Innes National Park Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/innes-national-park/ go-see-do guide for adventurous travellers Wed, 05 May 2021 11:46:16 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cropped-Site-Icon-1-1-32x32.jpg Innes National Park Archives - Australia by Red Nomad OZ https://www.redzaustralia.com/category/innes-national-park/ 32 32 7 Wonderful Walks in Innes National Park https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/7-wonderful-walks-in-innes-national-park/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2015/04/7-wonderful-walks-in-innes-national-park/#comments Thu, 02 Apr 2015 11:43:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/?p=3525 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Sand dunes and shipwrecks.  A wild and windswept heli-pad. Magnificent cliffs, an old wooden railway transport line and exotic lighthouses. Historic ruins and a sailor a long way from home.  None of these are visible from the entrance to Innes National Park. And you can’t see them from the ~30 km of road winding through the park. To discover the[...]

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West Cape Lighthouse and Heli-pad, Innes National Park, South Australia
West Cape Lighthouse and Heli-pad, Innes National Park, South Australia

Sand dunes and shipwrecks.  A wild and windswept heli-pad. Magnificent cliffs, an old wooden railway transport line and exotic lighthouses. Historic ruins and a sailor a long way from home.  None of these are visible from the entrance to Innes National Park.

And you can’t see them from the ~30 km of road winding through the park.

To discover the history, see the sights and uncover the mysteries you’ve got to go behind the scenes and take one or more of the 7 sensational walks in Innes National Park.

Kangaroo, Innes National Park
(One of MANY) Kangaroo, Innes National Park

Although the superb view from almost any vantage point along that road is SO distracting you’ll be tempted to keep driving from lookout to lookout, take the walks for an even better chance of scenic overload!

AND as well as the attractions above, there’s wildlife, spring wildflowers, history and some of South Australia’s most spectacular coastal scenery – including Public Loos so scenic some of them are in MY BOOK!

SO … take the trails teaser tour TODAY!

Rhinos Head, Innes National Park
Rhinos Head, Stenhouse Bay, Innes National Park

1 Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk (2 km circuit)

On a fine day the view over the Stenhouse Bay jetty takes some beating in the scenic stakes. That’s why it’s usually our first stopping off point after entering the park a few kilometres south-west of Marion Bay.

Coast from Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk
Coast from Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk

From the park entrance it’s only a short drive to the jetty – and the town that the Waratah Gypsum Company built in 1900, although there’s not much of it left.

Grave Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk
First Vietnamese person to visit Yorke Peninsula

It’s also the trailhead for the Lookout Walk – a 2 km circuit that shows off what IS left and the track passes rusting machinery; interpretive signs explaining the bay’s historic significance; and 9 lookouts showcasing the spectacular views to the islands in Investigator Strait and the Rhino’s Head (see above)!

Which has to be one of Australia’s most OBVIOUS place names!

But the most memorable thing for me on this walk isn’t the scenery, wildflowers or wildlife. It’s the grave of a sailor buried in this lonely outpost far from home.

Rest in peace, Dao Thanh.

2 Cape Spencer Lighthouse (600 m return)

Cape Spencer and Althorp Island Lighthouses, Innes National Park
Cape Spencer and Althorp Island Lighthouses, Innes National Park

This is the shortest of the walks in Innes National Park.

The track from the car park to the lighthouse on the Cape runs along a ridgetop with massive cliffs on one side and exposed slopes running down to the pounding seas below on the other. I didn’t need the signs warning walkers not to go too close to the edge – it’s a sheer drop off way Way WAY down to the water.

Cliffs at Cape Spencer, Innes National park
HIGH Cliffs at Cape Spencer, Innes National park

No photo is worth taking the fall!! Does that mean I’m not a REAL photographer??

Directly across the strait from the lighthouse are the Althorp Islands, site of several shipwrecks and another lighthouse – a stunning two-lighthouse view! And with a coastline THIS rugged in all directions, the lighthouse/shipwreck thing starts to make sense.

Inneston Salt Lake
Inneston Salt Lake, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

 

3 Inneston Historic Walk (2km circuit)

If you’ve already walked the previous two trails, the historic township of Inneston (you’ll NEVER guess the name of the bloke who founded it was William Innes!), provides a welcome break from the relentlessly staggering coastal scenery.

Although it’s got it’s own attractions …

Bakery Ruin, Inneston
Bakery Ruin, Inneston

Tragically, while the town that once supported the budding gypsum mining industry was at one stage big enough to support its own bakery, neither are operational today. But the walking track shows off the town’s highlights, including restored buildings, Inneston Lake, spectacular spring wildflowers – the freesias are particularly fabulous – and wildlife such as emus, malleefowl and kangaroos.

