Derby Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/derby/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Thu, 06 May 2021 02:44:45 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Derby Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/derby/ 32 32 7 Days from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/06/7-days-from-darwin-to-broome/#comments Mon, 29 Jun 2015 10:15:27 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3785 NEW from RedzAustralia!

How to get from Darwin to Broome! Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave. But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning[...]

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Port of Broome, Western Australia
Port of Broome, Western Australia

How to get from Darwin to Broome!

Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave.

But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning the way you came is to take a road trip. Hire a car if you didn’t drive, and drive across the Top End through the Kimberley from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway!

But be warned! Even though the Darwin to Broome road trip CAN be done in a week, you must carefully pick and choose the sights you want to see or you’ll run out of time. That’s why my 7 day road trip itinerary has optional extras so you can add extra time and extra attractions!

So choose what you’d REALLY like to do from the itinerary and enjoy!

Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway
Victoria River Escarpment from Victoria Highway

Day 1: Darwin to Victoria River Roadhouse

Distance: 510 km

Driving Time: 6-7 hours. Leave as early as possible – there’s a lot to see and do when you reach the Victoria River Roadhouse!

Route & Scenery: Head south from Darwin along the Stuart Highway, passing through tropical bushland and savannah and over low rocky ranges. At Katherine, leave the tropics behind and enter the RED Outback, heading south-west along the Victoria Highway. Near the Roadhouse, the road passes through Judburra/Gregory National Park and Stokes Range.

Points of Interest:

Victoria River Roadhouse
Victoria River Roadhouse, Northern Territory
  • This itinerary assumes you travelled to Darwin via Katherine and have already seen those attractions. For attractions between Darwin and Katherine, see Days 6 and 7 of my Adelaide to Darwin road trip itinerary.
  • Outback scenery and pastoral properties, low ranges and Buntine Highway (alternative route to Halls Creek) turn off
  • From the Victoria River Roadhouse, climb up to the Escarpment Lookout, hike the 1.7 km Joe Creek Loop Walk. Take a look at Australia’s WILDEST river (watch for crocodiles!), watch spectacular sunsets over the Victoria River Escarpment and have a meal at the roadhouse.

Options:

  • Take an extra day to explore attractions en route to Katherine. Stay overnight in Katherine on Day 1 and travel to Victoria River Roadhouse on Day 2.
  • Alternatively, stay at Katherine, then combine Days 2 and 3, seeing the Victoria River Roadhouse sights en route to Timber Creek

Read MORE: Things to do at Victoria River Roadhouse

Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at Sunset
Escarpment View Above Timber Creek at the Lookout at Sunset

Day 2: Victoria River Roadhouse to Timber Creek

Distance: 91 km (yes, you read that right!)

Driving Time: 1 hour (yes, you read that right!)

Route & Scenery: Head west from Victoria River Roadhouse, climb the Victoria River Escarpment and pass through the Stokes Range. Spectacular outback scenery complete with Boab trees all the way!

Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River
Crocodile on the banks of the Victoria River

Points of Interest:

  • Today’s short trip means there’s time to see any attractions around Victoria River you didn’t have time for yesterday.
  • In Timber Creek, book a sunset Victoria River Cruise to see more of Timber Creek, discover Australia’s wildest river, see more crocodiles than you’ve probably ever seen before. AND enjoy drinks and snacks while watching the sunset.

Options:

  • Save Timber Creek for another visit and continue to Keep River National Park campground (150 km), Lake Argyle (190 km) or Kununurra (225 km)
  • Stay an extra night and explore Timber Creek. There’s the historic museum, Escarpment Lookout, crocodile feeding in the creek behind the caravan parks and more of Gregory National Park.

Read MORE: Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s Wildest River

SEE MORE:  Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia
Kununurra from Kellys Knob Lookout, Western Australia

Day 3: Timber Creek to Kununurra

Distance: 225 km

Driving Time: 3 hours (including extra for a WA/NT Border vehicle check – don’t carry fruit, vegetables, plants or flowers). Gain bonus extra time at the border by turning clocks back to WA time!

