The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early.

As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek.

Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good.

A couple of hours later, our lonesome loser neighbour finally dropped into a drunken stupor putting an end to both the impromptu musical experiment and our misery.

Two bleary-eyed hours drive west got us to the Northern Territory/Western Australia border (the flat tyre didn’t help) where we scored an extra 90 minutes, courtesy of the time difference between the NT and Western Australia. Making it about 9:00 am, WA time!

Half an hour later, the different world – make that universe – of our camp-site at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park on the shores of Lily Creek Lagoon – with lonesome losers noticeably absent – made an excellent base from which to explore the attractions of the East Kimberley.

And because we’d got there so early in the morning, we could get started on our long, long list of things to do in Kununurra and surrounds straight away.

Yes, camping in Kununurra is the best way to see it all – and there’s a LOT to see and do for independent travellers who like natural attractions.  We were planning a four-day stay – but ended up being there for 10!

SO … where to start?  Just use this list of my favourite things to do in Kununurra and start exploring!

I hope you enjoy them (and Kununurra!) as much as we did

1 Kelly’s Knob and the Ivanhoe Café

It’s VERY convenient that the best view of Kelly’s Knob in Kununurra is from the Ivanhoe Café! Or is that just MY opinion??  If you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself spending a LOT of time at the cafe, especially during the heat of the day when exploring grinds to a halt.

That’s why the best time to visit Kununurra is during the Australian winter and Top End Dry Season, from about April to October.  But be warned … that’s also the busiest time!

After a session at the cafe, work off the spectacularly fabulous icecreams, smoothies and other goodies chock-a-block with awesome Kununurra produce by climbing to the vantage point at the top of Kelly’s Knob to get your bearings AND enjoy the spectacular view over the town and mountain ranges beyond. The landscape’s surprisingly green in this part of the East Kimberley, courtesy of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.

Pssst! The real view is even better than what you can see in the photo above!

Why the excellent Anzac Hill Lookout we stumbled upon just out of town heading west, and giving an entirely different perspective, doesn’t appear in any of the tourist information I’ll never know … track it down for yourself and see which one you prefer!

2 Ord River Adventureland

The East Kimberley’s natural attractions can so spectacular they overshadow its hazards. And that could be fatal in Kununurra – because while the Ord Irrigation Scheme has turned this harsh landscape into a food bowl thanks to the engineering marvel of the Ord River Dam, it didn’t get rid of the crocodiles!

There are plenty of reminders of the dangers along the river banks – but don’t let that stop you fishing for barramundi (does anyone bother with any other types of fish?); having a picnic; or even taking an upstream cruise for 57 kilometres to the Lake Argyle Dam Wall.

No boat? No problem! Local cruise operators will be happy to see you on board!

But no matter how hot it gets, don’t even THINK about going swimming!

3 Lake Argyle – the Inland Sea

The arid Carr Boyd Ranges near Kununurra probably aren’t where you’d imagine an inland sea over 1000 km² to be.

If that’s what you thought, you’d be right. Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, didn’t naturally occur. It was formed when the Ord River Dam was slapped across the river’s narrowest point in an incredible feat of engineering and construction that drowned valleys, pastoral leases and a whole mountain range!

But the staggering scenery surrounding Lake Argyle is SO worth the ~70 km one way drive south-east from Kununurra back towards the WA/NT border we did it twice.  The first time was just to explore; the second for the must-do early morning cruise.

It’s also worth doing for the wildlife – over a third of Australia’s bird species can be found here at various times of the year.

Oh! And there’s also a proliferation of scenic public loos!

It’s said that the damming of the river means none of the large and deadly saltwater crocodiles live above the dam wall, although there have been sightings. But the absence of predators means there are a LOT more of the less dangerous freshwater crocodiles.

SO … if you’re crocodile-averse, don’t go in the water AND definitely don’t sign up for the annual Lake Argyle 10 or 20 km swimming races, held annually on the first Saturday in May!

4 Hunting the Wild Boab Trees

Australia’s only species of Boab tree grows almost exclusively – but plentifully – in the Kimberley. Even if you haven’t seen a Boab tree for real, its distinctive shape and silhouette appear in all the galleries – on paintings, prints, cards, carvings, photographs and jewellery. I’m still having withdrawal symptoms over the earrings that got away – how I managed to leave those brightly coloured glass squares with tiny Boab tree silhouettes in the shop remains a mystery to this day.

And now it’s too late … I can’t find them ANYWHERE on line

Luckily, wild Boab trees are easy to find around Kununurra.

But if you haven’t got time for hunting, they’re also found in captivity – at the Kununurra Celebrity Tree Park at the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon. And although I couldn’t find a celebrity tree dedicated to Red Nomad OZ amongst those for notables such as John Farnham and Princess Anne, I’m sure it’s just a matter of time!

Isn’t it?!?!  Please say yes!

5 Lily Creek Lagoon and the Sleeping Buddha

Like its giant friend Lake Argyle, Lily Creek Lagoon on the outskirts of Kununurra isn’t natural. But it’s an awesome backdrop to a rock formation that looks (supposedly) like a Sleeping Buddha from the Celebrity Tree Park; and (even more supposedly) an Elephant’s head from the Zebra Rock Gallery’s vantage point just down the road.

It’s also a wildlife hotspot.

Of course it’s a helluva lot easier to go wildlife spotting on Lily Creek Lagoon when you’re camping right on its banks at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park campground like we were. By day, watch a variety of bird-life on and around the lagoon, including Comb-crested Jacana, also called the ‘Jesus bird’, hopping around on the lily pads; and the Crimson Finches hopping around on the banks – and at our campsite.

You might even get to take part in a real life rescue!  Like we did when a bird misjudged the length of a lily pad and slid into the water.  Did I mention the lagoon is full of fresh-water crocodiles?

Sunset brings the Sleeping Buddha to life – at least as much as is possible for a reclining figure – and the Lagoon dramatically reflects the sky’s RED glow.

But the night belongs to those crocodiles … take a torch and watch the RED glow glinting from their eyes if you dare!

6 Mirima National Park

Wondering when the selfie-taking joggers completely oblivious to the 3 metre snake sunning itself at their feet would either notice it or step on it was like watching a car crash.

Was it so wrong to have my camera ready?

Luckily (or unluckily, depending on whether you were them or me), neither happened, and the joggers jogged off into the sunrise to post what could have been a REALLY exciting update (read about that adventure HERE).

I waited for the snake to move so I could admire the view over Mirima National park from the top of the range vantage point on the Lookout Walk (no prizes for guessing why it’s called that!), one of four shortish walks showcasing the park’s attractions.

I can’t guarantee the excitement of a sunrise snake stand-off in the sandstone at Mirima, on the outskirts of the main Kununurra township. But you WILL see dramatic sandstone domes and valleys – smaller, but not unlike those of more well known Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles). So if you don’t have time to trek there, or the bucks for a helicopter flight, Mirima National Park is a cheaper, closer, and more charming alternative.

The top of the range view also overlooks Hidden Valley – and the Hidden Valley Tourist Park who I mention here because they were nice enough to put RedzAustralia at the very top of their TOP 10 Grey Nomad blogs (even thought I’m a RED Nomad)!

7 Ngamoowalem Conservation Park

En route to discover the Kununurra waterfalls, by the time we’d managed two of the conservation park’s four sites we’d already experienced a grumpy grey-nomad who should have stayed in bed; and a flamboyant four-wheel-driver developing some experimental techniques in what can only loosely be called ‘driving’ (read about that adventure HERE).

Who knows what other weird experiences we might have had if only our car had had enough clearance to visit the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park’s 3^rd and 4^th localities?