Emu and chicks at Innes National Park
Emu and chicks at Innes National Park

You’ve probably realised by now you won’t be able to complete all these walks in one day. So if you’re looking for a cool place to stay, try Inneston’s heritage accommodation – if you can live without TV or mobile access, that is!

4 Thomson-Pfitzner Plaster Trail (7.6 km)

Once upon a time, the walk from the trailhead at Inneston – an extension of the historic trail (above) – meant getting to Rhino’s Tavern at Stenhouse Bay 3.8 km away in time for lunch before returning along this old wooden railway line that once connected the two towns.

Sadly, the tavern has now closed so carry enough food, water and supplies for a 7.6 km return trek. But it’s an easy walk through the trees and along the embankment upon which the railway line was built, with fragments of the gypsum cargo lying among the leaf litter – and spring orchids – where they fell many years ago.

On the Thomas-Pfitzner Plaster Trail, Innes National Park
On the Thompson-Pfitzner Plaster Trail, Innes National Park

Not much of the railway track remains today, but there’s a sense of the past that lingers along the line where horses once drew heavy loads of gypsum from the mining sites to the Stenhouse Bay jetty.

Other than glimpses of the sea near Inneston and Stenhouse Bay, this walk is another opportunity to escape the superb coastal scenery – if you need to!!

5 West Cape Headland Hike (1 km circuit)

If you were still wondering about the lighthouse/shipwreck thing first encountered at Cape Spencer, West Cape will leave you in no doubt.

Islands in Pondalowie Bay, Innes National Park, South Australia
Islands in Pondalowie Bay, Innes National Park, South Australia

The stretch of (almost) deserted beach stretching out below the long, wooden stairway down to the sand many metres below is an impressive sight. But the view’s even better from the top of the Cape, where a trail to the lighthouse goes just a little closer to the cliffs than I’m comfortable with, especially when the wind is strong!

Hold on to your children – unless they happen to be particularly noisy, naughty or nasty – it’s sometimes hard to stay fully upright when the wind’s up. There probably won’t be many days when a helicopter could land on the heli-pad next to the unusual lighthouse atop this windswept spot (see first photo above), but it’s nice to know it’s sometimes possible.

West Cape Beach and Loo
Scenic Loo, West Cape, Innes National Park

But the sight (and site!) of one of Australia’s most scenic public loos, with beach views in one direction and the scenic splendour of Pondalowie Bay in the other make braving the wind worthwhile.

6 Royston Head (4km return)

If trails along the top of high cliffs with no barriers between you and the sea a LONG way below make you nervous, then the Royston Head walk isn’t likely to make you feel any better. But swallow that fear, if you can – this is one of the most spectacular spots in the park.

In my humble opinion.

Royston Head, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula SA
Royston Head, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula SA

The walk winds up from Dolphin Beach through the dunes before reaching the exposed cliff tops of the Head – an interesting range of habitats, vegetation and wildlife that you’ll promptly forget when faced with the awesome view at the end of the hike!

That’s why this is one of my favourite walks in Innes National Park!

7 Gym Beach (11 km return)

Although it’s part of Innes National Park, Gym Beach isn’t accessible via the main road through the park. The alternate route from Marion Bay gives access – but then there’s no direct road access to the rest of the park without returning to Marion Bay.

Dunes, Innes National Park
Dunes, Innes National Park

Luckily, the hike starting near Browns Beach along the back of the dunes is an introduction to the varied coastal vegetation habitats as well as providing access to Gym Beach. Although it’s a LONG way to go for a swim!

Browns Beach, Innes National Park
Browns Beach, Innes National Park

Strangely enough, the walk can be done without laying eyes on either beach – although doing that would deprive you of two of South Australia’s BEST beaches!

Walks in Innes National Park are suitable for most people – and if I can do them all, then so can you! Enjoy!!

Cape Spencer Lighthouse Walk, Innes National Park, South Australia
Cape Spencer Lighthouse Walk, Innes National Park, South Australia

FAST FACTS:

WHERE: Innes National Park is at the south-western tip of the Yorke Peninsula, and is around 300 km south-west of Adelaide

WHAT to do: Walking trails, Beaches, Surfing, Fishing, Wildflowers, Wildlife, Camping, Historic Ruins

Sleepy Lizard
Sleepy Lizard

WHEN: All year round

COST: Park entry fees ($10 per car/$8 concession as at April 2015) and Camping fees apply, and must be pre-booked and paid online HERE

STAY: The park has several camping areas. Heritage Accommodation is also available at Inneston. Nearby Marion Bay has a range of accommodation, including a caravan park.  Other Yorke Peninsula Towns also offer accommodation.