Route & Scenery: Drive west along the Victoria Highway passing through spectacular ranges and land formations. After the border checkpoint, approx 150 km from Timber Creek, continue to Kununurra.

Points of Interest:

Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
Kununurra Sunset, Lily Creek Lagoon
  • Keep River National Park, sometimes referred to as the Mini Bungle-Bungles, is just 3 km from the WA border.
  • Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, is 34 km off the highway just across the border.

Options:

  • Stay overnight at the Keep River National Park campground for amazing scenery and the 7 km Jarnem Loop Trail
  • Stay an extra night at Lake Argyle for a sunset or morning cruise and a dip in the infinity pool
  • Extend your stay in Kununurra and use it as a base to explore the region thoroughly (including Lake Argyle and Keep River National Park)
  • Stay an extra night at Wyndham to see the amazing Five Rivers Lookout at sunset, and a number of other attractions

Read MORE:

SEE MORE:  Kununurra Photos on Flickr

Caroline Pool via Halls Creek
Caroline Pool via Halls Creek

Day 4: Kununurra to Halls Creek

Distance: 360 km

Driving Time: 4 ½ – 5 hours

Route & Scenery: 46 km west of Kununurra, turn east onto the Great Northern Highway. Spectacular scenery with multi-coloured rock formations through the Carr-Boyd and O’Connell Ranges. Outback scenery with red rock and spinifex closer to Halls Creek.

Points of Interest:

China Wall, via Halls Creek
China Wall, via Halls Creek
  • Doon Doon Roadhouse
  • Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse, Indigenous Arts Centre and Bungle-Bungle Scenic Flights
  • Punululu National Park (Bungle-Bungles)
  • At Halls Creek, visit the China Wall quartz formation, Caroline Pool and Old Halls Creek.

Options:

  • Stay an extra night at Warmun or one of the Bungle-Bungles campgrounds and explore Purnululu National Park
  • Stay an extra night at Halls Creek and visit Wolfe Creek Crater National Park (260 km round trip) on the Tanami Road
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley
Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberley Region, Western Australia

Day 5: Halls Creek to Fitzroy Crossing

Distance: 290 km

Driving Time: 3 ½ – 4 hours

Route & Scenery: Travel south-west from Halls Creek passing through oddly shaped rocky mountains, cliffs and canyons then lightly wooded pastoral country.

Points of Interest:

Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
Spot the person! Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing
  • When in flood, the Fitzroy River has the largest water volume of any river in Australia.  In the world only the Amazon is larger!  Take a look – even if it’s NOT in flood!
  • Take a cruise through Geikie Gorge, a Devonian reef system about 20 km from Fitzroy Crossing.

Options:

  • Stay an extra day and explore Geikie Gorge via several walks, or take a tour to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge.

Read MORE: The Incredible ‘Icebergs’ of Geikie Gorge

Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Sunset over Mangroves and Derby Jetty, Western Australia

Day 6: Fitzroy Crossing to Derby

Distance: 260 km

Driving Time: 3 – 3 ½ hours

Route & Scenery: Head west along the Great Northern Highway and head north at the junction with the Broome-Derby road. It’s then only 40 km to Derby on King Sound.

Points of Interest:

Low Tide at Derby Jetty
Low Tide at Derby Jetty
  • Watch the ebb and flow of the highest tides in Australia from the Derby Jetty. It’s 12 metres above the low tide line.
  • Other Derby attractions include the Jandamarra Heritage Trail, old prison, Boab Prison Tree, Frosty’s Pool, the Long Trough and the Joonjoo Botanic Walk.

Options:

Stay an extra night in Derby and experience the Gibb River Road on the Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour.  Alternatively, visit the Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Waterfall

Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome
Sunset at Gantheaume Point, Broome

Read MORE: The Highest Tide in OZ!

Day 7: Derby to Broome

Distance: 220 km

Driving Time: 2 ½ -3 hours

Route & Scenery: Follow the Great Northern Highway south-west to Broome.

