s not a lot of other traffic to get in the way!

5 The History:

Perhaps because of its isolation, harsh climate and unique features, the Nullarbor’s fascinating history can be experienced along the way.

Several settlements and roadhouses are built around the Telegraph line, like Eucla, near the WA/SA border, once the busiest Telegraph Station outside the capital cities when it opened in 1877. Drowning in sand, the ruins can still be accessed by 4WD.

The Eyre Bird Observatory was once an historic Telegraph Station, itself on the site of a watering hole used by Edward John Eyre during his Nullarbor Crossing. Back on the highway, nearby Cocklebiddy was once an Aboriginal mission. Indigenous legend and history is further explored at the Head of Bight Interpretive Centre.

Storm Approaching, Madura Pass, Western Australia
Storm Approaching, Madura Pass, Western Australia

If you can remember back to 1979, spare a thought for Skylab when you reach Balladonia – debris was found at Woorlba Sheep Station 40 km east. A Cultural Heritage Museum in the hotel complex also recreates the area’s history including Aboriginal Dreaming legend and Afghan Cameleers.

Not so Scenic! Nullarbor Rest Stop ...
Not so Scenic! Nullarbor Rest Stop …

To cement YOUR place in history, pick up a Nullarbor Crossing Certificate from the Norseman Tourist Centre OR from the Port Augusta Wadlata Visitor Information Centre – depending on from which end your trip started!!

6 The Nullarbor Nymph:

The story of a blonde white woman living among kangaroos on the Nullarbor Plain was first reported, perhaps unsurprisingly on the day after Xmas, 1971.

After some footage of a woman wearing kangaroo skins was released – did I mention she was half-naked?? – the small town of Eucla (then with a population of 8) on the Western Australian side of the border with South Australia, was swamped by journalists from around the world.

Eucla, Western Australia
If you don’t get to see the real thing … make do with this! Eucla, Western Australia

Sadly, the Nullarbor Nymph was outed as a hoax in 1972, although perhaps she remains a subliminal fantasy for in the ‘best’ Aussie tradition, the story of the nymph has been immortalised in a (you’ll not be surprised to hear low-budget) film.

The BIG Galah, Kimba, South Australia
The BIG Galah, Kimba, South Australia

Most – if not all – travellers won’t get to see the nymph, so will have to content themselves with this Aussie BIG Thing at the Half-way Across Australia mark instead …

MORE about the Nullarbor Nymph AND more about the FILM and Kimba’s BIG Galah!

Just between us, this is only the beginning … there are WAAAAY more than these 6 things to see and do on the Nullarbor!  But I’ll leave finding the rest up to you!!

Interested? Intrigued?? Incited??? THEN … Read MORE:

Last shop for 1000 km, Penong, South Australia
Last shop for 1000 km, Penong, South Australia

ALL the Aussie ABCs:

* Famous Australian train running from Sydney to Perth ie between the Indian and Pacific oceans!!

** From Norseman, Western Australia to Port Augusta, South Australia – with the accepted limits of the Nullarbor Plain being the ~1200 km from Norseman to Ceduna. The actual distance from Perth to Adelaide is 2700 km.

The post Aussie ABC: N is for Nullarbor appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/aussie-abc-n-is-for-nullarbor/feed/ 36
6 ALMOST Secret TOP Australian National Parks! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/#comments Mon, 11 Mar 2013 21:31:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=63 NEW from RedzAustralia!

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks? I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks! And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project. The question comes up because lots of visitors stop[...]

The post 6 ALMOST Secret TOP Australian National Parks! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
NEW from RedzAustralia!

NatParks_Infographic_LR

At LAST I’ve got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all the Australian National Parks?

I’ll just get out my recently released 2nd edition of Explore Australia’s excellent Explore Australia’s National Parks!

And point out that to visit ALL of Australia’s 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project.

The question comes up because lots of visitors stop counting after Uluru-Kata Tjuta, the Great Barrier Reef, Kakadu and the Blue Mountains. But what about the other 500 or so? Over the years, our travels in Australia have taken us to some spectacular National Parks that we’ve often had all to ourselves.