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The Jewel in the Toe – Innes National Park, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/11/the-jewel-in-the-toe-innes-national-park-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2013/11/the-jewel-in-the-toe-innes-national-park-south-australia/#comments Thu, 21 Nov 2013 02:07:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=19 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Visit Innes National Park on a fine day and if you don’t end up with a photo that looks close to the one above, you’re just not trying! But joining the ‘Entrance to Innes National Park’ photo club isn’t the only reason to visit this smallish 9400+ hectare National Park.  It’s around 300 km from Adelaide on the toe of[...]

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Entering Innes National Park, South Australia
Entering Innes National Park, South Australia

Visit Innes National Park on a fine day and if you don’t end up with a photo that looks close to the one above, you’re just not trying!

Engineers Cottage, Inneston
Engineers Cottage, Inneston, South Australia

But joining the ‘Entrance to Innes National Park’ photo club isn’t the only reason to visit this smallish 9400+ hectare National Park.  It’s around 300 km from Adelaide on the toe of the ‘ill shaped leg’ (take the link to see it on the map) that is South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula.

Although I’d been here several times over the last few years, we had never actually stayed there until now. We left the camper trailer at home and stayed in the restored Engineers cottage in historic Inneston for a few days, right inside the park with entry fees included in the tariff.

If only I could say that this meant getting up early for sunrise shots, but alas …

However, being on site made our exploration MUCH more leisurely!

So let me give you my updated insider’s TOP 7 things to do – a true traveller’s teaser taste of all that’s GREAT about this FAAAABULOUS spot!

1.  The Wildlife

Thanks to a close encounter at Inneston, I know EXACTLY what to do if attacked by an emu! Just raise your hands above your head, and walk backwards until you get to a place where you can run like hell!!

You might have to forget the photo …

Emu with chicks, Inneston SA
He’s NOT HAPPY … Inneston Emu and chicks

Getting a little too close to an emu with chicks during spring hatching season isn’t recommended. In a civilised gender role reversal rarely seen elsewhere in the animal kingdom, it’s the male who sits on the eggs and cares for the young – the female is long gone by then!

But hard core twitchers* come here for the rare Western Whipbird – the reason for the park’s proclamation in 1970, it’s virtually the whipbird’s southernmost limit and one of the few habitats preventing it from being a Western Australian endemic. It’s also a known nesting area for Malleefowl with regular sightings in and around Inneston.

Kangaroos at Inneston, South Australia
Say WHAT?  Kangaroos at Inneston, South Australia

And if you don’t see a kangaroo somewhere in the park, don’t bother buying a lottery ticket … you’re obviously the world’s most unlucky person!

2.  The Scenery

If magnificent (and nearly empty) beaches, rugged rocky cliffs, towering sand dunes, coastal vegetation, jewel like islands, lakes and wild coastlines leave you cold, then Innes National Park probably isn’t for you.

Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park
Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia

But while you’re gazing out over the Great Southern Ocean at a cliff top lookout, bear in mind that if not for the sea spray, waves and curvature of the earth, you’d be able to see clear to Antarctica!

3.  The History

The four clans of the Aboriginal Narungga nation maintain strong cultural links to the Yorke Peninsula area, and the historic campsites and shell middens found in the park.

Inneston, Innes National Park, South Australia
Inneston, Innes National Park, South Australia

Charted by Matthew Flinders over 200 years ago, the remains of civilisation from the area’s early 1900’s settlement are scattered throughout the park, including the not-quite-ghost-town of Inneston, unsurprisingly established by William Innes. In its heyday, Inneston’s Gypsum mining, with a port at nearby Stenhouse Bay supported a peak population of around 200.

Interpretive signage along the Investigator Strait Shipwreck trail tells tales of the treacherous rocks, reefs and unpredictable weather that sank many ships. Down on Ethel beach, the ever-diminishing remains of the Ethel, wrecked in 1904, show how dangerous these waters can be.

Ethel Wreck, Innes National Park, South Australia
Ethel Wreck, Innes National Park, South Australia

4.  The Lighthouses

And that’s where the lighthouses come in! There’s good reason why the lighthouses at Cape Spencer (see photo above) and West Cape – both accessible by short walking trails – are still operational, with Cape Spencer lighting up the night sky a short distance from our accommodation at Inneston.