Points of Interest:

Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
Staircase to the Moon, Broome, Western Australia
  • Willare Bridge Roadhouse
  • Roebuck Plains Roadhouse

Read MORE about Broome’s attractions:

SEE MORE:  Broome Photos on Flickr

Broome’s many attractions probably mean you’ll want to stay for a LOT longer than just one night! And why not? You deserve a break after an epic road trip like this!

And anyway, you may as well kick back and enjoy yourself while you work out where to go next!

Want even MORE?

PS  For the record, it took me 28 nights to do the Darwin to Broome Road Trip.  I spent 15 more nights exploring Broome and surrounds!

And I STILL didn’t see everything!

So yes, it CAN be done in 7 days – but if you’ve got the time, you’ll see a LOT more!

Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory
Sunset on the Victoria River, Northern Territory

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7 Random Kimberley Adventures https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/7-random-kimberley-adventures/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/7-random-kimberley-adventures/#comments Sun, 23 Nov 2014 09:55:45 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=2840 NEW from RedzAustralia!

By Northern Hemisphere standards, winter in many areas of Australia isn’t particularly cold. But that doesn’t stop a mass exodus from the ‘cold’ south during the Aussie winter (officially June/July/August), to the north where it’s actually hot! But it’s not just the average daily maximum of around 30 °C that makes the Kimberley region stretching across the north of Western[...]

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Lake Argyle from Lookout, Western Australia
Lake Argyle from Lookout, Western Australia

By Northern Hemisphere standards, winter in many areas of Australia isn’t particularly cold. But that doesn’t stop a mass exodus from the ‘cold’ south during the Aussie winter (officially June/July/August), to the north where it’s actually hot!

But it’s not just the average daily maximum of around 30 °C that makes the Kimberley region stretching across the north of Western Australia attractive in winter.

There’s also the spectacular scenery. Unique land formations and oddities. An intriguing indigenous and colonial history. And a chance to experience the remote outback. It’s crocodile country – and wild Australia at its best!

But there’s a LOT of it. So where do you start?

With this sampler of 7 Random Kimberley Adventures, right here on RedzAustralia, of course!

1 Lake Argyle Morning Cruise

“Freakin’ HUGE” is the best technical term for Australia’s largest artificial lake formed when the Ord River was dammed. At nearly 11 million megalitres (18 times bigger than Sydney Harbour) of water spread over 1000 km², Lake Argyle is recognised as one of the world’s great engineering feats.

Infinity Pool, Lake Argyle
Infinity Pool, Lake Argyle, Western Australia

But the staggering Kimberley scenery was too distracting for statistics on our early morning cruise as we sped over the tranquil surface of this inland sea, for kilometre after punishing kilometre until the horizon was a world of water interrupted only by the islands we passed. Actually, they’re mountain tops from the ranges submerged by the waters of the lake.

But the lake’s 35,000 crocodiles are by far the most impressive mega-statistics in this larger-than-life landscape. And although they’re reportedly the less dangerous freshwater crocs, they breed unabated as natural predators are no longer a part of this artificial environment. BUT! Over the years, a few small saltwater crocodiles have been found. I guess 1.5 metres is small when you’re a saltie …

Islands on Lake Argyle
Islands on Lake Argyle, Western Australia

Given the relatively small sector of the lake we travelled, it’s hardly surprising that of the lake’s estimated 35,000 crocodiles – ie one to every 314 megalitres – we only saw two.

And while I could find no reports of whether or not their presence distracts swimmers in Lake Argyle’s annual 10 and 20 km swimming races, I KNOW they’ll never get the chance to distract me! Not when there’s a knockout infinity pool to swim in way above the crocs’ stamping ground!

MORE about Lake Argyle and Lake Argyle Cruises

2 Willie Creek Helicopter Flight

Willie Creek, Western Australia
Willie Creek from the air, via Broome, Western Australia

In retrospect, taking a helicopter flight above a crocodile infested creek probably wasn’t the best choice of tour for an Aviophobic. But as the chopper swung out above Willie Creek Pearl Farm and over the work of art along the coastline created as the almost-highest tides in the Southern Hemisphere shifted sandbanks against the greens and blues of the water, I forgot my fears. Maybe snapping about 300 photos was a successful distraction as well.