The spectacular setting amid the Livistonia Range means the springs and falls that make up the park run hot during the wet season. There wasn’t much water happening during our dry season visit – but that meant we could explore the rocks up close and admire the cluster of butterflies flitting through the undergrowth.

And wonder why Black Rock Falls was called Black Rock Falls!

It’s a shame we didn’t get to see Middle Spring and Molly Spring, but no matter.

The other visitors to Valentine Spring and Black Rock Falls had provided quite enough excitement for one day.

Besides – don’t they say you should always leave something for next time?

8 Killer Kununurra Producers!

There’s not a lot of point visiting the Ord River Irrigation zone without actually sampling the produce, right?

So we gave it our best shot.

A daily dose of something with mango in it – smoothies, cheesecakes, ice-cream, we weren’t fussy – from somewhere local – we weren’t fussy about that, either! We didn’t even care if they sold other products!

And so we did the rounds of the Zebra Rock Gallery Café; Lovells Gallery, Hoochery Distillery, the Sandalwood Factory and a number of Open Door outlets that sold Kununurra and Ord River Irrigation Scheme fresh produce!

Hard to believe, I know, but it’s not always all about cake

9 Kununurra Agricultural Show

They say you always remember your first time. And the Kununurra Agricultural Show was where I lost it.

My Cane Toad Race virginity, that is! (Read that awesome story HERE!)

The Cane Toad Race fund-raiser for Kununurra Wildlife Rescue topped the bill of weird and wonderful events celebrating rural life – with audience participation encouraged.

If you’ve never seen the Melon Olympics, where participants skate in watermelon shoes to throw honeydews into 44 gallon drums; a lawnmower race; the Kimberley Cowboy Challenge – a farmer’s daily life event multi-tasking race; and the Haystacking Challenge where a hapless volunteer perches atop an ever-growing stack of hay bales just before it topples then this is the place to be.

All accompanied by even more of that killer Kununurra produce!! Frozen chocolate-covered banana, anyone?

Experience all the fabulous fun for yourself at the Kununurra Agricultural Show on Friday 10^th & Saturday 11^th July, 2020!!  It’s the most fun you’ll have for $AUD20 (the 2020 cost of an adult admission).

10  Wyndham Rivers and Tides

It’s just over 100 km from Kununurra to Wyndham on the sealed main road, but the back route past Parry’s Lagoon takes you through stunning East Kimberley scenery (and more of those Boab Trees).  Stop at the lagoon for a wildlife extravaganza then continue to the small town of Wyndham with some of the highest tides in Australia, and the fantastic Five Rivers Lookout overlooking an incredible landscape.  Read more about things to do in Wyndham HERE.

11 Crocodile Spotting

Finding a crocodile in the East Kimberley is what’s generally known as a ‘sure thing’.  So take care when you find freshwater (the small ones) and/or saltwater crocodiles (the BIG scary ones) in Lake Argyle, both above and below the dam wall; in the Ord river; in any/all of Wyndham’s five rivers; in Parry’s Lagoon and right next to your campsite in Lily Lagoon.   Want more places to find crocodiles in Australia’s Top End?  Go HERE!

12 Sunset – Kimberley Style!

When you’ve enjoyed yourself to the max in the East Kimberley, max out a little bit more on a Kununurra Kimberley sunset. Sunset from pretty much anywhere will do, but our campsite by the lake gets my vote!

With nothing but the gentle hum of mosquitoes, plopping of crocodiles and chatter (and sometimes snoring!) of the Southern Grey Nomad to disturb you!

Staying in Kununurra (where 26º C is a COLD day) for any length of time puts the careless visitor in serious danger of having a food baby.  So it was just as well for us we left, albeit reluctantly, after 10 days!

The good news is that once you’ve seen the sights of Kununurra, there’s the rest of the awesome Kimberley Region to explore (Read my 7 Kimberley Random Adventures  HERE)!

Having trouble getting there?  Check out the best flights and get your Kununurra adventure off the ground NOW!

Want MORE?

• All about Kununurra
• Kimberley Region Travel Guide
• Red’s Kimberley Adventures
• MORE Kununurra Photos on Flickr
• MORE Kimberley Photos on Flickr

The post COOL Things to Do in Kununurra, Western Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

How to get from Darwin to Broome!

Whether you got to Darwin by plane, train (the Ghan), or my 7 day Road-trip from Adelaide, once you’ve seen the sights – like my TOP TEN things to do in Darwin – you’ll eventually have to leave.

But if you’ve got another 7 days (or more!) to kill, the alternative to returning the way you came is to take a road trip. Hire a car if you didn’t drive, and drive across the Top End through the Kimberley from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway!

But be warned! Even though the Darwin to Broome road trip CAN be done in a week, you must carefully pick and choose the sights you want to see or you’ll run out of time. That’s why my 7 day road trip itinerary has optional extras so you can add extra time and extra attractions!

So choose what you’d REALLY like to do from the itinerary and enjoy!

Day 1: Darwin to Victoria River Roadhouse

Distance: 510 km

Driving Time: 6-7 hours. Leave as early as possible – there’s a lot to see and do when you reach the Victoria River Roadhouse!

Route & Scenery: Head south from Darwin along the Stuart Highway, passing through tropical bushland and savannah and over low rocky ranges. At Katherine, leave the tropics behind and enter the RED Outback, heading south-west along the Victoria Highway. Near the Roadhouse, the road passes through Judburra/Gregory National Park and Stokes Range.

Points of Interest:

• This itinerary assumes you travelled to Darwin via Katherine and have already seen those attractions. For attractions between Darwin and Katherine, see Days 6 and 7 of my Adelaide to Darwin road trip itinerary.
• Outback scenery and pastoral properties, low ranges and Buntine Highway (alternative route to Halls Creek) turn off
• From the Victoria River Roadhouse, climb up to the Escarpment Lookout, hike the 1.7 km Joe Creek Loop Walk. Take a look at Australia’s WILDEST river (watch for crocodiles!), watch spectacular sunsets over the Victoria River Escarpment and have a meal at the roadhouse.

Options:

• Take an extra day to explore attractions en route to Katherine. Stay overnight in Katherine on Day 1 and travel to Victoria River Roadhouse on Day 2.
• Alternatively, stay at Katherine, then combine Days 2 and 3, seeing the Victoria River Roadhouse sights en route to Timber Creek

Read MORE: Things to do at Victoria River Roadhouse

Day 2: Victoria River Roadhouse to Timber Creek

Distance: 91 km (yes, you read that right!)

Driving Time: 1 hour (yes, you read that right!)

Route & Scenery: Head west from Victoria River Roadhouse, climb the Victoria River Escarpment and pass through the Stokes Range. Spectacular outback scenery complete with Boab trees all the way!

Points of Interest:

• Today’s short trip means there’s time to see any attractions around Victoria River you didn’t have time for yesterday.
• In Timber Creek, book a sunset Victoria River Cruise to see more of Timber Creek, discover Australia’s wildest river, see more crocodiles than you’ve probably ever seen before. AND enjoy drinks and snacks while watching the sunset.

Options:

• Save Timber Creek for another visit and continue to Keep River National Park campground (150 km), Lake Argyle (190 km) or Kununurra (225 km)
• Stay an extra night and explore Timber Creek. There’s the historic museum, Escarpment Lookout, crocodile feeding in the creek behind the caravan parks and more of Gregory National Park.

Read MORE: Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s Wildest River

SEE MORE:  Victoria River Region Photos on Flickr

Day 3: Timber Creek to Kununurra

Distance: 225 km

Driving Time: 3 hours (including extra for a WA/NT Border vehicle check – don’t carry fruit, vegetables, plants or flowers). Gain bonus extra time at the border by turning clocks back to WA time!