Is that a kanga I see before me??  West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia
Is that a kanga I see before me??  West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia

But the unusual designs of all-metal West Cape and rectangular Cape Spencer lighthouses AND the amazing vistas from Cape Spencer over the cliffs and out to the Althorpe group of islands (where the Althorpe Island lighthouse overlooks 6 shipwrecks) and the panorama from West Cape across Pondalowie Bay (see photo below) make them worth re-visiting at any time of day!!

Which is the best?? It’s a near thing – but its scenic public toilet to die for (Yes! It’s in MY BOOK!) gives West Cape the edge!

5.  The Wildflowers

Cocky's Tongue Pop Art
Cocky’s Tongue Pop Art

It’s worth visiting the park in a good season just for the bright RED Cocky’s Tongue lining the roads. And the RED Correa.

But believe it or not, there are also a few NOT RED wildflowers in Spring (Sept-Nov down here!) and half the fun of a walk in the park is finding them.

Heavily perfumed and delicately coloured Freesias are everywhere – especially in what were once the settled areas,

their beauty a compelling argument against getting rid of non-natives!

RED Correa
RED Correa

If you’re lucky enough to visit in spring, be warned! Wandering the tracks around Inneston can put you in quite serious danger of wildflower overload!

6.  The Beaches

Just how many miles of empty, unspoiled beach stretching off into the middle distance can you take? While access to some of the beaches may take a little effort with steep and treacherous tracks, who wouldn’t want to try to make it down to Browns Beach?  Where yes, there ARE two other people …

Brown's Beach, Innes National Park, South Australia
Brown’s Beach, Innes National Park, South Australia

Or to explore the Ethel Wreck (see photo above)??

But I’ll leave it to you to decide if a bad weather day makes the West Cape beach more or less of an attraction!!

A wet day at West Cape, Innes National Park, South Australia
A wet day at West Cape, Innes National Park, South Australia

7.  The Walks

Exploring Innes National Park on foot is one of the best ways to experience everything.

Wander the 11 km round trip Gym Beach walk or the 4km return Royston Head hike for wildflowers, amazing coastal scenery and beaches. Do the 1 km loop West Cape Headland hike right past the lighthouse and that awesome view. Walk through Inneston and along the Thomson-Pfitzner Plaster trail for a taste of history, wildflowers and wildlife, and the short South Cape lighthouse walk for scenery.

Althorpe Islands from Stenhouse Bay Lookout
Althorpe Islands from Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk, Innes National Park

And do the Stenhouse Bay Lookout walk for ALL of the above.

Yes, it’s SO sounding like you’re going to need to spend more than a day here, right? And given my total lack of photo manipulation skills, this really IS what it looks like. So if it seems as if the jewel-like Innes National Park with its bountiful natural attractions is just a little too good to be true, then my work is done.

But I don’t think I could prove electronic photo theft of my first shot given the omnipresence of ‘Entrance to Innes National Park’ shots on the web!

Pondalowie Bay from West Cape Lighthouse
Pondalowie Bay from West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park

* Twitcher = Birdwatcher! Go figure!!

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The 3-Car, 2-Beach, One Fine Day! https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/12/the-3-car-2-beach-one-fine-day/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/12/the-3-car-2-beach-one-fine-day/#comments Thu, 08 Dec 2011 00:23:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=166 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Sometimes, not planning turns out best. And sometimes the planets align and fabulous weather, bizarre experiences, brilliant destination and perfect moments all come together on one fine day … Fine in every sense! And the sky!  The glorious sky!!  Yes, Innes National Park at the very southern end of South Australia’s York Peninsula was already one of my favourite places.[...]

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West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Sometimes, not planning turns out best. And sometimes the planets align and fabulous weather, bizarre experiences, brilliant destination and perfect moments all come together on one fine day …

Beach at West Cape
Beach at West Cape
Fine in every sense!

And the sky!  The glorious sky!!  Yes, Innes National Park at the very southern end of South Australia’s York Peninsula was already one of my favourite places.

But, on this fine day in December 2011, the air shimmering with the promise of summer, the breeze cool over the water, crazy patterned cloud painting the sky and new* Scenic Public Toilets on the verge of discovery, I wouldn’t have traded places with anyone! For ANYTHING!

Islands in Pondalowie Bay, Innes National Park, South Australia
Islands in Pondalowie Bay, Innes National Park, South Australia

The young surfies doing god knows what in the shelter shed overlooking Pondalowie made the West Cape Lighthouse circuit track the most attractive option. Whatever they were doing required the doof-doof-doof of music pounding from the open door of their car – parked as close as could be without actually hitting the barrier. Ah, sweet mystery of life …

Captain Kangaroo
Captain Kangaroo

But once heading for the lighthouse, the staggering view wiped all thoughts of sand, surf and various other ‘s’ words from our minds. Rock parrots grazed among the low vegetation, but Pilchard’s attempt at the perfect photo was thwarted by Captain Kangaroo!