As was the thought of buying a souvenir from the pearl farm shop on our return. If we made it.

I didn’t want to be rude to the enthusiastic young pilot, but I didn’t care that we were flying over the exact spot where Miranda Kerr once modelled something or other. Couldn’t he see I wasn’t a Miranda-wannabee, even if her ex and I shared a star sign? Besides, the chances of the sandbanks being exactly as they were when Miranda languished upon them were fairly remote – with tonnes of sand and metres of water swirling about twice a day, finding the ‘same’ sandbank two days in a row had about the same probability as Miranda and I being mistaken for twins.

Willie Creek Blues
Willie Creek Blues, via Broome, Western Australia

‘Is that big crocodile still down there on the sandbank?’ he asked as we circled back across the creek towards the Pearl Farm, as my white knuckles turned numb with the strain of keeping the helicopter in the air*.

It wasn’t. Sadly. Because that meant when the helicopter plunged into the creek, the croc was already there waiting for us. But I knew that at least in one thing I was WAAAAAY ahead of Miranda. And as I’d provide him with several more meals than Miranda would, I knew who he’d choose first. Who says supermodels have all the fun?

Strangely enough, despite my death wish, we landed without misadventure. And the $9 black seed pearl ring I selected from the childrens gift section suited me just fine.

What a shame it didn’t come in RED!

MORE about Willie Creek Helicopter Tours

3 Marlgu Billabong Croc-Spotting

The 15 km trek south from Wyndham to Marlgu Billabong passes through a dry-season Kimberley landscape with boab tree silhouettes against a low-lying mountain range against a bright blue sky – clear but for the dust haze – and a red, red road winding through grassy plains.

Track to Marlgu Billabong
Boab Trees on the road to Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

Yes, this classic Kimberley scenery is dry. VERY dry.

So you really can’t miss the unexpectedly long green and blue scar of Marlgu Billabong that slashes through the golden grass and dusty rocks of this arid landscape, sucking all the bird and animal life into its vortex!. It’s the go-to place for all sorts of wildlife viewing. Think bird watching. Crocodile hunting. And the most exciting activity of them all – people observation!

Marlgu Billabong
Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia

Although that tends to take a back seat when the crocodiles are smiling!

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

4 Gibb River Road Dynamic Duo

If your constitution, holiday time-frame or rig isn’t up for several days of the 600+ km of rough, rugged, rocky tyre-shredding ‘road’ that is Australia’s most iconic road trip, don’t panic. There’s still an opportunity to see more corrugations, bull dust and 4WD fanatics than you ever dreamed of on a one-day ~360 km round trip tour along the notorious road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek with a random selection of other passengers driven by a fearless Israeli on a RED 4WD bus.

Tour Bus at Tunnel Creek
Tour Bus at Tunnel Creek, Gibb River Road, Western Australia

It even doubles as a school bus in its spare time!

Before the Gibb River Road became a Boys Own Adventureland, Indigenous warrior and activist Tjandamarra conducted a campaign for the rights of his people against colonial settlers. With staggering scenery, crocodiles and other wildlife, and a strong cultural history, this tour from Derby guarantees the thrills of the Gibb River Road without damaging your own rig. Win-win, right?

But make no mistake. The road’s so rough I should’ve invested in a sports bra!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour

Low Tide at Derby
Low Tide at Derby Jetty

5 Australia’s Highest Tides

I’m a sucker for a World exclusive! But an Aussie one will do the trick – especially when it’s served up with a killer sunset so magnificent you forget that Australia’s highest tidal range is also served up with some killer hazards!

At low tide, signs on the Derby jetty warn of the 12 metre drop to the oozing mud below. And at high tide, it’s only a short drop into what have magically become crocodile infested waters. In between, the treacherous racing currents formed by the monster tides racing up and down King Sound form their own hazards.