Route & Scenery: Drive west along the Victoria Highway passing through spectacular ranges and land formations. After the border checkpoint, approx 150 km from Timber Creek, continue to Kununurra.

Points of Interest:

• Keep River National Park, sometimes referred to as the Mini Bungle-Bungles, is just 3 km from the WA border.
• Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, is 34 km off the highway just across the border.

Options:

• Stay overnight at the Keep River National Park campground for amazing scenery and the 7 km Jarnem Loop Trail
• Stay an extra night at Lake Argyle for a sunset or morning cruise and a dip in the infinity pool
• Extend your stay in Kununurra and use it as a base to explore the region thoroughly (including Lake Argyle and Keep River National Park)
• Stay an extra night at Wyndham to see the amazing Five Rivers Lookout at sunset, and a number of other attractions

Read MORE:

• Top TEN Things to do in Kununurra;
• 5 Reasons why Wyndham is a TOP Aussie Town;
• Marlgu Billabong

SEE MORE:  Kununurra Photos on Flickr

Day 4: Kununurra to Halls Creek

Distance: 360 km

Driving Time: 4 ½ – 5 hours

Route & Scenery: 46 km west of Kununurra, turn east onto the Great Northern Highway. Spectacular scenery with multi-coloured rock formations through the Carr-Boyd and O’Connell Ranges. Outback scenery with red rock and spinifex closer to Halls Creek.

Points of Interest:

• Doon Doon Roadhouse
• Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse, Indigenous Arts Centre and Bungle-Bungle Scenic Flights
• Punululu National Park (Bungle-Bungles)
• At Halls Creek, visit the China Wall quartz formation, Caroline Pool and Old Halls Creek.

Options:

• Stay an extra night at Warmun or one of the Bungle-Bungles campgrounds and explore Purnululu National Park
• Stay an extra night at Halls Creek and visit Wolfe Creek Crater National Park (260 km round trip) on the Tanami Road

Day 5: Halls Creek to Fitzroy Crossing

Distance: 290 km

Driving Time: 3 ½ – 4 hours

Route & Scenery: Travel south-west from Halls Creek passing through oddly shaped rocky mountains, cliffs and canyons then lightly wooded pastoral country.

Points of Interest:

• When in flood, the Fitzroy River has the largest water volume of any river in Australia.  In the world only the Amazon is larger!  Take a look – even if it’s NOT in flood!
• Take a cruise through Geikie Gorge, a Devonian reef system about 20 km from Fitzroy Crossing.

Options:

• Stay an extra day and explore Geikie Gorge via several walks, or take a tour to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge.

Read MORE: The Incredible ‘Icebergs’ of Geikie Gorge

Day 6: Fitzroy Crossing to Derby

Distance: 260 km

Driving Time: 3 – 3 ½ hours

Route & Scenery: Head west along the Great Northern Highway and head north at the junction with the Broome-Derby road. It’s then only 40 km to Derby on King Sound.

Points of Interest:

• Watch the ebb and flow of the highest tides in Australia from the Derby Jetty. It’s 12 metres above the low tide line.
• Other Derby attractions include the Jandamarra Heritage Trail, old prison, Boab Prison Tree, Frosty’s Pool, the Long Trough and the Joonjoo Botanic Walk.

Options:

Stay an extra night in Derby and experience the Gibb River Road on the Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour.  Alternatively, visit the Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Waterfall

Read MORE: The Highest Tide in OZ!

Day 7: Derby to Broome

Distance: 220 km

Driving Time: 2 ½ -3 hours

Route & Scenery: Follow the Great Northern Highway south-west to Broome.

Points of Interest:

• Willare Bridge Roadhouse
• Roebuck Plains Roadhouse

Read MORE about Broome’s attractions:

• 5 Reasons to Visit Broome in July
• Good Times at Gantheaume Point
• Sun Pictures and the Scenic Public Loo!
• Broome Bird Observatory

SEE MORE:  Broome Photos on Flickr

Broome’s many attractions probably mean you’ll want to stay for a LOT longer than just one night! And why not? You deserve a break after an epic road trip like this!

And anyway, you may as well kick back and enjoy yourself while you work out where to go next!

Want even MORE?

• MORE about the Kimberley
• MORE Red Nomad OZ Roadtrips
• MORE Kimberley Photos on Flickr

PS  For the record, it took me 28 nights to do the Darwin to Broome Road Trip.  I spent 15 more nights exploring Broome and surrounds!

And I STILL didn’t see everything!

So yes, it CAN be done in 7 days – but if you’ve got the time, you’ll see a LOT more!

The post 7 Days from Darwin to Broome via the Great Northern Highway appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

With the world’s biggest rock AND largest monolith*, Australia’s the land of the ultimate ROCK – or at least the coolest Australian rock formations! But where’s a keen rockhound to go once they’ve seen Mt Augustus (biggest rock) and Uluru (biggest monolith)??

Check out a few more Australian Rock Stars – otherwise known as distinctive and unusual Australian rock formations – with this handy guide to 12 HOTTEST Rock spots from all around OZ!

1 Bald Rock via Tenterfield, NSW

This 750m x 500m monolith around 25 north of Tenterfield in New South Wales’ Granite Belt isn’t Australia’s largest monolith. But it’s Australia’s largest GRANITE monolith!!

Thrill seekers and the time-poor can take the short, steep exposed route straight up the face to the summit – 200 metres above the surrounding plains. Those wanting a more relaxing experience (read: more cowardly) can take the longer, more scenic route through the bushland up the back. Either way, the exposed summit has spectacular views over two states – and a spectacular drop down to the bottom!

MORE about Bald Rock National Park

2 Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island, SA

The remarkable shapes of these rocks sculptured by wind, water and weather at the southern end of Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island off the South Australian coast are a real clue to what their ultra-imaginative name actually means

Australia’s 3^rd largest island – an intriguing blend of superb natural attractions, wildlife, gourmet treats and beaches – is South Australia’s answer to the tropics.

But whatever their reasons for visiting Kangaroo Island, sooner or later, most visitors head for the all-natural Remarkable Rocks – where they’ll take a photo remarkably like the one above!

MORE about Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

3 Balancing Rock & Caves – Chillagoe, QLD

I’ve still got the cool Serpentine (I think) egg I bought from a Chillagoe shop on my only visit 20+ years ago, but it’s Balancing Rock and the Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park tour I remember.

Outside, the dramatic jagged edges of the reef housing the caves tower above the classic outback landscape.

It’s just as dramatic inside – a separate, subterranean world of limestone in intriguing formations, weathered caverns and towering columns.

Back outside and the self-guided walks to the historic smelter sites, Aboriginal rock art are interesting, but it’s the amazing Balancing Rock that’ll get you snapping!

MORE about Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park

4 Tessellated Pavement, Tasmania

I’m such a sucker for names that when I heard about an attraction in a place called Pirates Bay near the township of Eaglehawk Neck on the Tasman Peninsula, it didn’t matter what it was. I just HAD to go see Tasmania’s Tessellated Pavement – one of the best known examples*** of this complex geological phenomenon involving rock fractures, polygonal blocks, erosion and sea salts. If you’re not a geologist, this is probably enough information. If you ARE a geologist, then you’ll already know WAY more than this!

At low tide, the tessellations (like mosaic tiles) make an interesting patchwork on the flat rock platform just above the water level. But make sure your cool pavement shot isn’t ruined by slipping on the wet rocks!

MORE about the Tessellated Pavement

5 Mirima National Park, Kununurra

Tiny Mirima National Park on the outskirts of Kimberley town Kununurra, with its wildlife, walks and wheelchair access, is a chance to experience the MUCH bigger West OZ attraction Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles) in miniature.