Pondalowie Bay’s magnificent islands stretched out in front of us as we rounded the lighthouse and Helipad and the cliffs dropped away to the blue, blue sea meeting the sky in a dark band on the horizon. Who knew whether that meant bad weather coming? And who cared??!!

Down in the bay, the lighthouse we’d just visited was a small and distant speck on the headland. And who’d stay in the uninviting car park, ablaze with heat and bright light reflecting the road’s stark white gypsum?

Not us … but no one in the car closest to the track – towels over the windows shielding our view from god knows what inside – was admiring the view!

Pilchard, Pondalowie Bay and the West Cape Lighthouse!
Pilchard, Pondalowie Bay and the West Cape Lighthouse!

Alone at last, we reached the end of the line, and the perfect curve of Brown’s Beach far below the car park. A sign warned of the eroded track – another example of South Australia’s cunning plan to replace maintenance and repair with warning signs and reduced speed limits …

The road to Pondalowie
The road to Pondalowie

A car, unaccountably boxing us in, arrived as we set off down the steep track to the beach. Jesus may well be Lord (according to their windscreen sticker) but he didn’t stop them having a good old sticky-beak through the car windows when they thought we were otherwise occupied on the descent!

Browns Beach, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Browns Beach, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

However, with all our valuables in my backpack, and our ageing car closing in on 250,000 km, the lord was not providing for his middle-aged believers today!

Pilchard on the rocks ...
Pilchard on the rocks …

But I didn’t care! With water so clear I could photograph the starfish and sea urchins through it, the cool sea lapping at my feet, the sand now thankfully too hot for the snakes that’d left their tracks behind and the glorious beach stretching out in front of me, our one fine day drew to a close.

Almost Tropical!  But WAAAAAAY too far south ...
Almost Tropical!  But WAAAAAAY too far south …

A day like this deserves to be recorded. Because who knows when – if – the planets will again align to give us another?

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7 Days … on the Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/02/7-days-on-the-southern-yorke-peninsula-south-australia/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2011/02/7-days-on-the-southern-yorke-peninsula-south-australia/#comments Mon, 14 Feb 2011 02:39:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=242 NEW from RedzAustralia!

South Australia’s Southern Yorke Peninsula (SYP) can get pretty tedious – day after ho-hum day of blue skies, mile after punishing mile of spectacular coastal scenery, more and yet more (almost) deserted beaches. Seal and dolphin watching, fishing, museums, shipwrecks, snorkelling, surfing, wildflowers, markets and country shows. A well preserved, documented – AND fascinating history. And it all comes with arguably[...]

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Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Swimmers Beach, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

South Australia’s Southern Yorke Peninsula (SYP) can get pretty tedious – day after ho-hum day of blue skies, mile after punishing mile of spectacular coastal scenery, more and yet more (almost) deserted beaches. Seal and dolphin watching, fishing, museums, shipwrecks, snorkelling, surfing, wildflowers, markets and country shows. A well preserved, documented – AND fascinating history. And it all comes with arguably the highest concentrations of bakeries AND scenic public toilets (SPTs) in the country!

Southern Yorke Peninsula Coastline, South Australia
Southern Yorke Peninsula Coastline, South Australia

Yep, there’s only so much of that you can take.

So I’ve limited this to 7 days. 7 arduous days – NOT for the faint hearted! These pleasures can be exhausting – so unless your stamina is unusually robust, it must be fortified often with the region’s gastronomic pleasures …

SO … where to stay? While you can’t toss a salmon without hitting an SYP caravan park, for my money (and to mix my metaphors), the Coobowie Caravan Park is an unsung gem – and central to most activities. Besides, it’s a surreal pleasure to be assailed by County AND Western hits* when visiting the amenities in the otherwise quiet dead of night! My favourite? The chorus – ‘He drank tequila, and she talked dirty in Spanish’ – stays with me still!!!

Day 1 – Edithburgh (and maybe Yorketown) – Bakery AND SPT alert!

Coastal Vegetation at Sultana Point

Walk from Coobowie to Edithburgh if you’re up for a 5km magnificent-coastal-scenery hit – or take the car for a Bakery hit at nearby Yorketown, with vanilla slices so huge the staff give ‘how-to-eat’ instructions. These are wasted on Pilchard – his talent for turning one into something resembling a plate of fresh roadkill remains unparalleled. And me? I’m sure the fresh cream honey stick will figure prominently in my last meal … But I digress!!