High Tide
High Tide at Derby Jetty

But as the sun sinks into oblivion over the Sound, and the council worker with the unenviable task of clearing the fisherfolk, tourists and photographers from the jetty before dark starts his rounds, the hazards seem a long, long way away!

MORE about Australia’s Highest Tides

6 Geikie Gorge

I’ve never seen a real, live iceberg anywhere ever, but I certainly didn’t expect to see them in the middle of the Aussie Outback!

Just as well, because I didn’t!!

Geikie Gorge Limestone
Limestone ‘Iceberg’ at Geikie Gorge, via Fitzroy Crossing

But the fantastically water-worn white surfaces of the ancient limestone reef as our boat drifted down Geikie Gorge are as close as I’ve ever been – so far! It’s also one of Australia’s largest rivers with a catchment area of 90,000 km² – and a flow rate of 30,000 m³ per second when it’s in flood, up to 26 metres above the old crossing. (Note to self: stay away during the wet season)

That’s WAY more than enough water to carve the limestone into the bizarre shapes and patterns towering high above us as the boat chugged its way up the gorge, although it’s hard to imagine the impact of 26 metres of water flowing above us.

Geikie Gorge
Geikie Gorge Boat Cruise, Western Australia

I don’t know where the freshwater crocodiles go when the river’s in full flood, but they don’t go anywhere when it’s not. Seeing a crocodile – or several – is almost a sure thing on both the cruise AND the gorge walks that follow the river.

So I’m betting it’s the only place in the world that serves up crocodiles with its ‘icebergs’!

MORE about Geikie Gorge

7 Kununurra Campsite

There ARE some advantages to having a low-tech rig. Despite the crowds of grey nomads seeking caravan park sites, we scored a spacious, shaded campsite in a prime lakefront position at the Kununurra Lakeside Resort because, unlike many of the bigger rigs, we could live without power and mains pressure water.

Kununurra Sunset
Kununurra Sunset from our Campsite

It was worth it.

During the heat of the day we rested in the shade and watched the bird life on Lily Creek Lagoon, a few metres from our camper trailer. In the evening, we watched the killer Kimberley sunsets sinking behind the lake. And at night, the red glow from the eyes of the crocodiles in the lagoon reflected from the beams of our torch.

What’s NOT to love?

The Bird dries off after being rescued
The Bird dries off after being rescued

A few days into our stay, we noticed a commotion a few metres out from shore. A bird had mistaken the lily pads for firm ground while taking a bath and had fallen in. Now its feathers were soaking wet and it was unable to haul itself onto the relative safety of the lily pad.

Would YOU enter a croc-infested lagoon to save a bird from almost certain death by drowning? If you’re thinking ‘NO WAY’, then I’m with you. But luckily the freshies weren’t hungry that day because Pilchard and two nearby campers waded in to the shallows with a fishing rod and rescued the bird – and all survived unscathed without losing any limbs!

Perhaps they were just unappetising??

THIS bird walks on water! Comb-crested Jacana
THIS bird walks on water! Comb-crested Jacana

Want MORE?

* It’s a little known fact that those afflicted with fear of flying can keep a flying object (like a plane or helicopter) airborne through a combination of sheer willpower AND gripping the armrests tightly enough to stop them vibrating. Try it sometime!

Derby Sunset
Derby Sunset, Western Australia

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The HIGHEST Tide in OZ! Derby, Western Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/07/the-highest-tide-in-oz-derby-western-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/07/the-highest-tide-in-oz-derby-western-australia/#comments Wed, 31 Jul 2013 04:01:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=32 NEW from RedzAustralia!

The splendiferous sun sank into the shadowy waters on this balmy OZ winter’s evening with a sensational splash of colour. The superb sunset would make a good stand-alone shot. But a prop or two would turn it into a GREAT one! Luckily for me, this July 2012 Derby sunset over stunning King Sound in Australia’s North West had three: a massive[...]