Formed by the same process as its larger counterpart, Mirima’s sedimentary rock layers glow in the early morning and late evening light. And with the right angle of perspective and the right level of concentration, a more skilled photograper than I could ALMOST convince viewers that the shots were taken elsewhere!

But I had no time for photographic trickery – I was more interested in avoiding the 3 metre snake!

MORE about Mirima National Park

6 Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

Snapping a killer sunset or sunrise in what is arguably Australia’s most intriguing rock pile without other people in your shot can be a challenge!

But the complicated geological theory involving weathered layers of sandstone and granite that’s the standard scientific explanation for the almost perfectly spherical shapes doesn’t quite do justice to the magical setting and extraordinary light.

So forget the ‘facts’, settle back, and drink in the magic of Karlu Karlu with the story of the Rainbow Serpent. According to this Indigenous legend, those spherical shapes are the Rainbow Serpent’s fossilized eggs!

Now … isn’t that a FAR more satisfying explanation for this geological phenomenon?

MORE about Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu)

7 Island Rock, via Kalbarri, WA

According to the tourist information brochure, Island Rock, one of the more spectacular of Kalbarri National Park’s Coastal Cliff attractions, ‘can be enjoyed from the safety of the lookout enclosures’!

But it doesn’t explain how safely walk the coastal trail atop the sandstone cliffs so high above the pounding sea below it’s almost impossible to fit them into a photo! Perhaps that’s why many tourists opt for a visit to the park’s best known rock formation, Natures Window!!

If you can tear your eyes away from Island Rock and the amazing sculpted cliff face, so treacherous to ships and bumblefooted tourists, you may be lucky enough to see whales far out to sea. But if the sheer drop gives you vertigo, turn and face inland – and you’ll see one of Australia’s most scenic loos**!

MORE about Kalbarri National Park

8 Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

It’s an easy walk from the car park to the dramatic Sawn Rocks – Australia’s best example of the columnar jointing phenomenon more commonly called organ piping located a few kilometres from Narrabri in the shadow of Mt Kaputar National Park. Best viewed in the morning when the sun (if it’s out!) strikes the rock face, bringing out the amazing colours and shadows.

Standing underneath the soaring rock face can be awe-inspiring – until you realise that those enormous Greek temple ruinous rock columns all around can only have come from one place.

Yep, directly above!

MORE about Sawn Rocks, via Narrabri, NSW

9 Hollow Mountain, Victoria

You can’t swing a brush-tailed possum in Victoria’s Grampians National Park without hitting some kind of rock. So much so that walking through the park could give you a serious case of rock overload that only a fix from the awesome Halls Gap Bakery could cure

But I’m betting even the most jaded rockhound couldn’t fail to be impressed by Hollow Mountain, in the Northern Grampians. Exploring the wind-sculpted caves, caverns and crags can actually be more fun than reaching the summit!

And I’m not just saying that because I’m exercise-averse! No, REALLY!!

MORE about Hollow Mountain and Northern Grampians

10 Balls Pyramid – via Lord Howe Island, NSW

For pure rock star awesomeness, there’s not much to beat the 552m high spire of the world’s largest volcanic rock stack, out in the middle of the ocean and one of the only points of the mostly submerged continent of Zealandia still above sea level.

It’s an achievement to even get there. A 700+ km flight from Sydney to Lord Howe Island in a small plane that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not be able to land. Then a 23 km boat journey that, depending on wind and weather conditions, may or may not actually depart as scheduled.

Once you’re on the boat, it’s easy. Unless you suffer from seasickness, in which case the hardest part of the trip is NOW!

MORE about Balls Pyramid, via Lord Howe Island

11 Bunda Cliffs, South Australia

Is it possible to have TOO much limestone??

If you’re not sure, head down south and drive the Nullarbor Plain skirting the Great Australian Bight. There’s nothing much between the road on the southern edge of Australia and Antarctica – except the majestic Bunda cliffs, ranging from 60 – 120 metres high and stretching for ~100 km.

That makes them the longest unbroken line of sea cliffs in the WORLD!

If that’s not quite enough limestone for you, then factor in the 270,000 km² of the Nullarbor Plain itself – World’s largest limestone karst formation!

MORE about the Bunda Cliffs and Nullarbor Plain

12 Mount Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland

Mount Moffatt, 220 km north of Mitchell, part of the Carnarvon National Park and containing Queensland’s highest plateau (the Consuelo Tableland) is worth the long drive – and the flat tyre we got the instant we drove into the park many years ago!

Its remoteness made it the ideal hideout for the bushrangers, including the violent Kenniff brothers and notorious cattle duffer Harry Redford (sometimes known as Captain Starlight), who operated in the area. And the local Bidjara people, who refused to be ousted from their land, left a legacy of rock imagery throughout the park.

But it’s the sandstone formations we came to see – an awesome array of arches, ‘chimneys’ and monoliths scattered decoratively around the park. There’s no doubt about it – these rocks ROCK!

MORE about Mt Moffatt, Carnarvon National Park

That’s just a sample – and I bet I’ve missed YOUR favourite HOT Australian Rock Formations!  Tell me below!!

Want even MORE?

• My Aussie Alphabet so far: Aussie ABC A-Q

* According to www.answers.com HERE

** Yes, it’s in my book HERE

*** According to Wikipedia HERE

The post Aussie ABC: R is for Rocks appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

By Northern Hemisphere standards, winter in many areas of Australia isn’t particularly cold. But that doesn’t stop a mass exodus from the ‘cold’ south during the Aussie winter (officially June/July/August), to the north where it’s actually hot!

But it’s not just the average daily maximum of around 30 °C that makes the Kimberley region stretching across the north of Western Australia attractive in winter.

There’s also the spectacular scenery. Unique land formations and oddities. An intriguing indigenous and colonial history. And a chance to experience the remote outback. It’s crocodile country – and wild Australia at its best!

But there’s a LOT of it. So where do you start?

With this sampler of 7 Random Kimberley Adventures, right here on RedzAustralia, of course!

1 Lake Argyle Morning Cruise

“Freakin’ HUGE” is the best technical term for Australia’s largest artificial lake formed when the Ord River was dammed. At nearly 11 million megalitres (18 times bigger than Sydney Harbour) of water spread over 1000 km², Lake Argyle is recognised as one of the world’s great engineering feats.

But the staggering Kimberley scenery was too distracting for statistics on our early morning cruise as we sped over the tranquil surface of this inland sea, for kilometre after punishing kilometre until the horizon was a world of water interrupted only by the islands we passed. Actually, they’re mountain tops from the ranges submerged by the waters of the lake.

But the lake’s 35,000 crocodiles are by far the most impressive mega-statistics in this larger-than-life landscape. And although they’re reportedly the less dangerous freshwater crocs, they breed unabated as natural predators are no longer a part of this artificial environment. BUT! Over the years, a few small saltwater crocodiles have been found. I guess 1.5 metres is small when you’re a saltie …

Given the relatively small sector of the lake we travelled, it’s hardly surprising that of the lake’s estimated 35,000 crocodiles – ie one to every 314 megalitres – we only saw two.

And while I could find no reports of whether or not their presence distracts swimmers in Lake Argyle’s annual 10 and 20 km swimming races, I KNOW they’ll never get the chance to distract me! Not when there’s a knockout infinity pool to swim in way above the crocs’ stamping ground!