Using Explore Australia’s National Parks will help to narrow the field. And I’m not just saying that because I was lucky to get a complementary copy – check out the infographic at left, then take a little armchair tour of these 6 less well known Australian National Parks and you’ll see what I mean!!

And if this doesn’t whet your appetite for Aussie travel, then NOTHING will!

Let’s head to South Australia first!

1. Great Australian Bight Marine National Park, South Australia

Driving the Nullarbor is the ultimate road trip – part of a 4000 km journey from one side of Australia to the other, its big chunks of nothing broken only by roadhouses, rest stops and ‘roos! And stopping for the obligatory photo of yourself in the middle of a long stretch of empty road with nothing all around …

Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia

But the drive through the Nullarbor Regional Reserve is an adventure in itself with several world exclusives, including Nullarbor Links, the world’s longest golf course; the Nullarbor itself, world’s longest, flattest limetone formation; and the Bunda cliffs – longest unbroken stretch of cliffs without a natural harbour in the world.

Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia
Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia

For those unimpressed by such things, the Great Australian Bight – that big concave bit along the bottom of the continent – is a world reknowned Southern Right Whale nursery and migration path.

And on a good day – May to October – literally dozens of whales and calves can be spotted up and down the coast from the Head of Bight viewing platforms.

Such a spectacle, in fact, that I almost didn’t notice the scenic public toilet!

Read MORE: Whale Watching at Head of Bight

2. Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

For a complete change of pace, Victoria’s Mallee country is a surprise to those who thought the Outback was confined to Australia’s more central parts.

Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

Only 450 km north-west of Melbourne, visit Wyperfeld’s eastern section from nearby Hopetoun or Rainbow, but for a real outback experience camp in one of the park’s two campgrounds and explore the park on foot.

Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria
Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

With walking trails to suit all levels of fitness, the park is part of a complex lake system and is a known habitat for the endangered Mallee fowl.

During our May 2012 day trip, we saw two other cars. But although lots of others joined us for our second stay on the June long weekend in 2014,  we were on our own again once the weekend was over.

And when you’re done with Wyperfeld, drop in to nearby Patchewollock for the BIG Mallee fowl!

Read MORE: Patchewollock and Hopetoun 

3. Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

The poor relation of Exmouth’s two parks, Cape Range is often overshadowed by the world famous Whale Sharks of Ningaloo Reef. And while these Western Australian Coral Coast offshore attractions are undeniably spectacular, Cape Range was so intriguing on our August 2012 visit, we saved Ningaloo for next time.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

After escaping our campsite between the twin delights of the amenities block and the backpacker accomodation, Yardie Creek Gorge along the western side of the range running down the middle of Northwest Cape was a welcome surprise.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park
Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

It’s not every day you get to see a classic Outback Gorge with a river running into the ocean!

The eastern side of the range was even more dramatic. A very rough, narrow, winding and steep drive along the aptly named Charles Knife Road revealed more rugged Outback scenery with staggering views across to the ocean.

And in the height of tourist season, with caravan parks and campgrounds full to bursting, we lucked out with only a couple of other vehicles!

Although one contained quite possibly the only sarong-wearing Frenchman in the world …

Read MORE: Exploring Cape Range National Park

Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia
Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

4. Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

Described to us as the ‘mini Bungle Bungles’ in a nod to one of Western Australia’s big ticket items, the Northern Territory’s Keep River National Park actually abuts the WA border. And makes a mockery of the 1½ hour time difference! Although we left Kununurra early, by the time we’d visited the Ranger station and nearby Cockatoo Lagoon, then driven to the 7km Jarnem Loop walk trailhead, the morning had all but gone.

Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

No matter.

This spectacular walk through bizarre rock formations to the 360ºlookout, then down through a lightly wooded valley past more rock formations to an Aboriginal rock shelter complete with paintings was virtually people free!