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Sunset over King Sound from Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Sunset over King Sound from Derby Jetty, Western Australia

The splendiferous sun sank into the shadowy waters on this balmy OZ winter’s evening with a sensational splash of colour.

The superb sunset would make a good stand-alone shot. But a prop or two would turn it into a GREAT one!
Sunset, Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Watching the sunset, Derby Jetty, Western Australia

Luckily for me, this July 2012 Derby sunset over stunning King Sound in Australia’s North West had three:

  • a massive jetty;
  • lots of people; AND
  • street lamps!
My shutter finger itched wildly so I let it have its way.
The Tide comes in over the mangroves, Derby, Western Australia
The Tide comes in over the mangroves, Derby, Western Australia
It wasn’t every day I got to photograph a sunset like this behind a jetty like that with people like those under perfectly placed photogenic street lamps! AND all against the swirling waters of Australia’s highest tide!

With a range of up to 12 metres (39 feet), the tidal phenomenon is best viewed against the backdrop of the LOOONG jetty – and its street lamps – while crocodiles and sharks lurk in the muddied waters below.

High Tide at Derby Jetty
High Tide at Derby Jetty, Western Australia

Influenced by the funnel-shaped coastline, as well as the normal tidal action of sun and moon, the extraordinary volume of water moving into and out of the Sound stirs up the mud deposited there during the wet season.

Even a high tide of only 10.83 metres (35.5 feet) – like the first macro tide we saw at Derby – is a sea of brownish water lapping gently just below the jetty.
The Tide goes out ... Derby Jetty
The Tide goes out … Derby Jetty, Western Australia

So imagine how the King Tides that flood the whole car park would look!

But low tide is a whole different story.
Low Tide at Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Low Tide at Derby Jetty, Western Australia

The signs warning against falling from the wharf don’t detail the selection of fates that await – at low tide, there’s only the mud many metres below to break your fall.

At high tide, you’re MUCH more likely to survive the plunge – but the strong currents are waiting to carry you off to the crocodiles!

It's a LONG way down! Derby Jetty at Low Tide!
It’s a LONG way down! Derby Jetty at Low Tide!
It’s no surprise the last passenger ship visited in 1973 – berthing a boat in conditions like these must be a logistical nightmare!
But on the jetty as the sun sinks below the crocodile infested waters and a lone council worker with the unenviable task of moving the vehicles off the wharf before lock up starts his lonely rounds, the sky’s like a painting above us as the highest tide in Australia roars in and the stars come out.
Sunset, Street Lamps and King Sound, Derby, Western Australia
Sunset, Street Lamps and King Sound, Derby, Western Australia
And the street lamps light up!

Want MORE?

 

Street Lamps ON at Derby Jetty, Western Australia
Street Lamps ON at Derby Jetty, Western Australia

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6 Random Moments at the Broome Bird Observatory! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/6-random-moments-at-the-broome-bird-observatory/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/06/6-random-moments-at-the-broome-bird-observatory/#comments Thu, 13 Jun 2013 04:41:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=42 NEW from RedzAustralia!

1 The Gun Birder* Driving a bouncing 4WD with 4 passengers along a rough station track in search of Australia’s rarest bird wasn’t cramping the gun birder’s style one bit. All I could see were the vast, rolling plains of grass and samphire stretching to the horizon against an endless blue sky. But our driver and guide on the Broome[...]

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Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory
Blue Sky, Blue Sea – and RED Pindan, Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory

1 The Gun Birder*

Driving a bouncing 4WD with 4 passengers along a rough station track in search of Australia’s rarest bird wasn’t cramping the gun birder’s style one bit. All I could see were the vast, rolling plains of grass and samphire stretching to the horizon against an endless blue sky.

But our driver and guide on the Broome Bird Observatory Yellow Chat tour was unfazed by the spectacular scenery.  He could spot a bird at a hundred paces.

Calling birds to the left, right, in front and behind, he parked the 4WD at the massive lagoon, site of multiple Yellow Chat sightings.  He handed out the telescopes and set off at a brisk trot through the probably snake-ridden samphire towards the middle distance. The non-birdo Melbourne yuppie couple who’d joined us on the tour glanced at each other apprehensively. I guessed the tour wasn’t exactly what they’d thought.