MORE about Lake Argyle and Lake Argyle Cruises

2 Willie Creek Helicopter Flight

In retrospect, taking a helicopter flight above a crocodile infested creek probably wasn’t the best choice of tour for an Aviophobic. But as the chopper swung out above Willie Creek Pearl Farm and over the work of art along the coastline created as the almost-highest tides in the Southern Hemisphere shifted sandbanks against the greens and blues of the water, I forgot my fears. Maybe snapping about 300 photos was a successful distraction as well.

As was the thought of buying a souvenir from the pearl farm shop on our return. If we made it.

I didn’t want to be rude to the enthusiastic young pilot, but I didn’t care that we were flying over the exact spot where Miranda Kerr once modelled something or other. Couldn’t he see I wasn’t a Miranda-wannabee, even if her ex and I shared a star sign? Besides, the chances of the sandbanks being exactly as they were when Miranda languished upon them were fairly remote – with tonnes of sand and metres of water swirling about twice a day, finding the ‘same’ sandbank two days in a row had about the same probability as Miranda and I being mistaken for twins.

‘Is that big crocodile still down there on the sandbank?’ he asked as we circled back across the creek towards the Pearl Farm, as my white knuckles turned numb with the strain of keeping the helicopter in the air*.

It wasn’t. Sadly. Because that meant when the helicopter plunged into the creek, the croc was already there waiting for us. But I knew that at least in one thing I was WAAAAAY ahead of Miranda. And as I’d provide him with several more meals than Miranda would, I knew who he’d choose first. Who says supermodels have all the fun?

Strangely enough, despite my death wish, we landed without misadventure. And the $9 black seed pearl ring I selected from the childrens gift section suited me just fine.

What a shame it didn’t come in RED!

MORE about Willie Creek Helicopter Tours

3 Marlgu Billabong Croc-Spotting

The 15 km trek south from Wyndham to Marlgu Billabong passes through a dry-season Kimberley landscape with boab tree silhouettes against a low-lying mountain range against a bright blue sky – clear but for the dust haze – and a red, red road winding through grassy plains.

Yes, this classic Kimberley scenery is dry. VERY dry.

So you really can’t miss the unexpectedly long green and blue scar of Marlgu Billabong that slashes through the golden grass and dusty rocks of this arid landscape, sucking all the bird and animal life into its vortex!. It’s the go-to place for all sorts of wildlife viewing. Think bird watching. Crocodile hunting. And the most exciting activity of them all – people observation!

Although that tends to take a back seat when the crocodiles are smiling!

MORE about Marlgu Billabong

4 Gibb River Road Dynamic Duo

If your constitution, holiday time-frame or rig isn’t up for several days of the 600+ km of rough, rugged, rocky tyre-shredding ‘road’ that is Australia’s most iconic road trip, don’t panic. There’s still an opportunity to see more corrugations, bull dust and 4WD fanatics than you ever dreamed of on a one-day ~360 km round trip tour along the notorious road to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek with a random selection of other passengers driven by a fearless Israeli on a RED 4WD bus.

It even doubles as a school bus in its spare time!

Before the Gibb River Road became a Boys Own Adventureland, Indigenous warrior and activist Tjandamarra conducted a campaign for the rights of his people against colonial settlers. With staggering scenery, crocodiles and other wildlife, and a strong cultural history, this tour from Derby guarantees the thrills of the Gibb River Road without damaging your own rig. Win-win, right?

But make no mistake. The road’s so rough I should’ve invested in a sports bra!

MORE about the Gibb River Road and Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Day Tour

5 Australia’s Highest Tides

I’m a sucker for a World exclusive! But an Aussie one will do the trick – especially when it’s served up with a killer sunset so magnificent you forget that Australia’s highest tidal range is also served up with some killer hazards!

At low tide, signs on the Derby jetty warn of the 12 metre drop to the oozing mud below. And at high tide, it’s only a short drop into what have magically become crocodile infested waters. In between, the treacherous racing currents formed by the monster tides racing up and down King Sound form their own hazards.

But as the sun sinks into oblivion over the Sound, and the council worker with the unenviable task of clearing the fisherfolk, tourists and photographers from the jetty before dark starts his rounds, the hazards seem a long, long way away!

MORE about Australia’s Highest Tides

6 Geikie Gorge

I’ve never seen a real, live iceberg anywhere ever, but I certainly didn’t expect to see them in the middle of the Aussie Outback!

Just as well, because I didn’t!!

But the fantastically water-worn white surfaces of the ancient limestone reef as our boat drifted down Geikie Gorge are as close as I’ve ever been – so far! It’s also one of Australia’s largest rivers with a catchment area of 90,000 km² – and a flow rate of 30,000 m³ per second when it’s in flood, up to 26 metres above the old crossing. (Note to self: stay away during the wet season)

That’s WAY more than enough water to carve the limestone into the bizarre shapes and patterns towering high above us as the boat chugged its way up the gorge, although it’s hard to imagine the impact of 26 metres of water flowing above us.

I don’t know where the freshwater crocodiles go when the river’s in full flood, but they don’t go anywhere when it’s not. Seeing a crocodile – or several – is almost a sure thing on both the cruise AND the gorge walks that follow the river.

So I’m betting it’s the only place in the world that serves up crocodiles with its ‘icebergs’!

MORE about Geikie Gorge

7 Kununurra Campsite

There ARE some advantages to having a low-tech rig. Despite the crowds of grey nomads seeking caravan park sites, we scored a spacious, shaded campsite in a prime lakefront position at the Kununurra Lakeside Resort because, unlike many of the bigger rigs, we could live without power and mains pressure water.

It was worth it.

During the heat of the day we rested in the shade and watched the bird life on Lily Creek Lagoon, a few metres from our camper trailer. In the evening, we watched the killer Kimberley sunsets sinking behind the lake. And at night, the red glow from the eyes of the crocodiles in the lagoon reflected from the beams of our torch.

What’s NOT to love?

A few days into our stay, we noticed a commotion a few metres out from shore. A bird had mistaken the lily pads for firm ground while taking a bath and had fallen in. Now its feathers were soaking wet and it was unable to haul itself onto the relative safety of the lily pad.

Would YOU enter a croc-infested lagoon to save a bird from almost certain death by drowning? If you’re thinking ‘NO WAY’, then I’m with you. But luckily the freshies weren’t hungry that day because Pilchard and two nearby campers waded in to the shallows with a fishing rod and rescued the bird – and all survived unscathed without losing any limbs!

Perhaps they were just unappetising??

Want MORE?

• These random adventures (mostly) have crocodiles! For some of my (mostly) croc-free Kimberley adventures, try (in no particular order) these:
  • Black Rock Falls
  • Gantheaume Point
  • Sun Pictures
  • Broome Bird Observatory
  • Mirima National Park
  • Kununurra Cane Toad Racing
  • Five Rivers Lookout
  • The Grotto

• Visit the official Kimberley website HERE for help planning YOUR Kimberley adventure
• Check out more of my Kimberley photos on Flickr

* It’s a little known fact that those afflicted with fear of flying can keep a flying object (like a plane or helicopter) airborne through a combination of sheer willpower AND gripping the armrests tightly enough to stop them vibrating. Try it sometime!

The post 7 Random Kimberley Adventures appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The lyrics of Aussie folk ballad Waltzing Matilda* are responsible for most people’s entire knowledge of billabongs**.  So visiting a real one – like Marlgu Billabong – raises certain expectations.

Visiting a real Billabong

That’s why I found the unexpected lack of swagmen, coolibah trees, jolly jumbucks and troopers at the Marlgu Billabong, oasis in the Kimberley west of Kununurra, a staggering disappointment.

But we didn’t have to wait long to find out why!

The two-sentence teaser from the Glove Box Guide to the East Kimberley didn’t fully capture the essence of Marlgu Billabong or prepare us for its many attractions.

