Sand dunes and shipwrecks.  A wild and windswept heli-pad. Magnificent cliffs, an old wooden railway transport line and exotic lighthouses. Historic ruins and a sailor a long way from home.  None of these are visible from the entrance to Innes National Park.

And you can’t see them from the ~30 km of road winding through the park.

To discover the history, see the sights and uncover the mysteries you’ve got to go behind the scenes and take one or more of the 7 sensational walks in Innes National Park.

Although the superb view from almost any vantage point along that road is SO distracting you’ll be tempted to keep driving from lookout to lookout, take the walks for an even better chance of scenic overload!

AND as well as the attractions above, there’s wildlife, spring wildflowers, history and some of South Australia’s most spectacular coastal scenery – including Public Loos so scenic some of them are in MY BOOK!

SO … take the trails teaser tour TODAY!

1 Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk (2 km circuit)

On a fine day the view over the Stenhouse Bay jetty takes some beating in the scenic stakes. That’s why it’s usually our first stopping off point after entering the park a few kilometres south-west of Marion Bay.

From the park entrance it’s only a short drive to the jetty – and the town that the Waratah Gypsum Company built in 1900, although there’s not much of it left.

It’s also the trailhead for the Lookout Walk – a 2 km circuit that shows off what IS left and the track passes rusting machinery; interpretive signs explaining the bay’s historic significance; and 9 lookouts showcasing the spectacular views to the islands in Investigator Strait and the Rhino’s Head (see above)!

Which has to be one of Australia’s most OBVIOUS place names!

But the most memorable thing for me on this walk isn’t the scenery, wildflowers or wildlife. It’s the grave of a sailor buried in this lonely outpost far from home.

Rest in peace, Dao Thanh.

2 Cape Spencer Lighthouse (600 m return)

This is the shortest of the walks in Innes National Park.

The track from the car park to the lighthouse on the Cape runs along a ridgetop with massive cliffs on one side and exposed slopes running down to the pounding seas below on the other. I didn’t need the signs warning walkers not to go too close to the edge – it’s a sheer drop off way Way WAY down to the water.

No photo is worth taking the fall!! Does that mean I’m not a REAL photographer??

Directly across the strait from the lighthouse are the Althorp Islands, site of several shipwrecks and another lighthouse – a stunning two-lighthouse view! And with a coastline THIS rugged in all directions, the lighthouse/shipwreck thing starts to make sense.

3 Inneston Historic Walk (2km circuit)

If you’ve already walked the previous two trails, the historic township of Inneston (you’ll NEVER guess the name of the bloke who founded it was William Innes!), provides a welcome break from the relentlessly staggering coastal scenery.

Although it’s got it’s own attractions …

Tragically, while the town that once supported the budding gypsum mining industry was at one stage big enough to support its own bakery, neither are operational today. But the walking track shows off the town’s highlights, including restored buildings, Inneston Lake, spectacular spring wildflowers – the freesias are particularly fabulous – and wildlife such as emus, malleefowl and kangaroos.

You’ve probably realised by now you won’t be able to complete all these walks in one day. So if you’re looking for a cool place to stay, try Inneston’s heritage accommodation – if you can live without TV or mobile access, that is!

4 Thomson-Pfitzner Plaster Trail (7.6 km)

Once upon a time, the walk from the trailhead at Inneston – an extension of the historic trail (above) – meant getting to Rhino’s Tavern at Stenhouse Bay 3.8 km away in time for lunch before returning along this old wooden railway line that once connected the two towns.

Sadly, the tavern has now closed so carry enough food, water and supplies for a 7.6 km return trek. But it’s an easy walk through the trees and along the embankment upon which the railway line was built, with fragments of the gypsum cargo lying among the leaf litter – and spring orchids – where they fell many years ago.

Not much of the railway track remains today, but there’s a sense of the past that lingers along the line where horses once drew heavy loads of gypsum from the mining sites to the Stenhouse Bay jetty.

Other than glimpses of the sea near Inneston and Stenhouse Bay, this walk is another opportunity to escape the superb coastal scenery – if you need to!!