White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park
White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park

Add a lifer – White-quilled Rock-pigeon – for twitcher Pilchard and I see a return to this remote Top End park in our future …

I can only imagine the views at sunset and sunrise – but one day we’ll stay in one of the campgrounds for a few days and find out!

And when one day we visit the real Bungle Bungles, we’ll see how it got it’s nickname.

5. Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

Jolting along the rough road from remote opal mining town White Cliffs towards Paroo-Darling National Park’s Peery Lake, we spotted a Winnebago parked in the middle of the road. Stopping to make sure the owners were OK, we asked where they’d come from. The middle aged couple exchanged guilty glances and seemed strangely reluctant to tell us.

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales

‘You’re not Park rangers, are you?’, she finally asked. Then the penny dropped! They’d illegally stayed at the lake overnight.

‘It’s not really camping,’ she continued. ‘We’re fully self-contained!’

And that was our introduction to both Paroo-Darling National Park and the new definitions of ‘camping’.

Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales
Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

The park is a string of seven old pastoral leases, several of which form one of the only reserves on the Darling River floodplain.

The park’s only campground – the Coach and Horses – is in this section, more easily reached from Wilcannia.

In the northern sections, along the Paroo River Overflow before it meets the Darling near Wilcannia. In this part of the park, the massive bulk of Lake Peery, full during our 2010 visit, supports abundant birdlife but when dry its unique mound springs become visible.

Read MORE: White Cliffs, New South Wales

6. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland

Back in 1998 on our first and only visit, Queensland’s Lawn Hill was considered a remote destination with the riverbanks at closest town Gregory Downs a makeshift stopover campsite before the rigours of 100 km of bulldust and gravel.

Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

Nowadays, nearly 15 years later, it’s still a long, hard 100 km of unsealed road. With either mud or dust, depending on the time of year.

But it’s still one of the most spectacularly memorable National Parks in Australia, an Outback oasis with a soaring red rocky gorge system, clear water and staggering scenery. The canoe trip from the camping area up the gorge, then over the portage point into the higher gorge is an amazing experience. Get close to the wildlife too! Swim with the giant carp, spot freshwater crocodiles lurking in the gorges – and watch out for snakes in the water! My first instinct was to paddle like hell when my oar nearly hit a snake in the water; but Pilchard wanted to paddle back to see what he’d missed.

Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland
Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

I guess that’s the essential difference between us!

Back at the campground’s cold showers, the high limestone content in the water gave a whole new meaning to ‘sculpted hairdo’ …

Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory
Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

While travelling to these National Parks may take a little longer, the trip is well worth the extravaganza of stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and extraordinary experiences you’ll encounter.

If YOU would like to explore Australia’s National Parks further, Explore Australia’s Explore Australia’s National Parks would make a GREAT investment in your Aussie travel!

The post 6 ALMOST Secret TOP Australian National Parks! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/03/6-almost-secret-top-aussie-national-parks/feed/ 70
Wind, Water and the Lost Art of Whale-Sexing! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/10/wind-water-and-the-lost-art-of-whale-sexing/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/10/wind-water-and-the-lost-art-of-whale-sexing/#comments Sun, 14 Oct 2012 01:40:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=106 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The dry, dusty and unseasonally hot wind that had kept our fuel consumption at an all time high swept us out of the car, whistled around our ankles and bent us double until anchored by our lunch bag we landed in the shelter shed. With any luck, being behind the windbreak would stop our sandwiches filling with sand. Despite the[...]

The post Wind, Water and the Lost Art of Whale-Sexing! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
NEW from RedzAustralia!

Whale with calf at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
Whale with calf at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

The dry, dusty and unseasonally hot wind that had kept our fuel consumption at an all time high swept us out of the car, whistled around our ankles and bent us double until anchored by our lunch bag we landed in the shelter shed.

The Nullarbor Plain through the windscreen, South Australia
The Nullarbor Plain through the windscreen, South Australia

With any luck, being behind the windbreak would stop our sandwiches filling with sand.

Despite the thrill that came with being on one of the largest Karst landforms in the world, and traversing 90 mile Straight (Australia’s longest), so far our virgin crossing of the famous Nullarbor plain wasn’t really doing it for us.