A boardwalk and shaded bird hide have been constructed over a billabong within the Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. A birdwatcher’s paradise.

Yes, it was technically accurate.  But no, it didn’t describe the reality.

Birds at Marlgu Billabong

The description would – and did – capture a twitcher’s attention. “Marlgu” is an Aboriginal word meaning “wild bird”, after all. But it wasn’t going to reel in the crowds that Marlgu Billabong, an unexpected jewel-like Outback oasis, deserves.

And the roads in weren’t doing it any favours either.

But then, it’s probably just as well. Massive crowds at Marlgu Billabong would almost certainly affect the quality of an experience dependent on listening, observing and patience. Even though bigger crowds would significantly enhance my own secret indulgence – people watching!

And watching the visitors who think Marlgu Billabong is an amusement park with performing animals just waiting for their pix to be uploaded onto a random strangers FaceBook page are funniest of all. Because the creatures who frequent this remote and sometimes inaccessible spot are wild, unpredictable and don’t seem to have the tourist experience at the top of their agenda!

A quiet observer is usually rewarded, and although it’s possible to come here and NOT see anything, that didn’t happen to us!

Despite the crowds!

Where is it?

Marlgu Billabong is on the alternative back route (read ‘rough 4WD track’) from Kununurra to Wyndham.  The Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve of which the billabong is a part, is a RAMSAR*** wetland of international significance as it’s on the shorebird migration route.

Although shorebirds are the last thing you’d expect to see after driving through the magnificently dry and arid East Kimberley landscape en route to the Billabong.

The parched dry season landscape doesn’t look as if it’s EVER been wet, let alone wet enough to support a large and thriving permanent waterhole.

Crocodiles!

But it isn’t just used by the 60+ bird species we observed on our two visits (totalling 3-4 hours).  The birds didn’t seem worried by the ever-present – and quite large – crocodiles that delighted the random selection of tourists who actually saw them.

Maybe because the big crocs rarely bother with such small prey.  The energy burned by catching them is far greater than the small amount replaced by eating them!

They’re after larger prey. Like swagmen and jumbucks.

And maybe even tourists!

Killer photographs aside, witnessing direct interaction between the crocodiles and the bird life wouldn’t have been pleasant. Thankfully, despite the aggression imbalance, the scene remained peaceful and serene.

Our caravan park neighbour also seemed happy enough not to be involved in a direct human/croc interaction, albeit for different reasons. Upon hearing he was to travel northern Australia in a campervan, his Swiss friends were apparently convinced he’d fall victim to a crocodile attack.

‘So I CAN’T be taken by a crocodile, you see,’ he explained. ‘I’d never live it down!’

What to expect at the waterhole

A random selection of vehicles jolted down the rough, rocky track to the waterhole from the old Telegraph Station on Telegraph Hill overlooking the billabong. I was pretty sure they were breaching the hire care agreement.

They were only a brief distraction from the billabong’s main attractions.  These started with a pair of Brolga in the carpark, a massive selection of ducks in the shallow waters surrounding the main pool, an astonishing array of birdlife on the billabong itself, and – of course – the crocodiles!

No amenities block and the thought of a stray crocodile policing the surrounding trees ensure most visitors move on after a short time. Whether or not it’s a deliberate strategy to reduce human impact, tragically it means the billabong won’t be featuring in my Australian Scenic Public Toilet series.

This also turns the Waltzing Matilda subject matter – a swagman boiling his billy while camped beside the Billabong with a freshly killed sheep ready to roast – into potential Waterhole Massacre.

But with all the crocodile, tourist and other wildlife action, who cares?

* Refer to lyrics from Waltzing Matilda, arguably the most popular Aussie song of all time

** Billabong = Oxbow lake

The post Marlgu Billabong: Australia’s Wild West! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Bloated from a surfeit of mango smoothies from several Ord River irrigation scheme produce outlets and cafés during a mini-heatwave, we finally left Kununurra for the day and hit the Parry Creek Road eatery-free zone.

Going cold turkey was the only way to break the smoothie stranglehold, whether or not our abstinence caused the producers financial hardship.

While the significant cash spent on a scenic flight or boat tour as recommended by the Kununurra 7day tourist guide would be well worth it, we’d found the cheapskate self-drive tour of this part of the East Kimberley.

Which, as we found out, came with its own special entertainment.

Victoria Springs was easy to find as the road ran through its pleasant waterholes, so camera at the ready, I headed for the rocky bar above the waterhole to see what lay beyond. With a flourish, a grey nomad vehicle pulled up next to us. She alighted from the passenger seat and strode purposefully towards me. He stayed in the car.

‘What’s on the other side?’ she demanded, invading my personal space.

‘No idea,’ I replied and moved away, trying to shake her off. But that was clearly the wrong answer.

‘Well, climb over and tell me if it’s worth it,’ she snapped.

I checked the front of my shirt. Was it possible that I’d slidden into a nightmarish parallel universe where I was a tour guide?

BUT no.  NO ‘Amazing Australian Adventures’ tour guide badge adorned my lapel. That meant a) my quest to fail to become a tour guide was on track and, more importantly, b) this exacting oldster was just a rude cow. What a relief …

‘Why don’t you just get off your lazy butt and see for yourself?’ I DIDN’T say, opting instead for a more socially acceptable snub as I climbed the rocks to get away from her. ‘There’s another waterhole up here, but only you can judge whether or not it’s worth it,’ I flung back at her, moving further away.

The suspense was too great for her so she followed me up the rocks.

Sadly though, the view was apparently NOT worth it and resisting the urge to perform my first strangulation, I left her muttering to herself (and probably me) about how much better places X, Y and Z were …

Perhaps it was full moon.

By comparison, the short trek from the carpark to Black Rock Falls was uneventful.

Other than having to dive off the track to make way for the 4WD reversing erratically around the corner!

Our sense of adventure was clearly defective. It just hadn’t occurred to us to DRIVE down the narrow, rocky walking trail.

Then again, as we’d only spent about a third of what the lethal weapon ploughing its way backwards down the track towards us must have cost, we didn’t feel the same obligation to prove our 4WD credentials.

Possibly embarrassed about the shiny newness of his off-road vehicle, the driver reversed past us over a couple of small trees, rocks spinning off the wheels and undergrowth beating a tattoo on the underside of the car.

At that rate it wouldn’t stay so new-looking for long!

We continued down the newly-widened track and rounded the corner to find the falls only a few metres away through a thicket of scrub that even a 4WD driven possibly by a former bulldozer driver wasn’t able to penetrate.

Unlikely as it may seem, it’s possible there are those who would NOT immediately visualise black rocks and waterfalls upon hearing the words ‘Black Rock Falls’.

Such people therefore did NOT name Black Rock Falls as it’s a fairly unimaginative description of the actual falls, although not of the surrounding red cliffs or the blue sky above.

Or the magnificent reflections enhanced by the ‘magic’ setting on my camera!

As I manoeuvred my way around the rocks at the base of the falls, a small group of camera-toting grey nomads arrived. The designated photographer directed the others into position and started snapping.

‘I can’t fit the whole falls in the picture,’ she said after stepping back as far as possible. The other group members couldn’t help her. She turned to me, foolishly believing that just because I had a camera in my hand, I actually knew what to do with it.

And so it was that I unexpectedly found myself giving my very first photography ‘lesson’ as I showed her how to vertically stitch her photo. Scary, isn’t it?!

Does this mean I’m one step closer to being a – gulp – tour guide?

There was only one course of action possible to take under those circumstances.

So we broke the drought (of a few hours) and accompanied by sighs of relief from local producers, returned to Kununurra for yet another mango smoothie.

And to watch another magnificent sunset from our campsite, and the Kimberley full moon rise!