If you walk, the path – part of the ‘Walk the Yorke’ hiking trail – winds through the clifftop golf course, past the tidal swimming pool (SPT alert #1) and jetty (SPT alert #2) before reaching Edithburgh itself where a range of refreshment options await.

Sunset at Wattle Point Wind Farm, Edithburgh, South Australia
Sunset at Wattle Point Wind Farm, Edithburgh, South Australia

Eat at the excellent Location Cafe, either of the two pubs, the Garage Diner or the General Store; Spot the teddy bears in the trees while strolling through the Native Flora park, bigger in area than the Adelaide Botanic Gardens; visit the terrific historical museum and Bakehouse craft shop; wander the streets for the op shop and craft/gift store; swim or snorkel at the pool, fish from the jetty or play a round of golf.

Don’t want to leave Coobowie?  No problem!  There’s another pub and Blooms and Bakes for refreshments!

Southern Yorke Peninsula Cliffs
Southern Yorke Peninsula Cliffs

For the masochistic, or those who haven’t yet tired of the magnificent coastal scenery, follow the path from Edithburgh another 3km to Sultana Point (SPT alert #3) – the heel on the foot of the leg!!  But be warned … you’ll then have to walk all the way back!

Day 2 – Coastal Drive to Port Moorowie (SPT Alert)

If not for the dirt roads, courtesy of the current State Government’s focus on urban votes at the expense of rural SA, I’d claim the coastal drive from Edithburgh to Port Moorowie as one of Australia’s best.

Troubridge Point Lighthouse, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Troubridge Point Lighthouse, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

For my money, the dirt roads actually add to the charm – as the world-class magnificent coastal scenery and deserted beaches are all the more unexpected from the many lookout points.

Past the Wattle Point Wind Farm, the goat track road hugs the coast so closely that the sea spray will wet you in rough weather! When they’re not breeding across the strait at Kangaroo Island – seals frolic below the Troubridge Hill Lighthouse, constructed of purpose-made clay bricks. And on a clear day? The view is stupendous!

From the access stairway to Swimmers Beach – hard to believe it was once covered in stones – look for the telltale schools of salmon masquerading as giant clumps of seaweed. Looks good enough for a swim, doesn’t it? That’s what I thought until the day we spotted a shark cruising quite close to shore heading towards the salmon …

And the day Pilchard and I weathered a storm that nearly blew the car off the cliff? Well, let’s just say flat tyres come at the most inopportune moments!

School of Salmon Offshore, Southern Yorke Peninsula
School of Salmon Offshore, Southern Yorke Peninsula

If you’re there when the mullet run is on, you probably won’t get any further. And the beach certainly won’t be deserted! If you’ve got the bait the mullet are after that day, you’ll leave the other fisher-people in your wake!

Once you tire of the views, the beaches, the clear blue sea and sky, retreat to the Ballywire Farm Licensed Café – the menu specialises in home grown ingredients.

And after lunch? WELL … dare I suggest the Port Moorowie clifftop walk? It’s a 3km (one way) corker, stretching from west of the town at Point Gilbert, along the clifftop and through to McEacherns beach. Whoops, yes, more magnificent coastal scenery, another mostly deserted beach! Just return the way you came if you can’t cope …

Mozzie Flat Campground, Southern Yorke Peninsula
Mozzie Flat Campground, Southern Yorke Peninsula

If you CAN cope, the nearby Mozzie Flat campground has yet more of what you’d expect. Knock yourself out! But be warned – ‘mozzie’ is an Australian euphemism for ‘mosquito’!

Day 3 – Minlaton & the Other Side (Bakery Alert)

At its narrowest point, the SYP is a mere 33km across, so while a trip to the other side necessarily leaves the coast, the absence of magnificent coastal scenery/deserted beach combo is momentary.

Red Devil, Minlaton
Red Devil, Minlaton

Unless, of course, you break your journey at Minlaton, where you can experience TWO world class attractions!

First, there’s the ‘Red Devil’ – believed to be the only Bristol M.1C Military Monoplane from a World War 1 limited edition of 1918 left in the world, flown by ace pilot and local hero Captain Harry Butler.

Minlaton Chocolaterie Chocolates
Minlaton Chocolaterie Chocolates

Then, just up the road in the main street, there’s the Minlaton Chocolaterie.  I dare you to go in and NOT buy anything!  I just don’t think that’s possible …

It’s also home to a fine bakery and the excellent ‘Harvest Corner’ Visitor Information Centre, with the Brentwood cemetery just down the road.