5 West Cape Headland Hike (1 km circuit)

If you were still wondering about the lighthouse/shipwreck thing first encountered at Cape Spencer, West Cape will leave you in no doubt.

The stretch of (almost) deserted beach stretching out below the long, wooden stairway down to the sand many metres below is an impressive sight. But the view’s even better from the top of the Cape, where a trail to the lighthouse goes just a little closer to the cliffs than I’m comfortable with, especially when the wind is strong!

Hold on to your children – unless they happen to be particularly noisy, naughty or nasty – it’s sometimes hard to stay fully upright when the wind’s up. There probably won’t be many days when a helicopter could land on the heli-pad next to the unusual lighthouse atop this windswept spot (see first photo above), but it’s nice to know it’s sometimes possible.

But the sight (and site!) of one of Australia’s most scenic public loos, with beach views in one direction and the scenic splendour of Pondalowie Bay in the other make braving the wind worthwhile.

6 Royston Head (4km return)

If trails along the top of high cliffs with no barriers between you and the sea a LONG way below make you nervous, then the Royston Head walk isn’t likely to make you feel any better. But swallow that fear, if you can – this is one of the most spectacular spots in the park.

In my humble opinion.

The walk winds up from Dolphin Beach through the dunes before reaching the exposed cliff tops of the Head – an interesting range of habitats, vegetation and wildlife that you’ll promptly forget when faced with the awesome view at the end of the hike!

That’s why this is one of my favourite walks in Innes National Park!

7 Gym Beach (11 km return)

Although it’s part of Innes National Park, Gym Beach isn’t accessible via the main road through the park. The alternate route from Marion Bay gives access – but then there’s no direct road access to the rest of the park without returning to Marion Bay.

Luckily, the hike starting near Browns Beach along the back of the dunes is an introduction to the varied coastal vegetation habitats as well as providing access to Gym Beach. Although it’s a LONG way to go for a swim!

Strangely enough, the walk can be done without laying eyes on either beach – although doing that would deprive you of two of South Australia’s BEST beaches!

Walks in Innes National Park are suitable for most people – and if I can do them all, then so can you! Enjoy!!

FAST FACTS:

WHERE: Innes National Park is at the south-western tip of the Yorke Peninsula, and is around 300 km south-west of Adelaide

WHAT to do: Walking trails, Beaches, Surfing, Fishing, Wildflowers, Wildlife, Camping, Historic Ruins

WHEN: All year round

COST: Park entry fees ($10 per car/$8 concession as at April 2015) and Camping fees apply, and must be pre-booked and paid online HERE

STAY: The park has several camping areas. Heritage Accommodation is also available at Inneston. Nearby Marion Bay has a range of accommodation, including a caravan park.  Other Yorke Peninsula Towns also offer accommodation.

Want MORE?

• RedzAustralia does the rest of Innes National Park
• Innes National Park
• Yorke Peninsula
• MORE Innes National Park and Yorke Peninsula Photos on Flickr

The post 7 Wonderful Walks in Innes National Park appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Visit Innes National Park on a fine day and if you don’t end up with a photo that looks close to the one above, you’re just not trying!

But joining the ‘Entrance to Innes National Park’ photo club isn’t the only reason to visit this smallish 9400+ hectare National Park.  It’s around 300 km from Adelaide on the toe of the ‘ill shaped leg’ (take the link to see it on the map) that is South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula.

Although I’d been here several times over the last few years, we had never actually stayed there until now. We left the camper trailer at home and stayed in the restored Engineers cottage in historic Inneston for a few days, right inside the park with entry fees included in the tariff.

If only I could say that this meant getting up early for sunrise shots, but alas …

However, being on site made our exploration MUCH more leisurely!

So let me give you my updated insider’s TOP 7 things to do – a true traveller’s teaser taste of all that’s GREAT about this FAAAABULOUS spot!

1.  The Wildlife

Thanks to a close encounter at Inneston, I know EXACTLY what to do if attacked by an emu! Just raise your hands above your head, and walk backwards until you get to a place where you can run like hell!!

You might have to forget the photo …

Getting a little too close to an emu with chicks during spring hatching season isn’t recommended. In a civilised gender role reversal rarely seen elsewhere in the animal kingdom, it’s the male who sits on the eggs and cares for the young – the female is long gone by then!