Want MORE?

• More about the falls
• Kununurra, Western Australia
• The Kimberley
• More of my Kimberley Adventures

The post Good Day at Black Rock Falls! Kununurra, Western Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

Crocodiles are a weird combination of Aussie ‘Big Thing’ and perilous prehistoric predator. Maybe our fascination with crocodiles in Australia is what makes this my most viewed post of all time*.

Or maybe it’s because of the awesome photos and superlative writing … read on, and decide for yourself

But before you do, PLEASE NOTE this WARNING:

Crocodiles are VERY dangerous and can be found almost anywhere in the Top End – not just in the places I mention below, and certainly NOT just where there are warning sgns.  Large crocodiles have been found a LONG way from the sea, and in many smaller rivers and streams. SO … you MUST be crocodile aware WHEREVER you go – don’t assume it’s safe just because there’s no sign, or no one has warned you.  Assume they are EVERYWHERE in the Top End – even if you can’t see them.

Of course, the World’s Biggest Crocodile replica in Normanton, Queensland isn’t a ‘Big Thing’ ie several times larger than the real deal. It’s actually a life-size replica of the biggest crocodile ever ‘taken’ (read:  ‘shot’) by croc hunter turned croc supporter Krystina Pawloski in 1957.Now known as ‘Krys’, the 8.63 metre long (28′ 4″) monster croc is bigger than JAWS, and it’s the biggest known specimen in the world.

The golden age blood sport of hunting crocodiles in Australia ended when crocodiles became protected in the early 1970’s. But crocodile hunting still takes place downunder – as long as your weapon of choice is a camera!

Although that won’t make any difference to the cunning saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus – or ‘Saltie’) who can wait for days to ensnare its prey, and once its victim is in the ‘death roll’, there’s little chance of escape.

And just to make things more confusing, it doesn’t always hang out in salt water, either!

While less aggressive, Australia’s only other crocodile species, the Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni – or ‘Freshie’) has been known to attack, although not fatally.

But hey! Who wants to be the first?!

So where’s the best places to hunt for those elusive ‘live’ Crocodiles in Australia photos? Try my 7 Aussie Top End Crocodile Hot Spots for ALMOST guaranteed sightings!!

1. Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham,Western Australia:

But what’s that lurking beneath its benign surface?

The video at the top of the post shows why it’s not a good idea to stray from the boardwalk.

But it’s an even worse idea to venture onto the banks of this worrisome wetland when this little beauty is sunning himself!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the billabong banks on the far side regularly – crocs can appear without warning!

2. Daintree River, Daintree, Far North Queensland

A known crocodile hotspot, crocodile hunter wannabees can choose an assisted croc sighting via any number of river cruises. Daintree River Wild Watch was our choice for its birdwatching credentials, but we also got to see a saltwater crocodile close up whilst on the cruise.

Our first unassisted sighting came after the cruise as we drove up the road and spotted a large saltie sunning himself on a sandbank. He wasn’t there when we passed that same sandbank on our cruise about 30 minutes before!

The Daintree River doesn’t discriminate between salties and freshies – they’re both here in abundance!

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many Daintree River crocodile cruises can’t be wrong! Sightings are virtually guaranteed on a river cruise, and are not uncommon elsewhere.

3. Adelaide River via Darwin, Northern Territory:

The jury’s out on whether a sighting of a Performing Crocodile (ie a croc jumping for its supper) actually counts as crocodile hunting.

It’s the saurian equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel BUT if you can’t see them any other way, then knock yourself out!!

Choose one of the many available ‘Jumping Croc’ cruises – and hope like hell the boat doesn’t tip over as all the tourists rush to the same side whenever a crocodile appears …

Croc Hunter Tip:

This doesn’t really count as ‘hunting’ – but you WILL see crocodiles!!

4. Lake Argyle, via Kununurra, Western Australia:

The spectacular and otherworldly landscape of Australia’s largest lake will keep budding photographers busy for hours. One of the most magnificent spots in the country, the watery landscape is so panoramic, the wildlife takes second place.

Below the dam wall, these cold-blooded (in more ways than one) freshwater crocodiles recover from the cool night temperatures by taking in some sun. And while the morning cruise isn’t specifically about crocodile hunting, there are plenty around the banks and in the water.

Which could make the annual 10- and 20 km swimming races in the lake rather interesting …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Check the far bank below the dam wall. And take that 2 hour cruise – even if you don’t see a crocodile, it’s worth it just for the scenery!!

For more entertainment than is good for you, observe the anglers trying to land a big barramundi at this crocodile infested tidal river crossing into Arnhem Land. It’s also fun watching vehicles crossing the causeway as the tide comes in.

And it’s not called the East Alligator River for nothing!

Watching someone actually being taken by a crocodile would give me nightmares for a long, long time.

So watching a tinnie** full of drunken fisherman, one precariously perched on the nose of the craft as it drifted ever closer to a large crocodile they hadn’t seen, completely oblivious to the warning shouts from observers on the river bank, was a mesmerizing moment I hope never to experience again.

Luckily for them, the croc slid into the water and disappeared – they never even saw it.

As the tide came in, more crocodiles appeared downstream – not that the anglers knee-deep in water seemed to care …

But if you want your croc viewings with a bit less drama, try a Kakadu Yellow Water Cruise!!

Croc Hunter Tip:

Crocodiles abound in Kakadu National Park. See them at Cahill’s Crossing or on a cruise – but don’t make out like crocodile bait!

6. Windjana Gorge, via Gibb River Road, Western Australia:

 

No, those aren’t logs in the water … Windjana Gorge, WA

Frustrated crocodile hunters who’ve dipped out*** on crocs at other hot spots will not be disappointed here, unless they’re on a lifelong losing streak. If that’s the case (and even if it isn’t), think twice about heading for Windjana unless you’re keen on experiencing clouds of red dust, brain-hammering corrugated roads, tyre-shredding rocks and other generally adverse driving conditions en route to this remote spot.

Once there, if you can tear your eyes away from the gob-smackingly awesome scenery, you’ll be reaching for the crocodile repellent – yes, there really are that many!

All freshies, of course!! But happily, that makes getting a tad closer for those souvenir photos just that little bit easier!

Back down the road in Derby, crocs are regularly seen around the mangroves, although I have no photographic evidence of the large crocodile we spotted swimming in King Sound near the jetty …

Croc Hunter Tip:

Take the track into the gorge and keep your eyes on the water and sandbanks. Some would go so far as to dub this a ‘sure thing’ sighting spot!

7. Timber Creek, Northern Territory:

In the creek behind the Circle F Caravan Park campground, there’s a daily feeding session attracting any or all of the 12 freshwater crocodiles living in the creek.

They’re not always interested, but the enticement of a free snack costing virtually no energy is generally too much of a temptation to resist!

Careful observers may notice crocodiles resting on the banks of the creek – while they’re *only* freshies, my tip for the day is to let sleeping crocs lie.

But the nearby Victoria River’s self-nomination as Australia’s last great wild river may well be true, if the number of crocodile sightings is anything to go by.

The best way to see them is in a croc-proof purpose built river cruiser with a context-setting tour of Timber Creek at one end and sunset drinks and snacks on a float in the middle of the river at the other!

A Victoria River Cruise delivers on multiple crocodile sightings as well, with local Neville Fogarty identifying the ‘local’ crocs by name and reputation!

As we passed the white croc, old ‘Broken-jaw’ and the 5+ metre long Lord Lizard who disappeared without a trace into the water beneath the cruiser, Neville told us the cattle station we were passing lost 200+ cattle to crocodiles each year.