Even the Scenic Public Toilets* were few and far between. Although there were probably more loos than trees (Null = zero, arbor = tree, geddit?) …

34ºC and winds that bent us double. No campsites out of the wind along the way. And a LOOOOONG way to go across the bite-shaped Great Australian Bight that stretches along a third or more of the southern coastline. Hell, we weren’t even half-way across Australia! We almost didn’t stop.

Bright Blue Bight View!  South Australia
Bright Blue Bight View! South Australia

And now, as we lurked behind the wind break, the killer wind was blowing in the exact right direction to sweep us off the cliffs at the Head of Bight Interpretive Centre. Death-by-cliff-top didn’t really appeal, even if the Bunda Cliffs ARE the longest line of cliffs in the world …

The path led through the Interpretive Centre (where we paid our fee) then down to the viewing platforms nestled in the cliffs. Our visit to one of the largest Southern Right Whale breeding grounds and nurseries in the world had better be worthwhile after the dramas we’d faced to get there.

And on a whale viewing platform above the Great Southern Ocean** in peak creche season (May to October), that meant there’d better be whales.

Head of Bight Boardwalk, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
Head of Bight Boardwalk, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

As our wind-assisted passage down the path towards the boardwalks, the bluer than blue water visible over the clifftops stretched far off to an even bluer horizon, unmarred by the black submarine shapes we’d already suffered so much to see.

Bunda Cliffs, Great Australian Bight, South Australia
Bunda Cliffs, Great Australian Bight, South Australia

May as well have just flushed the AUD$12 entry fee down the toilet, I thought as I grimly pushed back against the wind still determined to see me off the cliffs and into the Bight.

Still, I could feel a photo coming on when I saw the boardwalk against the magnificent coastal scenery. I slowed down for the inevitable shot as Pilchard continued down the track.

Then I heard it!

‘It’s a boy!’ a wind-blown traveller exclaimed as she emerged onto the cliff top and drew level with Pilchard. ‘Look down there!’ Pilchard looked, then turned to me and beckoned excitedly.

Bunda Cliffs up close, Great Australian Bight, South Australia
Bunda Cliffs up close, Great Australian Bight, South Australia

‘Forget that photo! It’s much better down here!!’ he cried, as the helpful tourist pointed over the cliff edge and down to the sea. I raced towards them, camera at full stretch and ready for anything.

And there, below us in the water, wallowing RIGHT below us in the water was a whale and her calf. As we both watched (and one of us photographed wildly) the calf put on a fine display directly from the whale-watching handbook.

But one thing was puzzling me. I turned to the helpful traveller.

‘How can you tell it’s a boy?’ I asked, intrigued.

Whale calf at play, Head of Bight, South Australia
Whale calf at play, Head of Bight, South Australia

‘Well, just look at how he’s showing off!’ she replied, as if it was the most obvious thing in the world.  Which perhaps it was.  Is.

Half an hour later, as we reluctantly returned to the hot, dry and dusty Nullarbor, our memory of the spectacular sight of at least 30 whales with calves swimming along the cliffs obscured by one little show off.

Synchronised swimming with mum!  Whales at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia
Synchronised swimming with mum!  Whales at Head of Bight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Years of corporate life failed to equip me with the skills required for whale-sexing, so I am unable to confirm if our friendly guide’s assessment of this little whale’s gender was correct.

But, until a more accurate explanation – or a more highly qualified whale-sexer – comes along to disprove it, I’ll accept her conclusion.

Somehow I think I’ll be waiting for quite some time …

Want More Information?

* Enjoy 60+ of the BEST Aussie Scenic Public Toilets from all around the country! Click HERE to find out how!!

**As it is known to us Aussies – according to the Eyre Peninsula tourist guide, the rest of the world calls it the Indian Ocean!

The post Wind, Water and the Lost Art of Whale-Sexing! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

]]>
https://www.redzaustralia.com/2012/10/wind-water-and-the-lost-art-of-whale-sexing/feed/ 38