A-birding we will go! Hunting the elusive Yellow Chat, via Broome Western Australia
A-birding we will go! Hunting the elusive Yellow Chat, via Broome Western Australia

Then I saw it. Over by the lagoon, a dark bird shape lurked on the shore! I pointed it out to Pilchard. And the yuppies. AND the GUN BIRDER! Who immediately trained a telescope in the general direction and invited me to step up and identify the bird. As if.

But I obligingly hoisted my camera out of the way and peered through the eye-piece, immediately diagnosing why the bird hadn’t moved.

Because even when they’re bird-shaped, pieces of driftwood rarely do.

At least the sudden and immediate loss of credibility left me free to take photos. And I DID see the elusive Yellow Chat – although YOU won’t! Not here, anyway. They were too far away to get a good shot.

But who’d doubt a gun birder??

*Gun Birder = Birding expert

Low Tide at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia
Low Tide at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

2 The Massive Blush

Warning Sign, Roebuck Bay
Warning Sign, Roebuck Bay

The Broome Bird Observatory is one of the most significant migratory shore bird sites in the world. Thousands of waders, and more than 300 species congregate on the shores each year.

But it’s still apparently OK to drive along the pristine shores of Roebuck Bay.

Because negotiating the huge 9+ metre tide and treacherous rock, mangrove and soft sand hazards REALLY gives those driving skills a workout, wouldn’t it?!

The tide rolls in ...
The tide rolls in …

Even if it is a bummer for the poor birds …

Having to phone a friend to pull you out when you’re bogged might be a little embarrassing.

But then who do you call when BOTH of you are hopelessly bogged and that massive tide’s rolling in??

Tide's out!
Tide’s out!

However, the chances of the skipper getting massive all-body blush when explaining to the insurance company why two vehicles were trapped in the bay were actually very low.

Because from all accounts there WAS no insurance …

3 The Fog

In north-west western Australia’s Broome region, the Indigenous Yawuru people’s season of Barrgana has certain characteristics.   We could expect day after punishing day of endless blue sky, daytime maximum temperatures between 28°and 31° C, coolish nights and no rain.

Foggy Morning, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia
Foggy Morning, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

That’s why the smart travellers head to Broome during the Aussie winter from June to August.

The smart birders head to the Broome Bird Observatory in August.  That’s because as the temperatures increase, the migrating wading birds start to arrive.

Fog and Dew - isn't this the DRY season?
Fog and Dew – isn’t this the DRY season?

A change dropping the temperature by a few degrees was a welcome respite from the mini-heatwave in the depths of the moistureless and arid dry season.

But who knew an early morning fog would momentarily change the landscape into a magical wonderland??

4 The Birds, the BIRDS!

After my embarrassing sighting of the rare driftwood bird (see #1 above), I spent the rest of our BBO stay with my mouth firmly – and uncharacteristically – shut. I and my small camera with the non-detachable lens were decidedly outclassed by the big lens birding brigade.  So my photos from the Broome Bird Observatory show embarrassingly few actual birds.

Maybe my big bird photography lens envy was cramping my style.

Mostly Red-necked Avocet
Mostly Red-necked Avocet – Spot the ODD one out!!!

I swung our borrowed ‘scope (that’s ‘telescope’ for you non-birders out there) along the length of ‘Wader Bay’.  Suddenly, the morass of what I thought to be pebbles and rocks at the waters edge jumped into focus and became hundreds and thousands of birds!!

We clocked up lifer after lifer (birds we’d never seen before) through the magical magnification of ‘scope and bins (binoculars!).  But although the huge mixed flocks moved ever closer with the tides, they remained resolutely rock-like in my photos.

Strangely enough, many birds failed to present in perfect photographic pose, with their best side conveniently facing my looming lens.

Colours of Roebuck Bay, Western Australia
Colours of Roebuck Bay, Western Australia

Is it so wrong to prefer mediocre landscape photography to mediocre wildlife photography?