But hard core twitchers* come here for the rare Western Whipbird – the reason for the park’s proclamation in 1970, it’s virtually the whipbird’s southernmost limit and one of the few habitats preventing it from being a Western Australian endemic. It’s also a known nesting area for Malleefowl with regular sightings in and around Inneston.

And if you don’t see a kangaroo somewhere in the park, don’t bother buying a lottery ticket … you’re obviously the world’s most unlucky person!

2.  The Scenery

If magnificent (and nearly empty) beaches, rugged rocky cliffs, towering sand dunes, coastal vegetation, jewel like islands, lakes and wild coastlines leave you cold, then Innes National Park probably isn’t for you.

But while you’re gazing out over the Great Southern Ocean at a cliff top lookout, bear in mind that if not for the sea spray, waves and curvature of the earth, you’d be able to see clear to Antarctica!

3.  The History

The four clans of the Aboriginal Narungga nation maintain strong cultural links to the Yorke Peninsula area, and the historic campsites and shell middens found in the park.

Charted by Matthew Flinders over 200 years ago, the remains of civilisation from the area’s early 1900’s settlement are scattered throughout the park, including the not-quite-ghost-town of Inneston, unsurprisingly established by William Innes. In its heyday, Inneston’s Gypsum mining, with a port at nearby Stenhouse Bay supported a peak population of around 200.

Interpretive signage along the Investigator Strait Shipwreck trail tells tales of the treacherous rocks, reefs and unpredictable weather that sank many ships. Down on Ethel beach, the ever-diminishing remains of the Ethel, wrecked in 1904, show how dangerous these waters can be.

4.  The Lighthouses

And that’s where the lighthouses come in! There’s good reason why the lighthouses at Cape Spencer (see photo above) and West Cape – both accessible by short walking trails – are still operational, with Cape Spencer lighting up the night sky a short distance from our accommodation at Inneston.

But the unusual designs of all-metal West Cape and rectangular Cape Spencer lighthouses AND the amazing vistas from Cape Spencer over the cliffs and out to the Althorpe group of islands (where the Althorpe Island lighthouse overlooks 6 shipwrecks) and the panorama from West Cape across Pondalowie Bay (see photo below) make them worth re-visiting at any time of day!!

Which is the best?? It’s a near thing – but its scenic public toilet to die for (Yes! It’s in MY BOOK!) gives West Cape the edge!

5.  The Wildflowers

It’s worth visiting the park in a good season just for the bright RED Cocky’s Tongue lining the roads. And the RED Correa.

But believe it or not, there are also a few NOT RED wildflowers in Spring (Sept-Nov down here!) and half the fun of a walk in the park is finding them.

Heavily perfumed and delicately coloured Freesias are everywhere – especially in what were once the settled areas,

their beauty a compelling argument against getting rid of non-natives!

If you’re lucky enough to visit in spring, be warned! Wandering the tracks around Inneston can put you in quite serious danger of wildflower overload!

6.  The Beaches

Just how many miles of empty, unspoiled beach stretching off into the middle distance can you take? While access to some of the beaches may take a little effort with steep and treacherous tracks, who wouldn’t want to try to make it down to Browns Beach?  Where yes, there ARE two other people …

Or to explore the Ethel Wreck (see photo above)??

But I’ll leave it to you to decide if a bad weather day makes the West Cape beach more or less of an attraction!!

7.  The Walks

Exploring Innes National Park on foot is one of the best ways to experience everything.

Wander the 11 km round trip Gym Beach walk or the 4km return Royston Head hike for wildflowers, amazing coastal scenery and beaches. Do the 1 km loop West Cape Headland hike right past the lighthouse and that awesome view. Walk through Inneston and along the Thomson-Pfitzner Plaster trail for a taste of history, wildflowers and wildlife, and the short South Cape lighthouse walk for scenery.

And do the Stenhouse Bay Lookout walk for ALL of the above.

Yes, it’s SO sounding like you’re going to need to spend more than a day here, right? And given my total lack of photo manipulation skills, this really IS what it looks like. So if it seems as if the jewel-like Innes National Park with its bountiful natural attractions is just a little too good to be true, then my work is done.