 

But … given the total magnificent coastal scenery overload of the last 2 days, those experiencing withdrawal symptoms should continue to Port Rickaby for a fix. And while you’re there, enhance those views from the top of the sand dune – if my (then) 81 year old mother-in-law can climb it, then so can you!!

Port Rickaby Sand Dunes, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Port Rickaby Sand Dunes, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Day 4 – Innes National Park (Scenic Public Toilet alert)

Sound familiar? Regular readers will recall the amazing wonders of this OZ Top Spot that I’ve written about several times – but click HERE if you’ve missed them!

Day 5 – Corny Point and Western Beaches (Scenic Public Toilet alert)

West Cape Beach, Innes National Park, South Australia
Daly Head, Southern Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Yeah, continue up the western side of the ‘leg’ for more of the same old, same old. Another day, another series of wild, windswept beaches with magnificent coastal scenery, great surfing and fishing. What can I say? Yes, it’s exhausting documenting such tedium… but I’m willing to sacrifice myself so others don’t have to suffer!!

Besides, you don’t see emus on the beach and galahs nesting in the cliffs too many other places, do you?!

Lookout!
Lookout!

Don’t miss western hot spot Point Turton, with its jetty, coastal walk and pub with the best lunch view!  Then a little further up, do yourself a favour and stop at Hardwicke Bay – the colour of the water is AMAZING!

Hardwicke Bay, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Hardwicke Bay, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Day 6 – Stansbury (Scenic Public Toilet alert)

Sadly, the Stansbury Seaside Markets are – well, naturally – right on the beach. So even though you’re shopping, you just can’t escape the magnificent coastal scenery/deserted beach combo. Sorry.

Once you’ve experienced the markets, take a walk!  The Stansbury Visitor Information Centre will let you know where to go!

Day 7 – Troubridge Island

Troubridge Island Transport
Troubridge Island Transport

Readers may also recall the fabulous Troubridge Island, 6km offshore from Edithburgh, from a previous post! There’s a minimum 2 night stay so sneak in another day, especially if you have unfulfilled fantasies involving lighthouses AND being serenaded by thousands of penguins …

Epilogue:

Watch that erosion, Red!
Watch that erosion, Red!

As you head back to the real world after this little taste of paradise, treat yourself to another of life’s great pleasures and drop in to the Ardrossan Bakery. You won’t regret it!!

Then, there’s Port Clinton – worth a stay if you want to experience the upper York Peninsula.

I’ve given up trying to write a definitive post on the SYP – there’s just too much to see and do!!  SO … be prepared for even more posts in the future, because I’ll definitely be back!

Epilogue #2:

Since these photos and this post, I’ve visited the Yorke Peninsula many more times!  For more information and updated posts, try these:

*Don’t be disappointed if this no longer happens – it’s a few years since we’ve stayed at the Coobowie Caravan Park.

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Favourite Place #5 – Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, SA https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/09/favourite-place-5-innes-national-park-yorke-peninsula-sa/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/09/favourite-place-5-innes-national-park-yorke-peninsula-sa/#comments Wed, 29 Sep 2010 03:28:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=287 NEW from RedzAustralia!

It’s a mystery to me why Innes National Park (INP) isn’t on any Top 10 Australian National Parks lists. At the south-western tip of Yorke Peninsula’s ‘toe’ (you’ll see what I mean on the map) its wild and remote beauty is unique. BUT … perhaps the unparalleled coastal scenery, historic buildings, walking trails, shipwreck sites, deserted beaches, fishing, lighthouses, wildlife[...]

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

Stenhouse Bay Jetty, Innes National Park, South Australia
Stenhouse Bay Jetty, Innes National Park, South Australia

It’s a mystery to me why Innes National Park (INP) isn’t on any Top 10 Australian National Parks lists. At the south-western tip of Yorke Peninsula’s ‘toe’ (you’ll see what I mean on the map) its wild and remote beauty is unique.

Old Gypsum Mine, Innes National Park, South Australia
Old Gypsum Mine, Innes National Park, South Australia

BUT … perhaps the unparalleled coastal scenery, historic buildings, walking trails, shipwreck sites, deserted beaches, fishing, lighthouses, wildlife and stunning wildflowers in season in the park just don’t stack up against the nations’ finest. Maybe I’ve got it wrong.

So is this place REALLY awesome? Or is it just me?? Take my tour of the highlights, and decide for yourself!

Above is  the old gypsum mine loading facility at the Stenhouse Bay jetty. And here’s the jetty itself. Can you imagine a better spot for a day’s fishing? There’s a walk to the lookout at the top of the hill if you want an even more panoramic vista.