Birds spotted at Broome Bird Observatory!
Birds spotted AND badly photographed at Broome Bird Observatory!

5 And the Birders …

NOT Birds - Mulla Mullas!!
NOT Birds – Mulla Mullas!!

NOT possessing the birding gene can work against one at the Broome Bird Observatory, but it isn’t necessarily a character flaw! It’s actually an advantage to budding anthropologists wishing to observe the daily life of participants in the extreme sport of bird-watching.

Of course it’d be rude to point out the birder’s quirks, flaws and foibles.

Pindan Road to Broome Bird Observatory
Pindan Road to Broome Bird Observatory

Birds?  Or NON-birds??

So instead, I’ve listed a few observations to demonstrate SIX subtle differences between ME and the REAL birders:

  1. Seeing ANY bird in the distance isn’t a signal to immediately stop what I’m doing and raise my binoculars.
  2. ‘Eating’ and ‘Birdwatching’ are mutually exclusive activities. So are ‘Conversing’ and ‘Birdwatching’.
  3. I’m a recovering non-birder with a photographic fixation. Don’t hate me because some of my photos don’t have birds in them.
  4. Call me crazy, but I’ve been known to select holiday destinations without knowing what birds I’ll see there. And I collect brochures about attractions other than birding hotspots.
  5. ‘Good Morning’ means ‘Good Morning’. NOT ‘How many birds have you seen already today, what were they and where were they?’
  6. I don’t know how many birds are on my ‘lifer’ list. No, I don’t want – or need – any help with that.

6  Is the Sea Blue?  OR BROWN?!

Fresh from King Sound and the highest tides in the Southern Hemisphere, the school group from just up the coast in Derby descended on the Broome Bird Observatory viewing platform like a flock of rampaging emus.

Roebuck Bay at Low Tide, Western Australia
Roebuck Bay at Low Tide, Western Australia

Any self-respecting bird would run a mile.

But the famous Roebuck Bay tranquillity slowly worked its magic. Well … that and a few well-chosen witticisms from the long-suffering teachers.

‘Send me a postcard, mate,’ one teacher called out over the hubbub to a young student indulging his not-so-secret passion for telescope wrangling.

‘What, miss?’ He turned, puzzled.

‘Because if you keep that up, you’ll be WALKING home to Derby,’ she shot back at him.

Chastened, the group calmed and looked out over the famous blue, Blue, BLUE of the bay.

‘Where’s the mud, miss?’ another student ventured.

This time I was puzzled. Until I recalled that not so far up the coast at Derby, the tidal movement of the 9th biggest tide in the world moves tonnes of mud up and down King Sound.

Brown Tide rolling in at Derby, Western Australia
Brown Tide rolling in at Derby, Western Australia

So for these students brought up on its shores, the sea is BROWN! Who says travel doesn’t broaden the mind?!?!

Tawny Frogmouth, Broome Bird Observatory
Tawny Frogmouth, Broome Bird Observatory

But hiding in the twisted branches of a tree just a few metres away from the fractured peace of this rollicking school excursion, Tawny Frogmouth slept on, safe in his daytime disguise …

 

Visit the Broome Bird Observatory

A few kilometres north of Broome and run by Birdlife Australia, the Broome Bird Observatory is a rare opportunity to explore a different side of Australia.  If you’re not afraid to rub shoulders with birdos, it offers accommodation, a camp-ground and tours to birding hotspots.

You don’t have to be a twitcher (ie birdwatcher) to explore the stunning coastline.  You can also discover amazing wildlife and wildflowers, walk the trails through woodland habitats or relax around the evening campfire.

But if you DO get the chance to experience this staggeringly scenic hideaway, I bet you’ll be back for more …

Have I talked you into it?  Get started on YOUR Broome adventure with cheap flights right here!

Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory, via Broome, Western Australia
Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory, via Broome, Western Australia

Want MORE?

 

The post 6 Random Moments at the Broome Bird Observatory! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

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