Somehow, I don’t think they’d mind a change in diet if anyone was foolish enough to stray  too close to the water …

Croc Hunter Tip:

So many sightings of both Saltwater and Freshwater crocodiles, you won’t know where to look first. But be warned – these ones are BIG!!

Disclaimer: Wild crocodiles are unpredictable, so of course I can’t guarantee you’ll see crocodiles in Australia where I have! But stay ‘croc-alert’ and you may see them where you’re least expecting it.

Like the time we watched in horrified disbelief as two crocodiles fought over a dead cow floating downstream past our campsite on the Northern Territory’s Mary River – but that’s another story!!

Want MORE?

 

• World’s Biggest Crocodile
• Australian Saltwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus)
• Australian Freshwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus johnsoni)
• Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River!

* OK, since you asked nicely, the 2nd most viewed post of all time is 7 Days between Adelaide and Darwin

** tinnie = small aluminium fishing boat  There’s no accounting for taste!

***  ‘Dipped Out’ = Aussie expression meaning failed, or not done, or didn’t happen

The post 7 Crocodile Hot Spots in Australia’s Top End appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

The pairing of Australians and Cane Toads works well. Almost as well the pairing of pavlova with pepperoni!  Although, come to think of it, while the Cane toad is an introduced species, so are its colonial counterparts … but I digress!

77 years after ‘experts’ deliberately introduced the Cane Toad (Bufo Marinus) into the wild, this alien animal has infested nearly every habitat in the country. From a gene pool of just 102 toads in first release, numbers are estimated at above 200 million. It has no natural predators.

So what do you do?

Panic? Call in the National Guard?? Stop watching the B-Grade Horror movie???

NO! Because the pairing of Australins and Cane Toad RACING actually DOES work!!

Downunder here in OZ, the toxic toad has become an Australian ‘cultural’ icon. And along with the ‘unique’ (yes, that’s a euphemism for ‘tasteless’) novelty gift items and a bizarre, cult-status documentary about the sad story of their arrival, they’re an obvious choice for a day at the races!

Because the thrilling unpredictability of racing the arguably unintelligent, ungainly and UGLY Cane Toad is at least as logical as racing, say, horses. Or dogs. Or even camels! And for race organiser and caller ‘Fats Thommo’, of ‘Thommo’s Toad Races’, it’s a whole new industry!!

A chance chain of coincidence and we had ring-side seats for Thommo’s virtuoso performance as Cane Toad race organiser AND caller at the July 2012 Kununurra Agricultural Show. Where, ashamed to call myself an Australian without ever having attended this most prestigious of Australian sporting events, I lost my Cane Toad Race virginity!

I’m sure the high gained from bufotenin, the chemical classified as a Class 1 drug secreted by the poisonous pest, is at least partly offset by the revulsion one would feel from ingesting it via toad-licking.

That probably means instances of bufotenin addiction are so rare, they may soon appear in TV shows featuring hospitals or emergency rooms. And I’m sure bufotenin ingestion played no part in Thommo’s crowd pleasing antic AND fabulous photo opportunity (see top photo)!

Cane Toad racing isn’t just about the race. Getting the venemous villains to the starting barrel is a lengthy process, starting with the auction. Auction?

With an cry of ‘C’mon, you tight-a**ed tourists’ (and perhaps a nod to a previous profession?), Thommo launched the crowd into a bidding frenzy. Where strangely, purchasing your very own noxious nuisance for an average of $AUD50 seemed not just normal, but highly desirable! Having thus raised over $AUD500 for the Kununurra Wildlife Rescue, the poisonous predators were ready to ‘line up’.

Because the concept of racing doesn’t come naturally to untrained Cane Toads, a few modifications to the standard racing format are required. There’s no point setting Start and Finish lines, gates or racing lanes; and a starting pistol would be about as useful as a sandbox in the desert.

For Cane Toad racing, the ‘track’ becomes a well-defined circle and the ‘starting gate’ a bucket or barrel in its centre, into which the abject amphibians are placed. This wasn’t as simple as it sounds.

As the crowd gathered around the ‘track’, Thommo insisted each new owner personally place his or her toad in the barrel by hand. But as the Cane Toad has taken nearly 77 years to reach Kununurra from its first release in Far North Queensland, the art of toad-wrangling is virtually unknown. Which placed the more squeamish at a disadvantage that Thommo was quick to exploit.

‘Give us a kiss and I’ll do it for you,’ he offered.

‘I’d rather kiss the toad,’ one feisty owner replied.

After seemingly endless rounds of dropped toads, escapees, posing for photos, toad-kissing and shrieks of revulsion, the toads were ready to race.

Almost.

With the owner of the first toad to reach the circle’s perimeter after the barrel was lifted (ie the ‘winner’) to receive a highly desirable prize (ie a Thommo’s Toad Races T-shirt and 6 bottles of wine cane toad juice), the stakes were high. So Thommo issued strict instructions that the crowd was not, under ANY circumstances, to interfere with the race outcome.

With a flourish, Thommo removed the barrel and revealed a clutch of 10 toads, blinking in the sunlight after their enforced rest in the dark.

Nothing happened.

Nothing happened some more.

Then, despite wild – and desperate – shouts of encouragement, nothing continued to happen.

The cunning cane toads weren’t playing.

Thommo entered the ring and made threatening noises. That did the trick! Suddenly, a freedom-seeking toad saw an opening in the crowd, took off like a rocket, leapt the barrier like a seasoned Olympic hurdler and disappeared into the crowd, who obligingly parted.  Its fearsome friends followed.

Thommo declared the race – and my virgin experience – over.

I hope it was as good for you as it was for me!

Want more information?

• Cane Toads and Cane Toad World
• Fats Thommo
• Kununurra

The post I was a Cane Toad Race Virgin! Kununurra, Western Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.

A good morning in Kununurra starts really early.  That’s because this town in the East Kimberley is just west of the Northern Territory border and the Central Australia time zone.  Crossing the border into Western Australia means you gain 1½  hours so what was 7:30 am in the Northern Territory is now 6:00 am!

And the sun is well and truly up by then.

BUT … there’s no point fighting it because instead of setting around 6:30 pm, the sun disappears at 5:00 pm.  So rising at the crack of dawn is just a smart way of using all available daylight hours.  Or so they say!

We tested out the theory with magical sunrise visit to the small but impressive rock formations of Mirima National Park, only a few kilometres from our campsite on Lily Lagoon.

And darned if it didn’t start our Kununurra morning perfectly!

Here’s five good reasons why:

1.  There was no one else around!  Well … apart from the two manic joggers busy filming themselves running for Facebook.  If you’re one of the ‘lucky’ ones to have seen the footage, it’s my sad duty to inform you that it’s SO not spontaneous!

2.  The light was perfect for photography.  TOO perfect.  Maybe it’s time to accept that not EVERY photo I take is an oil painting, and start culling before my SD card fills up.  Again.

3.  There was a lot more wildlife about.

Sandstone shrike-thrush, Kestrel, White-quilled rock pigeon.  Oh, and what’s that snake-shaped shadow along the look-out ledge?  That would be a three metre snake, of course!

But it’s *only* a python …

See?

4.  Getting up this early meant the rest of the day was free.  And what better way to spend it than on a mango-cheesecake-and-mango-smoothie bender?!  Kununurra’s Ord River irrigation scheme means the area is an agricultural wonderland with WAY more than mangoes on offer …

In places like this!

5.  And the smug, superior, self-righteous glow you’ll wear after such a sublime start to the morning lasts all day!  Trust me!

Want MORE?

• Kununurra, Western Australia
• Kimberley Region, Western Australia
• Mirima National Park

The post Good morning from … Kununurra, Western Australia!! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.