Entrance to Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Entrance to Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

And here’s the view towards Chinaman’s Hat Island and Cable Bay camp ground as you head into the park towards the Cape Spencer lighthouse. The short walk to the lighthouse gives magnificent views on either side of the ridge top, and ahead to the islands.

Inneston Lake, Innes National Park, South Australia
Inneston Lake, Innes National Park, South Australia

But don’t just take my word for it … the picture at the end of the post shows it all clearly!

The Inneston ruins and lake are where the gypsum mine operated in the early 1900’s. The Thomson-Pfitzner walking track follows the old wooden railway line used to transport gypsum to Stenhouse bay and the jetty. It’s 4km each way – but luckily you can have lunch at the Rhino’s Head tavern at the half way mark!

Historic buildings at Inneston, Innes National Park
Historic buildings at Inneston, Innes National Park

Here’s Inneston, and the INP birdwatcher’s trifecta – Emu, Mallee Fowl and Western Whipbird – MAY be spotted on the walking track. Although Western Whipbird is the reason for INP’s proclamation, it remains elusive. BUT … we’ve sighted Australian Shelduck with young on the lake, and Southern Scrub Robin on the track. It’s not all ruins – people live here, and some of the cottages are available for rent if you’re looking for a place to stay.

Below is the Ethel wreck, one of several in the area. Depending on tidal, storm and/or sand activity you may see more or less than this! Get right down to the beach for a closer look.

Ethel Wreck, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
Ethel Wreck, Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

The recently renovated rest area (how’s that for alliteration?!?!) at West Cape Lighthouse has arguably one of the most spectacular coastal views in INP, even more so from the short walk to the lighthouse. But be warned!

The ocean at Browns Beach, Innes National Park
The ocean at Browns Beach, Innes National Park

The winds can be fierce – luckily there’s a sign in case you hadn’t noticed …

The north western section of the park includes beaches to rival the tropics. Don’t believe me?

Here’s Brown’s Beach (left) – popular for fishing, surfing and hiking, this area of the park has several camp grounds and some serious walking tracks.

Try the 11 km return trip through to Gym Beach at the northernmost limit of the park.

And if you can get down to the Cape Spencer Beach below the lighthouse, that’s pretty amazing too!

Beach from Lighthouse, South Cape, Innes National Park
Beach from Lighthouse, Cape Spencer, Innes National Park

And I haven’t even mentioned the spring wildflowers! My personal favourite, Templetonia retusa – more imaginatively known as ‘Cockies tongue’ – almost overshadows the orchids, wattles, eucalypts and pea flowers.

Cliffs at Cape Spencer, Innes National Park
Cliffs at Cape Spencer, Innes National Park

If any other selling points are needed, it’s not that far from another favourite place – Troubridge Island and Lighthouse!

SO … did I get it wrong, or are these delights enough to make the Top 10?

OK, left is another scenic coastline shot to help you decide!!

And below is the lighthouse shot I referred to above!

Later edit:  I’ve visited Innes National Park many times since these photos were taken and this post written!  If you’d like a more up to date perspective, then have a look at these more recent posts:

Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia
Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia

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Australia’s Scenic Public Toilets #6 – West Cape Lighthouse, SA https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/09/australias-scenic-public-toilets-6-west-cape-lighthouse-sa/ https://www.redzaustralia.com/2010/09/australias-scenic-public-toilets-6-west-cape-lighthouse-sa/#comments Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:03:00 +0000 http://www.redzaustralia.com/wp/?p=288 NEW from RedzAustralia!

Innes National Park on South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula has (arguably!) some of the most magnificent coastal scenery in the country. Any amenities in such a setting are duty bound to be scenic, and these eco-friendly composting toilets are no exception! Artfully placed among the dunes below the West Cape Lighthouse, the conveniences are somewhat protected from the strong winds that signs in[...]

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NEW from RedzAustralia!

Innes National Park on South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula has (arguably!) some of the most magnificent coastal scenery in the country.

Any amenities in such a setting are duty bound to be scenic, and these eco-friendly composting toilets are no exception!

Artfully placed among the dunes below the West Cape Lighthouse, the conveniences are somewhat protected from the strong winds that signs in the area warn about.

Signs in the toilets themselves warn of feral bees – several drier than average years mean they tend to swarm where there is water.  BUT … happily the amenities remained bee-free during our visit!

And the view?  See for yourself!!  Across the road, the coastline rolls away to the southeast – wild and deserted. 

A short climb to the lighthouse above, and a 360 degree panorama unfolds!  But sadly, my limited technology means if you want THAT view, you’ll have to head down south and see it for yourself!
Stay amazed!!

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