But I don’t think I could prove electronic photo theft of my first shot given the omnipresence of ‘Entrance to Innes National Park’ shots on the web!

* Twitcher = Birdwatcher! Go figure!!

Want MORE?

• Walks of Innes National Park
• Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
• Inneston Heritage Accomodation, Innes National Park
• Yorke Peninsula in 7 Days – my Rocky Travel guest post
• More photos of Innes National Park and Yorke Peninsula on Flickr

The post The Jewel in the Toe – Innes National Park, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

It’s a mystery to me why Innes National Park (INP) isn’t on any Top 10 Australian National Parks lists. At the south-western tip of Yorke Peninsula’s ‘toe’ (you’ll see what I mean on the map) its wild and remote beauty is unique.

BUT … perhaps the unparalleled coastal scenery, historic buildings, walking trails, shipwreck sites, deserted beaches, fishing, lighthouses, wildlife and stunning wildflowers in season in the park just don’t stack up against the nations’ finest. Maybe I’ve got it wrong.

So is this place REALLY awesome? Or is it just me?? Take my tour of the highlights, and decide for yourself!

Above is  the old gypsum mine loading facility at the Stenhouse Bay jetty. And here’s the jetty itself. Can you imagine a better spot for a day’s fishing? There’s a walk to the lookout at the top of the hill if you want an even more panoramic vista.

And here’s the view towards Chinaman’s Hat Island and Cable Bay camp ground as you head into the park towards the Cape Spencer lighthouse. The short walk to the lighthouse gives magnificent views on either side of the ridge top, and ahead to the islands.

But don’t just take my word for it … the picture at the end of the post shows it all clearly!

The Inneston ruins and lake are where the gypsum mine operated in the early 1900’s. The Thomson-Pfitzner walking track follows the old wooden railway line used to transport gypsum to Stenhouse bay and the jetty. It’s 4km each way – but luckily you can have lunch at the Rhino’s Head tavern at the half way mark!

Here’s Inneston, and the INP birdwatcher’s trifecta – Emu, Mallee Fowl and Western Whipbird – MAY be spotted on the walking track. Although Western Whipbird is the reason for INP’s proclamation, it remains elusive. BUT … we’ve sighted Australian Shelduck with young on the lake, and Southern Scrub Robin on the track. It’s not all ruins – people live here, and some of the cottages are available for rent if you’re looking for a place to stay.

Below is the Ethel wreck, one of several in the area. Depending on tidal, storm and/or sand activity you may see more or less than this! Get right down to the beach for a closer look.

The recently renovated rest area (how’s that for alliteration?!?!) at West Cape Lighthouse has arguably one of the most spectacular coastal views in INP, even more so from the short walk to the lighthouse. But be warned!

The winds can be fierce – luckily there’s a sign in case you hadn’t noticed …

The north western section of the park includes beaches to rival the tropics. Don’t believe me?

Here’s Brown’s Beach (left) – popular for fishing, surfing and hiking, this area of the park has several camp grounds and some serious walking tracks.

Try the 11 km return trip through to Gym Beach at the northernmost limit of the park.

And if you can get down to the Cape Spencer Beach below the lighthouse, that’s pretty amazing too!

And I haven’t even mentioned the spring wildflowers! My personal favourite, Templetonia retusa – more imaginatively known as ‘Cockies tongue’ – almost overshadows the orchids, wattles, eucalypts and pea flowers.

If any other selling points are needed, it’s not that far from another favourite place – Troubridge Island and Lighthouse!

SO … did I get it wrong, or are these delights enough to make the Top 10?

OK, left is another scenic coastline shot to help you decide!!

And below is the lighthouse shot I referred to above!

Later edit:  I’ve visited Innes National Park many times since these photos were taken and this post written!  If you’d like a more up to date perspective, then have a look at these more recent posts:

• The Jewel in the Toe
• 7 Wonderful Walks in Innes National Park
• Explore South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula in 7 Days (guest post on Rocky Travel)
• 7 Days on the Southern Yorke Peninsula

The post Favourite Place #5 – Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, SA appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.